style in progress 1/2017 – English Edition

style in progress

#1/2017

“Mono-Brand Stores Simply Aren’t Fun!” Andrea Panconesi

Oh How We Laughed! Fashion Should Be Fun – Especially Now. Dance of the Neurons Why Shopping Can Make You Happy and Unhappy.

No Fun? A Matter of Perspective.

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THINK FIRST, THEN WRITE!

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006 EDITORIAL

Just Smile Welcome to these lines.

As much as we love paper, it would have been nice to allow you to hear the determination in his voice. When we asked Andrea Panconesi, the owner of Luisa Via Roma, whether he can still visit a trade show in peace, he made clear: “The more contacts, the better…” In our Longview (from page 074), the Florentine retail expert reaffirms how important trade fairs are for his business. With his trademark humour, he argues that “San Pitti” (Saint Pitti) is Florence’s second patron saint. If you want to know who the third is, then you’ll have to read the interview.

The joy of experiencing something new has gifted us with a strong edition. Our “Want It” section (from page 054) is almost 10 pages strong and that is no coincidence. After all, there is no lack of new ideas and no lack of individuals willing to invest their lifeblood in projects. This is a recurrent theme in every section of this edition.

There’s the team at WP Lavori, which was rewarded for decades of belief in the Woolrich brand with a merger with Woolrich USA (page 022). Then there are entrepreneurs such as Lars Braun (Value for Money, page 135), Heiko Storz and his Fil Noir shirt collections (page 062), and Edward Copper’s Hilke Blömeke (Product with a Background Story, page 136). These are stories we are passionate about. style in progress traditionally states that change is just around the corner. However, the statements by the Marc O’Polo board members Alexander Gedat and Bernd Keller (“We Need to be Edgier Again”, from page 138) show how imminent and evident change is. Chapeau!

Would you like more of the same? We have more! For example, an article about the innovative ideas of the retail consultancy Dfrost. In Nadine Frommer and Christoph Stelzer, the company has a leadership that is willing to act in order to solve problems (Help Yourself, page 133). Parajumpers’ Gloria Paulon is equally solution-oriented in her endless battle against counterfeiting (“Criminals Know How Not to Get Caught”, page 132). While we’re talking about solving Gordian knots: Markus and Daniel Freitag are second to none in terms of tinkering. Ready-to-compost is their new catchword for sustainable fashion (“I Like Having Problems”, page 131). To ensure that you have a smile on your face, this edition of our magazine has a special main focus in store for you. From page 082 onwards, everything revolves around fun.

With this in mind, we mean the following quite literally: Have fun while reading!

Your style in progress team

Cover photo: Ryan Hursh

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UTAH

spring summer 2017 woolrich.eu

008 CONTENT

006 EDITORIAL Just Smile

012 RIGHT NOW 054 WANT IT THE LONGVIEW 074 “Today, Fashion is a Universal, Global Language” Luisa Via Roma’s Andrea Panconesi on enthusiasm, the joy of visiting trade shows, and the most efficient way of communicating 074

WHAT’S THE STORY

FUN

082 Not Enjoyable?

Stephan Huber believes we work in a fantastic industry 084 “This Just Isn’t Fun Anymore!”

Has fashion lost its fun element? Sector experts comment on the situation 096 Oh How We Laughed!

Even in harsh times fashion is allowed to be - or better: must be - fun 100 This Must Be the Home of Fun Michael Scarpellini’s brand Happiness guarantees fun and excellent revenue 102 A Colourful Character Nicole Mohrmann on the art of creating an extraordinary product range

096

104 Dance of the Neurons Rational buying is so yesterday - the hunt for emotions is on 108 “Shopping is a Way to Address Sadness” Researcher Scott Rick is convinced that retail therapy works 110 We Need Top Performance!

The ordering process must be fun (again) 116 “Fashion Isn’t Mathematics!”

Föger Woman Pure’s Matthias Moser calls for more venturesome buying 118 More Fun! Experience per square metre is the new success formula 122 “This is a Great Opportunity for Stationary Retailers!”

Why one should always strive to exceed customer expectations 123 “This Store is Like a TV Show” And Chelsea Farmers Club’s Christoph Tophinke is the director 124 Global Player Furla’s core competence is offering luxury bags at affordable prices

104

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126 Logical at Second Glance Zalando has decided to team up with stationary retailers

STAND 2.10

WOOL WINTER

www.alberto-pants.com

010 CONTENT

130 The Full Package The P4 agency has invested heavily 131 “I Like Having Problems” Ready-to-compost is Freitag’s vision for environmentally compatible, sustainable fashion 132 “Criminals Know How Not to Get Caught” Parajumpers has vowed to fight tooth and nail against counterfeiters 133 Help Yourself Dfrost strives to solve familiar problems of the retail trade with a help-desk app

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134 High Performance and Fashion Nobis of Canada combines high performance and fashion 135 Value for Money Lars Braun’s brand 04651/ redefines leisurewear 136 Product with a Background Story A deliberately northern European shirt - the success story of Edward Copper 137 Back for Good A new owner revives the Brooksfield brand 138 “We Need to be Edgier Again” Marc O’Polo strives to impress with surprise elements 140 It Remains in the Family Wormland returns to the ancestral family home of its new owners

FASHION 142 Round & Round Trends A/W 2017

IN STORE 154

154 The World as a Home Bungalow 8/Mumbai 156 Cosmopolitan Fashion Apolis/Los Angeles 158 Convincing with Style Green Guerillas/Düsseldorf 160 Independent Catwalk Junkie/Mannheim 162 Wonderfully Nordic Hansen/Copenhagen 164 Stuff for Men Strictly Herrmann/Vienna 166 A New Way Oberpollinger/Munich

168 EDITOR’S LETTER Digital... in Progress 164

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168 ABOUT US

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Closed values its roots and continues to focus on its initial brand core: jeans.

Closed It’s All About Denim

Zollverein authentically unites history and the present, just like the Möbelloft team in Stetson Europe’s new advertising campaign.

Stetson Europe Change in Focus Clemens Frantzen and Julian Kuhnle are the masterminds behind the Möbelloft, probably the most beautiful furniture store in the Ruhr area of Germany. It is located on the site of the former “Zollerverein” colliery in Essen. Together with their team, the two entrepreneurs are the protagonists of the new advertising campaign for the autumn/winter 2017 collection of Friedrich W. Schneider (FWS), the Stetson Europe company. In cooperation with the Zollverein Foundation, the company bridges the gap between history and modernity against a historical backdrop that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001. The campaign focuses the collection on the topic of change. The completely preserved production facilities of the coal mine and coking plant are among the largest tourist attractions in the Ruhr area and symbolise the successful transformation of an industrial site into a lively location for culture and leisure, as well as education and business.

“Stetson Europe links the hard work of the past industrial age and the creativity of today’s service culture with timeless looks, highlights contrasts, and emphasises sustainable change.

The special portrayal of industrial culture and design is not the only thing that Zollverein and Stetson have in common. The Ecuadorian Panama Hat, one of Stetson’s styles, is also a UNESCO World Heritage and we interpret that in an equally contemporary fashion”, says Klaus Kirschner, the managing director of FWS. The collaboration for the shooting made just as much sense for the Zollverein Foundation.

Delia Bösch, the head of communication and marketing at the foundation, explains: “We immediately sensed that Stetson Europe was not merely interested in gaining access to a spectacular backdrop. It was clear that we share a certain attitude and conviction in terms of promoting something that has withstood the test of time and reinterpreting it in the present.”

Clemens Frantzen, the managing director of Möbelloft who experienced many exciting and funny adventures on the site during his childhood, shares this appreciation: “Stetson Europe enables us to put our definitions of sustainability and design into a new context. Being models was quite a challenge for us, but that makes the campaign even more authentic.” www.stetson-europe.com

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In terms of products, Closed consciously focuses on quality. Once again, this also applies to the brand’s core: the denim range. “Denim contributes significantly to our revenue and we continue to strive for quality. Today, 100 percent of our denim products are manufactured in Italy”, says Gordon Giers, the CEO of Closed. “It starts with the fabrics being woven by Candiani, the best denim mill worldwide.

The fabrics are then processed by Paul Spa in Ancona, our production partner.

We co-operated with the latter in terms of trouser production right from the offset.

This long-lasting friendship is reflected in the quality of the products.” The denim items are washed at Everest of Piombino, in the close vicinity of Venice. Time and time again, Everest develops innovations exclusively for Closed. “In terms of production partners, we are fully committed to close relationships. We perceive our partners as members of the Closed family”, Giers adds. “Recent develop-

ments have proven that we have chosen the right approach.” Hand-crafted denim from Italy is a USP for Closed. Today, the brand has more than 40 mono-brand stores across Europe and supplies 1,300 international customers such as Selfridges, Bon Marché, Galeries Lafayette, Lane Crawford, and United Arrows.

Blauer USA Good Cops Blauer USA celebrated its 80th birthday last year. The design of the collection for autumn/winter 2017, which will be showcased at the Pitti trade show, highlights the future-oriented side of the brand from the Italian village of Montegalda. However, Blauer USA has not lost touch with its own roots. The main source of inspiration remains the theme world of the US police force, both in terms of colouring and materials. The styles are implemented with clear-lined cuts. The brand offers down jackets and coats, as well as a recently expanded range of leather jackets with warm down lining. The latter forms the core of the collection. Natural Park parkas and field jackets in muted khaki tones are perfect companions for all outdoor activities. Down jackets with heavy padding promise high wearing comfort. The brand’s knitwear is available in various finishes in classic autumn colours, as well as in black and blue. Blauer HT is aimed at athletes who are modern and urban alike. The latter can be easily identified by a 3D patch, minimalist lines, and highly technical materials. Other features include a removable lining and welded seams. www.blauer.it

Blauer USA offers a convincing and diverse range of jackets. The world of the US police force remains the main source of inspiration.

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Alpha Studio Limited Edition

Save the Duck For Arctic Temperatures The “Arctic” model is the centrepiece of Save the Duck’s urban collection. The Milan-based brand has committed itself to providing products that use no animal materials. Its lined, double-layered parka jacket in 12 colours - with a removable thermal inner layer - is an ecological alternative for both urban environments and extreme conditions in the mountains. Save the Duck has also re-launched its “Animal Print” line with zebra prints and colourful leopard patterns. The line utilises stretch materials and fake fur. It also offers classic styles in shaded looks. The “City Rain” jackets are the perfect companions for rainy days, mainly due to extremely breathable materials and - upon request - welded seams. “Twin” is the model with a sporty military appeal, while “Matt” represents the more urban jacket style.

Last but not least, the “Pro Tech” line, which is highly technology-oriented, offers welded seams, improved water density, and breathability. The colour palette of the men’s collection includes blue, earthy tones, and mustard shades, while the women’s collection is dominated by radiant colours, as well as cherry red and sky blue.

Christopher Raeburn will design a luxury capsule collection for Save the Duck’s autumn/winter collection.

The special edition – titled Recycle – is inspired by nature’s changing seasons. It will be distributed to 100 top retailers in collaboration with the Tomorrow showroom. www.savetheduck.it, www.kometundhelden.de

Save the Duck refrains from using animal materials, thus offering an ecological alternative within the jacket segment.

Alpha Studio of Italy has decided to mark the autumn/winter 2017/2018 season with a limited edition for men and women. It consists of unique items that focus on a range of topics. “Floral Jacquard” embodies a vintage style inspired by the 1960s, while “Tapestry Textures” draws its inspiration from a bohemian background. “Donegal” is influenced

by British traditions, while “Bicolor and Patchwork” plays with harmonious colour schemes. Last but not least, “The Stripes” is committed to the luxury sports segment. “Traditional English textiles are the main source of inspiration; we translated them into contemporary knitwear”, says Paolo Rossi, the managing director of Alpha Studio. The collection focuses on brushed materials, which are refined utilising conventional machinery. Rotating cylinders and metal spikes generate particularly voluminous and soft-haired surfaces.

The parent company of Alpha Studio is Franco Rossi SRL, a fashion house that focuses its collection on the interplay of tradition and innovation. Furthermore, it strives to offer excellent customer care.

For example, Franco Rossi SRL supplies a comprehensive stock service via its B2B online portal. It allows retailers to re-order goods easily. www.alphastudio.com

People of Shibuya High-Flyer

People of Shibuya has decided to focus on the womenswear segment.

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Calling all women! The women’s range of People of Shibuya’s autumn/winter 2017 collection has been expanded significantly. Its look is - not unlike that of the men’s outerwear range characterised by functionality and clean design.

The feminine line is also focused on innovative high-tech materials from Japan, which offer optimal wearing comfort and are implemented in sophisticated silhouettes. In addition, the brand has added decorative - yet functional - details and reflective logos. The range includes single and double jackets made of technical nylon developments or technical wool combined with down. Furthermore, it offers “Rip Stop” nylons.

The new People of Shibuya collection also boasts a variety of single jackets - as well as double jackets - for men. After all, these jackets are the base of the brand’s success.

People of Shibuya first appeared on the market as of autumn/winter 2015. The parent holding of the brand is Goodfellas SRL, which is located on Lake Garda in Italy. The company is also responsible for the collection of AT.P.CO. People of Shibuya is one of the few new players in the premium jacket segment and is represented in Germany by Modeagentur Schwarte. The latter started working with People of Shibuya a year ago and has enjoyed success ever since. www.peopleofshibuya.com

Alpha Studio stands for innovative knitwear and excellent service for its retail partners.

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Warm feet: Espadrij is now winter-fit.

Espadrij l’originale Slippers for the Winter The Espadrij Maison slipper collection, which will be delivered to retailers in autumn 2017, is Espadrij l’originale’s winter counterpart to its Mediterranean summer models. The new collection will make its debut at the Seek trade show in Berlin. A total of ten lambswool-lined slippers in up to twelve colour variations will keep feet warm in the cold season. The styles are made of velour, velvet, and knitted materials; they are available with either a soft wool-felt sole or an outdoor-suitable jute-rubber sole. All slippers are manufactured in Spain. “From the very

beginning, we thought about what we could offer our customers in winter.

Now we have found a way to produce a product which is very close to summer shoes in terms of look and wearing comfort. Espadrij has become an essential part of summer. Therefore, it was only logical to create a winter equivalent in the form of cosy and warm slippers”, says Felix Staeudinger, the owner of Espadrij l’originale. The purchase prices range from 27 to 38 Euros, while the recommended retail prices range from 69 to 99 Euros. www.espadrij.com

Schott NYC Evolution of a Classic

Alberto uses its own store in Mönchengladbach as a laboratory.

Alberto Regional Competence “Buy your local pants!” is the motto of Alberto’s new concept store. This new shop was quite deliberately not opened in one of the usual fashion hubs such as Berlin, Düsseldorf, or Munich, but in Mönchengladbach, the corporate home of the pants specialist.

The store, which boasts a sales area of approximately 130 square metres, is located on “Alter Markt” and serves - among other things - as a kind of laboratory for testing different solutions at the point of sale and for training sessions. Alberto strives to offer its customers surprising approaches in terms of product presentation. To this end, the store’s flexible furnishing modules can be rearranged at will. The brand also attaches great importance to customer proximity, for example by offering “Shopping by Appointment” outside the regular opening hours. “Our concept store focuses on temporary customer inspiration concepts that we pass on to our specialised retail partners”, says Marco Lanowy, the managing director of Alberto and co-owner of the brand. “We quite deliberately chose Mönchengladbach as the location again. We believe in the city’s historical core and hope that our store can contribute to its revaluation.” In addition, Alberto has teamed up with the local business development agency to promote the stimulation of other areas within the city centre. The “Fashion Hotel”, which is located in the basement of the former “Stadthotel”, opened its doors to the public in December.

Here, the young designers of Mönchengladbach - and the surrounding regions - are afforded an opportunity to present and sell their work. www.alberto-pants.com

Schott, a brand that was founded in New York in 1913, has been producing the legendary MA-1 bomber jacket since 1952. The reissued bomber jacket edition of 2012 has been further developed from season to season. For autumn/winter 2017, the colour palette has been expanded by ten new colours. Shades such as wine red, dark green, rosewood, and bronze now complement the range of jackets for both women and men. In addition, the brand has added new materials. Alongside a soft velvety version in eight colours for men and women, customers can now also enjoy a model made of foil-coated nylon with a metallic effect in silver-gold and rosé with striped cotton rib cuffs. The range is complemented by embroidered and patched bomber jacket variants. Other jackets have also been subject to progress. Once again, the women’s collection has been extended by adding new jackets and short coats. In addition to the popular “Made in the US” leather jackets, the autumn/winter 2017 order round in Europe includes a complete collection consisting of shirts, knitwear, trousers, and accessories. “In the next three years, we would like to prove that Schott NYC is a global brand with a comprehensive collection. We strive to show that it is capable of dominating sales areas and brand corners”, says Mark Grütters, the managing director of the Fashion Factory agency. Said agency is the sales representative of Schott NYC in the German-speaking markets. www.schottnyc.com, www.ffbymg.com

Bestseller bomber jacket: Schott NYC presents new variants and new materials.

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Luis Trenker Upwards Michi Klemera and his team must feel vindicated. It has been proven that growth generated via stores run by Luis Trenker leads to success. Over the autumn season, the stores in Kitzbühel and Innsbruck, as well as the outlet at the Brenner, contributed significantly to the brand’s sales growth. In addition, the online store provides a solid contribution to the company’s financial performance.

The team headed by Stefanie Horcher is particularly proud of the low return rates.

“In 2016, we have experienced overall growth of 20 percent, even in today’s difficult market environment”, says Michi Klemera. It comes as no surprise that this upswing spurs on the brand’s plans for the future. After establishing a shop-in-shop concept in Starnberg’s Be Change project devised by Friederike Müller, Luis Trenker plans opening a new store in Vienna in mid-2017.

Michi Klemera is particularly pleased with a new addition to his staff: “Michael Schreittmiller has joined the Luis Trenker team as country manager for Germany with immediate effect. We are delighted that we have managed to win over such an experienced and well-established industry expert.” Under his leadership, Consuela Stettmaier will continue to handle the distribution territories assigned to her. The new showroom on the Lodenfrey premises is “a commitment to the German market and a clear signal to our customers.” Luis Trenker is also

Michi Klemera and Peter Wagner proudly present the results of their collaboration: two special editions of Wagner chairs for the catering industry.

eager to tread new paths in terms of public relations: “In addition to classical PR, we are looking to intensify our ties with influencers and bloggers that suit our corporate philosophy.”

Luis Trenker’s connection to the catering and hotel industries has also been boosted by a new highlight. Michi Klemera designed two chairs for Wagner, a renowned furniture manufacturer. “The Luis Trenker chair for the gastronomy industry is perfect for all concepts that strive to stand out with an Alpine lifestyle.” Peter Wagner and Michi Klemera are two individuals that hit it off instantly. Both the W1960 pub chair and the

W1 lounge chair are special editions adorned with the Luis Trenker logo on the backrest. The chairs were first introduced to the public at the Orgatec trade show and later, at the beginning of December, made available for purchase in a pop-up store in Augsburg. Those who tend to spend long periods of time on pub chairs will be happy to know that Luis Trenker has teamed up with Daunenstep, a down duvet specialist from South Tyrol, to create bedding in the typical Luis Trenker design. The results of this collaboration will be presented to the public in January. www.luistrenker.com

Fil Noir Nero Casual Elegance Fil Noir’s range of shirts for men and women is now supplemented with a business line. Thus, Fil Noir bridges the gap between casual and formal while still adhering to the same requirements as the rest of the collection. The shirts, which are hand-crafted exclusively in Europe, are predominantly made of classic full-twisted yarns sourced from renowned Italian weavers.

The business shirt convinces with particularly fine full-twisted yarns up to NE 140/2, eight stitches per centimetre, and French fell seams. The shirts are carefully pre-washed and ironed.

The distinctive feature is the Oxford inner yoke and ridge in grey melange with a black AMF seam, a so-called hand edge that stems from custom tailors. This particular combination was developed by Fil Noir and is a protectThe business line Fil Noir Nero is a new addition to the Fil Noir product portfolio.

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ed trademark. The business shirts are sensibly priced despite the high quality standards. At a calculation factor of 2.7, the retail prices range from 89.90 to 119 Euros.

Fil Noir is part of the history of the Manzini textile factory, which was founded in 1889. In 1899, an earthquake destroyed the only two Italian sewing thread factories and their yarn stocks. As a result, the Manzini brothers, Luca and Lorenz, had to supply customers with lily-white shirts with black contrast seams from their own yarn stock. This proved very popular, which is why Fil Noir - the black yarn - became the hallmark of the premium shirts. In 2012, Swiss Hest GmbH obtained the license of the Tuscan company and translates the original manufactory approach with corresponding quality standards into a more modern design language. www.fil-noir.com

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C.P. Company Innovation & Function In November 2015, the Italian sportswear brand C.P. Company was acquired by Tristate Holdings. The latter also owns the brands EFM, Cissonne, and Haski. Ever since, the new owner has invested heavily in material development, dying techniques, and processing technology.

The fabrics of the upcoming collections might have a classic look, but they are packed with countless high-tech features such as three-layered membranes or a new level of welded seams, which cannot be spotted at first glance.

The collection is smart, urban, and “dressedup”, but always remains quiet and discreet - in line with the motto of the designers Paul Harvey and Alexander Pungetti. The autumn/winter 2017 collection unites the characteristics of high-performance sports equipment and the technical cut/design influences of army uniforms, workwear, and traditional British outdoor jackets. In summary: design meets functionality in combination with distinctive Italian fabric innovations and sophisticated dyeing techniques.

The brand’s sales representative in Germany and Austria is Room Nine Agency, a Düsseldorf-based business owned by Torsten Müller.

The new collection will be showcased in Milan, at the Premium trade show in Berlin, and at the Premium trade fair in Munich. www.cpcompany.com

Be Change Starnberg Native

Friederike Müller, better known as Die Starnbergerin, has developed an exciting retail concept for Starnberg’s “Kirchplatz”.

An end is always a start. Friederike Müller, known for her communication and sales talent, has been successful with Die Starnbergerin, her agency, for years. Now she has decided to start a new era in the former premises of Modehaus Münch. Be Change is the name of the concept that aims to bring the salesroom back to life with the Alpine lifestyle of Luis Trenker, the striking Handstich collection, a Superfood corner, and interior items by Christian Sterl Teppichkultur. The concept is based on permanent change. Events and changing collections are but two measures targeted at keeping the discerning clientele of Starnberg interested. The store is complemented by a comprehensive online and communication concept. It will not only focus on the items in the store, but also communicate lifestyle topics. A special goodie for visitors is the Tesla Destinationcharger Station in front of the shop. www.diestarnbergerin.de

Begg & Company 150 Shades of Scotland

Once again, C.P. Company impresses its customers with discreet designs, functional materials, and Italian refinement.

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Begg & Company, a traditional Scottish weaving mill, recently celebrated its 150th anniversary and decided to mark this milestone accordingly. It launched a special collection consisting of 150 different colours of cashmere. The colours, which celebrate the company’s Scottish roots, are inspired by the green and blue tones of local nature and coastal landscapes. The culmination is a limited edition of 150 scarves, which boast a checked pattern woven in all 150 colours. The renowned manufactory was founded in Paisley in 1866. The city is known for its weaving craftsmanship and the eponymous pattern. Begg & Company specialises in local manufacturing of scarves, stoles, and blankets made of finest cashmere, wool, and silk yarns. All products are inspired by the colours of nature and classic tartan patterns; this proves how deeply - even 150 years down the line - the business remains rooted in Scottish culture. The retail prices range from 90 Euros for simple wool scarves to 299 Euros for light cashmere scarves. Special editions can cost up to 2,000 Euros. www.beggandcompany.com

The anniversary edition of Begg & Co is made of 150 different cashmere yarns in various colours.

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW January 17 – 19 2017 House of JOOP! Atelier I Luckenwalder Str. 4 – 6 10963 Berlin

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Woolrich John Rich & Bros.

Global Merger

Woolrich Inc, a US-based company, and Woolrich Europe, a subsidiary of WP Lavori in Corso from Bologna, merged in November 2016 with the aim of increasing and accelerating growth.

The headquarters of the merged entity are in London; this is where the Woolrich line John Rich & Bros will be the focus of corporate strategy. Branches exist in New York City, Pennsylvania, Bologna, and Milan. Up until now, WP Lavori in Corso has been a licensee of Woolrich for Europe and Asia. Newly founded Woolrich International has 300 employees and will handle all production-related activities of the brand. The new entity is managed by Cristina Calori, the managing director of WP Lavori in Corso.

She says: “We are infinitely proud of this collaboration. For more than 32 years, we have built this great relationship between the families behind Woolrich and WP Lavori in Corso. We are dedicated to continuing the successful business model that promotes the global development of the brand.” Andrea Canè, the creative director of Woolrich Europe, has been appointed as global creative director. He is now solely responsible for the brand’s holistic appearance and explains: “Woolrich is America’s oldest outdoor clothing brand; its history runs parallel to that of the United States itself. That’s what the brand is all about. Due to the merger, we have been afforded an opportunity to create a global brand perception and will, in addition, present a new, contemporary outerwear project.” Paolo Corinaldesi serves as chief executive of Woolrich International. Nicholas Brayton, a seventh-generation descendant of the founder John Rich, will continue to run the North American market in his capacity as president of Woolrich Inc. The estimated annual revenue in 2016 is 170 million Euros. The aim is to increase revenue by 17% per year between 2017 and 2020. The ultimate goal is to achieve 265 million Euros group revenue with approximately 500 employees. To this end, the brand plans to increase the number of own stores to 60 worldwide and has EUR 45m to invest in this expansion programme. Woolrich International’s strategy already includes the option to list shares in the company in five years.

This move would then mark the start of the group’s second growth phase. www.woolrich.com

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Andrea Canè, the global creative director of Woolrich, talking to style in progress.

“We are very happy to take the brand to the next level now.“

Andrea Canè

What were the main reasons for the merger?

The merger has been a natural process based on many years of collaboration: from the first distribution deal in 1982, the European license in 1999, and - finally - the global licence in 2008. The merger of the two companies was the completion of a natural process. WP Lavori has always been perceived as much more than a mere licensee, mainly because the company has strived to create “value” for the brand and enhance its positioning.

Who was the driving force behind the merger?

The driving force has always been the firm belief in Woolrich and we are very happy to take the brand to the next level now.

We are presented with great opportunities, both in terms of new markets for Woolrich John Rich & Bros as a leading outerwear brand and the re-launch of the outdoor line.

What impact will this step have on the brand’s design and global product range policy?

We need to become more international. Europe remains very important, but we need to improve our visibility in North America and Asia. We need to be on the global map of outerwear, in the same way that we already are in Europe. Design will be a key driver in this process. Our team is already international and we need to invest in the development of new products. This applies to the outerwear segment, as well as some of our other major categories such as knitwear, fleece, and shirts. We need to have a solid full collection on a global scale while also allowing the possibility to include special products to cover local demands.

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American Vintage Austria under Self-Management As of the 1st of November 2016, all Austrian customers are managed by Germany-based American Vintage GmbH. Orders can be placed via the showroom in Munich and - during the main order phases - via the temporary showrooms in Vienna and Salzburg. “We offer our partners a very relaxed, flexible, and unrestrained working environment without major risks. There are no minimum orders and no lot classifications.

In addition, our customers can re-order via our re-order programme within 48 hours at any time. 70 percent of our production takes place in Europe in countries such as Portugal and Bulgaria. Furthermore, we have a very short lead time of four to six weeks. Goods that are ordered in January and February are delivered in March and April. The past year was very successful for us. During autumn/winter 2016, the revenue generated with existing customers soared by up to 100 percent. Some of our partners are experiencing continuous double-digit stock turnover rates and pre-discount sales ratios ranging from 65 to 75 percent. This makes work very enjoyable for everyone involved. In the future, we hope to serve 250 customers with a maximum of 300 PoS in Germany and Austria. This gives the brand the right drive without being over-distributed, yet still allows it to be visible on the market”, says Martina Schmidl, the wholesale director for Germany and Austria at American Vintage.

The brand’s retail expansion, which was launched in June 2015, led to own stores in Berlin, Hamburg, Munich, and Cologne. Last year, stores were added in Frankfurt and Zurich. The latter is the first brand-managed store in Switzerland. In addition, American Vintage now has two concession areas at Oberpollinger in Munich.

In the first half of 2017, the brand plans the following new store openings: Berlin-Mitte (female and male store respectively), Stuttgart, and Geneva. American Vintage operates approximately 120 stores worldwide and plans 30 international openings in 2017. www.americanvintage-store.com

American Vintage’s short-term collections ensure that the risks for the brand’s customers remain low.

Glücklich Honest and Earthy

Customisation events such as the one at Stereo Muc are part of Mey Story’s brand strategy.

Mey Story T-Shirts on Tour Shortly after the official launch of the Mey Story collection in 2015, the Mey team, which is based in Albstadt, started organising first customisation events at carefully selected retail partners. The aim is to establish Mey Story as an independent brand by presenting the sustainability background, the environmentally friendly production process, and all quality features of the products - which are all hand-crafted in Germany - as authentically as possible. “During the events at the retailers, customers are afforded an opportunity to have individual initials embroidered on their Mey Story t-shirts and laundry items - either as their

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own favourite item or as a perfect gift idea. Customers can choose from different fonts and colours; they can also choose the placement of the embroidery. A seamstress from the production facility in Albstadt provides immediate impressions of the craftsmanship our products are based on. This allows customers to experience our passion for special items, perfection, and quality”, says Michael Prues, the head of business development at Mey Story. This year, the grand tour has - so far - visited the likes of Engelhorn in Mannheim, Stulz in Waldshut-Tiengen, Stereo in Munich, Wirschke in Düsseldorf, and Lodenfrey in Munich. The tour will continue next year. www.meystory.com

Claudia Heiss and Christoph Steiner, the founders of Glücklich, have seen their small brand celebrate achievements that are more than respectable. The collection, which hails from the mountains of South Tyrol (from Eppan, to be precise), inspires its customers as a true all-season product. In addition to knitted jackets that come very close to a traditional “Janker”

The perfect addition to the collection of South Tyrolean label Glücklich: the “Wetterfleck”, made of Bavarian loden and coated with Teflon, is a real all-rounder.

and loden or cotton canvas backpacks in various colours, the two fashion entrepreneurs now also offer a parka model.

However, they have decided not to call it a parka. The new model has been given the rather rustic name “Wetterfleck”. It is made of Bavarian loden and coated with Teflon. Thus, the jacket is the perfect companion for all mountain-related and urban activities. The “Wetterfleck” is also made to last many seasons.

“We create products that don’t adhere to normal fashion cycles.

We utilise Alpine raw materials such as the wool of sheep from the Vilnöss Valley, which is the oldest breed of sheep in South Tyrol. The knitting and finishing processes take place in regional businesses. In order to express their vision for Glücklich, Claudia Heiss and Christoph Steiner have opened a small store in Eppan. The shop, which is also named Glücklich and located in the village square of Eppan, was even featured in Monocle, a renowned design magazine.

Marketing, distribution, public relations, and design - the owners and their two employees take care of all aspects pertaining to the label. “This approach is important to us; we are eager to ensure that Glücklich has and retains a soul”, Christoph Steiner explains. The retail prices for blouses start at 130 Euros, while men’s cardigans start at 239 Euros. The aforementioned “Wetterfleck” costs 389 Euros.

Glücklich offers wholesalers a margin of 2.6. www.gluecklich.it

CLOSE D .CO M

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M U N IC H FA S H IO N W E E K February 11th – 13th 2017 | 10 AM – 6 PM

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Lardini’s flagship store in Milan’s “Via Gesù” opens in January.

Lardini Retail Appeal A company like Lardini needs to go through a whole series of internal processes before announcing plans to open its own store in Milan’s “Via Gesù” in January. These processes are reflected in the significantly expanded collection, which now also includes accessories such as shoes and small leather items. However, Lardini has worked on all product groups: “Especially in terms of knitwear and shirts, Lardini can now offer a product depth and selection that can easily keep up with any product specialist”, says Malte Kötteritz, the owner of Heritage Agents, after a successful order round for the pre-collection. Lardini has invested heavily to gain this new competence. Lardini also hired new employees, which underlines once again that the company strives to mature into a full-range brand.

Thus, Lardini has every reason to look forward to the opening. The two-storey shop was designed by Studio Guarino Casal Ribeiro. Alongside Lardini, the store has reserved half of its 300 square metre sales area for the brand Pasini. Both brands have been given a very distinctive design language in terms of interior furnishing. www.lardini.com

Blue-blooded cats star in Habsburg’s latest advertising campaign.

Habsburg Aristocats Which brand wouldn’t love to have the reach of a viral cat video? Little kittens can easily generate more than 50 million views. Habsburg’s Aristocats campaign is looking to harness this popularity, albeit much subtler and in line with the brand’s style. Josef Fischnaller, an Austrian art photographer known in the international art world for his ironically alienated photographs, implemented the campaign. Princess Isabella of Smaragdenburg, Eduard the Fifth of Paulinenwald, and other aristocratic cats with an impeccable lineage feature in the photographs wearing the finest Habsburg outfits. “He sets the Habsburg Aristocats in scene ironically, yet magically real.

Fischnaller’s works are contradictory and allusive. He blurs the generic boundaries between painting and photography by - as he puts it - painting with light. It’s a tongue-in-cheek homage to the old masters of the art world”, the company says.

2017 is a special year for Habsburg. The brand turns 25, but will merely celebrate this anniversary quietly with events at carefully selected customers in autumn.

As a “Twen”, Habsburg has decided to treat its website to a complete makeover and itself to a brand-appropriate social media concept.www.habsburg.co.at

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IQ+Berlin The Spirit of Berlin During the Berlin Fashion Week, IQ+Berlin will once again supply the Premium hostesses with a limited edition of bomber jackets with lambskin collars. The brand already provided the Premium employees with cool bomber jackets in July 2016.

Over the last nine years, IQ+Berlin has made a name for itself as a sophisticated upper-casual collection. It sources its high-quality fabrics from carefully selected Italian weavers that focus on finishing in line with the traditions of true craftsmanship. The collection draws its inspiration from Berlin, especially in its role as an up-and-coming, lively metropolis. As a result, the craftsmanship-oriented range is characterised by an urban style. Until the end of January, the latest parkas, bomber jackets, and wool coats are on display at a 50 square metre pop-up store in Berlin’s “Rosenthaler Strasse 66”.

Here, the brand also showcases a special limited edition. The pop-up store also organises promotions with bloggers and sprayers.

The latter customise parkas in graffiti look upon request. www.iqplusberlin.com The name says it all: IQ+Berlin combines the spirit of the German capital with tailoring and high-quality Italian materials.

www.wunderfell.com

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Colmar Originals Cumulative Innovation

Marlino Top Quality and Perfect Timing Those who are familiar with the Marlino GmbH know that the company is a laboratory for new trends and brands. The repertoire of brands has been expanded since the summer. Without doubt, the core competence remains the outerwear segment, but the modern retail trade and changing market situation has promoted the inception of new, smaller labels with a clear maxim: top quality with the right timing at good and fair prices. “As a private label producer, we have acquired in-depth know-how in terms of jackets, blouses, jersey wear, and knitwear, and established contacts with top producers worldwide”, says Mel Nienaber, the designer of Marlino. Silk Sisters, a womenswear label specialising in feminine blouses and dresses made of stretch-silk and elastic cotton, was successfully launched last summer. In time for the autumn/winter 17/18 order season, two new projects are in the pipeline. It Peace will offer selected highlights like oversize parkas with fake fur.

Another newcomer for this season is Lost Generation, a concentrated collection of jackets for women and men. Be it biker jackets or lambskin pilot styles, the pieces are subjected to an elaborate ageing process to make them look vintage. Marlino itself continues to focus on lambskin, but the concept deviates from the pure winter jacket. The trend points towards transitional items, which Marlino will cover next season with three lines ranging from winter clothing to light indoor and transitional models. Those who desire feminine, elegant lambskin coats will simply adore Wunderfell.

The label focuses on quality and sustainability. This applies to the production process, which is based on competence rather than the cheapest offer, and the materials. The leather and fur utilised by the label are by-products of the food industry.

Since December 2016, Marlino has been represented at Marlino & Friends - a new concept store in Mayrhofen in Zillertal. Alongside fashion by Marlino, customers can browse labels such as Warm Me, Hannes Röther, and B Belt, as well as furniture by Möbelkolonie. www.marlino.com / www.wunderfell.com / www.silk-sisters.com / www.it-peace.com

Marlino sheds some lambskin to create transitional pieces.

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Colmar Originals is the more fashionable collection by Colmar. It specialises in the re-interpretation of the brand’s earliest designs.

SoSue Good Stories Since November, we can surf to www. so-sue.com to peruse a new blogzine that strives to combine good stories about individuals and sustainable products with curated shopping. The driving force behind SoSue is Sue Giers, a Gala columnist and managing director of Linette Hamburg. She started working on her start-up project in January 2016. “As a former TV journalist, I am a very curious person. I want to know how the world ticks - especially with reference to women. This is why I decided to develop an online project dedicated to exciting topics and special projects”, Sue Giers explains. “In addition, the stories provide me with a lot of input for new designs and ideas.”

The result is, for instance, the current SoSue knitwear collection. It consists of sweaters, turtleneck styles, and cardigans; all items can be purchased via the online portal. It also offers fashion by the likes of Kittima Milan, Sminfinity, and Isabel Marant, complemented by jewellery, bags, and living accessories.

For Colmar Originals, autumn/winter 2017 is a season of innovation.

Men are treated to down-padded, satin bomber jackets with horizontal stitching, either with hood or without.

The brand also offers coats and parkas made of padded micro-fibre material, as well as waisted jackets made of an incredibly light, waterproof stretch fabric with wool-effect. Women can choose between a bomber jacket and a conventional jacket made of shiny, laminated stretch fabric, as well as various models in an innovative crushed origami look with a tone-in-tone finish.

The brand also boasts an extra-long coat with remarkable stitching.

Eye-catchers are jackets with a plissé effect, as well as neoprene jackets for both men and women. The latter are bonded with a wool-like lining. The collection is perfected by additional variants made of diverse materials, including classics, figure-hugging fits, and deconstructed styles. Among these one can also find new oversize fits for women. The final touch to the Colmar Originals collection is added by elaborate knitwear made of cashmere alpaca. Oh wait! Let’s not forget the slim-fit five-pocket trousers. www.colmar.it

For this year, Sue Giers and her team of authors are planning further own designs. There will also be contributions from new guest authors.

Sue Giers recently launched www.so-sue.com, a new blogzine.

1 7 .0 1 . – 19.01.2017

PREMIUM BERLIN Halle 3, Stand H3-D15 Luckenwalder Str. 4 - 6 10963 Berlin

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HOT1 Gusswerk Event Fabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern

Come and see!

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TRACHT & COUNTRY PREMIERE

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FASHION PREMIERE Gusswerk Eventfabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern

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HOT2 Gusswerk Event Fabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern

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habsburg.co.at sales@habsburg.co.at

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Derek Rose Luxury Leisurewear The name Derek Rose stands primarily for classic pyjamas and housecoats for women, men, and children. The London-based family business, which was founded in 1926, founded its sustainable success on these products. Today, the brand is run by Sacha Rose, who represents the third generation of the family. He is the son of Derek Rose and the grandson of Lou Rose, the founder. Over the years, the brand has expanded its portfolio without losing sight of its own DNA. Now it not only offers classic nightwear with specially printed designs on exclusive materials such as cotton and silk, but also men’s underwear made of high-quality Pima cotton or delicate, soft, and heat-regulating micro-modal. The same fibres are also used for casual, high-quality loungewear for men and women, including t-shirts, leisure pants, and tank tops. The collection is complemented by a sweat programme made of pure cotton. The latter includes sweaters, shorts, and pants in a minimalist style with small details. The harmonious Derek Rose collection is completed by a high-end cashmere line, which also offers an extensive NOS service.

Erika Palese’s Premium Brand Group is Derek Rose’s distributor for Germany and Austria.

In those two countries, Derek Rose supplies 50 retail customers, including Breuninger, Hirmer, Lodenfrey, Ludwig Beck, August Pfüller, Zum Jockey Club in Vienna, and Herrenausstatter.de. www.derek-rose.com, www.premiumbrandgroup.de

Lucky de Luca Being Successful Valentino de Luca is more than satisfied with his brands Lucky de Luca and Barb’One. The founder and designer says: “We are developing steadily and - above all - sustainably. I don’t do risky deals for the sake of growth. I prefer building success step-by-step with my faithful and reliable customers.” This also includes that both brands consistently refuse stock programmes: “If we’re talking about one, two, or three pieces, then we try to make it possible. However, our general approach is to supply what has been ordered. Beyond that, one should simply remember to write more on the order slip during the next order round.” Valentino de Luca refuses to accept the fact that stock and re-order services have become commonplace for many competitors. “The result is that the brands push their surplus via outlets or sales platforms, sometimes below the production price. Nobody earns money that way. On the contrary, it ruins the margins for all of us. And it ruins the brand too. Why would I buy a shirt, which I have already bought on a leftover platform at a reduced price, at full price in a store? Consumers don’t want to be taken for idiots!” Valentino de Luca can rest assured that his customers

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The tradition-steeped Derek Rose brand always promises highest quality standards. Today, this doesn’t merely apply to classic pyjamas, its brand core.

Dornschild New Sales Agencies

Clean distribution and no scrap goods - this is how Lucky de Luca protects the margins of its retail partners.

appreciate such bold statements.

They are thrilled that the collections

by Lucky de Luca and Barb’One pursue a “clean” distribution strategy. The two lines remain creative for the upcoming season: “Lucky de Luca is richly decorated with a lot of details, while the side strips of Barb’One trousers are made of tie, floral, and glitter fabrics.”

How much fun is that? www.luckydeluca.de

The waistcoat brand Dornschild is pleased with the feedback it is receiving from retailers. Last winter, some models were sold out two weeks after they arrived at the stores. For spring 2017, the brand introduced waistcoats with hoods, which will also feature in autumn/ winter 2017. The company argues that waistcoats are the perfect alternative to jackets and can also be worn underneath jackets.

The special feature is that the rear section is also made of the waistcoat material, which means that a Dornschild waistcoat completes virtually every outfit. The team headed by Jörn Boysen has managed to recruit a number of prominent brand ambassadors such as the presenters Daniel Aminati, Sebastian Höffner, and Thore Schölermann, the singer Sasha, the actors Benno Fürmann, Götz Otto, and Jo Weil, and Giovanni Zarella’s swing band Vintage Vegas. This level of success is reflected in the expansion of the distribution network.

Last season, the brand added Levi Meyer’s Quadro Promotion AG of Switzerland to its list of sales represent-

Waistcoats with hoods are Dornschild’s latest innovation.

atives. From January 2017, Gregor Hradecky’s Hradecky Fashion will cover the Austrian market and Michael Mitterer’s The Circus & The Friends Agency the German one. www.dornschild.com

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Biella Collezioni x Thindown Welcome to the Revolution Thindown is gracing the market with a completely new fabric. The Thindown padding is made of Downpass, an Öko-Tex and ERDS certified type of goose and duck down. It is available in various thicknesses and, thus, thermal grades.

Many problems associated with down production are solved by this innovation.

The layer can, for example, be cut to size easily, which facilitates the use in ready-to-wear clothing. The insulating properties of Thindown are better than those of loose down; there is also no risk of the filling losing volume. In addition, the design of the lining prevents water from penetrating the interior. The lining remains dry when the outer layer gets wet. A selection of well-known manufacturers uses the innovative material in their autumn/winter collections, including Biella Collezioni. The retail prices of the approximately 25 jackets and coats range from 750 Euros for thinly wadded jackets to 1,890 Euros for coats. Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s D-tails, which is the sales agency for Germany, hopes to persuade a handful of customers to order the innovative range this season. www.biellacollezioni.com, www.thindown.it

A real innovation: Biella Collezioni uses the innovative lining material Thindown, which is made of certified down.

Xacus Welcome, Ladies!

Xacus has been successful with men’s shirts for seventy years.

The label has now decided to launch a collection for women.

However, the new range is not a copy of the men’s collection.

For Xacus Donna, the brand not only hired a new designer who is an experienced blouse specialist, but also chose a different approach in many other respects. The collection is fashionable. It includes a wide range of items, including a maxi-length shirt dress, an off-shoulder blouse, and an oversize blouse without buttons.

The result is quite stunning, which is why the news about the new collection spread like wildfire within the industry. The brand’s trade show booth for the summer season attracted many retailers who were eager to order. The success will become even more visible now that Xacus is hiring agencies in its most important markets. At a calculation factor of 2.9, the purchase prices range from 40 to 90 Euros. The pricing and a delivery of re-ordered items within two weeks are strong arguments. www.xacus.com

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Even Frank Sinatra was a fan of Serapian.

Serapian A Secret (For Now)

The best fabrics and expert processing: Xacus Donna complements the brand’s successful men’s shirt collection.

There are brands that beg the question why they have remained a “secret” for so long. Serapian, an Italian company based in Milan, is one of them. As a manufacturer of high-quality women’s and men’s bags, leather accessories, and travel luggage, it can look back on a 71-year history. The brand was founded by Gina and Stefano Serapian, a newly married couple, in the ruins of the war in 1945. A small house in Milan’s “Via Jommelli” remains the main office of the company, which has developed from a small leather manufactory into a considerable enterprise. The main focus has always been - and still is - on quality, commitment, creativity, and refinement.

When Stefano passed away in the 1970s, his son Ardavast took over the management of the business; it now employs more than 100 specialists. As of autumn/winter 2017/18, ACO Modeagentur Germany, which is run by Michael Schulz, is the sales partner for the German market. “In my opinion, Serapian is an unknown gem in Germany. It’s a wonderful story to explore. We are ready to do just that”, Michael Schulz says. All Serapian products are 100% “Made in Italy”. Due to its qualities, Serapian has enjoyed the trust of leading retailers in the luxury segment for decades. The list includes the likes of La Rinascente, Harrods, and KaDeWe. In addition, the brand operates 25 own stores worldwide. www.serapian.com

COLLEC TION FALL 2017

PREMIUM BERLIN HALLE 3 / B 01 /17/18/19 JANUAR 2017 DÃœSSELDORF SHOWROOM RATHER STR. 49E 5TH FLOOR

WOMEN+MEN / GERMANY NORTH/EAST, MARCO AUGUSTIN, GÄRTNERSTRASSE 18, D-20253 HAMBURG, PHONE +49 40 429 354 38, MARCO AUGUSTIN@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN+MEN / GERMANY WEST, ROLAND GOMOLLA, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 211 943 03 40, ROLANDGOMOLLA@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN+MEN / GERMANY MIDDLE, BIRGITTA ZÖLLER MODEAGENTUR, HEYNE FABRIK HAUS 12 / 1.STOCK, LILISTRASSE 83E, D-63067 OFFENBACH, PHONE +49 69 401 588 02, MOBIL +49 178 760 53 85, BIRGITTAZOELLER@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN / GERMANY SOUTH-WEST, AGENTUR GÖPPERT2, URS & SVENJA GÖPPERT, EURO FASHION CENTER / 3. ETAGE, MAHDENTALSTRASSE 100, D-71065 SINDELFINGEN, PHONE +49 7031 792 452, MOBIL +49 172 633 19 27, SVENJAGOEPPERT@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN / GERMANY SOUTH, MASCHAGENCY GMBH & CO. KG, ANGELIKA MALZACHER, OSKAR-SCHLEMMER-STR. 23, D-80807 MÜNCHEN, PHONE +49 89 124 758 00, MOBIL +49 172 768 555 1, ANGELIKAMALZACHER@BETTER-RICH.COM MEN / GERMANY SOUTH-WEST / GERMANY SOUTH, FASHIONWORKS, AGENTUR THOMAS VOGEL, FRANKFURTER RING 162, D-80807 MÜNCHEN, PHONE +49 89 350 649 48, MOBIL +49 179 460 352 4, THOMASVOGEL@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN+MEN / AUSTRIA, ROOM WITH A VIEW, CHRISTIAN OBOJES, STELZHAMERSTRASSE 5A, A-5020 SALZBURG, PHONE +43 662 875 651, OFFICE@ROOMWITHAVIEW.AT WOMEN+MEN / NETHERLANDS, BETTER RICH, THOMAS-ANDREAS DREXLER, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 2871 995 789 22, ANDREASDREXLER@BETTER-RICH.COM WOMEN+MEN / SWITZERLAND, KAMM+KAMM COMPANY, PATRICK KAMM, SEESTRASSE 95, CH-8800 THALWIL, PHONE +41 44 771 75 65, INFO@KAMMCOMPANY.CH WOMEN+MEN / BELGIUM, GAB, ALAIN BROEKAERT, ASSESTEENWEG 96, B-1740 TERNAT, PHONE: +32 2 456 17 40, FAX: +32 2 456 17 50, MOBIL: +32 475 26 66 74, ALAIN-BROEKAERT@GAB.EU

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Ben And New Showroom in Berlin and Sales Team Expansion After Munich, Hamburg, and Düsseldorf, Ben And has decided to open a permanent showroom in Berlin (Köpenicker Strasse 18). Due to four new additions to the sales team, the fashion agency now has a total of 18 employees. The goal of Ben Botas, the owner of Ben And, is to offer his customers comprehensive service. One of the reasons why the service level of Ben And is so high is that the agency enjoys close ties with BAS Traders, a logistics, marketing, and distribution specialist managed by Ben Botas and two partners. At BAS Traders, 80 employees deal with licenses, imports, distribution, warehouse services, and - last but not least - the marketing of goods via own online and retail stores.

The Ben Sherman online store is set to be launched in the first quarter of 2017.

There are also plans to expand the brand’s bricks-and-mortar operations. In 2017, the agency will open a Ben Sherman store in Hamburg. It will be followed by a store in Frankfurt in 2018.

The agency has also added four new brands to its portfolio: Canadian premium jacket label Moose Knuckles, Italian menswear specialists Hamaki-Ho and Brooksfield, and Italian womenswear brand Gotha.

Labels: Ben Sherman, Brooksfield, Cervolante, Fortezza, Gotha, Hamaki-Ho, Iblues, Ivy Copenhagen, Manuel Ritz, Mason’s, Matinique, Moose Knuckles, Sand Ben And, Munich/Hamburg/ Düsseldorf/Berlin/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com

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Die Hinterhofagentur “We Like It” For the coming season, agency owner Dominik Meuer has adopted a clear motto: “All collections - no matter whether existing or new - must convince us 150 percent. This requirement applies to both the product and - increasingly - to our suppliers’ partner qualities in terms of delivery quality, re-order ability, and service.

If all these factors fit, it can create success.” The women’s cashmere collection by Wyse of London is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Die Hinterhofagentur. The knitwear range is defined by unconventional cuts, sporty and casual tops and bottoms, My Sunday Morning is one of the new additions to and unusual details. A capsule within Hinterhofagentur’s brand portfolio. the collection is, for example, called Rainbow Edition, which is characterised by multi-coloured stripes. The purchase prices range from 92 to 98 Euros. Another new addition is My Sunday Morning, a Parisian womenswear label. Designer Virginie Guarisco shows a mixture of cool Californian Boho lifestyle and French romantic-chic (purchase prices between 34 and 120 Euros). Hod, a womenswear label from Paris, and Uniform Jeans, a re-entry that specialises in menswear, complete the list of newcomers. Portofiori, a Neapolitan shirt label, experienced a very positive start in spring and continues its success story (purchase prices between 21 and 37 Euros). This winter, the agency also plans to focus on Cape Horn, a label that specialises in jackets for women and men. As a secret tip from Veneto, the down specialist has already managed to win over numerous customers in the German-speaking market. Dominik Meuer believes that the success is based on quality, colour selection, and high-end details.

Labels: Bob, Breco’s, Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Ginger & Ruby, Hod, Koike, Lab Dip, My Bro Tie, My Sunday Morning, Portofiori, Rose & Rose, The Jacksons, Uniform Jeans, Wool & Co, Wyse Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

room with a view New Additions “While others streamline their portfolio, we have added six new brands for the new season”, says Christian Obojes, the owner of the fashion agency. One of the main reasons for this is that some portfolio brands performed surprisingly well last season. “Arkk and Laidback London, two footwear collections, really surprised us.” Christian Obojes believes that the recently added brands can follow suit: “Moose Knuckles of Canada is an exciting outdoor jacket collection. In terms of the women’s segment, we have decided to focus on blouses by Xacus and So Sisters. The first-named specialises in clean and classic models, while the latter is at the absolute peak of fashion.” New additions to the accessories department are Alto, the Italian market leader for fashionable socks, and Lovat & Green, a scarf collection that hails from Bilbao. Furthermore, the agency’s team is

reinforced by a returnee: Julia Mayr-Reisch. She starts off in the customer service department and will help out in the sales division during the respective seasons. Julia Mayr-Reisch is certainly a welcome and familiar face within the team of room with a view. There’s also news regarding Warm Me. The beanie collection is now complemented by shirts, sweaters, and pullovers. “We are delighted that the collection is so popular. We have managed to gain three excellent wholesale partners: Petra Esparza-McAlpine in Germany, Indigofera in London, and Apropos in New York.”

Labels: 7 For All Mankind, Alto, Annabel Ingall, Arkk, Articles of Society, Better Rich, Ecoalf, Hanky Panky, Laidback London, Lovat & Green, Moonboot, Moose Knuckels, Pomandere, Opportuno, Oswaldo Trucchi, Pyrenex, R13, Rebel, Roque, RRD, Stand, So Sisters, Steven K., Tkees, Warm Me, Xacus room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at

The ready-to-wear collection by Warm Me, which is always aligned with the label’s beanies in terms of colour, has excellent references within the international retail environment.

Moose Knuckles is one of the new additions to Ben And’s brand portfolio.

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CP Fashion Little Gem Komet und Helden Extension Komet und Helden, a fashion agency based in Munich, is opening its extended showroom to coincide with the start of the autumn/winter 2017 order round.

“Due to the redevelopment of the premises, we now have a level, uninterrupted presentation area that allows us to establish concept areas for newcomer brands. Naturally, it will also continue to feature prominent brands”, says Henrik Soller, the managing director of Komet und Helden. “This makes our product presentation more coherent. It also makes the order process more convenient and Paltò focuses clearer for our customers.” The on the modern newly designed office area will, in interpretation addition, be utilised to expand the of retro charm. agency’s customer service. The ultimate goal is to provide the best service possible.

A newcomer in the brand portfolio is the T-Jacket label by Claudio Tonello from the Italian town Comuda. After launching the Tonello collection, which is based on 50 years of tailoring experience and set out to reinvent the jacket, in 2001, he launched T-Jacket for men and women in 2015. The newest collection consists of casual and less formal jackets, without sacrifices in terms of quality and design. It offers jackets and coats in both single and double breasted versions, including military jackets and waistcoats which can be - on request – delivered in transparent plastic tubes. These tubes can be sealed with corks and hung up.

The Paltò label from Lucca is run by the Italian Paganelli family, which also founded the renowned Peuterey brand. Paltò embodies Italian spirit, style, and the craftsmanship of tailoring. The current collection pays tribute to the actor Marcello Mastroianni, an Italian film icon. One example is the Marcello, an oversized coat with raglan sleeves. The collection also includes coats made of three-dimensional chine fabrics, jacquards, and graphic patterns on worsted wool.

Labels: 7 for all Mankind, AG, Baracuta, Bevilacqua, Blauer USA, Bowery, Diemme, Gino-B, Happiness, Hartford, J.W. Brine, June 7.2, Molo11, Ottod’Ame, Paltò, Save the Duck, Soho, Soho Deluxe, T-Jacket, The.Nim, Timothy Everest Komet & Helden GmbH, Munich/Germany, muenchen@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de

Oboros, a US jacket label, is among the new additions to the brand portfolio of CP Fashion. The collection combines the latest technical fabrics with down. It is listed at approximately 500 retailers in the US and has decided to enter the German, Swiss, and Austrian markets with the assistance of CP Fashion.

The classics at CP Fashion include Silver Jeans, a brand that hails from Canada. Eric Oberstein has now assumed sole sales responsibility for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

The current autumn/winter collection is presented under the motto “Kings of Indigo”. It features specially developed denim fabrics and elaborate finishings. The list of silhouettes includes hyper-stretch variants with “Power Lift” and bi-stretch models with shaping technology with a soft touch.

In addition, the vintage styles impress with functionality and comfort. To this end, the brand developed elastic denims for men, which combine an authentic look with utmost comfort.

The Jeans Shop New York label was launched in New York’s Meatpacking District in 2003. Even after the brand moved to Soho in New York, custom-made jeans and repair services for jeans remain an integral part of its business. “The cult label has developed into a real brand and offers a wide range of Selvage Denim jeans in various silhouettes and washes”, says Reinhart Oberstein, the managing director of CP Fashion. “The authentic look without a hint of playfulness combined with the highest level of craftsmanship - is difficult to find these days. I am very proud that this little gem is part of our brand portfolio and I am sure that we can find many fans in Germany too.”

Labels: Articles of Society, Greywire, Silver Jeans, Robins Jeans, Chaser, Orobos, Jeans Shop CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen/Düsseldorf/Munich/Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de

Silver Jeans is one of the fixed stars in CP Fashion’s portfolio.

CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl Less is More

Colmar’s ski collection is developing excellently.

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Christian Teufl has decided to focus his brand portfolio - with a very positive result. “We generated more growth in 2016 with fewer collections”, he reveals. “In the case of the Furla collection, we have experienced seasonal growth of 35% in Germany and Austria, with fewer customers.” The new showroom in Munich’s “Residenzstrasse” has seemingly paid off already in terms of Furla. “It’s great to work in the city centre in an upscale environment - both for our customers and our entire team in Munich.” Christian Teufl is also counting on his proven brand partners in his showroom in Salzburg. Colmar, for instance, has developed particularly well - not only in terms of the fashion collection, but also in terms of the ski collection. The brand Twin Set has come up with a collection that is perfectly suited for the sales floors, which is why - according to Teufl himself - the brand managed to generate excellent sales figures despite the mild temperatures in autumn. “Long-running performers such as FTC Cashmere, Marlino, and Peuterey are also very stable and it’s a joy to work with them.” The new representative for these brands is Esther Schoberleitner, who until recently worked at Agentur Hans Schoberleitner.

Labels: 0039 Italy, 120%, Colmar Original, Colmar Ski, FTC Cashmere, Furla, Marlino, Manila Grace, P448, Peuterey, Silk Sisters, Twin Set by Simona Barbieri CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl, 5020 Salzburg/Austria & 80333 Munich/Germany, office@teufl.cc, www.teufl.cc

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Agentur Schwarte Focus on Womenswear Hide & Jack is a sneaker collection that hails from the Italian city of Treviso. The label, which was founded by Alberto Francoleschi and Niccolò Nicoletti, is a new addition to the brand portfolio of Agentur Schwarte. The full-grain leather sneakers are characterised by clean looks such as croc styles, suede, and braided leather details. The retail prices range from 189 to 219 Euros.

Another new addition is the menswear line by Weber + Weber Sartoria from Austria. Its mix of traditional Alpine fabrics and processing techniques, as well as its cool Italian tailoring, have already persuaded retailers such as Strolz, Lorenz Bach, and Strictly Herrmann.

Furthermore, the Munich-based agency is now the representative of the Jet Set collection for the Austrian market. “The brand’s DNA is recognisable. The quality levels and fits are excellent. Consequently, the current autumn/ winter season is proving to be very successful”, Matthias Schwarte explains.

Since autumn/winter 2016, Agentur Schwarte has supplied renowned retail customers like Braun, Schnitzler, Sagmeister, and Bailly + Diehl with People of Shibuya. “The jacket collection is perceived as one of the most innovative of its kind in Italy”, says Matthias Schwarte. The focus has now shifted to the womenswear line by People of Shibuya. The collection for women is being expanded with functional features, adorning details, and reflecting logos. Fil Noir has also decided to expand its women’s collection and strives to make it more feminine. An example for this new approach is the brand’s opaque jersey wear in superfine 60GG. The open edges don’t fray. Parajumpers has also shifted its focus to femininity in terms of its womenswear line. It offer many innovative novelties, certified saga furs, and nafa fur trimmings, which are now complemented by lambskin elements.

Labels: Armani Jeans, Armani Collezioni, A Fish Named Fred, AT.P.CO, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Hide & Jack, Jet Set, Lodenfrey 1842, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, PG Jeans, Sundek, Weber + Weber Sartoria, Wunderfell Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de

The jacket collection by People of Shibuya is cool and innovative.

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D-tails GmbH Viva Italia

Italian roots and Italian expertise form the core of D-tails brand portfolio.

Heritage Agents Of Course There’s News Heritage Agents’ Michael Brockmann and Malte Kötteritz had a lot to say in answer to the obligatory question about agency-related news. They may not have added new labels, but there is no shortage of offers. The young agency is being overrun by requests. However, the two partners want to give themselves some space in order to do the exciting changes within their existing portfolio justice.

Pantaloni Torino, for instance, has revised its entire collection and now offers a total of four clothing lines.

PT01 and PT05 are now complemented by the sub-lines Ghost and Forward. While the former is simply perfect for shops specialising in designer lines, the latter is a creative

Munich-based D-tails has expanded its Italian expertise. One of the new additions to its brand portfolio is Il Bisonte, a Florentine leather brand renowned for rustic bags and accessories for women and men made of naturally tanned cowhide. Another newcomer is Bruno Parise Italia, a handbag label based on Venetian craftsmanship. It designs elegant, feminine handbags with regional braided elements. Momoni, a ready-to-wear line with a “Made in Italy” seal, offers classic, comfortable, and refined pieces. The latter completes the Italian look for women.

“These additions mean that we have continued to expand our portfolio of special niche brands from Italy”, says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, the owner of D-tails.

The agency is responsible for the communication and distribution of all brands in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Labels: Alpha, Bark, Bosideng, Bruno Parise Italia, Costumein, Cruna, Essent’ial, G.H. Bass & Co, Gherardini, Il Bisonte, Lumberjack, Massimo Alba, Momoni, Pollini, pektre, Globe-Trotter, Up To Be D-tails GmbH, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.20207771, info@d-tails.de, www.d-tails.de

option for stores focusing on sportswear. Every single one of the four clothing lines expresses its own, unique figurative language. “Certainly, this brings about numerous possibilities and allows for a selective expansion of the distribution network”, says Malte Kötteritz. Lardini, on the other hand, has invested heavily in the suit and blazer sector, the brand’s core. Be it knitwear, ties, shoes, shirts or accessories, customers “can now order in an unprecedented depth”. The shirt label Xacus is another source of constant innovation: “We are extremely pleased with its development. We still see a lot of potential in the market, as it’s - once again a very thrilling collection”, Malte Kötteritz adds.

Labels: 04651/, Andrea Zori, Coats, Jan Mayen, Lardini, Mey Story, Pantaloni Torino, Xacus Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com

ARE YOU ONE OF ‘US’?

NOBIS.COM

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L.B.M. 1911, a new addition to Vestitus’ brand portfolio, is the embodiment of masculine elegance at an affordable price.

This is how cool swim trunks can be. Even James Bond - alias Daniel Craig - is utterly convinced.

Vestitus Innovation without Risk Room Nine Agency Bathing with James Bond Room Nine Agency only recently became the representative of Orlebar Brown, a luxurious swim trunks collection that hails from London. “For example, Daniel Craig wore an Orlebar Brown model in the latest James Bond film”, says Torsten Müller, the managing director of Room Nine Agency. “This really is an outstanding collection.” As of the autumn/winter season, Torsten Müller is also the representative of the collection by Ai Riders on the Storm. Its outdoor jackets with built-in ski goggles are proof of the collection’s high level of functionality.

In addition, the Düsseldorf-based agency focuses its portfolio on brands that offer more than only one pre-order option. “We believe that our customers won’t be able to survive on only one large pre-order per season”, Müller explains. “That’s why we have devised a stock programme for all our collections to ensure that customers can react swiftly. Thus, customers don’t have to tie up all of their capital in a single order. They can therefore re-order in smaller volumes - by phone or directly B2B from us here in the agency.”

Labels: Ai Riders on the Storm, Blake Seven, C.P. Company, Flip Flop the Original, Orlebar Brown, Rainfest Raincouture, Womsh Sneakers Room Nine Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de

As of the autumn/winter 2017 season, the fashion agency Vestitus has added L.B.M. 1911 to its brand portfolio. “This product stands for masculine elegance, innovative fabrics, and perfect fits”, says managing director Volker Haertel. The washed and piece-dyed jackets cost between 429 and 549 Euros in retail, while wool and cashmere qualities are priced between 549 and 799 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 3.0. “The price structure is perfect for the German market”, Volker Haertel argues. “The brand has received far too little attention in recent years; we are striving to change this. We are really enthusiastic about the product, the service, and the cordiality of the company itself.” The current Herno collection also deserves attention, especially as it masterfully combines fashion, functionality, and innovation. Customer service is the priority of the Düsseldorf-based agency. It offers sales support in the form of made-to-measure events, trunk shows, and employee training.

This means that the agency is in very close contact with its retail

Brama Fashion Gallery The White Shirt

Authentic and trend-oriented: Mother is a stalwart brand within Brama Fashion Gallery’s portfolio.

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Fine Edge, a luxury knitwear brand from the US, is the new addition to the Brama Fashion Gallery portfolio. January’s pre-fall collection marks the brand’s debut. The collection focuses on innovative styles and a sophisticated attitude. At a calculation factor of 2.7, the purchase prices range from 140 to 300 Euros.

One of Brama Fashion Gallery’s classics is J Brand, a premium denim brand that recently recalled Susie Crippen as creative director.

Susie Crippen founded the brand with Jeff Rudes in 2004, but left in 2010. Today, J Brand is run by Fast Retailing, a Japanese fashion conglomerate which also owns Uniqlo and Comptoir de Cotonniers.

In November, France-based Equipment

customers and can identify styles that don’t work at an early stage. Jacob Cohën has come up with something truly special in terms of innovation: “The brand plans to offer a type of ‘bonbon’ every season; it will offer one or two new, highly fashionable models that are not part of the collection”, Haertel explains. “These styles are offered to selected customers in order to afford them an opportunity to present individualistic items without risk.”

Labels: Antonelli, Alberto Biani, Fedele, Finamore, Herno, Jacob Cohën, L.B.M. 1911, Olivieri, Santoni, Tortona 21 Vestitus GmbH, Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@vestitus.eu, www.vestitus.eu

celebrated its 40th anniversary with its White Shirt campaign. 40 of Equipment´s closest friends, co-workers, and muses were invited to celebrate the iconic white shirt, the foundation of the brand’s success. The campaign was - and is - promoted on social media with the hash tag #Equipment40th. Equipment was founded in 1976 by Christian Restoin. To this day, the collection honours its rich French heritage in its modern style, which remains feminine despite drawing inspiration from the menswear segment.

Labels: Current/Elliott, Enza Costa, Equipment, Fine Edge, J Brand, James Perse, Local Authority, Mother, Norma Kamali, Opening Ceremony Brama Fashion Gallery, Düsseldorf and Munich/Germany, janine@bramagallery.de, www.bramagallery.de

Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734

Berlin: Premium, Düsseldorf: GDS, Supreme, Hamburg: Fashion Pool, Hannover: Shoes & More Schuhtag, Köln: European Shoe Show, Mainhausen: ANWR First Order, ANWR Fashion Day’s, München: Essenz, Premium, Salzburg: Schuh Austria.

• 60 SAISONABHÄNGIGE MODELLE AUF VORRAT (SO LANG DER VORRAT REICHT) • KOSTENLOSER VERSAND AB ZWEI PAAREN • 30 STANDARD MODELLE AUF VORRAT (DURCHGEHEND) • LIEFERUNG INNERHALB VON ZWEI TAGEN Contact: Sales Support (deutschsprachig), T. +31 13 51 36 930, E. vertrieb@florisvanbommel.de

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Another Souvenir Event Support For the upcoming season, Tommy Wieler and Vanessa Baroni-Wieler have a very special form of sales promotion in mind for their respective retail partners. The event titled “The Souvenir Bazaar” offers all accessories labels represented by their agency in the stores of the aforementioned retailers for up to three days. After this “test phase”, the retail customers are afforded the opportunity to choose from the portfolio brands that performed best.

“By doing this, we reduce the risk for the customer, train the staff on the spot, and are part of the promotion process”, says Vanessa Baroni-Wieler. She believes it is vital to provide new impulses for stores.

The agency, which specialises in accessories, has added some new labels to its portfolio for the coming season. Le Cord,

a label that hails from Stockholm, supplies high-quality charging cables to the likes of Colette, Merci, and Harrods, while Jet Set Candy, a cool jewellery brand from New York, specialises in providing beautiful souvenirs for people infected by the travel bug. The latter’s luggage tags ranging from JFK to LHR and stamp pendants are right on the money. Casual baskets by Giselle Collection of Paris complement the portfolio and are definitely reminiscent of everyone’s last summer holiday.

Labels: Anna + Nina, Annabell Ingall, Bread & Boxers, Briston, Estella Bartlett, Finn & Taylor, Giselle Collection, Jet Set Candy, Le Cord, Nach Bijoux, Stara, Vanessa Baroni, Wood’d, Ynoir Another Souvenir GmbH, Stuttgart/ Germany, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de

A new addition to the combined brand portfolio of Fashion Factory and Panorama Europe: Mexican boots by Liberty Black.

Fashion Factory

by Mark Grütters/ Panorama Europe Newcomer from Mexico

Colorful Trade Double Investment The address remains the same (almost). The new showroom of Colorful Trade, a renowned fashion agency, is also located on the Lodenfrey premises. The third floor of ‘House C’ offers almost twice as much space than was available before the move within the complex. The owners of Colorful Trade - namely Jörg Korfhage, Tanja Oidtmann, and Boris Korlatzki - were in dire need of more space. “Now we can present our brands in the way we always wanted to”, says Jörg Korfhage. In addition to the new showroom, the trio decided to make a second investment: a self-governed Catwalk Junkie store in Mannheim. 30 percent of the shop’s stock is supplied by external brands. Jörg Korfhage: “We learn from the customers in the store on a daily basis and are thrilled by how much feedback we can utilise for our agency business. In the future we will certainly test certain collections in the store before we add them to our wholesale portfolio. Knowing how consumers react to a collection before recommending it to retailers can be worth its weight in gold.”

Labels: Anonyme Designers, Catwalk Junkie, Freds Bruder, Liu Jo, My F Fausta Santi, Koll3kt, Kultivate Colorful Trade, Munich/Germany, colors@colorfultrade.de, www.colorfultrade.de

Twice as large: the new Colorful Trade showroom is also located on the Lodenfrey premises.

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Liberty Black, a Mexican boot manufacturer, has been family-owned since 1978. The traditional company offers hand-crafted shoes in many different variants at the highest quality levels in line with stringent social standards.

The boots have had large fan bases in Mexico, the US, Canada, and Japan for many years.

From this year onwards, Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters and Panorama Europe have been tasked with establishing the brand in Germany and Austria by utilising their holistic sustainable concept consisting of sales, marketing, public relations, distribution, and service. All shoes are welted and made of naturally tanned or brushed leather. They are lined with soft smooth leather and are equipped with rubber or leather soles. “The image of Mexican boots has been ‘dusty’ for quite some time, but the boots are making a comeback as an integral element of the Bohemian and Coachella styles. Liberty Black has its finger on the pulse of fashion. This means that we have added a brand to our portfolio that fits the look of Schott NYC, especially in terms of the cross-dressing trend”, says Mark Grütters, the managing director of Fashion Factory. The collection on offer consists of approximately 50 models for women. The product range includes Uncle Boots, Medium Highs, Biker Boots, and Cowboy Boots. The retail prices range from 249 to 399 Euros.

Labels: Espadrij l’originale, Grundens, Liberty Black, Menil, Paraboots, Penfield, Portuguese Flannel, Rivieras, Schott NYC Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/ Germany, mail@panorama-europe.eu, www.panorama-europe.eu

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Agentur Stefan Wittmann Four New Additions

Premium Brand Group Fashion and Interior Erika Palese’s Premium Brand Group specialises in established, high-quality brands and manufacturing labels in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. A new addition to her portfolio is Nobis of Canada, a collection whose high-performance materials and corresponding production techniques ensure that the outerwear defies icy temperatures while radiating an urban-fashionable style. Another newcomer is Woods, a label that is part of the same stable as Nobis. Woods is a small heritage outdoor collection in an authentic pioneer style.

Its modern cuts are aimed at a younger clientele.

Begg & Co is one of the long-standing partners of the fashion agency. It stands for high-quality, woven cashmere and angora scarves from Scotland. Moorbrook Textiles Limited, a company steeped in tradition, was founded in 1866. “Utilising old looms, this business manufactures the best scarves one could possibly imagine”, Palese says. From January onwards, the brand will showcase its own interior collection at the Maison Objet in Paris. “This is also the reason why I added Les Ottomans of Italy, another interior collection, to my portfolio. It offers stunningly beautiful pillows in opulent colours.

The items are manufactured in Istanbul”, Palese explains. She represents Les Ottomans in Germany and Austria. In addition to her duties at Premium Brand Group, Erika Palese is the distributor of Vilebrequin in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. She also manages a Vilebrequin store on the island of Sylt.

Labels: Begg & Co, Derek Rose, Eklé, Les Ottomans, Nobis, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear, Vilebrequin, Woods, Zaza de Brito Premium Brand Group, Munich/Germany, office@premiumbrandsgroup. de, www.premiumbrandsgroup.de

Agentur Wittmann, a fashion agency based in Düsseldorf, has added four new brands to its portfolio. Uniform Denim, a brand that hails from Italy, specialises in jeans for men. The brand Della Famiglia, on the other hand, focuses on high-quality knitwear for women made of wool and cashmere blends. In addition, it offers blouses, hats, scarves, pillows, and cuddly blankets. For both brands, Agentur Wittmann acts as the sales representative for North, Central, and West Germany. From this season onwards, Stefan Wittmann is also the European general agent for the distribution of Chill California, a GOTS certified women’s t-shirt collection. The label offers a selection of colourful t-shirts with new witty motifs every two months. In North Rhine-Westphalia, Hesse, Rhineland-Palatinate, and Saarland, Agentur Wittmann is now the representative of C.P. Twentynine, a knitwear collection. In addition to the brands listed below, the agency is the commercial agent of Canadian Classics, Gardenia Copenhagen, and Shoe Biz in Hesse, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland, and North Rhine-Westphalia. Furthermore, Agentur Wittmann represents Daniele Fiesoli in the postal codes 0 through 5 and the Scandinavian label Rosamunde in North Rhine-Westphalia.

Labels: Chill California, Daily’s Nothing Better, Daniele Fiesoli Shirts, I Love My Moment, La Fée Marabouée, Litchi, Moment

by Moment, P448, Project Foce, Silvian Heach, Ten117, Trevor’s Choice Agentur Stefan Wittmann, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.58589690, stefan.wittmann@agentur-wittmann.de, www.agentur-wittmann.de

Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode Cuddly Knitwear

The Munich-based agency specialises in jackets and knitwear.

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This Munich-based agency focuses on product specialists. “Once again, we achieved sensational sales figures with IQ+Berlin this winter”, says Martin Steckel. He still believes that the parka is strong, even though it will be complemented by other jackets in the upcoming season. “The bomber jacket is gathering momentum.” The new website was launched in October. It not only offers news, but also an ample amount of agency-related archive material. Brown Allan, a new addition from New York, is perfectly in line with the specialisation strategy. “This label underlines our knitwear and shirt competence - a perfect match for our portfolio”, Steckel adds.

The collection consists of 40 to 50 items for women and men. The range is characterised by stylish knitwear in casual fits with an urban look. Sweaters, jogging pants, and long jackets - all items are made of the cuddly material. Brown Allan was founded in 1883 as a yarn spinning mill. Today, the company processes luxurious natural fibres.

Labels: Anima Pop, Bloom, Brown Allan, FFC, IQ+Berlin Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de

A TRIP IN A BAG.

WWW.04651-SYLT.DE

Showroom Munich Heritage Agents, www.heritage-agents.com

Showroom Milan Spazio Gentili, www.spaziogentili.it

Showroom New York M5 Showroom, www.m5showroom.com

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Good News Agency New Structure for Bomboogie

Aco Modeagentur Deutschland Product & Lifestyle The Düsseldorf-based agency continues to expand its two new divisions without neglecting its portfolio. One of the newcomers is Plein Sport. “Activewear by Philip Plein surprises with a special feature: no studs, bling, or skulls”, says Aco Germany’s Michael Schulz.

“This is activewear for the typical Philip Plein customer, who wants to wear a special style during sport: technical and athletic.” The average purchase price is 110 Euros. Alessandra Chamonix offers unconventional cotton parkas in military style with high-quality fur appliqués.

The retail prices range from 350 to 500 Euros.

The collection is listed at Lodenfrey, 14oz, and Seefelder Kempten. MinoRonzoni 1953 specialises in belts and accessories in creative vintage styles, complemented by leather jackets for men and women. Heart of Ace, a young Italian label, focuses on hand-crafted scarves and shawls from Nepal. The elaborate prints on cashmere, silk, and soft modal impress with colourfulness and softness.

Aco Germany is also strengthening its Concept: Product segment. “Following the success of our blouses, we have expanded the product range by adding expressive coats in terms of styling and quality - with an input calculation of 3.0”, Schulz explains. “We now also deliver all products earlier.” Let’s not forget the addition of Due Braghe, a collection of men’s chinos from the 40weft stable, and Knitted Love, a range of hand-crafted knitwear made of organic alpaca, cashmere, and merino wool.

Labels: Alessandra Chamonix, Due Braghe, Dsquared Underwear, Concept: Product, Ebony&Ivory, Fracomina, Fusalp, Heart of Ace, Hydrogen, Iceberg, Iceplay, Just Cavalli, Lab Pal Zileri, Marciano Los Angeles, MinoRonzoni 1953, Moschino Underwear, Ora Cashmere, Quantum Courage, Parosh, Pinko, Pinko Jean, Plein Sport, Pleinsud Jeanius, Purotatto, Seventy, Stefano Mortari, Tara Jarmon, Versace Collection, Versace Underwear, White Sand Aco Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@acomode.de, www.acomode.de

Germany’s Aco Modeagentur focuses on product and lifestyle.

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Bomboogie is a regular at Good News Agency.

For the new season, the general agency Good News Agency of Munich has appointed two new German sales agencies for Bomboogie. The retailers in the northern federal states are now in the capable hands of Hamburg-based Agentur Stefan Mau. The area of North Rhine-Westphalia is covered by Torsten Müller’s Room Nine Agency from its headquarters in Düsseldorf. Müller also represents brands like C.P. Company, Kilt Heritage, Flip Flop Original, and Rainfest. A new addition to the portfolio of Günter Passek’s Good News Agency is the Italian menswear collection by Karl Mommoo of Bologna. The Italians offer an innovative and contemporary look for the modern gentleman. In addition to shirts, trousers, and knitwear, the complete collection mainly focuses on waistcoats, blazers, and coats. Virna Dro, an Italian womenswear label, is entering its second season. The casual dresses, tops, skirts, and trousers are made in Italy and convince with perfect processing, material quality, and fits.

Labels: *43*11, Bomboogie, European Culture, Karl Mommoo, Laboratori Italiana, Paul Miranda, Quintessence, Virna Dro Good News Agency, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89. 3517546, g.passek@goodnewsagency.de, www.goodnewsagency.de

Agentur Ventrella There’s Something in the Bush After eleven years in the existing premises, Michele Ventrella is infected by expansion fever.

Both in Munich and Düsseldorf, the agency will relocate to new premises after the autumn/ winter order round. In both cases, it almost doubles its space. “We owe it to our collections and customers to present products generously.” However, the agency needs to manage the latest order round before it starts packing moving boxes. There is a lot of evolution to handle within the respective collections.

Michele Ventrella, who is known for injecting his own ideas, contributed to some of his label’s design ideas. An excellent example is Nine in the Morning, which lends the line a clean finish.

“This whole vintage business is definitively over.

Customers want tidy, clean styles.” In the case of Nove, Michele Ventrella opened his private archive and provided ample input, which resulted in, for example, parkas with bomber sleeves.

Meanwhile, Avant Toi is busy expanding its home segment. It recently presented a collection that was created together with interior decorators and architects. The result: cashmere pillows and blankets.

Labels: 813, 820, Amuse, Avant Toi, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, Giovi, Guglielminotti, Leather Crown, Lafré, Le Sarte Pettegole, NDV Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Su, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Agentur Ventrella, Düsseldorf/Munich/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de

A lot of evolution within the collections of Agentur Ventrella.

Pictured: Avant Toi.

Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof

Meike Lohmann

Fashion designers / Talbot Runhof

Visual artist / Kauft mehr Kunst

Dirk Hoberg

Markus Meindl

Entrepreneur / Meindl Fashion

Two-star chef / Ophelia restaurant Constance

Lay your trust in the world‘s finest white T-shirt. Find out more online or shop at Andreas Murkudis/Berlin, Braun/Hamburg, Schnitzler/Münster, Wirschke/Düsseldorf, Engelhorn/Mannheim, Lodenfrey/München, Stereo Muc/München, Helmut Eder/Kitzbühel, Jelmoli/Zürich, Phänomen/Luzern, The Store/Milano, etc. www.meystory.com

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Premium, Seek, Bright

Outdoor

Three international fashion trade shows with a joint appearance - the trade fairs Premium, Seek, and Bright are dedicated to the great trend topic ‘Outdoor’.

Outdoor is the inspiration and heritage of many collections that are showcased at the Premium, Seek, and Bright. (Deejo: Bright, Ecoalf: Seek, Luis Trenker: Premium)

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Boris Kralj (Anita Tillmann), Exhibitors

Sports and functionality go fashion… The three Berlin-based exhibition platforms Premium, Seek, and Bright - have decided to focus on one of the most significant trends this January: the outdoor segment. “The new terms that accompany this trend verbally are ‘Outdoorsy’ and ‘Glamping’”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing partner of Premium Group.

“The ‘Healthy Living’ lifestyle and the desire to engage in outdoor activities like hiking, trekking, camping, and cycling are on the rise. Developments in the fields of smart textiles and sustainable fashion are merging with design. This creates a certain market dynamic and innovative products.

The latter are both functional and stylish, thereby becoming relevant in the context of fashion.” Thus, outdoor fashion is shaping a new urban lifestyle that is inspired by typical outdoor activities such as hiking and skiing, fishing, hunting, canoeing, and camping. The robust and functional clothing combines high-tech materials with modern silhouettes and high aesthetic standards. The fashion of this autumn and winter is accordingly defined by hiking boots, multifunctional backpacks, fleece jackets, and high-performance parkas.

While the Premium trade show interprets this trend in a cleaner, subtler, and more figure-accentuating manner, the brands exhibiting at the Seek trade fair implement the outdoor style in a cool, Scandinavia-inspired style or in a robust workwear style.

On the other hand, many collections on show at the Bright trade show are based on the original function of materials in combination with state-of-the-art design.

“The outdoor trend creates new revenue potential for the retail industry”, Anita Tillmann explains. “The challenge is to emotionalise the subject, to position it in the right fashion context, and to present it accordingly in the stores.”

Exhibitors at the Premium trade show include the likes of G-Lab, Blauer USA, Meindl Authentic Luxury, Parajumpers, and Handstich. The Seek trade fair welcomes brands such as Dickies, Eastpak, Alpha Industries, Levi’s, and Puma Select, while the Bright event showcases the likes of Blast, Converse, DC Shoes, Etnies, and Mazine.

The three Berlin-based trade shows - as well as the Show & Order, the Premium Order Munich, and the conference platform #Fashiontech - form the Premium Group, which is continuously strengthening its leading market position. www.premiumexhibitions.com

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Anita Tillmann, the managing partner of Premium Exhibitions, applies one of the most significant trends to three trade show platforms in Berlin.

“The outdoor trend creates new revenue potential for the retail industry.” Anita Tillmann

antonellifirenze.com

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ispo Knowing What the Customer Thinks The ispo continues to expand its digital competence. The latest service offered by the ispo Community focuses on consumer insights. To this end, the trade show has established a cooperation with Innolytics GmbH. The company specialises in predictive market research and the development of digital community platforms. In the future, users of the platform can be utilised as a trend barometer for the industry via regular surveys. With these consumer insights, trends can be identified much faster than by classic market research methods. “Our ultimate goal is to become the leading neutral platform for the

The Gallery in Düsseldorf: shorter duration - longer opening hours.

development and market introduction of new products and services in the sports sector”, says Tobias Gröber, the head of ispo Group. The first project has already been completed.

Within the framework of market research, the platform quizzed its users regarding the requirements for travel and outdoor equipment. As part of the ispo Open Innovation project, consumer experts started testing and evaluating innovations launched by manufacturers from the sports industry as early as 2013. They apply their ideas to the development of new products and thereby assist companies in successfully establishing innovations in the market. The platform can also draw from the worldwide network of Messe München, a trade show group that organises approximately 40 specialised events focused on capital goods, consumer goods, and new technologies. 5th to 8th of February, www.ispo.com

Gallery Flexible Opening Hours Service and customer orientation are the guiding principles of the Gallery trade show in Düsseldorf. The event has been - as was previously announced - shortened to three days. In addition, the opening hours have now also been adapted to the needs of the customers. The

event will remain open longer on two days: from 10am to 8pm on Saturday and from 10am to 7pm on Sunday. The opening hours on Monday remain unchanged: 10am to 6pm. “In terms of the Gallery event, we strive to remain in touch with the latest trends. That’s why we would like to afford retailers a possibility to order after the shops shut”, says Ulrike Köhler, the project director of the Gallery. The proven showroom concept remains in place. Premium fashion agencies such as Klauser, Celine Klauser, D-tails, Agentur Heiniger, and Die Hinterhofagentur have the option to arrange appointments three days before and three days after the official event. In addition to the Gallery’s main departments Gallery Evening & Occasion and Green@Gallery, the event has decided to establish a new segment for “fast fashion” in the premises of the “Altes Kesselhaus”. Approximately 750 brands have announced their participation in the January event. The list includes the likes of Wool & Co, Herrlicher, Barbed, Garrett, Armedangels, Lucky de Luca, Hugenberg, Alpha Studio, and 0039 Italy Men. The list of avant-garde labels includes names such as Elemente Clemente, Rundholz, Ümit Ünal, Ania Schierholt, Azizi, and Swiss Label. 28th to 30th of January 2017, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

Digitalisation as a competitive advantage: ispo connects companies and customers.

Supreme Women & Men

New Impulses from Italy More than 480 labels will showcase their respective collections at the Supreme Women&Men fashion show in Düsseldorf. Aline Schade, an executive board member, says: “We always work hard to offer our visitors an ever-expanding portfolio of collections. However, the agencies were, are, and always will be a strong source for impulses, especially as they reinvent themselves constantly - just like the modern specialised retail industry in itself.” The Supreme Group’s cooperation with the Italian correspondent Andrea Jericho (International Fashion Consulting) is particularly successful. Thus, the portfolio of high-quality Italian labels is complemented by brands such as L’Aura, La Couverture, Origami Knitwear, Oblique Creations, and Scrambled Ego. “These labels show that we have succeeded in bringing Italian collections that are usually only presented on the catwalks of Milan and Paris to Düsseldorf. At the Supreme Women&Men, the Italians are especially appreciative of the atmosphere in ‘B1 Haus’ and relish the opportunity to establish contact with the agencies. They also value gathering feedback from the retail industry”, Andrea Jericho explains. In additions, buyers can look forward to many new

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exhibitors in the coming season. The list includes brands such as America&Beyond, B-Low The Belt, Caterina Mariani, C-Studio, Divine, Pashina, Gemmi, gert’s Oslo, Girlsbestfriend, Heavience, Highfield, Hinterveld, J. Gillie, Jilani, Lajoia, L’Argentina - la gauchita, Lotusse, Luilu Jewelry, Sophie, Too Hot To Hide, Van Santen & Van Santen, and many more. Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf: 28th to 31st of January 2017, Supreme Women&Men Munich: 11th to 14th of February 2017, www.munichfashioncompany.com

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Munich Fabric Start Strategic Reorientation

The GDS trade show attaches great importance to trend information.

GDS Inspiration and Impulses From the 7th to the 9th of February (Tuesday to Thursday), the GDS trade show in Düsseldorf presents footwear and accessories for the current autumn/winter 2017/2018 season. For the benefit of visitors, the structure is clearly defined. The event is divided into three lifestyle worlds: Highstreet, Studio, and Pop-Up. Furthermore, the GDS trend programme and numerous events provide additional inspiration and impulses. For example, the “GDS 365 - Digital Marketplace”, a joint project developed with the Berlin-based company “We Want Shoes”, provides a B2B e-commerce platform for shoes and accessories. The platform allows GDS exhibitors to showcase their collections all year round on www.wewantshoes.com. “Social Media Consulting” is an information tool that allows interested visitors to learn about topics such as influencer marketing, blogger relations, and social media management. 7th to 9th of February 2017, www.gds-online.com

In the future, the Show & Order will focus even more on providing a pleasant atmosphere. The trade show offers a sensual and feminine selection of fashion and accessories.

Show & Order Stories and Emotions The upcoming Show & Order trade fair’s concept is based on a clearly feminine approach. The portfolio mainly consists of womenswear and accessories in the mid-price range; it is complemented by shoe collections and interior items. The list of exhibitors includes household names such as Anni Carlsoon, Pernille Corydon, Komono, Delan, Feret Parfumeur, Mint & Rose, Stella Achenbach, and Westwing.

The declared aim of the Show & Order is to offer the retail industry stories and emotions on a business platform with a personal atmosphere. The numerous lounge areas are particularly inviting. Thus, the Show & Order complements the Premium Group, of which it is part of since last October. The Premium Group also organises the trade shows Premium, Seek, and Bright, as well as the conference format #Fashiontech and the sales platform Premium Order Munich.

The founder of Show & Order, Verena Malta, remains the face of the trade fair. The event will also remain faithful to its location: Berlin’s “Kraftwerk” in the city’s “Köpenicker Strasse”. 17th to 19th of January 2017, www.showandorder.com

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The “Keyhouse” format will be - in the truest sense of the word - a key factor in the future orientation of the Munich Fabric Start trade show. The newly allocated “Hall 5” offers an innovation and creative centre for smart textiles, future fabrics, and technology with a high degree of integration into textile products and high fashion. The motto “Fashion Goes Technology” reflects the broad and individual portfolio of suppliers destined to shape the future of the industry that is increasingly concerned with sustainable, future-oriented textiles and processes. “The fact that the time visitors spend at our trade show is increasing significantly is very pleasing. This not only proves the competence of our suppliers and the carefully compiled portfolio for the various segments, but also the dynamic development of our trade fair format and the acceptance of new areas. Last but not least, it also confirms that we have chosen the right scheduling for the event”, says Wolfgang Klinder, the managing director of Munich Fabric Start.

As one of the world’s largest trade shows for fabrics and additionals, the Munich Fabric Start, which spreads out over a total area of 42,500 square metres, presents more than 1,000 exhibitors in Munich’s MOC and the adjacent Zenith Hall. 31st of January to 2nd of February 2017, www.munichfabricstart.com

The Panorama trade show focuses on “Urban Lifestyle”.

Panorama Denim and Urbanwear At the upcoming autumn/winter 2017/2018 edition, the Nova Concept of the Panorama trade will present a more stringent brand portfolio with a focus on denim and urbanwear. Brands such as Lee, Wrangler, Guess, Fornarina, Solid, Tigha, and Marciano have decided to showcase their respective collections at the Panorama for the first time alongside existing exhibitors such as Bench, Ben Sherman, CG-Club of Gents, Cinque, and Mavi. The list of brands is complemented by a selection of lifestyle products such as technical gadgets. The Nova Concept takes up 6,000 square metres in hall 9, which has its own entrance and shuttle service. “The new Nova Concept brand portfolio, which is more homogenous in terms of style, helps us to present and communicate the vision we are pursuing in this particular area more efficiently”, says Jörg Wichmann, the CEO of Panorama Berlin. “The new focus on ‘Cool Contemporaries’, in combination with carefully selected lifestyle products, allows us to address the ‘Urban Lifestyle’ topic. The aim of the Nova Concept is to inspire retailers and to highlight opportunities that allow them to reinvent themselves, to excite their customers, and to re-establish a direct dialogue with consumers.”

17th to 19th of January 2017, www.panorama-berlin.com

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Minga Berlin Colourful & Fair

Minga Berlin has been designing and manufacturing high-quality, colourful unisex socks made of organic cotton since 2010. The label, which was initially founded in Munich, focuses on tradition and quality. Today, the corporate headquarters are located in Berlin.

Here, Betty Brown, the managing director, draws inspiration from the city’s freedom, street styles, and individuality. Every three months, the label supplies footwear enthusiasts with new designs in fresh colours: checked, striped, colourful, uni-coloured, and rough hand-knitted Granny socks in beautiful gift boxes. In addition, Minga Berlin also offers black socks for waiters and businesswomen in practical 6-packs. The cotton for the socks is sourced in Turkey and is also processed there. All parties involved in the manufacturing process (cotton farmers, dye works, warehousing, logistics, etc.) are certified according to the strict ecological, economic, and social criteria of GOTS. Alongside limited editions, the label also offers a string of NOS products and - as a new addition this year - athletic socks. The purchase prices range from 4.80 to 6.40 Euros, while the retail prices range from 12 to 16 Euros. This translates into a calculation factor of 2.5. The socks are available in the sizes S (35-38), M (39-42), and L (43-46).

Minga Berlin is stocked by approximately 300 retailers worldwide, such as Avocadostore, Glore, Dear Goods, Loveco, Supermarche, and Sanikai.

Minga Berlin Apparel GmbH & Co. KG, Annabel Kleyweg, Berlin/Germany, T. 0049.30120741010, partner@mingaberlin.com, www.mingaberlin.com

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Nicole Korneli Fun Icon

The jewellery created by Nicole Korneli symbolises the heart, mindset, and personality of its wearer. Thus, her ultimate goal is to supply her customers with truly timeless pieces, which are - exclusively - produced in Munich by hand. The collection currently consists of rings, necklaces, and pendants in various sizes made of 925 silver, ruthenium-plated 925 silver, and 925 silver plated with 14 carat yellow or rose gold. The many small, lovingly elaborated details are the real highlight of her little skulls. The model with Mickey Mouse ears makes you smile while the model with the baseball cap lets the hearts of Hip-hop fans skip a beat. Naturally, punk enthusiasts love the version with the skull sporting a Mohawk. Every pendant or ring is available in three sizes: large and bold, medium-sized, and small and delicate. The retail prices for mini versions of the jewellery made of plain silver start at as little as 110 Euros (purchase price: 41 Euros). “For me, jewellery is an opportunity to create something sustainable”, the designer explains. “Over the years, a piece of jewellery tells a story. It is passed down from generation to generation and - in the process - might transform into something new. This makes every piece unique in its very own way.”

Nicole Korneli, Munich/Germany, T. 0049.162.2997961, letters@nicolekorneli.com, www.nicolekorneli.com

Asket Minimalism & Innovation

Asket, a label created by August Bard Bringéus and Jakob Dworsky, focuses on reduced highest-quality basics with a perfect fit. Instead of launching several seasonal collections per year, Asket merely offers one permanent one. The shirts are manufactured in a production facility that also serves renowned brands such as Prada and Hermès. The t-shirts, Oxford shirts, Pique polos, and merino or cashmere sweaters come in an innovative size pattern that doesn’t merely include the usual five sizes ranging from XS to XL, but also the three length variants “long”, “regular”, and “short”. “Traditional fashion labels need to, for cost reasons - serve as many customers as possible in as few sizes as possible.

We were always frustrated when we had to make compromises during the buying process. Jakob, for instance, is 190cm tall and very slim. In terms of standard sizes, there is no size that would fit him - he’s always stuck somewhere between Medium and Large.

Medium is waisted enough, but too short.

Large is long enough, but too wide. That’s why we offer our shirts in three lengths; that allows us to supply a perfect fit for as many people as possible”, August Bard Bringéus explains. The retail prices range from 30 Euros for a t-shirt to 195 Euros for a sweater made of Mongolian cashmere wool. The label currently has no sales representative for the German-speaking market.

Asket, August Bard Bringéus, Stockholm/ Sweden, T. 0046.736871316, jakob@asket.com, www.asket.com

THE ORIGINAL FLIGHT JACKET.

SEEK Berlin, 17. - 19.01.17, Booth C 43

Schott NYC - born in 1913 performes the Iconic Bomber MA-1 since 1952.

www.schott.eu

Showroom FASHION FACTORY, Fichtenstr. 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, ad@ffbymg.com, +49(0)211-31129901

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Loqi Art to Go

In 2012, Belinda Kless, an Australian entrepreneur, founded the bag label Loqi with the aim of making excellent design and good style affordable for everyone. The name Loqi symbolises the union of East and West; it is a fusion of the Latin word for “place” and the Chinese term for “vital energy”. The label, which draws inspiration from individual and cultural diversity, offers bags, backpacks, zip-cases, and suitcases in many cheerful colours and witty designs.

The purchase prices range from 3.60 to 10.50 Euros, while the retail prices range from 9.95 to 29.95 Euros. The label launches two collections per year, each consisting of approximately 60 pieces. The additional Loqi Museum Collection consists of approximately 25 motifs of world-renowned works by well-known artists such as Gerhard Richter, Mondrian, Magritte, and Van Gogh.

The so-called Artist Collection utilises motifs

by Sagmeister & Walsh, Shinpei Naito, Alex Trochut, and Erik Kessels. Both collections are sold in international museums and retail stores. Significant key accounts are household names such as Colette, Selfridges, Takashimaya, KaDeWe Group, The British Museum, Tate, Rijksmuseum, and Guggenheim. The label is currently distributed in more than 50 countries. It showcases its products at trade shows such as Maison & Objet Paris and Ambiente Frankfurt.

Loqi GmbH, Jan Erdweg, Saint Helena/USA, T 001.619.5177979, hello@loqi.com, www.loqi.com

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Anker für Nepal Security and Solidarity

The charity project “Anker für Nepal” (Anchor for Nepal) is a call for donations in cooperation with Ralf Bauer, a German actor.

The organisation manages the distribution of unisex bracelets by Mirela D. Stanoiu and her team at Hannover-based Donna Group.

For more than 20 years, Ralf Bauer has been working on establishing a network in Nepal.

This enabled him to realise aid projects with a group of dedicated monks following the earthquake of April 2015. In addition to the construction of a new school in Kathmandu, the network also managed to restore the basic food supply for the cut-off village of Marming with 165 households within a short period of time. The project that is currently closest to Bauer’s heart is the restoration of 22 totally decrepit buildings in Himanchal-Kamro that are inhabited by Tibetan refugees. All donations are invested directly in scheduled projects. Travel expenses for trips to Nepal, as well as the entire administration and on-site support, are covered by the volunteers. Stores that sell the bracelets for 10 Euros are, among others, Fischer, Moosbrugger, Burresi, Apropos, Konen, Immi Fashion Lounge, Modewerk Conceptstore, Laura Tassias Fashion Boutique, Birgit Engel, Gschwantler, Rosenthal Trading, Donna, Zoe, Emma, and Shoehouse, as well as all 25 Hours hotels.

Anker für Nepal, Donna GmbH, Hannover/ Germany, T 0049.511.16992860, ankerfuernepal@donna.de, www.facebook.com/AnkerfuerNepal

Fortezza Like a Fortress

Anyone who has ever visited the Pitti Immagine Uomo will immediately recognise the logo of Fortezza, a Dutch men’s jacket label. The logo is based on the floor plan of Fortezza di Basso, the venue that plays host to the most influential men’s fashion fair every six months. However, this is not the only reference to Italy. The commercial collection is quite clearly dominated by Italian style. The core retail prices of Fortezza’s clearly structured collection range from 299 to 399 Euros. Seasonally changing and bestseller jackets sport Italian names, while the brand structure itself is straightforward and immediately understandable. Florence and its rich cultural heritage are the inspirational source for the design team, which is reflected in the fact that the three colours of the Italian flag are represented in the logo. The brand launches two collections per year with a calculation factor that oscillates between 2.7 and 2.8. After enjoying commercial success in northern and southern Europe, the Netherlands-based parent company has set its sights on conquering the German market with the support of the fashion agency Ben And. Fortezza, Lijnden/The Netherlands, T 0031.20.4877777, anthonyc@fortezza-outerwear.com, www.fortezza-outerwear.com

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N_8 Insider Tip for Tailoring

The label name, pronounced “Enne Otto” (the Italian way of spelling “Number 8”), stands for an innovative total look for women, dedicated to the search for quality in terms of fabrics and Italian craftsmanship.

“N_8 is part of a committed circle of artful tailors and is one of the little-known fashion houses that bases its business on the tradition and experience of the Italian textile and manufacturing heritage”, says Suzana Ruscic, who is responsible for the brand’s distribution in Germany and Austria via Meninas. “Stefano Grigoli, the designer, bases his collections on exclusive fabrics, clear cuts, harmonious proportions, and masterful fits; these factors lend his feminine designs a refined elegance.” One of the main focal points in this respect is the shoulder section of jackets and coats. The collection is complemented by blouses, dresses, skirts, and knitwear. The brand launches two collections per year, which consist of approximately 80 items each. The purchase prices for wool coats range from 400 to 600 Euros, while knitwear costs between 150 and 300 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7.

N_8 is currently still an insider tip. The brand has 30 points of sale in Italy, 20 in Europe, and 25 worldwide. In Germany, N_8 is listed at Modenhaus Ehlers in Wyk on Föhr, as well as at Marco Hops Hamburg, Terner Berlin and Hannover, Bederke Munich, and Diehl Frankfurt.

N_8, Rosy Contrary, Milan/Italy, T 0039.339.2474000, rosy@ottosrl.it, www.n8milano.it

Moose Knuckels Elk Test

Moose Knuckles was first introduced to the market in 2007 and is - to this day - highly credible and authentic. The brand, which hails from Montreal, offers a premium jacket collection and has now set its sights on Europe. It is already performing admirably in North America. Renowned retail partners, celebrities and starlets, a cheeky advertising campaign, and unmistakable signature styles have contributed to Moose Knuckles’ meteoric rise. Retail prices ranging from 799 to 1,200 Euros position the jackets and parkas for women and men in the premium segment. The collection is divided into a core line and a fashion line. While the core line is characterised by technical materials and details, the fashion line mostly utilises certified fur that is sourced from the brand’s home country Canada. Parts of the production process still take place in Winnipeg, where the family of the founders has been producing outerwear since 1921. In Europe, the Moose Knuckles collection is offered to multi-brand retailers with a calculation factor of 2.7. Four collections per year ensure that the right products find their way into the stores at the right time: lightweight down and bomber models for the transitional periods and models that protect their wearers from ice cold temperatures later in the season. The brand hopes to persuade retail partners with intelligent delivery rhythms.

The German market is covered by the Ben And fashion agency, while the representative for Austria is room with a view. The list of international reference customers includes household names such as Luisa Via Roma, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Harrods.

Moose Knuckles, Montreal/Canada, T 001.844.9966673, cristiano@mooseknucklescanada.com, www.mooseknucklescanada.com

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Le Cord Stylish Cables

Phone covers are the creative playground for countless designers. As a result, we can now choose from an almost unmanageable range of materials and shapes. Up until now, this choice wasn’t available in terms of cables. In this field, we are confronted with a uniform selection of white items for Mac products. Le Cord, a project launched in Stockholm in 2013, has committed itself to diversity in its most beautiful form. Materials such as textiles, metal, leather, and wood form the base for the charging cables for daily companions such as iPhones, iPads, and the like. Every year, the label launches two collections of its textile-covered cables.

The colour selection is almost limitless: poppy pink, simple grey, striped, or plain.

The various models can be combined with all fashion styles. Le Cord’s products are certified and licensed by Apple Inc.; they are produced from original components supplied by the California-based conglomerate.

This guarantees full functionality. The prices range from 35 to 60 Euros. The creative cables have won over household names such as Harrods, Colette, Merci, and The Conran Store. In Germany, Le Cord is listed at the likes of Anita Hass, August Pfüller, Stierblut, and L&T. Le Cord, Stockholm/Sweden, T 0046.70.9646594, sales@lecord.se, www.lecord.se

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T-Jacket Casual Style

The underlying concept of T-Jacket is based on the idea of combining traditional tailoring with contemporary design in order to create a casual jacket collection for women and men. The brand was launched by Claudio Tonello in time for the spring/summer 2014 season. 13 years earlier, Claudio Tonello had started the eponymous Tonello collection.

T-Jacket doesn’t interpret the term “casual” as permission for foul compromises in terms of design and quality. This approach applies to the brand’s single-breasted and double-breasted jackets, military jackets, and waistcoats, which are available in a variety of colours and cuts. The collection is supplemented with trousers and shirts for autumn/winter, including a selection of dinner and party jackets. The packaging is equally innovative. Upon request, the jackets are delivered in plastic tubes that can be closed with corks and hung up in the store.

This is yet another way to prove how casual and uncomplicated the items are.

T-Jacket offers two collections per year consisting of 20 models made of approximately 40 to 50 materials. The retail prices range from 295 to 350 Euros. T-Jackets is currently in the process of expanding its international distribution network in Europe, the US, and Japan. The brand has appointed Komet und Helden as its representative for the German and Austrian markets.

Tonello, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.54118718, showroom@tonello.net, www.tonello.net, www.t-jacket.it 117 style in progress

Hide & Jack Gallant Sneakers

Hide & Jack offers cool sneakers made in Italy, which, despite their clean look, don’t lack innovation. “The name is inspired by the novella ‘Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde’ by R.L. Stevenson”, says Matthias Schwarte, whose agency represents the Italian label from Treviso in Germany and Austria. Hide & Jack was launched in April 2014 by Alberto Francoleschi and Niccolò Nicoletti. Up until now, the label was only available in Italy. “The welted sneakers are made of full-grain leather. They are characterised by a great feel and sophisticated lasts”, Matthias Schwarte adds. The collection includes high-top and low models. The retail prices for the sneakers, which are available in croc look, in suede, or with braided leather details, range from 189 to 219 Euros. The calculation factor oscillates between 2.7 and 2.8. A special feature is the option to request a shoe box with a personalised labelling.

Corso Italia Spa, 20122 Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.84928473, marketing@ballantyne.it, www.fabiogatto.com

Jet Set Candy Collectable Souvenirs

The Jet Set Candy pendants in the design of classic luggage tags or road signs are the “sweet” dream of every frequent flier. Nicole Parker, a New York resident, came up with the idea of developing a typical souvenir in the form of pendants for bracelets, necklaces, and chokers. Parker, a former creative director at a beauty conglomerate, was inspired by popular tourist destinations across the globe. To this end, she developed objects that resemble typical travel destinations: miniature pendants depicting Toblerone chocolate, espresso cans, the Chrysler Building, camels, skis from Aspen, and Santa Monica surfboards. All items trigger a desire for travelling… We dare you not to start collecting! The purchase prices of the high-quality jewellery, which is made of Sterling silver or gilded, range from 27 to 79 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.5. Travel-Maniacs can be purchased almost everywhere. The items can be obtained in the label’s own pop-up store, at Bloomingdales, at Takashima, at Liberty, at Melissa Odabash of London, and at Simon’s of Canada.

The Jet Set Kid LLC, New York City/USA, T 001.212.796.692, info@jetsetcandy.com, www.jetsetcandy.com

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Fil Noir Shirt Remains Shirt

Finest fabrics made in Europe and pure craftsmanship - the women’s shirts by Fil Noir are in line with the brand’s DNA and unconditional quality standards. It follows in the footsteps of the men’s collection. What started as a limited edition of 3,000 items in autumn/winter 2016, was soon sold out after attracting top retailers such as Classico, Tatem, Bailly Diehl, Chez Toi Japan, and Grethen House USA. For autumn/winter 2017, Swiss Hest GmbH, which obtained the license for the shirts of the traditional Italian company in 2012, created the third women’s collection. It’s characterised by small, feminine details such as delicate piping on the collar and breast pocket or a small heart motif at the end of the button tape.

Nevertheless, the look of the women’s shirt remains largely masculine. In addition to figure-hugging models, the collection boasts shorter, wide-cut silhouettes with stand-up collars or shirt collars, button-down shirts with a Kent collar, a shirt dress with a shortened button tape and lateral reachin pockets, and a tuxedo shirt. The latter is fashionably reinterpreted with a front pleat section. The colour palette starts with grey shades with a warm fire-red as contrast. For the second delivery date, the palette includes blue shades with brightening elements in rosé and pink. Finally, the third delivery date offers autumn shades, including Bordeaux red, chocolate and caramel, copper red, and cream white. The design of the women’s shirts is always subtle, sometimes with pinstripes, oversized check patterns, or minimal all-over designs, as well as more extravagant tie pattern prints. The distinguishing feature of all shirts is the discreet Fil Noir seam on the left side. At a calculation factor of 2.8, the retail prices range from 99 to 179 Euros. Last but not least, the collection is completed by Finest Cut, a jersey programme made of finest 60 gauge materials. The cut edges don’t fray; the items are also available in sizes 34 to 42.

Swiss Hest GmbH, 78315 Radolfzell/Germany, T 0049.7732.820778, info@swiss-hest.de, www.fil-noir.com 117 style in progress

www.ilbisonte.com

D/A/CH • D-TAILS AGENCY • INFO@D-TAILS.DE

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Eins Berlin Belief, Love, Hope

Three words create the sense of a greater purpose. Cora Schwind, Olaf Tegeler, and Werner Reimers, a Berlin-based trio of entrepreneurs, design limited editions of jewellery under the Eins Berlin label. “Our name is a tribute to the city of Berlin, which unites three currents: creativity, self-realisation as an expression of life, and respect for quality and dignity”, designer Cora Schwind explains. “These three impulses create something truly unique: Eins Berlin.” The collection, which consists of rings, necklaces, bracelets, bangles, and pendants, is divided into individual lines. The range includes roughly 120 elaborately crafted jewellery pieces made of 24K gold-plated and black-matted sterling silver, as well as precious stones that are combined or decorated with horn and bone elements, thereby creating unique jewellery pieces such as bracelets, key chains, and rings. Pendants shine in gold, rose, silver, and matted black.

They are complemented with matching three-coloured necklaces. The retail prices range from 49 to 840 Euros. The luxurious Pure Line includes individual pieces priced between 1,000 and 4,000 Euros. Retailers such as Stereo in Munich, Trüffelschwein and Kaufladen in Berlin, Inselglück in Werder, Nafeda in Cologne, and Richie in Stuttgart have already listed the label. Eins Berlin showcases its collection at Pitti Uomo, Selvedge Run, and Show & Order.

Eins Berlin, Reimers Schwind & Tegeler GbR, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.22164830, hello@einsberlin.com, www.einsberlin.com

Mountain Force A. Sign All Weather, All Seasons

The new A. Sign collection by Swiss premium skiwear specialist Mountain Force can be adjusted to all weather conditions with temperatures ranging from -20 to +20 degrees Celsius without being bulky or restricting freedom of movement. This is made possible by separating insulation and weatherproofing. Patrick Robinson, a designer from the US, bases his creations on the Bauhaus principle: “Form follows Function”. All superfluous elements such as unnecessary seams or adornments, which could impair the performance of the outer fabric, are dispensed with. This also benefits aesthetics. The highly elastic, ultra-light, and breathable material concept combines the exclusive Mountain Force ceramic membrane with fabrics such as Polartec Pro and Alpha, Prima Loft Thermo Plume, and high-quality down by Sustainable Down Source. Traditional seam connections are replaced by innovative ultrasonic welding.

The knitwear and merino ranges utilise a stretchable adhesive technology. In order to facilitate the introduction of the versatile system to retailers, the new A. Sign collection pursues a two-year plan. Mountain Force will update the collection with new items every order round without removing existing products from the product range.

Mountain Force AG, Rotkreuz/Switzerland, T 0041.41.7998020, info@mountainforce.com, www.mountainforce.com

Orobos Newcomer from the US

Orobos is an innovative outerwear collection that utilises the latest technical fabrics and combines them with down. In its American home market, Orobos is listed by no less than 500 retailers, among them Nordstrom and Bloomingdales. Now the brand has decided to move into new export markets such as Canada, Korea, and Japan. In Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, it is striving to establish itself with the assistance of the fashion agency CP Fashion.

“The rapid success in the US is due to the fact that the company has been producing jackets for well-known brands for more than 30 years. This means that it has ample experience in terms of manufacturing”, says Reinhart Oberstein, the managing director of CP Fashion. The name Orobos originates from Greek antiquity and means the “cycle of life”. In this context, the cycle is mainly determined by nature. The Orobos collection for men and women strives to re-interpret its name in a modern manner. The focus is on functionality and state-of-the-art technical developments. Yarns and fabrics are manufactured specially and processed in line with latest methods. The retail prices for men’s down bomber jackets range from 299 to 499 Euros, while a down trench coat costs between 469 and 890 Euros. The latter’s price depends on the material and level of processing detail. The retail prices for women’s jackets range from 199 to 469 Euros.

The calculation factor stands between 2.7 and 2.8. The brand launches one collection per season, but is also willing to produce special styles for customers.

Orobos Ltd, Fort Lee, NY/USA, T 001.201.4820900, rachelle@orobosny.com, www.orobosny.com

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Fine Edge Luxury Knitwear

Fine Edge, a luxury knitwear label from the US, marks its market debut with the launch of its pre-fall collection in January. Fine Edge doesn’t offer basics, but strives to impress with clear fashion statements. The style is consciously trend-oriented, yet nevertheless cool and sophisticated. In terms of look, the collection toys with both volume and silhouettes. For example, the range includes ponchos, knitted coats, cardigans with tassels, and sweaters with voluminous bell sleeves or side slits, as well as cropped styles that are shorter in the front than in the back. In addition, it offers colour accents and zipper details that make each item unique. The dominant colours are black, cream white, grey, and rosé. Fine Edge’s purchase prices range from 140 to 300 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.7. The design is “Made in the US”, while the production is “Made in Italy”.

The brand offers items made of 100 percent cashmere and cashmere blends.

Brama Avenue, Antwerp/Belgium, T 0032.497.101629, raphaelle@bramaavenue.com, www.bramaavenue.com

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Hod Paris Marais Style

This is the story of three friends who founded a trousers label in the fashionable Marais district of Paris. The collection includes denims, slacks, and finest chinos. The different cultural backgrounds of the three founders is reflected in the label’s unusual designs, prints, and fabrics. The compact collection, which is aimed exclusively at women, convinces with its commercial price structure. The purchase prices for trousers and denims range from 30 to 50 Euros.

Following a very good start in France and England, the label has now set its sights on the German-language markets. To this end, Hod Paris has appointed Munich-based Die Hinterhofagentur as its fashion agency.

Design by Hod SAS, Paris/France, T 0033.1.42360209, sales@hodparis.com, www.hodparis.com

So Sisters Emancipation of the Blouse

Peter Kodym, a renowned textile entrepreneur, has a new “baby”. So Sisters is the name of his extraordinary blouse collection, which is designed by various young talents scattered around the globe. The aim is “to implement the spirit of street-fashion as cosmopolitan as possible”. All these influences are formed into a coherent, eclectic whole by an experienced head designer.

Velvet, silk, patches, frills and decorations, Lurex, Jacquard - the creativity level of the collection is truly impressive. Many first movers in the fashion trade decided to order from So Sisters “on the spot”. This shouldn’t come as a surprise. Despite the fact that the collection is produced by a family business from Italy, the price structure cannot deny certain commerciality. The purchase prices start at 35 Euros; the core purchase price stands at 40 Euros. This pricing structure - in combination with a calculation factor between 2.9 and 3.0 - is an argument that seems to convince retailers quickly.

Stahl Fashion Agency, Copenhagen/Denmark, T 0045.27.831654, customerservice@stahlfashion.com, www.stahlfashion.com

068 WANT iT

Wyse London Never Boring

Marielle Wyse, the founder of the cashmere label Wyse London, has always had a passion for cashmere. However, she rarely found items that appealed to her in the collections of established brands. In her eyes, cashmere clothing was always too classical, particular, or expensive. As a consequence, the entrepreneur took matters into her own hands and launched her own label in 2014. Wyse London offers affordable cashmere styles. The purchase prices range from 92 Euros for sweaters to 98 Euros for jogging pants. Given a calculation factor between 2.7 and 2.8, sweaters are priced at 249 Euros in retail. Colourful, eye-catching, and fresh - the collection’s design language instils pure happiness. Lurex yarns, star inlays, and colourful stripes - Marielle Wyse strives to ensure that others ask her customers where they bought the beautiful sweater they’re wearing. This question is asked quite often in Germany, especially since Die Hinterhofagentur, the fashion agency owned

by Julia and Dominik Meuer, was appointed as the brand’s sales representative. Wyse London offers a small stock programme, but no NOS products. The latter would, after all, contradict the founding idea of the label.

Wyse London, London/UK, T 0044.7971.663041, wyse@wyselondon.co.uk, www.wyselondon.co.uk

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Nubikk Casual Every Day

Nubikk, a Netherlands-based shoe brand, is easy-going, comprehensible, and uncomplicated. The collection is characterised by simple designs and high wearing comfort.

The men’s line focuses on sneakers made of different leather variations (with leather embossments, for example) featuring laterally raised, white, or coloured rubber soles. The range is complemented by classic lace-up and Chelsea boots made of smooth leather or suede. The women’s line impresses with, for example, the high-cut, black Dalida lace-up boot, but also utilises witty design elements, such as an eye-shaped brooch or a zoo-themed print, on sneakers. The broad colour palette includes pink, taupe, Bordeaux red, grass green, and olive, as well as various shades of blue. The retail prices of the approximately 100-piece collection range from 149 to 169 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.5. In the Netherlands, Nubikk has roughly 300 points of sale. In the German-speaking markets, the collection is listed at stores such as Breuninger, Bartu, Schwarzmarkt, and Globus of Switzerland.

Nubikk BV, Waalwijk/The Netherlands, T 0031.85.5605751, office@nubikk.com, www.nubikk.com

My Sunday Morning Breakfast in Bed

This collection embodies the precious “me time” we enjoy on Sunday mornings. It is almost tailor-made for women like Virginie Guarisco, a Boho girl through and through.

In her home country France, she is known for her label Virginie Castaway. However, she wants My Sunday Morning, her latest project, to grow independently. How can one define the style, you ask? It’s a mixture of French chic and the casualness of America’s West Coast. The focused range of blouses, shirts, and knitwear pays ample attention to details. The unique design language of My Sunday Morning has already convinced renowned retailers in a few European countries, the US, Russia, and Japan. The label’s representative for the German market is Die Hinterhofagentur. The purchase prices: knitwear 50 to 100 Euros, blouses 40 to 60 Euros, sweats 40 to 50 Euros, and shirts 22 to 30 Euros.

My Sunday Morning, Paris/France, T 0033.1.40284713, mysunday-morning@hotmail.com, www.mysunday-morning.fr

A RT D I R E C TO R M A R K U S M A H R E N / P H OTO G R A P H E R M I C H A E L H O F F / FA S H I O N D I R E C TO R A N K E L AC H M U T H / M O D E L JA N S I E G M U N D / B E AU T Y D I R E C TO R A N JA C . PAG E L

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L A B E L

Freedomday Function and Fashion

Freedomday, which was launched in 2014, is a new jacket collection for men and women by Max Moda. To this day, the company, founded 40 years ago by the Russo family, not only produces THREE jackets for renowned fashion brands, but alsoCOAT features its own, private collection.

QUARTER LENGHT What began in Italy with 520 points of sale, developed at a rapid speed - not least because of the knowhow reflected in the products. Europe and Japan were approached in 2015. In 2016, Freedomday expanded to further markets such as Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Russia, TECHNICAL CONTENTS and Korea. In addition to the points of sale in the brand’s home market, there are currently an DESIGN additional 600CLEAN in EuropeAND alone,LINEAR including De Bijenkorf in Amsterdam, Breuninger and Jades in Düsseldorf, Globus andWITH PKZ in STITCHED Switzerland, and IllumWELDED in Copenhagen.

FINISHED UP INSIDES AND TAPES Two collections - Red Label and Black Label - are available for the 2017 Autumn/Winter season.

The Red Label coats, jackets, and parkas are particularly innovative and often colourful, with artistically designed lining and functional features.

Black Label takes up a more reserved and subtle stance and is available for men, women, and children aged four to sixteen. The two fabrics of the Black Label collection - soft-shell and softshell combined with nylon-stretch - are highly technical. The outer fabric boasts thermo-stitching, as is typical for highly functional outerwear. This means the jackets and parkas are suitable for urban areas and ski slopes alike. Colour schemes comprise black, military green, and tones of blue, and even sand colours. The lining is black and white. Both collections feature jackets and waistcoats with or without fur, padded with real down at a weight of 250g. Several jackets boast a down composition of 90/10, a sign of quality and a guarantee for better insulation. In addition, the label also offers lighter down jackets weighing no more than 100g.

In retail, parkas and coats are priced between 299 and 400 Euros with a mark-up of 2.8 to 3.0.

The two agencies responsible for distribution in Germany and in Austria are Kappler of Munich and Baessler of Düsseldorf.

Max Moda srl, Gallariate/Italy, T 0039.0331.076532, info@max-moda.com, www.freedomday.it

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Silk Sisters Well-Known Newcomer

Although Silk Sisters is only approaching its second order season, the driving force behind the brand certainly isn’t a newcomer.

The parent company of Silk Sister, which offers finest blouses and dresses, is Marlino, a Munich-based specialist in qualitative outerwear. In addition, Marlino has great competence in terms of sustainability and high-quality natural materials. The minimalist Silk Sister styles come in flowing fabrics of elastic silk and cotton satin. The collection covers the entire range from casual looks to clothing for festive occasions. Small, elaborate details such as edges in contrast colours, gathers, and oversize cuts - as well as masculine accents such as broad cuffs are some of the highlights within the cleanly cut collection. The all-season basics are manufactured in Turkey and China. The collection consists of approximately 20 styles with retail prices ranging from 129 to 249 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7.

Silk Sisters, ModeIst GmbH, Marion Hoferer, Munich/Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.89.15985591, info@b-kleidung.com, www.b-kleidung.com, www.silk-sisters.com

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072 WANT iT

Lemon Jelly Wanderlust

Lemon Jelly, a Portuguese footwear brand, was founded in 2013. The collection includes 34 cheeky and colourful models for women, as well as nine models for children.

The retail prices range from 69.90 to 139.90 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.6. “In order to transform Lemon Jelly into a global brand, we strive to create a luxury positioning for which we work passionately on a daily basis. We combine state-of-the-art technology with traditional shoe manufacturing processes and pay close attention to details and the quality of our products”, says Ricardo Oliveira, a marketing manager at Lemon Jelly. For example, the brand opened a temporary store on the third floor of the Fenwick department store on London’s Bond Street last autumn. At the same time, German customers were afforded the opportunity to individualise a pair of Chelsea Boots by Lemon Jelly at Görtz in Cologne.

They could choose from 12 colours of elastic insets, which were incorporated into the Ascot boot, one of the brand’s bestsellers, by a seamstress who was flown in from Portugal for the event. No matter whether one fancies high heels, rubber boots, ballerinas, over-knees, or ankle boots, all Lemon Jelly shoes are always accompanied by a fresh lemon fragrance.

Lemon Jelly, Procalçado S.A., Caterina Vestia, T 00351.227.470618, geral@lemonjellyshoes.com, www.lemonjellyshoes.com

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Coats Milano Perfect Name

Three features of the new Coats Milano coat collection, which is part of the Italian company Moorer S.p.A. (founded in 2006), convinced Munich-based Heritage Agents right away: “The perfect name, democratic prices, and a great reinterpretation of the coat in a casual and soft look combined with sartorial attributes. These coats are the replacement of classic coat processing and a great alternative to outdoor jackets, because their shape is not necessarily made to wear a sports jacket underneath”, says Malte Kötteritz. Design refinements are, for example, open edge processing, unconstructed models, and high-quality double-face qualities. Incidentally, each model is named after a famous Metro station in Milan. Coats Milano started with the autumn/winter 2016 season and teamed up with Heritage Agents to start distribution on the German market as of spring/summer 2017. The collection instantly convinced household names such as Die Form in Oldenburg, Schnitzler in Münster, Sagmeister in Bregenz, and Braun in Hamburg. The retail prices range from 449 to 699 Euros. The collection rhythm is classic; the deliveries are scheduled for January/ February and July/August.

Moorer S.p.A., Castelnuovo del Garda/Italy, T 0039.045.6450770, info@moorer.it, www.coatsmilano.it

Nobi Talai Purism for Urban Nomads

Nobi Talai is the name of a label launched by Nobieh Talaei from Teheran. The simplification of her name is in line with her style.

Her purist collection is inspired by the craftsmanship of Iranian nomads. The look is characterised by high-quality materials, clear and sophisticated cuts, flowing silhouettes, and refined details with subtle knots and draperies. All items are manufactured in Germany. The collection offers today’s cosmopolitan urban nomads both comfort and elegance.

The modern blend of Occident and Orient convinced the newly founded Fashion Council Germany, which promotes Nobi Talai and showcased her collection at the Paris Fashion Weeks 2016. In November 2016, the “Bunte” magazine declared her the best young designer by presenting her with the “New Faces Award”. In terms of distribution and strategic issues, Nobi Talai enjoys the support of Marco Stein Concepts. The label’s customer list includes the likes of Stylebop and Off & Co. The retail prices start at 339 Euros for blouses and pants, but can reach up to 2,129 Euros for exclusive items such as lambskin coats.

Nobi Talai, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.28040885, info@nobitalai.com, www.nobitalai.com

074 THE LONGVIEW

Andrea Panconesi: “Fashion Has Become a Universal and Global Language.”

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THE LONGVIEW 075

Andrea Panconesi believes he is a lucky guy. This should come as no surprise given the fact that his second name is “Fortunato�.

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076 THE LONGVIEW

Andrea Panconesi has transformed Luisa Via Roma, an internationally renowned multi-brand store, into a global web shop. With its five million visitors per month, it is among the leading e-commerce businesses in the luxury retail segment. The team consists of 200 employees from 15 nations, the website “speaks” eight languages, and the company ships to 180 countries. Luisa Via Roma was among the first to focus on social media communication. Today, the company has a monthly reach of seven million.

In 2016, the multi-brand retailer generated 120 million Euros revenue. Even though the lion’s share is contributed by e-commerce, Andrea Panconesi simply cannot envisage Luisa Via Roma without its bricks-and-mortar store, which also acts as a stage for legendary events for interdisciplinary brand cooperation. Every two years, the company invites bloggers and influencers to Florence to attend the so-called Firenze4Ever event. Three days before the start of the Pitti Immagine Uomo, the social media stars are provided with everything they need to shoot eye-catching images of the latest fashion. This event once again proves the company is a pioneer in terms of marketing. During his interview with style in progress, the owner discusses the magic of fashion, the joy of buying, and the global language of fashion.

Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold, Photos: Ryan Hursh, Luisa Via Roma

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078 THE LONGVIEW

“It is a truly magical moment when the time to start the new season - with all its new collections - has finally come.” at Luisa Via Roma during the trade show have to pay a small fee for the privilege. Is this the future of outstanding retailers - that they are rewarded by brands for supplying a stage?

Patricia Urquiola has designed a new terrace for Luisa Via Roma, on which the store displays exclusive furniture

by Moroso and Kettal. Since 2014, a home department complements the range of womenswear and menswear, shoes, and accessories.

Ever since you joined Luisa Via Roma, a company that dates back to 1930, you have added a new dimension to the business on numerous occasions - whether it was your idea to focus on designer fashion or your pioneering step into the world of e-commerce as early as 2000. Do you perceive yourself as a visionary?

I believe that was luck. That is, by the way, also my second name: Andrea Fortunato (“The Lucky One”). These are the lucky twists of life. Nothing I have done or what has happened has gone wrong - so far at least. All lucky strikes…

One often hears that the stationary retail industry has no future - and yet you prove every day that physical trade cannot work without credibility. Or does it? Could you imagine Luisa Via Roma without its store?

No, I absolutely couldn’t. After all, our tradition, our history, and our roots are deeply embedded in this store.

Firenze4Ever is an event that is an incredible strain on you and your team. If you look at it with the eyes of a cold-blooded calculator: Is the effort worth it?

It is our most important communication measure, so the effort is absolutely worthwhile. Firenze4Ever is a fusion of new ideas and contacts. It is a platform for exchange and I believe that such a physical 117 style in progress

exchange - meeting face-to-face - is something that is deeply embedded in our human DNA. Even if everything else may move into the web one day, actually coming together for a meeting will always make the difference.

Blogger and influencer marketing is all the rage today. When you launched Firenze4Ever, it was impossible to foresee this level of significance. Did you back the right horse intuitively or did you know right from the outset that your efforts would result in return-on-investment?

I’d say both… When we started this event, nobody could have predicted the evolution of e-commerce and nobody could have foreseen how this development would, in turn, drive and change the realms of marketing and communication. This means that we also couldn’t have foreseen that a simple celebration, which is what Firenze4Ever was, would evolve into our company’s most important communication measure.

What is more important to you today: an article in the Italian edition of Vogue or persuading a significant blogger to

“It is part of our self-perception to fulfil this role as a stepping stone.”

become an advocate for the Luisa Via Roma brand?

Both remain important. We wouldn’t want to forego any of the two.

During the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show, your store transforms into a place of pilgrimage. Paying a visit to Luisa Via Roma is a must for all your colleagues during the event.

How do you prepare for such an exhibition?

This is a continuous task that keeps everyone at Luisa Via Roma busy for six months. It is a truly magical moment when the time to start the new season - with all its new collections - has finally come. It is an electrifying moment for everyone who loves fashion as much as we do. It is a moment when everything suddenly becomes physical. This is another parallel to Firenze4Ever.

Just because all these people exchange so much information, it doesn’t mean that they actually know each other. Getting to know each other is magical. For us as retailers, it is particularly magical when everything becomes tangible at the start of the season.

The fashion and the beautiful items that we saw six months earlier - or three months earlier in the case of catwalk collections - all across the globe, are finally in our store and we can touch them.

This moment overwhelms me time and time again.

It is no secret that the brands that present their collections

No, this is not our philosophy.

I believe being presented and showing oneself is a very natural interest from the brands’ point of view. We prefer showcasing brands and designers who deserve the attention.

Many futurologists describe so-called “beacon retailers” as stores that have managed to cross local boundaries and develop international radiance.

What is your prognosis? How many such stores will there be and what will define them?

One has to distinguish between multi-brand, mono-brand, and department stores, which all have very different future prospects. We perceive ourselves as a “speciality store”. Our strength is to create a unique cocktail and lend each outfit a special touch.

We mix this cocktail anew for every customer who visits our store or web shop. We are not a mono-brand store and we definitely don’t want to turn into a department store. Our task is to coordinate the best of all collections, thereby creating a style that we alone purport. This is how we manage to unite very contrary brands under one roof.

Your website lists 600 brands.

You are perceived as a ruthless buyer. What doesn’t convince, simply isn’t ordered. What are your selection criteria and how do you decide what is dropped from the product range? Do you allow yourself to listen to your gut feeling when making such decisions? Can a brand that generates an abundance of sales and traffic be dropped due to a mere lack of creativity?

080 THE LONGVIEW

Definitely. That has been in our DNA since the beginning.

I remember the time when I had just started easing into the world of fashion - a world I was not familiar with. I was capable - and still am - of incredible enthusiasm. Every time I meet a designer who has a strong personality and an individual design language that is different from everyone else, I take the liberty of adding him or her to my product range. Usually, such new discoveries only generate revenue further down the line - sometimes after a season, sometimes after a year, sometimes even only after three years. In the 1960s, I ordered a Japanese designer who had travelled to Paris for the very first time… His name was Kenzo and absolutely nobody knew who he was. When his stuff arrived at the store, it didn’t sell at all for one, two, even three seasons. I was told that I should let it go and not order anymore.

I was told that nobody wants to buy this stuff. However, Kenzo turned into a phenomenon from one day to the next. Today, it is a collection that we have listed for more than 40 years, even though it is - from a stylistic point of view - not in the same hands as it was back then.

Luisa Via Roma is a stepping stone for many new talents.

Your colleagues keep a close eye on what you order. Are you aware of the fact that you are often the kick-starter for a career?

Yes, I certainly am. But this is part of our job and our daily work. We are constantly on the lookout for new talents and it is part of our self-perception to fulfil this role as a stepping stone. Our customers demand this from us.

They expect us to be the place where they can discover new talents or trends first. That’s why we added the “New Talent” section to our website a few years ago.

Are there still differences in taste in all the countries you

“I believe that classic communication - ad personam, so to speak - is the most effective.”

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“When I had just started easing into the world of fashion, I was capable of incredible enthusiasm. I still am.” sell to? Do you buy some collections with a certain clientele in mind - for example, for the Asian or Russian market?

No. We sell to 180 countries around the world and we offer the same product range in all markets - except for a few brands. But I can count those brands on one hand. The same designers, the same styles, the same tastes - fashion has become a universal and global language.

It no longer has local bias. It’s like music - you can hear the same music in the US, Australia, Japan, and Europe. Fashion is as universal as, for example, contemporary art.

Do you believe that the growth of e-commerce will remain constant over the next few years or do you think that the market will become saturated eventually? Where does this growth stem from? Or more provocatively: Who are you stealing business from?

From the mono-brand stores that spread pestilent boredom all over the world… This is also the reason why some brands have already started closing their stores again.

Berliner Mode Salon hails its collaboration with you as a resounding success. What makes German design special from your perspective?

perceive it as a disturbance. On the contrary, the more contacts I make the better. I really only need the cap when it’s cold. Just look at me (laughs and point at his bald head). And I only wear sunglasses because I cannot stand bright light.

You were a veritable pioneer in terms of “See Now, Buy Now”.

Do you see it as a logical development that an increasing number of brands only publicly showcase their collection on the catwalks when it is already available to buy?

I wish this development luck.

However, I feel the need to point out that it is merely a new, different way to achieve the same results. We introduced our “Buy It First” category ten years ago. We afforded our customers the possibility to reserve their favourite items right after the fashion show. They actually buy the product once it is delivered.

If that is right after the show, then that’s fine too.

How does one communicate in a world that has become so forgetful? Does one utilise classic means or completely new approaches?

I believe that classic communication - ad personam, so to speak - is the most effective. Our customers are, however, scattered all over the world. It is quite obvious that we need different communication channels to reach people in 180 countries.

In this context, the best choice is always the fastest and most direct medium. That used to be the fax; now it is the Internet.

The Italian fashion industry has suffered for many years. What needs to be done to improve the situation again?

The Italian fashion industry needs a country that works and, in turn, an economy that functions properly. It needs politicians who actually lead this country, which has always been a pioneer in economic and historical terms - even on an international level. Let’s take a look at Italian aesthetics. In this respect, we are the cradle of the whole western culture. The policymakers have, to this day, not done their homework, which is why the economy isn’t growing.

A country needs prudent, intelligent, and progressive leadership.

Investments must be made with the medium-term and long-term future in mind and shouldn’t be made for electoral purposes.

They need to be made with the welfare of the country in mind.

The economy of a country is no different than the economy of a city or a family. If the head of a family is never present, the family will perish - just like a city that lacks a mayor. At the end of the day, this is also what happens when a dysfunctional government is in office.

If you could offer Matteo Renzi a job in your company right now, what position would you hire him for?

I would appoint him as the third patron - not of Luisa Via Roma, but of Florence. We already have Saint Giovanni and Saint Pitti.

He could be Saint Matteo.

Fashion - just like art, music, or culture in general - flourishes in the most developed societies.

Germany is the most influential economic power in Europe. It’s only natural that this power is also reflected in the development of an independent language in terms of fashion design or art.

What happens when you visit a trade fair or a fashion show? Do you need a baseball cap and dark sunglasses to avoid being harassed? Or can you still browse and judge in peace?

No, certainly not… I don’t

Andrea Panconesi cannot envisage Luisa Via Roma without its roots in the stationary retail trade: “That’s the foundation of our entire tradition.”

082 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

NOT ENJOYABLE?

IT SURE IS. We merely need to remind ourselves of how great the industry we work in actually is.

An opinion piece by Stephan Huber.

Back in 1990 (Dear god!!!), I found myself in the midst of the fashion world by pure coincidence.

To be completely honest, I didn’t know whether I should study or not at the time, which is why I gladly accepted an offer to start an editor’s apprenticeship at the Austrian subsidiary of a renowned trade publication. I was - for want of a better word - a lateral entrant with long hair, a loud mouth, and a desire to write.

This decision seemed to baffle my circle of friends for quite some time. “Are you serious? You are writing about clothes now?” For many years, my default answer to this question was the following: “Hey… It’s a normal business, but with cooler women and more fun.”

The answer was short, honest, and highly effective.

I can confirm that the first argument in my answer is still true today, albeit that I have a slightly different approach to the topic than I had when I was a 20-year-old volunteer. However, we probably should rethink the mention of fashion and fun in the same sentence. In this context, there is a serious gap between claim and reality.

The world and society in which we live has changed over the last 25 years - in a pace that always seemed frenzied and shows no signs of slowing down. Driven by the powerful twins digitalisation and globalisation, our world has become larger and narrower simultaneously. I will continue to reiterate this point, because understanding this direct interaction is indispensable. Our world offers an incomprehensible number of new opportunities and possibilities. On the other hand, it also confronts us with the same 117 style in progress

number of challenges and problems. The fashion industry, which continues to be a surprisingly precise mirror of societal transformations, has been affected by these developments - that was inevitable. In fact, it certainly feels as if no stone remained unturned.

The foundation on which the aforementioned stones of this business rest has, however, remained unchanged. The idea is still to inspire people with ideas, innovations, style, and products to an extent that persuades them to open both their hearts and their wallets. There’s a pretty simple way of putting it: Whoever strives to inspire others has to be enthusiastic about what he or she does, produces, or sells. This means that fun is a quite significant success factor.

Once the fun element is lost, one also suffers in terms of success.

But that’s exactly what happened.

I have heard the sentence “It just isn’t fun anymore” way too often from quite different sides of the business over the last few months - much too often actually.

This dissatisfaction was conveyed during conversations about a lack of customer frequency, consumer behaviour, search for personnel, payment moral, reciprocal pressure from the industry and retailers, lack of manners among “partners”, etc. These complaints were always understandable on an individual level. In its entirety, this is a fairly unsatisfactory reflection of the business.

However, none of this should come as a surprise to us. For each of these issues, there are not only reasons, but also solutions. In many cases, a commitment to a different conversation culture

could increase the fun factor quite considerably. On the following pages, you will read about many exciting approaches and thought-provoking ideas in this context.

However, I would like to return to the general, super-ordinate level. From a media-related point of view, there has never been more suggestion of fun. There is no escape. It is, after all, the golden calf of the leisure society. The underlying message is that we are supposed to have fun and be happy when we are NOT working. This idea is the focus of advertising campaigns for outdoor brands and our radio stations start the countdown to the weekend on Wednesday - at the latest.

Without a doubt, there are a lot of jobs that offer very little fun or no fun at all. These jobs are monotonous or physically exhausting. These jobs can confront individuals with the dark side of society. It would be prudent to remind ourselves of this from time to time - with a certain level of humility. Maybe this will remind us how privileged we actually are.

This is the spirit I want to carry into the new season. I am looking forward to exciting conversations, great products, bold suggestions, and new ideas.

I am looking forward to learning and exploring. Most of all, I am looking forward to interacting with many people. I already know that I will have a lot of fun. I will have a lot of fun at work in the fashion industry. attention will tu rn ou r we y, wa e th By women in tioned cooler to the aforemen r ma ga zine)! ou the su mmer (in

084 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

“THIS JUST

ISN’T FUN ANYMORE!”

is a sentence that we have heard much too often of late. Fun is, however, a decisive factor for success.

This is particularly true for the fashion industry. What has happened? What is spoiling the fun within our business? And what is the most fun in terms of our respective jobs?

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper, Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

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WHAT'S THE STORY 085 FUN

ADVENTURE WORLDS

Daniel P. Werner, buyer for denim & urbanwear, The KaDeWe Group

“Fashion is strongly associated with emotions and we are facing difficult times. Surplus in general and the - seemingly - insecure economic situation often prevent customers from basing purchase decisions on emotions and the majority of buyers have - understandably - become very cautious. More often than not, customers will decide to order simple items and collections. This makes stores more comparable than they should be. The emotions that fashion should trigger are lost, which consequently takes the fun factor out of the business. We should return to being aware that we are afforded the unique opportunity to lure customers with adventure worlds. This is the approach we chose to base The Storey, our new concept store, on. We strive to convince our customers in Munich by offering a special, unique shopping experience. This experience includes elements such as a Japanese ramen restaurant (which will open for business this year) and a framework programme featuring resident DJs. Triggering emotions, astonishing customers, smiling, and - maybe - making them shake their heads in disbelief are features we need to focus on. That’s how we can re-inject fun into our business and - subsequently - increase sales.”

INHUMANE CONDITIONS Bruno Heller, owner of Ciolina Berlin

“In general, I sense a too strong fixation on monetary aspects and - subsequently - there isn’t enough focus on tradition, innovation, and fair working conditions.

One of the most recent examples is the BBC’s coverage on refugee children from Syria who are employed

by Zara and Mango in what can only be described as inhumane conditions. What spoils the fun for me most of all is that not a single daily newspaper or trade magazine condemned this with bold headlines.”

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086 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

MARGIN DECLINE AND LOSS OF FREQUENCY

Franz Bernhard Wagener, owner of Wagener Baden-Baden

“It seems as if certain types of bait, which have attracted fish for many years, are no longer sufficiently attractive. Even the more experienced fishermen (retailers) are at a loss - and this has been the case for many months. The enormous product pressure is seeking release through new distribution channels that bypass medium-sized retailers. As a result, the noticeable margin decline and the loss of customer frequency in the pedestrian zones are ruining the annual results. If that doesn’t kill the fun, what does? And today’s recommended survival strategies don’t necessarily translate into revenue.”

ELBOWS OUT

Hans Weber, owner of City Jeans by Hans, Berlin

‘‘Everyone who has been in this industry longer than most is aware that our business has become more difficult. Globalisation is in full swing and whoever wants to keep up with the pace has to fight for it. Those who are faster will swallow those who are slower. The elbows are out in terms of competition for customers. That’s our job; whining isn’t conducive. What we - those who work with customers on a daily basis - certainly don’t need is the ‘wisdom’ and the eternal calculated optimism of the sales agencies, trade show organisers, and trade publications. They wouldn’t last half a day on the sales floor, yet they still think they can tell us stationary retailers how to do our job more efficiently. Recognition and interaction would be a lot more helpful.

Reduction agreements with labels to recreate a more realistic sales window would be a good start in terms of returning the element of fun and the fun of making money - to our trade. The burning of goods doesn’t create covetousness, but turns customers into bargain hunters and makes the customers who buy at regular prices feel like idiots. In this context, fun isn’t a oneway street. The whole industry needs to find common ground again.’’

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a l l s e a so n lamb s k in – super l ig ht

www.marlino.com

088 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

DELICIOUS

Holger Petermann, owner of Think Inc., Munich

‘‘Just the other day, I was driving along ‘Elisbethstrasse’ in Munich with a growling stomach. I spotted a sign on a restaurant that said: ‘Pizza only 4.50 Euros - 2 pizzas for 7 Euros!’ I thought: ‘Wait a minute, that isn’t a bad Italian restaurant. Wow! It must be bad if the restaurant needs to sell pizzas at that price!’ So two pizzas cost 7 Euros. Why doesn’t the owner put up a hand-written sign that advertises delicious, hot stone oven pizza with fresh porcino mushrooms and rocket salad on real Pancetta from Italy?

That would have sounded tasty. I would have liked that. I certainly wasn’t going to pop in for 2 pizzas for 7 Euros.

In my mind, that raises doubts regarding the quality of ingredients. Is that the attitude to life that an Italian restaurant should embody? Is that the attitude to life that is supposed to make me want to consume? And how does this translate in terms of the textile industry? Hang on a minute! There once was the term ‘fashion’, which was then changed back to ‘textiles’. The latter sounds hard as steel and doesn’t really communicate an attitude. I guess we all need to work on this notion a little. We need to reconnect the concept and appearance of an attitude to life with the idea that people love being well-dressed. It should be fun to sell this concept to our customers. Ultimately, I drove to my favourite restaurant, where I was greeted warmly and served in a friendly manner. It was truly delicious. I didn’t mind at all that the bill was higher than 7 Euros. I was more than satisfied.’’

ROLLERCOASTER RIDE

Ulrike Kähler, authorised signatory & project director at Gallery

“The fashion industry is a world in itself and can be compared with an exciting rollercoaster ride. I enjoy embracing the changes within the business and the need to develop innovative new concepts. I am in contact with my customers - both exhibitors and visitors - on a daily basis. Together, we create a fashion trade show that is reliable. I returned from a trip through Germany a few days ago; I strive to cooperate closely with my exhibitors. Naturally, the job also involves restructuring processes and phases of change, but this makes my work day more exciting.

It is fun to work on the pulse of the times. My job is therefore the fulfilment of a dream. Every day is different and is therefore very varied. Enjoying your job is a prerequisite for being successful and satisfied.”

117 style in progress

www.fil-noir.com

090 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

CLEAR CONCEPTS

Bernd Deuter, head of marketing at Reischmann Ravensburg

“Too much merchandise and too much product pressure on the market are currently leading to a repression that is unfortunately - regulated via the price in many areas. Sadly, one cannot (yet) withdraw completely from this competition, mainly because there are too many similar products and the market participants have not yet developed sufficient profiles to distinguish themselves. I believe that addressing sales problem via the price alone is the wrong approach. We need clearer concepts and retailers with better profiles. My personal passion is still to excite customers with fashion.

Our season openings are the best examples in this respect.

Our fashion show, which I present myself and during which I introduce the newest looks to our best customers, is a ‘magical moment’. I am truly happy when I can sense that the ‘pictures’ I am creating are understood and when I see the spark of fashion inspiration in the eyes of the visitors after the show. That’s when the customers and I are part of the same community. This is fun in its purest form.”

SUCCESS AND PROMOTION

Silke Bolms and Kerstin Geffert, owners and founders of Silk Relations GmbH, Berlin

‘‘As a PR agency, we enjoy the great advantage of not having to sell anything, except maybe exciting stories about our customers. We see the results of our efforts every week when new magazines arrive in our mailbox, we receive proof links, or almost 200 journalists visit our agency during the two days of the ‘GermanPressDays’. It is also highly entertaining to see the immediate effect of our work when consumers call us and ask where they can buy products they spotted in newspapers, in magazines, or on blogs. We find it equally fulfilling to promote young talent or to support sustainable and socially committed companies. It’s great to know that, for example, every pair of shoes sold secures fair working conditions for people in less privileged countries. It’s also great to see a fantastic collection live on the catwalk for the first time.’’

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#thevestbrand WWW.DORNSCHILD.COM

092 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

LACK OF TEAM SPIRIT Frauke Ortner, owner of Ortner Dortmund

“We have all been aware of problems with delivery rhythms, goods volumes, payment terms, and calculations for years, but none of the involved parties have adapted these factors to the current market situation. In line with the sentiment that everything has so far always worked out in the end, important tasks have been ignored and no new approaches have been developed. Today, we are all paying the price for a lack of team spirit within the industry. Naturally, exceptions still prove the rule. These exceptions should motivate us all to focus our tasks on the right topics in the future. For us, personal encounters with customers, recognition granted by their loyalty, and positive feedback in terms of our product range are also great motivational factors.”

SPOTTING CHANGE

Max Crämer, owner of ATF-Clothing, Nuremberg

‘‘The retail trade is really struggling due to the huge online selection and the strong presence of vertically integrated concepts. However, these changes were foreseeable. Many retailers have failed to read the signs of the times. Their customers are more fashionable and better informed than their stores. Their staff is average, social media accounts are barely maintained, and trade shows are no longer visited regularly. These retailers merely buy what the agencies are offering them at the time. Those who recognised the changes - and adapted accordingly - are now having fun. They offer an authentic lifestyle and emotions, as well as competent staff on the sales floor. The latter communicates the philosophy of the store perfectly.

They have an instinct for trends and have mastered the art of conveying them to the customers. The store has to be turned into a brand, not the other way around. The right size is also decisive. Anyone who is too big cannot react as swiftly as smaller retail concepts.’’

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094 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

WELCOME TO THE MACHINE

Torsten Lange, e-commerce and digital branding mentor for entrepreneurs

‘‘Comfortable, old-fashioned fun is no longer part of the fashion industry. Many aren’t ready to admit that yet. It’s only logical given all the vertically integrated companies, category killers, TK Maxx, and the sales pressure within a completely saturated market. Data, process optimisation, and on-demand supply chains are now the key factors. The product itself has basically become secondary. If you can’t take pleasure in this new situation, then you should probably think about switching industries. In fairness, only the consumers are having fun. There are still beautiful products out there; every now and then one can spot them outside the mass market. Welcome to the machine! :-)’’

NO SUCCESS NO FUN

Cüneyit Yilmaz, owner of Laufsteg Augsburg

“It isn’t fun when suppliers refuse to understand the industry and don’t follow current market developments, but then still try to gag us with even higher budgets during almost every order round. The fact that area managers are willing to travel to attain some feedback from the PoS should be a good foundation for a partnership that benefits both sides. Unfortunately, the aforementioned feedback is often forgotten when the next appointment in the showroom is scheduled; the only aim seems to be to push for ‘more budget’.

The industry needs to support us in a stronger and more flexible manner. It needs to share responsibility for the flow of goods and strengthen us to allow us to promote joint success. If we have fulfilled our own duties in terms of merchandising, as well as employee training and motivation, the suppliers should support us when we need help with regard to a certain collection or specific products. Naturally, almost all suppliers offer the possibility to exchange goods, but it isn’t fun if this service is treated as if the supplier in question needs to clear your entire warehouse and then even requires that you order 30 percent more goods within the exchange transaction. I only recently had a chat with a sales manager that really spoiled my fun. We were talking about the fact that we requested a swap involving a collection that we have been selling for almost a decade. His offer was three percent of the order volume in exchange for another article. When I raised the objection that this means we could only exchange one article, he answered: ‘Where would we be if all retailers simply swapped the goods they aren’t capable of selling for the cherries within our warehouse?’ This is one of the sentences that really drains all the fun from our business.

That being said, there is still a lot of fun to be had too, especially with a team that enjoys coming to work, loves offering guidance to our customers, and treats each member with respect. Even more so if the team enjoys living and passing on fashion, thereby making people happy with the greatest ‘trivial pursuit’ of the world: fashion.”

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CLOUD JACKET

www.mountainforce.com

096 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

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WHAT'S THE STORY 097 FUN

Oh How We Laughed!

A shot of irony, a little tongue in cheek, and real fun: even in harsh times fashion is allowed to be or better: must be - fun. However, what is fun and where does the fun stop?

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

“For me and the team at Lindner, fashion means having fun. It’s fun to change, dress up, and be different. It’s equally fun to - occasionally - provoke, scandalise, and experiment…

Many of you visit us because you feel the need for change, would like to look great, and experience the feel of excellent materials. All of this makes us feel good about ourselves, lends us a certain radiance, and is - at the end of the day - good fun. #fashionisfun” Susanne Lindner, the owner of Lindner Fashion in Dortmund, hit the nail on the head in a newsletter she sent out to her customers. “We have committed ourselves to the fun in fashion, especially as customers have fun while they are shopping too. Nowadays, I try to see what happens in the store from a humorous angle. I often remind my customers that they are not here to buy a fitted kitchen. I try to dispel their seriousness a little. Customers often ask themselves why they should wear a collection highlight instead of just allowing themselves to experience the pleasure of buying an extraordinary item of clothing. I don’t shy away

from adding a little irony to a consultation. Invariably, I’ll suggest to my customers that they should wear a particular piece for a yoga class or a children’s birthday party. Why not, right?

It’s fun to dress like someone from a different planet once in a while or to dress up for everyday life without a particular reason. Many customers need a little push in this respect.”

In order to convey this passion for fashion, one needs to feel it oneself. “Customers enjoy what I perceive as fun. The mood has to come from within you. If one is a retailer who is miserable, who has lost faith in fashion, is blind to the own business, and is merely seeking security, then it might be time to consider working in a different industry.

I always say that I own a fashion store, not a clothing store. In this context, it is essential that I remain curious, open to inspiration, and enthusiastic. During my 34 years in the business, there were times when that wasn’t exactly easy for me. But then I find myself in Paris, discover something new, and suddenly I can feel goose bumps of excitement. That’s when I realise style in progress 117

098 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

that I really have a burning passion for fashion.” Susanne Lindner does acknowledge that the fun must also make economical sense: “At the end of the day, we all live off the sales we make. Of course, fun and reason need to “Nowadays, I try to see what happens in the store from a humorous angle. I often remind my customers that they are not here to buy a fitted kitchen.”

- Susanne Lindner, Lindner Fashion Dortmund

remain in balance. Nevertheless, it is wrong to withdraw into a supposed safety zone. Product ranges based on safety choices don’t persuade people to buy.

On the contrary, customers have a much greater desire to dress a little more wildly than ever before. They see bloggers who promote something crazy, they mix expensive and inexpensive labels, and they have fun while doing so. We need to embody this type of fun.” The hash tag #fashionisfun, which is used in many Lindner postings on Facebook and Instagram, is reality.

Fun Means Being Close to the Customer

The Moschino dress is a real eye-catcher, which is why it has a deliberately chosen place in the shop window of Popp & Kretschmer in Vienna. “Such ‘tongue-in-cheek’ articles often dispel inhibitions that might prevent customers from coming into our store or allow us to address people who are not yet among our regular customers”, says Sascha Trefelik, a member of the owner family and, as such, responsible for buying and marketing within the traditional family business. “There are two customer tiers that one appeals to with witty collections by the likes of Moschino: the fashionistas, who see such an article as a fashion statement, and classic customers, who understand the irony and simply want to have a little fun with it.” Seeing that many Viennese people associate Popp & Kretschmer with its outstanding evening dress department, Sascha Trefelik strives to focus the communication on pieces that capture attention. “Our online shop, 117 style in progress

our social media presence, and PR measures are tools that assist us in macerating our image as a pure Opera Ball outfitter.”

Despite all the modern “Viennese wit”, Sascha Trefelik would never dream of diluting the core values of the 125-year-old business. “Shopping makes you happy, but shopping at our store has to make you particularly happy. That is our claim. It has always been our aim to ensure that customers leave our store with a smile on their faces. We are renowned for our outstanding level of service. We cultivate this distinctive feature. Nothing is more important than the employees and the services they provide, especially if you want to convey convincingly that shopping is fun.”

Triggering Emotions

The Minnie Mouse on the sweater by Onomato has a rather defiant look on her face. This could mirror the exact mood of a customer who has just entered the store. That’s really all it takes. This little act of self-recognition can turn the mood and transform a purchase of frustration into a purchase of pleasure.

“Given all the negative reports that are showered over us and the consumers on a daily basis, it is essential that your product range includes items that are a little ‘tongue-in-cheek’, ironic, and humorous. These items can trigger a smile or even be a little sarcastic, but they always need to represent a fashion statement. “‘Tongue-in-cheek’ articles often dispel inhibitions that might prevent customers from coming into our store.”

- Sascha Trefelik, Popp & Kretschmer Vienna

This principle works in every segment and in different price ranges”, says Holger Schmies, who is, as the managing director of Onomato, responsible for a range of very special licensed products. Be it Disney or Star Wars characters, Onomato utilises the concise eye-catchers as motifs for high-quality premium fashion for men and women. The success it enjoys with its retail partners has given the brand the courage to expand its clothing collection by adding

various specials. It has even launched its own bag collection, which is now being offered to the market via a distribution channel that is completely separated from the brand’s textile operations. The pulling power of the witty motifs is embodied by the current hype about a Mickey Mouse rucksack that created waves on social media channels long before it actually hit the shelves. “As a brand, we generally try to divert this attention to the retailers and the PoS. At the end of the day, we all profit when our products are in high demand and sell quickly”, Holger Schmies adds.

Grounded Fun

A Bambi motif on a sweater

by Givenchy doesn’t merely make Thumper’s heart skip a beat. This “fun item” sets you back 850 Euros - and this is where the fun ends for many a “Given all the negative reports that are showered over us and the consumers on a daily basis, it is essential that your product range includes items that are a little ‘tongue-in-cheek’, ironic, and humorous.”

- Holger Schmies, Onomato

customer. Two funny-looking ghosts made of Shearling as pockets on a fine cashmere coat

by Anya Hindmarch cost no less than 1,750 Euros, while a book-shaped clutch with a Star Wars comic motif by Olympia Le-Tan clocks in at 2,100 Euros.

Dolce & Gabbana’s handbag in a bookshelf design is even more expensive at a price of 5,450 Euros. Your wallet really needs to be bursting at the seams if these prices don’t make you choke with laughter. “If an item is particularly striking, it is not meant for everyday use. In this case, the price at which it is offered becomes quite important.

God knows it doesn’t need to be cheap, but the price-performance ration needs to be right”, Holger Schmies explains. Hinterhofagentur’s Dominik Meuer shares this view when he says: “A so-called ‘aha effect’ can be created by a number of different elements such as little details, the use of patterns or a certain

“It is absolutely vital to make customers smile, to surprise them, and to inspire them.”

- Dominik Meuer, Die Hinterhofagentur

colour, and materials that have been patched or processed in unusual ways. It is, however, vital that the quality is outstanding. This is particularly true if it is a fairly unknown brand name.

In this case, the quality must exceed that of an established brand. This rule applies regardless whether wit or irony are used to create additional value.”

Dominik Meuer is, for example, very happy with the experiences he has made with the Italian brand Bob: “The designer is a cool, easygoing guy in his late 20s who certainly doesn’t waste a single thought on last season’s sales list during the design process. This is a good thing, because it ensures that Bob always brings something new to the table. The retailers that ordered from the Bob collection are very positive about the brand and are thrilled by the individuality, wit, and tongue-in-cheek attitude that are reflected in its designs.

It doesn’t necessarily need to be striking. For example, a reversible polo shirt in blue and orange is a product that creates a moment of surprise. If, on top of all that, the pricing is on point too, then consumers are quite willing to reward this added value.” So is the retail trade having enough fun at the moment? “Naturally, many still lack the courage to order something surprising or witty. I can understand these reservations to a certain extent, but the reluctance to take risks is often mirrored by the stores in question. These retailers also lack the special features that could surprise their customers in their respective product ranges.

In a time when nobody really needs anything anymore and the buying mood isn’t particularly good, we believe it is absolutely vital to make customers smile, to surprise them, and to inspire them.”

www.bloom-fashion.com

17.01. - 19.01.2017 BERLIN PREMIUM

Stand H7- G04 , Luckenwalder Straße 4-6 , 10963 Berlin

28.01. - 31.01.2017 DÜSSELDORF

United Fashion , Rather Strasse 49e , 40476 Düsseldorf

11.02. - 14.02.2017 MÜNCHEN

Agentur Martin Steckel c/o Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH , Am Kosttor 1 , 80331 München

100 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

This must be the home of fun. Happiness,

an Italo-American collaboration, offers statement t-shirts, gadgets, accessories, and athleisure wear.

Happiness is guaranteed. style in progress sat down for a chat with Michael Scarpellini, the founder of Happiness.

Are happiness, fun, and easiness key factors in terms of sales?

The most important factor is our product - how comfortable our products are and that they are easy to wear. People know that Happiness is a major streetwear brand. However, they also want to know how we produce our jogging pants or t-shirts and how we create our collections.

We are happy to show them our factory and explain the production process. This is our secret; we make them a part of our family.

Is the demand for “fun” products rising?

I think so! The era of black clothes has come to an end.

People want their outfits to be funny. They want to wear colourful things, mix prints, and create a witty look.

What should make the customer happy? The price, quality, or design?

People definitely look at the design first. They are attracted by the colour, the style, and the store. Only then will they consider quality. At the end, they compare price and quality.

I think that people know how to compare price and quality, which means they can decide which products are better than others. A good mix of design, 117 style in progress

price, and quality is what makes the customer happy.

Does fashion need to be more fun?

For sure… Fashion embodies fun, creativity, and inspiration.

Creating fashion is a pleasure and everybody needs to sense that. People need to understand how much fun fashion really is.

What can a brand like yours do to ensure that shopping is fun?

We need to listen to what people want. We need to create an active relationship with our customers. We have to make them a part of our brand, allow them to create content, ask them how they experience our products, and find out what kind of products they would like to see in the store and in their wardrobes.

We want to make them our co-workers, so to speak.

Joy is the name of the game: the athleisurewear by Happiness.

Michael Scarpellini likes to have fun – as the founder of the Happiness label, tongue-in-cheek creations are part of his everyday business.

TRAVELLERS OF THE WORLD www.freedomday.it

102 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

Nicole Mohrmann, who manages three Mohrmann Basic stores in Munich and an online shop, is - in the best sense of the term - a colourful character.

Her product range is characterised by bits and bobs, gadgets, and fashion that is inspirationally unconventional.

How important is the fun element within a product range?

It’s very important, especially as the consumers don’t really need anything. Everyone has everything. There are only very few real must-have products and fashion trends that one simply has to partake in. So the retail trade has to ask itself how it can round off its product range, trigger emotions, and create worlds.

Is a smile a compliment for your work?

It absolutely is. It is an honour when customers tell me that they find something witty.

Especially in terms of accessories and gadgets, I prefer to choose things that I find witty myself.

This principle also works for fashion. For example, Vivetta, an Italian collection, surprised our buying team. The designs are crazy, but also very wearable.

We were amazed when we saw which customers bought the collection pieces simply because they liked it.

How much effort goes into the fun?

A lot of effort… I travel a lot and always try to remain open-minded. I can achieve this by, for instance, trying to avoid travelling to the same places or by travelling with my children, who are 15 and 17 years old. I sometimes find myself waiting in line in front of a very trendy 117 style in progress

skateboarding store in an area of London that I usually wouldn’t visit. This open-mindedness is essential in terms of buying. We try to clear our minds completely every season in order to really take in the new colours and silhouettes. And to ensure that we never forget to be happy!

Do you always change everything?

Yes. It is very important to question yourself and your buying process at all times. I discuss a lot with my employees and salespeople, because their perspective is important to me. In the online business, for example, we have learned that these gadgets can almost surpass fashion in terms of sales. We want to take this into account by taking a rather radical step forward with a re-design and reorientation of our online shop. We strive to offer an ever-changing concept that revolves around the curiosities we are known for.

What are your criteria when it comes to choosing new brands?

They need to grab attention at first sight. I need to be able to tell myself that I have never stocked anything like it before.

This can - to name an example from one particular season - be a kilim from Afghanistan. I liked those so much that I simply had to add them to my product range. They sold surprisingly

well too, but we put an end to them after that. We never carry anything over to the next season.

What is the economic value of what you refer to as bits and bobs?

At the end of the day, the gadgets are there to attract the attention of customers and to then sell the matching blouse too.

What is fun for you?

I enjoy the mix. Focusing on fashion alone wouldn’t fulfil me, neither would merely ordering from big brands. I need to be spontaneous and to be able to create product ranges the way we already do.

Beyond all conventions: Nicole Mohrmann’s stores offer a colourful bouquet of unconventional and inspiring items.

STAND 4.41

www.alberto-pants.com

104 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

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WHAT'S THE STORY 105 FUN

Dance of the Neurons Ultimately, shopping is not about weighing up costs and benefits rationally. Scientists have found out that shopping can hurt you or make you feel good. This creates a wealth of opportunities for retailers.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

The American retail trade is going down the tubes, so to speak.

People enter futuristic tubes for shopping, while scientists - tucked away safely behind a glass screen wait for something to light up on their respective monitors. Techniques such as the functional MRI are standard in a research field that is known as “neuroeconomics”.

Neuroscientists, psychologists, and marketing researchers combine forces to determine how human beings make decisions - while shopping, for example. By studying the brain activities, researchers

can predict surprisingly precisely whether a test subject will pick a product or not.

As part of a study titled “Neural Predictors of Paying”, the phenomenon of “the pain of paying” caused a sensation back in 2007.

The joint experiment of three US universities placed test subjects in a fMRI tube and showed them product photos. In doing so, the researchers noticed that the parts of the brain that stand for anticipation and enjoyment were activated.

The more activity, the more likely it was that the test subject would

push the “purchase button” a few seconds later.

Shopping Until it Hurts

Then the researchers revealed the price to the test subject. Suddenly, a brain area known as the insular cortex became active. This area is usually stimulated in times of emotional stress. The stronger the signal, the more likely it was that the test subject would withdraw from the aforementioned “purchase button”. In short: we buy until it hurts. The brain signals also enabled the scientists to prove that style in progress 117

106 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

purchase decisions are defined by emotions, not by rational considerations.

When this fairly young field of research emerged approximately ten years ago, it triggered similar concerns about misappropriation as the combination of psychology and economics did in its time. Even back then the tall stories about subliminal advertising were disproved.

Our hands also don’t automatically move to the most expensive product just because the sales display is designed with psychological factors in mind.

Most researchers in the field of neuroeconomics are, however, very careful to formulate their findings from the perspective of the customers. Human beings are supposed to feel good, even while shopping.

Elizabeth Dunn, a co-author of a book titled “Happy Money”, recommends separating the acts of paying and enjoying in terms of time. She claims that a holiday that was paid months before the actual trip makes people happy for a long time.

The research results that Dunn distils into this consumption advice make subscription models and pre-orders appear in a completely different light for the retail trade. One thing is clear: happy customers and ringing tills form a formidable team. However, it is paramount to ensure that the customers can’t hear the ringing of said till.

How Stores Can Ease the Pain

In the US, some fashion retailers have made it their aim to spare their customers the painful experience of paying. The cashiers at the Von Maur department store and the Century 117 style in progress

21 discount store immediately start a conversation that is supposed to distract the customers from the financial aspect. They take the credit card from the customers to ensure that he or she doesn’t have to initiate the transaction. In addition, the receipt is hidden in the shopping bag as soon as the purchase is completed. If you assemble your wardrobe there, you can enjoy the newest fashion trends without distractions. You are basically bypassing the insular cortex. Nobody really realises that money is changing hands.

The painful parting with money is, however, negated by the pure joy of finding a product on offer at a discount. One number has a truly magnetic effect in this context: the zero. This was determined by researchers at the University of Minnesota during an in-store experiment.

By promising a bonus pot, they managed to sell 73 percent more hand cream than with an equivalent price discount. This has led many US stores to tempt their customers into buying more by offering them the prospect of a small gift.

The pain-relieving bargain approach also seems to work when delivered in words. In a study conducted by the Carnegie Mellon University, potential DVD buyers were confronted with a “5 Dollar shipping fee” or a “small 5 Dollar shipping fee”.

The researchers had previously categorised the test subjects on a scale ranging from “spendthrift” to “skinflint”. The term “small” prompted 20 percent more skinflints to place an order.

However, researchers warn that turning shopping into such an “easy” activity can also be quite dangerous. In 2009, a team at the Richmond Univer-

sity discovered a link between online shopping and shopping addiction. It seems as if people with a tendency to gamble away all their belongings cannot resist the lure of shopping on the Internet.

Emotional Advantages of Stationary Retailing

This suggests that human beings are not rational buyers, but victims of a futile search for happiness. However, this doesn’t apply to all people. Only recently, it was proven that shopping can be an antidote for frustration (see interview).

In many ways, the stationary retail trade can adapt to such emotional effects more efficiently than online retailers. For example, customers can actually touch what makes them happy in a store.

As early as 2009, a study conducted by Suzanne Shu and Joanne Peck postulated that people create an emotional connection with a product by touching it. After touching a product they - for want of a better term - almost see it as their property. This is when the so-called “Endowment Effect” can occur. It has been proven that one appreciates things more when one possesses them.

This means that a product that has been tried on has a greater chance of being bought.

These findings have resulted in inviting dressing rooms, helpful staff, and more “touch-friendly” packaging and displays. This is where stationary retailers can really utilise their strengths - and they need to. After all, e-retailers have already started trying to imitate these mechanisms. The pioneers of the online trade have already abandoned the payment button and

replaced it with a product photo - touching equals buying! Some websites have found ways to simulate the experience of trying on a product. Warby Parker, an eyewear retailer, allows its customers to upload a photo and shows them what “their” glasses look like on their own nose. It works. And it’s fun.

Having fun while shopping is, however, not the only aspect that can persuade a human brain to decide in favour of buying a product. A mere absence of stress and unhappiness can be just as helpful. Clothing that doesn’t fit has, for example, turned out to be a considerable stress factor. The so-called “Vanity Sizing” of many brands, which was initially conceived as flattery, is often a real party pooper in the dressing rooms. A size 34 by one brand feels loose, while one can hardly close the button of a size 38 by a different brand. Well-trained staff can prevent such frustration. Or in other words: well-trained staff can help customers make decisions that they will still be happy with when they arrive at home.

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108 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

“Shopping is a Cheap, Fun Way to Address Sadness” “Making choices has been found to help restore a sense of control”, says Scott Rick, a researcher at the University of Minnesota.

Some scientists emphasise that the buying experience makes people happier than actually buying things.

However, Scott Rick believes that “things” are underrated. The assistant professor at the University of Minnesota co-authored a trailblazing study titled “Neural Predictors of Purchase” in 2007.

Recently, he started dedicating his time to finding neuro-scientific evidence to shake off the question whether “retail therapy” is just plain silly.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photo: Scott Rick

How did you come up with the idea of looking into the psychological benefits of shopping?

The standard economic view is that if someone’s buying something, they must be getting some consumer surplus out of it.

That being said, there is a lot of academic thinking that claims people don’t understand their willingness to pay and that they make a lot of mistakes in terms of buying. In the press, “retail therapy” has a pretty bad reputation. It didn’t seem to me as if these claims were based on any scientific research. So I started looking. The psychology of emotion is relevant in this context.

According to studies, sad people feel overwhelmed by external circumstances, mainly because their world is out of control.

Making choices has been found to help restore a sense of control.

Can shopping have a positive effect?

Yes. Shopping is all about choice. We ran experiments during which we made people sad by making them watch a super sad film. Then we gave them an opportunity to either shop or just browse. The shoppers got over their sadness a lot quicker. It didn’t even require a lot of money. In our experiment, however, shopping didn’t help 117 style in progress

against anger. So shopping isn’t a cure-all in terms of feelings, but it is a cheap, fun way to address sadness.

How can stores induce or increase happiness?

Stores can help to make choices.

I think whatever one can do to make people make purchases that they won’t regret would be one aspect. And sales are like good Prozac. People can feel like they’re over the moon because of sales. Also, flattery is a lot more effective than it should.

Even with so-called tightwads?

Oh, they are chronically stressed. In general, a tightwad feels too much pain when paying. Right now, we are trying to find out where that comes from.

What can one do to make tightwads loosen up a little?

For the moment at least, reframing the purchase as small seems to help, as does framing it as an investment in future health and productivity. It also helps to allow them to pay with something that is less cash-like, such as credit cards or their phone.

You found out that paying can cause pain. How about the other way around? Does a higher price make a sweater look better?

Price can bias our perceptions of quality. There is all kinds of

evidence for that. Painkillers are more effective when you tell people that they cost more.

People also solve more wordbased puzzles after one has led them to believe that they are high-priced. So both can happen. The price might make me admire the sweater more and perceive it as super high quality, but it can also prevent me from buying it.

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110 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

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WHAT'S THE STORY 111 FUN

We Need Top Performance!

It all starts with the order.

The aim is to plan the new season in joyful anticipation of exciting collections and new discoveries at trade fairs and in showrooms. In the best case, these screenings manage to really warm our hearts. In the context of the fashion industry, the buying process should be nothing less than the emotional climax. It should be the most wonderful moment that - on top of it all - contributes quite significantly to the success or failure in terms of sales.

Nowadays, there is, however, a string of factors that may darken the mood. For example, we are witnessing an increasing amount of regulations and minimum order specifications on the supply side. These can in some cases - lead to fairly lazy compromises and - more often than not - to more write-offs.

Brands that shift their focus to their own stores after it took years to establish them in the multi-label sphere of the retail industry are also a contributing factor. And let’s not forget the fast-paced growth of the online sector in a fast-changing market. “The fact that some retailers have lost their sense for fun is a consequence of the highly competitive situation we all find ourselves in today”, says Andrea Canè, the creative director at Woolrich. “Modern consumers

Buying is the supreme discipline of the retail trade and the perfect product range composition will be even more crucial in the near future.

It is therefore all the more important to ensure that the order process is an enjoyable duty. However, it seems as if fun has fallen to the wayside over the last few seasons.

How can we regain that fun element?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

have an incredible range of choices, not only in terms of products, but also in terms of quality, price, manufacturing, and - last but not least - where they can buy. Due to the ascent of e-commerce, the retailers no longer merely compete with each other in the same city, but also on an international level.

Naturally, this increases the pressure even more.” Everything is available everywhere in all price ranges. This, in turn, highlights how assimilable fashion has become. Is that Zara? Or could it be Chanel? It’s becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish, mainly because the low-cost segment has gained significant ground.

Escape Comparability

Kasper Frauenschuh knows the business from the ground up. Today, he not only sells his own luxury collection to 100 hand-picked retail customers worldwide, but also manages a multi-label store in Kitzbühel.

The latter opened its doors to the public in 1974. He didn’t merely witness the golden years of the luxury segment with Prada, Gucci, Dolce e Gabbana, and Issey Miyake, he actually helped form that particular era.

“These designers changed the world, especially in the 1980s and the early 1990s. It was easy to sell fashion back then”, the Austrian fashion expert says.

“Every collection had its own strong claim and was incomparable in its own way. The people didn’t want anything else.”

Then the individual collections began to expand. Suddenly they included high fashion, perfume, or even dog collars. “We retailers watched this development from the sidelines for too long.

We here in Kitzbühel believed that customers in holiday mode would still open their wallets even though they already attended the first clearance sale in a Prada store in November”, Kaspar Frauenschuh explains.

“Even today, we don’t stand a chance if the renowned online shops are supplied with a collection 14 days earlier than us.”

Kaspar Frauenschuh applied the emergency break and chose to follow the path that leads away from comparability. “We only saw an improvement in business once we said good-bye to a number of large luxury brands.

That step gave us our freedom back and also increased our liquidity.” The most important factor is, however, that Kaspar Frauenschuh has shifted his focus back to the values that once made him strong. “We don’t need to have 1,000 different items from every collection; we only need the top performers.

I need those strong pieces. If I have the bag that performs best in terms of sales, I certainly style in progress 117

112 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

don’t need a whole range of other bag models that I didn’t ask for and don’t stand for. As soon as a collection becomes too expansive, it is no longer of interest for me.”

Focus

If you want to stand out, you need to focus. Gabriele Mensing has also recognised the significance of this motto for her own business, Baltzer Moden. “That makes it more exciting again”, she says. “Even the brands should refrain from trying to cover all bases and increase the focus on their respective target groups instead. That makes them all the more credible.” Her fashion store in the tranquil city of Marburg is located in a 200-year-old building that used to house a drugstore. The antique furniture combines

Kaspar Frauenschuh, owner of Kaspar Frauenschuh Kitzbühel: “We don’t need to have 1,000 different items from every collection; we only need the top performers.”

with new fashion impulses to create a particularly unique flair. “Customers calm down in our store. They actively seek interaction and are interested in learning about fashion, trend scouting, cashmere production, and how yarns are dyed”, Gabriele Mensing explains. “For me personally, a brand requires a narrative. If we want to sell life attitudes, we need to be 117 style in progress

able to live them too. However, I sometimes sense a lack of information and transparency in the showrooms. Quite frankly, it is unacceptable that customers especially in the luxury segment - are expected to pay high prices without knowing why.”

Likewise, the industry should offer the retail trade more support, for example in terms of subsequent deliveries. Gabriele Mensing: “We retailers often need to react swiftly. When goods are no longer available, consumers don’t understand why they can still buy them online on a B2C level, while retailers cannot obtain the goods on a B2B level. Action needs to be taken in this respect.” For her, the best way to do business is by establishing partnerships with particularly flexible small businesses with closely linked design and sales departments.

Kaspar Frauenschuh has defined a number of requirements for his store; all collections on his sales floor need to meet these requirements. “The companies have to be family-run with a selective and exclusive distribution concept for products that are authentic in terms of design”, Frauenschuh reveals. “Ecological aspects and animal welfare - for example in the wool production industry - are also more important to consumers than we in the fashion industry believe.

In addition, the clothing has to meet our high standards of comfort and quality. The working conditions in and the location of the production plants are also an essential factor for us. That has to do with respect for all human beings. Once a collection meets all aforementioned criteria, both sides can have real fun. However, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find such special suppliers.”

Gabriele Mensing is an advocate for more openness within the cooperation of retailers and suppliers. “The sales departments should approach us in the time

André Berger, owner of Handstich: “When everyone puts all their eggs in all baskets, then I have to start asking myself whether the path everyone is taking might just be the wrong path for me.”

between the trade shows too. I expect a certain curiosity for the needs of the customer”, Mensing points out. “This is also about the exchange of ideas, but the sales departments are often too inflexible in this respect.” She also wishes for more honesty on both sides. “If a collection doesn’t perform convincingly for a season, an open discussion in a face-to-face meeting is important to me. This is essential if an agent, for example, tells me that he’d like to supply a different retailer in the same city. Dishonesty doesn’t benefit anyone. If, on the other hand, he takes the time to listen to what I have to say closely, then I may decide to try a new collection - not least because it makes it easier for me to trust him.”

uct development process. We focus our attention on the people who wear the brand. In order to achieve this, brands and retailers should re-intensify their dialogue and fight for commercial success side by side. We work in accordance with these principles with some of our retail partners in different formats. To this end, we actively contribute by, for instance, acting as a fashion profiler and curating a customer’s product presentation concept or shop window on any given Saturday. We also offer product training. At the same time, we also want our retailers to sell our product with the same passion we showed while we developed it.”

André Berger, the owner of Handstich, is equally concerned about the dialogue with his retail customers. “Honesty and authenticity in terms of brand and product statements are also particularly important for the retail industry. It requires a retailer’s commitment to the collection and it requires courage.

Both are ultimately rewarded”, André Berger argues. “Once a retailer offers a distinctive product range, even customers notice that they cannot purchase the same everywhere else.” In

Dialogue

The jacket collection G-Lab was launched by Björn Gericke six years ago and focuses on its own distinctive character. “New experiences, individual product ranges, and emotional involvement are what consumers really want”, Björn Gericke explains.

“That’s what we, as a brand, concentrate on during the prod-

Gabriele Mensing, owner of Baltzer Moden Marburg: “In the multi-label business, brands need competition to remain alive.

I particularly enjoy creating tension by mixing brands.”

114 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

the context of Handstich, Berger has experienced at firsthand how damaging copies can be. “Why does the retail trade succumb to plagiarized products? The market has growth limits, yet everyone seems to look for what they can copy from others. It’s pointless, especially as both appearance and design language of a Bentley would never work for a Skoda.” This also applies to the over-supply of organic cotton. “There is much more supply in the market than is technically possible”, André Berger stresses. “If everyone wants to get involved, they don’t only steal volume from others, but also harm the market. They are subsequently co-responsible for the further depreciation of the value of fashion.”

André Berger counteracts recent developments by focusing on innovating his collection within the brand’s inherent DNA. “It makes me happy when people acknowledge the fact that we are not copyists, but have developed our own design language instead. I particularly appreciate retailers who take the time to take an in-depth

Björn Gericke, owner of G-Lab: “It is important for us that the retailers trust us and are willing to go forward together. This gives us all the courage to try something new. We’re in this together.”

look at our concept despite their tight schedules at trade shows and in showrooms. It’s also very rewarding when they support the development of the brand.”

Handstich has been in business for almost five years and currently collaborates with approximately 240 carefully selected retail partners. “The business has become incredibly challenging, but I still see great potential when retailers and brands show the courage to team up and make bold statements based on commercial diligence.”

Statement

Andre Canè, creative director of Woolrich: “We want to create clothing that has value. This rule applies to every single item. Without this high standard, we would hardly be able to satisfy the increasing number of customers.”

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Sonja Rogger-Furrer, who runs Phänomen stores in Lucerne and Baden, makes such bold statements in the men’s and women’s fashion segments. The family business is managed by herself and her husband, Fritz Rogger. Only recently, her two daughters, Marina and Laura, have taken over responsibilities within the company too.

“Our daughters have a different approach to the buying process; their new angle is refreshing for the business”, says Sonja Rogger-Furrer. For example, they ordered Anine Bing and Puma by

Rihanna. Both collections have made a surprisingly good start in the stores. For the Roggers, the greatest pleasure is to buy.

“To this end, I organise veritable trend trips. I try to make sure that we stay in new, trendy hotels and eat in newly popular restaurants”, Sonja Rogger-Furrer reveals. “It’s a pleasure to pass on this inspiration to our daughters and employees. Our customers benefit from it.” For the proverbial view beyond the horizon, the Roggers maintain friendships with retailers from Switzerland, Germany, and Austria. “We give each other pointers. It’s always a very open exchange”, Rogger-Furrer says.

An exchange of such a nature is - in her view - equally important in the showroom during an order. “We want to be treated by the agencies like we treat our customers in the store. This also means that the respective agents should show an interest in what our store looks like and what works well for us.” Sonja Rogger-Furrer makes sure that she only buys what she knows she can sell.

Minimum budget requirements make sense to a certain extent, not only to guarantee a brand a specific number for production, but also to become a convincing asset within a multi-label store.

“A minimum order can be quite positive and stimulate growth, providing the customer consents”, says Andrea Canè.

If, however, the minimum order is a rigid demand, then many traders perceive it as no longer contemporary. Sonja Rogger-Furrer has, for instance, decided not to deal with minimum budget requirements anymore.

“If we discuss the topic openly, it is normally well-received and we manage to implement our desired budgets through mutual agreement”, she stresses. Should this not be the case, she tends to have a plan B stashed away in the back of her mind to avoid becoming too dependent and

having to act against her own gut feeling. At the end of the day, the numbers need to add up. By the end of March and by the end of September respectively, at least 50 percent of the womenswear needs to be sold.

That’s a self-imposed benchmark. “To achieve this, the delivery dates must guarantee that we have sufficient time to sell the products at a regular price”, Sonja Rogger-Furrer explains.

Freedom

Thus, having fun again means

Sonja Rogger-Furrer, owner of Phänomen Lucerne: “The work we need to do for our store can only be done if it’s fun and enjoyable.”

working on differentiation and creating freedom and leeway.

“Trying new things and experimenting are central elements of having fun. It’s the only way something special can be created”, says Andrea Canè. “More emotion during the buying process certainly wouldn’t do any harm”, Björn Gericke agrees.

“Naturally, one needs the breadand-butter business, but where would the great brands be today if the retail trade hadn’t had the courage to buy them back in the day?”

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116 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

“Fashion Isn’t Mathematics!”

Matthias Moser, who represents the third generation of his family’s fashion business, is the general manager of Föger Woman Pure.

Föger Woman Pure is among the most influential multi-brand players in the premium segment. As such, the business is well-known far beyond Austria’s borders.

Matthias Moser, who ascended to the helm of the company in 2015, sat down for an interview to discuss current market movements and how important the willingness to take risks in terms of buying remains today.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photo: Föger Woman Pure

Mr. Moser, putting together a product range is the most enjoyable task of a retailer.

Nevertheless, one sees an increasing number of miserable faces at trade fairs and showrooms.

I believe the reason for this is that these visits have - over the years - become more demanding in terms of time and cost. One can sense that the pace has increased, mainly due to the influence of the vertically integrated businesses and online retailers.

Many retailers are trying to keep up, but I don’t think that’s the solution to the problem.

This is driven by the fact that the volume of goods in the respective markets has increased even more, not least due to demands such as minimum orders.

These demands are often not commercially viable for retailers.

In addition, there is a lot of pressure to buy in all categories.

If we perceive it as unrealistic to sell all these products, then we prefer to take a step back and say no. It can’t be beneficial for the brands either when the retailers are ultimately forced to offload the goods at reduced prices.

Which other aspects drain the fun from the buying process?

The order dates continue to drift apart. The order rounds for the autumn-winter season now start early November. Even the more expansive delivery windows can only be described as drastic, which makes supply 117 style in progress

chain management more difficult. Furthermore, information about fashion is released into the market through influencer marketing - propagated by the brands - much too early. There is very little to get excited about when everyone already knows what will be in the stores in February as early as October.

For example, we love buying from Dries van Noten. The brand has one collection per season with a normal rhythm and reasonable delivery times.

Also, its fashion isn’t ever-present in the media. By the way, we are also more than happy with The Row, the collection by the Olsen twins. It supplies an excellent product that -among other reasons - works because we are given a certain amount of leeway and the various regions are not overextended in terms of distribution.

Word on the street is that you enjoy being a little more daring in terms of buying.

I definitely do. I believe that it is our duty as an innovative multi-label retailer. We shouldn’t present the same collections all the time. One third of our order time is dedicated to the screening of new collections and young designers. Finding up-and-coming and promising brands is the most fun you can possibly have!

Head or gut - which of the two is the decisive factor?

I’d opt for the so-called gut feeling. Fashion isn’t mathemat-

ics, even though it is based on numbers.

How can we return to having more fun?

More goods and more delivery rhythms don’t result in more success or an increase in customer satisfaction. We have never had to face so many dramatic changes in such a short time; the classic retail trade is struggling to adapt to these changes. We must rise to the challenges by offering excellent customer service, professional advice, and in-store experiences.

We invested immensely in our store in 2011 and launched our online shop last year. We always have additional plans, but these additional steps are not definite just yet. A shopping spree needs to be a social event; it needs to be an inspiring experience and the retail trade has to set the stage for the customer! To this end, we retailers need to nail our colours to the mast and fight for our freedom rather than accepting all order demands. If a number of retailers choose such an approach and act accordingly, the market may normalise a little too.

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118 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

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WHAT'S THE STORY 119 FUN

More Fun! Shopping out of necessity is yesterday’s news. Today, the fashion business is an integral part of the entertainment industry. Measuring an experience per square metre has become more important than measuring revenue per square metre. But how can customers be entertained? And how can we ensure they experience the moments of happiness they crave?

Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Interviewees.

Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

Fancy having a glance at an excerpt of the entertainment programme of the retail trade? “Anson’s” organises “lad’s nights” in its branches. That includes events such as sitting in BMWs, testing your skills in a Playstation tournament, and staging a table football tournament with Chris Marks, the reigning World Champion of the sport. They are, however, not the only company attempting to lure their customers into the shop with entertainment. The list of activities includes tango dancing, sailing, snowboarding, kart racing, designer interviews, concerts and readings, swap events, autograph sessions, and a live tattoo studio. The agenda of stationary retailers strongly resembles the programme of a regional magazine. However, some rules do apply when dealing with your respective target audience.

A proven approach is a healthy mixture of service, events, and - last but not least - a certain level of exclusivity. It’s all about generating short-term attention in order to secure a long-term community following. This is where the industry can learn from others. Both the catering and hotel industries have a common guiding principle: “Customer first!” Our industry should really take a leaf out of the book

of such dedication to customer focus. The retail trade has - quite simply put - focused on selling the product itself for too long.

It’s all about that “feel-good moment” that surprises in terms of presentation and a sensational fragrance in the store, as well as the special attention paid to the customers. These factors create a shopping happiness that one does not encounter on a regular basis and sweeps customers off their feet to - for a moment or two - experience a completely different world. Let’s not forget that customers are willing to pay more for the whole package than for a boring product.

Pure Entertainment

There is a reason for the string of alternative shopping concepts that have emerged of late. In Düsseldorf, the two young entrepreneurs Tugçe Çakir and Ninja Benkelmann have established a format known as “Pop-Up Now Festival”, which picks up on two trends at the same time: a market place that consists of more than pure product presentation and a temporary showroom character. The concept itself is easy enough to explain. Over the course of two days, they assemble a colourful range of local and international fashion labels, accessories, and lifestyle

products that can be purchased on location or ordered. “We enjoy discovering products that we don’t know and not everyone possesses”, Tugçe Çakir explains.

“We strive to present these products in a special atmosphere.”

The last two times, they were guests of the communication agency Grey’s “Place of Ideas” event. In this case, there are two partners who benefit from each other. Both parties are all about customer communication and creativity. As the term “festival” suggests, “Pop-Up Now” focuses on the entertainment angle, with appetisingly arranged street food and an open-air concert in the evening. The festival was attended by no less than 3,500 guests. It certainly seems to have hit a nerve within the shopping community.

Rule Number One: Stay at the Scene

“The current trend suggests that one should organise events where the goods are on display and to link them with additional content”, says Alex Iwan, the owner of Düsseldorf-based agency Textschwester. She organises numerous press events for stores such as Breuninger, Karl Lagerfeld, Calvin Klein, La Martina, and Fashion Net Düsseldorf e.V.. “As a customer, you can style in progress 117

120 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

Alexandra Iwan, Agentur Textschwester, Düsseldorf: “At the end of the day, the focus needs to be on the customers and their experience. However, many stores still pursue a strategy based on a frontal assault in terms of advertising. In my opinion, that approach is mega-out.”

Tugçe Çakir, Pop-Up Now Festival, Düsseldorf: “We enjoy discovering products that we don’t know and not everyone possesses. We strive to present these products in a special atmosphere.”

touch, try on, and buy products right away. It also makes sense to invite a star guest, who can either be a celebrity or a designer who explains the collection.”

This is an approach taken by, for instance, Tommy and Vanessa Baroni-Wieler, whose agency, Another Souvenir, focuses on accessories. They plan targeted events on-location together with their retail partners. “We afford people an opportunity to customise accessories in the store”, says Tommy Wieler. Customers can, for instance, have names or statements engraved on mobile phone covers by the likes of Wood’d and take them home straight away. “It was an awesome event. You can’t reproduce that online in this shape and form”, Tommy Wieler gushes.

“We are trying to push such events at our retail partners. It is important to differentiate and it is entertaining for the customers.

Ultimately, it helps the retailers to optimise the sale of the products in question.”

Rule Number Two: Surprise Elements

The principle of winning over a customer in the course of an event is applicable in the case of Karl Reyer in Hallein. The company launched its 300 square metre “Reyer Lab” in May 2016.

“We had an area that we needed to reassign, mainly because it didn’t yield the results we expected. That’s how we came up with an idea of utilising the space in question differently”, he explains.

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Karl Reyer, Sport & Mode Reyer, Hallein: “The idea behind our lab is to tell new stories on a regular basis. The format was launched in May 2016 and we fill it with a new experiment every four to six weeks.”

“The idea behind it is to tell new stories on a regular basis. The lab was launched in May 2016 and we fill it with a new experiment every four to six weeks”, Reyer adds. The space is not always dedicated to fashion, but also to other lifestyle themes - always differently and unusually presented, gladly also in cooperation with external partners. This could be a skiing story with the Black Crows, the visual presentation of an “Indian Summer”, or the history behind the white shirt designed by Lis Lereida.

The latter even produced a film on the topic. Reyer is happy to reserve the lab for projects that involve art and culinary delights.

“This is a challenge, no doubt.

Not a single day passes without talking about it. You have to be on the alert constantly. Entertainment, the products, and the means of communication have to be on song all the time.

Every single employee needs to be motivated to pass on the background story and contribute to our company’s success.”

Rule Number Three: Exceed Customer Expectations

Especially in the premium segment, many retailers are facing customers who are well-informed and whose levels of expectation have risen over the past few years. “The demands of customers and consumers have increased thousand-fold”, Alexandra Iwan confirms. “The retail trade certainly offers a lot more events

than they used to and there is more action on the sales floor.

Consequently, this heightens expectations in terms of content.

There isn’t a single event without photo promotion, stuffed goodie bags, or excellent food that seduces customers. It doesn’t necessarily have to be champagne either. Generally speaking, customers appreciate everything done with love.” However, champagne was an issue when Engelhorn organised a gourmet festival for its customers in Mannheim in October. It took the retailer no less than six months to prepare the event involving 10 star chefs and 40 top-quality vintners. “First and foremost, such an event requires a good idea, but it is equally important to address the right target group and to - last but not least - allow for sufficient preparation time for all involved departments and external partners”, says Mario Porst, the head of marketing at Engelhorn Group. He personally enjoys “events that bring people together in a special atmosphere and happenings that link different topics such as fashion and gastronomy.” Obviously, not every store can organise an event on this scale, but it does highlight what’s at stake. The goal is to create customer frequency through attention and entertainment.

Rule Number Four: Know Your Customer

“The product itself is becoming increasingly interchangeable”,

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Bernd Deuter, Reischmann, Ravensburg: “The stationary retail trade has the unique opportunity to charge products emotionally.

We strive to pursue this approach actively.

Product, service, and atmosphere need to collude.”

Mario Porst, Engelhorn Group, Mannheim: “We particularly enjoy events that bring people together in a special atmosphere and happenings that link different topics such as fashion and gastronomy.”

says Bernd Deuter, the head of marketing at Reischmann.

“However, the stationary retail trade has the unique opportunity to charge products emotionally.

We strive to pursue this approach actively. Product, service, and atmosphere need to collude.

From the shop window to the POS, we strive to tell ‘stories’ and trigger emotions. An important tool within our arsenal is our customer database, which we have maintained fastidiously over many years, which we utilise to appeal to our customers directly, and which allows us to invite them to our events in a highly targeted manner.” Within his business, he is - alongside an event manager - responsible for a string of promotions. One of the most elaborate is an exclusive fashion show for approximately 400 to 500 customers. Deuter believes that evening events are especially important in terms of customer loyalty. “During these events, you want to try on items in peace, shop a little, and have a good time with your friends. It should be a real shopping experience in a relaxed atmosphere.

This is what makes customers happy.” Even in everyday life, the Reischmann branches have established themselves as a meeting place at their respective locations. “We want our guests to feel great and we try to lure them in with small gestures such as macaroons or an espresso. In the cities we have a presence,

Franziska Kuczmera, Bleibtreu, Berlin: “At the end of the day, everybody needs to find the ‘language’ that suits themselves and their stores best.”

we have become an important starting point for a shopping trip.” One needs to know one’s community very well in order to seduce them with special promotional activities. “The target audience and an according guest list are paramount”, Alexandra Iwan agrees. “Another important factor is a consistent coverage before, during, and after the event.

Ultimately, you need to make sure that your event is the talk of the town.”

Rule Number Five: Live With Your Community

This rule is particularly important when you are new to a city.

The Sailor & Harbour store in Bremerhaven opened its doors to the public in March 2016.

Its product range, consisting of men’s fashion and tailored products, needs to attract attention in the coastal city. This is the responsibility of Max Pohl, the company’s head of marketing.

“As a first step, we organised a Segway tour through the harbour in the evening. Everyone enjoyed that and - ultimately - that’s what customers remember.” The store organises an event every three months. These events can range from a beer tasting with a local brewer to more elaborate happenings. Next spring, Sailor & Harbour is planning a sailing trip on a restored two-master named “Ella” - once again only for a hand-picked group of customers and opinion

leaders. “Exclusivity is generated by covetousness. At the end of the day, we want our customers to feel ‘special’ when they are invited”, Pohl adds.

Franziska Kuczmera, who has created a loyal community for her Bleibtreu store in Berlin’s Wilmersdorf district, also believes in the power of individualism. “Why should I not inject my private ideas into the business? I have an excellent network, come up with ideas, and elaborate on them.” In this case, we are talking about many small puzzle pieces spread out over the year: a tango evening, readings, the calendar shooting, a colour consultation, or an advent exhibition. These may not be particularly spectacular promotions, but they are always perfectly in line with the target audience. Kuczmera stresses that close contact is vitally important to her. This is reflected in her motto: “I am always only as good as my customers.” Over the years, her customers have rewarded her courage and ideas with regular visits and a willingness to buy. “My approach only works because they are willing to follow the path I chose with me. Their loyalty has paved the way and will continue to do so”, she explains. “At the end of the day, everybody needs to find the ‘language’ that suits themselves and their stores best.”

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122 WHAT'S THE STORY FUN

“This Store is Like a TV Show” With a healthy dose of humour and a sufficient pinch of self-irony, Christoph Tophinke perceives Chelsea Farmers Club, his Berlin-based fashion store, as a well-made TV show. This view is not exactly surprising given the trained men’s tailor’s background. Following his training at Hamburg’s “Schauspielhaus”, he worked for TV stations and TV production companies for many years.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photo: Chelsea Farmers Club

The cuts, price structures, and look of your collections have hardly changed over the last ten years. Is that the secret of your success?

We are not here to please everybody. That’s impossible to do anyway. When wearing our suits, you can get into your car with the buttons fastened and simply drive off. Try doing that while wearing a suit by Tom Ford.

When it feels right you need to act, act, and act some more.

And if you’re not sure, you hit the wall - what’s the worst that can happen? All the expectable elements and product ranges that have been compiled by Excel spreadsheets can be bought en masse everywhere. It is, in all respects, vitally important to have something unexpected hidden somewhere. It doesn’t matter whether the unexpected element is the product, the store, or an event. It’s always about promoting passion, curiosity, and the idea that something really special could happen at any minute.

Your claim “British Society Fashion, Travel Luggage, and Gin” sounds very serious, but your fictitious branch in Timbuktu suggests that you’re having a lot of fun here.

It wouldn’t work any other way.

When I opened the first store, I had no idea what I was getting into. However, I realised very quickly that German retailers need to complain. If they don’t complain, then they’re apparently doing too well. I really don’t enjoy complaining and it’s quite easy to stir things up a little. That’s why we have always been a little rougher and have always shot from the hip. Sure, some things didn’t work out as planned, but that really doesn’t matter at the end of the day.

People found out fairly quickly that we stock great tuxedos and suits. Actually, word spread quickly enough to almost make me dizzy. One usually hears that it takes at least ten years and a lot of money to establish a brand - that’s complete nonsense! My belief is that you simply need

to pull a few of the right levers.

It turned out that it is even easier to do in Berlin. This store works like a TV show. If I turn a few dramaturgical screws, the audience reacts. I am not talking about lighting concepts or shop window decorations, but about inspiration instead of dusty, grey mass products.

Am I right in saying that music is an essential part of the Chelsea Farmers Club concept?

That’s right. Freddy Fischer and Friedrich Liechtenstein are - for want of a better term - our court musicians. Freddy is also my drums teacher, by the way. He is - more or less - the successor of El Kartell, the twelve-man house band of Bar 1000. They used to play in our store in “Veteranenstrasse” and during our annual double-decker bus tours.

Freddy Fischer and his band have no problem whatsoever with playing on the top deck of a bus driving through Berlin with a diesel unit right behind them. They also play in our store at every opportunity. And Friedrich Liechtenstein has - quite simply put - come up with some incredible work. He’s been featured on the TV channel Tele5 for quite some time now.

The first issue of the CFC customer magazine received the Lead Award and was honoured by the Art Directors Club. What’s the story behind the soapbox derby team?

The (alleged) soapbox derby team and its manager Christoph Tophinke (kneeling front left) photographed at an ironic opportunity to show artist Friedrich Liechtenstein in a tuxedo.

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I set up the customer magazine together with our graphic artist, a mate from Madrid who wrote all the copy, and an illustrator who was 16 years old at the time. The photo with the soapbox racer happened because a photographer - who is a friend of mine - said that we should inform customers about our move to the new premises two blocks down the road. The soapbox

racer was initially only there for decoration purposes. We don’t have a soapbox derby team.

However, a renowned vodka brand picked up the image and hung it up as a city banner on “Alexanderplatz” for four weeks - two metres high and ten metres long. They also used it on posters that went up here in the Schöneberg district and at the large construction site at the Treptow Towers. The visitor count of our website exploded and some people actually came into our store to ask whether one can buy those carpenter coats.

How does Chelsea Farmers Club differ from others in terms of customer communication?

We don’t take ourselves too seriously and like communicating with our tongues in our cheeks, so to speak. Sometimes it isn’t unimportant to dole out a kick in the knee too. It’s not only about treating people well, one also needs to give them very direct guidance. Equally, one needs to work really hard to stay in contact with customers. Six years ago, we started with no more than a small newsletter.

We sent it out whenever the fancy took us. We only included a few photos and reviews of events we had organised at first, but then we started publishing news quite regularly. When the newsletter didn’t go out because someone fell ill, I received quite a few e-mails from people who literally demanded the newsletter. I had never experienced anything like it. That’s slightly absurd, is it not? But it also proves that people really like what we are doing and encourages us to continue treading the small path next to the main road.

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“This is a Great Opportunity for Stationary Retailers!”

How can stationary retailers offer their respective customers a truly fulfilling shopping experience? This is one of the questions that Thomas Etz, the CEO of the creative agency Mavis, Marina von Morr, his head of business development, and Natalie Horn, a consultant at Tailorit GmbH, face on a daily basis. The aforementioned companies teamed up with other partners to launch the exp37 experience store in Düsseldorf. It promises its visitors a fun factor that is literally off the scale.

Interview: Ina Köhler.

Photo: Mavis GmbH

In this store, customers are confronted with a plethora of digital tools: interactive shop windows, smart mirrors, price tags that change at the touch of a button, and interactive information stations that tell product stories. From your personal point of view, what are the most decisive fun elements within the modern retail environment?

Thomas Etz: I believe that stores should be all about inspiration.

The product itself hasn’t been the focal point for quite some time. Instead, it’s about individuals and how to communicate with them. However, one - at some point - loses all emotionality and fun for the customers when all stores are the same. In this case, I merely have a need that I can also satisfy online possibly at an even better price.

Why do customers often perceive online shopping as more fun?

Etz: As a rule, online retailers know a lot more about their respective customers and can, as a consequence, provide them with offers that seem more appropriate. Even online retailers have recognised that one has to invest in emotionality and customer experience. That’s why they’ve opted for showrooms, because it’s so much easier to make a brand tangible for customers on location. Unfortunately though, there are very few people who show an interest in them on the sales floor. In the past, retailers didn’t invest enough in their staff.

Etz: The retailers in question will have to shift their focus in the direction of showrooms; the online and offline world are merging. The customers want to buy where it feels best for them.

The stationary retailers need to approach these customers differently. This begins with creativity in terms of presentation and reaches into the field of personnel management, as well as promoting a special product in itself. This is a great opportunity for stationary retailers.

How can one create such positive experiences?

Horn: In principle, one needs to start from scratch. The goal should be to exceed the expectations of your customers. The way this can be achieved is very individual and depends on the respective target group. Digital tools can be very useful to, for example, learn more about your customers and to create tailor-made background stories.

Which digital touch-points you experience during the so-called customer journey and which information or services you may require at a certain point in time, depends strongly on your respective store. One always needs to evaluate this on a very individual level.

Marina von Morr: One needs to know the target customer very well and adapt accordingly. The customer wants to be perceived

as an individual. This used to be the case in the small boutiques we know from our past. The salesperson knew the customer well enough to say: ‘I was thinking about you as soon as I saw this piece.’ Exclusivity has always fascinated people, regardless of their social standing.

Is that enough though?

Etz: Interaction is one of the most important factors in this respect. It’s great to enter a store and to be constantly surprised by what’s on offer. The hotel industry has become quite proficient at this, to be fair. As a rule, a hotel will greet me by name. That’s where my customer journey begins.

Horn: And that is the key to success. After all, a loyal customer will not base a purchase decision on a price, but on how good he or she ultimately feels while making said decision.

Creating experiences is the credo of Marina von Morr (left, Mavis), Thomas Etz (Mavis), and Natalie Horn (Tailorit).

Is there, nevertheless, still a future for stationary retailers?

Natalie Horn: First of all, I need to answer this question with a resounding yes! However, stationary retailers need to learn from online portals especially in terms of customer information - and adapt to their respective clientele.

Which role will stationary retailers play in the future? Will they be a mere showroom or a discount area?

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Furla. GLOBAL PLAYER Luxury bags at an affordable price - there aren’t many companies that meet this demand as effortlessly as Furla. The Italian brand celebrates its 90th birthday this year.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Furla

The focus is on colours and imaginative prints, in new shapes and in combination with an often unusual material mix. “Experimental design is engrained within Furla’s DNA”, says Fabio Fusi, the brand’s creative director. “Every product is unique with a special design. We strive to surprise our customers anew every season.”

The Path to a Lifestyle Brand

At Furla, Fabio Fusi follows in the footsteps of a 90-year tradition, which is essentially based on exploring new avenues of business. In 1927, Aldo and Margherita Furlanetto founded a leather production company in Bologna. The Italian city remains the headquarters of the family business until today. In 1955, the company opened its first retail store in the centre of Bologna. In the early 1970s, the founders’ children - namely Giovanna, Carlo, and Paolo Furlanetto - presented the first range of accessories bearing the Furla logo. It was characterised by the courage to consider playful designs utilising the latest manufacturing methods.

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markets in the 1980s. Thus, Furla has developed into a lifestyle brand that can be purchased in 418 mono-brand stores, has more than 1,200 points of sale in the multi-brand retail trade, and operates its own online shop. Furla’s strongest export market is Japan. The country appreciates Italian style, which is proven by no less than 72 Furla mono-brand stores. Furla generates more than 80 percent of its revenue abroad. In 2015, Furla Group generated sales of 339 million Euros and, in the first half of 2016, it exceeded the result for the corresponding half-year of 2015 by 28 percent.

Furla is growing within a difficult market environment. One reason for this is that Furla, in its capacity as a well-established brand with a rich heritage, relies on craftsmanship and high quality standards - not least due to its own operations near Florence, where most Furla items are manufactured. Furthermore, the brand constantly invests in its employees, stores, and marketing/communication measures.

Furla is a family business that has managed to strike a balance between tradition and modern management. This includes keeping a keen eye on developments, as well as reacting swiftly to new trends and needs, in a very dynamic market.

Creative Cultural Heritage

Alongside general manager Alberto Camerlengo, Giovanna Furlanetto is not only still the CEO, but also the spirit and soul of the group. The creative

heritage of Italy is especially close to her heart, which is why she founded the Furla Art Award for the support of young Italian artists in 2000. This led to the development of the Furla Foundation, which was launched in 2008 and is also run by Giovanna Furlanetto.

The latest coup is a collaboration with Milan’s Museo del Novecento. It consists of a variety of new projects under the artistic direction of Peep-Hole, an art institute in Milan. The collaboration of the museum with a private foundation and an art institution has dedicated itself to the contemporary art scene. The first projects are scheduled for September 2017.

Fabio Fusi’s challenge is to lead the creative heritage of Furla’s collections into the future. He has been responsible for the brand’s accessories and footwear lines since 2010. In addition, he also shapes licensing lines such as eyewear, textiles, and watches. He is very passionate about the products and also has a wealth of experience from previous career stations at the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Cartier, Etro, and - most recently - Salvatore Ferragamo.

At the latter he was responsible for men’s and women’s bags, as well as the footwear collection.

Fabio Fusi describes Furla as a unique premium brand that has managed to remain faithful to its price segment despite its high standards. For example, the retail prices for bags of the spring/summer 2017 collection range from 140 to 590 Euros,

while shoes are priced between 160 and 310 Euros. “We offer incredible products at very competitive prices; I believe that is one of the main reasons for our success”, Fabio Fusi argues.

“This is a segment that many fashion brands aspire to, but we have a great head start due to our corporate roots.”

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Furla’s design language is experimental. The brand offers excellent quality at affordable prices.

Fabio Fusi, the creative director, is tasked with leading Furla’s creative heritage into the future.

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Packing parcels for Zalando: Tip Tap Kinderschuhe of Weilheim is one of the ten first retailers of the longtail category to participate in the test phase.

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“Many brands are failing to generate mobile business traffic for their respective apps. For smaller retailers, this is an insurmountable barrier with regard to being found in the app store”, says Jan Bartels, the vice president of Zalando’s logistic products division.

Zalando. LOGICAL AT SECOND GLANCE Zalando has decided to allow bricks-and-mortar retailers to profit from its online traffic in order to improve the handling of its own storage risks. This approach could actually work.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.

Photos: Zalando

Up until a few months ago, it seemed unthinkable that Zalando would consider teaming up with stationary retailers.

Engelhorn, a tradition-steeped retailer in Mannheim, joined the Zalando partner programme mid-December. The collaboration started in the ski and snowboard sector and will be expanded to include the entire existing product range.

In order to explain how this collaboration offer, which seems logical upon second glance, came about, Jan Bartels, the vice president of Zalando’s logistics products division, speaks a little more verbosely than usual: “In the past, we only sold branded goods and stored them in our own warehouses. Seeing that our site started generating more

and more traffic, we started our partner programme with currently more than 170 participating brands such as Adidas, Mango, Hallhuber, Superdry, and the Bestseller Group. This programme is now in effect in nine of the 15 countries in which we operate. In those countries, we primarily utilise the traffic. We no longer have to buy, store, and pre-finance every product ourselves. Back then, it was the first step on the journey from being a pure online retailer to transforming into a platform.

This resulted in discussing the topic of integrated commerce last year. Stationary stores, such as the Adidas flagship store or the Bodycheck branches here in Berlin, were embedded deeply into our IT landscape. We know their respective stock levels at any given time and know which products - including their colours and sizes - they have in the stores. This allows us to predict with a high certainty that we can sell those products to our customers and affords us the opportunity to - limited to Berlin - offer ‘same day deliveries’

and ‘rush deliveries’. The latter mean that the desired purchases reach the customer within the next hour.”

Additional Sales

In order to be able to offer this service Germany-wide in the future, Zalando started a test phase involving smaller retailers from the long-tail category last October. The long-term perspective is to offer the service in all markets. The participating retailers don’t even have to invest large sums in this open-ended experiment. Zalando offers a comparatively uncomplicated process connection via the widely-used Gaxsys system. The system delivers orders to the smart phones and/or tablets of the retailer in the morning, at noon, and in the evening. The retailer in question can then decide whether he or she wants to, for instance, sell the shoes at the requested price for Zalando without having to disclose merchandise management or personal data to Zalando. At the beginning of October, Zalando started collaborating with ten

German shoe retailers, among them Tip Tap Kinderschuhe from Weilheim in Bavaria, Schuhhaus Fischer from Esslingen, and Schuh Nißl from Markt Indersdorf. But what are the motivations and advantages for owner-managed stores to participate in the co-operation project? Alfons Nißl, the owner of Schuh Nißl, manages a shoe store located approximately 40 kilometres from the centre of Munich. The business was founded by his father in 1963.

He argues: “It allows us to reach customers we would never come in contact with, which means that we generate important additional sales. After all, an increasing number of regular customers have stopped visiting us, mainly because they have more choice online. Today, I can only maintain our large product range consisting of more than 50 brands in our stationary store because we have also been selling via Amazon for the last six years. Since then, we have been able to offer much more in terms of fashion, which also benefits the customers of our stationary style in progress 117

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store. There is less risk attached to the goods and we are less likely to have high write-offs.

Collaborating with Zalando is uncomplicated, even though everything is still synchronised manually. If we didn’t co-operate with the online platforms, we couldn’t maintain the store anymore.” Taking into account the ever-growing volume of mobile shopping via apps on smart phones and tablets, smaller retailers are well advised to act as mere fulfilment partners and to leave the investment in range increases and personnel-intensive IT solutions to others. This reduces the risks connected to participating in the online business quite considerably. The only remaining risks are the 100-day return guarantee and the shipping costs. Customers return their shoes directly to the retailer from whom they received the parcel. Packaging and printed labels in the uniform Zalando look are supplied by the Berlin-based e-commerce giant.

Zalando doesn’t deny that this model is - to a certain extent - targeted at reducing its own stock risks and return rates.

Jan Bartels: “More than ever, the issue of today is to promote the right offer at the right time.

Online or stationary? Customers make this decision spontaneously and in a differentiated manner. We have already started exploring the paths that will shape the future of the retail industry.”

Corporate identity: retailers such as Schuhhaus Fischer ship their products in Zalando-branded packages.

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The Experiment An opinion piece by Stephan Huber The first field test of collaboration between Zalando and regional stationary retailers is an extremely exciting experiment. It harbours great opportunities and equally great risks.

Let’s look at the opportunities first. From the moment that the long-standing “evil spirit” of the specialised retail trade utilises its system to afford partners in the immediate vicinity of the ordering customer a “right of way”, the store in question could experience an increase of customer frequency. It goes without saying that many online shoppers will take advantage of the possibility to circumvent systemic problems within the ordering process, especially when they realise that the product they desire is waiting for them around the corner (without obligations) in a store they might actually already like.

In the ideal case, the store visit results in corresponding follow-up sales. At the very least, it results in an opportunity to provide convincing advice and service.

If one pursues this train of thought, Zalando - of all companies - could contribute to the revitalisation of city centres and shopping streets.

Vice versa, stationary retailers can supply customers with an item that may not or no longer - be in stock in the desired colour or size in a simpler and more efficient manner than is possible with most current offers. The Berlin-based e-retailer not only supplies the necessary tools, but also - and more importantly - the appropriate logistics. When describing the theoretical ideal case, this could lead to the exchange of bottlenecks and surpluses in a cycle.

To achieve such positive effects, it depends on how Zalando defines the term “partnership”. The only way to establish a network with the required density is to ensure that all partici-

pating retailers are truly satisfied with the model. For many potential partners, the existing “Integrated Commerce Initiative” will have to be adapted accordingly. A successful store, which already is an established brand in its region and in the eyes of its target group, will have little interest in sending out parcels with Zalando branding.

Let’s turn our attention to the risks. Critics warn that Zalando is ultimately only interested in spreading its enormous storage risk over as many shoulders as possible.

And this warning is not unfounded. Without doubt, this was - and still is - one of the more significant intentions. Nobody should assume that altruistic motives prevail. What is more concerning is the tremendous additional influence that the company would gain if this model gains momentum. This power shift would affect suppliers and competitors, but - ultimately - also participating partners and consumers.

However, this influence is already shared by very few online players anyway. In comparison to the likes of Amazon and Alibaba, Zalando is nothing more than a small fish in a gigantic ocean. I have a fun fact to share in this context, even though it may prove to be less funny at second glance. On Singles’ Day 2016 alone, Alibaba generated almost grotesque revenue of 16.3 billion Dollars.

This power concentration which doesn’t only apply to the online retail trade - is a challenge for policy makers. Zalando’s step into the realms of physical experience, or - as I myself describe it - into the zone of heart development, is, on the other hand, a challenge for the entire fashion industry.

There are opportunities and risks to be taken into account.

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Oliver Feske (3rd from left) and Thomas Goetz (4th from left) run the P4 agency together.

P4. THE FULL PACKAGE Now more than ever: in times when others prefer to think smaller, Oliver Feske has decided to make a real statement of intent by moving P4, his fashion agency, to a new location that allows him to present his portfolio on 1,100 square metres.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: P4

The new showroom is located in a listed brick building, a former garrison hospital from imperial times. The inside of the building was gutted and extensively renovated, but with respect for the old building structure and a sense for the right mixture of retro and modern. They removed linoleum from tile mosaics and exposed red brick walls - this is where

the enthusiasm for details really shows. The result is a cool backdrop for the portfolio of Oliver Feske’s P4 fashion agency. The premises allow him to present his products adequately on a total of four floors.

The portfolio includes, for example, fashion labels such as RVLT, Herschel, the Danish brand Minimum, Zanerobe, and Kings of Indigo. In addition, there is a large concept area, which puts fashion in context with non-fashion items. This is, so to speak, the centrepiece of the agency. It showcases products from brands such as Dr. Bronner’s Biocosmetics, organic schnapps by Storch Manufaktur, retro lamps by Bolich, earphones by Happy Plugs of Sweden, and shelves by Noodles Noodles & Noodles. “We don’t

want to offer clothing only”, says Oliver Feske. “This is all about a lifestyle in its whole entirety.”

A café with a food area within the showroom has proven to be a perfect fit and is also intended to act as a sales concept for retail customers.

Look and Feel

It becomes quite clear that Oliver Feske and Thomas Goetz, his partner with whom he founded the agency in 2005, are no longer merely focusing on fashion distribution in the classical sense. In addition to the concept idea, they strive to offer the retailers a comprehensive marketing package including promotion, social media consulting, web design, and online strategy. To this end, Oliver Feske perceives himself as

a networker. “We want to bring people together and encourage them to work together as partners. We establish contacts with shop-fitters or PR agencies”, explains Feske, who has, in the past, acted as a sales strategy consultant for businesses such as Igedo Company and Trigema.

Is the investment in the new showroom a risk? It sure is, but it is a calculated one. Oliver Feske believes that the investment is actually nothing short of a necessity. “We want to position ourselves for the future by focusing on advice and lifestyle”, he says. “I am inspired by what stores such as Excelsior Milan or Poketo L.A. do. I believe that fashion retailers need to offer more excitement these days. We, as an agency, want to support them in this respect.”

P4 Marketing GmbH Färberstrasse 136 40223 Düsseldorf Textile labels: Kings of Indigo, Minimum, Monkee Genes, RVLT, Zanerobe Accessories labels: among others Brooklyn Soap Company, Donkey Products, Emma Lomax, Functionals, Gestalten Verlag, Gooring Bros, Happy Plugs, Herschel, Kerbholz, Moleskine, Noodles Noodles & Noodles, Storch Manufaktur, Taschen Verlag www.p4marketing.de

Look and feel: Agentur P4 is committed to a conceptual approach. Thus, it not only offers fashion, but also a range of cosmetics, stimulants, furniture, and electronic gadgets.

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The Freitag brothers, Daniel and Markus, thoroughly enjoyed the five years it took to develop the F-abric textile collection.

“A slightly composted pair of trousers is anything but sexy, but it makes people talk about us”, says Markus Freitag.

Freitag. “I LIKE HAVING PROBLEMS” Tinkering is the Freitag brothers’ favourite pastime.

Despite running a company with 160 employees, Daniel and Markus Freitag refuse to shy away from open-ended experiments. F-abric, a new clothing collection, is a perfect example.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold.

Photos: Freitag

“It still feels a little like we’re in the room we shared as children. My brother and I simply made what we didn’t have.

We have preserved our somewhat playful approach to this day. We’ve capitalised on that approach in our company. I like having problems as the starting point for a development. I then take pleasure in working, trying, and even failing. This is the only way that ensures future development”, Markus Freitag explains. Much of this self-awareness is reflected in F-abric, a new textile collection.

It is entering its third year. The collection is non-seasonal and highly meticulous in terms of environmental compatibility and sustainability. You probably have to be Swiss to understand this level of meticulousness. A little “greenwashing” simply wasn’t enough for the brothers.

F-abric replaces ecologically questionable materials such as cotton with European materials such as hemp and linen. Processing, dyeing, finishing - all areas of the production process were evaluated closely. Even the sewing threads that are considered industry standard were replaced with proprietary developments.

The buttons can be unscrewed, by the way. After all, all items are fully compostable. “Cradle-to-cradle is our claim”, Markus Freitag points out.

Understanding Product Depth

Up to five Freitag employees worked on this vision for no less

than five years. They suffered setbacks on a regular basis.

“When we were ready to start producing the hemp/linen fabric, which replaces the cotton denim material, at a German linen weaving company, the latter filed for insolvency.” What may, at first glance, seem like a classic “Return to Start” situation, turned out to be one of the many positive detours that make a story worth telling, especially when one wants to explain what makes F-abric so different to both consumers and retailers.

All the more so in the case of retailers, because the complex production process and the brand’s Swiss roots result in a considerably lower margin. “In turn, this makes it easy to identify the correct business partners”, Markus Freitag muses. The almost seventy retail partners who already enjoy selling F-abric are first movers of the highest order. “We know that we can’t change the world with our prod-

ucts, but we’d like to think that we can get something started nonetheless. As a small fish with the concept of utilising recycled materials for bags, we created a wave of similar products. This competition benefits us, because it inspires us to always be a little bit better than the others.” There is, however, more than enough potential for further development without the competition having to step in as motivators.

“We would like to manufacture jackets made of our fabrics.

They should stand up to a heavy rain shower. This is the logical next step. However, we are still failing in terms of coating. Even if one utilises beeswax, you still need a solvent…” It sounds like that is yet another one of those problems that the brothers enjoy solving, don’t you think?

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132 WHAT'S THE STORY

Gloria Paulon, the daughter of founder Ermanno Paulon, is responsible for intellectual property, brand protection, and online sales at Ape & Partners, the parent company of Parajumpers.

No, imitation is not the sincerest form of flattery: the jackets by Parajumpers - and many other brands attract counterfeiters.

Parajumpers. “CRIMINALS KNOW HOW NOT TO GET CAUGHT” Parajumpers’ fight against counterfeiting is not merely a matter of considerable resources, it is also a veritable tilt against windmills. The loopholes that are constantly opening in today’s global market make it almost impossible to prevent illegal trafficking. In this interview, Gloria Paulon explains why the Italian company doesn’t even consider throwing in the towel nonetheless.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Photos: Parajumpers

Product counterfeiting has become an epidemic problem in a digital and global economy. It has turned into an almost existential problem for companies and brands.

How and to what extent is Parajumpers affected by this problem?

We started fighting this phenomenon back in 2012. I remember that we - by chance - discovered a website that sold counterfeit Parajumpers jackets, as well as products of three or four competitors. At the beginning, we didn’t even realise that they were fake jackets! We could never have imagined that this would merely be the first incident of a seemingly endless battle. I can reveal that, up until now, he have identified a few thousand Internet domains, of which we managed to shut 117 style in progress

down a few hundred. I can also confirm that, even today, 90% of the problem for Parajumpers is caused by products offered online.

What possibilities does a company have when dealing with counterfeiting and the distribution of counterfeits?

The nature of the fight against counterfeiting has evolved quite significantly over the last five years due to a continuous development of innovative solutions that were, until recently, unthinkable. I personally believe that, in order to maximise the results of all these efforts, it is necessary to take action on several fronts and to rely on specialists in terms of each individual activity.

Can you paint us a picture in this respect? How and at what levels does Parajumpers take action against product piracy?

For example, we utilise software that monitors the network and have teamed up with a law firm that has its own in-house digital office for timely and more difficult operations. The latter assists us in the cleaning of the SERPs, the persecution of the most difficult cases, and the prevention and retrieval of Internet domains. In addition, we collaborate with an organisation that handles custom seizures and the destruction of counterfeit goods in transit.

However, we need to add measures directed at consumers to all the aforementioned actions.

In fact, we strive to offer our customers the most simple and intuitive tools to allow them to identify the legitimacy of a dealer before making a purchase and the authenticity of an item once it has been purchased. To this end, we will start working with Certilogo from the winter 2017 collection onwards.

We want our customers to know that we are not only aware of the problem, but are investing all our energy to ensure that we can protect them from such products.

Can the financial cost of these activities be quantified?

What is the economic damage caused by counterfeits in the case of Parajumpers?

It’s difficult to determine the economic damage caused by the trade in counterfeit products across the globe, mainly because we would need to know for sure how many purchases are made by consumers who are aware of buying fakes and how many purchases are made by unsuspecting consumers who would rather buy the real item instead.

In addition, it is difficult to establish a method to quantify the damage to the brand itself caused by the circulation of low-quality products.

On the other hand, it’s fairly easy to calculate the cost of

these activities for the company.

In our case, it amounts to approximately 1% of total sales.

Is the legal framework sufficient?

I think the real problem lies in the legislation of the countries where these counterfeit products are manufactured. In China, it is basically impossible to identify the relevant production facilities, not to mention the exorbitant costs of potential legal action. The Internet is also not sufficiently regulated in this respect; there is still too much freedom to operate, it’s still too easy to hide behind fake identities, and it’s still too simple to avoid penalties. There is also not enough co-operation among major players in this respect.

What do you expect politicians to do? Are they aware of the problem at all?

More than a matter of awareness, it’s a matter of timing.

Criminals know how not to get caught and they are extremely quick in reacting to any action from our side, whether it is by changing an IP, setting up new sales channels, or finding new support in terms of logistics.

Until we have defined the fastest standard legal procedures, I have the feeling that it will always seem like we are running after them without catching anyone.

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Knowledgeable salespeople enjoy their work more. Dfrost’s Christoph Stelzer and Nadine Frommer based the development of “My Helpdesk” on the aforementioned principle.

Dfrost.

HELP YOURSELF Knowledge is power - even more so if salespeople of the stationary retail trade strive to advise their customers competently. The “My Helpdesk” tool allows them to playfully amass ideas and information quickly. The developers are the retail specialists of Stuttgart-based Dfrost.

Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Dfrost

Every salesperson is familiar with the situation where a customer proves to be an expert for a certain brand. The self-proclaimed expert is not only wellversed in the product itself, but can also relay the stories behind the prices and capsule collections, as well as the entire brand history. “Nowadays, salespeople are often inadequately trained.

This means that they don’t have sufficient knowledge about the product range and, for example, are unaware of how key items can be combined and present-

ed. They are not aware of the idea on which the advertising campaign is based or can’t answer questions about the origin of materials”, says Christoph Stelzer, the co-owner of Stuttgart-based agency Dfrost.

Consumers have never been as informed as now due to digital transparency. Shows, collections, visual merchandising concepts, and background stories are easily accessible. At the same time, the complexity of collections, brands, and products in the stores is increasing. Customers want to be approached at an emotional level. For this, they need competent conversation partners who can communicate the brand world. “The themes knowledge, inspiration, and sales personnel have been on our agenda for quite some time”, Christoph Stelzer reveals. The “My Helpdesk” platform is designed to assist the staff in filtering the essentials from a wide range of information.

The digital, multilingual platform is both carefully and playfully tailored to meet user needs.

The tool is characterised by the modules “Knowledge”, “Training”, and “Inspiration”. Style guides, video sequences, and brief explanations help salespeople in terms of collections, campaigns, and brand DNA. In short, it offers assistance in all communication matters. “This ranges from small talk topics to brand facts”, Stelzer adds. The platform allows the inclusion of brief explanations in terms of handling orders and returns, visual merchandising concepts, and capacity management. The whole application is designed as a kind of social network; it can be operated intuitively via a tablet or smart phone. “This means that it doesn’t even need a ‘permanent desk’”, says Nadine Frommer, the co-owner of Dfrost. “My Helpdesk” is scheduled to launch mid to late 2017. The agency gained

valuable experience with a tool of this kind that it developed for Leica. During the development of the new platform, Christoph Stelzer paid close attention to a more emotional interaction with sales personnel: “Brands spend a lot of money to reach consumers, but nobody really tries to inspire employees anymore. ‘My Helpdesk’ is a tool that strives to inspire and inform.” The ultimate goal is more fun and motivation on the sales floor. An individual who knows more can tell more stories. At the end of the day, this is beneficial for all involved parties.

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134 WHAT'S THE STORY

Canadian roots promise quality: Nobis brings together high-performance textiles and a keen sensibility for fashion.

Nobis. HIGH PERFORMANCE AND FASHION Nobis of Canada stands for a fashionable and urban interpretation of highly technical outerwear for men and women. From this season onwards, the Premium Brand Group is the brand’s sales representative in Germany and Austria.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Nobis

Hailing from Canada is a kind of quality guarantee for an outdoor brand. The country’s harsh climate ensures that locals know what high standards outerwear must meet. This “rule” also applies to Nobis. The brand was launched in Toronto by Robin Yates, who was the vice president of Canada Goose for many years.

High Performance

Ten years later, Nobis can be purchased in more than 40 countries across the globe, including Norway, Sweden, Italy, Spain, Holland, and Switzer117 style in progress

land. The list of well-known retail partners includes the likes of Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Matches Fashion, and Galeries Lafayette. The quality of the collection is an essential success criterion. The utilised materials meet the highest standards; they are both robust and soft to the touch. Highlights are “Crosshatch”, a delicate - yet tear-resistant - fabric, and a wool/polyester blend with an earthy look.

In addition, the jackets and coats for men, women, and children are membrane-coated with Sympatex, which makes them windproof and waterproof (water column of 10,000) without losing breathability. This is not the end of the special features list: all pieces also boast an inner padding made of finest Canadian down. The down chambers of the inner jacket (between the outer fabric and the lining) are of different sizes and filled with various down weights, depending on where they are located.

This increases the comfort for the wearer and ensures that no down feathers can escape. The zippers are made of lightweight plastic and can be opened both ways. Furthermore, the jackets are fastened with magnets that are concealed in a strip.

Suitable for Urban Environments

This level of functionality is usually found in outerwear that is designed for use in mountainous areas. It is rare in a collection that, in terms of style, is aimed at trend-conscious city dwellers. The jackets and coats for women, for example, not only include sporty-elegant variants such as parkas, but also more ergonomic silhouettes. The look is clean and characterised by subtle details. The hoods are detachable and - upon request the jackets and coats come with real or fake fur. It is also possible to purchase items without fur trimmings. The colour palette

includes light ice shades, red, and blue, as well as brown and black. The retail prices range from 600 to 1,400 Euros with a calculation factor between 2.7 and 2.8.

Erika Palese is thrilled to have added such a promising brand to her portfolio and is looking forward to working with Nobis over the coming seasons. “The outdoor trend is particularly strong, which is why I see enormous potential for Nobis in both Germany and Austria”, she says. “Only very few collections in this segment offer what Nobis is all about: high-performance materials combined with a high fashion level.” The new collection will be showcased at the Pitti in Florence and at the Premium trade show. www.nobis.com, www.premiumbrandgroup.de

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Lars Braun is the face of the 04651/ brand.

A collection that is self-explanatory: it offers everything a man needs for a weekend trip.

04651 /.

VALUE FOR MONEY This men’s collection is both casual and groomed. It is easily comprehensible and impresses with an outstanding price-performance ratio.

This is the ambition of 04651/ - no more, no less.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold.

Photos: 04651/

It may be a paradox, but only at first glance. Someone who - even at 35 degrees Celsius - appears at the Pitti Uomo in a suit and tie, has made it his task to redefine leisurewear for discerning men. Those who know Lars Braun, are aware of his weakness for excellent taste.

However, that doesn’t mean his collection is devoted to pocket squares and cufflinks. 04651/ is the epitome of groomed casualness. The collection offers jog pants, knitwear, jersey shirts, knitted bermudas, jackets, and much more. Due to the wealth of experience he gained in his stores in Hamburg, Lars Braun was able to create a stringent collection together with his

brand manager, Matthias Garske. “A Trip in a Bag” - the collection’s subtitle - is self-explanatory. “It is exactly what you need for a weekend in a resort like Sylt, The Hamptons, or Kitzbühel. However, the items also work in an urban environment.”

The label’s main pillars are quickly explained. It strives to supply good products in “not overly agitated colours” at transparent, comprehensible prices in non-exclusionary sizes. The brand has a rich background story and manufactures its items in Europe. That’s the gap that 04651/ is so eager to plug. “We did things we could not find in any other collection on the market.” The brand did not bow to short-term trends, but offers solid essentials that every man would be happy to add to his wardrobe. According to Michael Brockmann and Malte Kötteritz, the evil term “basics” is never used when customers view the collection. The two fashion experts run Heritage Agents, the fashion agency that was appoint-

ed as the label’s distributor mid2016. “One instantly recognises the retail background; this is an important USP”, they say with conviction. It was clear right from the start that the project, which started off as a small capsule collection, would also enter the wholesale segment. “One cannot manage such quantities alone. And what’s good for oneself, cannot be bad for others”, says Lars Braun. He immediately clarifies: “I do things properly.

I enter the field to win.” The list of customers includes household names such as Oger, Lodenfrey, Daniels, Hasardeur, and Schmitt & Lair.

A sleek overhead, marketing costs that remain within bounds and unconditional professionalism are paramount. “We all know brands that offer wonderful products, but still fail to offer a well-photographed look-book, even after ten seasons.” As a perfectionist, Braun is demanding in terms of story, brand appearance, and the product itself. “One needs the right international ‘addresses’ in order

to establish a label credibly.” A contract with an important multi-brand showroom in New York was signed a long time ago. The collection can also be viewed and purchased in a showroom in Milan. “While I spent half a night assembling our trade show booth in New York, I asked myself why I am putting myself through this. The answer is very simple. I really enjoy it.” www.04651-sylt.de

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136 WHAT'S THE STORY

“We manufacture our shirts within the same processing parameters as renowned Neapolitan manufacturers. Nevertheless, an Edward Copper shirt remains a North European shirt. With very few exceptions, our shirts are priced below 200 Euros in retail.”

- Hilke Blömeke, founder of Edward Copper

Edward Copper shirts are characterised by a love for craftsmanship and a modern look.

Edward Copper.

PRODUCT WITH A BACKGROUND STORY It’s the small details that turn a shirt into a perfect shirt.

This is the self-imposed benchmark of Hilke Blömeke and her Edward Copper collection, which she launched in Reutlingen in 2012.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Edward Copper

Hilke Blömeke learned about the shirt topic from scratch and developed a passion for creating men’s shirts during her training in the 1980s. “For me, a shirt is so much more than an accessory”, she argues. “It is a non-seasonal product and can change an outfit completely.”

Hilke Blömeke spent many years of her career in the field of product range development at well-known companies such as René Lezard. “I lived near Milan for a few years. That’s where I learned that it’s not 117 style in progress

important to own many things, but to own carefully selected items of a certain value and inherent sustainability.” In 2014, Hilke Blömeke translated her sustainable approach into her own label. With Edward Copper, she launched a men’s shirt collection that doesn’t focus on controlling or technical refinements such as easy ironing.

“Edward Copper is all about the man who wears the shirt”, says Blömeke. “That’s why I started thinking about what really matters. Which details and criteria are really decisive in terms of wearing comfort? And which details are mere luxury?”

Edward Copper shirts only utilise soft insets and labels, as well as rounded and sealed buttons that facilitate unbuttoning and buttoning the respective model.

In addition, the label exclusively uses high-quality materials

sourced in Europe. It attaches great importance to a particularly delicate seam pattern, as well as a modern cut with a slim silhouette. To achieve better fits, the shirts are cut in individual sizes with torqued sleeves.

Hilke Blömeke’s collections serve a very specific need. This is proven by the success of the Edward Copper shirts in her concept store, which is located in the same building as her studio in Reutlingen. This is where she also offers collections such as PT 01 and Harris Wharf to create a homogenous brand environment for Edward Copper. “Those who come to buy a shirt, come back once they are convinced by the fit and wearing comfort”, Hilke Blömeke says.”This is the greatest compliment for us.” This not only applies to her store.

After five seasons in business,

Edward Copper boasts no less than 42 points of sale and has a string of well-known fans who appreciate the label’s quality and authentic background story.

The list includes retailers such as Sagmeister, Lodenfrey, Different Sylt, and Abseits. Two seasons ago, Edward Copper launched a collection of women’s blouses under the name Edelle by Edward Copper. It translates the guidelines of the men’s line into feminine styles. According to Hilke Blömeke, the women’s range enjoyed a promising start.

The retail prices for shirts range from 149 to 229 Euros, while blouses cost between 149 and 349 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. www.edwardcopper.com

WHAT'S THE STORY 137

Hand-crafted in Italy - which other premium sportswear brand can still lay claim to such a heritage? No wonder that Brooksfield highlights this USP with pride.

Fratelli Fila, the new owner of the brand, boasts more than 100 years of tradition in the textile industry and specialises in premium sportswear.

Brooksfield. SPORTSWEAR MADE IN ITALY The new owner of Brooksfield, namely Fratelli Fila, is realigning the brand with a modern design language.

The promise is “Made in Italy” competence at the best price-performance ratio.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold.

Photos: Brooksfield

When Fratelli Fila, which is also the owner of the brand Valstar and the Italian distributor of Gant, acquired Brooksfield two years ago, it soon became clear the brand was heading for a re-launch.

Fratelli Fila is perfectly placed to give Brooksfield new wings. The group has more than a hundred years of history in the textile industry. Its headquarters are located in Biella, right in the centre of one of Italy’s famous know-how clusters. In defiance of outsourcing trends, Fratelli Fila retained its in-house competence in terms of raw materials

and fabric production. The company also boasts its own cut pattern department and specialised product design teams for polo shirts, shirts, trousers, knitwear, sweat wear, and outerwear. In terms of production, Fratelli Fila utilises - as is customary in Italy - small contract manufacturers.

Given this expertise, the group has everything it needs to lend Brooksfield a new, modern appearance. “We want to position the brand in a contemporary manner, thereby expanding and rejuvenating the target audience”, says Matteo Princiotto, the export sales manager. This approach has already yielded results in Italy, where Brooksfield has more than 400 retail customers.

Fly, Duck! Fly!

The export business is about to follow suit, especially as the willingness to invest is there. Fratelli Fila’s ambitious repositioning project is support-

ed by measures such as a new advertising campaign, a new web presence, and the participation in trade shows abroad. In the German-speaking market, the collection will be showcased at the Premium in Berlin. “We can formulate a unique offer.

Despite commercial pricing, our entire collection is manufactured in Italy. This ‘Italianitá’ is reflected in the sophisticated design of the products. Be it knitwear, shirts, or trousers, we convince with discerning quality and modern design”, Matteo Princiotto argues. “Our clear positioning in the premium sportswear sector has received great feedback from retailers.

Many of them have looked long and hard for a collection that can represent this world credibly at reasonable prices.” The duckling will soon soar. This is also the opinion of Ben Botas, whose fashion agency, Ben And, acts as the agency for the German-speaking areas. “The

brand convinced us immediately. The strategy is spot on, the positioning is perfect, and the professionalism of the parent company is impressive.” One of the many service aspects is that there will be - in addition to the two pre-order collections - a stock programme that is already defined at the time of the order. This allows customers to re-order via a customer service unit that speaks German. “The family business is managed by the third generation. Today, it is dynamic and agile. The average age of Fratelli Fila’s 180 employees is under 40 years”, Matteo Princiotto explains. “We have ambitious plans.”

Agency DACH: Ben And GmbH, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.323080 46, agency@ben-and.com, www.brooksfield.com

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138 WHAT'S THE STORY

The new guy - in his capacity as COO, Bernd Keller is responsible for design, production, marketing, and licensing at Marc O’Polo. He is “incredibly proud to be here.”

The proven guy - CEO Alexander Gedat is happy to welcome a new colleague to the management board of the premium brand.

Marc O’Polo. “WE NEED TO BE EDGIER AGAIN” At the ripe age of fifty, Marc O’Polo seems more thoughtful than the successful company needs to be. The main reason for this is that Bernd Keller, the new COO, was given the task to analyse the brand from an unbiased view and to make it fit for the future.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Marc O’Polo

He is a returnee, like so many who, after their first spell in Stephanskirchen, are eager to explore the world, only to find out that the supposed tranquillity in the Bavarian village wasn’t that bad after all. Bernd Keller, the new COO for design, production, marketing, and licensing, follows in the footsteps of someone who Marc O’Polo owes a lot to: Andreas Baumgärtner contributed significantly to the value of the brand during his 16-year tenure. Continuity may have been his greatest strength.

However, continuity needs to be 117 style in progress

broken from time to time. Marc O’Polo, despite all its reliability, cannot allow itself to fail “to surprise its customers. We need to be edgier again. We need things that may rub some people up the wrong way”, the new board member explains. Bernd Keller was a product manager at Marc O’Polo between 1992 and 1998. A catalogue from that time makes an appearance during the interview, mainly to offer an impressive example of how faithful Marc O’Polo has remained to its brand values.

“I can see that we have a brand core that we maintain. Modernity and honesty can, for example, be seen as core values that were valid then and remain valid now. At the same time, I can also see what we are lacking today: the desire to explore new territories, the ability to keep up with the market and trends, and the courage to simply say no from time to time. We need the freedom to say: ‘This is who we are.’”

Listening Closely

During his first weeks at the company, Bernd Keller enjoyed the freedom to question everything - without an agenda, deadlines, and processes. It soon became clear that two aspects were particularly important: communication and timing.

“The great thing is that we have a flexible operation with the right people in the right places.

This means we are more than capable of considering all angles as to how we can implement our visions. Is the distribution of responsibility within the creative teams and the operational department still correct? Or should we opt for self-responsible units that operate within the respective collections and refresh our range independent of seasons? I am not talking about mere flash programmes, but products that result from a truly holistic re-thinking process. I asked myself whether I really need to tie down the entire design and development

capacity of our company to the traditional ‘pre-main-pre-main’ rhythm, or whether I have sufficient capacity to weight the collection differently. The latter aspect might allow me to react to demand with a certain level of freedom.” Bernd Keller believes that product communication needs to be broken up into veritable fragments.

“Product, communication, and point of sale - all three pillars need to communicate the DNA of Marc O’Polo simultaneously.

Nonetheless, they also need to offer surprising elements. In this respect, offline and online operations need to act in concert. To this end, I need to know precisely about the story of the season, the monthly ‘hero’ products, how they are presented, when products are launched online, and how they are presented. We need both: the story for a whole season, but also a fresh monthly menu, so to speak. But before we can achieve that we have to ask ourselves quite frankly:

WHAT'S THE STORY 139

What does the customer want?

Which customers are we talking about - an irrational, trend-driven early adopter or a need-based customer?” Marc O’Polo has found a way to find out exactly that by engaging with test groups. Direct feedback is high on the list of Bernd Keller’s priorities.

Dare to Make Incisions

Everyone in Stephanskirchen is aware of the fact that the new orchestration of communication and goods consignment requires a change in terms of established seasonal regularities. Bernd Keller: “In a way, we strive to counteract the established market. This doesn’t mean that we are caught up in a revolutionary spirit that makes us believe that we can change everything alone. In this context, it’s all the more important to know what the customer wants. On top of that demand, we can add the monthly product heroes, which - as per their definition - need to be characterised by innovation.” Initially, these changes will be tested and established in the brand’s own retail units.

Alexander Gedat, the CEO of Marc O’Polo, adds: “We have to implement our plans in our own stores and then - once we have results to show - approach our wholesale partners. This process has, in part, already begun by withdrawing budgets from early delivery dates and shifting them to later delivery dates. This is inevitable if we want to combat irrationalities such as reduced Bermuda shorts in June or the thick jackets that hit the stores way too early every year. The greatest difficulty, however, is to establish a needs-

based quantity of goods and to coordinate said quantity more efficiently in terms of timing.

Naturally, we are aware of the fact that this practice promises profitability in the long term, but it is - at first - a fairly bold incision. However, we need to accommodate a decline in sales to remain truly future-oriented.

We aim to compensate partially through higher contribution margins, but complete compensation is impossible. In the long term, a reduction in terms of goods quantity is the only way to increase the contribution of non-reduced goods to our revenue.”

Marc O’Polo is equally eager to inject more efficiency within its fashion collection. “A collection cannot be reduced by 20 percent from one day to the next, but we strive to introduce more stringency in the development phase. We are aiming for a smaller main collection, seasonal NOS topics, and short-term programmes that - at best - can be sold without offering specimens and scheduling showroom appointments. In addition, we’d like to introduce a programme consisting of classics that can break seasonality. It certainly can’t be in line with the needs of the customers if we reduce blue chinos in summer only to add them to our winter programme in a marginally different colour shade”, Bernd Keller argues. “At the end of the day, consumers still enjoy buying. They especially enjoy buying fashion that offers innovations and can be worn longer.”

The self-imposed task is to retain Marc O‘Polo‘s values without forgetting to allow for a certain element of surprise.

Shot by none other than Peter Lindbergh: Lara Stone and Mads Mikkelsen in the Marc O’Polo anniversary campaign.

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140 WHAT'S THE STORY

Wormland in Nuremberg spreads out over 1,600 square metres in the premises in which Hans Rudolf and Gerhard WÜhrl created quite a stir with their Carnaby’s concept exactly 50 years ago.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 141

Wormland. IT REMAINS IN THE FAMILY Under the umbrella of Ludwig Beck AG, Wormland is destined to be successful with both its tried and tested brand core, and a new concept. The first step is marked by the opening of the new store in Nuremberg in the old premises of the once successful Carnaby’s department store.

Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Wormland

During his last years of school in England, Hans Rudolf Wöhrl became fascinated by the “Swinging London” of the 1960s. Inspired by John Stephen’s Carnaby Street, he decided to introduce the English style to Germany. In 1966, he teamed up with his brother, Gerhard, to open Carnaby’s, a multi-brand department store, in his hometown Nuremberg.

It quickly became the Mecca of young fashion enthusiasts. Fifty years later, Hans Rudolf Wöhrl’s son, Christian Greiner, wants to re-write the success story in the building in which Carnaby’s became such a sensational success by luring fashion-conscious men into the new Wormland store. For Greiner, who has been a management board member at Ludwig Beck since 2010, the development of the company is also a chapter of his family’s history. After all, his father is the majority owner with a 75% stake in the business. Last but not least, the retail trade is engrained in Christian Greiner’s DNA, especially as his grandfather’s Rudolf Wöhrl AG, which is now owned by his cousin Olivier Wöhrl, co-defined the German fashion retail industry for decades.

Since the takeover of men’s fashion specialist Wormland

by Ludwig Beck AG, the latter now has a nationwide network of multi-brand stores for men

in prime urban locations. In the course of the restructuring measures following the acquisition, Ludwig Beck AG decided to close a branch in Oberhausen and the online shop in order to make the corporate structure of Wormland more efficient. “We acquired Wormland because it has a very strong brand core that we will continue to develop in a contemporary manner. The online platform didn’t work at all as it was. It simply didn’t communicate the claim and the unique experience of the stationary stores. That’s why we decided to focus on branding and establishing private labels.

Nevertheless, we will keep an eye on the e-commerce side of the business too”, Greiner says.

Relevant in Terms of (Family) History

The grand opening in the former Carnaby’s premises is not only a reflection of the family history in question, but also a first step on the road to expansion.

“The store in Nuremberg is an evolution of the innovative and unique Wormland concept. It is aimed at offering a multifaceted experience that not only consists of fashion, but also of unusual architecture, sound worlds, fragrances. We strive to surprise customers at all times. At the same time, we want Wormland to polarise and even provoke.

This isn’t a ‘democratic’ concept in terms of tastes”, Greiner adds. As in the stores that are performing well in Berlin, Frankfurt, and Hannover, the Stuttgart-based architecture firm Blocher Blocher Partners has realised a concept that is characterised by grey screed and concrete, an abundance of metal elements, industrial piping, and geometric neon structures that create a cool masculine, urban, and elegant ambience. The store

Christian Greiner established Wormland in his family’s hometown.

It’s a welcome challenge for the management board member at Ludwig Beck AG, the parent company of Wormland.

strives to be as exclusive and nevertheless - accessible as Carnaby’s used to be in its heyday.

On 1,600 square metres, which are spread out in individual style worlds over three floors, men can explore topical style areas.

The store covers all segments from work to leisure wear and from sports to home wear. A so-called multi-lane cross-merchandising system defines the path through the shop. “These comprehensive concepts are particularly successful due to the fact that they offer an alternative to fashion-conscious customers who feel that traditional department stores have become too boring, but also don’t want to be forced into being too trendy”, Greiner says after working with Wormland for a year.

Lifestyle Instead of Department Store

The Nuremberg branch shifts the focus of the business back to a certain life attitude. In addition to launching the second Wormland perfume (“Identify Your DNA”) on location, the store has also introduced the brand’s first tailoring department, in which customers can choose colours, fabrics, and cut patterns for made-to-measure suits. Furthermore, it offers a personal shopping service in separate rooms. The co-operation with Hammer & Nagel, a Munich-based men’s manicure specialist, is yet another newly introduced feature. Greiner believes in such co-operations: “We want to increase our number of co-operations with strong partners who have the potential to enhance the Wormland experience. This is a new concept in terms of the typical department store experience and collaborating with competent partners strengthens us.” Another success story is the focusing process: “In

the future, we want to increase the focus on Wormland as a brand and not merely utilise it as a platform for other brands. To this end, we need a more pointed selection of fewer brands and need to offer fewer options. This allows us to highlight our core competence. We should really only stock brands that stand for product quality. If a brand performs well in only one product category, then we should really only stock items from that particular category. On the other hand, we are working hard on the reorientation of our private labels, Wormland and Autark. Our two private labels allow us to offer trendy products with an excellent price-performance ratio in a strong brand environment.” Greiner hopes that the private labels will allow Wormland to compete with vertically integrated retailers. In his opinion, a proprietary brand can - and must - be more than merely an entry level in terms of price and a means for improving margins. Such a brand should be an opportunity for differentiation from the competition and should sharpen one’s own brand DNA. “I believe that many modern multi-brand stores are too expensive for consumers.

The industry has the wrong perception of the market when it defines the entry price level for jeans somewhere between 80 and 90 Euros. In the case of higher-quality variants, the entry price even rises to 130 Euros.

Most consumers perceive that as luxury, especially as they often base their own price perceptions on vertically integrated retailers. There, jeans cost between 40 and 45 Euros, shoes cost 23 Euros on average, and shirts set you back a mere 19 Euros. As a retailer, one needs to be aware of the customers’ benchmarks in terms of prices.” style in progress 117

142 FASHION

ROUND ROUND As fast-paced as the fashion business can be due to social media channels and so-called “See Now Buy Now” models, it likes to reflect on its past in terms of trends. The Nineties revival is already fuelling the next comeback. On a less “backward” note, climate change is forcing the industry to rethink classic rhythms and seasonality.

Text: Verna Engelbrecht. Photos: Manufacturers

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DON’T HIDE

The casual-movement made us believe that the days of shirts and blouses are numbered. How delightful that they are making such a strong comeback now - with wild pattern mixes, made of unusual fabrics such as velvet or Jacquard, and richly decorated. The creativity of the designs is especially beneficial for blouses. These innovations can be seen in a diluted form in men’s shirts.

Nevertheless, the message remains the same: shirts are innovative.

Edward Copper

Lucky de Luca

Artigiano

“Restraint is over.

Colours, patterns, bands, prints I really went to town!”

VALENTINO DE LUCA, OWNER OF LUCKY DE LUCA Silk Sisters

Fil Noir

Xacus

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Liebeskind

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Closed

Dawn Denim

Guess Jeans

Cinque

P448

Drykorn

FASHION 145

NINETIES STYLE

The next round has started. While the 1990s trend was predominately dominated by materials in the summer, the industry has decided to reflect on the decade’s DNA in the autumn/winter 2017/18 season. Characteristics for this development are cult pieces such as wide-cut sweatshirts, blousons, and college jackets, as well as platform shoes and flannel shirts. High-cut jeans in patchwork look and velvet accessories complement the style.

Silk Sisters

Marni

“New interpretations of the nineties define the look of Closed: a feminine mix with elements from the seventies. Cropped pea coats meet romantic blouses, while corduroy is updated with sweet sugar colours. Jeans sport high waists and shorter leg lengths set in scene with patchwork designs and severed back pockets.”

CLOSED DESIGN STUDIO

Parajumpers

Drykorn

Bloom

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146 FASHION

Lardini

Bomboogie

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Glücklich

Fortezza

C.P. Company

“The signs of the times are pointing towards climate change - less summer, later and shorter winters. Marlino, in its capacity as a lamb fur specialist, has adjusted to the new situation and completely re-interpreted the material for the upcoming season. Lambskin is extremely functional and can be - depending on leather thickness and fur length - used for various climatic and weather conditions. It’s by no means only useful when temperatures drop below zero! The breathable, windproof, and climate-regulating properties make it a real multitalent.”

MEL NIENABER, DESIGNER AT MARLINO

Blauer USA

Marlino

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MORE THAN A JACKET

The winter jacket is in crisis due to a lack of winter temperatures. The industry has recognised the problem and shifted its focus to innovative materials and 2-in-1 models. Implemented as thin Shearling coat, functional business jacket made of performance materials, or urban military styles with “zippable” thermal lining, the so-called “transition jacket” is an all-rounder capable of surviving seasonal rhythms and short-lived trends.

G-Lab

Wunderfell

People os Shibuya

Meindl

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“Typical for Marc O’Polo Mr., the qualities are developed exclusively inhouse and complemented with highlights of finest Italian origin. Thus, exclusivity and uniqueness are guaranteed. One of our absolute highlights is a sports jacket in checked look made of finest Italian garment-dye wool. It’s both comfortable and masculine, as well as both precise and casual.”

AT.P.CO

Marc O’Polo Mr.

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GUIDO NIEDENTHAL, HEAD OF DIVISION AT MARC O’POLO MR.

Dornschild

Alberto

BOB

FASHION 149

SMART CHECK

In the coming season, finest Italian wool qualities and checked patterns are an integral part of almost all menswear collections. As part of the nineties trend, flannel fabrics experience a revival too. Some things never change: classic checked patterns such as Glencheck and Scottish tartans, as well as single-colour mono-checks, remain at the forefront of fashion. The selection of checked designs ranges from the masculine wool coat to pleat-front trousers. And let’s not forget the backpacks! A smart highlight as part of a business look or cool casual style‌

Lucky de Luca

Strellson

Artigiano

The Gigi

Phil Petter

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Atelier Gardeur

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Minimum

Floris van Bommel

Roberto Cavalli

Essentiel Antwerp

MAC

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PATTERN MIX

This is eclecticism in its purest form! Rich, richer, richest - patterns in all-over design with geometric and oriental repeats are doing a lap of honour.

However, the styling is new. It is no longer limited to a statement piece, but a wild and creative blend. On the other hand, one pattern from head to toe is also a way to create an eye-catcher.

Stetson

Alberto

“Patterns are part of Alberto Woman’s unpretentious creativity. They are, however, merely one playful element among several. In contrast to the relaxed Bohemian Deluxe look with a lot of brocade and sensual all-over prints, we also offer finely crafted wool pants this season: refined, cool, and yet sexy in a very subtle way.”

MARCO LANOWY, HEAD OF RETAIL, SALES, AND MARKETING AT ALBERTO

Dorothee Schumacher

Airfield

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Liu Jo

Cividini

“The influence of shapes and proportions drawn from urban architecture is reflected in oversized silhouettes and bold cuts. Oversized continues to be one of the main topics in autumn/winter 2017. G-Lab stands for performance fashion.

Accordingly, we pick up the trend and interpret the silhouettes in a way that flatters our customers.”

BJÖRN GERICKE, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF G-LAB M Missoni

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FTC Cashmere

Windsor

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OVERSIZE

The new silhouette is oversized, particularly in terms of womenswear. However, the oversized silhouette loses nothing of its femininity, despite the volume. Minimalist cuts and clear contours determine the wide cuts and lend functional outerwear, rough wool qualities, and finest cashmere knitwear a casual urban touch.

G-Lab

Bloom

Save the Duck

Essentiel Antwerp

Closed

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From a different world: Bungalow 8 couldn’t be a greater antithesis to the hustle and bustle of Mumbai.

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The World as a Home

Bungalow 8/Mumbai. Maithili Ahluwalia has managed to establish a unique emporium of modern Indian design in a cricket stadium. Thus, she has become a figurehead of the local emerging multi-brand scene.

Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Bungalow 8

After spending years in Singapore, the United States, and England, Maithili Ahluwalia decided to relocate to Mumbai in 2002. This move was a return to her roots in more ways than one. First and foremost, Mumbai is her home town. However, she also entered the realm of fashion, thereby following in the footsteps of both her mother and grandmother. This particular “family tradition” was started by Chandu Morarji, the aforementioned grandmother. She was perceived as a true fashion pioneer when she opened a lifestyle boutique in the 1960s. She was already cooperating with Chanel when most Indians had never heard about the brand. It seems as if the grandmother’s spirit lives on in her granddaughter. After all, Maithili Ahluwalia made a similarly groundbreaking move when she opened a concept store in 2003.

The name for Ahluwalia’s store was pretty obvious. It is named after its original location in a bungalow that dates back to British colonial times. The business has grown continuously and has become a preferred destination for Hollywood stars such as Madonna and Cindy Crawford, as well as fashion experts like Suzy Menkes. Shortly after its opening, the Wallpaper Magazine included Bungalow

8 in its list of the most beautiful stores worldwide - as did publications like Elle Décor and T Magazine by New York Times. Since 2015, Bungalow 8 has acquired yet another unique feature. It is probably the only lifestyle store located in a stadium dedicated to cricket, the Indian national sport. By the way, the store was already on the premises ten years ago, before the renovation of the building.

An Antithesis

From the noise and dust of the streets of Mumbai, one enters a completely different world. It is an emporium of excellent taste.

The setting is quiet and bright, while the products are staged in a reduced and elaborate manner.

On 225 square metres, one not only finds modernly interpreted Indian design classics by the private brand The Bungalow and young Indian fashion talents. The latter are afforded the opportunity to use the store as their very first sales platform.

Bungalow 8 also offers an individually curated selection of restored antiques such as historic tea sets, chests, and furniture, as well as new home accessories.

The concept store follows the motto “think internationally, trade locally”. Thus, all products are manufactured in India, even though the aesthetics speak an international language. Nobody

Maithili Ahluwalia is much more than the soul of the concept store; her style inspires journalists and stars alike.

could embody this motto better than the founder: “Bungalow 8 is as Indian as it is international. The aim is to combine local traditions and craftsmanship with a modern, individualistic sensitivity. I perceive myself as a hybrid formed by an anglicised Indian family and my time abroad. This sensitivity from different worlds defines me. This is how I ultimately perceive the store’s vision”, Maithili Ahluwalia explains.

For her visionary concept that forms a chamber of wonders based on her own life story, Ahluwalia was included in the renowned “Business of Fashion 500” list. In addition to the honour of being named in the “Best Dressed” lists, she is

among the few Indians to be photographed by Scott Schuman for “The Satorialist”. Bungalow 8 affords its visitors an opportunity to take home a little of her style consciousness - and a touch of India.

Bungalow 8 Wankhede Stadium North Stand E & F Block, D Road, Churchgate, Mumbai/India Opening: 2003 CEO: Maithili Ahluwalia Sales area: 225 sqm Employees: 30 Brands: The Bungalow (private label), Jamini Ahluwalia, Lovebirds, Neeru Kumar, Sonam Dubal, Kashmir Loom, Anavila, Injiri, Olivia Dar, Swapna Mehta

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Cosmopolitan Fashion

Apolis/Los Angeles. Brothers Raan and Shea Parton have committed themselves and their brand, Apolis, to sustainability and social awareness. Their high quality menswear is manufactured - predominantly within the framework of social projects - in twelve countries including the likes of Uganda, Peru, Bangladesh, and - just around the corner - in Los Angeles.

Text: Carolin Reiter. Photos: Apolis

The term Apolis is of Greek origin and means “cosmopolitan” or “citizen of the world”.

From a young age, the Parton brothers have perceived themselves as such. By supporting a number of social projects in developing countries, their parents, construction developers from Santa Barbara, California, greatly influenced their sons’ awareness of the unequal distribution of wealth in the world.

“We even visited the countries and the projects”, Shae Parton remembers. “We got to know the people and made friends.”

Their roles at Apolis are clearly defined: while Raan Parton draws up the designs, Shae takes care of all business-related matters. During their college years, the brothers distributed t-shirts via a little workshop in what used to be a rather shabby Downtown Los Angeles. In 2004, they launched their flagship store on the nearby situated 3rd Street, where the business’ philosophy is resolutely presented to this day. Surrounded by the Downtown Arts District’s renowned restaurants and cafés, the Apolis flagship store is located in one of the trendiest areas of LA. Skyscrapers, which in recent years have been converted into loft-apartments, attract creative minds from all over the world: painters, musicians, and fashion designers. It is here that Apolis finds its audience aware of global issues.

A Flagship Store for Networkers In 2004, the brother‘s Raan (left) and Shea Parton launched their own brand. Raan draws up the designs; Shea takes care of business.

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The typical Apolis cosmopolitan dresses himself in timeless

- yet stylish - t-shirts made of Japanese eco-fabric that is sewn in Honduras. Likewise, he wears high-quality blazers made from Italian wool processed in the USA, thus maintaining a classic-elegant and comfortable-urban design - a style also favoured

by Leonardo di Caprio. “Leo has dropped by a few times”, Shae is pleased to remark. Still, the Parton brothers couldn’t care less about Hollywood glamour.

“We are looking to build bridges between people who share the same values and advocate for a better world.” That is precisely why the flagship store is much more than just a fashion boutique. While 50 percent of the Parton brothers’ turnover is generated online, the Apolis collection has, in the meantime, also been made accessible in renowned department stores such as Nordstrom. In addition to being a retail area, the LA store is the perfect venue for readings, exhibitions, and networking events. Consequently, the store’s entirely modular furnishing can, if so required, simply be moved into storage.

Apolis 806 East 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013, USA www.apolisglobal.com Opening: March 2004 Owners: Shea and Raan Parton Store Manager: Danny Quesada Employees: 5 Sales area: 120 sqm Brands for men: Apolis Accessories brands: Apolis

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Apolis offers casual menswear made of high quality materials.

Raan Parton’s designs are manufactured in social projects all over the world, ranging from Portugal to Bangladesh.

A true cosmopolitan is not identified by his clothes, but by his convictions. Apart from fashion, the Apolis flagship store in Downtown Los Angeles offers a great deal of information on topics surrounding both sustainability and global awareness.

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Green Guerillas is committed to stylish sustainability. In addition to its two stores in Cologne, the company has now opened its first store in Düsseldorf.

Convincing with Style

Green Guerillas/Düsseldorf. With its two stores dedicated to sustainable fashion, Green Guerillas has established itself as a household name in Cologne.

Kai Tettenborn and Marlies Binder have now decided to take the next step by opening a store in Düsseldorf.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Peter Schaffrath

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Marlies Binder and Kai Tettenborn are the masterminds behind the Green Guerillas concept.

First they take Cologne - then they take Düsseldorf.

The location is very promising.

The “Ackerstrasse” in Düsseldorf’s Flingern district thrives on its inspiring mix of cafés, restaurants, and smaller fashion stores. Green Guerillas fits in comfortably here, especially as the new store adheres strictly to the concept of its two predecessors in Cologne. It is unpretentiously furnished with wooden shelves and offers a wide range of tastefully arranged hanging goods. Every item on display is politically correct in the sense that it has been manufactured by sustainable labels that are dedicated to fair trade practices.

This is, by the way, a prerequisite to make it onto the Green Guerillas sales floor. Accordingly, the stores have been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) seal.

Career Changers

Marlies Binder and Kai Tettenborn are so-called career changers. As a qualified sports

scientist, Kai Tettenborn used to work in the sales department of an engineering services provider and for a sports equipment manufacturer. In 2011, he took the plunge and opened his first Green Guerillas store in Cologne’s “Roonstrasse”. At the time, Marlies Binder had just completed her political science and history studies. However, the sustainable concept developed by Kai Tettenborn fascinated her right from the start. One year later, she decided to switch focus and joined the Green Guerillas movement.

The Green Guerillas concept has already won over the fashion enthusiasts of Cologne. The first store was very popular from the outset. It therefore came as no surprise that a second store in Cologne’s lively Südstadt district followed in 2013. Kai Tettenborn believes that something that works so well in Cologne can also work in Düsseldorf.

“We like this area; it really suits us”, he says. “When we - by chance - heard about this vacant

salesroom, we made the decision quite spontaneously.”

Sustainability as Additional Benefit

Nudie Jeans, KnowledgeCotton Apparel, Armedangels of Cologne, and Recolution of Hamburg are among the most prominent brands featured in the stores. “At the start, the style of Green Guerillas and these collections in general were a little more streetwear-centred. It’s all a bit more mature now”, Kai Tettenborn explains. The range of collections has also expanded.

Kai Tettenborn doesn’t have to look too hard to find fashion that suits the Green Guerillas concept. “Today, we are in the fortunate position that labels approach us”, he reveals.

Kai Tettenborn and Marlies Binder have no intention to act as missionaries to the world; they prefer to convince customers of their approach in a more effortless manner. “First and foremost, the design, the materials, and the quality have to hold

true. The sustainability angle is the additional benefit”, Kai Tettenborn stresses. “Instead of wagging our fingers at people, we prefer to highlight how beautiful sustainable fashion can be.”

Green Guerillas Ackerstrasse 113a, 40233 Düsseldorf/Germany www.green-guerillas.de Opening: October 2016 Owners: Kai Tettenborn and Marlies Binder Employees: 5 Sales area in Düsseldorf: 70 sqm Brands for women: Anukoo, Armedangels, Bleed, Colorio Organics, Evermind, FellHerz, Feuervogl, Feuerwear, Frieda Sand, Glimpse Clothing, Kings Of Indigo, Komodo, LangerChen, Miss Green, Nudie Jeans, Recolution, ThokkThokk, Up-rise, Veja Brands for men: Armedangels, Bleed, Evermind, FellHerz, Feuervogl, Feuerwear, Kings Of Indigo, KnowledgeCotton Apparel, LangerChen, Nudie Jeans, Recolution, ThokkThokk, Veja

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Large shop windows and a lot of heart: the aim of the store design is to establish a direct connection with consumers.

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Independent

Catwalk Junkie/Mannheim. With the opening of the Catwalk Junkie store in Mannheim, the entrepreneurial trio behind the Colorful Trade fashion agency rolls out the red carpet for the eponymous brand. The store also proves that mono-brand stores can benefit from multibrand concepts.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Catwalk Junkie

“We were able to disprove some of the concerns that we repeatedly hear during order talks just a few weeks after opening our store”, says Jörg Korfhage while highlighting an important reason for the opening of the Catwalk Junkie store in Mannheim. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves here. Jörg Korfhage, Tanja Oidtmann, and Boris Korlatzki, the owners of the Colorful Trade fashion agency with offices in Laudenbach near Mannheim and a recently enlarged showroom in Munich, are three entrepreneurs that complement each other perfectly. Their agency represents brands such as Liu Jo, Anonyme Designers, and Koll3kt; and everybody knows

that today’s distribution business cannot yield success without in-depth retail knowledge.

All three managing partners of Colorful Trade boast such trade experience in their respective CVs. This is what made the idea to utilise this experience in the light of the changes occurring within the industry even more tempting. Catwalk Junkie, a real-time collection that hails from the Netherlands, quickly emerged as the perfect partner.

70 percent of the 110 square metre sales floor is dedicated to the fast-moving collection, while the rest is reserved for other brands. The collaboration with Catwalk Junkie is so close that the brand even granted permis-

sion to use certain CI elements.

The heart that is the symbol of the brand also beats for the store itself. Nevertheless, the Colorful Trade trio didn’t merely want to focus solely on Catwalk Junkie.

“We were eager to secure the independence of a multi-brand concept; the store is, after all, also our personal investment”, Korfhage explains. The three fashion experts teamed up with the architects of PW2 Project for the development of the shop-fitting concept. The defining materials of the store are steel, wood, and concrete. The location within the newly created Q6 Q7 district is a deliberate experiment. Here, Blocher Blocher Partner created no less than 150,000 square metres of new gross floor space. A blend of flats, offices, a hotel, a fitness centre, and a high-end shopping centre should firmly anchor the location, which is adjacent to the pedestrian zone, within Mannheim’s city centre.

only six were sold during the season. Risk distribution is important, but it needs to be more balanced.” Korfhage believes that one should have the courage to implement such generous 18-piece arrangements for fashion items. “What was sold after three days? It was the fashionable top products which people in our showroom only purchased with restraint. The consumer is underestimated so often!” Korfhage cannot confirm the laments of wholesale customers: “Does the online trade really cut into the business of stationary stores? In our experience, this is an assessment that is completely false. If you focus on service and remain in permanent dialogue with customers, then the stationary retail trade is anything but obsolete.

Of course, nothing is a sure-fire success these days. If you, however, take care of your customers in a proactive manner, then you will reap rewards.”

Sold Out

The owners of Colorful Trade - namely Boris Korlatzki, Tanja Oidtmann, and Jörg Korfhage - decided to reinvigorate their retail roots by opening a Catwalk Junkie store in Mannheim’s new Q6 Q7 district.

In its first season - the store opened in October last year the owners learned important lessons from their shop venture.

“So-called 1-2-2-1 arrangements no longer reflect the purchase behaviour of consumers, mainly because none of the manufacturers still have the capacity to re-deliver twelve pieces when

Catwalk Junkie Shopping Mall Q6 Q7, Q6 1/11 68161 Mannheim/Germany www.colorfultrade.com Owners: Jörg Korfhage, Tanja Oidtmann, Boris Korlatzki Sales area: 110sqm Brands: A Beautiful Story, Catwalk Junkie, Freds Bruder, Indigo Move

by Mavi, Liu Jo, Mavi, Refrigiwear

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Wonderfully Nordic

Hansen/Copenhagen. Per Chrois and Aase Helena Hansen launched their own label in 2009. Now they have opened their own store with a coherent multi-label concept.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Hansen. Portrait: Svante Nybyggars

Per Chrois and Aase Helena Hansen never envisaged opening a store. However, life proved to be as unpredictable as ever. Last August, they opened the doors to their own Hansen store to the public. “It allows us to showcase our menswear range in its entirety”, says Per Chrois.

The store’s stock is complemented by other collections which, together with Hansen Menswear, create an overall picture that is both homogenous and exciting.

Democratic Design

Aase Helena Hansen is a true fashion professional. Following her studies at the Royal College of Design in Copenhagen, she was, in her capacity as head of design, responsible for a womenswear collection for many years. Per Chrois first worked on international development projects; a little later he contributed to film and TV productions.

“During a motorcycle trip from Denmark to southern Spain, we decided to combine our talents and create a collection together”, 117 style in progress

Aase Helena Hansen says. This is when the Hansen story started seven years ago. The label offers clothing for men and women, based on Nordic traditions, aesthetics, and values. Accordingly, the look is very pure - yet never boring - with high standards in terms of quality. The result is menswear that can be worn on a daily basis and - in Hansen’s words - appeals to the most diverse types of men.

For example, the store also stocks traditional Irish knitwear

by Inis Main, timeless menswear by Heschung of France, and iconic shirts by Orcival, as well as denim by Japan Blue and Merz B. Schwanen of the Swabian Mountains. “All these collections are in line with our concept. They all boast a strong identity and are run by highly committed owners who produce their respective products in their own countries”, Hansen points out. Per Chrois adds: “This range of timeless collections should enable us to avoid the usual season and sales rhythms.”

The store is located in a side

street of Copenhagen’s world-famous shopping miles Strøget and Købmagergade. The building itself dates back to 1730. The furnishing is based on the paintings by Vilhelm Hammershoi, a Danish artist.

Thus, the interior resembles a typical Copenhagen apartment from 1900, with white wood on the walls and a ceiling made of glass panels. The latter is equally typical for historical Copenhagen. Nothing in the store can be considered “run-of-the-mill”.

Let’s face it, standard furniture would look completely out of place at Hansen. The fact that Chrois and Hansen appointed Søren Konstante Nissen as store manager is additional proof that the concept is fuelled by personalities. After all, he used to sail through the Caribbean Sea as a captain and is a professional sail maker.

Mutual Learning

The office and studio of Aase Helena Hansen and Per Chrois is just around the corner, which means that they visit their store

on a daily basis. “We learn a lot from our customers”, says Aase Helena Hansen. “The level of interest in the materials and production of the clothes has surprised me. Both sides - the customers and we - can benefit from this dialogue. It’s a great joy to be able to experience this.”

Hansen Pilestræde 42, 1112 Copenhagen/ Denmark www.hansengarments.com Opening: August 2016 Owners: Per Chrois and Aase Helena Hansen Store manager: Søren Konstante Nissen Employees: 2 Sales area: 74 sqm Brands for men: among others Atalaye, GRP, Hansen, Hernen Biarritz, Heschung, Inis Main, Japan Blue, Le Laboureur, Merz B. Schwanen, Orcival, Saint Paul, William Lennon Accessories brands: among others Hansen, Le Bonhomme, Gammelmønt Knitting, Simon Leather, Manabu Kaminaga

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Everything at Hansen is hand-picked, from the interior to the collections that complement Hansen’s menswear.

Aase Helena Hansen and Per Chrois’s label Hansen pursues the same straightforward and convincing concept as found in the design of their store.

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The products radiate even more profusely against a black backdrop.

The interior of the store was designed by Philipp Bruni.

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Stuff for Men

Strictly Herrmann/Vienna. Her courage is undisputed. With Strictly Herrmann, Claudia Rauhofer has decided to open a concept store for what can best be described as “the man 3.0”. Strictly Herrmann specialises in slow fashion, gadgets, and grooming.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Strictly Herrmann

While walking her dog, Claudia Rauhofer suddenly found herself standing in front of the perfect location. In the building with the address “Taborstrasse 5”, located in Vienna’s second district, she turned three salesrooms into one - a really great one too! The 200 square metre store is dominated by the colour black and boasts threedimensional plasterboard elements on its walls. The latter make the store look like the inside of a rough diamond. The colour choice - pure jet black turns the interior into the perfect stage for all the carefully selected valuables that are waiting to be discovered by self-confident and self-determined men. The art director at Claudia Rauhofer’s side is Philipp Bruni. As a product designer, he has a true passion for the creative process.

Together, the two developed the store’s design language; they committed themselves fully to the slow fashion concept. “An increasing number of discerning customers desire a truly unique shopping experience - especially in urban areas”, Claudia Rauhofer explains. “In this respect, we meet the demands of our time. The modern man attaches great importance to design, culinary delights, grooming, and sustainability.” Philipp Bruni adds: “Strictly Herrmann is for the modern man what Q’s laboratory is for James Bond.

Our store is where men can find exciting fashion away from the mainstream, state-of-the-art gadgets, special books, stationery, collector’s items, culinary highlights, unusual fragrances, and grooming products.”

Outside the Box

The product range breathes urbanity; the duo has assembled products that resonate far beyond Austria’s borders, but some labels still have a connection to their homeland. Both the men’s fashion by Weber + Weber and the retro e-bike by Gerro are developed by individuals who have proven that they think and act on an international level. Claudia Rauhofer’s roots - she was in leading positions in the retail departments of Estee Lauder and Douglas - come to the fore in the selection of beauty products. Nevertheless, Strictly Herrmann is a completely new beginning for her and the female entrepreneur is enjoying every minute of it. Her passion for her new project is bound to rub off on her male customers. The store stocks a wide variety of items from finest gin to limited editions of pocket photo books. It also offers tools such as a classy socket wrench in the shape of a writing utensil and hand-crafted shoes by Lukács László. Strictly Herrmann’s principle is based on the knowledge that the background story of all these

Strictly Herrmann is a bold and radical new beginning for Claudia Rauhofer, in the photo with creative director Philipp Bruni.

products needs to be told with passion and in-depth knowledge. The store offers so-called “lab sessions”, during which it invites the labels to present themselves as they see fit. It helps that almost everything in the store is modular. It can be transformed into an event location (and back again) within a few hours. Additional areas in the basement and inner courtyard expand the possibilities even more. Both entrepreneurs are quite clear that Strictly Herrmann will, by no means, remain the only playground for discerning men. “We have a wealth of ideas for the next two years. We plan to establish an online shop and pop-up stores all around the world. Strictly Hermann in Vienna is only the beginning!”

Strictly Herrmann Taborstrasse 5, 1020 Vienna/Austria www.strictlyherrmann.com Owner: Claudia Rauhofer Employees: 5 Sales area: 200 sqm Brands for men: Gerald Pahr, Weber + Weber, Verdandy Lifestyle brands: Assouline, Annette Ahrens, Architect Made, Caran d’Ache, Georg Trenker, Gerro, Güde Messer, HMM Project, Elevato, Kalmar Werkstätten, Karter Noster, Krucefix Spirits, Lange Production, LEFF Amsterdam, Mühle Shaving, Mininch, Mujjo, Oneofthose, Pop Corn, Philipp Bruni Design, Schatzii, Shinola, Taschen, Urban Rugs, Uwe Kahl, Woodstock

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166 IN STORE

A New Way

Oberpollinger/Munich. The basement of the venerable Oberpollinger department store has been elaborately transformed into a concept store. The name of the new format: The Storey. As part of the restructuring of The KaDeWe Group, this is the beginning of a contemporary realignment in the streetwear/urbanwear segment.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: The KaDeWe Group

117 style in progress

IN STORE 167

Above: A breath of fresh air: Daniel P. Werner is the head buyer for The Storey.

Left: Clean and elegant: HaaseGonzalez, a Berlinbased architecture firm, is responsible for the interior design of the new urbanwear department at Oberpollinger.

Oberpollinger, a magnificent building that was built in 1905, boasts three rising gables and a glass-roofed atrium. Back then, the press hailed the building as a groundbreaking structure in which one can feel the “breath of the great wide world”.

Just like urban environment in general, the tradition-steeped building in Munich is subject to constant change: a fact which is proven by the numerous renovations and conversions which the more than 100-yearold structure underwent. With more than 30,000 square metres of sales area spread out over seven floors, Oberpollinger is the largest department store in southern Germany. The most recent innovation is the conversion of the basement into a concept store for streetwear and urbanwear - The Storey.

A large-scale opening event in October marked the beginning of a new era.

Different Than Before

The masterminds behind the project have decided to take a new approach, not only in terms of their own website and their

Instagram account. “The Storey is an urbanwear area that had never before existed in Germany in this form, which means that we are treading a completely new path. The product range consists of both international brands and local designers.

Furthermore, we allow the boundaries between athletic and formal to blur”, says Daniel Werner, an urbanwear buyer at The KaDeWe Group. “Fashion and art are moving closer together, which is reflected in the interior design of the new department. It is characterised by opposites, differences, and style language breaks in terms of shape, colour, and material. This ‘cold chic’ can be described as interplay between tradition and dynamic urbanity, for which both Munich and Oberpollinger stand.”

Future-Oriented

The Berlin-based architecture firm of Judith Haase and Pierre Jorge Gonzalez is responsible for the interior concept of The Storey. The team has already designed stores for household names such as Andreas Murkud-

is, Weekday, and The Corner.

Haase and Gonzalez have also contributed to other projects of The KaDeWe Group in the past.

Highlights include large goods displays with marble inserts and the mirrored area dedicated to shoes and sneakers. The open ceiling structure, with exposed pipes and non-plastered concrete beams, represents the dawn of a new era. On a total sales area of 2,000 square metres, one not only finds an elaborately designed multi-label section with numerous smaller brands from different product groups, but also nine shop-in-shop formats by brands such as Adidas Originals, American Vintage, Carhartt, Carré Y, Edwin, and Vans. Furthermore, The Storey plans to follow in the footsteps of its Japanese peers by integrating a Ramen restaurant into its concept. The restaurant will - as the description suggests - mainly offer the noodle soups that are so popular in Asia. By the way, the Alsterhaus in Hamburg and the KaDeWe in Berlin will also be opening new urbanwear departments in 2017 and 2018 respectively.

The Storey Concept Store Oberpollinger Neuhauser Str. 18, 80331 Munich/Germany Department Store Manager: Alexander Repp Buyer: Daniel Werner Employees: 30 Opening: 14th of October 2016 Sales area: 2.000 sqm (basement) www.thestoreymunich.de Brands for women: Agolde, Anecdote, Anine Bing, Bonvirage, Champion, Cheap Monday, Dr. Denim, Free People, Ganni, Just Female, Kings of Indigo, Levi’s, Libertine Libertine, Mink Pink, Modström, Norse Project, Opening Ceremony, Somedays Lovin, Ten117, Whyred, Wood Wood, YMC Brands for men: Alpha Industries, BBC, Champion, Champion, Deus Ex Machina, Ebbet Field Flannels, Hamilton & Hare, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Libertine Libertine, Opening Ceremony, Penfield, Saturdays Surf NYC, Soulive, Uniforms for the Dedicated, Wood Wood, YMC Shoe brands: Adidas, Arkk, Asics, Brütting, Buttero, Converse, Dr. Martens, Eytys, Fenty by Rihanna, Garment Project, Grenson, Le Flow, Losers, New Balance, Nike, Opening Ceremony, Puma, Reebok, Solsana, Steve Madden, Vor Produkte Accessories brands: Brixton, Coal, Dyemond Goods, Eastpak, Federica Moretti, Herschel, IF Bags, Indigo People, Lomography, Marshall, Mi-Pac, MyMy Copenhagen, New Era, Nixon, Pendleton, Ping Pong, Revivo Candela, Sandqvist, Shinola, Skinny Dip, Stance Tom Shot, Ucon Acrobatics, Xpoose Beauty: Andmetics, Baxter of California, Be my friend, Curaprox, Dermalogica, Ellis Faas, Konjac Sponges, Ikoo, Jack‘s Beauty Line, Kiehl´s, La Bruket, Percy Nobleman, Stop The Water, Triumpf & Desaster, Urban Decay, Uslu, Wash with Joe Shop-in-Shops: Adidas Originals, American Vintage, Carhartt, Carré Y, Edited the Label, Edwin, The Kooples Sport, Topman/Topshop, Vans

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168 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US

Digital... in Progress

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

2017 is a special year for style in progress.

Parallel with the publication of this issue, we are launching our new, independent online presence. We took our time with this step, above all, because the online presence of a medium should never be an end in itself.

During the reflection and development phases, we often asked ourselves whether we could create content that actually adds value to the limitless information overkill provided by the Internet. This content also has to satisfy a truly special target group. After all, we have always perceived the readers of style in progress as such.

The core of the expanded content range that we are now offering to this target group is what also constitutes the strength and authority of our magazine: recognising and establishing topics. We always represent a clear opinion and try to remain positive and solution-oriented at all times. And above all: we always try to think - and look - outside the box. In all modesty, I can claim for style in progress that we were possibly among the first to identify most topics that affect our industry enormously today. This desire to seek interrelationships and often address important issues in an unconventional manner is what is most enjoyable in terms of dealing with fashion, the people who work in the industry, and the social and economic mechanisms that constantly present new challenges.

Thus, sipON will be thought-provoking and initiate discussions, in a rhythm and intensity that our magazine can’t provide due to its set release dates. We not only strive to accompany the transformation process of the fashion industry in terms of content, but are also eager to continue to shape it. I would be thrilled if my thoughts on the matter aroused your interest and I would like to invite you to register at www.style-in-progress.com.

117 style in progress

20 Years in Progress Admittedly, I was left a little speechless by this. Depending on the angle, 20 years represent a blink of an eye or an era. It is, however, nice to be able to say that it has not only been a successful time, but also a time during which I had a lot of fun. It was productive fun. It was fun to learn every step of the way and to develop on a personal level within a - and I want to emphasise this once more - fantastic and exciting industry. When I sit back, I am immediately struck by so many great and enriching experiences and encounters. This anniversary is, above all, an opportunity to say THANK YOU to the readers, the many friends and partners, the critics, the co-thinkers and visionaries, the colleagues, and my team. I am already looking forward to meeting many of the aforementioned over the coming weeks to discuss, philosophies, and reflect. I am certain I will - once again be wiser at the end of the season than I was at the start of it.

Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at

PS: Last but not least ancora un ringraziamento speciale all’Italia. Senza questo Paese così folle, creativo, insolente e imprevedibile – luogo agognato della mia fanciullezza e della mia gioventù - il Paese che mi ha regalato Fabrizio de André, Cesare Pavese e tanto altro ancora, style in progress non sarebbe stato e non sarebbe possibile.

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner-Seybold martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Verena Engelbrecht Petrina Engelke Isabel Faiss Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Carolin Reiter Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Photographers Ryan Hursh Peter Schaffrath Illustrator Claudia Meitert Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach

Next issue 12 April 2017

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