style in progress 1/2024 – English Edition

95

THE FUTURE IS WIDE OPEN!

# 1/2024

YOU ALWAYS HAVE TO SEE WHAT’S NEXT. Renzo Braglia

ALPHATAURI.COM

SHOWROOMS MUNICH Karl-Weinmair-Str. 9 +49 89 12 59 69 550 DÜSSELDORF Kaiserswerther Str. 117 +49 211 655 88 230 hello@select-studio.com select-studio.com @selectstudio_agency

NEIL BARRE T T S TA N D S T U D I O ESSENTIEL ANT WERP MUNTHE N O R SE PRO J EC T S PA U L & S H A R K JOHN SMEDLEY M O N T ECO R E S T I N E G OYA ARENA STUDIO HERSKIND GIANNI CHIARINI ADD MIL ANO GES TUZ TO R A L & more

A Kiss from Kitz‘

S H O R T F I L M _ S TA R R I N G OT TAV I A N O B L I TC H

Milano, Via Montenapoleone 10 +39 (0)2 36507595 showroom.milano@montecore.it w w w.montecore.it

Cover Photo: Cassandra Grisendi

EDITORIAL

Partner of the Future Welcome to these lines.

The AI revolution has once again put it so clearly in the spotlight: will technology replace people? For fashion retail, the answer to this question must be a resounding no.

Threadneedle founder, keynote speaker and long-time manager Ann Berry (Stores are Like Live Concerts, from page 158) puts it this way: “Even though most people buy or stream music online, concerts are still so important because people want to immerse themselves in the artist’s performance. Similarly, a store needs to be more than a space where products are sold.” This applies equally to wholesale, where the transformation can also be wonderfully accompanied and mapped. Our interviewee for the Longview (“The Fragmentation of our Market is Crazy - and Essential”, from page 124), Renzo Braglia, wants to bring the fun back into shopping with his new Seamless Commerce business model and eliminate the bugs that are currently getting in the way of creativity: “Our industry has been trying to turn fashion into a form of commerce for a few years now, and it’s not working. We urgently need the fun back, especially in purchasing.”

Independent brands, as retailers are realizing more than ever, are not only the icing on the cake, but also the partners of the future. The top league of brands is not just saying goodbye to multi-brand retail with exclusionary distribution practices. “We should have the courage to break away from the brands that no longer want wholesale anyway,” says Kerstin Görling from Hayashi in Frankfurt in the salon discussion (from page 150).

An entire issue packed with the brands that see their present and future in fashion retail is what our editorial team can give you for the new season. 2024 won’t be a year for beginners - that’s already clear. Growth alone, as the deep fall of online hopefuls shows, no longer generates trust. Profitability and customer loyalty are the two new indicators.

Not so new, do you think? You’re right again!

Have an exciting season!

Your style in progress team

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CONTENT 010 EDITORIAL

Partner of the Future

022 RIGHT NOW 094 RIGHT NOW AGENCIES 140 WANT IT

FASHION 118 Noir’n’Bleu: Kaleidoscope of Combinations 119 AlphaTauri: Transformation 120 Seventy Venezia: Chic Italiano 121 Floris van Bommel: Casual and Smart 122 Sportalm: Key Pieces 123 Ecoalf: Eco Design & Circularity 134 Raffaello Rossi: Sporty Elegance 135 Sassenbach: Wearable Empowerment 136 Save the Duck: Off Into the Woods 137 Avant Toi: Colors From Nature 138 Keeling: Unadulterated Naturalness

LONGVIEW 124 “The Fragmentation of Our Market Is Crazy – and Essential”

139 Woodpecker: Loud and Funky

248 OUTSIDE THE BOX

Renzo Braglia explains a transformative distribution system

TRENDS & FORECASTS FOR UPCOMING SEASONS

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SERIOUSLY

SEXY UNDERWEAR.

mey.com

CONTENT

WHAT’S THE STORY 148 HORIZONS

150 “We Should Have the Confidence To

Detach Ourselves From Brands That No Longer Value Wholesale Anyway” A salon dialogue about prices beyond reason

170 40 Years of

Silent Luxury: Habsburg’s realignment

158 “The Physical Store Is Like a Live Concert”

172 About Perfect Timing: Antony Morato manifests his plans for Germany

Investor and brand developer Ann Berry outlines her theses on the future of retail

164 “The Niche Is Sufficiently Large” Austrian fashion pop art by Published by

166 Under­

stated Boldness: BLSSD assigns fashion a mission

174 A New Self-Confidence:

The Odder Side’s greatest asset

180 With Full Clarity: Paul & Shark’s realignment shows results 182 That’s New: Off-Grid and Claire Common 183 Zero-Party Data – what added value Arianee injects into the digital product passport 184 Creating Brands: Marcona3 as brand builder

186 “No One Rule Fits All” –

argues the Tomorrow Group

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CONTENT

188 TELL ME A

212 Future-Proof: just Dressler, without Eduard 214 “Lifetime Customers Are Gained at Trade Shows,” says Sofie Dolva of CIFF/Revolver 215 Outdoor Functionality in an Urban Look. Where Scandinavian Edition sees its niche 216 “Who Should We Grow For?” ask the Man/Woman Show creators 217 “We Are the Niche Within the Niche” – this is where knitwear manu­ facturer Seldom feels at home 218 Design & Quality With an Un­ mistakable Signature: the credo of Kennel & Schmenger 219 Milanese Style, German Manage­ ment: Traiano imbibes German virtues 220 Everything Is Right! 40WEFT lives and breathes trousers with passion

213

Europe in Focus – JNBY rolls out its brand

221 Sartorial Outerwear by Montecore deserves a second glance

190 This Is the Story…

All About How.

The fusion of technology and the individual in retail

222

200 Technical Power Tools – how technology drives sales

224 Upstream: Where Transformation in

202 AI Technology That Understands Customers: a promise by Frontnow

228 “Hospitality Is the New Key to Communities” – Daniel Steindorf and the No Rooms concept

204 rowth?

G

Via Community!: customers attract customers

208 Platform for New German Design: Neudeutsch at Pitti Uomo 209 “We Are Jumping In at the Deep End”: the global market leader treads new paths with Arena Studio

210 Strength for the Brand: Bugatti’s new dream team at the helm

Fashion Is Actually Unfolding

230 “Meeting the Community Where It Spends Its Time,” is the principle behind Ayms 236 Good Places, Good Vibes – how Warm-Me interprets destination retailing 237 “The Sun Shines Wherever We Are”: Luis Trenker sees vacationing as a driving force

238 Orange Mood Boost:

A Holland travelogue about the funny side of a crisis

239 The Church of Brand Worship: Mason Garments’ new structure 240 The Next (Big) Thing: the brand builders at Butcher of Blue 242 “They Just Get It”: Penn & Ink N.Y. relies on retail expertise 244 Real Women, Real Brands: womenswear from Holland 246 The Art of Retail – we love a store party

264 EDITOR’S LETTER Competence

264 ABOUT US

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W E R T E T R A G E N*

SALES DIRECTOR

Dieselstraße 9 | 92237 Sulzbach-Rosenberg Michael Betz: m.betz@hiltl.de

https://lookbook.hiltl.de/en

* W E A R YO U R VA LU E S

Luxury CIFF

COPENHAGEN

VISIT US

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO FLORENCE

CIFF x REVOLVER COPENHAGEN

Corduroy

CONNECT WITH US

SINCE 1922 IN MÖNCHENGLADBACH

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CG – Club of Gents

Just Mix It

“The styles are mixing,” says Ralf Klute, Division Head CG - Club of Gents, describing the new fall/winter collection, which was shot in Lisbon this year. Portuguese street art supports the suit company’s urban statement of offering the perfect look for every occasion. Stony nuances and natural color worlds of rust, olive tones, brown and light natural tones are offered in all-season qualities such as medium-weight flannel. The double-breasted coat worn open conveys a different kind of casualness, trousers are wider and jersey looks dominate the ready-to-wear collection.

Shirt styles with ready-towear outer fabrics or a rough style with a leather jacket in a bomber style offer creative freedom and individuality.

The Next Generation Project with GOTS-certified cotton items is complemented by GRS-certified jersey looks. www.cg.fashion

Concise stylistic signature: CG - Club of Gents.

CARL GROSS RELIES HEAVILY ON THE SUIT.

Carl Gross

Suit Hype

Lanzarote and its rocky landscape present the color worlds of the upcoming autumn/winter collection. In addition to the accent color bordeaux, menswear designer Carl Gross also brings brightness in all its forms: Harris Tweed in neutral colors, vanilla-beige tone-on-tone with double-breasted looks and pleats with a moderate width at the foot. The coat remains a strong theme - also as a cool substitute for a blazer, effortlessly styled with a turtleneck. Event wear is booming, whether as a tuxedo, in velvet or with paisley vests. www.carlgross.de

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“AI has the potential to fundamentally change our business.” Carlo Soglia, Managing Director & Partner GTA Moda Srl

GTA

“We Want to Tell Our Story”

You have taken a completely new approach to GTA’s communication strategy. Which one?

Carlo Soglia, CEO and Partner GTA Moda Srl: We have experimented with AI. We attach great importance to innovation in all areas, from product design to communication, and as a smaller company, we have the advantage of being able to experiment.

Our design team spent six months training AI engines on various servers. The designers worked with written instructions and articulated their visions again and again until an image fitting to their vision was created.

What does this vision look like?

It shows different worlds that reflect our interpretation of fashion and our personality as a brand and that tell our story. Our campaign for fall-winter 2023/24 is inspired by the 100th anniversary of Calvino’s book “Invisible Cities”. It takes readers on a fantastic journey to Venice, which is close to Padua, where GTA is based. Let the journey begin, is the slogan. Not only do you explore a newly created Venice, but you also discover the AI, a tremendously exciting and powerful tool! It’s a journey for all those who are fans of our pants collection, who share our enthusiasm for innovation and sophistication and who, like us, aspire to dream big. www.gtamoda.com www.paulsselection.com

Imaginary worlds: The campaign created with AI transports you to Venice.

Circolo 1901

More than Blazers

What are you excited about?

Gennaro Dargenio, CEO Circolo 1901: In my opinion, this collection marks the final step from ready-to-wear to a total look label. Both collections are well-rounded and coherent - the transformation is complete!

I’m looking forward to the feedback from retailers.

What exactly is different?

By taking over the production facilities, we have more scope for experimentation. Of course, jackets and blazers will remain our core, but we can do so much more - we love to dress men and women from head to toe.

The new company headquarters will also be officially opened in 2024, right?

Yes, finally. A milestone, now we finally feel like an international brand with this beautiful company building with a sea view in Barletta: 3,500 square meters divided into a main building and a cube, which is intended as a creative hub. In the main building are the offices and in the second one we will design collections, do shoots and presentations. I love it!

Circolo 1901: Step by step to the total look.

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Stetson Europe

Play it Forward!

“As the official headwear supplier to all franchise clubs within the European League of Football, we are taking the next step as a specialist in the sports merchandise market,” says Sebastian Boekholt, describing Stetson Europe’s strategy.

Stetson Europe has gained significant ground as a supplier to the European League of Football on the playing fields of the most successful US export sports in 2023. Sports sponsorship opens up a new field of opportunities for FWS, Stetson’s licensee in Europe also in terms of merchandising.

Photos: Kai Tiegelkamp, Henrick Vahlendieck

Sebastian, what is your feedback as an official sponsor in these areas of sport?

Sebastian Boekholt, Managing Director of FWS: Our partnership with the Cologne Sharks ice hockey team, which we entered into in 2015, has led to something that is now taking us

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in two directions: we see a lot of potential in the environment of American sports such as ice hockey and American football.

The decisive factor for us is to deliver content through our expertise and not just stand passively on the sidelines. At the same time, we see opportunities in the sports sector in terms of merchandising and equipment.

What are your expectations?

We are pursuing the vision of expanding our market beyond the fashion segment and firmly establishing ourselves in sports. The team cap is our sports-related connotation to the cowboy hat. If we continue to work consistently through the channels we have developed, we will not only gain a new sports lifestyle-oriented community for Stetson, but also open up new market segments as an outfitter for popular sports.

Are your partnerships not just an image campaign, but part of a sales strategy?

As a producer and retailer, it is important to us that we have a foot in the door with the sports market. In the long term, we want to be a competence partner for sports and clubs that are looking for caps with creativity and identification.

This is also where we see the differentiation from our competitors, because we convey personality through our designs and quality and offer fashion for the sports fan.

bugatti-fashion.com

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Duno

Even Stronger in Germany

Chris, tell us more about your POS events last season.

Chris Wang, CEO Duno: At the height of jacket season, we had events at Schnitzler in Münster and Lodenfrey in Munich.

The pop-ups and shop windows are part of our strategy to strengthen our retail presence in the D-A-CH region. We want to consolidate our image there and win new fans.

What role do the POS measures play in the overall concept?

The shop window at Lodenfrey was not only a sales element, but also an artistic platform. It allows us to present iconic pieces from the collections in an original way. Today, brands need to be experienced directly, and this is achieved with an inviting atmosphere in the store and the accompanying events.

What are your plans for the future?

Our goal is to make Duno accessible to a global audience. We are planning further openings and want to gain a foothold not only in existing markets, but also in new countries. The journey has only just begun.

The artistically designed shop window at Lodenfrey came at just the right time.

Innovation and sensuality: The SpaBra from Mey.

Mey

More Than a Bra

The SpaBra from Mey promises more than just support: with extra-soft cups and a Smart Foam shell that adapts perfectly to the breast through body heat, it promises a particularly comfortable and soft feel. The frame finish of the SpaBra ensures that the weight is distributed across the underbust instead of the shoulders. The bi-stretch power tulle, which is incorporated at the back for larger sizes, also provides optimum and flexible support. The bra doesn’t need to hide its appearance either and can even peek out from under the top thanks to the eyelash lace. www.mey.com

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|Poland, Baltics - LUXURY fashion spzoo - info@luxuryfashion.com.pl |Eastern Europe - DOUBLEYOU8 DI LORENZO TRAGNI - lorenzo@doubleyou8.it |France, UK, Ireland, Denmark, Norwey, Sweden, Finland - En_Mode_Projet sas - marie@enmodeprojet.com |Germany, Austria, Switzerland - SELECT STUDIO GMBH - hello@select-studio.com |Benelux - Fashion Club 70 - info@fashionclub70.be |Campania, Calabria - LOMBARDO RAPPRESENTANZE S.A.S.- lombardomoda@interfree.it |Puglia, Basilicata - ZITO ANTONIO - azito1970@gmail.com / showroomzeta@gmail.com |Muam - TOSTI - work.tosti@tlof.it |Triveneto - VERZI - info@studioverzi.it |USA - Icot Agency - 19.178.619.907 |Japan - Look Inc - 03-6439-1701|South Korea - VERZI - kis@modernworks.co.kr |Spain, Portugal, Andorra - Via new fashion - info@vianewfashion.com |Northen Italy & CIS - SHOWROOM Milano - showroom@add.it

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SUSANNE TIDE FRATER “DREAM OR NIGHTMARE? THE MERGING OF PEOPLE AND TECHNOLOGY WILL CONTINUE TO ACCELERATE!“

RETAIL-INNOVATOR

WHAT WILL SHAPE 2024?

Andreas Murkudis Owner Andreas Murkudis Stores

“We have to push for a completely new understanding of the value of clothing. There are simply too many goods on the market. Mass consumption and mass production contradict any idea of sustainability.”

JULIA BELIAEVA “TRUTH MUST BE THE MAIN TREND!”

ARTIST

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Formal or casual: The highperformance chinos adapt to your needs.

Passion, self-confidence and a touch of boldness: RRD Women’s Collection.

RRD

Innovative Elegance

Hybrid for every season: Jackets in a stretchy strato fabric with removable down lining.

Italian outerwear specialist RRD has reorganized their distribution in Germany, Austria and Switzerland with the Düsseldorf agency Paul’s Selection. There is a lot of evolution in the collection. The women’s line reflects the dynamic life of the modern woman. Refined aesthetics and progressive design define the perfect synthesis of style and functionality. Thermo-welded seams, waterproof membranes, polyurethane-coated zippers and feather padding demonstrate RRD’s typical commitment to technical perfection without compromise. From travel blouses to dresses in a crease-resistant fabric, each piece is designed to blend sporty elegance and practicality into the dynamic rhythm of everyday life. Just like the soft winter chino, which is all about freedom of movement with its regular fit. Made from recycled Surflex stretch material with a super matt effect, this style is not only breathable but also extremely durable, as it is based on the latest material technology from water sports. The material is also used for outerwear, dresses, T-shirts and sweatshirts.

The outer material of the Terzilio Capsule is made from ultra-fine stretch wool and combines tailoring and traditional surface structures with the latest, innovative floating shield technology. Here too, a 90/10 duck down filling provides excellent thermal insulation and extreme lightness, while the taped seams and breathable inner membrane ensure wind- and waterproofness. More than ever, RRD skillfully combines sporty shapes, colors and materials with Italian style and design, always with unmistakable originality. www.robertoriccidesigns.com Sartorial techniques are applied to modern materials in the Terzilio capsule.

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Wakayama, Japan

Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734

Düsseldorf: SHOES Düsseldorf, München: Supreme, Essenz. | Mehr als 100 Modelle auf Lager, kostenloser Versand.

Customer Service (deutschsprachig): +31 13 51 36 930, vertrieb@florisvanbommel.com

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RIGOROUS

Sustainability goes fashion: MIOMOJO, a vegan, B Corp-certified bag label from Bergamo, is new to SchulzAco. “I was very impressed by the fashionable Eva Bag, a collaboration with Pinko last season,” says agency owner Michael Schulz. The bags cost 120 to 300 Euros wholesale, calculated at 2.8. www.miomojo.it

Ecoalf Wellness

Made from apple, cactus, rice or wood: Vegan, cruelty-free bags from Miomojo.

TRAVEL BAGS

In addition to sunglasses and prescription glasses at retail prices of 140 to 220 Euros, AY STUDIOS now also offers travel bags. From toiletry bags to weekenders, there is a harmonious selection, with prices ranging from 55 to 220 Euros. Lagom Fashion Agency is responsible for the distribution in Germany, in Switzerland there is a cooperation with Agentur Eins Zwei Zwei Eins by Severin Steiner. @jamesay_com

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REFILL AND REDUCE

The Spanish eco-label is launching a vegan wellness line with soap, shampoo, skincare, sunscreen, deodorant and lip balm, all of whose aluminum packaging is refillable or 100% recyclable. This saves CO2, crude oil and water in the production of the packaging and avoids plastic waste. @ecoalf

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Pin 1876

Priority: Sustainability

At Pin 1876, the focus remains on research and improving production processes, particularly in the area of energy saving and the use of renewable energy sources such as solar and hydroelectric power. The focus is always on sustainability, both economically and socially. Botto Giuseppe e Figli is also intensifying its collaboration with sustainable farms in Australia, India, China and Uruguay as partner for raw materials that pay attention to animal welfare and environmental protection. In addition, all these products and processes are certified: RWS, GRS, Cradle to Cradle, ZDHC, Inditex, Higg Index, to name a few. www.pin1876.com

THE CASHMERE SCARVES FROM PIN 1876 ARE PARTICULARLY SOFT AND SUSTAINABLE.

New coolness: The Bloom collection makes statements in a fashionably reduced and monochrome style.

Bloom

Unique Pieces

Future meets tradition: in the Bloom collection, chunky knitwear made from baby alpaca in black and off-white makes a statement. The pieces are tailored oversized and embroidered in the respective contrasting color, for example in the form of a bar or QR code. With pure cashmere and cashmere blends, the focus is also on feel-good qualities - for sweaters and cardigans that are fashionably reduced and monochrome in color. Three-dimensional cable patterns are once again emphasized with hand embroidery in a contrasting color and large floral patterns are shown in an abstract way, for example in black with embroidery in off-white or vice versa. There is also a lot of slim-fit knitwear, which demonstrates the collection’s expertise in fitting.

The dresses and blouses from Bloom also follow the new simplicity, as does a small range with five new blouse models made of stretch silk, which are color-coordinated with the cashmere knits. www.bloom-fashion.de

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Oflab

The Best of Two Worlds

As a successful retailer, you have launched your own collection. What was the idea behind it?

Frauke Ortner, founder of Oflab: Oflab is a small collection made from a technical, lightweight yet dimensionally stable jersey that I have loved for a long time because it is super soft, easy to take care of and color-fast.

I myself feel most comfortable in sportswear and prefer to wear it all day long. The results are 16 pieces including shirts, hoodies, blazers, trousers, dresses and skirts that combine fashion with the comfort of sportswear.

How are you launching the collection?

Via the fashion agency Jörg Nürnberger, at retail prices between 200 and 400 Euros and a cost estimate of 2.8.

The retail launch is planned for July, but Oflab is meant to be relevant all year round and is therefore excluded from sales. This way, all sides benefit. Now I’m super excited about the launch! @Oflab-Label Convinced by her Oflab collection: Frauke Ortner.

Each piece has a zippered pocket for keys and a cell phone.

Nike

Give It To B.I.L.L.!

Taking repair retail to the next level: the Bot Initiated Longevity Lab at Nike Town London is a robot-assisted system for repairing and cleaning sneakers. B.I.L.L. is designed to extend the life of Nike products in the spirit of the circular economy. The system automatically creates a three-dimensional model of the respective shoe and shows the areas to be repaired. The customer can then select the patches to be used for the repair. www.nike.com

It takes B.I.L.L 45 minutes to repair a sneaker. Store employees manually add a new inner lining and laces. Done.

08/15 Concept

“Lots of Fabric Creates a Sense of Wellbeing”

You have taken over 08/15 Concept in Döbling (Vienna).

Alexandra Bogner, owner: I’ve been running the neighboring Stadtkleid for several years, but I’m also an interior designer. When the owner retired, we quickly came to an agreement.

What’s new?

We replaced the 1990s lighting with LED spotlights. The parquet floor has been freshly sanded and varnished, as have the shelves. I wanted everything tone in tone. Ceilings, walls and even the radiators were all matched to each other. In the changing rooms, metal was replaced with velvet fabrics, a theme that was also picked up for the sales desk and the rotating shelves for displaying shoes.

Were there any particular challenges?

In addition to the color coordination, of course the tight schedule.

We managed everything in three weeks. In the end, family and friends even helped us paint and stock the goods. www.0815concept.com, @0815_concept

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With the relaunch, the lovingly curated selection at 08/15 Concept shines in new splendor.

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Hiltl Hosenmanufaktur

Wearing Values On a scale of one to 100: Where does Hiltl stand with its repositioning?

Michael Betz, International Sales Hiltl: We are currently at 70. We have invested heavily in sharpening our brand statement “HILTL - wearing values” and have implemented this consistently across all advertising measures, from a revision of our visual language to the design of our online appearance. What lies ahead of us is to anchor this more firmly with buyers and retailers and to communicate it to end consumers.

What is your response to the gloomy economic climate and inflation?

Reflecting on our unique selling points, our outstanding quality, fit and workmanship details. The high number of regular customers who recognize that they enjoy wearing

our pants through different economic cycles confirms this.

What ideas and offers does Hiltl use to move forward?

With a clear product range policy consisting of NOS/SNOS and fashion items, we want to offer retailers a framework for bringing the perfect mix of fashion and replenishable, tried-and-tested goods to the market. We are sharpening our NOS range and upgrading the SNOS items. This enables retailers to generate strong sales even in red price and weather-related difficult sales phases.

Partnerships with transparent communication, honesty and mutual respect are needed. Do you think these are sufficiently present on all sides?

We need to give partnerships a new form, as the challenges of value creation affect us all. Unfortunately, communication at eye level is not yet a given. Of course, the challenges are always most present in your own company. Here it is particularly difficult for brands to find a balance and pass on pre-production price increases without giving up important price points. The pressure comes not only from the price sensitivity of retailers, but also from a certain lack of understanding among weaving mills and ingredient suppliers. For the future, it is important to work with partners on the retail and fashion side on concepts that distribute the risk evenly instead of bundling it at individual levels.

Michael Betz, International Sales at Hiltl Hosenmanufaktur.

New from South Tyrol: Alpe Piano.

Alpe Piano

Alpine Meets Fashion

Alpe Piano is the new outerwear capsule from Glücklich Studio. The vision: to design jackets differently through a synergy of natural fabrics and sophisticated design.

The products are stylish and breathable, comfortable and protect against wind, rain and snow. The Dolomites are the source of inspiration. “The fabrics we have selected for our collection come from alpine regions.

Original loden fabrics, felted materials and special knitting styles, as have been worn in the Alps for generations, form the basic framework,” explains Christopher Steiner from Glücklich Studio. Pitti Uomo marks the launch of the collection. Alpe Piano is also represented at SALT 01 and Style Munich. www.alpepiano.com

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JETZT RIGHT NOW

Around 60 exhibitors, including a number of newcomers, will be taking over Gusswerk in Salzburg on two dates.

Salt Order Days

Salzburg Should Inspire!

Salt is entering its fourth season full of optimism. Hubert Stolzlechner is already looking forward to it: “The mixture of inspiration, business and close personal contacts is our recipe for success. We are a close-knit community that is fortunately growing all the time.” Despite the expansion of the exhibition space, the first event on January 23 and 24 is already fully booked and will welcome exciting international newcomers.

For example, Alpe Piano, the new brand by Christoph Steiner, Minibag from Switzerland and the wonderful accessories and leather goods from Alexandre Mareuil from France.

Hubert Stolzlechner is particularly pleased that two important anchor brands of Salt are using the date for high-quality events. Habsburg will be hosting an exclusive five o’clock tea at Schloss Leopoldskron on January 22. Luis Trenker will be hosting an atmospheric fashion show in a specially erected tent on the Gußwerk grounds on the evening of January 23. Stolzlechner: “This is exactly the development I had hoped for. Salzburg and Salt should inspire the industry!”

SALT Order Days Salzburg, Gusswerk SALT 01: January 23 – 24, 2024 / SALT 02: February 23 - 25, 2024

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Luis Trenker’s fashion show will be one of the highlights of Salt in January.

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Lodenfrey Menswear

Renewal LODENFREY MENSWEAR COMBINES TRADITION AND MODERNITY.

Lodenfrey is traditionally associated with traditional dress, yet the brand claims to be modern. Is this justified?

Leonard von Pfister, Managing Director of Lodenfrey Menswear: Yes, especially as traditional clothing and modernity are not mutually exclusive. We make both traditional dress and fashion with which we also want to inspire young people.

We create a timeless product born from tradition and give it a younger face.

Thanks to which innovations?

Wool remains the most important material, supplemented with technical materials. We reinterpret the coat as an extra-long loden coat, an open-edged short coat or a reinterpreted duffle coat, always focusing on the perfect fit.

Made in Europe is also your strength.

Yes, thanks to our own factories in Romania, we have an excellent team! Since the major disruptions caused by the pandemic, wars and supply chain problems, we have been trying to change the wage structure again so that local seamstresses and tailors benefit. Our price jumps in the last season are exclusively due to wage increases in production. The above-average demands we place on our product are reflected in the price. In order to do justice to this, revenue must also be generated where the quality originates: In production. www.lodenfrey.eu

Fair production is important to him: Leonard von Pfister.

Cambio

Pure Silhouette

Markus Schreiber continues the Cambio success story in close dialog with retailers.

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What influences are inspiring the fall/ winter collection?

Markus Schreiber, Managing Director of Cambio: The look is becoming more dressed up and masculine. The wide silhouettes in checks and stripes are getting new details that break up the classic look with sporty elements. The glam factor is shown through cool jacquards and jersey.

What trends do you see?

A-line and flared remain important!

Wool and wool optics are cool and new.

The dressed look is given a casual look with a relaxed fit and new leg finishes.

Double pleats with a slightly tapered leg are becoming important. Colors are becoming calmer, accentuated by shades of purple and red.

How will the Cambio success story be further solidified?

It is important that trends follow each other and provide new buying impulses.

We create success together with our customers. We have top sellers in stock with the aim of not being a basic supplier, but offering a good mix with enough new themes. www.cambio.de

SUSTAINABLE LIVING since 1683

www.meindl-fashion.de

authentic luxury

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WITH THE CAPSULE SELEZIONE, DANIELE FIESOLI IS CREATING A NEW LUXURY RANGE.

Daniele Fiesoli

Selezione: The New Luxury Capsule Daniele, what’s new?

Daniele Fiesoli, founder and CEO of Daniele Fiesoli: “We are presenting our Capsule Selezione for the first time at Pitti.

We’ve been wanting to expand it for a long time, and now the time has come: Styles made from the finest cashmere, yak, alpaca and camel hair - soft, comfortable, luxurious, beautiful.

An upgrade?

Yes, we want to gain a foothold in the premium segment with this upscale version of our main collection. Luxury is a statement, not a trend. And what could be more luxurious than high-quality cashmere made in Italy?

What makes the capsule special, apart from the materials?

The design is timeless, elegant and yet suitable for everyday wear. Intricate knitting techniques make each piece a jewel of Italian craftsmanship. Everything, from production to materials, is done within 50 kilometers of our headquarters, true masterpieces of Italian craftsmanship in cashmere cardato (carded), cashmere pettinato (combed), etc.

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PITTI UOMO Florence January 09 - 12, 2024 Fantastic Classic Pavilion PADIGLIONE CENTRALE - PIANO TERRA Booth B/2-4, Area Libera

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MAYOURI SENGCHANH Founder and CEO Exalis GmbH

“2024+ will mean a great interface shift between the real and the e-reality.”

LISI PREM Tech Influencer and Trendscout

“Digital product passports, virtual try-ons in e-commerce and in-store, as well as generative AI along the entire value chain will be both major and exciting challenges!”

MARCO GÖTZ “CAN WE CURATE AI?”

FOUNDER DRYKORN

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WHAT WILL SHAPE 2024?

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Bring color into your life!

Color is the hallmark of shoe label PANCHIC from Italy.

Since its foundation in 2009, owner Leonardo Dal Bello has made it a priority to produce shoes with a certain extra kick.

There is always something special on show for men, women and children: rough but stylish, practical but cool functionality and style go hand in hand. Of course, made in Italy. www.panchic.com

STRO MOD NG ER CON VINC N ING

Love

FITS EVERYONE

Expertise since the 1970s: BERWICH is the in-house brand of Apulian trouser specialist I.CO.MAN 2000 SRL. Competence in the fit is no coincidence, but a matter of course.

Berwich pants are particularly suitable for traveling: hard-wearing, always usable and 100% made in Italy. www.berwich.com

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The first few seconds in the showroom are crucial: will it be love? Clearly yes in the case of Liviana Conti, a collection that inspires with its coolness and on top of that, comes across as very high quality - even at first glance, even before the first touch. Retailers such as Sois Blessed in Munich, Papenbreer in Erfurt and Jimmy + Jo in Düsseldorf are already convinced. www.livianaconti.it

Trouser expertise from Apulia: Berwich.

9 -12 JANUARY PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO FLORENCE - PADIGLIONE CAVANIGLIA STAND 17 WWW.BOBCOMPANY.IT

AGENCY FOR AUSTRIA & GERMANY: DIE HINTERHOFAGENTUR WWW.DIEHINTERHOFAGENTUR.DE

AGENCY FOR SWITZERLAND: PREMIUM FASHION MODEAGENTUR WWW.PREMIUM-FASHION-CH WW

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Minimalism paired with function: Paltò.

Paltò

Promising

More performance. Originally the Italian brand stood for sartorially crafted coats, today it has evolved into contemporary sportswear. The core competence remains, with clean styles that do not lack performance.

In addition to deconstructed, unlined coats and jackets for men and women, there are, for example, 3-in-1 models: made of water-repellent wool on the outside, combined with a lightweight down jacket that like the wool coat, can be worn on its own.

“We expect a lot from this, because the level of fashion and function are right,” says Samuel Schatten from First Floor Agency, which is responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. www.palto.it

Kiefermann

Excellent Performance

The high-end label Kiefermann stands for smart fashion, is modern in its cuts and characterized by the finest quality. Alexandra Kiefermann, owner of Iheart and Kiefermann, now wants to strengthen the brand’s potential and is celebrating its premiere at Pitti Uomo with menswear and womenswear. The soft launch of womenswear was already in summer 2023, with extremely positive feedback from retailers. A sustainable way of working rounds off the label’s DNA. In Austria, it is represented

by Knaus oder Knaus and in Germany, Kiefermann Women is distributed by Adventure Fashion Agency. www.kiefermann.com

Protection, new tailoring and lots of wool are the themes at IQ Studio.

IQ Studio

Alexandra Kiefermann focuses on internationalization.

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Focus!

“Production in Europe is becoming more important to us and the collection is becoming more high-quality,” says Carsten Scheer, founder of IQ Studio. “At the same time, we are ensuring that prices remain stable and are also making a statement with selective distribution.”

The IQ Studio collection is recognizably more focused. Details and accessories remain important, but the looks are more minimalist and uncluttered.

Upcoming: wool for indoors and outdoors, for example for cabans and shorter jackets made from doubleface. “Our aim is to introduce outerwear in a more targeted and needs-based way,” says Carsten Scheer.

The collection’s key pieces, such as lambskin capsule styles, shorter icon puffer coats, parkas and vests, will also be highlighted more.

Parkas and bombers with a water column and taped seams promise protection, while blazers as double-breasted jackets or cropped jackets with wider-cut pants reflect new tailoring. www.iq.studio

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Add constantly reinterprets its core values in exciting new ways.

Add

Comfort & Style

A series of technical innovations accompanies Italian outerwear brand Add into the new season: the use of Primaloft makes a quantum leap in functionality possible, while water-repellent outer fabrics are perfect for changeable weather. In its leisurewear, Add continues to rely on the lightweight qualities for which the brand is known. They are perfect for wearing the jackets at any time of year. “We envision that you can buy Add very individually tailored to your own collection,” says Select Studio owner Bernard Waage, whose agency in Germany is responsible for the strategic expansion of sales.

Add also seamlessly continues their high standards of design and quality in their children’s collection: with sophisticated technology and high-tech materials just like for adults, Add Kids stands for long-lasting quality with maximum freedom of movement. www.add.it

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ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

WWW.BRAMA-GROUP.COM

INFO@BRAMA-GROUP.COM

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Tom Ripley, that’s German management and Italian knitting expertise in price ranges that make hearts and minds happy.

Tom Ripley

The Perfect Gentleman

Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and James Dean shaped the Golden Fifties and influenced Tom Ripley’s collections with their style. It is this special mixture of gentleman, preppy and a pinch of rebellion, always spiced up with a little Italianità and American lifestyle, that fascinates.

For autumn/winter, nostalgic moments meet modern ones in the color concept - from warm earth tones to rich barolo, olive, navy blue and black. Stylistically, Tom Ripley focuses on brand-related motifs that have been worked in various styles and techniques. The focus is on innovative knitwear with a variety of qualities: from lightweight cotton crêpe to cozy maco cotton, chenille and bouclé. The stereo system knitting technique enables exclusive ribbed looks and geometric designs.

The collection is given a modern touch with a pullover with rolled open hems and a quarter-zip hoodie. Structured long-sleeved knitted

Hetregó

Innovation and tradition

The Italian down specialist, founded in 1916 by Luigi Minardi, is making a new start on the market in Germany and Austria with the Munich-based Hinterhofagentur.

The Minardi Group, which is behind Hetregó, has specialized in jacket production since the 1990s. The company’s own brand was founded in 2005. The women’s and men’s collection for fall/winter 2024 features many new combinations of outer fabrics such as soft flannel from Vitale Barberi, patterned wool or the finest cashmere combined with a matte nylon jacquard.

Processing techniques, cuts and lines have been refined and some models are even more fashionable and dynamic for sporty customers. In addition to the traditional techno-stretch and the characteristic three-layer construction of the jackets, there are, for example, wool patterns paired with neoprene-like materials. The silhouettes range from regular to relaxed fits and oversized in short, medium and long versions. www.hetrego.com

HETREGÓ STANDS FOR AN URBAN LOOK WITH OUTSTANDING QUALITIES. 052 style in progress

polo shirts, turtleneck sweaters and cardigans embody the timeless retro style, while the knitted jacket with shawl collar and zipper adds fashionable sophistication. The sweater with a vertical jacquard pattern and three-dimensional intarsia becomes a statement piece - an abstract work of art. Two sweaters made from recycled cashmere show how sustainability and creativity can go hand in hand. The innovative airbrush technique gives each piece uniqueness, fitting the recycled cashmere fiber. Sustainability is also a top priority for the cardigan made from hybrid materials: thermal insulation is provided by sustainable fibers made from recycled PET bottles by Thermore. The classic letterman jacket is being reinterpreted for 2024 with a chenille and Trenker corduroy character. The casual retro trend of terrycloth is presented in a varsity sweatshirt made from soft cotton terrycloth in a college style.

Contrasting cuffs create a sporty, relaxed look. www.tom-ripley.com

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ERE CASHM FROM DUNO

Cashmere Meets Performance

Made from high-quality fabrics produced in Italy, in their capsule Attic DUNO combines luxurious cashmere with the finest wool. The surface is water-repellent thanks to a special treatment, while an environmentally friendly, hydrophilic membrane on the reverse of the fabric absorbs moisture and ensures that it is windproof.

NO LIMITS

Ralf Klute, Division Head of CG – Club of Gents: “The

young generation doesn’t just think gender-neutral.

Their shopping behavior has also changed.

There are no stylistic restrictions. The look is individual. On the go in the morning with a loose fit look, in the evening it’s ‘show your body’ and everything fits tightly.”

BRITITALIAN

In the 1970s, England was the standard for all things footwear, and even Italian brands called themselves very British. Green George has successfully carried this heritage into the future; owner Andrea Granatelli loves reinterpretations of the classic double monks, tassel loafers and Chelsea boots. www.greengeorge.it

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Classic with an Italian twist: Green George.

Showroom: Schirmerstraße 61 D – 40211 Düsseldorf Fon 0049 1 72 975 45 72 rebellisland.com

woodpeckercoats.com

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Optimism through bright, warm colors are characteristic of TheHolyGoat.

TheHolyGoat

As Light as a Cloud

Bright, expressive colors, lots of craftspersonship. Cashmere knitwear from TheHolyGoat is a unique collector’s item for which traditional manufacturing techniques are reinterpreted. The new fall/winter collection features many hand-knitted sweaters, cardigans and vests. “A special highlight for the upcoming collection? A new cashmere bouclé yarn, as unbelievably soft and light as a cloud,” enthuses owner Simone Goschler. Thick plaits, hand-crocheted sweaters and unusual embroidery on rhombs give the collection a very personal touch. “Absolutely new this season are colorful woven fringed jackets and vests; they are simply adorable!”

TheHolyGoat shows playful designs that are fun, such as the new Big Blue & Deep Forest plaids, which tell whole stories with hand embroidery. “We want to enchant: dive into the depths of the sea, snorkel with seahorses and puffer fish or go for a walk in an enchanted fairytale forest.”

Based on the conviction that everything is interconnected, the Munich-based label sources its yarn exclusively from Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia and produces its collections in a family business in Kathmandu. “Good working conditions and medical care for our employees are very important to us. We also look for nature and animal welfare projects to support every year,” says Simone Goschler.

Two/Do

“There is a yawning black hole between designer brands and fast fashion, because many of the independent brands that fill it are, in our eyes, very short-term phenomena and never immune to becoming obsolete again with the next swipe. Especially as their regular prices have also taken off, which is increasingly fueling the sale phenomenon. We are experiencing complete anarchy when it comes to discounts and this is eroding consumer confidence more and more. You can also see this in the success of fast fashion’s collaborations with designers - many consumers are convinced that this is the price that is actually justified.”

Valentina Taglioli and Caterina Venturini, Two/Do

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LaMilanesa

Not Only Crochet

Cinzia, can we look forward to new crochet bags for winter 2024?

Cinzia, designer at LaMilanesa: There will of course be crochet models again next season and we are actually presenting a new pattern. This time we have collaborated with a group of women from Turkey and are therefore showing completely new models. It was important for us to support crocheters from the regions affected by the earthquake this time. However, I would like to emphasize that LaMilanesa is not only about crochet and we have recently introduced many new products.

What are these new products?

For example, our line made from recycled nylon and polyurethane fabrics, which consists of very lightweight models. With climate change and the shifting seasons, it was important to create styles for winter that combine lightness and functionality. I was inspired by a work of art at a vernissage: the painting was made of balls, so I applied balls to the bags. My favorite series is definitely Toys, very playful: Differently sized bags with plush toys or dolls attached - a bit of fun is a must.

What inspires you in general?

This fall/winter collection is called Rumore (noise) and reflects my emotional state during the creation process. I don’t want to be quiet and civilized anymore. It’s time for us women to make noise, to express what we want and what we are, to make it clear: “I’m here!” and also show the other side, the darker, deeper side. Each bag bears the first name of an Italian femicide victim, a woman who no longer has a voice.

What do you expect from German-speaking countries?

That we continue to grow sustainably. That retailers understand my creations and that end consumers love them. They are very popular in Italy, and I would also like to achieve this status in German-speaking countries because it is one of our most important markets.

Models from the Rumore collection.

CINZIA IS A VERY CREATIVE DESIGNER WHO PLAYS WITH MATERIALS, SHAPES AND COLORS.

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CANADIANCLASSICS.IT

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Fil Noir

Supersoft

Fil Noir focuses on consistency, with shirts made from brushed flannel fabrics with a careful finish, particularly soft as they are pre-washed and tumbled, at retail prices ranging from 99.90 to 119 Euros - as hidden button downs and with a stand-up collar, plain, chequered or with a print. The Donna collection also features an extensive range of flannels at retail prices from 129 to 149 Euros. For men, striped and plain versions are vintage-inspired, with embroidery, decorative stitching and raw cotton trims. New: semi-city shirts made from high-quality fabrics and with mother-of-pearl buttons at 99.90 Euros retail price. Overshirts in many variations round off the collection. www.fil-noir.com

Cool shirts, made in Europe: Fil Noir Donna and Fil Noir Uomo.

Trine Tuxen

Handmade

The Scandinavian roots are unmistakable.

As a former dancer with a passion for creativity, Trine Tuxen founded her own jewelry label in 2012. The collection is now available in two of her own stores in her hometown of Copenhagen, while collaborations with fellow designers such as Wood Wood are constantly bringing the name to the fore. Important retailers in Germany include stores such as Mili in Hamburg, the Aest Store in Düsseldorf, La Bottega in Weinheim and Marandino in Karlsruhe. Tina Ferragamo Loch and Oliver Brehmer from The VII Agency are responsible for sales here. The pieces are made from sterling silver or 14-carat gold-plated silver. trinetuxenjewelry.com

Open Showrooms in Berlin

Stronger Together

“Everyone around one table” was the motto of Damir Prins-Juric, owner of the Prins-Juric agency. Around 30 agencies responded to the call and the subsequent initiative to jointly invite customers from Berlin and the East to the capital on a weekend. “First of all, just to get information, because we all realize that buyers lack a place for general orientation.” All showroom doors will be open at three locations in Kleinmachnow and places like the Evelin Brandt House in Berlin on January 20 and 21, with a total of around 200 brands on display in brand showrooms and agencies. Damir Prins-Juric: “It is very important to us that this is not a positioning against anyone, not against Düsseldorf, not against Munich. It is an invitation to gain an overview and then work all the more strategically.”

Berlin, various locations, information via Prins-Juric agency, info@prins-juric.com or House of Brands agency, mark.seebach@t-online.de

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Bongusta

Euphoric

“Wow, what’s that!” exclaims many a person who sees the Bongusta home and living collection. For example, rugs in the shape of tigers or with floral motifs, terrycloth ponchos, bags, pants and over-sized shirts in harmonious colors. Another special feature is the quality of the terry cloth, which becomes even softer after washing. The Danish company behind Bongusta was founded two years ago and manufactures exclusively in certified factories in India - most of it by hand using traditional methods. This includes the Chindi rugs, knotted from leftover materials used in the fashion industry. We like! www.bongusta.dk Bongusta is a new member at First Floor Agency, which distributes the label in Germany and Austria.

Vertrieb: MODEist GmbH · +49 151 54 73 28 67 · timothy@vahoferer.de · www.modeist.com ·

modeist_

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ANITA TILLMANN “IT’S PEOPLE INSTEAD OF BRAND LOGOS!” SERIAL ENTREPRENEUR

WHAT WILL SHAPE 2024?

ANNA GRAF Innovation lead web3, Bertelsmann

“Emerging technologies combined with unique creative features will open up new worlds to express ourselves and connect with others!”

CAROLINA CASTIGLIONI FOUNDER PLAN-C

“DESPITE THE HYPE SURROUNDING AI IN FASHION, I AM CONVINCED THAT WE WILL SEE A STRONG COMEBACK OF CRAFTSMANSHIP, THE IMPORTANCE OF MATERIALS AND HUMAN CREATIVITY IN 2024.”

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#empoweryourself

DÜSSELDORFER FASHION DAYS 24. – 31.1.2024 Termine und Showrooms:

raffaello-rossi.de

AUTUMN WINTER 24

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Teresa

Facelift

“We’ve been at Erlerstrasse 10 since 2009 - a long period of time, so it was time for an update,” says Anna Strießnig, Managing Director. As the work was already of a high standard back then, small details were enough. “We switched completely to LEDs.” Customers are delighted with the redesigned changing rooms, which round off a completely new shopping experience. This includes furniture that invites customers to linger, says the Managing Director. “We have invested in interiors from BoConcept. That has modernized the look.” Regional companies took care of the refurbishment of the wood, which was sanded, oiled and color-matched directly on site. It created an even classier setting for a good mix of sophisticated brands such as Ulla Johnson, JW Anderson, Velvet, LaLa Berlin and many more. “We focus on setting ourselves apart from other stores.” A concept that is well-received by regular customers. And the future? There will be another refurbishment in 2024. This time in the Petera multi-brand store, which is also part of the company. www.petera.at

The BOB look is self-explanatory and stands out pleasantly from the everyday fashion mainstream.

Freshly renovated: Teresa in Innsbruck.

Canadian Coolness

Canadian

This is modern outerwear for the urban lifestyle. Inspired by the cool lifestyle of Canadian cities, Canadian lends credibility to its styles and materials. The versatility is based on careful material selection and ongoing research into cuts and fits. Meticulous attention to detail underlines the exclusivity. The jacket with a waterproof zipper made from stretch fabric and a warm synthetic filling offers perfect comfort for the city. The bomber impresses with its elastic fabric, waterproof zipper and refined details in neoprene and elastic knitted fabrics.

BOB

Metamorphosis

In the fall/winter 2024/25 collection, the idea of reversible garments is being rolled out to new product groups. In the past, the Italian label BOB has already introduced reversible trousers. This season’s collection is also more grown-up than in the past, without losing the typical BOB style. The designers continue to add playfulness with unusual fabric combinations, such as the mix of golden silk and wool fabrics or technical materials in combination with extra-soft teddy fleece. Details and color combinations are always very wearable and yet always stand out from the crowd. “The themes of casual jackets and cool coats are a given at BOB and are being explored in greater depth. Knitwear and the new outerwear introduced last winter also worked well in retail. The new, wider silhouette in pants is now becoming increasingly important,” explains Dominik Meuer from Hinterhofagentur, responsible for BOB sales in Germany and Austria. @bobcompanytheoriginal

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The jackets from Canadian - stylishly cool.

A highlight from the collection: The bomber with sophisticated details.

bugatti-fashion.com

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The Nim Standard

Focus and Expertise

CONVINCINGLY CASUAL: THE NIM DONNA.

A lot of research for the best materials: Claudio Parolini is the mastermind behind The Nim Standard.

Sven Brüggemann, Director Brand and Product.

Roy Robson

New Work

Roy Robson celebrates menswear!

What makes the new fall/winter collection unique?

Sven Brüggemann, Director Brand and Product: We are making three strong statements: Capture The Moment is our capsule for the clubbing theme, with New Work and dressed-up looks we are making a statement for the office. Over-shirts and blousons give the Separate Suit a new casualness and we are continuing our success story with Coloured Suits - simple styling, monochrome looks, from the

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suit to the merino fine knit to the coat and beanie in matching tones.

Which fabrics are strong?

We interpret New Work with a set consisting of a separate suit, over-shirt and bomber blouson made from a technical wool flannel with a slightly dressed-up touch.

The pop-up concept “new look new sound” was presented in fall 2023. Their conclusion?

We are over the moon. We brought the pop-up for our colored suit looks to 70 PoS and set the tone for menswear in specialist stores. We plan to do this again in fall 2024. www.royrobson.com

Do you agree with the theory that it’s denim’s moment right now?

Claudio Parolini, owner of The Nim Standard: Yes, which I can also see from the feedback we get from retailers about our collection. Denim is our focus and our expertise. We are currently pushing our bestsellers, and also fashionable styles such as wide-leg jeans and a casual regular fit for men. The Nim Donna offers even more fits to complement the tried-and-tested straight leg. Last season’s winner is a lightweight flared that is here to stay.

Other rising stars include chinos and corduroy pants.

Yes, the absolute favorite among women is our corduroy cargo. The warehouse was empty, which proves that quality and price are a great match! We continue to show off corduroy with new colors. Overall, we put a lot of research into new, comfortable materials, such as a cotton-modal mix, which we are bringing out in new five-pocket versions in even more colors. To be seen at Pitti, as well as at Niklas Rill Agency. www.thenimstandard.com www.niklasrill.de

mou-online.com

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CHARMING ALLURE

Anfin double y’s one side coat, b blue, on aby e beige.

Charming, stylish, timeless - this is how ANFINY describes its image of women. The highlight of the collection is the double coat: a reversible coat that is available in five different color combinations.

The color palette is divided into Timeless, Mid Season Color and Powerful. The labels’ success lies in its versatility and simultaneous minimalism, which suits women of all ages.

DENIM REDEFINED Selzione is the new luxury series from Daniele Fiesoli.

DESCREET

LUXURY

DANIELE FIESOLI now has a premium cashmere collection that leaves nothing to be desired: innovative design, top quality made in Italy and, of course, extreme comfort - Selezione is here. These pieces are designed for men and women who wear cashmere as a must and who love clean lines and simplicity.

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ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED X ISKO. The Godfather of Denim presented his latest collection in collaboration with Creative Room Italia by denim weaver Isko at the Denim PV in Milan. Inspired by the splendor of the 18th century, the pieces are made from Isko’s Ctrl+Z Fabric, which is made from recycled polyester, recycled cotton and regenerated cellulose fibers.@adrianogold, @iskodenim

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Annarr

“The Next Thing”

Brand manager Per Reinertsen uses the brand name to emphasize the reference to its Nordic origins and the inspiration drawn from the cityscape of Copenhagen. Annarr is the Bestseller Group’s first brand in the premium segment and is described as versatile clothing in a casual chic style. The layered look is the current style and the individual pieces are easy to combine for men who appreciate the feel of hard-wearing materials and who value durability. Four collections per year are planned, with contemporary basic elements and high quality standards in carefully crafted silhouettes. Annarr can be ordered from the Aurich agency in Düsseldorf. @annarr_official

Annarr shows tailoring inspired by street and workwear.

CHRISTINE LAMBRECHT AND ERWIN O. LICHER ARE LOOKING TO THE NEXT DECADE WITH CONFIDENCE.

The Box

Energy for the Chinese Retail Scene

Herrlicher

Two Successful Decades

20 glorious years of continuous growth, what’s next?

Erwin O. Licher, founder of Herrlicher: Timeless and contemporary. Our future will continue to be shaped by the balance between tradition and innovation. We will constantly keep an eye on the wishes and conditions of the market. At the same time, we will remain true to our attitude and our core values. In addition to our important Herrlicher heroines, we are now increasingly tapping into the great growth potential of the men’s collection. The new shoe line has also been well-received by customers.

What is the focus here?

Sustainability is a key principle. When opening up new markets, we want to proceed gently and quietly. Starting in 2024, a new merchandise management system will lead to greater efficiency and convenience for our customers. Our self-managed logistics will benefit in the form of an improved warehousing and shipping strategy. But above all: Deep down, we are all herrlicher [more glorious]. www.herrlicher.com

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The URF Group has anchored its goal in its name.

Urban Revitalization Force sounds exactly like it, which the Chinese company proved back in 2019 with the opening of the TX Huaihai Youth Energy Center in Shanghai. In the mall in the heart of Shanghai, they created a temple for youth culture based on the four pillars of digital, oasis, urban, and X as a symbol for collaboration. With The Box mall, which opened in Beijing in autumn 2023, they expanded their mission in the form of the first Urban Innovation Center for youth culture.

Covering an area of 103,544 square meters, the mall combines culture, art, community and consumption with storytelling - both analog and digital.

Impressive: The Box in Shanghai.

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Coordinated appearance: WomMan.

Rudolfo

Gaining Space

WomMan

Individuality Times Unisex

Dennis, your parents have been running their own fashion agencies for over 40 years. Has this know-how influenced you?

Dennis Griesinger, founder of WomMan: Definitely. I only produce items with a clear message. From sustainable production in Portugal to the packaging, I tailor everything to this premise.

I see the collection as a platform for creativity, as an expression of my aesthetic and lifestyle standards.

80% of the collection is unisex. A statement?

More like zeitgeist, there is only one explicit men’s and three women’s designs. The centerpiece is the art line, for which I have transferred my own painted works of art as digital prints onto the collection pieces. I would like to expand this, together with artists. A luxury line with high-end knitwear will be added in 2024.

The online store went live in November. What is your market entry strategy?

Step by step and with careful consideration. I’m currently approaching retailers and specifically looking for partners and image stores for presence and brand building.

Fashion has recently been presented where the building management used to reside. “At the new location, we can offer our customers 175 square meters of sales space, which is 50 percent more,” explains Rudolfo Managing Director Mario Himmelfreundpointner. “The proximity to our second mainstay, the Mos Mosh store, also ensures positive synergies.” With a spacious and airy concept, cool design elements alternate with warm natural wood elements in Rudolfo and draw the focus towards the product. Also new: In addition to men’s fashion, women’s fashion and home accessories are also on offer. www.rudolfo-herrenmode.at

Cool, clean, good prices: Tomorrow shows a flair for design and nature.

Sustainability plays a central role at Rudolfo in Wels, both in purchasing and in object design.

Tomorrow

The Rising Star? Jeans!

“Denim is next,” says Harry Heinrich, who has brought the Danish brand Tomorrow on board with Agentur Knallgrau. “That’s what was missing from our portfolio: a denim collection with a cleaner look and washes that are neither too distressed nor too basic.” The relaxed yet feminine styles, which reveal a special flair for design and attention to detail, are a perfect match. Tomorrow is certified with the EU Ecolabel and the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and is produced in Turkey. The retail price is around 200 Euros. www.tomorrow-denim.com

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Strong demand and an outstanding level of innovation at Messe Frankfurt’s textile trade fairs.

Techtextil & Texprocess

Sustainability as a Driver of Innovation

Nothing to be trashed: Knoblauch builds pop-up stores with recognition and reuse value.

Knoblauch

“Pop-Ups Are the Future”

Alexander Gehle has a very clear answer when you ask him as an expert in retail innovation and new concepts at Knoblauch am Bodensee: sustainable pop-up concepts are the future. The agency is currently implementing the fascination of such a flex concept - of here today, there tomorrow - for Dawn Denim. In line with Dawn’s brand philosophy, a maximally flexible, lightweight and, above all, sustainable plug-in system made from lightweight panels was used.

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The two leading trade fairs Techtextil and Texprocess are the hotspot for innovation, textile solutions and networking.

With over 1,600 exhibitors from around 50 countries, they reflect the exceptional level of innovation in the international textile industry. From the 23rd to the 26th of April 2024, the focus in Frankfurt am Main will be on research, exchange, inspiration and successful business deals. Texprocess showcases the latest machines, systems, processes and services for garment manufacturing. At Techtextil, manufacturers of natural fibers and materials as well as bio-based fibers and materials with sustainable functional properties for a wide range of applications will show what natural textiles can do. The sustainable performers can be found in the dedicated Nature Performance area in the Fibres & Yarns product segment. As a highlight for visitors, the renowned trend and future agency FranklinTill will also be presenting progressive material innovations in the special Future Materials presentation. In addition to familiar formats such as the Innovation Awards, visitors can look forward to a series of new special areas such as the Econogy Talks, the Recyclable Fibres & Yarns and Recyclable Materials areas, the Denim Hub and an Emerging Markets area. Sustainability and efficiency go hand in hand with the realignment of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network.

This includes not only the overarching title Econogy, which combines ecology and economy, but above all the standardization of sustainable evaluation criteria in the selection of resource-saving products, processes and exhibitors.

Econogy thus creates transparency and comparability across all trade fairs. In cooperation with independent external sustainability experts, the current state of recognized seals and certificates is included and the Sustainable Development Goals are also integrated into the checks. www. texpertise-network.com

| Benelux - Fashion Industry Filip De Snoeck +32 477 35 40 45 filip@fashionindustry.be | Croatia & Balkans - Style & Wings +385 98 928 4151 ana@styleandwings.hr | France - Sophie Tanguy +33 6 81 42 08 15 tanguy.sophie@gmail.com | Japan - Sann Freres s.a. www.sannfreres.co.jp | Portugal - Laura Santos laurafashion@sapo.pt | Russia & Csi - I.F.D. +39 02 66799342-50 ifd@ifd.it | Spain - GOLF, S.A. (+34) 933 633 633golfsa@golfsa.es | Swizzerland - Gilg Fashion +41 79 416 63 71 info@gilgfashion.ch | Usa & Canada - FoRi Showroom www.forishowroom.com

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Cruna

Doubling Up

Following its success in Sardinia, Cruna is opening its second monobrand store in Como. The brand from Vicenza presents their collections for men and women on two floors. Founded in 2013

by Alessandro Fasolo and Tommaso Pinotti, the label stands for high-quality products made in Italy with a short supply chain. The collections have a balanced structure and consist of pants, knitwear, jackets and outerwear. Successful collaborations result in interesting capsules such as Marzotto for Cruna. The next partnership is already in the pipeline - a denim collection is being worked on with Candiani. www.cruna.com

New dimensions of style at PNTS.

PNTS

Made for You

The new Cruna store in Como.

The premium modern casual label stands for nonchalance and modernity. Strong and bold women who wear every silhouette with pride have conquered trousers for themselves. PNTS defines four themes for fall/winter: urban twist with pleats and wide-leg versions in high-performance jersey, wool, nappa fake leather and clean premium denim. New must-haves for the season are urban styles such as parachuta and cargo styles. In addition to elegant track pants in sophisticated, slightly shiny surfaces, the decadence of the “Comfy with Style” silhouette explodes with 22_over the top by PNTS: Denim with a very low crotch and relaxed waist and 26_The loose, a loose O-shape version. www.wearepnts.com Store design with a clear statement down to a tee.

Peek & Cloppenburg

Store in Milan

How is P&C regaining the trust of the industry?

Neofit Vasilev, Director Sales Management Austria, Italy and CEE: We were able to increase our revenue in the stores and are continuing to expand in Austria, Italy and Eastern Europe. In addition to the fast pace in Eastern Europe, we are opening two new stores in Austria and with the one in Milan, our first in Italy. We are an important partner for many global brands in our markets, and we will expand this market position. We largely operate independently of our sister company in Düsseldorf, which completed the self-administration process in October.

How do you lead the premium department store with lots of items into the future?

Customer satisfaction, availability and ease of reading the product ranges are our top priorities. Our customers expect a shopping experience and a high level of fashion expertise.

Does online continue to be in focus?

The omni-channel strategy is a key path for growth, but is being adjusted - Vienna, for example, is driven more by physical expansion.

Neofit Vasilev focuses on the customer.

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Phone: +49(0)211 5425630 | www.acomode.de | kontakt@acomode.de facebook.com/acomodeagentur instagram.com/schulzacoagentur

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Brama Group/AG Jeans ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

A New Era

Starting with the fall/winter 2024 season, the Brama Group will take over distribution of the European collection of the iconic denim brand AG Jeans for the entire EU, the UK and the Middle East as a licensee. A distribution agreement has been signed for the US collection. Renzo Braglia, CEO and owner of Brama, is looking forward to an exciting new challenge: “AG Jeans has enormous potential. Our special structure, our many years of experience with high-quality denim brands and our close personal relationship with the belle étage of specialist retailers throughout Europe will enable us to tap into this potential.”

Founded in 2000 in Los Angeles by design legend Adriano Goldschmied and the congenial denim specialist Yul Ku, AG has developed into one of the leading premium jeans brands under Ku’s leadership. The future collaboration with Brama will now mark the beginning of a new era. www.agjeans.com, www.brama-group.com

WWW.BRAMA-GROUP.COM INFO@BRAMA-GROUP.COM

New dream team: Brama takes over AG Jeans for the entire European market.

A campaign for mental health in fashion.

Como Lifestyle

30 Years

International fashion in a town of 30,000 inhabitants between the Münsterland and East Westphalia - how does that work?

Silke Deinert, owner of Como Lifestyle: In the beginning, it was a constant process of feeling out how much I could follow my urge to offer colorful, high-quality and unconventional pieces. We are on the move and remain curious. There are highlights everywhere, you have to make the effort to seek them out.

How have your customers changed?

We are grateful that they are keen for change and trust us. Our success is based on our long-standing regular customers, and new customers who come to us by word of mouth.

What do you look forward to every season?

That I can put together my own selection and be inspired by what creative people have come up with.

It’s a privilege. Being a curator fills me with joy and gratitude. www.como-oelde.de

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Mental Health in Fashion

Change From Within

Oelde, where is that again?

Silke Deinert from Como Lifestyle has been answering this question with a great deal of fashion confidence for 30 years.

What is the aim of the campaign?

Florian Müller, initiator: To overcome the stigmatization of mental illness and to address the complex challenges of the fashion industry. The importance of the mental health of people working in the fashion industry should be emphasized.

As well as the harmful messages that the industry sometimes conveys to the public.

How are you raising awareness?

In partnership with Fashion Revolution, Fashion Changers and the Education Foundation, we bring pupils closer to the effects of our fashion consumption during project weeks, for example, or incorporate it into the curriculum at universities. We recently underlined the global relevance of the topic at a panel talk at Hong Kong Fashion Week. Lectures at universities in Taipei and Hong Kong attracted a lot of attention. A Shaded View on Fashion Film in Paris allowed us to introduce a category to raise awareness among fashion professionals. www.mentalhealthinfashion.com

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Alberto

Personal

It was a challenging fall. How do you deal with this?

Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of Alberto: By setting the course early on. We have been strategically reducing our sales at one of the stumbling retailers for years, and we have never relied so heavily on the hype surrounding purely online players. On the contrary, we have paid meticulous attention to ensure that our customer structure is healthy and resilient.

At Buxemann, your small project in Düsseldorf’s Carlstadt district, you sometimes stand behind the counter yourself. Why is that?

Because the feedback is priceless, because I enjoy meeting people and because I love making very different men excited about Alberto.

Internationalization is ... ... indispensable, but not just in terms of growth, but because every new market opens our eyes. Pitti Uomo and CIFF/Revolver have become our strongest trade fairs.

Cool Germany: Alberto has been photographing its campaigns in Germany for ten years, for which photo­ grapher Thomas Hoeffgen has already won third place at the International Photography Awards™.

Heinz Bauer Manufakt

Kick-off in Asia

Europe, the USA, now Asia: the specialists for high-quality bespoke leather jackets from Reutlingen are expanding. On the occasion of the Porsche Taycan market launch in Seoul, owner Jochen Bauer presented the leather manufacture to 50 VIP guests and the board of directors at an exclusive bespoke event. The Korean agent is now working on a continuation of the cooperation, which, in addition to a permanent representation in the showrooms of the luxury sports car manufacturer, also provides for further exclusive events in the context of driving events and model presentations. www.heinzbauer.com Porsche and Heinz Bauer Manufakt have many fans in common thanks to years of cooperation with racing legend Walter Röhrl.

Committed to Düsseldorf: Ulrike Kähler.

Fashn Rooms X Neonyt Düsseldorf

Moving Closer Together

In January, Fashn Rooms is moving even closer together with the sustainable Neonyt Düsseldorf. «For the first time, we are showing both events in the Alte Schmiedehalle,” says Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director Igedo Exhibitions. “We are thus focusing on the synergies of both formats, without them losing their independence.” The bridge is built by The Stage for panel talks and the Knowledge Area as a center for knowledge transfer on circular fashion and certifications. A permanent fixture: The Showroom Concept for agencies.

Fashn Rooms and Neonyt Düsseldorf: January 27 to 29, 2024 Showroom Concept: January 26 to 29, 2024, www.igedo.com

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Now in a hall in the Areal Böhler: Fashn Rooms and Neonyt Düsseldorf.

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WHAT WILL SHAPE 2024?

Charlotte Kraska Fashion Director anitahass.com

SALLYANN HOUGHTON Industry Manager Fashion/Apparel Epic Games

“ REAL TIME!!”

“Only extreme flexibility can turn challenges such as weather, moods and rapid trends into opportunities.

Only AI technology can solve problems such as margins, costs and employees.

Only authentic individuality can be successful alongside mono-branding.”

OLIVER PABST GENERAL PARTNER, REDALPINE VENTURE PARTNERS AG

“NEW TECHNOLOGIES MAKE IT EASIER FOR YOUNG BRANDS TO INNOVATE, PRODUCE AND ORCHESTRATE GO-TO-MARKET!” 082 style in progress

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Oeko-Tex®

Mastering Responsibility

Care and responsibility along the entire value chain - this is already the law in Germany. Soon, a law at the European level will follow. A new certification program from Oeko-­ Tex® takes up this entrepreneurial challenge.

If you look at Germany or France, you can see how stricter regulations are intended to make the textile and fashion industry fairer and more environmentally friendly. With the German Supply Chain Act, politicians have been creating clear guidelines since 2023. From the right to fair wages to protection against child labor and the well being of the environment, the law holds companies accountable.

In order to comply with their due diligence obligations, companies with more than 1,000 employees must also introduce effective risk management from 2024. This includes having an overview of their own supply chain, including all suppliers, identifying risks to people and the environment and taking preventative measures. Companies must also introduce an internal or external complaints procedure. A similar law is soon to follow at the European level.

As legal requirements become more stringent, companies are becoming increasingly uncertain as to whether they can meet all legal requirements. At the same time, companies are faced with systemic challenges that they can rarely overcome with their own resources. This challenge has prompted the international Oeko-Tex® Association to develop a new certification. Oeko-Tex® Responsible Business is designed for both small companies and multinational corporations in the textile and leather sectors. As part of the certification process, the company’s business policy, risk analysis and complaints mechanism are assessed, among other things. The aim is to identify negative impacts and introduce due diligence measures along the entire supply chain.

For over 30 years, Oeko-Tex® has been supporting companies with standardized solutions to make their manufacturing processes more transparent and sustainable.

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Save the Duck

Retail Rollout

Daniela, what do you expect for the coming season?

Daniela Holnsteiner, International Sales Director Save the Duck: A lot of work (laughs). We plan to continue to grow worldwide, both in the wholesale and the retail sector. One focus is on a retail rollout, which involves opening around ten monobrand stores in 2024. One of these will be in the D-A-CH region, two in Paris, two in New York and potentially five in Italy.

That really sounds like a lot of work. What about Asia?

In Asia, we will launch a joint venture with our Japanese partner and try to transform as many of our current 40 to 50 temporary pop-up stores as possible into long-term shop-in-shop solutions.

And what are the projections for the USA? I also expect good results here, with the aim of doubling sales. The USA accounts for a quarter of our business and the market is responding very well, which is spurring us on to continue investing in it.

The Orange Block at City Life in Milan is a special retail concept.

MMW Collective

Counterpoint

With MMW Collective, Maya Weisswasser is presenting 20 collections for Paris Fashion Week that stand for quiet luxury and craftsmanship. “I’m all about responsible consumption and appreciating unique design, even from unknown labels,” says Maya Weisswasser. She has experience in high-end wholesale, which she combines with Andreas Murkudis’ expertise as a curator. The portfolio for MMW Collective includes quiet specialists such as Doopiaa, Suzusan, Linck Ceramics and Neri Firenze. Maya Weisswasser: “Until now, these quiet brands have not had a platform, now we are giving them a voice.” www.mmwcollective.com

Krakatau

Perfect Match

“Creativity thrives on emotion.”

Maya Weisswasser

Casual fits, well thoughtout details: Krakatau.

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It moves away from the classic quilted jacket and towards clean looks and smooth surfaces. “For us, Krakatau is a great collection with casual fits for men and women, well thought-out details and great value for money,” enthuses Ludovico Nees from First Floor Agency, which is now responsible for distribution in Germany. Special attention is paid to the function of the jackets, as well as the fabrics. Over 80 percent of the polyester is made from recycled raw materials, and RDS-certified down is also used. Retail prices are between 400 and 600 Euros. www.krakatau.com

Explore our fall/winter 24 collection CAPTURE THE NORTH in our digital showroom royrobson.com

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TWO FROM ONE

The highlight of the season at Distretto 12 is definitely the RE-VERS12 parka: double face, made from high-performance tech material, with a jacquard knitted fabric and recycled padding. A successful combination of tradition, innovation and sustainability. This parka offers high wearing comfort and contemporary design, even in extreme temperatures.

RE-VERS12 is Distretto 12’s flagship for the coming winter season.

SPSR.Studio

BESPOKE STREETWEAR TAILORING

“Our style is Antonio Vivaldi feat. Kendrick Lamar,” explains founder Daniel El Menshawi. He has expanded his fan base at Breuninger in Stuttgart, Freiburg and Munich with his trunk shows, where he offers tailored coats, trench coats, blousons, worker jackets, shirts and suits. There is also a ready-to-wear line with caps, sweatshirts and T-shirts. “On demand is our preferred cooperation model.

That’s my solution for retailers, without building up new stock, and at the same time killing boredom together with a local artist.” contact@atelier-rebellion.com, @spsr.studio

Antonio Vivaldi fe Kendricat. k Lamar

LUCK AT PLAY: SEBAGO.

BET ON THIS CARD Cityside with a heel!

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Exciting things from SEBAGO: The Campside series presents waterproof models for the first time, Cityside combines elegance and innovation, from transparent soles to clogs. Whoa: Egle Woman, the first Sebago model ever with a heel! For card game players: loafers with hearts, spades, diamonds and clubs. Last but not least: A Docksides update in new colors.

MADE IN GERMANY

www.seldom.de

SEAMLESS GESTRICKT

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DMI

Finding Partners

DMI has founded the Digital Fashion conference with DMXCO. Do you you really think virtual fashion will become a thing?

Carl Tillessen, Managing Director DMI: Yes. In addition to exclusive NFTs, there will soon be more accessible offerings, like Snapchat filters, with clothes instead of dog ears. So far we can only choose our Future-oriented: background in a video call, soon we Carl Tillessen. will also be able to choose a top.

But the impetus for digital fashion comes from somewhere else.

And from where?

It‘s about digital solutions for the production and distribution of physical clothing - from online sourcing and digital prototyping to virtual fitting. All of this is already big business. There is a thriving industry for which there was previously no marketplace, neither nationally nor internationally.

Why are fashion companies struggling with digitalization?

Because the prevailing thinking is often to do everything in-house. You don‘t have to be able to do everything yourself. It‘s often enough to have partners our event is there to find them. www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de, www.dmexco.com/digital-fashion

Digital Fashion @ DMXCO.

9AM by Dolores

The Perfect Fit!

From the fall 2024 delivery, the Dolores trouser brand will be called 9AM by Dolores.

With this step, design manager Marion Hoferer and brand owner Elmo Fashion GmbH want to convey a more progressive image. “We want the new name to immediately explain that the trousers are suitable for everything from the office to after work,” says Marion Hoferer. “The trousers are currently the key to the look. If they are old, all the other elements don’t work,” says Marion Hoferer. The arguments for 9AM by Dolores? “Trousers with a comprehensible price-performance ratio that look good, are great to mix and match and are a high sell-out item.”

Kastner & Öhler

Get the Look

Christian Adelsberger relies on cooperation with suppliers.

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Kastner & Öhler is a company with high quality standards. What important strategies will be implemented in 2024?

Christian Adelsberger, Head of Purchasing Fashion: The tense situation is noticeable. We will establish further partnerships with our suppliers and we want to strengthen our brands, especially in the premium segment. We have planned 70 new spaces for spring/summer - we are living the lifestyle concept.

What are the next challenges?

The topic of sustainability is still on our agenda - I am excited about the further development of the separation of fabric blends. One challenge will be to further consolidate the growth of online with clever stationary retail at a sophisticated level. And, of course, the upcoming developments in AI and ChatGPT, although I am convinced that people also need people... www.kastner-oehler.at

Dolores will be renamed 9AM by Dolores for distribution in fall 2024.

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Flowers for Friends

Complete Relaunch

Flowers for Friends can now react faster and more flexibly to trends and market impulses, even during the season: with a new modular system that allows new styles to be integrated into an existing order. Production has been relocated mainly to Portugal and Turkey, while quality standards have been raised thanks to high-quality fabrics from Italy and appropriate processing. For fall/winter 2024/25, there are feminine tweed jackets with gold details, glitter checked bombers and new pleated skirts. Silk stretch blouses are particularly feminine and look great with wide pants. www.flowers-for-friends.com Trendy: Flowers for Friends.

Seek

WYSIWYG

In an interview with us shortly after the sale of CP Company, Carlo Rivetti said: “If you steer two ships, one that always sails calmly and steadily and one that sails through storms, the calm one always comes up short.” Does this image also apply to Seek and Premium?

Maren Wiebus, Creative & Event Director Seek: Although Berlin is not really by the sea, there is a lot of truth in this quote. There is no question that Seek has benefited from the Premium tailwind, the trust, the manpower and the structures. We are very grateful Part of the fleet for 15 years, now the Berlin flagship: Seek and its captain Maren Wiebus.

B15

Feel-Good Shopping

For a perfectly tailored shopping experience, the team at B15 in Klagenfurt and Velden relies on personal relationships. Independence prevails in the store design, for example with custom-made sales tables. “There is so much overstimulation,” explains owner Stefan Trötzmüller. “Nobody needs anything, everyone wants to have fun. We operate because we are there for our customers.

When they exit our stores, they do so joyfully.” His sons are now also part of the company, which has made an excellent name for itself with men’s and women’s wear. www.b15.at

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for this large and strong mother ship, to stay with the image. However, the team and I have acted independently since Seek started around 15 years ago. Regardless of what was happening around us. Whether in-house or out there.

We know what we are doing.

We were never really “quiet”. We’ve hosted BBQ parties with the Amsterdam streetwear legends from Patta, had Pharrell Williams on site and celebrated Billionaire Boys Club together, rented bowling facilities and had the Fred Perry team compete against Firmament.

The focus was never on Seek. Less attention is therefore not something that I would view negatively in retrospect. It’s about our brands, partners, dealers, etc. Seek is a home for all these people.

Seek is a community, you can feel that...

“Community” and “future” belong together.

Only a close community and honest exchange with future-oriented and loyal people can create something new. With the Conscious Clubs, for example, we have proven that we can shape the future. More than half of Seekers are now committed to sustainability.

At the moment, regardless of the future, we also need a lot of the present. Closeness to life and values as guidelines that we and our fellow campaigners have always lived by: Fairness, openness, willingness and ability to cooperate.

Why is a visit to Seek worthwhile?

What you Seek is what you get.

FIL-NOIR.COM

FILNOIR1899

RIGHT NOW AGENCIES

They are the souls of Knallgrau: Bettina Groeger and Harry Heinrich present in their Munich showroom and in Sabine Lamann’s showroom in Düsseldorf.

Knallgrau Agency

“OUR STRENGTHS? INDIVIDUALITY AND PARTNERSHIP!”

Noumeno from Padua stands for grown-up streetwear, feminine with a cool twist.

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Harry, what does your agency stand for?

Harry Heinrich, owner of Agentur Knallgrau: For small, distinct brands that are still unknown in our market and with which we can grow. The best example is Floor from Italy, our strongest collection. When we acquired it for the D-A-CH market five years ago, there were no customers; today there are 180. The secret of its success is innovative knitwear at affordable prices, which can often be worn all year round and is complemented harmoniously with ready-towear. We distribute Floor as a general agency in cooperation with subagents - this enables us to serve customers in all areas with the same level of expertise.

In general, the topic of partnership is important to you.

Bettina Groeger, owner of Agentur Knallgrau: Yes, which is why we particularly like working with small, owner-managed companies.

With them, we can be particularly flexible in responding to requests from retailers. This is also the case with the Italian design collection Shirtaporter, which we have been working with for eleven years. The style is always fashionable, unmistakable and thrives on the specially developed prints.

You also surprise us with exciting new additions.

Harry Heinrich: Yes, Dawn x Dare is a real rising star with expressive hand-knit garments made in Tuscany. Within just one year, we have been able to win over 60 customers. What we love are the unique pieces in multicolor knits made from leftover yarns. Customers love the fact that every item looks different.

Brand new in our range is feminine, flattering jersey from Liv Bergen and Tomorrow Denim, clean and fashionable. The jeans match all our collections and are an excellent finishing touch.

Brands: Cute Stuff, Dawn x Dare, Floor, Liv Bergen, Noumeno, Shades, Shirtaporter, Tomorrow Denim, Wuth www.knallgrau-agentur.de

Ahead in design, always customer-oriented: The Floor collection.

RIGHT NOW Ag e n c i e s

Lagom Fashion Agency

SNEAKERS & SPORTSWEAR The sneaker brand Garment Project from Copenhagen is a new addition to the portfolio of Christian Sanders and Philipp Schlösser’s agency for Germany and Austria. This season, in addition to casual sneakers, loafers and hybrids for women and men, for the first time there is a complete men’s collection with knitwear, shirts, pants, overshirts and T-shirts at retail prices between 60 and 180 Euros.

In addition, the brand continues to focus on trendy collabs, for example with Opera Sports.

The premium sneakers and boots made in Portugal cost between 160 and 250 Euros in retail.

They can be ordered via a B2B tool from the warehouse in Denmark, with free sizing and NOS capability. The collection can be seen at CIFF/Revolver in Copenhagen and at Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich.

Brands: Ay Studios, Garment Project, Pig & Hen, Scandinavian Edition www.lagom-fashionagency.com

Garment Project has been making sneakers in a minimalist Scandinavian design since 2013, and now there’s a clothing line to match.

Heubel Modeagentur

CULT REVIVAL

Directly after the 50th anniversary of the Düsseldorf agency, which is now being managed by Mark Heubel in its second generation, a cult brand is added to the agency portfolio: Checker. In the 1980s and 1990s, the Italian brand’s denim shirts and jackets with their elaborate mother-of-pearl press studs and distinctive checkered logo were a must in every closet from Sylt to Sicily. Together with partners, the license for Checker was acquired on a long-term basis and the brand is now being brought back to life. The design of the shirts is based on the originals from the past, with a modern twist. The retail price for the shirts is 159 Euros, jackets will be added in the next step. www.heubel.info Brands: Checker, Corte di Kel, Desoto Luxury, Di Poldo, Emanuel Berg, Gloverall, Handmacher, Heinz Bauer Manufakt, Lodenfrey, Wallmann

Denim revival: Italian brand Checker’s denim shirts were already a cult item in the 1980s and 1990s.

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Agentur Gabi Heininger & Agentur de Silvio

NEW

JOINT CAUSE

Gabi Heininger and Vito de Silvio have decided they can do better together and are pooling their expertise for the D-A-CH market, including for the shoe brand Ama from Italy with showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. Since 2011, Ama has been offering a collection of modern sneakers of high quality and comfort with distinctive design elements. The outsole of some models is made from completely recycled and recyclable material.

In addition, particularly high-quality Italian leather is used. Retail prices range from 230 to 280 Euros. In 2015, Ama entered into a partnership with Manifatture Il Faro, an offshoot of the famous Calzaturificio Quadrifoglio, which has been producing shoes for numerous luxury brands in Tuscany for many years.

Brands: Ama, Cashimar, Inuikii, Lorena Paggi, Méliné, Officine Creative, Zespà www.agenturheininger.de www.agenturdesilvio.de

Lomme 2018 is an international agency that positions insider brands with a holistic approach.

Lomme 2018

BECOMING INDISPENSABLE Paulina, how was the last season?

Paulina De La Torre, founder of Lommme 2018: It was a mixed season.

The market is in a phase where brands need to create added value. It is no longer enough to make a beautiful product. The product must reflect values, meet delivery commitments and have the right price.

What do you expect from the next season?

It will be a more challenging season where showrooms and brands will have to fight to be seen as essential in retail.

What trends are expected in the fall/winter 2024/25 season?

I believe that more than a stylistic trend, of which there are many, the new trend will be coherence in the business area.

Brands: Krizia, KV Roes, LaQuan Smith, Manokhi, Sami Miro Vintage www.lomming.com

Timeless sneakers: Ama’s sporty style is casually combined with sartorial elements of traditional shoemaking.

Agentur MNE “F Cashmere is a new addition to our agency,”

says Mark Etzold from Agentur MNE. “Innovative processes are used in small Italian factories to create patterns and color gradients that give every item of clothing a special character.” SoSue was launched at MNE last summer with 47 new customers; the first winter season is now following.

Guaranteed success: Knitwear from Mouleta, which will be further expanded for winter. www.mne-fashion.de

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DESIGN AND CRAFTSPERSONSHIP: F CASHMERE.

RIGHT NOW Ag e n c i e s

Die Hinterhofagentur

FIVE NEW LABELS

“In turbulent times like these, naturally there are some changes. The entire fashion market is currently experiencing the biggest upheaval in recent decades, if not ever.

Our concept of bringing product-focused manufactured collections to the German-speaking market is therefore more valid than ever. All existing collections also keep evolving and have plenty of innovations to offer. We are looking forward to an exciting new order season,” says Dominik Meuer, owner of Die Hinterhofagentur from Munich-Schwabing. Knitwear specialist Masq from Perugia makes a high-quality contemporary statement for men and women, with an excellent price-performance ratio.

Aragona, a cashmere specialist from Prato, has decades of product expertise and skillfully implements this in their colorful women’s collections. A new technical method of piece dyeing defines the look of casual sportswear label Keeling für Herren. The new jacket brand in the agency is Hetregò, known to many as a high-quality alternative in the premium segment. Ad Hoc has completely reinvented itself; the outerwear for men is now called ADH. The women’s jeans brand Noir ‘n’ Bleu with contemporary silhouettes and cool denim tops completes the range of new brands, all of which are managed in Austria and Germany.

On display in Düsseldorf and Munich. www.diehinterhofagentur.de Brands: ADH, Aragona, Atelier Alpiniste, BOB, Borelio, Des Petits Hauts, Hartford, Hetregò, Jerry Key, Keeling, Koike, Maison Hotel, Masq, Noir ‘n’ Bleu, Four Ten, Portofiori, Prime Shoes & Hamlet, Sophie, The Jack & The Jackie, Original Vintage Style, Waxed, Wool & Co.

Aragona: Casual looks by the cashmere specialist from Prato.

Italian denim jacket specialist Hetregò celebrates its comeback in Germany and Austria.

Denim brand Noir ‘n’ Bleu completely manufactures in Italy.

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RIGHT NOW Ag e n c i e s

NEW

Trouser expertise: White Sand from Italy.

Johannes Strasser, Ludovico Nees and Samuel Schatten are the First Floor Agency.

First Floor Agency

THE TRIO

Ludovico, the three of you founded the agency, why?

Ludovico Nees, co-founder of First Floor Agency: Everyone knows how difficult the topic of recruitment is in agencies - the three of us have enough time to set ourselves up without reaching the limits of growth that we would have on our own. We also each have our own talents. Johannes (Strasser), Samuel (Schatten) and I have clearly defined areas of responsibility.

Three salaries from the start?

That underlines our ambition and seriousness. We are setting out to be an agency right from the start, not just a temporary venture. Our showroom in Munich’s Company House is up and running as of now.

What are you doing differently?

We want to score points with personality and be a holistic partner for our brand partners. We bring a lot of experience to the table and the drive to go our own way.

We are in contact with other agencies of our generation. www.firstflooragency.com Brands: Anonymous Apparel, Bongusta, Krakatau, Tenue, Paltò, White Sand

More visibility through social media: Adventure Fashion.

Tenue stands for premium workwear.

Adventure Fashion GmbH

CONSISTENCY

For Marc Kofler, the goal for the current season is consistency. “It is crucial to stay focused. We achieve this by expanding the individual collections, high quality, excellent service and a convincing price-performance ratio,” he explains.

The brands reflect this vision. Duno presents the Attic Capsule, a series of fine wool fabrics made in Italy. Untildress surprises with blazers, pants and coats, characterized by Italian workmanship. Sainte Mer is completed with silk blouses, wool jackets and leather, and Trusted Handwork introduces knitwear made from cashmere and wool. Be Able is also showing women’s pants in innovative styles from this season. Crunas Total Look remains strong and focuses on the highest Italian quality.

Brands: 120% Lino, Anfiny, Be Able, Cruna, DL1961 Denim, Duno, Iheart, Janthee, Kashette, Kiefermann, Tonno & Panna, Sainte Mer, Trusted Handwork, Untildress, Urbancode, Vegancode, Übernacht www.adventure-gmbh.de

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A PASSION FOR EFFICIENT PRODUCTION.

TECHNOLOGY.

First-class solutions: State-of-the-art machines plus digital and automated processing methods.

texprocess.com EFFICIENCY.

23. – 26. 4. 2024 FRANKFURT / MAIN

PROGRESS.

in parallel with

part of

powered by

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SchulzAco Agentur

TOP FIVE

Strong collection at the agency: Elisabetta Franchi.

At Tom Ripley, the level of fashion, quality and fit are just right.

First of all: What’s new with you?

Michael Schulz, owner of SchulzAco Agentur: Eleh, a collection that is already a high-flyer in Italy. Their fresh style and grounded prices have convinced me.

Patrizia Pepe has been with you since last season. How has the brand been received?

Very well, Patrizia Pepe was actually the missing component of our top five Italian contemporary brands and complements Pinko, Twinset, Elisabetta Franchi and Liviana Conti perfectly. These brands in particular are returning to their DNA and what they once started out with. The fits are more sophisticated, the quality is higher, and the looks have a much stronger identity. This is a strong development that is very much in line with the needs of the market.

Which collection, in your opinion, has a wow effect?

Elisabetta Franchi. The collection is more restrained in terms of color and again very coherently structured overall, with sensational dresses and daily wear that is very well received, just like the jackets and coats.

Alessia Santi is minimalist, wearable and at the same time expressive in terms of cuts and colors. My favorites are the wide coats, which are even more special in combination with the scarves.

Brands: Alessia Santi, Alysi, Attic & Barn, Beatrice.b, Bleifrei, Borbonese, Caractere, Current Elliott, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Eleh, Elisabetta Franchi, Liviana Conti, Luisa Spagnoli, Maliparmi, Miomojo, Momoni, Oofwear, Parosh, Patrizia Pepe, Pinko, Rinascimento, Salty Skin, Twinset Milano www.acomode.de

“The looks are once again showing much more identity.”

Michael Schulz

Fresh, trendoriented: Pinko.

Room Nine Agency

SIMPLY COOL! Distretto 12 from Florence is a new additionat Room Nine Agency. “The modern preppy style of menswear really excites me,” says agency owner Torsten Müller. His second new addition is DKNY Intimates with underwear, swimwear and loungewear for men.

A proven guarantee of success at Room Nine? Tom Ripley. “Knitwear, cashmere and sweats are handmade in Italy and also impress retailers with their great quality and perfect fit,” enthuses Müller. “Incidentally, I think ACBC is probably the most sustainable sneaker at the moment: vegan, recycled and super comfortable - but above all, it’s simply cool.” The inspiration for Ma.Strum’s outerwear comes from the Massimo Osti archive, which is interpreted in a modern way using new materials.

Brands: ACBC, Distretto 12, Hero Seven, Love Brand, Ma.Strum, Ron Dorff, Tatras, Tom Ripley www.roomninefashionagency.de

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SALT 01

23 – 24.01.24 SALT 02

23 – 25.02.24

Gusswerk Salzburg, Söllheimerstrasse 16, Salzburg, Austria www.salt-salzburg.at, IG: saltsalzburg

2964 Garmisch Alexandre Mareuil Alpe Piano Alpenherz Alpin Louge Anna Lascata Anno Domini Design Atelier Alpiniste Cocovero Creation Bauer Daddy’s Daughters Dirndl & Bua Farm um’s Herz Fei scho schee Glücklich Gottseidank Grasegger Manufaktur Grenzgang Habsburg Kleidermanufaktur Heimatglück Josef & Anna Lembert Hutfabrik Lena Hoschek Lodenfrey München 1842 Lodenwear by Steiner Luis Trenker Meindl Fashion Merchen Medchen Michaela Feyrsinger Mimmu Minibag Münchner Lodenfabrik Ostwald Ledermanufaktur Patgoa Ploom Ploom xx Daddy’s Daughters Poldi Resi Hammerer RH 2023 Rita in Palma Rockmacherin Rockstar Seenberg Sportalm Stajan Kunst & Mode Steiner 1888 Stephan Babarino Stokton T.ba Textilhanddruck Barbara Kossär Thea Mika Verbenas von & zu Wallmann Wildstelle Wolkenstricker Wunderfell

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Antones

HANDMADE “Most of my repeat orders come from stores in more rural regions or smaller neighborhoods that work very closely with their customers and whose concept is primarily based on personality,” says Sarah Freise, explaining why she chose a niche. She runs her agency like an owner-managed boutique, where she wants to present products with soul, all of which come from artisan businesses and are characterized by their handmade charm. The experienced sales expert entered the business three years ago with her agency Antones. “And I’m still a fledgling,” she says with a laugh. With classic pre-ordering, balanced delivery rhythms, stock programs and quick re-order options, Antones relies on a very modern concept that is close to the market: exceptional products in a highly professional set-up. Sarah Freise has her showrooms in Düsseldorf on Cecilienallee and in Munich’s Lodenfreypark.

Brands: Jack Gomme, Latino, Ledaf, Moismont, Soko

They got to know each other at SALT in Salzburg: Sarah Freise and Stephan Huber.

Heritage Showroom

FLASHED

Welcome to Parkstadt Schwabing! From now on, Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann will no longer be presenting their collections at Lodenfreypark, but at Wilhelm-Wagenfeld-Straße 22 in Munich. “The new showroom creates a cosy atmosphere and forms the perfect backdrop for womenswear, especially as we are now more strongly positioned in this area,” says Michael Brockmann. The focus on three collections remains. The shirts and blouses by Robert Friedman have been given even more product focus, with more plain colors, new flannels with a soft feel and casual Oxford shirts.

“That was missing before,” says Michael Brockmann. “For me, Circolo is one of the best-functioning collections, with high-quality jersey, beautiful prints and a wonderfully relaxed style. We will all be flashed by how on point the collection will be for fall/winter.”

Brands: Circolo 1901, Myths, Robert Friedman www.heritage-showroom.de

A.D..E.L.E. has newly arrived at the Paul’s Selection agency.

Paul’s Selection

COZY. AND SEXY!

Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann have moved the Heritage showroom to Schwabing.

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Lina Dageförde is now supporting the Paul’s Selection agency team. “Together we are continuing to expand womenswear,” says a delighted Paul Schulz. For example with the new addition RRD. The core of the brand remains outerwear with technical materials, which becomes a total look with knitwear, blouses, pants and skirts. “The prices are also great, for example the buying price of pants is 69 to 89 Euros, with a triple calculation.” A.D.E.L.E. is strong in suits. “Cool, modern, made in Italy,” summarizes Paul Schulz. “Another new addition is the leather and lambskin collection Emmeti, cozy and sexy at the same time! With new hybrids that combine down, knitwear or neoprene with leather.” Arovescio continues to focus on knitwear expertise, with wider-cut shapes in cashmere and cashmere blends. Jackets, blouses and pants make Arovescio a ready-to-wear collection.

Brands: A.D.E.L.E., Arovescio, Emmeti Leather, Fabiano Ricci, GTA, Ghirardelli, I’m Fine, RRD, Sonrisa, Veneta Cinture www.paulsselection.com

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Niklas Rill Agency

A FEEL-GOOD LIVING ROOM

Establishing a one-man agency is not easy, especially when private strokes of fate happen like it did to you. How did you manage?

Niklas Rill, owner of Niklas Rill Agency: It was challenging, especially as everyone had to give their all to make a reasonable turnover. My wife fell seriously ill in mid-August, which demanded all my attention. Some things just fell through at the agency, but luckily the summer orders had already been completed by then and my brands proved to be real partners, for which I am incredibly grateful! Many retailers and even competitors have also supported me. A big thank you to Marc Kofler, who has been very supportive.

How are you starting the new season?

With a lot of confidence. I’m really looking forward to showing my collections in two new showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf, in the premises of Oliver Braun’s The Noon Agency.

The showroom in Düsseldorf in particular is the most beautiful of all for me, a feel-good living room with great people. I’m more than sure it will be fun to work there!

Brands: Bowery NYC, C968, DU4, Seldom, The Nim Standard www.niklasrill.de

CONFIDENT: NIKLAS RILL.

NEW

Strong in fit, style and fabrics: The Nim Standard.

Collective Fashion Agency

“IT’S THE EXPERIENCE THAT COUNTS NOW”

From dealer to agent: Carsten Strauß switched sides and founded Collective Fashion Agency in 2022 with collections such as Malej and Chaser.

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Carsten, you’ve been working in purchasing and retail for a long time, now you’re switching to sales. Why is that a plus?

Carsten Strauß, founder of Collective Fashion Agency: Because I can put myself in the retailer’s shoes and many people appreciate the fact that I can give expert advice on choosing the right pieces, because until recently, I myself was on the other side.

What kind of collections do you want to be known for?

Unusual, preferably feminine collections that bring variety. What everyone has is no longer appealing.

You are also always at Finings Inc. in Paris during the season. A perfect complement?

I love the push you get in Paris, I always come back with a boost of energy because the city, stores and people are simply inspiring.

Stay small or grow, what are your plans?

Of course, I also want to grow, but always in such a way that I can live up to my claim of building and maintaining a brand together with my retailers.

Brands: Aqtaea, Chaser, Leap Concept, Lebrand, Malej, Saltwater Luxe www.collective-fashion-agency.com

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Together into the future: Marion and Timothy Hoferer.

More than one million Instagram followers: Alohas, new at Modeist.

Modeist

NEXT GENERATION Timothy, what momentum are you creating?

Timothy Hoferer, co-owner of Modeist: A new generation is rising up. I like being the bridge between the success factors that have made us great and new projects.

What is the mix for retailers?

We believe it’s the tension between something special and products that may never have to go on sale. That’s what our portfolio is geared towards, with strong

house brands such as Soldout, Pride to Be, 9AM by Dolores and Nineto9 in the mix, with new additions such as Seventy Venezia, Alohas and JNBY. Is there a trend you are focusing on?

High-quality, feminine tailoring. With Seventy Venezia and Nineto9, we are well equipped for this. Our everyday brands are also much more sophisticated, even Soldout has customized pieces. www.modeist.com Brands: 8PM, 9AM by Dolores, Alohas, European Culture, JNBY, La Milanesa, Lost in Me, Nineto9, Pride to Be, Soldout, Seventy Venezia, TRVL Dress

The Qool Agency “Goodnews from London is new in our lineup,” reports Boris Mircovic. “The focus is on sneakers

with playful sophistication.” The bicolor penny loafers from Duke & Dexter also come from England. Sporty: the metallic baseball jackets from Mercer Amsterdam.

“Lola, our own brand, is showing knitwear, jackets and shirts for the first time. And Amendi’s Scandinavian chic is creating a buzz, both in the agency and in our store.” theqool.de

Modeagentur Klaus Sell-in and sell-out 2023 to 2022? Christian

The name Goodnews reflects the program.

Feminine silhouette: Reiko from France.

Klaus is satisfied, but is constantly striving to maintain the momentum in his agency. That’s why there are new additions again: the French jeans and pants label Reiko, and Unio Hamburg with accessories made in Germany. Reiko is a fashionable trouser brand with a trendy fit and retail prices between 119 and 139 Euros. www.modeagentur-klaus.at

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Stolz Modeagentur

HIGH QUALITY AT ALL LEVELS Standing still does not suit Hubert Stolzlechner: his active role as a link between industry and retail is what drives him to constantly develop his Stolz agency. He recently expanded his loft at the heart of Gusswerk in Salzburg to include a wraparound gallery on the upper floor. And he’s clearly delighted with this. “There are many opportunities, especially in challenging times. But you also must seize them proactively. So, this was a good time to invest and offer our customers even more quality of stay and space.” His brand portfolio, which specializes in exclusive high-quality products, remains consistent. Stolzlechner: “I am particularly pleased that Habsburg is now in such good hands. In fact, it feels like a new addition.”

Brands: 2964Garmisch, Atelier Alpiniste, Dirndl und Bua, Josef & Anna, Habsburg Kleidermanufaktur, Lodenwear by Steiner, Manufaktur Grasegger, Me°rchen Me°dchen, Steiner1888, Wallmann www.hstolz.at

More space, more quality for customers.

Agentur Stolz in Salzburg invests in the future.

Komet und Helden Back for good - the wholesale

A striking look: Penn & Ink N.Y., a key player in the portfolio of Agentur Prins-Juric.

Agentur Prins-Juric

WITH JOY

“We all decided to provide a service - so we have to live it!” says Damir Prins-Juric, adding: “The recruitment market was very tight for us agencies, it’s improving a bit at the moment, but in 2023 the market was virtually empty.” The recipe: the agency’s two founders are even more ambitious. “Henk can do everything with numbers, I can sell,” laughs Damir Prins-Juric. “Our growth comes from good relationships and expanding the men’s collections,” says Henk Prins. What began with Amaranto and Koon is now being continued with labels such as Front Street 8, Brekka, a jacket collection from Italy, and I’m Brian. The new additions: Dirty Laundry from Greece and Arkistar, a young jacket project.

“We are very happy about Villagallo, who are back on board with their beautiful collection.” www.prins-juric.com

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business of British brand Superdry is returning to its former agency Komet und Helden. Before Superdry Germany GmbH was founded in 2013, the agency was a key partner of the label for more than ten years and played a key role in establishing Superdry in German-speaking countries. Managing Director Henrik Soller: “We are looking forward to reviving this successful partnership and continuing to contribute to the success of the brand.”

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Select Studio

STRATEGIC COOPERATION “We are not only experts in expanding international brands,” says Select Studio owner Bernard Waage. With Paul & Shark, Montecore, Add and Gianni Chiarini, the agency also has a strong Italian portfolio. “We love doing strategic work for a brand, re-positionings or the omnichannel expansion of well-established brands. Now more than ever, it’s important to have a good, healthy sales mix, and we always have that in mind.” Examples of brands that are doing this particularly well are Essentiel Antwerp, Gestuz and Munthe. “These brands prove that you can combine visibility in stores such as Lodenfrey or KaDeWe, with a presence at top independent retailers,” says Bernard Waage.

The new showroom in Düsseldorf turned out to be a power move. “It has given us a lot of visibility, which has also brought us new customers or a new perception in existing relationships.” He is delighted to have been entrusted with sales for Germany and Austria by Neil Barrett. “The brand approached us, which is naturally flattering.” With brands such as Norse Projects, Herskind and Stand Studio, the teams in Munich and Düsseldorf are proving that they are tastemakers. “Selective distribution is already in our name,” says Bernard Waage. “We love brands with such a sharp, fashionable profile and such a clear identity. Without being loud, they give a line a progressive character.” Also not loud, but convincing: Montecore from Italy, outerwear that maintains the price levels for a perfectly crafted jacket that others have long since abandoned.

The credo for 2024: expand the successful events for brands such as Gianni Chiarini, Essentiel Antwerp and Gestuz to more retail partners and brands. “Making a contribution in the sell-out has become so important.”

Brands: Neil Barrett, Stand Studio, Essentiel Antwerp, Munthe, Norse Projects, Paul & Shark, John Smedley, Montecore, Stine Goya, Arena Studio, Gestuz, Herskind, Gianni Chiarini, Iceberg, ADD Milano Current / Elliott, Studio AR, Sand Copenhagen, Suncoo Paris, Dante 6, Toral

Lambskin expertise: Benedetta Novi.

Select Studio uses events to strengthen both their brands and their relationships with retailers.

Agentur Toepfer “We are delighted with our new additions Benedetta Novi, Silk95Five and Ferrante Woman,” says Florian Kuhblanck. “They are an excel-

lent addition to our women’s outerwear with a lambskin, silk and knitwear collection.” Betta Corradi offers innovative eco-fur, while PT Torino continues to develop strongly. “The collection now offers a fully-fledged NOS service, which is outstanding for an Italian trouser specialist.”

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Germany Gunther Grebe Modeagentur Stefanie Günner Tel: +49 173 5144029 Email: office@gunthergrebe.de

Austria Gunther Grebe Modeagentur Gunther Grebe Tel: +43 699 11 34 05 35 Email: office@gunthergrebe.at

Switzerland Daily Business GmbH Julia Winkler Tel: +41 44 915 30 30 Email: julia@dailybusiness-gmbh.ch

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Agentur Meier & Rybinski

VERY FASHIONABLE “The total look by Crochè from Italy is very fashionable, very wearable, and all at sensational prices with a calculation of 2.8 to 3.0,” enthuses Anna-Zoi Rybinski. New to the agency since last season is Don The Fuller, a very trendy denim collection for men and women. “Behind it is a producer of renowned design collections, and this expertise is also evident in Don The Fuller,” says the agency owner. The Max & Moi cashmere collection from Paris exudes French sophistication. The PIN 1876 collection

by Botto Giuseppe is an evergreen at the agency. “We have strong pre-orders and just as many repeat orders during the season; many retailers are updating their ranges to match the colors.” On top of this, the fact that the scarves are never reduced in stores pays off. “This makes Pin one of the best and most uncomplicated collections for us.”

Brands: Botto Giuseppe Pin 1876, Crochè, Don The Fuller, Kerry Grima, Max & Moi www.meier-rybinski.de

Fashionable jackets, also priced perfectly: Offplan.

High performance from Crochè.

Agentur Ventrella

THE CHERRY ON TOP

Michaelis Fashion Agency

THE BRAVE ARE REWARDED Offplan is now in its third season at René and Daniela Michaelis’ agency. “It was clear to us from the start that the courage to interpret jackets in a fashionable way would be rewarded,” says René Michaelis. “We were able to win over 80 fashionable retailers in southern Germany in just the second round of orders.” The prices are mostly between 199 and 399 Euros in retail, with a margin of 2.8. A B2B store also speaks for the collection. The topic of leather is back, for example at Oakwood.

“The rising sales figures support this, we just need to be bold with colors and shapes.” Yippie Hippie stands for color, loving details and fun with expressive fashion. The proportion of knitwear and outdoor pieces will be increased for winter. Absolut Cashmere remains the agency’s strongest collection, with new looks, cashmere blends and styles that are even more fashion-oriented.

Brands: Absolut Cashmere, Leomax Cashmere, Goldgarn, Goldgarn My White Tea, Oakwood, Offplan, Yippie Hippie

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A clear commitment to the niche: “The best way to counter the current consumer slump is with uniqueness,” says Gaby Ventrella. Niche lovers will find a balanced mix of timeless elegance and fashionable trends in the agency’s portfolio, which is challenging, but never overwhelming. New this season is the Sorelle atelier collection by the Bruno sisters from Turin.

Individual favorite garments of the highest quality and attention to detail. “The cherry on top,” explains Gaby Ventrella. www.agentur-ventrella.de Brands: 813, Anitroc, Avant Toi, Al Ain, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, Le Sarte Pettegole, NDV, Nine in the Morning, Nove, PAO, Sorelle, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei

Uniqueness for fans of the niche: Sorelle is a new addition at Agentur Ventrella.

SCAN CODE TO VIEW THE LOOKBOOK

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Shangri-Land

THE HAPPY PLACE

Two new arrivals at Ilka Nagelschmitz: House of Dagmar and Neeve Studios.

Modeagentur Achim Repp is now responsible for the distribution of Trusted

Handwork in Austria for Adventure Fashion GmbH and is also presenting a new label: Tantä. The jackets from Spain are animal free, waterproof and sustainable and have affordable prices. Achim Repp is responsible for sales in southern Germany and Austria. GiH from Italy, known for jackets made from high-quality materials, is also new. www.ar-modeagent.de

Sustainable jackets: Tantä.

The VII Agency x O. Brehmer Agency

ONE PLUS ONE

Tina Ferragamo Loch finds exciting contemporary labels such as H2O Fagerholt via the modern route: “I became aware of the Danish brand on Instagram through their key item, the raincoat. It’s reissued every season, either in its original form or slightly modified.” Now she has teamed up with Oliver Brehmer. His agency O. Brehmer stands for many years of experience in the north of Germany, while Ferragamo Loch looks after the west and south. This will also be reinforced in the new constellation of The VII Agency x O. Brehmer agency. The joint, larger location is located at Kaiserswerther Straße 137 in Düsseldorf. The premium brand Apparis, which combines the finest materials with ethical values, is also new to the portfolio.

Brands: Apparis, H2O, H2O Fagerholt, Rails, Stylein, Trine Tuxen @the_vii_agency

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Feeling low? The market has had enough of that, says agency owner Ilka Nagelschmitz, and is countering it with established brands such as Warm-Me and Sea Me Happy, as well as two new additions.

House of Dagmar, the Scandinavian affordable luxury brand that attaches particular importance to sustainable production and enjoys an international reputation. And Neeve Studios, perfect staple pieces made exclusively from GOTS-certified materials. “The qualities are luxurious and you won’t want to wear anything else,” enthuses Ilka Nagelschmitz. All of the agency’s collections are on display at Priscohaus in Munich and at Galerie Meierbach at Kennedydamm 1 in Düsseldorf.

Ilka Nagelschmitz is also always on site at the brands’ Paris showrooms for important order dates. www.shangri-land.de Brands: 3x1 Denim, Corlin Eyewear, House of Dagmar, Neeve Studios, Nikben, Sea Me Happy, Warm-Me

A feel for the next generation meets expertise at The VII Agency x O. Brehmer Agency.

FALL - WINTER ‘24 E VE R Y PA I R O F A M B I T I O U S S H O E S I S A T E S TA M E N T T O O U R D E D I CAT I O N TO Q UA L I TY A N D C R A F TS M A N S H I P. WE TA K E PR I D E I N U S I N G PR E M I U M M AT E R I A LS A N D PRECISION ENGINEERING TO DELIVER A FOOTWEAR EXPE R I E N C E T H AT E L EVAT E S YO U R EVE RY ST E P. FROM PORTUGAL TO THE WORLD.

VI S I T U S AT AMBITIOUS-BRAND.COM

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Quality made in Portugal: Ambitious produces in its own factory.

PFA Studio AG Tina Windscheid joins forces with

internationally renowned brand developer M’Bianda Nelson from the 11211NY Agency and founds PFA Studios - Switzerland’s first next-gen fashion and creative brand agency that combines fashion with art, food, music and sneakers. “ Agencies must now completely reinvent themselves and become real meeting places,” says Windscheid.

Deluxe Distribution

NEW SHOE SPECIALIST The Portuguese brand Ambitious is a new addition to the portfolio of the Berlin agency, which will be responsible for distribution in Germany and Austria in future. It has been in existence for over 15 years and produces in its own factory with over 200 employees near Porto.

The fall/winter 2024 collection consists of 90 high-quality styles for men, divided into the groups Casual, Sneaker and Modern Classics, with retail prices between 139 and 169 Euros with a 2.7 calculation. In addition to classic leather sneakers and models in a running look with ultra-light soles and an eco line, as well as new models with a

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patented air chamber comfort system, there are ultra-light, water-repellent leather boots in a classic mountaineering or worker boot look with a maximum feel-good effect. Plus a range of Chelsea or Chukka boots and comfortable low shoes from brogues and Norwegians to monkstraps and loafers, always with comfortable soles.

A B2B store for repeat orders impresses with free sizing and low minimums. Key accounts include Zumnorde, Tretter and Prange. The collection can be seen at Pitti, ANWR 1, CIFF and Micam.

Brands: 4CCCCEES, Ambitious, Casall, East Pacific Trade, Hoff, Run of, United Nude www.deluxe-distribution.de

The new team: Rachida Betschart, Tina Windschief, M’Bianda Nelson, Michael Pedratscher, Madi and Lilly.

LAGOM Fashion Fashion Agency Agency

Florence Florence II Dusseldorf Dusseldorf II Copenhagen Copenhagen II Munich Munich (Pitti Uomo) (Pitti Uomo)

(Supreme) (Supreme)

(Ciff) (Ciff)

(Supreme) (Supreme)

Garment Garment Project Project

Scandinavian Scandinavian Edition Edition

Pig Pig & & Hen Hen

Garment Garment Project Project

Ay Ay Studios Studios

Pig Pig & & Hen Hen

Christian Christian Sanders Sanders M: +49 162 M: +49 162 605 605 77 77 77 77 Chris@lagom-fashionagency.com Chris@lagom-fashionagency.com

Philipp Philipp Schlösser Schlösser M: +49 174 M: +49 174 106 106 99 99 88 88 Philipp@lagom-fashionagency.com Philipp@lagom-fashionagency.com

www.lagom-fashionagency.com www.lagom-fashionagency.com Scandinavian Edition (DACH - BNLX) I Garment Project (DE & AT) I Pig & Hen (DE & AT) I James Ay (DE) Scandinavian Edition (DACH - BNLX) I Garment Project (DE & AT) I Pig & Hen (DE & AT) I James Ay (DE) Int. Contacts: Kent@garmenproject.com I Daniel@jamesay.com I Thomas@pighen.com Int. Contacts: Kent@garmenproject.com I Daniel@jamesay.com I Thomas@pighen.com Thomas@scandinavianedition.com Thomas@scandinavianedition.com

FASHION

ITALIAN LABEL, FRENCH NAME.

Authentic denim essence in black, white and blue.

KALEIDOSCOPE OF COMBINATIONS The Italian label tells a captivating story of love and passion for the world of denim. The name was deliberately chosen in French as a tribute to the city of Nimes, where denim has been produced since the 15th century. The second layer of meaning is linked to the memory of influential French designers from the 1980s who redefined the concept of jeans. Creative Director Fabiano Ragosta mixes modern minimalism with the timeless beauty of vintage pieces. The high-quality materials are manufactured and processed entirely in Italy. Special attention is paid to the authentic washes. In the fall/winter 2024/25 collection, there are numerous new fits for pants, interesting innovations for skirts and a range of clean denim shirts with elaborate details. Starting this season, die Hinterhofagentur from Munich will be responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. The collection will be shown in January in Düsseldorf and at the Who’s Next Paris. www.noirandbleu.com

NOIR ’N’ BLEU

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FASHION

TRANSFORMATION The latest technologies combine with purist design aesthetics to give AlphaTauri‘s looks a futuristic aura. The latest collection uses the principles of light absorption through ultra-matt fabrics that do not reflect, which makes the colors appear particularly rich. At the same time, flock prints create a camouflage effect, contrasting matt with shiny textures.

Protection is a top priority, with optimized thermal insulation, such as Taurobran, the brand‘s waterproof, breathable three-layer membrane.

Hydrobarrier is new: knitted styles with water-repellent properties for a dry feel.

Another focus is on padding, either made from Primaloft or real down, for vests, jackets, coats and parkas. Characteristic is the seamless 3D knit, made from technical performance yarns, pure cashmere or a merino-sorona blend with moisture-wicking properties. www.alphatauri.com

ALPHATAURI

„Our focus is on innovation and research.

We design stories and develop innovative technologies.“ Ahmet Mercan, CEO AlphaTauri

cs, theti s e a l n Clea f materia o : lots ation innov auri. aT Alph

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FASHION

CHIC ITALIANO

Eleg an chic ce, a a mo nd dern twist .

This promise comes at the right time: a women’s collection that is fashionable to a T, yet with plenty of timeless style. Seventy Venezia is top of the class in this discipline. 50 years of history bring a great deal of reliability and expertise, especially in ready-to-wear, which is often lacking in this price segment. As its new sales agency for Germany and Austria, Modeist presents the ready-to-wear collection with an even greater focus on its core competencies. Seventy Venezia meets supply chain challenges with a newly appointed production manager who ensures that creativity, know-how and expertise meet delivery reliability and dependability. “We are convinced that we are an ideal partner for stores with a lot of advisory expertise. This is our niche and we can cater to it with passion,” says Sales Manager Alessandro Sabatini.

SEVENTY VENEZIA

THE CAPOSPALLA COLLECTION AS THE CENTERPIECE OF WOMENSWEAR WITH ZEITGEIST: SEVENTY VENEZIA.

Whether a Scandinavian or southern-influenced brand portfolio, Seventy Venezia’s complete collection closes price gaps for its retail partners and creates a foundation for fashionable outfits.

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FASHION

DETAILS THAT EMPHASIZE PASSION AND LOVE FOR QUALITY.

CASUAL AND SMART

Casual and elegant, the styles are clearly and freshly positioned in the Casual, Dressed and Sport segments.

The collection reflects a perfect balance of modern designs, timeless elegance, luxurious materials and traditional craftsmanship. Innovative new and further developments are presented with elaborate equipment and finishes, such as the simple chukka boot made of Italian suede with a calfskin insert on the heel and rubber cup soles. Boots made of genuine leather with remaining fur, which has been printed with a vintage herringbone effect after the dyeing process, have a foam layer on the inside that promises maximum comfort and thermal insulation at the same time. The basketball-inspired calfskin sneaker with nineties influences and multi-layered design has asymmetric perforations on the front flap and a matte metallic woven label on the tongue as a small highlight. Dynamic sports styles with retro reminiscences of 1970s army trainers come with a wave-shaped design on the non-slip outsole. @florisvanbommel

FLORIS VAN BOMMEL

Any kind of mix ‘n’ match.

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FASHION

Sportalm’s collection is characterized by a variety of structures and haptics - always feminine and sporty.

KEY PIECES

Sporty freshness, feminine aura - this is what the new Emotion line from Sportalm stands for, with a pastel color palette of nude and rosé tones that turn into a fashion statement when combined with classic black. A playful print runs through the collection: sporty and casual in jersey and flowing viscose, complemented by trendy bouclés and metallic nylon fabrics. The result is a variety of feels and looks that never deny Sportalm’s DNA. The second color world focuses on shades of blue, from pastel blue to a strong indigo blue. The key pieces? They catch the eye, with metallic shades, lurex on denim and rhinestone elements on chunky knits for a slightly edgy character. The key element of the entire collection is the contrast between rough and delicate with clean to coarse textures.

This also applies to the knit wear, which presents exciting new structures, whether as chunky or fine knit. www.sportalm.at

SPORTALM

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FASHION

ECO DESIGN & CIRCULARITY With its dope-dye technology, the Spanish brand focuses on innovative textile dyeing: the dyeing process is completely eliminated.

Instead, the dye is mixed with the recycled polyester granulate during the spinning process. This reduces the use of chemicals and no water is used for dyeing.

To go with this, there are super-light and extra-softly padded crossbody, tote and bucket bags made from Ecoalf’s typical 100% recycled nylon and polyester. The Feroealf sneakers, which now have a Vibram sole made from 90 percent natural ingredients and are dyed with 100 percent natural dyes, are also lightweight. They offer the same grip and performance as conventional soles, while minimizing the use of fossil oils. In the minimalistically designed premium 1.0 line, the pieces are designed in such a way that they can be taken apart at the end of their life in order to be recycled by type. Even the zippers are biodegradable.

ECOALF

Dope Dye: The color is already added during yarn spinning - a benefit for the environment.

ECOALF 1.0 SETS HIGH STANDARDS.

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THE LONGVIEW

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THE LONGVIEW

“THE FRAGMENTATION OF OUR MARKET IS CRAZY – AND ESSENTIAL” In 2010, Renzo Braglia began to forge an Italian distribution agency into one of the leading pan-European agencies. With showrooms in Milan, Paris, London, Antwerp, Madrid, Copenhagen, and Düsseldorf, Brama Group is well positioned, but now the businessman from Modena is taking his business model to the next level.

With Seamless Commerce, he aims to make the network of Europe’s leading independent fashion stores accessible even to brands that are not distributed by Brama Group.

The advantage for buyers: Seamless Commerce assumes the financial and operational risk of buying from these brands, which are often just beginning to emerge. Why? “Because it should be fun to work in this industry again.”

Interview: Stephan Huber, Martina Müllner.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Cassandra Grisendi

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THE LONGVIEW

enzo, you have started an intensive process of reflection on the business relationships in our industry.

Renzo Braglia, founder of Brama Group and Seamless Commerce: I would like to go back a bit: I am passionate about the fact that you always have to see what is coming next – even if the status quo actually works well. I am not the only one who feels disruptive change coming. It is natural to question yourself and your way of doing business.

To what end?

To actively shape change. I am not willing to wait for change to come, I want to move forward.

When I started opening showrooms all over Europe in 2010 instead of just in Italy, everyone thought I was crazy. Today, it is clear that the vision was the right one.

How do you transition from feeling that something needs to change to acting, or at least being among the first to act?

With data. Together with our factoring partner, we started analysing how many brands the top stores in Italy organised in the so-called Camera Buyer do business with. The number is overwhelming. Not in the luxury and high-end designer segments, where the numbers are manageably large and anyone with experience in fashion can list these brands. The surprise came in the segment we call advanced contemporary: an impressive 931 brands. To clarify, 108 stores bought from 1,039 different brands and 931 of them do not fall into the luxury and high-end designer sector. This was a surprise for us and shows that there is a great deal of desire for the special, the unknown, and the aspiring. Buyers are hungry for these brands, which are the icing on the cake.

Yet those 931 brands are also the ones that make buying so time-consuming, are they not? After all, these brands need to be discovered, followed, contacted, and explored…

Yes and no. Discovering them is the part that buyers love, and it is so important that this part of the job can be enjoyed with passion. What happens when scouting is dominated by safety and numbers is reflected in many product ranges that have become boring. Novelty and excitement are the essence of buying.

Okay, but any buyer would love to spare themselves the background check on each of these brands, to find out whether you can buy this beautiful knit from a Peruvian manufacturer, get it through customs, and have it in the store in time.

One reason why agencies exist is that their name provides a guarantee of sorts.

Of course, and for all brands that exceed a certain level of sales, an agency is the right choice to expand their business in the long term. Yet there is one limit-

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ing factor that cannot be scaled arbitrarily: sales.

No agency in the world has the staff and space for 931 brands.

And even if there were, hypothetically speaking, an unlimited number of staff and space, there is still a limit to the number of brands that an independent buyer buys per agency.

Exactly, even if an agency does the best job in the world, no buyer spends more than two consecutive days in a showroom. Then, there are many psychological factors and very concrete arguments that justifiably say to a buyer: Well, now I have bought enough from this agency. I will go even further, actually. I am convinced that sales belong in the hands of the brand, especially when it comes to new brands. No one can tell their story more credibly, no one can portray the brand environment more convincingly. And sales management is not rocket science: How complicated is it to book a stand at the White or a showroom in the Marais?

Here comes the but…

(Laughs) Exactly! Brands at this stage know far too little about the market and its players. They often do not know their target customers, nor do they know which of the buyers to trust. They ask supposedly stupid questions: What is the name of your store?

What brands do you stock? Or they demand payment in advance from a solvent customer and thus step on the buyer’s toes even before they have been able to win him over.

In my ideal world, everyone does what they do best.

Stupid questions are vital for the survival of these brands.

Yes, but when it comes to fixing bugs, that is exactly what a lever means: That brands and retailers do not have to introduce themselves to each other at every trade fair stand or showroom, but that the brand can verify a trustworthy contact more quickly.

Okay, now we are reaching the exciting part.

No, it is actually super easy. As Brama Group, we have been collaborating with the best stores throughout Europe for many years – all 1,850 stores that matter. We know a great deal about them, can assess the risks, and give the green light for a business relationship based on data.

How much of this represents the banker in you? As a distributor with many US brands in your portfolio, you are used to planning for customs and currency risks in advance.

We have collected a significant volume of this data together with our factoring partner, and I think in

PENNANDINK-NY.COM

THE LONGVIEW

Brama Group’s Europe-wide network of showrooms will continue to be exclusively available to selected brands, while Seamless Commerce is open to any brand. The two business models deliberately have no points of intersection. “Sales are not infinitely scalable, I am a realist about that,” says Renzo Braglia.

today’s world there should be no discussion about the need for financial transparency. Risk inhibits bold purchasing, which is another bug we want to solve.

Because you assess the risk?

Because we put the money on the table. The brands basically sell their orders to us, receive their money immediately, and then we take care of the entire operational side: Delivery, customer service, complaints, and payment flow.

So, this interim financing is likely the source of your revenue?

Of course, Seamless Commerce is a business case for us, otherwise we would not be doing it. The three pillars are strategy, sales, and operations. Everyone can concentrate on their own competencies: brands on creativity and sales, we on strategy and operations, and the buyer on purchasing and product range design. Currently, everyone within this structure is overloaded with administrative and financial tasks, which kills the fun.

Novelty and excitement are the essence of buying.

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Bold question incoming. Do you think that our current – and partly only perceived – crisis in the fashion trade is based on the fact that no one is willing to burn their fingers on something new?

Our industry has been trying to turn fashion into a form of finance for a few years now, and that simply does not work. We desperately need to restore the fun element, especially when it comes to buying. It should not be difficult to decide on something that you can surprise your customers with.

There is no shortage of products on offer. You counted 931 independent brands in 108 Italian stores, which represents fertile soil for individuality. And new ones are coming every day…

Many brands are currently running through a filter.

That is what we do in our showrooms, essentially.

We only showcase what suits our style, appeals to our customers, and has European potential. Plenty of brands fail to make the cut. A manufacturer of loud, rhinestone-studded leather jackets will never find its way into the showrooms of Brama Group, because that is not our style. Yet who is to say that one of our retailers is not looking for exactly such a leather jacket? With Seamless Commerce, the stylistic judgments about brands fall away, which is a completely new experience for us too. Throughout my life, I have based many of my decisions on taste, inevitably because a showroom employee cannot sell items they

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THE LONGVIEW

do not back over a prolonged amount of time. Yet if we yield sales to the brand now, then you buy it from the guy who is passionate about his rhinestone-studded leather jackets, and he can explain exactly what makes them so special. Exceptional products need this first-hand enthusiasm.

Is this also a reaction to the already noticeable staff shortage in the showrooms, which will be even more drastic in the future?

That is a good question. Yes, I suspect it is getting harder to find and retain good people. Yet even if we had 100 excellent employees and 15,000 square meters at a Brama Group showroom, the business model is not scalable at this level. Agencies, even if they are European, as we are, have a limit to growth.

I am a realist.

Does this constitute a rejection of the agency model?

On the contrary. Would we have just opened our beautiful new showroom in Antwerp if we did not fully believe in this model? At a certain turnover, I am convinced that an agency can fuel the strategic growth of a brand. Joining an agency turns an idea into a business model, and if a brand wants to anchor itself permanently in the market, it needs the power of an agency.

How do you ensure that a brand does not make mistakes in the seasons before it is ready for an agency?

With strategic advice. In contrast to sales, this is something that can be scaled very well. When we have a brand in front of us, we can quickly tell in which stores it fits and which doors it does not even need to knock on. This first-hand knowledge accelerates so much. You start without sales errors that need to be corrected later. And you can start in several markets at once. Let’s take Spain. All of us in this group are deeply entrenched in independent retail, but if you are not, what do you actually know about the Spanish market?

We could not come up with much more than the three obvious names in Spain…

Exactly, but there are 150 great stores with which you can cover Spain solidly. Who would have thought? As a small brand, you do not have that on your radar.

Even more so as the town’s best-known stores may not be the best fit for a brand. Maybe the number two or three, which can be found in every city, may even be a better strategic fit.

Correct. These are decisions that the brand can make much faster. And above all: Uninfluenced by sensitivities.

Because an agency always has a history with every client?

Of course, you try to free yourself from such things as much as possible, but we are all humans and the chemistry between some is right, between others not 130 style in progress

so much. Through Seamless Commerce, the brand has a chance to conduct its own chemistry check with a retailer.

Now we have to play through the process in concrete terms. A brand that desires to join the platform and buys the ticket to this cosmos pays… …an amount that is lower than in the classic distributor model, because the percentage points for sales are omitted. For this amount, we provide strategic advice, contacts, and secure the entire financing of the goods. As soon as production is completed, the brand receives its money. This solves many problems on the brand side. After all, in the current pecking order, it is precisely the small labels that are paid last, while they, unlike the big brands, are the first to pay their suppliers and producers. This long interim financing period causes many brands to stumble, and the bad thing is that success increases this problem, because it requires even more pre-financing.

We tried to turn fashion into a form of finance, but that did not work.

Understood. Let’s look at the other side. I am a buyer strolling through the White trade show in Milan… …and you discover the Seamless Commerce logo at the stand of an exciting Peruvian brand and know that, three minutes later, you can deposit your order in a system that you already know and that already knows you.

It is a real game changer, especially since there will probably be more opportunities to get to know the new brands on the platform than just at trade shows.

Exactly, we regularly inform our clients about new entries on the platform, and, at the same time, the brands receive individually selected recommendations as to which retailers they should preferably contact. In this way, they can actively approach the stores.

Are you attacking the business model of trade fairs?

The way I know our industry so far, very few buyers want to miss out on physically discovering a brand somewhere. The purely virtual scouting of brands has not proven itself, even during the pandemic. It is a lesson buyers and brands have learned. But I would like to use the answer to this question to clarify once again: It is not about making the buyers’ focus smaller, the opposite is the case. The fragmentation of our market is crazy, but essential! We need all these 931 brands in order to meet the desire for individuality of the buyers and, above all, of the end customers.

THE LONGVIEW

What exactly is the difference to platforms like Joor, which, in case of doubt, would also claim that they always invite you to discover exciting brands.

Our lower complexity. Buyers do not have to study terms and conditions, delivery conditions, and payment terms separately for each brand. The terms and conditions of Seamless Commerce apply. This also simplifies subsequent processes like re-ordering and exchange. There are no longer 931 different contracts, but just the one – concluded with a business partner you already know.

How do you envision the future interaction between retailers, agencies, and brands?

In my ideal world, everyone does what they do best. Retailers are not prevented from making bold decisions by as much administrative work as they are tied up in today, an agency is involved when its huge effort can pay off, and a new brand does not need a CFO to enter the market. All of this brings me back to the starting point of my reflections: I have been racking my brains for a long time about how lightness and fun can return to our business. This is our answer.

SEAMLESS COMMERCE

In his many years of experience in the industry, Renzo Braglia has always understood how to question existing structures and think one step ahead.

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Buyer-to-brand-to-buyer. Renzo Braglia, owner of pan-European agency network Brama Group, has turned this interaction into a new business formula. Seamless Commerce makes the data of Europe’s “rockstar buyers” accessible to participating brands. As part of a strategic consultation, the right stores are matched with the right concepts, while the sales activities are placed in the hands of the brand. Whether the label invites buyers to trade fairs or showrooms, visits retailers, or addresses them in other creative ways is up to themselves. The theory is that nobody knows more about the brand, how to stage it, and how to narrate it than its creators. The Seamless Commerce platform offers buyers peace of mind, as delivery, invoicing, returns, and service are completely transferred to the tried and tested Brama Group structures in Modena. The brand receives its money for the produced goods immediately and is thus freed from many operational processes, allowing to shift the focus to creation, sales, and brand building.

HERRLICHER WÜNSCHT EIN

GESUNDES ZUFRIEDENES

BESCHEIDENES

2024

FASHION

SPORTY ELEGANCE

New additions to Raffaello Rossi’s balanced style mix include straight-leg and classic cigarette shapes. There are also casually elegant wide-leg silhouettes in sporty outer fabrics as well as sporty shapes in elegant and innovative flannel looks or velvety soft and flowing wide corduroy. Colored denim styles come in a new O-shape silhouette with turned side seams. Classic jogging pants continue to be represented with slight updates. Bright colors such as violet and burnt red are complemented by neutral tones of stone, caramel and black. Graphic multicolor prints and classic two-tones come in bi-stretch comfort fabrics. Eye catchers are the new sporty-elegant mini piqué and discreetly embellished slim denim styles. Winter pastels are finding their way onto elegant flannel looks with delicate gold foil or subtle pinstripes. The Punto di Roma range features classic cigarette, sporty wide-leg and light O-shapes together with authentic colored denim styles. raffaello-rossi.com

RAFFAELLO ROSSI

le & Purp red x rals neut

Raffaello Rossi combines a touch of the occasion with comfortable everyday styles.

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FASHION

STRICTLY MADE WITH LOVE IN GERMANY.

Sassenbach: The unique position in design is now followed by an upgrade in visual language and image.

WEARABLE EMPOWERMENT Do clothes have energy? Oh yes!

“When I wear your clothes, I feel beautiful and confident, customers tell me,” smiles Michaela Sassenbach. The amazing thing: nothing about the collection is gimmicky.

The commitment to reduction has always been part of the line, which is based on a high-quality Italian jersey that is used in various fastnesses. Now the designer is taking new liberties: prints, embossing and perforation in jersey as well as complementing voluminous knitwear and lightweight denim. A relaunch? “No, an evolution,” says the designer. She tries on every model she creates herself to feel the perfect fit. In the future, Michaela Sassenbach is toying with the idea of launching in Paris. “We are proud of our network of high-quality retailers in D-A-CH. Now we’re getting ready for the next step.”

SASSENBACH

So much experience, from theater costumes to tailor-made suits: Michaela Sassenbach.

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STAY WILD STAY FREE.

OFF INTO THE WOODS Kicking things off with a fashion show has become a Save the Duck tradition. Its The Forest collection invites customers to explore the forest and discover its secrets and colors. The color palette ranges from neutral tones to grey and brown to shades of green and blue. The vibrant color accents in this color scheme represent the people who discover the forest for themselves. The collection focuses on respect for nature and animals. The jackets bear messages such as We All Bear Responsibility and Stay Wild Stay Free. The Milan-based brand underlines its commitment to sustainable fashion by continuously increasing the proportion of recycled materials. The decision to introduce only recycled fabrics while offering recycling options for established materials is intended to minimize environmental impact and conserve natural resources. The brand is taking further steps towards a total look by expanding its Smartleisure collection with a wide selection of sweatshirts, hoodies, blazers and pants, including chinos and cargo pants in various lengths. www.savetheduck.com

SAVE THE DUCK

Impressions from the fashion show in Milan.

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FASHION

COLORS FROM NATURE “Hand-dyed and with marbled effects, they overlay delicate, fine cashmere fabrics.”

Nature and art are the inspiration: neutral tones such as ivory, oat and ice merge skillfully with deep, rich colors such as must, forest and river. The women’s collection is characterized by enveloping, soft and deconstructed volumes. Hand-dyed and with marbled effects, they overlay delicate, fine cashmere fabrics. This artful dyeing not only gives the pieces a unique aesthetic, but also emphasizes the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The integration of silver and bronze light accents, whether through skillful application or subtle scratching, adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to the sweaters and fabrics. The pieces in stretch cashmere silk, hand-painted with a brush or airbrush, are particularly noteworthy for their reduced volume, lightness and three-dimensional structure. www.avant-toi.it

AVANT TOI

Finis brus hing with hstro airbr kes and ushe s

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UNADULTERATED NATURALNESS The label is named after an island in the Indian Ocean.

Sustainability is a key aspect of the new complete look line from Italy. It will be on show at Pitti Uomo. Die Hinterhofagentur is responsible for sales in the D-A-CH region. For the first time, a new molecular technique is being used to dye textiles in one piece and achieve the typical washedout effect. Piece-dyed items have a long tradition in Italy and stand for heritage and casualness. This new method is revolutionary, making minimum quantities for production a thing of the past. Light fastness is increased and irregularities, which always occur with piece-dyed items, are significantly reduced.

This patented technology saves 95% of water and 92% of electricity. The products are also completely salt-free.

Andrea Galuzzo, owner of the brand, is enthusiastic about the new possibilities offered by this technology. For fall/ winter 2024/25, the collection includes knitwear, sweats, jerseys, pants, jackets and vests with a 3-cal. @keeling.io

KEELING

Saves water & electricity when dyeing.

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY MOLECULAR TECHNOLOGY.

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FASHION

Fresh, extroverted: Woodpecker is distributed throughout Europe by David Galenziok via the Rebell Island Fashion Distribution Company.

LOUD AND FUNKY

Will, why does the world need a new jacket brand?

Will Poho, founder Woodpecker: Because we are future-oriented, while most outerwear brands insist on their heritage. The future is in front of us, our mindset is playful and optimistic. We use many innovative fabrics in color and don’t forget about the environment.

Our certified cruelty-free vegan filling material is more sustainable and better than down, thanks to new technologies.

How do you want to inspire the European market?

With top quality and top value for money. Last but not least, with fashion that is a little louder, simply fresh and funky.

Which is a counterpoint to Silent Luxury.

We are a premium outerwear brand, also. But a good product is not enough, we want to tell a story. For example on our labels, with funny cartoons! Anyone who wants to see them reaches inside the jacket and is immediately won over by the touch and feel. www.woodpeckercoats.com www.rebellisland.com

WOODPECKER

After M Knu oose Woo ckles, d Will P pecker is oho’ proje s new ct.

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WANT IT

ALTERNATIVE LUXURY

COLVILLE

What happens when two great fashion experts like Molly Molloy (designer at Marni and La DoubleJ, among others) and Lucinda Chambers (25-year fashion director of British Vogue) come together? A fashion label for women with that particular added touch. After working together at Marni, the founders wanted to bring an alternative to the market. Colville is characterized by handmade details, elaborate cuts and a variety of materials. It relies on collaborations with artisans. “Our pieces reflect the individuality of the wearer,” say their makers.

Colville values sustainability and longevity. www.colvilleofficial.com, @colville_official

PUT YOUR HAT ON

CASHIMAR

KYIV-BORN

LESSLESS

Founded in Los Angeles in 2019, LessLess is inspired by old Hollywood glamor. From silk slip dresses to PJ overshirts, the brand, fitting with its image, has already been worn by celebrities such as Pierce Brosnan, Kendall Jenner, Barbara Strum and Veronika Heilbrunner. In 2023, the unisex line made its debut at Pitti Uomo. In department stores such as Tsum and The Icon as well as in its own e-commerce, the subtle luxury is available at retail prices between 95 and 650 Euros, including a bridal line and a made-tomeasure line. The Ukrainian founders Alya and Tim Gonta manufacture in Kyiv despite the war, in solidarity with their homeland.

Tim has been fighting in the Ukrainian army since the beginning of the Russian invasion. www.lesslessrobes.com

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Gabi Heininger and Giorgia Both have been at the helm of Cashimar, their passion project, since 2019. Gabi has worked as an agent for many brands for many years, Giorgia as a production manager in Italy.

The retail prices of the accessories start at 100 Euros for Alpaca and 130 Euros for Cariaggi Cashmere, made in Italy. Cashmere beanies are available in five styles in 35 colors and alpaca beanies in three styles in 23 colors. For the summer, there is a small lightweight collection and a range of cotton bucket hats. Customers include Lodenfrey, Daniels, Ludwig Beck, Globus, Breuninger, Modehaus Carl Fischer, Schlösser and Strolz. www.cashimar.com, @cashi.mar

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HIDDEN GEMS

BOLDRINI SELLERIA

Plant-tanned leather is at the heart of the brand, which has been around since 1955. The little-known brand has, however, created two real fan markets outside Italy. In Japan and the USA, people appreciate the long-standing tradition of craftsmanship and the quality of the bags, their attention to detail and perfection. With a retail price of 160 to 500 Euros, the bag brand covers a price range that is currently in high demand again - after all, many traditional and affordable accessory brands have migrated to higher segments. The family business is currently still managing its D-A-CH distribution itself. www.boldriniselleria.com, @boldrini_selleria

PERFORMANCE IS KEY

UNITY

UNIQUE BRACELETS

PIG & HEN

Pig & Hen was founded by two friends in Amsterdam in 2013. The focus is on bracelets for men and women, with retail prices ranging from 59 to 129 Euros. Deliveries are made from stock in the Netherlands via NOS and B2B online tools. In addition to the popular cuff bracelets that are handmade in Amsterdam or nautical bracelets made from sailcloth with shekel clasps, there is a wide range of models made from pearls or with pendants such as small locks or with elongated engraved tablets. Compact display stands are available for easy presentation. Lagom Fashion Agency is responsible for distribution in Germany and Austria. The collection can be seen at Supreme. www.pigandhen.de

“Your Best Everyday Performance” is not just a slogan; it is Unity’s mission. Each garment promises top performance throughout the entire production chain. With Italian design inspired by architecture and automotive, Unity emphasizes research, aesthetics and sustainability.

Freedom of movement is essential, and the technical fabrics protect against all weather conditions. Lightness and outstanding performance merge in every detail.

Unity appeals to modern men and women who want to combine elegance with comfort and functionality with style. Currently available in 600 stores worldwide. unityoriginal.com, @unityoriginal_

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WANT IT

ON POINT

SHAFT JEANS

A LITTLE BOHO

SALTWATER LUXE

In the mood for a trip? Then the Saltwater Luxe collection is perfect. With flowing fabrics and colorful prints, it’s a feel-good collection, priced in the premium range or as an entry point for luxury stores.

Carsten Strauß, founder of sales agency Collective Fashion Agency, recommends: “Many pieces have a typical L.A. vibe, which regardless of other trends, has many loyal fans.” Self-confident mixes make up the brand’s style. “Beach style, laidback, effortless.” Positioned in stores such as Greetings, Beo or Längengrad. www.saltwaterluxe.com, @saltwaterluxe

In 2004, the historic denim brand from Montpellier was taken over

by Francesca Bacci. In 2015, her daughter Letizia Palchetti Tosi joined the company and took over designing. Shortly afterwards, her brother Lorenzo joined the company and is now responsible for the finances. The young generation led to a strong internationalization of the label. Since 2022, the collection has been distributed by Agentur Rolf Griesinger in Germany and Austria: “The collection includes pants and blazers with prices ranging from 85 to 135 Euros in wholesale prices and focuses on outstanding quality made in Italy, innovative styles and perfect fits,” says Griesinger, who currently serves 45 customers with his agency. www.shaftjeans.it, @shaftjeans

CASHMERE, THE MODERN WAY

LEAP CONCEPT

The visuals make you want to get to know the brand Leap Concept better. Modern silhouettes, bralettes or bodysuits made of cashmere, delicate fine knits with fashionable long sleeves. Fitting with a contemporary aesthetic, as cultivated in stores such as Super, Rey, La Bottega or About Alexa. Carsten Strauß and his Collective Fashion Agency are responsible for the distribution of the sustainable Dutch knitwear brand.

“The many repeat orders we receive speak for themselves.” Leap Concept can be purchased internationally via Faire. www.leapconceptstore.com, @leap_concept

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WANT IT

ROMANTIC

AMOTEA

Founded in 2010 by Diletta Amodei, the label is part of the Nuova Scuola of female creatives from Rome. Amotea is the crasis of the first three letters of her surname and Tea, the name she would have given her daughter - she has three boys. The label embodies timeless elegance and style and is imbued with a romanticism that manifests itself in flowing silhouettes and ethereal beauty: clean lines, carefully selected materials and an attention to detail. The creations range from evening dresses to everyday looks in understated shades. Sustainability and social responsibility are very important to Amodei - everything is responsibly made in Italy. www.amotea.com, @amotea.thelabel

YOUNG AND COLORFUL

GAVA

A brand-new creative project from Gavazzeni, a specialist in accessories that combines traditional Italian craftsmanship with an innovative approach and fresh design.

The collections are characterized by a dynamic, inclusive, functional and ethical vision in design. Aimed at youth subcultures with a strong focus on creativity and innovation, Gava aims to address the needs and values of these generations in a unique way. In addition to the iconic Vitto bag, which is relaunched every season, there is a variety of colorful bags and small accessories made exclusively in Italy from the best leathers. www.gavamilano.com, @gavamilano

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SINGING IN THE RAIN

H2O FAGERHOLT

It all started with a collaboration between the sports brand H2O and Julie and Bex Fagerholt. Mother and daughter designed an icon: a raincoat that returns in variations every season and gives the brand visibility and recognition. This combination has since resulted in a trendy complete look that includes everything from wide denim with lots of pockets - an absolute influencer favorite - to bodysuits, PJ looks, accessories and coats. Since summer 2023, the management of H2O Fagerholt has been strengthened for its global presence.

Online leaders such as Anita Hass and retailers such as Genny from the Blog, No Regrets and People’s Place are among the brand’s German retailers. www.h2ofagerholt.com

www.theholygoat.com

Supreme Düsseldorf 26.01. – 29.01.2024 Prisco Haus München 08.02. – 13.02.2024 Claudia Kröhnert claudia@theholygoat.com

WANT IT

COMPLETE PACKAGE

OOFWEAR

“What do retailers particularly like about Oofwear? The innovative style of the outerwear, which combines femininity with function and is timeless and wearable,” says Michael Schulz, who sells the contemporary collection in Germany and Austria with his agency SchulzAco. Eye-catchers are not only the casual cuts, but also the unusual mix of colors and materials.

Finally, retail prices between 280 and 400 Euros, calculated at 2.8, speak in favor of the collection. Oofwear’s complete package has already won over customers such as Appelrath, Otto Graf and Dantendorfer, as well as smaller boutiques such as Juist Ana and No59 in Cologne. www.oofwear.com

SOFT STREET STYLE

LIV BERGEN

Feminine jersey, natural nonchalance: “I like the flattering coolness and the soft, feel-good materials,” says Bettina Groeger from Agentur Knallgrau, which has newly acquired the collection for southern Germany and Austria. What else is characteristic? The street style with vintage prints and casual used washes, as well as the soft to vibrant colors of the collection. The company behind Liv Bergen comes from Germany and has its production facilities in Portugal. Sweatshirts cost 99 to 219 Euros in the sales price, T-shirts 69 to 99 Euros and jackets 299 to 499 Euros, with a mark-up of 2.7 to 2.8. www.livbergen.de

SLOW BAG

AMELI ZURICH

Bags can’t change the world. But the women who carry them can, Christina Stahl is convinced. She founded Ameli Zurich with her husband Charly in 2020. The handbags combine timeless, minimalist design and elegance with high functionality. Instead of chasing trends, existing models are optimized. Development takes place in Switzerland and production is carried out exclusively in a small Italian family business using materials from selected producers. The cost estimate is between 2.0 and 3.0, and the bags are priced at around 80 to 195 Euros. They are currently sold online via their own website. www.ameli-zurich.com, @ameli.zurich 146 style in progress

CUTE STUFF DAWNxDARE FLOOR LIV BERGEN NOUMENO SHADES SHIRTAPORTER TOMORROW WUTH

Showroom München ganzjährig Frankfurter Ring 193a D-80807 München

Showroom Düsseldorf temporär Glockenstrasse 16 D-40476 Düsseldorf

KNALLGRAU/Agentur für Mode / Bettina Groeger & Harry Heinrich GbR www.knallgrau-agentur.de / office@knallgrau-agentur.de / +49 89 62819414

NEW HORIZONS

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EW Creativity, curiosity and courage - this is the field of action in which new business ideas emerge that are capable of shifting horizons. Driven by curiosity, nourished by creativity, implemented with a great deal of courage, this formula can inspire one-woman shows as well as multinational companies. Whether in retail, wholesale or on the brand side, new approaches are more than a response to change - they are actively shaping transformation.

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“WE SHOULD HAVE THE CONFIDENCE TO DETACH OURSELVES FROM BRANDS THAT NO LONGER VALUE WHOLESALE ANYWAY.” 2,600 Euros for a jacket, or 1,400 Euros for a pair of trousers?

Is the luxury segment now going completely off the rails? Until now, premium retailers also benefitted from first lines as top of the range items. Martina Müllner and Nicoletta Schaper discuss the idea that the future lies elsewhere with Kerstin Görling of Hayashi in Frankfurt, Monica Marando of MMB Consulting, Petra Fischer of Modehaus Fischer in Singen and Constance and Winni Klenk of Abseits in Stuttgart. Their strategy?

An exciting product range, plenty of personality, and their own standing.

Text: Martina Müllner, Nicoletta Schaper.

Illustration: Christina Mühlhöfer @Caroline Seidler

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ntil now, even in the multi-brand business, it was possible to earn good money with first lines. Yet it seems as if prices no longer have a ceiling.

Petra Fischer, owner of Modehaus Fischer: Yes, which is why I am gradually phasing out first lines in our stores. The price increases of the last two or three years were so enormous that customers simply cannot – and will not – keep up.

While a wallet by brand xy used to cost 399 Euros, it now costs 950 Euros despite the style not changing much. There is no justification for this increase, and customers have become too price-sensitive, irrespective of their income.

In addition, the mark-up of first lines is so low, between 2.2 and 2.6, that we no longer earn any money with them. Not to mention the condition that we must also stock items from the clothing collection that we know will be difficult or impossible to sell if we want to order a bag from a particular high-fashion brand. All of us here work in the individual multi-brand business, with a large percentage of regular customers. Anyone who spends a great deal of time in the store knows what each customer desires. That makes it particularly challenging when you can no longer order what you want.

Winni Klenk, owner of Abseits: I have been a Dsquared customer for 26 years, a brand whose prices have shot up by between 25 to 30 percent in recent seasons. I have to accept that, as the brand is still a mainstay. A customer who once bought the trousers for 500 Euros will, of course, ask us why they should now pay 800 Euros. The choice is either to get a better price at my own expense or to remain stuck with the trousers. As a result, I order 30 percent less and increasingly rely on brands that produce a style exclusively for us.

Kerstin Görling, owner of Hayashi: Fortunately, I stock very few first lines, more contemporary brands. Nevertheless, a jacket

by Nili Lotan can cost up to 1,900 Euros and if I were to tell the customer that this is not a luxury, they would certainly give me a piece of their mind. Customers are perhaps even more price-sensitive when it comes to contemporary brands, as they assume that these labels are less expensive than their luxury counterparts.

Yet contemporary brands are now just as expensive. This results in a significantly lower customer frequency. The customers who visit do so purposefully and are prepared to pay such prices.

What can be done, and when is your personal limit overstepped?

Kerstin Görling: I have reached the point where I am no longer prepared to play the game of increasingly expensive prices while

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margins are shrinking at the same time. I can live with 2.6, but collections offering 2.4 are delisted. Why would I even consider stocking any brands below that? After all, the price war out there means that items are devalued early in the season. I think it is raging so fiercely at the moment because most people have bought far too optimistically.

How do you compensate for this in your product range?

Kerstin Görling: By offering fashionable styles from my own cashmere label, for example, to lift my overall margin again. In fact, I have realised that it is now essential to stock collections that do not feature online.

Winni Klenk: Absolutely! For example, I recently discovered a shirtmaker in Florence who only sells his men’s shirts in Japan and, beyond that, practically exclusively to me. The shirts are super popular! Almost all our customers are regulars. They are losing interest in the brands, but they are increasingly attracted by our looks. In other words, we are moving away from the brand concept.

“As retailers, we have to work twice as hard to find new products for our customers. We have to be highly attentive, ask around a great deal, and then filter out what suits our own business.

Individuality is the flavour of the day.”

Petra Fischer, Modehaus Fischer in Singen and Constance

Monica, that is also your approach with MMB Consulting: to offer retailers collections that are unique.

Monica Marando, owner of MMB Consulting: Yes, the decision to represent the extraordinary was a fundamental choice for me, and I have always distanced myself somewhat from the classic sales agency concept. It is of great importance to me to discover and provide products that are otherwise not available on the market. I am all about individuality, and for me individuality is closely linked to quality of life. The customer desires precisely what others do not have! Sure, unearthing such unique items means more work, and it definitely requires more than simple Instagram research. Anyone who steps into a store like Fischer, Abseits, or Hayashi is in search of that special something that Petra, Winni, and Kerstin have located for them in Milan or Paris.

High prices and early sales have an immensely damaging effect. I can remember sitting in the 25-degree sun in September

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when the first fashion retailers had already reduced their winter goods by 25 percent.

Yet the feeling you get in many cases is that the RRP was merely calculated to be crossed out in red…

Kerstin Görling: Yes, you really wonder whether the regular prices were not calculated too high from the outset.

What does the end customer think? Do they debate the expensive piece, or do they leave the shop without saying a word never to return?

Kerstin Görling: They usually leave without the opportunity to initiate a conversation, which is, of course, a real shame, but sometimes I myself would not know how to justify the high price. However, I do not wish to solely criticise this development, as it brings me customers who buy anyway because they consider the item to be very special and of the corresponding quality. In short: we win some, we lose some. We are experiencing a shift. This means I have to adapt my business concept, because if I have different customers, I need a different personnel structure.

Exciting, what does your concept entail?

Kerstin Görling: I am still in the development phase. In future, I may have fewer full-time employees in the store and invest more in staff who establish an even more personal relationship with customers, arrange private shopping appointments, and curate a special selection for them.

The great advantage of multi-brand stores still lies in their exceptional welcoming culture. Lower customer frequency is a reality, as are general price increases. Can this welcoming culture offset this?

Winni Klenk: With a bit of luck, yes. You used to have ten receipts. Now you have four, which hopefully amount to as much as the previous ten. Yet the fact remains that the reductions in

“Brands keep asking me how they can help, and all I can say is: protect your brand. Unfortunately, very few succeed in doing that.”

Kerstin Görling, owner of Hayashi in Frankfurt

the market are lethal. Many retailers grant discounts for any nonsensical occasion and even start with 30 percent. This affects everyone, but especially us individual stores who pay for their goods and cannot return them like major retailers do.

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Kerstin Görling: I have reached the point where I am no longer prepared to put up with everything. I recently trialled a French first line featuring a new designer on the usual payment terms. By the third week, the brand had already started absurd discount campaigns, which meant that I was no longer able to sell any of the collection at regular prices in the store. I cancelled my order and refused to pay. I have nothing to lose in such situations.

Nevertheless, I find these working conditions utterly preposterous. Our strength should be focused on attracting new customers rather than ensuring that brands keep their prices stable. Brands keep asking me how they can help, and all I can say is: Protect your brand.

“Loyalty is a very important asset in our profession and something that everyone should learn.

Blackmail has never made sense as a sales strategy.”

Monica Marando, owner of MMB Consulting

Unfortunately, very few succeed in doing that.

By the way, Totême, a collection that I have stocked since day one and that you never see on sale, does that brilliantly. If anything, they organise their own sale at the end of the season and communicate it clearly, which is fine by me. This proves that brands can definitely regulate sales.

Winni Klenk: We firmly disassociate ourselves from initiatives such as Black Friday. We also communicate this very clearly to our customers. We prefer to concede a small percentage for an item, thus returning the trust our customers place in us. In fact, I recently had an amusing experience involving a customer who asked for a discount on a first line item because it was already available at a reduced price online. We offered an additional five Euros discount per item. That may have been a bit cheeky on our part, but the customer agreed.

It is such an absurd situation to be in! Perhaps we need to remind people of what it means to run a retail shop in the city center. We provide much more than an online shop and this, as well as our service, deserves appreciation.

Petra Fischer: Modehaus Fischer looks back on 135 years of history. Close customer relationships are the be-all and end-all, which we now maintain via WhatsApp, phone calls, and writing post cards. As a team, we hold meetings every month and discuss, for example, which customer might like the new trousers that have arrived. Then we write to them, and they usually follow up on it. Others visit us because they are looking for something special like an evening dress. With the help of our longstanding employees, this approach is very effective!

That said, recruiting new employees is all the more difficult because young people tend to

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think very differently. I can understand that, because our job requires great passion for a business in which you are sometimes required to work seven days a week.

Winni Klenk: I recently read an interesting book about a businessman who fervently tried to increase sales with new customers. Yet the author illustrated that this is precisely the wrong approach. Focusing more intensively on existing customers is the correct course of

“Almost all our customers are regulars. They are losing interest in the brands, but they keep coming because they want our looks. In other words, we are moving away from the brand concept.”

Winni Klenk – owner of Abseits in Stuttgart

action. I wholeheartedly agree. There are days when no more than ten or 15 people visit the store. If I send a WhatsApp to a regular customer informing her that a skirt by her favorite brand has arrived, she is delighted that I thought of her and comes to try on the skirt, and perhaps a blouse to go with it. Maybe she buys the whole look, and we have a lot of fun in the process. We all need those positive experiences! The next day I really enjoy being in the store again. I might even forget how annoyed I am about yet another complete pre-collection being delivered a month too early, even though the deal was to deliver it next month in stages.

I simply do not have enough room to display it all at once.

Kerstin Görling: Yes, and then you are expected to transfer 50,000 Euros within 30 days, even though it was agreed otherwise. I refuse to pay in advance on principle. I would rather cancel the order. I no longer need so many large brands! The idea is to turn your own store into a brand. With a self-assurance that says we will no longer be bullied.

Monica, suppose one of your brands asks for ten or 20 percent more order volume next season. How much diplomacy is required to convey this to the retailer?

Monica Marando: I have never allowed my companies to dictate such things. I have always been very clear about this, which has not always endeared me to people. Yet everyone – whether it is the brand, me as a consultant, or the retailer – has to do their job, has their responsibilities, and their expertise. My motivation is to curate a selection for retailers that makes sense for all involved. My customers 156 style in progress

precisely appreciate that. They feel comfortable working with me and know that they can rely on my honesty. They also appreciate the fact that I never point a finger at them for not achieving the desired turnover. Loyalty is a very important asset in our profession and something that everyone should learn – both newcomers and those who have been in the job for a long time. Blackmail has never made sense as a sales strategy.

Petra Fischer: I would not be overly bothered if someone told me that they would like me to order ten or 20 percent more – as long as I am allowed to choose what I know I can sell. The fact that I often cannot choose from first lines simply feels outdated to me. I doubt our business would be in its fourth generation today if I told a customer that they could only buy the trousers if they also bought the blouse.

The circumstances have become even more challenging. Why do you still enjoy your job?

Petra Fischer: Our job still produces some wonderful moments, such as when we explore showrooms with an open mind and open eyes and perhaps even discover an exciting new collection that nobody has heard of in a small hotel room. I love it when I can surprise and inspire a customer with a bag hand-woven in Africa, for example. I also enjoy the freedom to experiment. You can only create desire for certain products by being brave and taking a risk.

Otherwise every store in the world would look the same. Rhapsodising about it makes me realise that we should all have more confidence to detach ourselves from brands that no longer value us anyway.

Winni Klenk: I feel the same way. I utilise my freedom to integrate something new and special into the product range and make room for it by dropping a brand that may have become too generic. My happiest moments? I just welcomed a customer who bought everything I suggested and who I know will come back because they trust me and my style. Even after 40 years of Abseits, I still really enjoy such experiences, and it is also so much more satisfying for the customer than online shopping.

That is why I am convinced that the great era of multi-label stores is yet to come.

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Vertrieb DE & AT MODEist GmbH +49 - 151 54 73 28 67 info@b-kleidung.com www.modeist.com modeist_ Vertrieb CH

Modeagentur Zirlewagen +41 -796 31 17 18 nathalie@zirlewagen.ch www.zirlewagen.ch zirlewagen

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Ann Berry plays by her own rules and, when in doubt, prefers to trust her instincts rather than data.

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ANN BERRY

THE PHYSICAL STORE IS LIKE A LIVE CONCERT When Ann Berry was told that as a woman in the private equity business she should wear short hair and definitely not be funny, she simply left the room. Later she swapped billion-dollar deals for hands-on CEO positions and became a business insider with an instinct for bold decisions, as well as a markets commentator on live TV and a highly recommended keynote speaker. After more than 15 years on Wall Street, including eleven years at Goldman Sachs, Ann Berry set up her own business, Threadneedle, in 2021. Here, she invests not only capital, but also her know-how, network and expertise.

In an interview with Stephan Huber, Ann Berry talks about this holistic approach and creativity as a universal source. She explains the three most important future trends for retail.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Ann Berry

As a woman, you are active and successful in areas that still have a very male connotation, such as investment and future technologies. Are you part of the changing times or is this not relevant for you?

Ann Berry, founder Threadneedle: When I started my career in London in the early 2000s, nobody talked about gender in the workplace or equal opportunities.

It wasn’t until later, in the US, that I heard a lot of conversations about it and became conscious that I was the only woman in my office. Early in my career, I was nominated to participate in a program for women leaders in finance. And I’ll always remember these well-intentioned corporate trainers coming in and dropping off their PowerPoint slides that said, “Our advice for women in leadership positions is to not have long hair, wear nothing but black pantsuits, and NEVER EVER be funny at work.” They showed us some data to back up this advice, and empirically they weren’t wrong about the easiest path to success – I had seen that myself. But I ignored it anyway as it isn’t who I am, especially when it comes to humor. Laughter makes the world go round!

In my opinion, data is nothing if you are not able to ask the right questions.

And it’s also nothing if you’re not able to authentically use that data. I will always rely on my instinct for authenticity because it is more powerful than what data may dictate in a vacuum. But coming back to your point, in the finance industries, I assume I can name every single woman who is doing private equity deals with billions of dollars. Less than 3 percent of the big dealmakers are female. And we’ve got to wait for the next generation to change that.

I see another significant shift in your industry, away from scaling businesses at all costs with a successful exit as the main goal, to the premise of more

sustainable models. How do you experience this? Am I maybe too romantic?

If you ask me if scaling up by all means has become an outdated way of working, I would say yes – but not for the reason you’re pointing to, which is passion for sustainability. That’s where you’re being romantic. Because there are still too many examples where consumers are voting with their spending and most of it is still not going towards products or companies that champion sustainability. This is changing, but slowly and this is a very complex issue.

From a financial market perspective, in 2023 we have seen a lot of investors and businesses in many industries lose money because they focused on revenue at all costs and not on scaling profitably. A shift is actually taking place that directly affects companies that want to go public. For the first time in years, they need to show their path to profitability. That will probably change again if interest rates come back down. But for right now, the pure cold, hard math says scaling top line by all means is not acceptable as a strategy. That’s on the business side.

And then there is the perhaps even more interesting question: are longer-term goals such as people’s wellbeing or environmental sustainability really becoming priorities for businesses? Priorities in the sense of measurable success. I am confident we are heading in that direction - I think overall we are, but not on a linear path. Shein is a clear example of where the money is not following this cause yet: Gen Z, the younger consumers, care the most about sustainability and the climate. But they are also the largest customer group of this fast-fashion retailer who is not even remotely focused on sustainability.

Is there an idealized view of GenZ? In terms of consumer behavior, definitely.

Caroline Brown, formerly CEO at Donna Karan International and at Closed Loop Partners stated in an interview with me in 2021: “Capital is the lifeblood of change.” Would you agree to that?

I would say creativity is the heart that keeps the lifeblood circulating. And I am not speaking about creativity only in the classic artistic sense. Also, in terms of pioneering innovation, finding the path towards the future perhaps takes using untried or nontraditional ways to get there.

Creativity is the vision that forces change. And that ties into the question: what does it mean to deliver a hybrid operating-capital solution to a business like I do with Threadneedle? I do not believe that capital alone solves problems or adds value to companies when it’s in a vacuum. It’s a tool. And that’s what I bring in with my company. I’m not going to invest, just to invest.

I’m only going to do it when I can add something, whether it’s creativity, whether it’s my network or style in progress 159

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“OMNICHANNEL SHOPPING IS DEVELOPING INTO OMNI-SENSORY SHOPPING.”

ideas - and then I actually go and help the businesses I support by executing on the things they want to do when they get the capital. You can have all the capital in the world, but if you don’t have the vision and the creativity driving how to spend it, it’s just going to be sitting around.

Creativity is often classified as a cost factor... on the spreadsheets…

Historically, financial people have defined creativity in a limited way, meaning activities like spending on advertising or marketing campaigns. Now creativity means being open minded – to trying new products or new ways of doing things. I have spent most of my career in large and very mature companies such as industrial and consumer goods companies. More recently, my focus has been on smaller, younger, hungry and innovative technology companies. And it always fascinates me when these two worlds come together.

How do you get these mature companies to adopt the technologies that young talents are developing? Of course, there is value that spreadsheets can show, and the numbers can persuade you to open your mind. But many young companies don’t necessarily tell the stories of how their products can be adopted to add value in a way that the big, mature companies can understand and hear. There is still a resistance to change, yes. It takes creativity to get around that.

Being an expert when it comes to the future of commerce and consumer behavior, I think you agree that “transformation” is almost a euphemism for the current development. In your eyes, what are the three most important drivers or characteristics of this transformation?

As number one, I would name personalization and hyper-curation. Before personalization, what we’ve seen over recent years has been tribalization of the consumer. Brands have tried to find tribes, clusters of consumers to resonate with. Coming back to the nextgen consumer: TikTok is training young consumers to get used to hyper personalization by pushing content to them with a hypersensitivity, a deep understanding and awareness of what each individual wants to watch.

And social media influencers are like the modern department store, curating the products presented to next-gen shoppers. When that next generation of shoppers is trained by tech this way, retailers must figure out how to meet that expectation of deeply personal consumption. But it’s hard to manufacture or distribute products at scale (to get back to your earlier question) with that level of personalization without real costs – to the environment, for example.

I recognize a very clear understanding among young customers of what they are willing to spend money on. And this attitude is not necessarily driven by morality, but by a learned deep understanding of the economic value of a product.

Exactly. So, the question is how to communicate that value to customers succinctly. And for me, the second trend after personalization and hyper-curation is the

fact that there’s a transformation in how retailers reach their customers. If you think about how we spend our time, we always split our attention among several devices, screens and platforms. So, for me, the question of how to gain the attention of the customer is key. In this context, it’s crucial to find the right way of communication. The next frontier in consumer connection is to send a direct and intimate text message via WhatsApp or iMessage. Definitely not an email. When we look at the click through rate of text messages compared to emails, it is usually up to 90 percent, so much higher.

Is this kind of new old school?

Never underestimate the intimacy of text messaging! If I’m considering an investment, I always ask executive teams how they reach out to their customer community. Because this is a differentiator for the consumer right now.

And the third thing?

I believe omnichannel shopping is developing into omni-sensory shopping. At a halting pace right now, because AR and VR aren’t there yet in terms of quality of the physical experience. Retail even now is still trying to figure out how to have seamlessly integrated omnichannel backend systems. When VR and AR will be ready to be implemented ten years from now, it’s going to get even more challenging. But I do think that is going to be the third part of the transformation.

What would be the role of physical retail?

I have a very strong opinion on that. For me, the physical store is analogous to a live concert. Even if people mostly buy or stream music online, concerts are still so important because people want to be immersed in the artist’s performance. Similarly, a store must be more than a space where brands are being sold. Let’s call it an orchestration. When I am in a store, I want to experience smells, to hear sounds, to touch products and to see great visuals. I want to be able to move my body from one area to the next to have a different sensory experience. Going to a store is an omni-sensory experience I can’t get by shopping online at home.

Department and specialty stores have figured out this need, even if they haven’t figured out the perfect solution quite yet.

Does that mean that retailers and brands must redesign their business model?

They don’t have to redesign their fundamental business models. But department store retailers, for example, must be much more coordinated with brands as they think about what their in-store experience is supposed to provide. Do they just want to rent space to brands?

I think it’s about that sense of creation, right? What makes the theater so magical, compared to the movies?

Every time you go to the theater, you see people live, something can go wrong, the actors can and will adapt to the audience – they extend a pause if an audience is laughing, for example, until it’s quiet again. Each show is different. That is real. That is a personalization of experience. Stores need to increase the velocity of new experiences to give the consumer a reason to go back

“MAKE YOUR STAFF YOUR OWN AMBASSADORS!”

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“CREATIVITY IS THE HEART THAT KEEPS THE LIFEBLOOD CIRCULATING.”

As moderator of the IGDS Summit 2023 in Dubai, Ann Berry proved that only the right questions lead to substantial answers.

to get this feeling again – even if it is not a fast fashion retailer with new products every two weeks. Therefore, I think we’re going to see more pop ups. It reminds me of going to local markets when I travel. To discover.

It’s about entertainment. To deliver this experience, a retailer has to train employees and store associates in EQ and perception, in being able to engage customers as actors do in a theater. Technology helps. But it’s that actor that gets people to buy tickets to a show.

Because in the end it is and will be a human business?

Exactly. Otherwise, you go shop online. You must give your customers a reason to visit a store. For example, I go to the IMAX movie theater to watch an action movie because of the surround sound and the scale of the screen. Of course, I could watch it on any streaming platform as well, but I love the experience. I think there are certain categories within fashion and retail that really lend themselves to this.

So, your advice would be to invest most attention and money into the people working in the store being enthusiastic ambassadors for the product and the store?

Absolutely. Store associates should be ambassadors of your image. If you see people working in a store who have great style and you admire them because they are wearing the clothes the best way someone can, you will get a piece of that attitude and buy recommended products because you trust that perceived expert. Make your staff your own ambassadors.

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ior, how does Ann Berry actually consume? How can a brand or concept attract you?

I’m not a person who goes and browses a store for hours. I either purchase because I know I need a new pair of jeans and I know a store that has my size and the cuts I like. Or I want serendipity and discovery.

That’s what I associate with buying very special products on my travels. I’m happy to experiment with new brands that Instagram pushes onto me: I think Insta has figured out how to make this journey feel like it’s a discovery and is making me feel like it’s serendipitous when I find a product. But of course, it’s not. It’s no different from movie recommendations on Netflix.

That’s the same type of algorithm. And I think we as consumers need to go out of our way to discover things by accident. I will give you an example. On the weekend, I always read a physical newspaper. I go to a cafe by myself. I have a physical copy of The New York Times. And I do it because it’s different. I can feel it. I can touch it. It’s the real thing. When I turn the pages, there might be some random article to discover. It could be on how the car engine is made. I would never read this article on the app, and the app would never recommend this type of topic to me based on what I usually read. That’s also the way I discover a city when I am on vacation. I do not plan the day; I get a printed map from the concierge and then I walk around just enjoying the coincidences of discovery.

Will AI ever be able to surprise us?

Most likely. But it won’t be surprising itself, because it’s calculated.

Thank you so much for this interview!

COME VISIT US AT PITTI UOMO: PADIGLIONE DELLA GHIAIA, FLORENCE

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New Zealand meets Austria: Ruby Wallen and Christoph Tsetinis are the creators of Published by.

PUBLISHED BY

“THE NICHE IS SUFFICIENTLY LARGE” Ruby Wallen and Christoph Tsetinis, who have been a couple for more than eight years, launched Published by in 2019. The Viennese accessories specialist has evolved into an international insider tip in just four years. In this double interview, the entrepreneurial couple share their success story.

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Published by

How did Published by come about?

Ruby Wallen, Commercial Director of Published by: Chris (Christoph) and I have been a couple for more than eight years and he has always been keen on working with me. When he left Alexander McQueen in London to return to Vienna, the idea of creating our own label became more tangible.

Christopher Tsetinis, founder and Creative Director of Published by: I came back from London, no longer fancied university, and had no idea what to do with myself.

The AFA (Austrian Fashion Association) encouraged me 164 style in progress

to apply for prizes and grants, which I did. As a result, I had money to develop a bag collection. I initially used leather, but then I started working with 3D printing and other materials. Our learning-by-doing approach resulted in the Published by bags we have become accustomed to today.

Ruby: We presented the first collection in Paris in February 2020.

What is the secret of a successful professional and private partnership?

Chris: There is trust in both areas. I can trust Ruby 100 percent and really appreciate her work in business development and sales. She is an incredible networker, and her charisma catches on. She embodies and markets our vibe perfectly. I always think of her and her style whenever I design.

Ruby: Yes, I agree that trust forms the foundation. It is also very important to maintain strict a separation between the two areas.

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3D visualisation and 3D printing on demand upon receipt of order: The Published by bags are experiencing an international hype while breaking with industry norms.

The signature bags made of chrome are manufactured in Germany in close cooperation with the automotive industry.

Chris: Although you are, of course, involved in the creative processes from time to time, because you know the market requirements that need to be implemented in the design in order to achieve success.

Design – a crucial factor for Published by – is that what sets you apart?

Ruby: It is true that our design is very distinctive and acts as a trademark. However, how we manufacture the bags and accessories, the actual production process, is also an important aspect that both end consumers and retailers attach great importance to. Everything is made in Austria.

Chris: Moreover, the entire process, from creation to pro-

totype, is digital because it is in 3D. This type of creative design allows us to remain true to reality and show the customer the finished product without having to produce it. It is a highly sustainable approach to fashion. We only produce what is ordered.

Could it be that you, as the creators, are also crucial to the success? I certainly feel that way.

Chris: We are who you see, we do not pretend. Authenticity is definitely one of our assets. We not only epitomise a certain vibe with our collections and the label, but also on a personal level – especially Ruby. We draw from the techno scene, whose style is now gaining a foothold. To be honest, though, the niche is sufficiently large for me. (laughs) Let us move on to production. Could you give us an idea of how a Published by bag is manufactured?

Chris: Inspiration always comes first. I usually draw it from nature. Stones, for example, are an excellent source. Then I sketch the idea and transfer it to my programme. This is where I experiment with dimensions, shapes, colours, and materials to bring the bag to life. 3D animation allows us to visualise the bags in every detail. How does it open?

How will it look on the wearer? We then present the collection to the customer and commission the selected styles to be manufactured in Italy. So, we never overproduce.

What are your most important upcoming projects?

Chris: We strongly believe in co-ops, especially on an interdisciplinary level. We will soon be launching a chair and a sneaker in collaboration with a Japanese brand. style in progress 165

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None of the three founders of BLSSD have any fashion experience, but all three are on a mission: Designer Lama Riachi, her sister Lys Riachi, Managing Director, and her husband Kurt Blanckenberg, who is also a partner in the company.

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BLSSD

UNDERSTATED BOLDNESS BLSSD is designed for strong and fierce women.

Co-founder and Creative Director Lama Riachi opens up about breaking rules, female empowerment, and the meaning of “Pret a Gratitude”.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: BLSSD

Among all the neatly crafted brand narratives we see today, your story still really stands out. I would love to hear more about it.

Lama Riachi, co-founder of BLSSD: I am from Lebanon, born and raised in Beirut. I relocated to Dubai to work for Saatchi & Saatchi. Everything felt perfect. I was married, happy, my career was on the right track. Then in 2013, I was diagnosed with cancer – out of nowhere. This was followed by complex treatment, combined with all the fears and upheavals associated with this disease. I was lucky in the end. I not only had a stable support network, my husband, and my sister, but I was also adequately insured.

When I had beaten cancer six months later, I just wanted to move on without looking back and thinking too much

about what I had been through. Then I found this small ad in a Dubai newspaper, almost impossible to spot. A woman with cancer who could not complete her treatment because of insurance issues was asking for help. I was completely thunderstruck. I had to call right away, late at night at 11pm. Her sister answered the call.

To cut a long story short, the network maintained by my husband and myself enabled us to help this woman complete her treatment. Yet that was only one aspect, as she also wanted to talk. So did I. She proposed the idea of opening our exchange to other patients. Soon our WhatsApp group consisted of 56 women, which swiftly painted a very clear picture. Most of them had no support at all – not from family, not from friends. In this society, especially for women, cancer is a curse.

So, it developed a momentum of its own?

Yes. It quickly became clear that we needed a financial foundation. Yet right at that time, a new law made charity and fundraising almost impossible in UAE. We had to identify legal means to finance our project. We decided to design and drop a t-shirt collection.

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The start of BLSSD… The name of our WhatsApp group was “Blessed Together”.

We derived the brand name from that. The purpose came first, followed by the brand that would serve that purpose.

The idea of “Pret a Gratitude” was born. It was, however, never our intention to limit ourselves to charity merchandising. We – my sister, my husband, and I – planned to create a fashion brand for strong and fierce women.

So, none of the three founders had any fashion experience?

None at all, but I was so eager to learn and attended courses. While we all brought our skills and knowledge to the table, our passion and commitment proved even more crucial. The experience of what we can directly achieve for people unleashes a power of its own.

What happened next?

The Arab Fashion Council became aware of us in 2018.

One of its tasks is to support local brands. They offered us a full fashion show at Dubai Fashion Week. We accepted, without really knowing whether we could do it. Paradoxically, I believe it was, at that point, a good thing that none of us had a background in fashion. We all thought and acted completely outside the box. We did not intend to break rules, we simply did not know them. The show was a huge success. That was the moment when we officially became a fashion brand.

Did you fall in love with being a fashion designer?

I fell in love with trying to make fashion matter. It is such a powerful tool to reach out to and connect with people.

Was BLSSD what you describe as trans-seasonal even back then?

We do not think in seasons, but in stories – more precisely in chapters. There are two big drops per year, in March and October. Each drop has a specific theme. It is very important to ensure that these chapters build upon each other. An item of clothing from the current chapter seven should match what a customer bought in chapter four. We do not do sales either. We produce in reasonable quantities based on feedback and demand, also depending on how long we maintain and develop styles. In our last pop-up, which we see as as exhibitions, we showcased reinvented and reworked signature pieces from 2018 or 2019.

Breaking the rules seems to have become a habit… (laughs) This currently poses somewhat of a challenge as we move into the wholesale market. Most of the buyers either do not understand trans-seasonal or do not know how to integrate it into their existing system. It will be difficult to stand our ground, yet we trust in consumer feedback to ultimately establish it.

BLSSD shows a self-confident and self-evident femininity. To me, this is also a socio-political statement. Or am I misled by a western, male perspective?

BLSSD is not designed as a political statement. We strive to evolve into a sincere global brand while retaining our social purpose. At the same time, I am aware that female empowerment is always political – something that we take very seriously. Consequently, that means women should not have to hide being female. We address this in our designs, yet never in an obvious way. We never exploit womanhood. I like to call it understated boldness, which is what BLSSD was always meant to be.

Thank you very much for the interview.

BLSSD Founder Lama Riachi describes the style of her brand as understated boldness.

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Vertrieb: MODEist GmbH · +49 151 54 73 28 67 · info@b-kleidung.com · www.modeist.com ·

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HABSBURG KLEIDERMANUFAKTUR

40 YEARS OF SILENT LUXURY

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Excellence and uncompromising quality for a discerning, international target group.

The takeover by Meindl opens up genuine prospects for Habsburg. Markus Meindl and his partner Michael Rumerstorfer pursue a clear vision. Talking to style in progress, they explain how to make this vision a reality, why specialised retailers are essential, and what “fine hunting and formal wear” actually is. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Habsburg

Markus, what made Habsburg so appealing to you?

Markus Meindl, owner of Habsburg: I had held a fundamental interest in Habsburg for some time. We share similar values, as in an uncompromising understanding of quality and a style that transcends the banality of seasonal constraints. We both embody a particular idea of luxury and are therefore important, sought-after partners for specialised retailers. However, it was always obvious that I could not handle operations alone. I am therefore delighted to not only have Michael Rumerstorfer on board as a companion and like-minded spirit, but also the competent Habsburg team itself, which brings a wealth of valuable knowledge and excellence to the table. The fact that we are heading into this January with a future as a functioning company with a great collection is a team effort that cannot be valued highly enough.

Do you already have a clear vision for this future?

Markus Meindl: Habsburg has great potential. The first step is to further refine the brand essence to make it more tangible. Fine hunting and formal wear encompass much more than just a fine-sounding headline. Rather, it describes a highly international target group that is linked by very specific values: etiquette, education, discretion, and quiet luxury, combined with clear expectations regarding quality and the intrinsic value of products. Conservative values in the best possible sense of the word. Silent luxury is what Habsburg has been delivering for 40 years.

What are the first moves to exploit this potential?

Michael Rumerstorfer, Managing Partner of Habsburg: This loyal customer base is a fantastic asset that Habsburg brings to the table. At the same time, it also instils a clear sense of responsibility in everything we do. After all, the commitment to uncompromising quality must be embraced holistically. That is why we intend to take these steps without haste. The indications from markets such as Spain, France, and Eastern Europe are excellent. Naturally,

online is also high on the agenda. Moreover, we are convinced that we can reach a new, younger target group with Habsburg – styled differently, combined differently, yet still within the narrative of the brand.

Markus Meindl: We plan to expand into other categories in the medium term. Jewellery, beauty, home interiors – I see many opportunities to define the world of Habsburg more comprehensively. We have some initial ideas, but we have also received specific enquiries that we are scrutinising closely. Here too, it has to be in keeping with the brand.

Michael Rumerstorfer: If it is not 100 percent Habsburg, we will not do it.

Let’s return to the present. How is Habsburg kicking off the first season of the new era?

Markus Meindl: We received a great deal of encouragement and positive feedback from the industry after the takeover, especially from retailers. That was incredibly motivating.

Habsburg is a brand dedicated to specialised retailers. I use this term quite deliberately. A product in this category demands expertise, which is part of the overall experience that our customer expects. Only well-managed specialised retailers, where service, advice at eye level, and trust take center stage, can offer this.

Michael Rumerstorfer: The entire team is already looking forward to presenting an exceptional collection to this community. We have chosen a special setting for the occasion. On the 22nd of January 2024, we invite guests to Schloss Leopoldskron in Salzburg for five o’clock tea.

Markus Meindl: It is a very special location, the founding venue of the Salzburg Festival. A place where history and tradition combine with art and subtlety. In this very intimate setting, we invite friends and family of the Habsburg brand to join us on our journey into the future.

Michael Rumerstorfer and Markus Meindl share a clear idea how to lead Habsburg into a successful future.

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A passionate entrepreneur who never stopped being progressive: with Antony Morato, Lello Caldaralli has now founded his own daughter company in Germany. A confession.

ANTONY MORATO

ABOUT PERFECT TIMING In an interview with style in progress, Antony Morato founder and mastermind Lello Caldarelli explains his self-conception as an entrepreneur and why he firmly believes in specialised retailers.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Antony Morato

Legend has it that the name Antony Morato comes from an Italian phone directory. How did it really come about?

Lello Caldarelli, founder of Antony Morato: It was actually a phone book from New Jersey that a dear friend took from a phone booth at my request. I was looking for a name for my new project. My own name is Raffaello Caldarelli, which is very Italian. It would be perfect for Neapolitan bespoke clothing, but not for my idea of a modern, young designer brand for men. So, I started browsing and bang: Pizzeria Morato by Antony. It was that simple in the end.

Incidentally, the fact that I can no longer find this phone book still pains me to this day.

The real question is: What motivates a then 26-year-old young man to launch his own fashion brand? Ok, you are Italian. But what else?

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My father and grandfather were in the fashion business, so it is in my blood. I founded my first company when I was 19, straight out of school. I organised sourcing and production for other brands. That was a great learning experience.

At 26, I then fulfilled my dream of having my own brand by launching Antony Morato.

I found an interesting quote by you. I will try and share its essence here: “Creativity is achieved when confronted with the greatest possible challenges.” Does that describe you personally?

Absolutely! Above all, being an entrepreneur means thinking actively and flexibly to reach decisions. I could, of course, claim that Antony Morato’s entire development and success was planned exactly like it happened from the start, but that would be vain nonsense. General conditions, markets, and consumers change over the years – often at very short notice, radically, and unpredictably. Just think of the pandemic! Flexibility and the desire to shape change were, and still are, always required. However, it is crucial never to betray the core of the brand. In the case of Antony Morato, this means a contemporary, very international interpretation of ready-to-wear and fashion for men, as a

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Progressive at the top, understandable across the board: Antony Morato.

deliberate counterpoint to the all-dominant casualisation of the mid-2000s – implemented at the very highest quality level. Today, there is even a term for this: Affordable luxury.

Antony Morato was, in many respects, definitely “un-Italian” initially – very urban and monochrome, with a great deal of black. Is that part of the aforementioned brand essence?

I really strived to be different in terms of look and positioning, and I always had the international market in mind.

The aim was to be simple to understand and wearable in the best sense, yet always at very high standards. There is also a term for this now: basic with a twist. The launch itself and the rapid success, however, were very Italian.

What do you mean by that?

Italian buyers have a very specific mindset that is very different to, for example, German buyers. Italians would never ask who else has already bought a new collection, as they want to, if possible, be the first. This attitude helped me a great deal, as I had pre-produced with a calculated risk and was able to deliver immediately. By immediately I mean the day after the order.

Is basic with a twist still true today?

Yes, but allow me to explain that a little more precisely. The consumer is at the heart of everything we think, develop, and implement at Antony Morato. We can only be success-

ful if we know and understand our target group. I was convinced of this in 2006 and it applies more than ever today.

However, this does not mean underestimating the consumer and their demands, quite the opposite. We need to challenge and surprise them while remaining in their world.

This type of consumer is also increasingly immune against the seasonal rhythms I believe are outdated anyway.

Style is not seasonal, but part of a personality that develops and changes organically – not within predetermined seasons. That is exactly what Antony Morato reflects. We are always progressive and challenging at the top end of our collection, yet understandable across the board. Both elements together create our clear brand image, which is why they have to match in terms of look in our customers’ everyday lives, in business, or during a dinner with friends.

All this has nothing to do with seasons, but with occasions.

Is the new, dedicated branch in Munich also a commitment to the German-speaking markets in challenging times?

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“Being different is a conscious attitude!”

Justyna Przygonska and Brygida Handzelewicz-Wacławek, The Odder Side

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THE ODDER SIDE

A NEW SELF-CONFIDENCE

The story is quite simple. Two young women from Warsaw started designing contemporary fashion for themselves, which proved successful enough to turn into a business. In 2024, The Odder Side celebrates its tenth anniversary and is in the process of establishing an international presence. Justyna Przygonska reflects on The Odder Side’s evolution into a community brand, the beauty of the female back, and the power of local production.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: The Odder Side

The name begs a question. The other side of what?

Justyna Przygonska, founder of The Odder Side: We love playing with words. The initial idea was to reveal the other side of garments – the seams and the inside of the fabrics.

We discarded that idea very quickly, but the name developed a really exciting momentum of its own and took on a deep meaning that is closely linked to our view of fashion and society. Being different is not an end in itself, but a deliberate stance. Our first pieces always emphasised the back.

I find it so sculptural and sexy, yet never too intrusive. A bare back does not catch the eye when you enter a room. It also represents the other side if you like. Being unobtrusive is an important part of our brand DNA. You founded the company with Brygida Handzelewicz-Waclawek when you were both still very young.

What was your motivation back then?

When we founded The Odder Side in 2014, we were 25 and 26 years old. We had both always worked alongside our studies. Earning our own money and being independent was important to us.

So, neither of you had a fashion background?

We loved fashion! We were young women who enjoyed going out and having fun. Brygida was studying psychology, I was studying art history. When we met, Brygida was working as a stylist for magazines. She was already familiar with the processes and systems of the fashion industry and had contacts. She introduced me to a fashion brand, and I started working in marketing. There I had the chance to experience almost all aspects as part of a small team – an incredible learning process.

The perfect preparation for the next step…

We were incredibly motivated. We wanted to do something together, and that entailed fashion – fashion we could not find elsewhere. When exploring the Polish market, we sensed a lack of a certain look, a new interpretation of femininity. There was a clear gap between high-end fashion and comfortable, loose-fitting grey jogging trousers. We created the look for ourselves, but we were pretty confident that many other girls would like it too.

So, even back then you were catering to a specific community?

Instinctively, not as a cunning masterplan. We were young and ambitious. It is as simple as that. We also maintained an Instagram account from day one, in English no less!

Our look and attitude immediately attracted attention. It was incredibly exciting and so much fun. We were so unbelievably self-confident. Today, I find it hard to remember how. (laughs heartily) Maybe it was because we had nothing to lose. Incidentally, neither Brygida nor I had a private Instagram account at the time, but we understood the unstyle in progress 175

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Subtly feminine, unobtrusively sexy, The Odder Side knows its target group very well.

derlying concept. Very visual, very inspiring, very interactive: That was exactly the way we wanted to communicate The Odder Side.

Was this also rooted in instinct?

Again, we based everything on what would interest US – and that is exactly how we proceeded. Our customers had the chance to experience our story live from day one. We were always approachable and open for both praise and criticism. Let’s not forget how overly critical and demanding Polish women can be! This mindset is kind of a national cultural asset. If you succeed in Poland, you are ready to conquer the world.

Does this feedback directly impact the look or the collection?

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frequently expressed demand. Incidentally, some of these pieces are now significantly more expensive at Vinted than they originally were, which is a fantastic endorsement of both look and quality.

My first thought about The Odder Side was: “Hey, that does not look Polish at all!” A pretty silly prejudice, is it not? (laughs) To be honest, I think that is an interesting take.

After all, we devoted considerable time to analysing that aspect internally. We certainly never wanted The Odder Side to look “Polish” in any way. My generation grew up with this strange inferiority complex. The communist era was still deeply entrenched. This complex, the feeling of deprivation, can even be observed in the younger generations.

Our grandmothers sought inspiration everywhere and ingeniously used unconventional materials to make clothes.

For me and my generation, travelling the world was still a novelty. We simply did not share the same background

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The Paris store in the heart of the Marais district is a statement. It was opened because France was the strongest market outside Poland.

as a girl from Paris, London, or Rome. Today, Poland is experiencing a boom, especially in the creative sector. I am immensely proud of this young, ambitious creative community. I love this atmosphere, commitment, and cohesion.

Does production take place 100 percent in Poland?

Yes. We did not have a choice at the start, but now it is a conscious decision. It is important to us on many levels, both practically and emotionally.

Why is this the case?

Local production facilitates many things that are important to us, and which are becoming increasingly important in the fashion industry as a whole: short distances and swift coordination, for example. Only local production allows for our special rhythm. We also benefit from detailed insight into the processes, as well as social and ecological standards.

Fun fact: We started with “Made in Europe”, but today we emphasise “Made in Poland” very confidently – for all the reasons mentioned.

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You currently run five boutiques in Poland, one in Amsterdam, and one in Paris, as well as an online shop that enjoys great international success. Are you now venturing into wholesale?

So far, we have only explored this aspect to a limited extent, almost like a trial run. Yet I do see this as the next possible step for The Odder Side. Precision is key, as we operate at a unique rhythm that does not align with the order rhythms that typically exist today.

So much the better! These rhythms need to change anyway.

We share this conviction, not least due to the feedback we received in close exchange with our community. Timing should always be based on their needs. We are not in a hurry. Our goal is not to grow as quickly as possible. We do not strive to be stocked by as many stores as possible, but by the right ones.

Thank you very much for the interview, Justyna!

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Vertrieb DE & AT: MODEist GmbH · +49-151 54 73 28 67 · info@b-kleidung.com · www.modeist.com · Vertrieb CH: Modeagentur Zirlewagen · +41-796 31 17 18 · nathalie@zirlewagen.ch · www.zirlewagen.ch ·

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PAUL & SHARK

WITH FULL CLARITY

Andrea Dini has not only promised to reposition the brand, he is also implementing this with impressive consistency. Paul & Shark’s brand history is translated into a lifestyle collection that opens up new opportunities.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Paul & Shark

He has a soft spot for the future. Paul & Shark owner and CEO Andrea Dini’s gaze is always directed forward.

“In my entire career, I have never met an entrepreneur who tackles his brand so uncompromisingly,” says Bernard Waage of Select Studio, responsible for sales in Germany.

SOPHISTICATED LUXURY

It starts with a strong collection. A great deal of technical innovation lies within the reduced-sophisticated lifestyle collection. Be it a shacket in water resistant cashmere, or a lightweight overshirt with silk padding, a wool-cashmere gilet made of Save The Sea fabric or re-wool crewnecks, polo shirts, turtlenecks, or zip-up jackets, plus trousers in a smart cargo look or made of technical wool – the look is complete, right down to the shoes. A tonal color scheme underlines the demand for restrained, modern elegance.

NEXT GENERATION

It is no coincidence that Paul & Shark’s campaigns are also shaped by values: actor Pierce Brosnan features with his son Paris. For the image video, the brand brought them to Italy, the creative direction of the “Father and Son Tale” was handled by Italian top photographer Giampaolo Sgura and styling legend Anna Dello Russo. Paul & Shark has even more connections to Pierce Brosnan. He is an ambassador for the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and, like the brand, is committed to protecting the oceans.

Paul & Shark presents its committed sustainability efforts in a very subtle way – from the eco-conscious website to a high percentage of sustainable or recycled materials in the collection.

FULL TRANSFORMATION

Of course, the customers Paul & Shark has in mind for this new direction are not always the brand’s historical accounts. This is a sensitive sales task that requires intuition and persuasiveness. “Paul & Shark foregoes revenue and follows through with the separation even from high-turnover retailers,” says Bernard Waage. The transformation is accompanied by a major communication offensive and marketing support for retailers. Andrea Dini is certain: brands are made in retail. Yet the entrepreneur has no doubt that change is afoot. This makes him all the more ambitious in setting the course to finding his place in the global trade landscape of the future. “We think in terms of generations,” insists Andrea Dini. Completely selffinanced and family-owned, such courageous decisions can be made independently at Paul & Shark – a room for manoeuvering that the entrepreneur does not want to be deprived of under any circumstances.

A turnaround in image and style, implemented with a great deal of self-confidence and entrepreneurial vision: Paul & Shark.

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CLAIRE COMMON

STYLISH & INCLUSIVE Claire, your label epitomises inclusive fashion. What are the special features of your designs?

Claire Common, founder of Claire Common: They feature special functional elements for wheelchair users, for example large pockets for valuables at the hem or hoodies cut shorter at the front to avoid unflattering bulk in the wheelchair. The stretchy fabric also facilitates independent dressing.

Disabilities are a sensitive topic.

What challenges are involved?

Some people clam up, others are moved and willing to share their experiences. I realise that my concept requires explanation. I manufacture in small batches, which requires flexibility. At the same time, pattern development for inclusive fashion is more time-consuming. This means that time management is the be-all and end-all. www.clairecommon.de

GOTS-certified materials are processed for Claire Common in Mannheim and in an inclusion workshop in Weinheim.

“I strive to empower people with disabilities to talk about their experiences.

Fashion makes this topic more acces­ sible.” Claire Common Highly functional, fashionable, and sustainable: Off-Grid.

OFF-GRID

CAUGHT FIRE

Off-Grid is primarily known for photovoltaic systems and tiny houses.

Somewhat provocatively asked: Why a fashion collection now?

Robert Rivera, Sales OffGrid: Off-Grid is an Italian product from Naples, so fashion is a natural fit. Sustainability is easy to implement in fashion, for example with upcycled materials.

How receptive is the market to fashionable yet sustainable outerwear?

There still is a lack of willingness among buyers to engage with the topic of sustainability without pigeonholing. The subject as a whole suffers from a poor image here in Germany, whether intentional or not. Yet in my small, recently opened shop on Sylt, I experience every day how open consumers are to sustainability. They are absolutely ready for Off-Grid. www.off-grid.it

Robert Rivera is primarily a retailer, but he is also committed to Off-Grid out of conviction.

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Multi-layered community: More than 50 top international labels from the premium and luxury segment already belong to the Arianee Association, which operates the Arianee Protocol.

ARIANEE

ZERO-PARTY DATA More than 50 international brands from the luxury and premium segment have already joined the Arianee Association in an effort to create digital product passports by harnessing the Arianee Protocol. The advantages of this blockchain-based technology are obvious. In addition to technical services, the primary benefit of the digital product passport is that it connects a brand and its customers in the most direct and trustworthy manner. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Arianee

Delphine, why does the world even need digital product passports?

Delphine Eddé, Head of Marketing at Arianee: Today, we face three kinds of challenges for brands and retailers: the growing consumer demand for circularity and transparency, regulation, especially in Europe, and data management. How does one gather, access, and control data? What the blockchain technology allows us to do, is to utilise so-called zero-party data where users retain 100 percent control of their digital data. We offer an easy opportunity to tackle all these topics.

What exactly is a digital product passport?

A digital product passport basically connects a physical product to a digital identity offering product information like history, origin, ownership, materials, and much more. It is not static, it is dynamic. You can add information and even service layers. That is not only an advantage for the owner, but also for the brand. They can interact with the owner at any time,

for example with proposals of how the product can be maintained or repaired. The digital link primarily creates trust, also with regard to the authenticity of a branded product.

Sounds like you are giving the products the ownership of their own history. Is that not next-level storytelling?

Exactly. Customers are no longer dependent on what content a brand wants to share with them or not, because they see everything in the digital product passport. That is real life, not a marketing campaign. It even represents a new opportunity to increase engagement with your communities. At Arianee, we turn a product into an engagement platform. This digital link creates new ways of direct communication between a brand and its customers.

How do customers experience the digital product passport?

If you, for example, buy the latest Mugler spiral bag, it comes with a QR code or an NFC chip. When the customer scans it after purchasing the physical product, they can directly access all the services and information stored there. This is where Arianee goes a step further because we are blockchain-based, meaning you can collect the passport of your bag in a decentralised application. Via the passport, customers can access product services such as warranty documents, repair services, certificates, and maintenance support. Yet those are but a few services that brands can offer through the digital product passport. The primary objective of Arianee is to create a close, respectful relationship between brands and their customers. style in progress 183

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Distribution, agency, sales and marketing are increasingly merging into a single entity. The holistic look at brands and their markets is a good thing: Independent brands or even new business models are emerging in which cause and effect are directly linked.

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner. Photos: Interview partners

360° DISTRIBUTION MARCONA3

CREATING BRANDS Marcona3 stands out in the complex and constantly evolving world of sales.

Was this path mapped out from the start?

Antonio Longo, General Manager of Marcona3: Marcona3 was born out of a vision to provide bespoke fashion wholesale solutions for labels of all sizes, specialising in independent fashion. We started out as a small team with a great passion for design combined with expertise in logistics and operational efficiency. Our objective has always been to ensure that all fashion-related services run very smoothly, to allow our designers to focus entirely on their core business: creating collections. We invested heavily in technology during all growth phases to ensure that everything runs that smoothly from an administrative perspective, so that we can focus on being a competent sparring partner for our retailers.

What makes you special or different?

I would say a knack for trends, a comprehensive understanding of the industry, our ability to listen, and adaptability. We always try to find a bespoke 184 style in progress

Ten C is one of the top brands at Marcona3.

Antonio Longo, CEO of Marcona3 for more than 17 years.

solution for every customer.

The result is success stories such as Veja, Marcelo Burlon, GCDS, Salvatore Santoro, Tagliatore, Represent, Ten C, and The Attico. We are, of course, particularly proud of the development of Off-White.

The collaboration with Virgil Abloh was very enriching for us and the success of the brand confirmed that we understand fashion designers and their visions while knowing exactly how to position them. We never cease to invest, be it in new backend systems, processes, employees, or brands.

The showroom in Milan’s Via Marcona serves as an incubator for new brands.

WHAT'S THE STORY

N e w H o r i zo n s

“The only way to create culture is to allow creative people to remain creative.”

Stavros Karelis, Creative Director Tomorrow Group

TOMORROW GROUP

„NO RULE FITS ALL“ The Tomorrow Group is shaping the future. As early as 2010, Stefano Martinetto and Giancarlo Simiri recognised the importance of breathing new life into the traditional distribution model. Their approach entails working on brand DNA and striving to be more than “just” a sales agency. This proved successful with independent brands such as Coperni, Collville, Charles Jeffrey and Martine Rose, to name but a few. A conversation with Creative Director Stavros Kamil about the beginning of a new era of distribution.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Tomorrow Group

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Stavros, let’s start at the beginning. How did you come to join Tomorrow Group?

Stavros Karelis, Creative Director of Tomorrow Group: Initially, I had no connection whatsoever to fashion. I studied political science in my home country Greece. It was only after moving to London in the early 2000s and discovering the city’s exciting club scene that I was introduced to the world of fashion. I met young designers and fashion industry insiders, which fuelled my fascination and passion for the industry. The lack of retailers stocking these up-and-coming designers prompted me to launch Machine-A, a multi-brand luxury store located in Soho. We showcased a blend of emerging and established brands. So, I first encountered Tomorrow Group as a customer.

Today, we are talking about a new era of distribution. Can Tomorrow Group, with its fully integrated approach, be regarded as a pioneer of this movement?

Founders Stefano Martinetto and Giancarlo Simiri aimed to be more than just a showroom right from the outset. They recognised that young, independent labels in particular require more than mere sales support.

Accordingly, they established a multi-service platform for business development to

N e w H o r i zo n s

WHAT'S THE STORY

Since its foundation, Tomorrow Group has been committed to the concept of a multi-service platform for business development that promotes and supports young creators in the global fashion industry.

Invigorating brands through collaborations: Nike x Martine Rose.

promote and support the creativity of young entrepreneurs. Tomorrow Group serves as an incubator and accelerator for up-andcoming fashion labels and devises customised development plans for each brand. In today’s fashion world, where no one rule fits all, that is incredibly important.

What exactly does that entail?

We scout brands non-stop. We initiate a dialogue and spend up to six months getting to know each other to find out what the brand needs: just sales or mentorship and/or operational support such as financial assistance, services such as marketing and communication, or help with production, etc. Tomorrow Group attaches great importance to ensuring that creatives do not have to contend with bureaucracy or operational issues. The only way to create culture is to allow creative people to remain creative.

As a distributor, are you never tempted to intervene in the creative process?

Never. Nobody on the board interferes in the creative process. We ensure that the collections are produced, sold, and marketed. Designers should design. That enabled us to create our Tomorrow Originals such as Colville, Coperni, Martin Rose, and Charles Jeffrey. style in progress 187

WHAT'S THE STORY

TELL ME A

Sometimes loud, sometimes very quiet, sometimes highly professional, sometimes sympathetically authentic: the point of sale is the point of stories. This is where the connection between the story and the action is established most quickly. Whether via screen or face-to-face is just one of the options. It is much more important that the store platform becomes its own type of media. Retail media is the fastest growing discipline in the modern marketing mix. This finally puts retailers in a position to turn their carefully built communities and local networks into assets.

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THIS IS THE STORY… ALL ABOUT HOW

The first impression not only counts – it manipulates. Retail can harness this reflex.

When the economy of attention pushes the limits of what is deemed reasonable every day and the most obtrusive wins far too often, it calls for ideas that make a difference.

Those who are willing to engage find fortune in extraordinary retail concepts that prove the potential of an excellent story.

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What level of complexity is now associated with the buzzword storytelling?

With ever fewer retail professionals available to convey a compelling story and, conversely, with the attention span of consumers being put to the test in a variety of ways on a daily basis, we have to ask: who is telling the story and, above all, how? Is it the sales professional or the AI software-controlled, digitally enabled screen on the wall?

Is it the product range or the overarching concept?

Who supplies the content for digital tools? The truth often lies in the middle, in the amalgamation of human and technical services.

Retail examples that present unconventional, deeply human, or even highly engineered solutions on how to inspire customers with your story are truly refreshing.

The varying methods and approaches are inspiring in themselves. First and foremost, these are exceptional locations that convey what they embody through quirky misappropriation, decelerated community spaces, or an interdisciplinary, fanned-out real-time experience factor.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores

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New York label Coach showcases iconic retro design in an American style in a converted Boeing 747 in Malacca.

Rows of seats and the cockpit entice customers to take photos, turning the store into a real marketing machine on social media.

Coach Airways/Malacca

UP IN THE SKY? YES, ON TIKTOK!

New York-based brand Coach debuted its first Coach Airways concept store in a converted Boeing 747 at the Freeport A’Famosa outlet in Malaysia in early June 2023. The interior of the aircraft was gutted and reconstructed, creating space for an unusual store including a café bar. Besides a selection of accessories and ready-to-wear collections, the aircraft provides spectacular backdrops for social media posts and photos, such as the retro-designed cockpit. “The opening of Coach Airways not only marks the launch of our first retail concept of this kind, but also an exciting moment for Coach as we continue to push innovation and create a space where customers can explore and interact,” says Coach General Manager Campbell O’Shea. This experiment successfully transferred Coach’s New York attitude to Malaysia.

A nostalgic nod: the Queen of the Sky – as the Boeing 747 was known as the epitome of aviation luxury in the golden age of flight in the 1970s – has been transformed into the Queen of Retail.

Passengers enter via the boarding gate with an airline ticket, which is issued to the customer at the entrance.

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Louis Vuitton/Vienna

LA MAISON DES ARTS

When LVMH CEO Pietro Peccari named US rapper and style icon Pharrell Williams as the new creative director for menswear in February 2023, the fashion house upheld its tradition of progressive appointments to the position – as Williams succeeded none other than Virgil Abloh.

The fusion of art, design, different cultural and style universes, and bold innovation has allowed Louis Vuitton to make veritable evolutionary leaps in recent years. The latest example is the new flagship store at the Graben in Vienna. An experiential statement across four floors, incorporating local and international artists and designers such as Alvar Aalto, Carl Malmsten, Matt Gagnon, and Fernando Daza. The Maison thus serves as a cultural melting pot. Vienna is the latest brainchild of a dream team. Once again, New York art architect Peter Marino lent a hand to continue his design concept for Louis Vuitton, which he had previously implemented in London, Los Angeles, and Ginza. His central element remains the incorporation of art, which he drapes around Louis Vuitton’s collection of designer furniture, the Objets Nomades.

Walk-in sculpture: The staircase featuring seemingly floating steps is flanked by artworks of Austrian artist Erwin Wurm.

The store design pays homage to famous Viennese artists with historical references: A pyramid of suitcases was hand-painted in the style of Gustav Klimt and the artists of the Vienna Secession.

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Zara Sustainability Innovation Hub/Milan

STORYTELLING AS COMPOSITION

During the Salon del Mobile, Zara staged an immersive Sustainability Innovation Hub in its Milan flagship store, where it presented the successful start-ups from the fashion and textile industry which the brand decided to back. Given that the Inditex Group is not exactly associated with the sustainable use of resources, this was a rather delicate moment. The fact that this pop-up event was ultimately so successful was, in part, the result of creative agency Random Studios staging the story theatrically and very technically – much like a composition. Random Studios Senior Art Director Finnán Barry and Experience Director Richard Overboom explain why the fusion of technology and fully recyclable materials was so essential to convey the message authentically.

The Sustainability Innovation Hub operates fully automated in a high-traffic transit zone. How sophisticated does the story need to be?

For the Sustainability Innovation Hub, digital and technical tools were a key part of the storytelling we wanted to convey. The team had already existed for some time, and they had the desire to share their knowledge with the rest of the industry and the clients. Therefore, we developed a sequence of literal spotlights to cast over the past collaborations with the incubated start-ups. It gave each collaboration its own moment in a choreographed routine, as well as a touch of drama. Our aim is, in order to merge the digital with the physical, to unify the perceptual appearance of physical and virtual environments in such a way that a person does not have to switch between two different cognitive and perceptual modes.

The seamless integration of physical space with digital communication and other computational technologies is meaningful for us because we can design experiences that are otherwise not possible.

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Zara’s flagship store revealed a new aspect with its Sustainability Innovation Hub during the Salon del Mobile in Milan.

The entire entrance area was transformed into an immersive real-time experience, a story narrated and steered by spotlights and digital screens.

Selfridges Stock Market/ London

A DAY TRADER’S PARADISE

As part of its summer 2023 Worn Again campaign, Selfridges launched, among other initiatives, the Stock Market in its Corner Shop, where second-hand products could be valued and traded, as well as repaired and upgraded on site, in similar fashion to the London Stock Exchange.

The look is familiar. Inspired by the trading floor of the London Stock Exchange, Selfridges developed this pop-up to highlight the value of second-hand products. Launched in May 2023, the concept in the Corner Shop, located on the ground floor, enabled customers to repair, exchange, or value items for four weeks. The space literally transformed into a trading floor. Brokers behind the central counter were therefore not primarily there to sell, but rather to act as intermediaries and advisors for upcycling opportunities, such as those offered directly on site by The Handbag Clinic. This story not only makes sense, but is, above all, fun. The Selfridges Stock Market elevated the potential of second-hand products to a new level in terms of intrinsic value and its commercialisation.

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ZeeDog Park is all about encounters – not only for dogs. Alongside the rooftop bar, the park serves as the heart of the community hub.

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ZeeDog Temple/São Paulo

FOR HUMANS AND PETS Pets provide the best possible kick-start to every form of communication, and the fact that they hold potential in terms of a certain style effect is an economic reality. Creative Director Thadeu Diz paid tribute to the great feel-good and style factor of animals and their owners by launching a completely new version of a pet supply store with ZeeDog Temple in 2022: a hip community space for (pet) friends in the heart of the big city, offering everything that style-conscious pet owners love, from dog leashes to walking outfits. The venue features its own dog park, a washing station, and a roof terrace with bar. A rounded and cohesive cosmos that radiates tolerance and a welcoming spirit.

“We built the temple as a focal point for our ZeeDog community. Every single detail of our 800-square-meter experiential universe encapsulates everything we stand for as a brand, and as individuals,” Diz succinctly summarises.

Lovingly arranged to resemble a buffet: the ground floor features all the useful and beautiful things for the everyday life of a pet owner.

The floor above offers everything for the human companions – both the in-house ZeeDog Human collection and clothing, shoes, and accessories by other brands.

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Mango Teen Store/Barcelona

COMING OF AGE

“When the customers leave home, they want to disconnect from everything and enjoy a fun moment that is different from their daily routines,” Christophe Penasse describes his aspirations for successful retail concepts.

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The first Mango Teen Store in Barcelona was designed as a pilot project targeting teenagers between the ages of 11 and 13. A challenge addressed by the Masquespacio design studio in the guise of a surreal world featuring an interactive experimentation and experience factor.

Every aspect of this store invites customers to abandon rationality and engage with the space as if in a dream. The idea of the Metaverse becomes a reality. The international roll-out of the Mango Teen Store is due to follow soon. Christophe Penasse of Masquespacio explains why the Metaverse is such an essential element.

How did you manage to incorporate the idea of the Metaverse in a realistic way?

Christophe Penasse: It was very clear for us that GenZ lives in some sort of technological bubble and that the Metaverse is a real part of their lifestyle. The space acts as a canvas that they can use in their Metaverse while visiting the store, giving them the opportunity to recreate surreal scenarios surrounded by the Mango Teen World. Some additional technology was used in the changing room, where, in a mirrored environment, we prepared a set-up for them to make their craziest videos. As you see, we introduced some playful elements, although we did not want the space to be converted into a playing room. It should provide the customer with a shopping experience based on their lifestyle. We believe that, when the customers leave home, they want to disconnect from everything and enjoy a fun moment that is different from their daily routines.

Masquespacio agency is always one step ahead. That begs the question: Where is retail design heading?

Automatic selling through AI will definitely attract some attention, while the user experience will be even more important to attract customers to your stores. At the end, the store will be part of your communication. It therefore needs to be more interactive with the customers and help you convey your brand story.

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Rotating rails and racks in every corner. Laundromats possess a unique charm as a place of encounter.

The Adidas Laundromat in Berlin adopts this special community character as a stylistic device for its latest multi-brand concept store experiment.

NEIGHBOURHOOD HANGOUT

It is a place of exchange in the truest sense. Laundromat opened as the first Adidas pop-up store in the Prenzlauer Berg district in September 2023.

Analogous to the concept of an actual laundromat, it focuses on the preservation and care of products, while also serving as a meeting place for the local youth scene. In addition to Adidas Originals and Performance collections, the store features second-hand products and a textile rental service, as well as limited-edition drops, collaborations, and, above all, events involving local artists. Adidas deliberately keeps a low profile, ceding the field to the second-hand range of brand partners such as Pool and Westend Vintage.

The shopping experience bridges the gap between the physical and digital realm – adapted to the lifestyle of teenagers. An optical effect distorts the perspective in the changing room, making it appear as if you are actually in the Metaverse.

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🡇 TECHNICAL

WHAT'S THE STORY

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POWER TOOLS

“What was science fiction just a few years ago is now science at best,” the Dfrost agency writes in a recent feature on its new VR solution.

Innovative technologies not only solve acute retail problems, but they also bring a rare quality back to the sales floor: Fun. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Companies

AK AGENCY

HOLOSKIN WITH DEPTH EFFECT

When customers become part of a label or store’s campaign through their mere existence and literal casual interaction, Alexander Kratz’s so-called Invisible Holoskin has achieved what was intended. Invisible Holoskin is a crystal-clear, self-adhesive foil that can be applied and cut to size on any glass surface or mirror front. With the help of a projector, it can be used to display any type of content or film that is subsequently converted into 3D holograms in 4K. The simplest system only requires the foil and a projector, while the next level, Interactive Holoskin, adds AI. Powered by a local AI computer and a 4K camera, the system automatically reacts to passers-by by capturing their biometric data such as gender, age, and state of mind in order to display specific content on the foil within fractions of a second. This transforms the shop window into a digital touchscreen that allows pedestrians to interact.

AK Agency presented the next additional feature in June last year, which it deployed for the first time at a Chanel event at KaDeWe in Berlin. A mobile, interactive unit invites visitors to directly upload selfies of themselves. “This allows them to become part of the campaign and share their self-created content directly,” explains Alexander Kratz. www.akagency.de

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Run! It only takes a few steps for the Magic Wall’s invisible scanner to identify the right shoe for the customer’s individual running style.

Day or night: The Invisible Holoskin shines in all light conditions.

Ꞌ

Mobile, interactive photo stations invite visitors to become a visual participant in the content – and to share it.

ON

ALWAYS ALONG THE WALL

The idea originates from the flagship store in New York. It was so effective that the Swiss shoe brand rolled out its Magic Wall in other stores too. The digital wall, 19 metres long and three metres high, encourages customers to walk past it. An invisible, biometric gait analysis in the floor, combined with a specially designed concealed foot scanner, determines which shoe best suits the individual running style – and the exact shoe size – within a few steps and with millimeter precision.

Customers can access all models in all sizes in pull-out shelves at the rear of the Magic Wall. www.on-running.com

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ALBERTO

NEXT STEP

The Alberto bike clip was a huge success on social media, and also highlighted how far the company has already progressed in the implementation of AI-supported systems. In mid-September, Alberto launched a ChatGPT-based AI solution customised to the requirements of its own website. It enables online shop customers to receive immediate and competent answers to all product and company-related questions.

“The fashion market is heading into a very exciting phase, and I assume that the market data obtained through AI will make it possible to analyse user behaviour even more effectively in the future,” says Managing Director Marco Lanowy. www.albertoshop.de

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Artificial intelligence as support for the web shop: Alberto has launched a customised ChatGPT solution.

Willi Ibbeken of Inspora

DFROST

IN THE THICK OF IT

Virtual reality makes it possible: VR technology allows customers of Stuttgart-based agency Dfrost to tour their store of tomorrow today, in order to actively shape their project from the outset. “VR eliminates spatial boundaries. The customer no longer looks at a sketch but stands in the centre of their project and is able to interact with it,” says Christoph Stelzer, Managing Director and co-founder of Dfrost. Three-dimensional perception saves time, resources, and costs, but above all it reduces misjudgements and misunderstandings. The next step will involve replicating the senses of touch, smell, and taste.

TRAINED BY HUMANS

Anyone who discusses Conversational Commerce, an AI application that has been on everyone’s lips since the advent of ChatGPT, with Willi Ibbeken of Potsdam start-up Inspora will hear a surprisingly human-based explanation for this technical solution.

What distinguishes Inspora’s AI solution from other ChatGPT applications?

Willi Ibbeken: If you integrate ChatGPT, you are drawing from the same publicly accessible data pool as everyone else. In the future, those companies that use proprietary data to train their AI to customise the database to their requirements will provide a better service. Given that we have been handling specific data from the fashion sector for several years, we are in a position to train our AI system individually and enrich product-specific information with insights generated from our own database.

What does this database entail?

We train our system based on human knowledge, i.e. the expertise and experience of more than 100 stylists. To this end, we ask them to answer specific questions and derive certain outfit formulas, which our AI then uses as a reference when providing advice.

Simultaneously, we automatically scan more than 50 influencer blogs and forums on a regular basis in order to analyse the images and content to identify what is being reported on, what the trends are, and what connections exist.

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“WE EXTRACT OUR DATA FROM HUMAN EXPERTISE, INFLUENCER POSTS, AND PRODUCT INFORMATION TO CREATE ALGORITHMS FOR OUR AI."

INSPORA

Pre-construction experience: Dfrost utilises VR planning tools to bring its store designs to life during the design phase.

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Coop Group and Asam Beauty are already Frontnow customers.

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░░ FRONTNOW

“WE IMPLEMENT WITHIN A MATTER OF HOURS – LENGTHY INTEGRATION PROCESSES ARE NO LONGER ACCEPTABLE.” Mark Funk

AI Technology That Understands Customers Frontnow CEO and founder Mark Funk envisions transferring retail’s greatest asset to the digital world: the consultation. His AI search engine is capable of recognising images and videos, learning by scrolling through websites, listening to the customer, and asking questions where necessary.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Frontnow

Frontnow operates on the basis of GPTs and AI. What opportunities does this present?

Mark Funk, CEO Frontnow: In order to explain, you first need to understand why existing search engines work so poorly. If the color is not mentioned in the information text of the product the customer is looking for, they will not find it. Our application, however, is 202 style in progress

no longer reliant on product descriptions, as it can extract data from image analysis by harnessing artificial intelligence. It can identify that a blouse is blue, and it also recognises details such as material properties. If, for example, a blouse flutters in the wind in a video, it interprets the fabric as light. We cluster these attributes extracted from data sources in a vector database, categorise the attributes that are relevant, and then create a neural and keyword search in a hybrid instrument – all thanks to large language models in many different languages.

How does this affect the user experience?

It allows the online customer to make a specific enquiry. Let me provide an example.

You are looking for a dress for a cocktail party and know that it will be windy. Accordingly, our programme not only suggests suitable dresses, but also a light jacket. In short, it acts like an excellent salesperson. The advisor with whom you are interacting also asks questions.

Generative AI will make this possible in our next version. That constitutes a revolution.

How do you address the risks of AI? If you permit GPTs to communicate with customers without a filter, the program can hallucinate and say the wrong things. We specify the knowledge base of our AI in a manner that de facto rules out this scenario.

design by wundergestalten.de

It’s time for ...

Pitti Uomo Florenz

09.01. – 12.01.24

Showroom Munich, Römerstr. 14, München

22.01. – 23.01.24

Fashn Rooms Düsseldorf Areal Böhler, Hansaallee 321, Glühofenhalle, Hallennummer 11 Showroom Munich, Römerstr. 14, München

25.01. – 30.01.24

01.02. – 29.02.24

www.diehinterhofagentur.de

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? h t w o Gr

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Y T I N a i V MMU O C

Instead of holding out for miracles, they perform them themselves: fashion stores that create what is now called a community use personality and intimacy. These are circles that you are glad to be part of because consumption is by no means the only unifying factor. This is where values, styles, and a generous serving of fun come together!

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The harmonious presentation at Evoilà whets the appetite for fashion.

Evoilà/Berikon

“THE PERSONAL TOUCH DELIVERS MUCH MORE!” Bea Schneiter is the heart and soul of Evoilà.

Bea Schneiter from Evoilà also taps into the potential of social media, but she prefers to focus on face-to-face encounters. She is proven right every day in her store.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Evoilà

While many promote their retail concept via social media, you prefer to advertise Evoilà more traditionally, via special customer events or sponsorship. Why is that?

Bea Schneiter, owner of Evoilà: Simply put, because that works best for us.

We returned to the classic way of inviting people to events by letter. Most of the recipients responded and half of them signed up – in stark contrast to invitations via e-mail, Facebook, or Instagram. Unfortunately, I lack the time to approach social media more professionally. I prefer to invest this time in personal exchanges.

How do you gain new admirers?

Actually, a great deal comes from word of mouth. Friends are tipped off

by friends, which allows us to attract younger customers. Our large shop window is the best advertisement you could wish for, and we also sponsor vouchers for cultural and sporting events. That pays off, as people who visit the store usually buy something.

What else sets you apart?

We present new labels like Odeeh or Semicouture every season, and also occasionally feature crazier styles.

Granted, people may not always buy them, but they are a talking point. We strive to embody something specific and remain incomparable. That is why we travel so extensively.

How does one build a community with customers?

This summer, the open-air cinema in the village square showed a film starring a long-time customer. We gathered for an Aperol sponsored by us and enjoyed a fabulous evening! The resulting response at Evoilà impressed me immensely. It was so lovely to witness customers chatting like friends and even selling dresses to amongst each other! www.evoila.boutique style in progress 205

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A jacket by Manifattura Fagerholt, and furniture Checcarelli, sneakers by Veja, trousers by H2O by brands like Hay – wou eclectic mix in Eckernförd ld anyone expect such e?

an

Heimathafen/Eckernförde

“THAT SUSTAINED ME” A complete restart after relocation to North Germany: Sascha Steindl.

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The name itself implies a sense of belonging, yet the store is not only an anchor point for owner Sascha Steindl. It attracts people from all corners of Germany.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Heimathafen

“The name initially meant that a few doors remained closed to us,” laughs Sascha Steindl. The passionate owner of Heimathafen of Eckernförde continues: “Thankfully, nobody suspects us of being a souvenir store anymore.” The idyllic town on the North Sea gained fame as an experimental community during the pandemic. “We still benefit from the news coverage to this day, as we were allowed to reopen while everywhere else remained shuttered.

Eckernförde made it onto the evening news, which gave many people the first idea of where our community of 25,000 people is located. We attracted many customers back then who are still loyal to our store today.”

This is a store one would not expect to find in Eckernförde. Heimathafen blends a great deal of realness in menswear and contemporary in womenswear, while also incorporating renowned home brands. On a personal level for

Sascha, Heimathafen served as an anchor point during a difficult phase in his life: “I moved to Eckernförde for love and stayed for family. The separation was followed by a stroke. Walking, talking – I had to relearn it all.” His second mainstay, a job in sales, had become impossible to maintain. “The responsibility for the store - as well as friends, acquaintances, and customers who remained by my side through this difficult time – is what sustained me,” Sascha recalls with humility. He seeks out the distinctive: “I love people who are really passionate about their product.” The human touch is the glue that holds everything together at Heimathafen. Word has spread that the coolest people congregate in the courtyard lounge. “During the summer, we spend really enjoyable evenings together,” says Sascha happily. The reward for such passion is not only reflected in strong numbers: “A large group of truly great people – including architects, advertisers, and coaches – is very supportive of Heimathafen. They all feel a sense of belonging and want to contribute because this place is dear to their hearts. They help with photos or marketing suggestions. I am always overwhelmed by how much love these people have for Heimathafen.” @heimathafen_eckernfoerde

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es a more compact product range.

After the renovation, the shoe store featur

Erhard Schuh und Mode GmbH/Prien am Chiemsee

IN THE THICK OF IT

Sophie Lubenau provides her community with a daily dose of happiness via the Instagram account of Erhard in Prien am Chiemsee. Does she do it to boost online sales? No, she strives to inspire curiosity for an in-person store visit.

Stephanie Erhard and Sophie Lubenau run their stores with personality and passion.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Erhard Schuh und Mode GmbH

“I am not interested in perfection, but in authenticity,” says Sophie Lubenau.

In her daily reels, she shares the latest trends, preferably spontaneously, without devising a concept in advance.

“Many followers watch our content over their morning coffee. They can sense our love of fashion,” adds Stephanie Erhard. Both sisters attach great importance to the idea that their concept really suits their customers. When the desire for an online shop is expressed, they initiate a social media survey, with the result that most prefer to communicate directly or visit the recently

converted store in person. “This proves that our community likes precisely what is genuine about us,” Sophie Lubenau says. Take, for example, how the sisters chat about the new merchandise in the reels while spontaneously trying on outfits. “We also covered our entire renovation in this manner,” Stephanie Erhard adds. In fact, even more customers come to experience the individual looks of Etro, Otto d’Ame, or Aspesi, as well as fashionable loafers, ankle boots and sneakers in the shoe store next door, in real life. The catchment area

extends across Germany to Austria and Switzerland. “Our community is thriving because we show personality,” Sophie Lubenau insists. They also reach new audiences through targeted advertising on social media and collaborations with influencers. “In the last 30 days, our community has grown by another 900 to 16,750 followers. The daily exchange is what makes them a real community!” www.erhard-gmbh.de style in progress 207

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International Citizen

Marke

Avenir

Jack-of-alltrades Julian Daynov works as a buyer, fashion director, management consultant, and brand scout.

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

PLATFORM FOR NEW GERMAN DESIGN During Pitti Uomo in Florence, Julian Daynov – an international trend scout and consultant with expertise in purchasing, fashion, and brand management – presents the “Neudeutsch” design showcase featuring collections by young, retail-focused menswear brands that call Germany their creative home.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Brands

“In recent decades, German metropolises have served as an incubator for a new wave of innovative design talent inspired by diverse forms of art and design who consider Germany their creative home,” says Julian Daynov.

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He specialises in repositioning brands, as well as developing strategies that facilitate adapting product ranges and aligning brand tonality with current trends and future consumer behaviour. As a prominent industry insider and passionate ambassador for the reinterpretation of traditional gender ideologies, he has co-designed capsule collections for multiple brands, inspiring them with his signature look and personal fashion philosophy beyond traditional gender constructs. “In my mind, ‘Neudeutsch’ precisely reflects this cultural diversity and unveils a range of contemporary aesthetes whose design language is rooted in their respective cultures of origin, yet emerges, thrives, and grows within the German subculture and business landscape.”

The brand selection confronts the cliché of German design. The design installation, which found its home in the Sala delle Nazioni, features, among others, Acceptance Letter Studio, Avenir, Budde, Equality Perfumes, Frnkow, Haderlump, Hernán, International Citizen, J’ai Mal à La Tête, Marke, Muti, Noam, New Tendency, UTI, OBS, OFTT, Sarah Illenberger, and Sebastian Herkner.

WHAT'S THE STORY

“Uncompromisingly future-oriented, versatile, modern, and urban,” is how Quintin Donders describes the completely new Arena Studio collection, a lifestyle spin-off of Italian sports brand Arena.

ARENA STUDIO

“WE ARE JUMPING IN AT THE DEEP END” Arena, the world market leader in water sports, is venturing into completely uncharted territory. With Arena Studio, the company launches an ambitious, urban lifestyle and beachwear total look concept for both men and women, inspired by performance.

Established fashion designers from lifestyle brands and Arena’s product engineers focused on the racing theme to develop a high-tech, futuristic product range. style in progress spoke to Quintin Donders, who leads the start-up within the company.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Arena Studio

Quintin, what is the idea behind Arena Studio?

Quintin Donders, Head of Beachwear Arena: We have amassed a wealth of experience in more than 50 years as the global market leader in swimming competitions, as well as working with our Olympic athletes. As a brand, Arena has broken more than 500 world records in swimming and won over 300 Olympic Gold medals due to revolutionary fit-to-body gear that helps athletes glide through the water.

We want to transfer this know-how of disruptive materials, innovative details, and engineered functional solutions to a year-round urban collection, comprising beachwear in summer. We deliberately start in autumn/winter, underlining how serious we are about urban wear with a 200-piece collection.

How much overlap is there with Arena?

We operate like a grown-up start-up, where design, sourcing, communication, and distribution remain completely independent from our sports performance division. We work according to lifestyle and fashion principles. We tailor the collection to premium lifestyle and fashion retailers with whom we have not yet had any touchpoints, with the aim to win over completely new consumers with the male and female collection.

How would you describe your positioning?

Between key players of urban sportswear like CP Company, Stone Island, Rains, and K-Way – not in streetwear, as other sports brands often do through a heritage line. We only eye the future. The look corresponds to that, always referencing water, for example in the form of hydro-reactive fabrics that change colour when wet. The entire collection is available in black and white only, in reference to our racing division, as well as in some shades of blue and transparencies in reference to water. It emphasises the lightness of the pieces. For our down jackets we only use recycled goose down, as synthetic fibres would have been too heavy. We enjoy high-tech fabrics and versatile pieces that allow layering. The looks are intended for a stroll through the city, but they are sufficiently versatile to be used for any kind of activity and/or sport.

Could you give us an example…

Bodysuits in pure cashmere featuring a small percentage of elastic yarns represent pure fashion, while outerwear featuring graphene – carbon fibres that are infused with nanotechnology to form a material that is 200 times stronger than steel and still lighter than paper – represents pure engineering. We are launching in 10 countries with a total of 19 showrooms; the official launch of the collection will take place in Paris, the global fashion hub, this summer alongside the 2024 Olympic Games in the French capital. style in progress 209

WHAT'S THE STORY

BUGATTI

STRENGTH FOR THE BRAND Next Generation: Managing Director Julius Brinkmann and Bugatti’s first ever Chief Brand Officer Florian Wortmann.

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WHAT'S THE STORY

Bugatti embodies Italian attitude to life with a casual look.

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enerational handover and prominent new appointments: Bugatti, a member of Brinkmann Group, is among the robust players in the industry. Now the brand strives to emotionalize.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Claudia Jordan. Photos: Bugatti

A generational handover is a potential breaking point.

Bugatti was quick to implement this step. Is that the reason why the group has been so resilient in overcoming the challenges of recent years?

Julius Brinkmann, Managing Director of Bugatti: There are many factors, one of which is the generational process. Our success formula involves a firm focus on stability and our brand portfolio: Bugatti, Wilvorst, Pikeur, and Eduard Dressler. With an export ratio of 45 percent, Bugatti is represented in 50-plus countries. The licence business has been expanded steadily. The company has done well in recent decades…

Such decisions are as much about ability as they are about permission. Was the latter assured right from the outset?

Julius Brinkmann: Yes. I was given permission to do my thing and trusted to understand the complexity of the task. Five years ago, I assumed responsibility for international sales, opened markets, and learned that some things fail. Now I am ready for the biggest move: Building the team of tomorrow.

Exactly. The appointment of Florian Wortmann was a strong statement both internally and externally.

Julius Brinkmann: The creation of the new structure involving Florian signifies a professionalisation of brand building. Going forward, we need more emotion to imbue the brand with soul.

Florian, was this clear identity what drove you to take the job?

Florian Wortmann, Chief Brand Officer of Bugatti: Bugatti’s emphasis on emotional appeal is a challenge with the best prerequisites: an international name,

a solid foundation, and a high export ratio with a great product and excellent value for money. The change must involve attracting people to the brand.

Bugatti epitomises a segment that is predicted to face difficult times. The keyword is “German middle class”. What suggests things may turn out differently?

Florian Wortmann (in agreement): The name remains undamaged and completely unencumbered for the next generation. We can move away from the center by utilising the strong brand name and representing an authentic attitude. In the right campaigns, this triggers the right impulses – much like the reach of a new generation with social media.

What will Bugatti’s brand essence ultimately entail?

Florian Wortmann: A brand with heritage does not require reinvention. The story is the fascinating aspect: Bugatti originated from an Italian telephone directory and reflects the Italian

attitude to life with a casual look.

The brand essence is characterised by three values: Passion, pleasure, and community.

Julius Brinkmann: This is the story we intend to develop with Florian. He has proven more than once that brand building is among his strengths.

How would you define the target group?

Florian Wortmann: We strive to become generationally independent. Bugatti may not be for everyone, but it is open to everyone. We aim for the masses.

Julius Brinkmann: We will harness the strength of the brand to achieve this.

How strong is the backing of the licence partners?

Julius Brinkmann: We created the position of Head of Licensing Group in Stephan Horst.

Our partners are independent companies that can rely on the strength of the brand.

Does Bugatti perceive itself as a key partner of specialised retailers?

Julius Brinkmann: That is essential, more than ever. style in progress 211

WHAT'S THE STORY

Formalwear with fresh nonchalance: The Dressler collection.

“Our modernisation opens new doors for us.” – Christian Fenske, Head of Design at Dressler

DRESSLER

FUTUREPROOF After a thorough makeover, the Dressler brand presents itself significantly modernised and ready for new challenges.

Christian Fenske, Head of Design at Dressler, reveals what those are.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Dressler

Dressler epitomises ready-to-wear in the best sense of the word, albeit with a somewhat outdated image. You aim to change that. How? Christian Fenske, Head of Design at Dressler: By completely overhauling the company and the collection – an exciting task for a company with such a rich heritage! We have implemented urgent structural changes and rebranded our logo. The first name Eduard has been dropped from the brand; the label is now clearer and more visible. This 212 style in progress

is an indicator of how much has changed in the collection.

What specifically?

We have significantly revitalised it in terms of fashion and are well underway towards creating modern classics. The quiet luxury trend is working in our favour here, as it enhances the classic look. Casualness comes from styling. This is why we are investing a great deal of energy in developing a collection that can be customised to create a modern look.

For us, this is key to appealing to new target groups. Our growth in export sales proves that we are on the right track.

The keyword is internationalization.

Yes, these achievements motivate us to think beyond European borders. This is one reason why we are returning to Pitti Uomo, the most important international trade show for men’s fashion. We have high hopes for our appearance in Florence.

Does the "Made in Europe" claim hold any weight?

Absolutely. Maintaining production in Europe not only affords us greater control and transparency, as required by the new Supply Chain Act, but also enables us to manufacture to a high standard. Quality without compromise remains our greatest asset.

WHAT'S THE STORY

High fashion-grade, perfect service, and spades of ambition: JNBY.

JNBY

EUROPE IN FOCUS The wave was slowly building, now it is time to surf it. JNBY specialises in exceptional, recognisable, and fashionable down jackets – and now also offers cashmere coats. A European roll-out for greater visibility is imminent.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: JNBY

The four letters encapsulate professionalism from Asia, where JNBY is an established player with almost 2,000 points of sale. Now the

focus is shifting to the European business. Via Modeist, the sales agency for Germany and Austria, Marcona3 was engaged as a powerful showroom for Europe. Reliable logistics are provided by a German distribution company that maintains a stock of up to 1,500 jackets, providing the perfect foundation for maximum service orientation, bestseller management, reordering, and customer service. “We strive to support our customers in the best possible way.

Jackets tend to tie up a great deal of capital, so it pays to optimise inventory management in collaboration with retailers,” says Michael Bax, Managing Director of Fashion Holding Düsseldorf. JNBY has a comprehensive answer for retail partners interested in closer cooperation. “Spaces, franchises like in Berlin, or pop-ups – we are open to all kinds of formats,” says Timothy Hoferer, co-owner of Modeist.

“The brand has great potential, extending far beyond the iconic jacket styles.”

After achieving overnight success, the focus now shifts to expanding and cementing a foothold in Europe.

GLOBAL APPROACH

JNBY has ambitious goals and is keen to gain visibility for its creativity. “Initial success in German-speaking countries came overnight, simply because the product itself works. I cannot remember the last time we experienced that. The brand is capable of much more,” says Timothy Hoferer. With its fashion-savvy approach, JNBY consistently occupies the price range with the greatest sales potential, striking the right price/performance balance. This also applies to the brand’s latest coup, a selection of woollen, cashmere-blend coats, fashionably on point featuring high-quality details and all the features that also make JNBY’s down unique. style in progress 213

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CIFF/REVOLVER

“LIFETIME CUSTOMERS ARE GAINED AT TRADE SHOWS” What a buzz! Following the acquisition of Revolver, the CIFF/Revolver pairing has joined Copenhagen Fashion Week in the premier league of trade show venues.

Not least because the event is a pioneer of topics such as circular fashion. style in progress spoke to CIFF Director Sofie Dolva.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: CIFF/Revolver

No other topic in our industry is as hotly debated as trade shows. How can they retain relevance?

Sofie Dolva, Director at CIFF: I believe that they are now merely a medium-term source of orders. The combination of showrooms and trade show creates a unique situation here at the Bella Centre. Other than that, trade shows are a networking platform. It is important to have a place where everyone can come together, precisely because supply chains and branding strategies are evolving so rapidly. I understand our role as one of matchmaking between buyers, press, and brands, which is why we developed our concierge programme. We individualize our curated brand selection to meet the exact needs of our visitors.

Many in the premium and contemporary womenswear segment bemoan the lack of a leading platform providing a feel for the latest trends. Is CIFF/Revolver ready to claim this role?

I call it date-gate, as no other topic is discussed as frequently as dates. We surveyed our stakeholders and respect the democratic result for the current schedule. Not least because we do not wish to detach ourselves from Copenhagen Fashion Week. Commu214 style in progress

nication as One Copenhagen was crucial for generating international buzz. That does, however, not change the fact that we continue to deliberate on how often trade shows should take place in an ever-evolving industry.

Because you cannot demand sustainability and then board a plane every week?

It is all about resources and how we deploy them to gain lifetime customers at trade shows. Perhaps this rush is not the right approach, and it would be more effective to focus on new opportunities once a year? For example, we now offer our talks and all the educational content on four dates a year and in a podcast instead of at the actual trade show. Very few people have time for such things at the event itself, during which we would rather celebrate together!

One Copenhagen is the magical motto: CIFF/Revolver and Copenhagen Fashion Week are moving forward as one. Sofie Dolva, Director at CIFF/Revolver, is a key architect of this alliance.

WHAT'S THE STORY

Scandinavian Edition is characterised by its particularly understated look.

SCANDINAVIAN EDITION

OUTDOOR FUNCTIONALITY IN AN URBAN LOOK Scandinavian Edition jackets prioritise minimalist design and maximum functionality. The Norwegian brand offers super-light, timeless premium outerwear, sensational to the touch. It also delivers the perfect blend of elegant simplicity and record-breaking protection against wind, rain, and cold.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Scandinavian Edition

It started as a friends and family business.

In 2010, Eystein Wang from Oslo teamed up with a Stockholm advertising agency to launch the brand and manufacture the first 100 jackets. The idea was to offer an alternative to woollen coats that was exceptionally simple, comfortable, and lightweight, while still defying the harsh Scandinavian weather conditions. Today, the jackets are worn by a wide range of celebrities, including the Prince of Denmark and international stars

such as Hugh Grant and Kit Harington, as well as numerous athletes and TV presenters such as Laura Wontorra, Marco Reus, Giulia Gwinn, Mats Hummels. In cooperation with Sören in Hagen, the brand clothes the BVB Dortmund Champions League team, as well as musicians including Andreas Bourani, Tim Bendzko, Mark Foster, and Revolverheld.

With a 20,000-water column, the collection’s top models need not fear comparison with any ski or rain jacket. Taped seams and a choice of RDS-certified down filling or Thermore lining ensure weather protection and comfort. The autumn/winter 2024 range features 18 models for men and eleven for women, each in three to six colours. Retail prices for winter jackets range from 400 to 850 Euros, while summer jackets cost between 269 and 500 Euros. Key accounts include Greta & Luis, My Classico, Hirmer, My Meissner, Dipol, Weber St. Gallen, and Ledergerber, as well as CPH Fashion in Zurich and Bern. In the DACH region and the Benelux countries, Scandinavian Edition handles sales itself with support from Lagom Agency. The brand is also represented in Scandinavia, Lithuania, France, the UK, and the US – with plans to expand into Canada, Japan, and South Korea in the future. The collection can be viewed at Pitti, Supreme, and CIFF. www.scandinavianedition.com style in progress 215

WHAT'S THE STORY

The Man/Woman Show takes place in Paris and New York. Here are some impressions from the New York event.

Antoine Floch, founder of Man/ Woman Show, and Lenny Guerrier, Sales & Development Director.

MAN/WOMAN SHOW

“WHO SHOULD WE GROW FOR?” Man/Woman Show, which takes place in Paris and New York, perceives itself as “the human scale trade show”. Founder Antoine Floch has been addressing a close-knit community for twelve years.

Since the advent of the pandemic, Man/ Woman Show has further augmented its community spirit.

Such an international audience is rare.

Lenny Guerrier, Sales & Development Director of Man/Woman Show: 85 percent of our Paris visitors are not from France. In New York, almost 85 percent of the visitors are from North America. That is the whole point, really. After all, New York acts as a springboard to that particular market for our European portfolio brands.

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How do you select new exhibitors?

We screen the current and desired customers of potential exhibitors and match them with our visitors. If there is an overlap, we move forward. We feel responsible for our recommendations, have a really deep connection with our retailers, and travel a fair amount.

As soon as the fairs are over, we look at all the stores that approach us, feature them on our website, and initiate a dialogue with them. Given our in-depth knowledge of our brands, the basis of any hall planning is how exhibitors can stimulate each other. This is a very natural process. We did not choose “human scale trade show” as a subline by chance.

Are you tempted to grow to pre-pandemic volumes?

For whom? The number of stores we love so much is dwindling by the year. Independent retail is becoming the exception in any city, not the rule. That means we do not expect increasing visitor numbers.

You perceive yourselves as lobbyists for independent labels.

That’s crazy, is it not? In today’s fashion journalism, independent brands rarely find a stage. We need to tap into other channels to communicate the specificity of our brands.

Ok, now I am curious.

What is the answer to the mainstream fashion press ignoring independent brands? The stores themselves have assumed the responsibility of communication and are doing a fantastic job!

WHAT'S THE STORY

Maximilian Meissner loves to experiment.

SELDOM

“WE ARE THE NICHE WITHIN THE NICHE” What characterizes knitwear made in Germany? In the case of Seldom, the answer entails short distances and an opportunity for Maximilian Meissner and his father Rolf Meissner to devote a great deal of time and effort to yarn development. Maximilian Meissner explains why this benefits retailers.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Seldom

The Seldom brand is divided into two lines. The Meisterstücke range entails pieces made of purely natural fibres, while the Statements range offers more fashionable silhouettes and novel yarn blends. Especially the latter is experiencing a great deal of change.

Maximilian Meissner, owner of Seldom: Yes. We have, for example, developed our all-year knitwear in this segment, for which we blended cotton and linen with an effect yarn for a fluffier feel. Now a new demand for knitwear at retail prices between 200 and 280 Euros is emerging in the retail sector. A price range that we intend to strengthen.

Exciting. How? With special yarn blends. For the new autumn/winter collection, we have developed new qualities made of 50 percent pure merino wool and 50 percent recycled

merino wool, as well as knitwear made of baby alpaca containing merino. The first prototypes look fantastic! Quality and durability remain the same, as does the retail price between 220 and 280 Euros.

At higher retail prices, i.e. between 320 and 390 Euros, we are bolstering our knitwear made of 50 percent merino wool and recycled cashmere. The fabric is lighter than pure merino wool and has an even softer feel, with the same pilling properties. I believe we are probably the only ones who can achieve this with such haptics.

Seldom symbolises seamless knitwear that allows rapid re-production in small batches.

This, in turn, benefits retailers, who can replenish stocks just in time. It is our absolute credo to first order a small batch before reordering what the consumer demands. Despite raw materials increasing in price, we strive to maintain what we represent: a customised specialist product at realistic prices. www.seldom.se

Both fashionable and durable: Seldom is on display in the Niklas Rill Agency showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich from mid-January to February. style in progress 217

WHAT'S THE STORY

Kennel & Schmenger’s high quality standards are reflected in the new production halls.

KENNEL & SCHMENGER

DESIGN AND QUALITY WITH AN UNMISTAKABLE SIGNATURE Shoemaking is and remains manual labour.

On average, a shoe comprises 125 individual parts. At the Kennel & Schmenger manufactory, each shoe goes through at least 150 production steps without any automated processes. The craftspersonship of the employees in Pirmasens remains the key asset.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Kennel & Schmenger

“Our primary objective – and greatest challenge – is to retain our production site in Germany and pass the expertise we have acquired over the last 100 years to the next generation,” explains CEO, shareholder, and Head of Design Andreas Klautzsch. The shoe manufacturer’s assembly factory, which was founded in 1918, was completely refurbished in summer 2023. The focus was not only on meeting the latest technological standards, but also on ecological modernisation, including more efficient energy generation via photovoltaic systems across the entire roof area.

“As an established premium brand looking to break into the luxury sector, we plan to continue investing in the site,” explains Klautzsch. Kennel & Schmenger has been a member of the Leather 218 style in progress

Andreas Klautzsch is a trained shoemaker, design modeller, and studied design in Milan.

Working Group, a non-profit organisation that promotes best practices and positive social and environmental changes for responsible leather production, since 2022. “We have always manufactured slow fashion and optimise our processes to steadily reduce our carbon footprint,” he adds. The company has operated two additional production facilities in Hungary since 2001. The brand employs a total of 500 people. Many of the components are sourced from Italy, which ensures short supply chains.

Wholesale customers benefit from the flexibility of placing single pair orders via the B2B online shop. They also profit from high-quality product photos, studio and lifestyle images for their own online shop, and social media channels. “The challenge for a modern premium label is to remain in tune with the zeitgeist, evoke emotions, and be in touch with the markets at the same time.”

WHAT'S THE STORY

Joseph Reiter manages the brands Traiano, Pure, and Hatico.

TRAIANO

MILANESE STYLE, GERMAN MANAGEMENT Traiano, the smart fabric shirt, impresses with a new back-up. style in progress spoke to Managing Director Joseph Reiter.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Traiano

“With our Pure shirt brand, we are one of the main buyers of this magical product,” says Joseph Reiter, explaining the reason why Traiano is now managed from Tirschenreuth in the Upper Palatinate. In 2014, he decided to join the family business, which sells around 600,000 shirts a year through Pure, Hatico, and, since 2022, Traiano. The brand jewel from Milan gives the company’s portfolio a new high edge. “An ultra-clean shirt produced in a fibre known from yoga or activewear,” or from road cycling, which Joseph Reiter is passionate about. “The wearability is unique, it is easy to wash, dries quickly, and – compared to any non-iron fabric – it can actually be worn without ironing. We need to be careful not to sound like we produce a performance product when praising the fantastic properties of our fabric. After all, the design language is that of a clean, modern business shirt, the casualness stems from the wearing comfort.”

Joseph Reiter is certain that anyone who feels this lightweight fabric is hooked. “Initially, Traiano primarily offered printed qualities, but we are moving away from that in favour of solid colours, stripes, and knitted

Italian style, German management: Traiano.

patterns.” The focus on shirts has strengthened the brand, as has the German service strength. “We maintain a NOS stock of 10,000 shirts, which can be easily reordered via the Fashioncloud fulfilment system,” explains Reiter. As of this season, Henning Kaesebier’s High Five Brands handles sales.

“We have great reference customers such as Lodenfrey. Now we aim to convince retailers to explore depth with us.” This is made possible by tried and tested structures. Nevertheless, Joseph Reiter considers Traiano to be a “more niche product that requires advice within a stylistic environment – and harbours real potential in this combination of service and style.” www.traiano.com style in progress 219

WHAT'S THE STORY

One-of-a-kind features and uniqueness: 40WEFT.

40WEFT

EVERYTHING IS RIGHT! Leader of its class in Italy: 40WEFT represents trousers with a strong identity, expressed in exclusive fabrics, special details, and innovative spirit. Now the brand is conquering the German market.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: 40WEFT

40WEFTs USP entails special treatments that lend its trousers their one-of-a-kind features and an excellent price/performance ratio unlike any other trousers brand. This is made possible by the structures of parent company Black Sheep, which has reliably operated in the fashion market since 1957, thanks to its own production. The birth of 40WEFT in the mid-1990s marked the crowning achievement of growth in terms of international standing and technical expertise. Now in its third generation, creativity, quality, and pride are the pillars of the company.

The brand name is inspired by the compactness and strength of the “super libertador” – a twisted cotton gabardine material 220 style in progress

developed in Colombia in 1981. An amazing 40 weft threads run through the warp.

Proudly designed in the heart of Tuscany, with regional agents, 40WEFT has grown to 500 trading partners in Italy. Now, the model is being rolled out in Germany.

The brand is starting to prove its competence to the market in a new set-up – initially utilizing a classic pre-order model with the intention of building up a performance-oriented reorder service step-by-step. 40WEFT has managed to set up a strong sales team with the help of Creatore Consulting. In each region, it is represented by top agencies which have maintained the best contacts with important retailers for many years.

Perfectly balanced between uniqueness and commerciality, 40WEFT sets out to become a long-term partner – as specialist retailers are what the heart of the brand beats for.

Since its inception, Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence marks the start of 40WEFT’s new cycle. The brand’s stand always catches the eye with its original design. A brand world in which one can lose oneself and discover upcoming trends.

WHAT'S THE STORY

T e l l m e a Sto ry

Outerwear defined by design and quality: Montecore.

MONTECORE

SARTORIAL OUTERWEAR Fabio Peroni’s greatest passion is creating perfect hybrids. Montecore’s minimalist, timeless look conceals intelligent and innovative performance. This makes Montecore jackets the perfect choice for people who are constantly on the move, both in spirit and in real life.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Montecore

International key accounts rub shoulders at Casa Montecore in Milan’s Via Montenapoleone. One begins to wonder: where does this momentum of Montecore originate from? The brand, founded in 2006 by Fabio Peroni, has been consistent in design, style, and values in an exemplary manner since its inception – a thoroughly honest label that has forged its very own symbiosis of Italian tailoring and innovation. What looks like a timeless jacket is always much more. High-quality bi-stretch fabrics are combined with practical features such as rain protection. From the design of the men’s and women’s jackets to the craftsmanship in production and the outstanding fit: Montecore delivers a convincing overall

concept. “When a garment is created, we regard it as combining art with craftsmanship,” smiles Fabio Peroni.

FULL OF CHARACTER

The brand’s manifesto not only defines its values, but it also sets it apart from fast fashion.

The fact that Montecore managed to maintain its prices in the upper-premium range while setting ever higher standards for itself and its international image is proving worthwhile at a time when many competitors are attempting to trade up. “We do not consider quality to be a trend, but rather an attitude of choosing timeless pieces that you live with, love, and perhaps even pass on to the next generation.

We perceive Montecore as a new approach to experiencing outerwear,” says Fabio Peroni.

“This positions Montecore perfectly for the German-speaking market,” states Select Studio owner Bernard Waage confidently. www. montecore.it style in progress 221

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EA

WHAT'S THE STORY

Let your thoughts go on a journey! Whether in a neighboring country or in the wider world, a change of perspective is essential for one's own creativity. It's no wonder that in places of inspiration, the antennae for shopping are wide open, too. Here, shopping is a form of self-care; after all, these souvenirs remain connected to the beautiful time spent in a beautiful place - for the entire life of the product. Another journey, no less inspiring, are all the stages before the actual product: Science and fiction alike.

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C r e at i v i t y

C r e at i v i t y

WHAT'S THE STORY

WHERE TRANSFORMATION IN FASHION IS ACTUALLY UNFOLDING The future of the fashion industry is not determined in brand agencies or stores, but in factories. After all, the majority of problems stem from the latter. The textile industry causes massive greenhouse gas emissions, is involved in deforestation, and commits human rights violations. All these factors are reflected in balance sheets as risks and costs, while the exploitation of resources and people is coming up against new legal constraints. Not to mention the fact that customers are keen to support ideas that make the world a better place – or at least not a worse place. It is therefore prudent to support innovations in textile production and processing. We highlight seven key areas. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Interviewees.

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WHAT'S THE STORY

KNOW YOUR RESOURCES! All fabrics and fibres contain raw materials.

But which ones? Commonly used cotton consumes a great deal of water, land, and pesticides, while climate change is causing yields to decline and prices to rise. Consequently, synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon now dominate the industry. They are made from crude oil, which is nothing more than plastic, meaning they release microplastics and do not decompose. Yet who actually notices? Fashion waste from Europe is carted off to Africa and Asia, where it pollutes the landscape, water, and air. The textile industry is frantically searching for solutions, something that becomes apparent at trade fairs. “It is crucial to us to serve as the innovation, product, and knowledge platform for the textile manufacturing and textile processing industry,” says Sabine Scharrer, Director of Techtextil and Texprocess.

Fashion brands determine whether they remain dinosaurs or not with their choice of suppliers. And in-store, customers expect accountability. What do the words on the label actually mean? The supporting program of Munich Fabric Start, for example, provides inspiration for knowledge transfer.

At any rate, Managing Director Sebastian Klinder states: “It is important to us to ensure that a certain amount of edutainment is always incorporated. In other words, we do not merely deliver dry presentations on stages and forums, but also provide stimulating, inspiring, and positive food for thought.”

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C r e at i v i t y

BEWARE, YOUR DRESS IS MADE OF WOOD! The source, production, and marketability of raw materials are key aspects that manufacturers and retailers should investigate.

Viscose or rayon, for example, are derived from cellulose, the main component of plant cell walls. Their raw material is a tree, which is why these materials are considered natural. However, a great many chemicals are required to transform wood into a soft material, which can poison workers, residents, and nature.

Moreover, 30 percent of cellulose is produced by cutting down ancient forests, which intensifies heat waves. This is why the industry is seeking sustainable sources of cellulose. In the case of Tencel, Lenzing has opted for quality seals that guarantee the wood is sourced from plantations or sustainable forestry. Others are turning their backs on the tree altogether. HeiQ Aeoniq yarns, marketed as a substitute for polyester, utilise waste materials and bacteria. Researchers are also analysing fungi, as well as other plants, for their suitability in fabric production. We have algae leather and nettle fabric, shoe soles made of vineyard refuse, and silk-like fabrics made of orange peels. Such innovations are complex, the brochures vague. It helps to ask the question: What does it mean for the world if this fibre is mass-produced?

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LOOK BEYOND EUROPE! Fashion not only produces mountains of waste, but also greenhouse gases. Solar-powered stores are certainly a step in the right direction. However, retailers can achieve much more by working towards climate protection in upstream stages. According to a study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 15 percent of greenhouse gases in the fashion industry are caused by yarn production, 28 percent by fibre preparation, and 36 percent by finishing. Most of these steps take place in the global South, a region that often lacks alternatives to fossil

fuels. Images of a collapsed textile factory or rivers full of toxic dyeing chemicals illustrate how many areas of the fashion industry have not made any significant progress in 200 years. The old problems are now just far away.

Almost as unnoticed, bright minds are devising solutions. LiteHide of Singapore developed a tanning process that reduces salt and water consumption back in 2006.

Fermentech Labs of India harnesses waste from agriculture and forestry to produce enzymes that remove the protective film on the warp threads of woven fabrics. Some factories in countries such as Brazil, Colombia, and Bangladesh employ closed systems that demonstrate what a circular economy can achieve in the 21st century.

Such progress can be spurred on by government funding, while the financial sector is equally in demand as a source of funding.

OVERCOME THE INDIGNATION! The success of an innovation does not hinge on money alone; it also depends on demand. “Negative attitudes towards certain materials or practices can hinder the acceptance of innovations,” argues Sebastian Klinder. Some leather and fur companies are debating whether to refocus or close down, and now wool is coming under fire. The public opposes the brutal methods used to remove the hair of cashmere goats and fur farming in tiny cages, and rightly so.

Yet some companies that are pursuing different approaches are still struggling. Envie Heartwork of Vienna, for example, reuses discarded fur coats as trimmings for parkas, and US brand Righteous Fur manufactures fur fashion from invasive nutria that threaten marshlands in Louisiana. When outrage provokes a taboo, it not only affects discontinued concepts, but also new ideas.

Klinder believes it is the industry’s responsibility to educate and engage in dialogue, but also to ensure transparency and develop solutions together.

5

BE HONEST (AND INDEPENDENT)!

Sizes zero to four dominate the catwalks from New York to Paris in autumn 2023.

This could not be further removed from reality. In the US, the average size for women is 16 to 18, in Germany 42/44, which means that a vast target group literally cannot find anything to wear in supposedly conventional stores. Yet patterns can be graded to realistic body shapes in an instant using digital technology. Companies such as Taas of New York test their fit virtually: 3D models “wear” digital reproductions of the desired fabrics. By eliminating physical samples, this method saves money and time, while avoiding waste.

Another approach is size-independent ready-to-wear, which accompanies people through yoyo effects of all kinds. While designers are experimenting with wrapping techniques, lacing, and button-on extensions, the focus in other preliminary stages is on elastic fibres. Given that crude oil is the base ingredient for spandex and elastane, the transition is still somewhat halting. Sorona and QIRA are (only) partly based on corn, while Roica, S. Leisure, and Econyl Vita rely on reduced energy use, recycled synthetic fibres, or both.

SCRUTINISE THE TERM “RECYCLED”!

Opinions sometimes get hung up on improvements that are in fact nothing of the sort. The fashion industry does not need plastic bottles or fishing nets to knit jackets. With polyester, nylon, and the like, it creates more than enough plastic waste itself, which it then fails to recycle. Less than one percent of clothing is recycled worldwide. Rather than grappling with waste recycling, it would make more sense to produce less in the first place.

Nevertheless, recycling is an innovation catalyst in the textile industry. The switch to a circular economy is one reason, as is an EU regulation that textile waste must be collected separately from 2025.

Mixed fabrics pose a huge problem: a hint of elastane means that a pair of jeans ends up in the bin and not on the recycling pile.

Different materials require different processing. Unfortunately, the textile world of today is dominated by polycotton. Hardly

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WHAT'S THE STORY

THREE UPSTREAM CHALLENGES any dresses are still made of pure cotton or wool, and the components of the blend often remain a mystery. Many researchers are looking to solve this problem. The Fraunhofer Institute, for example, is developing an artificial intelligence fibre recognition app for smartphones. Circ offers a process that utilises hot water, pressure, and chemicals to break down fibres such as polyester and cotton. The first collection recycled in this way has since been created – in collaboration with fast fashion giant Zara.

TURN THE SUPPLY CHAIN INTO A CENTERPIECE! While some still bemoan the challenges of a digital product passport, brands such as Amendi and Asket have turned transparency into a selling point. No doubt, supply chain legislation is fuelling innovation. The textile industry now employs technologies ranging from RFID for labelling to TrusTrace for administration. Let’s not forget the language barriers that need to be overcome on the journey from the alpaca farmer in the Andes to the store in the foothills of the Alps.

It would be easier to have everything close by, but it seems unlikely that the textile industry will return to Europe completely.

“This is impossible on a larger scale, as the corresponding capacities are not available,” says Susanne Pass, Managing Director of Dialog Textil-Bekleidung. She not only refers to costs and labour shortages in Europe, but also to social responsibility overseas. Some long-standing suppliers have invested heavily in improvements and – for example in Bangladesh – established exemplary businesses. No matter where, progress is in demand because it reduces costs. “The challenge is to balance environmental responsibility, ethical production, and economic success,” Klinder explains.

He therefore recommends factoring the rest of the world into the calculation, which also entails working towards a free and peaceful world.

What experts say about change in the textile industry

CIRCULAR ECONOMY

“Circular economy is a mega-topic.

A number of intelligent, mechanical, and chemical recycling processes are under development. The upcoming EU regulation that requires the separate collection of textile waste from 2025 is an equally constructive catalyst for the industry.”

Sabine Scharrer, Director of Techtextil and Texprocess

MARKET DIVERSITY

“An innovative product can be received completely differently in different markets. Think, for example, of the handling of data protection, the prioritisation of social or ecological sustainability issues, or even such mundane aspects as the climate-related relevance of inherent product properties and finishes.”

Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start

CLIMATE CRISIS AND LEGISLATION

“I consider everything associated with the upcoming requirements of the EU Green Deal to be a major current challenge. It not only affects sustainability reporting, the eco-design regulation, and the digital product passport, but also the topics of recycling and recyclability in general. We currently have neither the necessary infrastructure nor the logistical prerequisites for many of these requirements.”

Susanne Pass, Managing Director of Dialog Textil-Bekleidung

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“WE TRANSFER THE STRONG CULTURE OF OUR COMPANIES TO A STYLE UNIVERSE.” Daniel Steindorf, former owner of Uebervart Frankfurt, now head of the new company.

Hotel stores and an online shop that sells more than just classic merchandising goods: The range includes brands such as James Perse, Stockholm Surfboard Club, and Western Hydronamic Research.

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HOSPI TALITY NO ROOMS

IS THE NEW KEY TO COMMUNITIES

Gekko Group continues to pioneer new trends with its hotels, restaurants, and clubs. Now the company has recruited former Uebervart owner Daniel Steindorf, a retail expert who seeks to weave consumption into the stay with a holistic approach.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: No Rooms

You sold Uebervart in Frankfurt to the Deichmann Group and left after three years there. Was it always clear to you that there would be no return to traditional retail?

Daniel Steindorf, General Manager of No Rooms: I firmly believe the future cannot be shaped with old concepts. For me, the city as a destination no longer exists. In some cases, individual retailers can be considered destinations, but the new destinations are hotels, restaurants, and clubs.

Gekko Group ventures are prime examples. How natural was this connection?

There were several obvious reasons.

Alex Urseanu and Micky Rosen, the founders of Gekko Group, were clients of Uebervart for many years and we have been friends for 20 years. We always talked about doing something together.

Is a hotel t-shirt a souvenir or a lifestyle item?

Definitely a lifestyle item, because it requires culture and community to even want to wear a t-shirt featuring the name of a hotel. Kith is not much different; there, too, a shirt shows that you belong. Gekko Group’s ventures all share a very distinctive “own culture”, so I thought it was obvious to expand on this affiliation.

Specifically t-shirts, caps, and key rings? Or something more sophisticated?

Sophisticated, because we create exclusive items by collaborating with Ina Seifart or Alpha Industries, for example. In the on-site stores – some of which are smaller, others in locations such as Munich and Frankfurt larger – the ratio between brands and private labels is roughly 50/50. The private label itself is split 50/50 between souvenirs and fashion. The idea always involved many little things that are fun and, as expected, they have been a success from the outset.

A healthy middle ground?

Yes, something I currently cannot discern in traditional fashion retail.

The gap between the absolute service orientation of independent retailers, who are always required to deliver even more, and the exclusivity of the brands, which I feel is getting out of hand, is becoming increasingly grotesque – both in terms of price and scarcity. A seasoned customer has no interest in queuing. They want to buy the sneaker. At some point, you simply no longer wish to participate in this circus of chasing the most exclusive product.

Is it partly because the sneaker no longer retains value?

Value is certainly subjective, but I agree with the observation that the value promise is often broken. The promise was silent luxury, yet we got overpriced junk. To put it less bluntly, we received goods that did not live up to their claim.

Is a holiday the new status symbol and is that why you might be tempted to buy a cap featuring the logo of your favourite hotel?

Certainly, especially as a cap by a label begs the question: “Oh, that’s all you got?” It feels different when you return with a product from a destination. style in progress 229

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HOTELS ARE THE NEW CLUBS

This is where people from all around the globe party, date, work, and post embodiments of their lifestyle.

Resorts, wellness hotels, and healthcare retreats have emerged as the cultural hotspots of the moment.

An increasing number of stylish destinations are staging their own lifestyle world of culinary delights, wellness, and luxury. Experience shopping is the logical consequence of this approach, as it allows you to reach a high-class clientele at the best possible time. Detached from B2B logics, a new luxury market is developing. Text: Isabel Faiss, Martina Müllner. Photos: Stores

“Corthea is the ideal partner to convey our lifestyle and our definition of luxury,” says Martina Schmidl (right) about her collaboration with Marie Haim-Swarovski, Managing Director of Corthea in Innsbruck.

Ayms & Corthea/Innsbruck

“Meeting the Community Where It Spends Its Time” Exclusive travel destinations set their own target group filter organically through the service and lifestyle they embody.

Brands can address a high concentration of their core community in such environments. Martina Schmidl, founder of athletic wellbeing lifestyle brand Ayms and owner of brand management agency Leoon, always seeks success beyond fashion retail and concept stores. Corthea in Innsbruck is an excellent example.

Martina, what do healthcare centers like Corthea offer that traditional retail does not?

Martina Schmidl, owner of Ayms: From the outset, an essential part of our distribution strategy was to strive for partnerships with retreats, hotels, and resorts, on account of the fact that Ayms is a very expansive brand that is just as well placed in this environment as in a classic department store. The target groups overlap significantly, and brand awareness is high.

Only a relatively small group of travel destinations has carved out a niche in this highest of leagues. Does the topic hold the potential to expand?

This industry is booming. As a guest lecturer at ISM, I supervise the Luxury Fashion Management course. I regularly have my students review the relevant McKinsey studies. What I perceive is that travel in combination with luxury, wellness, and health is the growth market of the coming years.

How much support do you, as a brand, need to provide when you work with a partner outside the industry?

We maintain a very close relationship with our partners, which is important when their core business is not retailing fashion. Yet we love how authentic their brand content communication is. That is so refreshing!

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La Boutique Les Bains/Paris

HOTEL STORE? NEXT LEVEL! Photos: Guillaume Grasset

“Les Bains are a state of mind, a place where creative minds meet. At our concept store, we share our creative vision in a particular setting designed by the collective Les Diplomates,” says Sarah Valensi of Les Bains about the in-hotel boutique. The store not only stocks the Les Bains brand, but also capsule collections with brands such as Closed, Officine Generale, and Pierre Hardy. This famous luxury hotel owes its name to the first thermal baths of Paris, which opened here in 1885.

Rosewood & The Webster/Montecito, USA

PARTNERSHIP PAR EXCELLENCE

The Rosewood Group, based in the US, announced its partnership with Miami-based luxury concept store The Webster in July 2023.

Since last autumn, temporary pop-up stores have sprung up in selected Rosewood hotels around the world to complement The Webster’s existing permanent concept store in Miramar Beach, Montecito. Both companies share common roots: The Webster owes its name to the historic hotel in South Beach, which founder and CEO Laure Heriard Dubreuil converted into a department store in 2009. On the latest collaboration, she remarks: “The Webster continues to expand its physical footprint via this pop-up format. The strategy at the heart of our brand is to go where our clients enjoy spending time.”

The Ritz-Carlton & Fifth Avenue Club/ Laguna Beach, USA

SERVICE EN SUITE

With the Fifth Avenue Club, Saks Fifth Avenue first established its super exclusive private shopping suite format in-house, before rolling out this concept in cooperation with Marriott Resorts and most recently with The Ritz Carlton Hotel in Laguna Beach in June 2023.

“Building on the success of our iconic in-store Fifth Avenue Club experience, this innovative new format allows us to expand Saks Fifth Avenue’s highly personalised service into new markets,” says Larry Bruce, President of Saks Fifth Avenue. The key to the Club Suite is the service. Prior to a visit, the customer contacts their stylist either in person or virtually, who then compiles a selection from surrounding Saks stores and presents it in the suite. style in progress 231

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Villa Olivia/Leimen

FROM SOFA TO LIPSTICK For two years now, store manager Sabine Riglewski has been cultivating the Villa Olivia concept store as part of the Village Hotel Villa Toskana in Leimen. What immediately catches the eye is the high-class product range. Villa Olivia stocks brands such as Purschoen, Les tricots de Léa, Ilse Jacobsen, Gianni Chiarini, and Unio, as well as – from spring/summer 2024 onwards – Dea Kudibal, Maliparmi, Robert Friedmann, and several other well-known brands. The list of selected products that Sabine Riglewski showcases for her customers is growing. “The buying process is all me. I attend order appointments, travel to trade shows, and meet sales representatives,” the experienced buyer describes her professional approach, which elevates the hotel store genre to the next level. Villa Olivia benefits from the fact that its manager is an industry professional: She previously ran her own store in Munich for 20 years.

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Six Senses & Agora/Ibiza

SHOPPING DELUXE Like her colleague Tiffanie Darke, Daniela Agnelli is a fashion journalist. Her extensive experience in the industry most recently led her to Vogue International, where she was instrumental in the launch of Vogue Arabia, Vogue Poland, and Vogue Greece. The duo developed their vision to share their knowledge of fashion in an even more direct way. They then met Jonathan Leitersdorf, owner of the newly opened Six Senses Luxury Resort in Ibiza, who immediately liked the idea of an exceptionally well-curated fashion store under the umbrella of sustainability.

In our interview, Daniela explains why Six Senses is the perfect place for this concept.

Daniela, what do your clients expect of Agora? Where do you see differences to a typical department store?

Daniela Agnelli: The difference is that you have more fun, opportunity, and time to enjoy the shopping experience. That is not comparable to how you shop in a city. At Agora, we can create this kind of emotion that is really unique. Our clients are more available and open to listening to a story, most likely because they are on holiday. It is a much more conscious way of shopping. We wanted to establish a space for guests that strive to buy, not merely consume. The owner of Six Senses approached us because he had this beautiful vacant space that he wanted to transform into more than just another hotel boutique, something more meaningful. And here we are!

Sustainability is a much used – and sometimes abused – term. How do you define it?

WHAT'S THE STORY

For us, sustainability means so much more than simply using organic materials. We decided to divide it into four chapters: reduce, recycle, restore, and rent. Every brand in our store falls under one of those chapters. Every brand has a different story, and we tell it as part of our Agora journey.

How does the rental service work?

We call this service the Cinderella Rental Rail because you can rent a dress for a night. This is a good way to breathe second life into a dress, over and over again. Our Cinderella service is doing very well, especially for guests visiting for a wedding or any other event. Men and women are provided with an opportunity to rent a dress – and we even expanded this service to include local people. This idea has been reported heavily by the press, because it is unusual, especially in hospitality.

Tiffanie Drake (left) and Daniela Agnelli created Agora as a storytelling space in which they can promote and share the stories of their carefully curated brands and products. The ultimate aim is to inspire customers to embrace a sustainable lifestyle.

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Aletto Pop-Up Station/Berlin

SHOP AROUND THE CLOCK

The Pop-Up Station in Aletto Hotel on Potsdamer Platz provides ample space for creative store concepts.

Maison Thiel/Noordhoek, South Africa

SWAPPING STORE FOR HOLIDAY HOME

The sale of his second store made the dream of establishing a domicile in South Africa possible for Daniel Thiel: “The idea is that the interior can be purchased like in a regular store. If you sleep really well on the bed, we arrange for you to have it at home.” Maison Thiel combines many aspects: “It represents our dream, yes. Yet it also reflects the fact that people are currently more likely to invest in an extraordinary holiday. Interior and beauty both play an important role in my boutique in Wiesbaden, so the step to Maison Thiel is not as big as it may seem. Besides, I have learned to be flexible.” Booking available from autumn 2024.

The Pop-Up Station was developed as a hybrid concept for temporary exhibitions, trade shows, and store projects. Felix Stroppel of Aletto Hotel on Potsdamer Platz explains the underlying potential of this new format.

Felix, what is the success story at the heart of the hospitality/retail partnership?

Felix Stroppel: The great advantage for us as a hotel is that it provides us with a unique selling proposition that allows us to offer our guests something new every time they visit. Unlike conventional concept stores, our Pop-Up Station is open around the clock. Our guests are usually in holiday spirits and are therefore particularly receptive to inspiration and new experiences.

What has changed for Aletto Hotel as a result of the Pop-Up Station?

The Pop-Up Station introduces flexibility and a new flair to our hotel concept. In our experience, the store has lengthened the time our guests spend on our premises.

In addition, the special features displayed within the pop-up area allows us to appeal to a different hotel audience.

The new project of Wiesbaden-based retailer Daniel Thiel is coming to fruition in an unobstructed hillside location: Maison Thiel.

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THE UNION SHOWROOM THE UNION SHOWROOM

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OU UYRRON NO O EO H E RH E: Y O U R N O T E S H E R E : YYO RRTTNEN SSOTH Y OUU TEESR S EH:EERREE: : YOUR NOTES HERE:

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@UNIONSHOWROOM

WHAT'S THE STORY

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Luis Trenker

“THE SUN SHINES WHEREVER WE ARE” Prices, fit, quality – Luis Trenker has done their homework. Why founder Michi Klemera is certain that self-confidence bolsters a brand.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Luis Trenker

Next generation: Michi and Johanna Klemera.

Rottach-Egern, Peschiera del Garda, Berchtesgaden – Luis Trenker’s most recent openings all reflect a certain vacation vibe.

Michi Klemera, founder and Managing Director of Luis Trenker: Our brand is inextricably linked with South Tyrol. The sun shines wherever we are.

Yet Luis Trenker is not an alpine merchandising brand, but a sophisticated collection positioned at the intersection of Italian sartorial elegance and off-duty sportswear. This translates into corresponding prices.

I could be rich if I were not so demanding, at least that is what I am told. (laughs) Yet I love the Italian aspect of clothing culture. We invest heavily in fitting and only recently recruited a leading expert from the Veneto region, the president of Italian tailoring association, who otherwise works for brands such as Boglioli, Zegna, and Brooks Brothers. Few commit such an investment in Alta Sartoria for sportswear.

People are becoming more price sensitive.

Would it not be easier to cut something like that.

Yes, we have a price problem. We cannot simply pass on the cost increases. We have heeded this market feedback and are working hard to offer attractive entry-level prices. However, we have no intention of compromising our uniqueness, because I am firmly convinced that the consumer crisis can only be combated with creativity.

Luis Trenker’s wholesale quota is declining. Is this a deliberate strategy, as you are at times accused of?

I consider this polarisation between in-house retail and wholesale to be outdated. Whether Oberrauch-Zitt in Bolzano or Lodenfrey, Hirmer, Ludwig Beck, and Oberpollinger in Munich, Luis Trenker stores have never had a negative effect on any of them. They are a marketing tool that allows us to share our world.

What makes a brand strong?

Pride and self-confidence are what the end customer seeks. We must not hesitate, especially now!

Luis Trenker now also showcases its world in Peschiera del Garda.

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Only breaking new ground makes change possible: Warm-Me searches for customers outside the norm – be at a biodynamic vineyard or a fitness centre.

Warm-Me

GOOD PLACES, GOOD VIBES Besides the classic sales approach, destination retail is the horse that Warm-Me is backing. Brand Manager Theresa Steinbacher explains why holiday feeling and cosiness are such a great match.

If you feel cold while on holiday, you buy a hat. Is it really that simple, Theresa?

Theresa Steinbacher, Brand Manager at Warm-Me: Essentially yes, but then again no.

Travel retail is no longer limited to the usual destinations; special hotels have often put a location on the map in the first place. Who would have thought it possible to have a Warm-Me customer in Grossarl? Thanks to the initiative of hotelier Karin Hettegger, who organizes a private shopping evening with guests twice a week, you can.

You are also involved in collaborations in places that might raise an eyebrow or two.

Yes, Gut Oggau in Burgenland is one such place. Yet if you dive deeper, you soon understand. These are next-gen winemakers.

Stefanie Tscheppe-Eselböck collects some favorite items on her many wine sales trips, which she wishes to make accessible to her community. Gut Oggau really is located in the middle of nowhere, but the community that flocks there is keen to be part of this lifestyle and to express this sense of belonging.

How do you forge a strategy from such insights? A sales agency does not have this on its radar…

A traditional sales agency certainly does not, that is true. It stems from our personal commitment, and our agent Ilka Nagelschmitz thinks very much outside the box. I believe we should all be focussing on what is still out there beyond the horizon and ask ourselves where we can attract customers. style in progress 237

MOOD BOOST IN ORANGE

THE NE THERLANDS SPECIAL

The recession has officially arrived, rents are skyrocketing, and the cost of living is on the rise. However, this does not spoil the party or the mood for our Dutch neighbours. In terms of fashion, the small country in north-west Europe is well worth a visit. Brands surprise in every segment, be it streetwear

by Daily Paper, Pal Sporting Goods, Bram’s Fruit, or Flaneur, the ready-to-wear champions Zuitable, Atelier Munro, or Profuomo, or womenswear powerhouses such as Penn & Ink N.Y., Humanoid, Oillily, or JcSophie. Not to mention all the blue blood that fuels Bleeding Indigo, Butcher of Blue, Tenue, and Mud Jeans.

All these brands are embedded in a healthy retail landscape, even beyond the metropolises.

Store such as Coef Menswear, Van Dijk, Pauw, Lutz, Rinsma Concept, and Best of Brands celebrate retail with a sense of aesthetics, attention to detail, and joie de vivre.

This combination of effortlessness and earnestness in business stands out time and again.

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These brands have not entered the arena for fun. They strive to do things right from the outset, aim to build an image without false vanity, and impress by focussing unconditionally on what retailers actually need.

This necessitates natural price limits, a realistic price-performance level, and quality that stems from continuity. Creativity and commerciality engage in an organic dialogue, resulting in a look that finds a pleasant balance between casualness and fun.

A travel recommendation by Martina Müllner.

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T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

“The Church” – Mason Garments is the flagship of FDD Group in the Netherlands.

FDD Group

THE CHURCH OF BRAND WORSHIP

Now in its twelfth year, Mason Garments sits at the center of a group comprising three independent brands. Their common denominator: creativity, trend factor, and business spirit.

Photos: Mason Garments

Founder Rendi Aditia deemed a typical Dutch church the perfect location to consolidate and gently reinvigorate his brand while celebrating its beginnings. “The story of how Mason Garments was founded is pretty crazy,” laughs Sales Director Nabil Ebadi, who has been at Rendi Aditia’s side for more than five years.

While working in a sneaker store, Rendi Aditia sketched unusual sneakers and then sent the designs to Asian producers. One day, out of the blue and after a few setbacks, they were suddenly ready for collection in the port of Rotterdam. Success resulted in a U-turn, and today Mason Garments epitomises pure Made in Italy. The brand prides itself on using the best raw materials available on the

market, even the soles are produced in-house.

As of spring 2024, the collection shares the “Tre Cime”. These three pillars are called Città, Amalfi, and Scalare. They create differentiation and more breadth without deviating from the founding idea of Mason Garments: “Mason is a place where creative people, who may not share the same background but share the same ambition, come together,” says Rendi Aditia.

Mason Garments in the bigger picture contributes to FDD Group consisting of Flaneur, a sought-after “if you know, you know” brand in the Netherlands and the UK, and Plasmic Projects, a normcore streetstyle mix featuring high-tech fabrics. Everything converges at the church in Lijnden. “An incredible team resides in ‘The Church’,” says Nabil Ebadi. Character is a key recruitment criterion. This diversity is contrasted by an almost zen-like minimalist showroom.

“Appreciation, commitment, and consistency,” is how Rendi Aditia describes the pillars of the brand. The mission of FDD Group entails synergies, exchange, and inspiration.

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T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

Cousins Bob and Maarten Rijnders are the definition of blue-blooded: born retailers with extensive expertise gained at brands such as Nudie Jeans, G-Star, and Patagonia. A blend that culminates in a brand that has impressed with its professionalism from the outset.

Butcher of Blue

THE NEXT (BIG) THING…

The two Butchers of Blue are cousins – veritable denim veterans with international experience, from a family with deep roots in retail. A winning combination that makes Butcher of Blue of the Netherlands the grown-up answer to what was considered a jeans professional while they still existed. During a visit to the store, style in progress found out why calling it a denim brand falls far short of the mark. Photos: Butcher of Blue

“That hook is everywhere,” a competitor marvels in tribute to Butcher of Blue. “Every cool Dutchman, be it TV presenter or footballer, wears Butcher of Blue.” 140 wholesale customers in their home country alone is an impressive feat for a brand that was launched shortly before the pandemic. Maarten and Bob Rijnders, the two cousins responsible for this surprise success from Amersfoort, impress with casual earnestness. “We strive to be valuable to each of our partners – and that means that our product must earn money,” Bob summarises.

Butcher of Blue combines much of what we have come to love about the Dutch megabrands of the past decades: design signature, attention to detail, and consistent style. A grown-up look that never feels contrived and reflects the two founders’ love of vintage. Modern implementation of archived ideas, combined with constantly optimised styles and qualities – a balancing act that succeeds because the Rijnders cousins have remained loyal to their first production partner.

“It is downright negligent how much potential brands waste when they change suppliers every season for the sake of pocket change,” 240 style in progress

argues Maarten. He spent 15 years at G-Star, most recently in charge of 600 G-Star stores as the number three behind Jos van Tilburg.

“That is when I learned humility towards retail. Then, at Patagonia, I discovered the art of inspiring people with an essentially unchanged product, even after 50 years,” says the passionate racing cyclist.

The fact that a customised bike in the brand’s typical blue hue is parked in front of Maarten’s office is no more a coincidence than the Suzuki Jimny parked in front of the company headquarters (aka the Clubhouse). The latter houses high-end camping equipment in the same blue tone, as well as seats made of denim. During the drive to the eponymous store, Maarten shares some personal insights. “In terms of jeans, we initially got everything wrong. We wanted to please everyone. At some point, we decided to only produce the kind of jeans that we would wear ourselves, reduced to five loose styles. Since then, things have worked out.” The brand founder enjoys getting a reality check at the soccer stadium. “Ever since skinny jeans started to disappear there, I knew we are on the right track.”

KNOW YOUR ROOTS

Once we arrive in the Amersfoort suburb of Hoogland, Maarten goes on. “Our grandfather used to run a restaurant on the ground floor, but Bob’s family opened fashion stores in 1995.” Stores for women and men exist side by side. Bob’s sister took over the womenswear store called Deb at the beginning of 2023, remodelled it, and promptly increased sales by 60 percent. “Simply put, she’s better at it,” says Maarten, without a hint of cynicism. Bob Hoogland is exactly the type of store that the DACH region tends to lack. Stone Island and Isabel Marant top the price list, complemented by a mix of Nudie Jeans, Pal Sporting Goods, a few Italian specialities, and a whole corner dedicated to Butcher of Blue. “We started out in the

T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

WHAT'S THE STORY

Authentic vibes with a great sense of commerciality: Butcher of Blue.

back room of Bob’s shop on just a few square metres,” says Maarten, interrupting the conversation briefly to greet both store employees with a handshake. “These are the most important people we have.”

The respect for the employees on the sales floor is genuine. The next piece of the puzzle falls into place.

The absence of such product ranges in the DACH region makes the work of Patric Maly, whose agency 4pm is responsible for sales in Germany and Austria, so challenging. “We regard our commitment to him and the first landmark retailers as an investment. We are aware that this market requires patience,” reflects Maarten. “A pop-up project in Vienna was a huge success. Since then, we are sure that consumers in these countries love our style.”

The better the understanding of the brand, the more coherent it appears. This is where the Rijnders cousins’ brand management skill comes to the fore. The fascination stems from a holistic approach: color harmony, carefully placed logos, and surprisingly strong individual product groups. Maarten reveals: “Knitwear contributes 40 percent to our turnover.” B2B, EDI, repeat deliveries, sales floor presence – Butcher of Blue displays the professionalism of a seasoned player. All these insights cannot be gained by casually passing a trade fair stand. This brand requires engagement. Those who linger in the Butcher of Blue universe will quickly become disciples and realise that this is not just some backyard joint, but a new powerhouse. style in progress 241

WHAT'S THE STORY

T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

Penn & Ink N.Y.

“THEY JUST GET IT”

In the Netherlands, Penn & Ink N.Y. is not only successfully marketed by around 250 retailers, but also operates five own stores – some of which are run as multi-brand concepts. This adds practical knowledge to the collection.

“I admire Mark and Felice for the fact that everything they touch has such a strong aesthetic,” says Madeleen Bakker, who not only works in the Penn & Ink N.Y. stores, but also coaches colleagues. Her wealth of experience makes her the perfect role model to instill the team with self-confidence in customer contact. “I love the effect the products have on women,” enthuses Madeleen.

Being a multi-brand retailer in its own right is what allows Penn & Ink N.Y. to be so on point. Mixed with peers such as Closed, Drykorn, Baum und Pferdgarten, and American Vintage, the brand unleashes its full power. “Shopping needs to feel easy. We take great care not to exceed certain price limits.

Treating yourself to something is fine, but outrageous luxury is not,” Madeleen argues.

FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE

Mark and Felice De Lorme have established a fundamentally aesthetic field of experimentation with their five boutiques in Breda, Arnhem, Den Bosch, Rotterdam, and Antwerp in the Netherlands. “This first-hand 242 style in progress

In the pedestrian zone of Arnhem in the Netherlands, Penn & Ink N.Y. has transformed a former church into a multi-brand store featuring a home department.

experience is what makes the collection so strong in terms of sales,” says Henk Prins, responsible for sales in Germany together with his partner Damir Prins-Juric. “The limited collection was the strongest we have ever had.” What inspires retailers such as Fashion Strada, Edelguth, Zeitlos am Tegernsee, Köer, Blickfang, and Pier14? “The collection is very inclusive, with a genuine interest in dressing women well in everyday life, maintaining the right balance between trend, classics, and commerciality,” says Christian Klaus, the sales agent responsible for Austria.

colorsofcalifornai.it

WHAT'S THE STORY

T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

REAL WOMEN, REAL BRANDS

Well-dressed yet never overdressed, casual yet always sophisticated.

Natural, effortless, colorful, and self-confident - the look of Dutch womenswear brands combines ease with the enjoyment of fashion.

Photos: Brands

Blosh

“VALUE FOR MONEY WILL BE THE CENTRAL TOPIC”

Rob Groenteman is entering the German market with his two brands Freebird and Simple. The structures are being developed by Martina Schmidl and her team at Leoon.

Rob Groenteman, founder of the Dutch sales agency Blosh, which owns the brands Freebird and Simple, is developing a completely independent sales structure for his brands.

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Rob, what amazes us about Dutch brands is their price/performance ratio. Despite high-quality looks, the price is always a pleasant surprise.

Rob Groenteman, founder of Blosh, Freebird, and Simple: We in the Netherlands also believed that everything needed to be more expensive, but trading up was simply not the solution to the problems in fashion retail.

Shopping is not fun when items are too expensive.

How can the fun factor be rekindled?

Freebird and Simple will even succeed in reducing prices in 2024. That is, however, only possible if you sacrifice your own margins. Yet we believe this move is an important message for 2024.

Because the market situation is so tense?

I have no time for pessimism. The market is still producing winners, and, on an accumulated basis, we are only marginally short of previous year’s figures. Yet it goes without saying that the economic conditions cannot be ignored.

Instead of working with agents in Germany, Freebird and Simple will operate as an independent company with its own showrooms. That represents a massive investment in the DACH region. Why now?

Now is when fortune favors the bold. We tested the classic agency model before, but the timing – slap in the middle of the pandemic – was horrendous. We have learned from that: No more compromises.

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WHAT'S THE STORY

Amaya Amsterdam

A FAMILY AFFAIR

The parents established a successful fashion agency, so when their daughters ventured into the business, they were keen to add their own individual touch. This marked the birth of Amaya Amsterdam. The subline “The Power of Matching Sets” explains the concept. Tops and bottoms that work well individually yet are more fun when worn as a set: a pair of high-waist shorts with an oversized Chanel blazer, or a flounced skirt featuring Toile de Jouy prints with a ruffled blouse in the same style. Elaborate Italian fabrics and rich looks are all offered at a favorable price-performance ratio. “The price labels offer a pleasant surprise,” argues Jörg Korfhage of Colorful Trade. Two delivery dates minimize risk and provide fresh in-store visuals in for summer and winter. “We need to raise awareness for this second delivery date in Germany,” says Korfhage. www.amaya-amsterdam.com, @amaya.amsterdam

JcSophie

“WE LISTEN, WE IMPLEMENT”

JcSophie has not reinvented the wheel.

Launched in 2014 as a small collection, the brand now offers straightforward everyday wear with a price-performance ratio that has become rare in premium fashion. Yet the label has more to offer: excellent cuts, feminine with a minimalist Asian touch. Strategic considerations and visions for the future in a transformative retail landscape challenge owners Joanette and Richard van der Mark. “We racked our brains over this for such a long time, only to realise that we are quite practical. We strive to offer an excellent product at a competitive price, as well as really good service. It is really that simple,” they laugh. The latter includes German-language customer service and a

hands-on mentality: “If there are problems, we solve them,” says Richard.

JcSophie has 350 customers in Germany, 250 in the Netherlands, a stable base in Austria and Belgium, and an incipient Scandinavian presence. “We limit our exports to markets that offer reliability, that are open to JcSophie’s style and price range, and in which there are still plenty of independent stores. That is what we are made for.

Our collection performs superbly where advice is offered. The femininity, joie de vivre, and effortlessness of JcSophie are effective in dialogue with other brands. We feel at home in multi-brand retail. We are, of course, also open to larger formats if the conditions suit both parties. We learned that lesson in the past,” says Richard. www.jcsophie.nl, @jc.sophie

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WHAT'S THE STORY

T h e N e th e r l a nd s Sp ec i a l

THE ART OF RETAIL

Informally curated with customers in mind – and the latter desire fun, enjoyment, and high competence levels. Where can all this be found?

Here are some insider tips from locals.

COEF MEN

What began ten-plus years ago with a concept store in Nijmegen is now an institution with branches in Arnhem, Leiden, Utrecht, and Westfield Mall of the Netherlands in Leidschendam, The Hague. It stocks fashion by Stone Island, Daily Paper, NN07, and Ami Paris, trainers by Karhu, New Balance, Mason Garments, and Hi-Tec, as well as illustrated books, beauty items, and cult brands Stüssy, K-Way, and Lyle & Scott. coef.nl, @coef_men

DEB/Hoogland

The perfect mix. Brands such as Isabel Marant and Ganni head the list, followed by a colorful portfolio of Denham, Closed, MbyM, and Alix the Label. Debbie Rijnders supported her brother Bob Rijnders on and off for 25 years before realising that she had to make the business her own. To mark the takeover, she treated the boutique to a visual makeover. Bob and Deb continue to appear side by side in the adverts. “It felt right to create my own realm within the family business,” says the store owner.

VAN DIJK/Waalwijk

“This place does not need an occasion to party.” Van Dijk of Waalwijk, a town of 50,000 inhabitants, delivers on this promise.

With its 3,000 square metres and 120 brands, Van Dijk is not only the city’s premier retailer, but also a meeting place. Open seven days a week, the Meneervandijk bistro adjoins the store.

A bespoke atelier, nine employees for personal shopping, a product range from advanced basic to festive – Van Dijk is quite rightly known throughout the Netherlands. www.vandijkstore.nl, @vandijk.store, @vandijk.concept 246 style in progress

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WHAT'S THE STORY

RINSMA/Gorredijk

Womenswear, menswear, footwear, lingerie – Rinsma offers everything from head to toe in its four stores, including an in-house hairdresser and barber, as well as a restaurant and café. Gerk-Jan Rinsma has set up his own academy to train his employees, whose internal training programme not only covers fashion expertise, but also teaches them in detail how to be good hosts. Consistent: Both fashion shops feature a central bar, which acts as the communicative hub. www.rinsmamodeplein.nl, @zijvanrinsma, @rinsma.concepts

COTTONCAKE/Amsterdam

“We already stock far too many wonderful brands. Yet if you think we cannot live without yours, get in touch,” Tessa and Jorinde, the owners of Cottoncake Amsterdam, say confidently.

In front of open, white-painted walls, the store focuses on its own collection, complemented by brands such as American Vintage and an excellent espresso bar. Cottoncake is a store that is popular with locals and tourists alike. www.cottoncake.nl, @cottoncake_

High-quality denim that refrains from complicating jeans: Tenue.

Tenue

EVOLUTION Many denim enthusiasts regard Menno van Meurs as a demigod. Not only because he established Tenue de Nimes, arguably one of the best denim stores in Europe, but also because it was always obvious that the business would eventually evolve into a brand. Be it with his own print journal, or the early blend of clothing and designer vintage pieces, the Dutchman is considered a retail visionary. The online age propelled the boutique onto the international stage, which is when the idea for the Tenue spin-off – de Nimes remains reserved for the store – manifested itself. Since 2015, the brand has embodied denim, but it also offers a range of complementary staples from t-shirts to hoodies. Women’s and men’s jeans are available in limited styles that have remained largely the same, yet always in three lengths. Collaborations with brands such as Kleen Kanteen, Le Bonnet, and Private White VC reflect mutual respect. In Amsterdam, a dedicated Tenue store forms the epicenter of the brand universe. After developing the Netherlands’ best stores, it is time for a careful european expansion. First Floor Agency is in charge of this in Germany, with stores such as Bube & König, Burg und Schild, and Modehaus Schnitzler as early customers. www.tenuejeans.com

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FASHION

CROSSOVERS 7 for all mankind

DESTINATION Hetregó

BANDED SQUATS Joseph

COLLABORATION

Windsor x The Dolder Grand

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OUTSIDE THE BOX

FASHION

TRENDS & FORECASTS FOR UPCOMING SEASONS Editorial: Isabel Faiss Photos: Brands

NO SEASON Annarr

TRAVELIZATION Lanvin x Future

SCANDIC CRUISERS Shirtaporter

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FASHION Brax

9AM by Dolores

MM6 Maison Margiela

Sold out

IQ Studio

Desoto

Louis Vuitton

CG – Club of Gents

Cambio

Tenue

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FASHION Kings of Indigo The Nim Standard Raffaello Rossi

PNTS

Latino

BANDED SQUATS Pride to Be 7 for all Mankind

Low and wide are two attributes we use to aptly describe the fit and cut of each of these pants.

In addition to the casual width, there are always banded leg sections. The men’s silhouette is also becoming much more relaxed.

Tenue

Drykorn

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FASHION

Steve Madden

Marcel Ostertag

Joseph

TheHolyGoat

They see the boundaries that fashion has been setting for centuries as an invitation to overcome them: role or gender-specific stylistic elements come together in unisex looks, the transitions between categories such as jackets and trousers are fluid. There are no estabished terms to convey which item of clothing it is.

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FASHION

CROSSOVERS Raffaello Rossi

MM6 Maison Margiela

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FASHION Yippie Hippie

MM6 Maison Margiela

Antony Morato

Circolo 1901

Hiltl

Lanius Daniele Fiesoli

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FASHION

Adele

Mason Garments

GTA

Pin 1876

AlphaTauri

NO SEASON Flexibility is a motto in retail that is increasingly reflected in the collections.

The detachment from seasons, dates and the need for clearance sales differs not only in terms of style, but also in terms of content from classic NOS programs. You will hardly find any basics here.

Tom Ripley

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FASHION ADD Cute Stuff

Bogner

Seldom

Selected Bloom

RRD

Scandinavian Edition

Duno

Milestone

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Heinz Bauer

Sportalm

DESTINATION

FASHION

Skiing vacations in sophisticated winter destinations only express a fraction of the fascination of this stylistic world. Large dimensions, lots of knitwear, plenty of technical innovation within the materials, strong colors and classic patterns.

Woodpecker

Oofwear

AlphaTauri

JNBY

Ecoalf Pride to Be

Antony Morato

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FASHION

Herschel Supply Dressler Trine Tuxen

Nineto9

Mey

The art of traveling in style has recognition value. Flourishing collaborations between various travel destinations and fashion labels and stores are just one sign of how much potential there is in the industry. The collections also revisit the sophisticated, nostalgic flair of the golden age of luxury travel.

Joop

Bogner

Strellson

Julia Skergeth Humanoid

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FASHION

Moismont Yippie Hippie

Mou

TRAVELIZATION

Lanius

Seldom

Alberto

Avant Toi

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CPNHGN

FASHION Selected

Pinko

Baum und Pferdegarten

Ba&sh

Elisabetta Franchi

Bugatti

SCANDIC CRUISERS If you mix easiness with a serene, fashionable self-image and the right amount of fun with fashion, the look culminates unerringly in the mystical spheres of Scandinavia. This issue provides many answers as to why this style has been so successful for years and is expanding.

Visually, it’s almost self-explanatory.

Floris van Bommel

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Maerz Muenchen

FASHION

Alohas

Herrlicher

Phil Petter

101 Copenhagen

Samsøe Samsøe

Carl Gross

Daddy’s Daughters

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FASHION

STAMPD X UGG

The brands’ third capsule collection combines the aprèsski comfort of lambskin boots with futuristic design.

Main feature: The waterproof boot guards that glow in the dark.

PALACE X C.P. COMPANY

C.P. Company’s iconic goggle jacket meets London cult label Palace for the second time already, incorporating its streetwear and skate heritage.

J.LINDEBERG X ROBBIE WILLIAMS

With this capsule, music legend Robbie Williams and the J.Lindeberg design team have given their shared passion for golf and the sophisticated fashion style that goes with it a very colorful and bright look.

ISSIMO X SCHOLL

The Italian hotel heiress, style icon and Managing Director of Pelicano Hotels, Marie-Louise Scio, is casually responsible as Creative Director for the digital concept store Issimo as an interactive platform that celebrates the know-how of Italian craftsmanship. She has now entered into an exclusive collaboration with the long-established brand Scholl.

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THE COLORFUL CREW X AND.BLOOM

In its collaboration with Dutch author, photographer and content creator Denise Boomkens (@and.bloom), the paper art label The Colorful Crew has a message: Welcome to the Super Anti Anti Aging Club! This and other slogans adorn T-shirts and sweatshirts.

FASHION

COLLABORATION

X

WINDSOR X THE DOLDER GRAND

Together with the traditional Zurich hotel The Dolder Grand, Windsor has created a capsule collection that will be presented in the hotel’s own boutique, the Windsor online store and selected department stores in the form of an exclusive pop-up installation from February 2024.

A BATHING APE X CANADA GOOSE

To mark the 30th anniversary of Japanese street-wear brand Bape, the second collaboration with Canada Goose is being launched, flanked by a special edition with Be@rbrick collectible figures.

LANVIN X FUTURE

The American rapper Future has just presented his first collection for Lanvin Lab, a creative platform for collaborations with artists, musicians and influencers specifically set up by Lanvin.

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EDITOR'S LETTER

COMPETENCE [käm-pə-tən(t)s] noun

In Bergheim, a village near Salzburg, there has been a shoe shop for as long as I can remember: Asmus. It is housed in a moderately attractive functional building in the middle of an industrial estate behind the Salzburg slaughterhouse. According to official criteria, it’s an F-location (does that even exist?), but at least it has parking spaces. I was there again this fall because my learning object, my by now 17-year-old son, who has already been mentioned here several times, had discovered classic Timberlands as a must-have. Some things just stay or keep coming back.

So I went into the moderately pretty functional building, impressed by the sheer depth of the range and some of the details to be discovered. Here the accessories of a young local artist, there cleverly selected basics for the approaching winter, knowing the regular customers. The actual purpose of the visit was quickly accomplished, not least thanks to a good-humored saleswoman – I deliberately use this almost incorrect term – who was still able to estimate shoe sizes by eye – and correctly at that.

Back in the car, I had a brief feeling of real satisfaction.

Why was that? After all, I had only bought a pair of shoes in Bergheim behind the slaughterhouse. The reason for my satisfaction can be summarized in one word: competence! That was exactly the experience, not an extraordinary environment, not champagne, not new digital worlds at the PoS, but simply competence. The reason why I noticed this so intensely is because I or we encounter this less and less often. As always, when something is rare, the desire or even the longing for it increases. Yes, I long to be surrounded by competence, by people who know what they are doing and why they are doing it, and who on top of that, can communicate it.

ABOUT US

Editors-in-Chief Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Martina Müllner martina@style-in-progress.com

Publisher, Editorial Office, Advertising Department and Owner style in progress B2B Media GmbH

Art Direction, Design, Production Hummingbird21 e.U. Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@style-in-progress.com

Postal address Postfach 0031, 5027 Salzburg, Austria Company address Bachwinkl 2, 5081 Anif, Austria info@style-in-progress.com www.style-in-progress.com IG: styleinprogress.magazine FB: styleinprogressonline Management Stephan Huber

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Managing Editor Johannes Seymann Editorial Staff Petrina Engelke Janaina Engelmann-Brohtánek Isabel Faiss Tanita Hecking Claudia Jordan Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Veronika Zangl Image Editor Hannes Hemetsberger

At the end of last year, a draft law was announced according to which the destruction of unsold clothing is to be banned in the EU in the future. Incidentally, leaving aside the final form of this law, I fully support this. Just as I fully support the fact that politics, i.e. specifically the legislature, will provide a framework. Because that is the only way a society can function. And that brings me back to competence, and its complex and highly exciting double meaning: depending on the context, it can mean both an ability and an authorization, i.e. the competence to make decisions by virtue of an office or position. Not only in the case of laws or regulations, these can often hold very far-reaching decisions for society as a whole, and for individuals. But only when decision-making competence and factual competence form a unity can a future emerge.

So when I sing the praises of competence here, it is actually linked to a longing and a promise to value it much more consciously in the future, both on a large and small scale. We need a lot more of it!

Sincerely Your Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com

English Translation Georgmaria Prock Manfred Thurner Editor Georgmaria Prock Printing Johann Sandler GesmbH & Co KG, 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing Coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Advertising Director Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Advertising Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek janaina@style-in-progress.com Claudia Jordan claudia@style-in-progress.com Martina Müllner martina@style-in-progress.com

Kay Alexander Plonka kay@style-in-progress.com Nicoletta Schaper nicoletta@style-in-progress.com Accounting Verena Wigoutschnig verena@style-in-progress.com Digital Edition www.style-in-progress.com/magazin Next Issue 17th of June 2024