GO ESCAPE GULF COAST 2018

GULF COAST WI N T E R 20 1 9

Tricentennial The Big Easy Turns 300!

ALABAMA Indulge in dining delights of Mobile French Quarter, downtown New Orleans

FLORIDA Explore quaint, quiet beach towns

MISSISSIPPI Bask in Biloxi’s water wonders

TEXAS Enjoy festive frills in Galveston

2

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

3

Inside-the-ropes coverage, no matter where you are.

Our readers are a different breed of golfer who deserve a unique brand of content – whenever and wherever they want. Now, with the new Golfweek.com, they’ll receive a more robust monthly print magazine, weekly digital editions, e-newsletters, podcasts, and exclusive access to special events. And with comprehensive daily coverage, our fans are never far from the green.

Subscribe now and receive $25 towards your next tee-time at teeoff.com.

golfweek.com/subscribe

4

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

CONTENTS

5

GULF COAST

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS Get up close and personal with Gulf Coast wildlife Manatees in Florida’s Crystal River DISCOVER CRYSTAL RIVER FLORIDA

6

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

CONTENTS This is a product of

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes jbstokes@usatoday.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com

MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington mjwashington@usatoday.com

Clearwater Beach Pier at sunset

28

GETTY IMAGES

THE REGION

FEATURE

19

ARTSY, AQUATIC INSPIRATION Destinations combine art and water for epic trips

25

ALABAMA Get your fill of flavor with Mobile’s burgeoning culinary landscape

28

FLORIDA

30

Explore quaint Sunshine State towns where time stands still

Tips and tricks to help capture sensational sunsets

IRENE AMIET FOR ARTIST BOAT

UP FRONT

8

EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Tracy Scott Forson Patricia Kime Sara Schwartz Debbie Williams ISSUE DESIGNER Lisa M. Zilka DESIGNERS Amira Martin Gina Toole Saunders INTERN Jordan Pecar CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Ben Abramson, Diane Bair, Susan B. Barnes, Sam Boykin, Rosalind Cummings-Yeates, Christopher Elliott, Connie Hum, Cheryl Rodewig, Susan Shain, Annette Thompson, Adam Tyner, Maggie Tuten Tyner, Pamela Wright, Stacey Zable

ADVERTISING

BETTER BREAKS Upgraded rest stops and travel plazas improve road trips

32

LOUISIANA Celebrate 300 years of history during New Orleans’ tricentennial celebration

VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914 pburke@usatoday.com

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Justine Madden | (703) 854-5444 jmadden@usatoday.com

10

COOL CASINOS Court Lady Luck and savor some R&R

34

Journey through the tastes and traditions of Louisiana’s Acadiana

38

MISSISSIPPI Dive into wet and wild aquatic adventures in Biloxi

ON THE COVER The French Quarter in downtown New Orleans

44

PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

GETTY IMAGES

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER: @USATODAYMAGS

TEXAS Galveston transforms into a winter wonderland for the holidays

FACEBOOK: Facebook.com/usatodaymags

FINANCE Billing Coordinator Julie Marco ISSN#0734-7456 A USA TODAY Network publication, Gannett Co. Inc. USA TODAY, its logo and associated graphics are the trademarks of Gannett Co. Inc. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, USA TODAY, a division of Gannett Co. Inc. Editorial and publication headquarters are at 7950 Jones Branch Dr., McLean, VA 22108, and at (703) 854-3400.

For accuracy questions, call or send an email to accuracy@usatoday.com.

PRINTED IN THE USA

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

7

8

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

UP FRONT | ROAD TRIPS

HOW TO FIND THE BEST ROAD STOPS

SHEETZ INC.; PILOT FLYING J; EILEEN BLASS; GETTY IMAGES

Pit Stops Improved Highway rest areas, travel plazas are better than ever

By Christopher Elliott

P

ULL OVER. THE HIGHWAY rest

stop, long the laughingstock of motorists, is getting a longoverdue makeover.

It took long enough. A recent poll by Zeno Research & Insights found that 57 percent of parents say they feel “stressed” on family road trips when they think about where they’ll stop.

They’re especially concerned that the roadside rest stop, truck stop, gas station or restaurant won’t have fresh food options that appeal to everyone along for the ride — a tall order for some families. Another big worry: clean bathrooms; 98 percent said this was important. Seven in 10 respondents said they’d go out of their way for a pristine latrine.

But there’s good news for worried parents and their kids: Fleeing into the forest may become less common for your upcoming

road trip. Fellow travelers have noticed new rest stops that defy the outhouse-with-agas-pump cliché, and some companies are trying to redefine the highway rest stop experience.

For example, Pilot Flying J, one of the largest truck stop operators in the United States, is investing $500 million to renovate existing travel centers, including bathroom and facility upgrades. It’s also revamping its menu with fresh ground bean-to-cup coffee and a partnership with celebrity chef Tim Love. Pilot Flying J, which commissioned the Zeno poll, already has a great reputation among frequent drivers but wanted to “challenge some of the stereotypes” of what a truck stop should look like, says Whitney Haslam Johnson, the company’s chief experience officer.

Brian Hoyt, a marketing professional from Norfolk, Mass., says his No. 1 rest stop is Buc-ee’s, a small chain of regional stores in Texas. What’s so special about

Buc-ee’s? In a word: bathrooms. In 2012, Buc-ee’s received an award for the cleanest bathrooms in America (yes, there’s an award for that) for offering “the most spotless loos in the Lone Star State, making this pit stop perfect for any road warrior and fit for a king,” according to the press release.

An honorable mention goes to official state welcome centers, which often are a cut above anything else you find along interstate highways. For Micheline Maynard, a favorite is the Sumter Welcome Center in Alabama.

“It has a lovely tended garden with native plants, lots of tourist information and many choices of concessions,” says Maynard, who teaches journalism at the University of Michigan and is an expert on transportation.

“It’s a nice ambassador for the state.”

Being selective about highway rest stops can definitely improve the quality of your next road trip. Here’s hoping that on your next drive you won’t have to heed nature’s call — in nature.

Identify the official rest areas before you leave.

Most states list their welcome centers and rest areas online, or you can consult Interstate Rest Areas (interstaterest areas.com).

Do your research on roadside businesses. Doing a quick search on Yelp (yelp.com) or TripAdvisor (trip advisor.com) before your stop will help you choose between several gas stations.

But don’t make it your sole criterion. A search on GasBuddy (gasbuddy.com) can reveal the lowest price for fuel, which is always a worthy consideration.

Time your stops if you can. Planning breaks in advance can help you avoid questionable rest areas. If you’re traveling with young children, you’ll have to time meals, and especially drinks, to that schedule. Of course, sometimes, a bathroom break is unavoidable and can’t be planned.

— Christopher Elliott

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

9

6 ways to get a little relief from the grind on longer trips

The JLab Fit 2.0 earbuds, left, and the Beats Solo3 over-ear headphones.

AMAZON

Patricia Camerota | Special to USA TODAY

Whether you’re traveling by car, bus, or plane, five or more hours spent en route can be a real pain in the ... everywhere. Sure, it’s not the destination

Bring a thousand books along with you by loading them onto Amazon’s Kindle Paperwhite e-reader. The screen can be read regardless of whether the lights in the room are on or off. AMAZON

but the journey that matters — but the wordsmith who said that never spent half a day aboard a flight with a low-cost airline. Here are six things you need for both comfort and entertainment:

1

5

2

6

A trusty pair of headphones and a set of earbuds to drown out all the annoying sounds. It often seems like everyone on the plane is loud, and bus drivers can have poor taste in music.

Pack both headphones and earbuds because after about four hours of use, either one becomes uncomfortable, and you’ll be glad to be able to switch it up.

The JLab Fit 2.0 earbuds are under $25; Beats Solo3 headphones, $300.

A reusable water bottle. It is so easy to get dehydrated while traveling, especially on a plane. and dehydration makes jet lag worse. Bring a water bottle, and ask the flight attendants to refill it — they’re usually happy to. The 1-liter CamelBak Chute is less than $10.

3

A portable charger because without your smartphone, you’re basically stranded: The lower your phone’s battery level indicator, the higher your anxiety. We’ve tested several portable chargers and found that the RavPower Turbo Series 20100mAh is the best battery pack for your money. It can charge a smartphone several times over before needing a recharge of its own.

Also, it’s only around $40. Charge your phone, laptop, Nintendo Switch, or whatever else you’ve got in that bag.

18

Facial cleansing wipes to banish the dust, dirt and oils that build up on skin while traveling. Use them on your face, use them on your hands, use them on your phone, use them everywhere. The micellar cleansing wipes from Simple are gentle on sensitive skin while still getting the job done. Get a twopack of Simple micellar water wipes for under $10.

Say goodbye to ridiculous-looking travel pillows. The Trtl, right, wraps around your neck like a scarf and doesn’t take up much space in your bag. AMAZON

Dehydration is always a risk while traveling, especially when you fly. Keep your body hydrated with CamelBak’s Chute 1-liter water bottle.

AMAZON

4

An e-reader to keep yourself occupied with new books or old favorites. When traveling, you need to save space, so why would you pack three bulky books when you could load 1,000 onto a thin device? Check out the Kindle Paperwhite, starting at around $60, for a travel companion. Whether the lights are on or off, you’ll be able to read with ease. The device boasts a 300 pixels-perinch touchscreen display, an adjustable backlight and excellent battery life.

A neck pillow, because good rest is essential. Traditional neck pillows are bulky and look ridiculous. But the Trtl neck wrap travel pillow looks more like a scarf and takes up less room in your luggage. This under-$30 product has garnered a 4-star rating with thousands of reviews on Amazon. Getting good rest is worth looking like a goofball, but with this neck wrap, you won’t.

BONUS: A carry-on cocktail kit so you can toast yourself and your taxing journey. When traveling gets stressful, take the edge off. These tiny cocktail kits are all over the place this year — and it’s hard to decide between the Moscow mule and the Champagne kit. Maybe both. Get the Carry-on Cocktail kit for $24.

Prices can vary by merchant. Patricia Camerota writes for Reviewed.com

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

10

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

UP FRONT | CASINOS

Wind Creek Casino and Hotel Atmore WIND CREEK HOSPITALITY

ALABAMA

L’AUBERGE LAKE CHARLES

Game Time!

About an hour’s ride from the coastlines of Mobile or Pensacola, Fla., you can find yourself — and perhaps your winning moment — at Wind Creek Casino and Hotel Atmore (windcreekatmore.com) in Atmore, Ala. In addition to its more than 1,500 gaming machines, the 71-acre, AAA Four Diamond property prides itself on being one of the Gulf Coast’s premier family-friendly entertainment destinations, complete with a 2,350-seat amphitheater hosting live concerts and events, a 16-lane bowling alley, an eight-screen cinema complex and a 53-game arcade.

Meal options range from fine dining at FIRE Steakhouse to casual fare, and relaxation is easily found in the full-service spa and in all of the 236 guest rooms, including 38 suites and four luxury villas.

Luck of the draw, lounging and luxury await at Gulf casinos

By Susan B. Barnes

I

F YOU FIND YOURSELF fortunate enough to be

vacationing along the Gulf Coast, you may feel like you have already won. To add even more good luck to your itinerary, consider visiting one of these venues for premium food, games and entertainment:

FIRE Steakhouse WIND CREEK HOSPITALITY

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

11

12

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

UP FRONT | CASINOS

Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & CasinoTampa

Golf at L’Auberge Casino Lake Charles

ROB HARRIS

The Spa at Beau Rivage

L’AUBERGE LAKE CHARLES

Kickapoo Lucky Eagle Casino Hotel

BEAU RIVAGE RESORT & CASINO

KICKAPOO LUCKY EAGLE CASINO HOTEL

FLORIDA

LOUISIANA

MISSISSIPPI

TEXAS

Currently undergoing a nearly $700 million expansion, the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Tampa (seminolehardrocktampa.com) is reinforcing its position as one of the largest casinos in the U.S. with 5,000 slot machines and nearly 200 gaming tables. At the center of the expansion is a new 15-story tower, which will add 564 rooms and suites, bringing the number of guest accommodations to more than 800. Three new outdoor swimming pools and deck areas the size of a football field will be hot spots to cool off, and in addition to a third fine dining restaurant, the property is developing its Seminole Hard Rock Event Center with a grand ballroom for live concerts and other events.

One of the fun ways to arrive at the AAA Four Diamond L’Auberge Casino Resort Lake Charles (llakecharles.com) is by boat, and when you do, you can dock at one of the resort’s marina’s 16 slips, complete with shore power and water hookups. However you travel, there’s plenty to do when you get arrive. Vegas-style gambling with 70 table games and more than 1,550 slot machines, as well as a High Limit Salon and Poker Room, is found within the 70,000-square-foot, single-level casino.

Outside of the casino, 13 dining options await, as does the Shops at L’Auberge and an 18-hole, par-71 championship Tom Fazio-designed golf course, in addition to a spa, a barbershop and the resort’s popular Lazy River.

Visit the beachfront, AAA Four Diamond Beau Rivage Resort & Casino (beaurivage.com) in Biloxi and enjoy a stay in one of its 1,740 guest rooms, including 95 luxury suites; dining in its 10 restaurants and sipping cocktails in four lounges. You can also seek some retail therapy in 12 boutiques along the promenade; play a round on the Fazio-designed Fallen Oak Golf Course; and relax in the 20,000-square-foot spa and salon.

Try your luck at the 85,000-square-foot casino’s 80 table games, 1,768 slot machines, 16-table poker room and high-roller options, as well as one of the state’s first sports booking lounge and bar. Afterward, enjoy live entertainment in the resort’s 1,550-seat theater.

In Eagle Pass, about two and a half hours from San Antonio, Kickapoo Lucky Eagle Casino Hotel (luckyeagletexas.com) is the largest of just two casinos in all of Texas. Owned and operated by Kickapoo Traditional Tribe of Texas, the casino is celebrating its 22nd year. More than 3,300 games await for you to try your luck, including slots, a recently renovated bingo hall, Texas Hold ’Em (of course!) and more.

Nearly 250 guest rooms and suites overlook the Rio Grande and South Texas landscape, and are perfect for relaxing after gaming or enjoying live entertainment (offered on the weekends). And with 10 options to enjoy food and drinks, you certainly will not go hungry.

High Limit Salon SEMINOLE HARD ROCK TAMPA

L’AUBERGE LAKE CHARLES

Fallen Oak Golf Course at Beau Rivage Resort & Casino BEAU RIVAGE RESORT & CASINO

KICKAPOO LUCKY EAGLE CASINO HOTEL

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

13

14

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

15

Swim with Manatees AT CRYSTAL RIVER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, FLORIDA

s

C

r i tt e r C o m f o r t Get up close and personal with wildlife at these ecotourism destinations

Citrus County is the only place in the U.S. where you can legally swim with manatees. They head inland each winter by the hundreds from Florida’s western coast, and that’s where you can meet these half-ton mammals who are surprisingly graceful underwater.

“There’s nothing like it,” says Phil Eledge, a captain with River Ventures (riverventures.com), one of the tour companies that organizes the swims.

“Every single day is different. Every tour is different.

Sometimes they approach you. Sometimes a manatee will come up and chew on my beard or put its snout against my snorkel. We call it a kiss from a manatee.”

Swimmers are given a wet suit and the necessary gear along with instructions on how to interact with this threatened species. (Disturbing them is against the law.)

“The manatee is wild,” Eledge says. “We’re in their environment. If it wants to come to us, great. If not, we’re going to observe it at a distance.”

You can find manatees along the Gulf Coast year-round, but go between November and April to increase your odds of a close encounter.

“If you stay still, they’ll come around,” says Lori Sorrentino, who swam in Kings Bay, one of the largest winter homes for manatees with more than 70 springs. “I had one start chewing on the strip of my snorkel mask, and a large adult came underneath me and lifted me right out of the water. It was like laying on a submarine. It’s hard to believe such large creatures can be so docile.”

STAY: Crystal Blue Lagoon Bed & Breakfast For the true manatee enthusiast, this B&B has manatee- and mermaid-themed décor and artwork throughout the blue-hued building and is within walking distance of the springs. ▶ crystalbluelagoonbb.com

By Cheryl Rodewig

DINE:

T

Cracker’s Bar, Grill & Tiki Grab a seat under a beach umbrella facing the water and order a cold drink along with hearty favorites such as clam strips, oysters and potato skins. ▶ crackersbarandgrill.com

HERE’S SOMETHING INCREDIBLE ABOUT being surrounded

by animals without bars or fences in the way. It makes you feel like you’ve stepped into another world, their world. And if you’re lucky enough to pet a giraffe or have a lemur perch on your shoulder, that’s something you’ll never forget.

So put away the binoculars. You won’t be spotting fauna from a distance at these Gulf Coast getaways. You’ll be right in the thick of it, rubbing shoulders — or tails or snouts — with some of the wildest life around.

DISCOVER CRYSTAL RIVER FLORIDA

16

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

Have a Close Encounter AT THE ALABAMA GULF COAST ZOO

MICHELLE RUSHING

Typically, at a zoo, you’re on one side of the fence and the animals are on the other, but that’s not always the case at the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo (alabamagulfcoastzoo.org).

Depending on the exhibit, you might feed a sloth, cuddle a boa constrictor or pet a tamandua.

“Each encounter offers a different way to interact with the animals,” says Michelle Little, head keeper at the zoo.

“The lemurs are the most adventurous as they love to bounce around the encounter and will sometimes pause to hang out on guests’ shoulders. The kangaroos are usually relaxed and will often stretch out on the ground and let kids scratch their backs.”

Wendy Ekstrand and her daughter, Madeline, have experienced all five animal encounters. They visited

Give a Beast a Treat AT MISSISSIPPI’S GULF COAST GATOR RANCH You’ve heard of dude ranches, the cattle-filled prairies of the West. But the southern coast of Mississippi has a different type of ranch with animals a lot wilder than livestock.

Welcome to the Gulf Coast Gator Ranch (airboatswamptoursofmississippi. com).

Visitors can discover alligators in their natural habitat aboard a high-speed airboat or along the boardwalk at this 105-acre swampland.

“It was surreal,” says Gina McMellon, who visited last year.

“We had a great guide. I felt really safe. But some of (the alligators) were so enormous. To see these huge prehistoric-looking beasts,

it’s unbelievable … thrilling. I didn’t expect it to be that fun.”

Her tour guide, Tim Parker, says people are often surprised by what they find at the ranch because the alligators aren’t as aggressive as they are typically portrayed on television.

“We’ve got a 12-footer that will come right up to the boat, and you can pet him and feed him marshmallows. They love marshmallows,” he says. “You can even hold a baby gator, about two feet long, in your lap. People always say ‘how cute.’ ” Parker notes that the baby alligator’s jaw is kept safely shut with a rubber band. Cute or not, those teeth are still sharp.

the zoo for the first time 10 years ago and loved it so much they’ve returned every summer since.

“The lemurs are probably the most interactive,” Ekstrand says. “They want to steal your camera. They want to steal your hat. Here in California, we can go to a bigger zoo with more animals, with larger animals, but we can’t get that handson experience. In those 10 minutes (that) you might be in an encounter, you learn so much.”

That learning is why the zoo created these experiences, Little says. “Any opportunity to see animals in the real world can be a great experience, but encounters are a once-in-a-lifetime chance for most guests.

There’s nothing like looking into the eyes of an animal to make a personal connection.”

STAY: Hotel Indigo Orange Beach — Gulf Shores Guests enjoy convenient access to the beach, the gulf’s second-longest pier and miles of backcountry trails at this contemporary hotel. ▶ ihg.com/hotel indigo/hotels/us/ en/orange-beach/ orbit/hoteldetail

DINE: King Neptune’s Seafood Restaurant A local favorite, King Neptune’s has everything from po’boys to raw oysters. Looking for a deal? Choose one of their weekday lunch specials. ▶ kingneptune seafood restaurant.com

STAY: The Grand Magnolia Ballroom & Suites Book a room at this bed-and-breakfast for a taste of old-world elegance. The building sits on beautifully landscaped property in historic downtown Pascagoula. ▶ grandmagnolia.com

DINE: Jack’s by the Tracks Happy hour, sushi, tacos and live music are a few of the things locals and tourists alike enjoy at this no-frills juke joint. ▶ jacksbythetracks.com MARTI THORNTON

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

17

Go on Safari AT LOUISIANA’S GLOBAL WILDLIFE CENTER

SOUTH PADRE ISLAND CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

Watch Sea Turtles Released ON THE TEXAS COAST Imagine this: hundreds of baby turtles, smaller than your fist, scuttling across the sand toward the Gulf of Mexico. It’s unforgettable and worth rising at dawn to see, even if the invite tends to be last-minute.

When the tiny reptiles hatch at Sea Turtle Inc.’s rehabilitation center (seaturtleinc.org) at South Padre Island, word goes out via text and social media and well-wishers crowd the beach to send them off.

Kelly Pinion happened to be in town for a conference when she heard they were expecting a release any day. When her husband got the early morning alert, they headed to the beach, helping clear the seaweed to make a path for the hatchlings.

“The first little turtle got lifted into the tide, and we all cheered,” Pinion recalls. “There was one straggler who didn’t seem to want to go, but he made it, and we cheered again.

It was beautiful and humbling, just being a part of it.”

The hatchlings are embarking on the longest journey of their lives. Few will survive, only about 1 percent, says Mariana Devlin, conservation coordinator at Sea Turtle Inc., but those that do will return to South Padre Island to lay eggs in the same sand they hatched from. And the cycle will begin all over again.

STAY: Suntide III Condominiums Guests can enjoy gated access to two- or three-bedroom accommodations plus a private balcony overlooking the beach. ▶ suntideiii.com

The country’s largest free-roaming animal preserve, the Global Wildlife Center (globalwildlife.com) spans 900 acres. Located in Folsom, La., the center boasts nearly five times the town’s population if you count the 4,000 residents that include zebras, camels and bison.

But given that it’s so far off the beaten path for travelers, is it worth the detour?

“Absolutely yes,” says Frank Zaccagnini. “We make a yearly trip down to New Orleans, which is about an hour away, and it’s what I would consider one of the highlights of our New Orleans trip — and if you know New Orleans, that says a lot.”

Whether you opt for a private tour or public safari, the experience is truly global. You’ll see llamas and rheas from South America, oryx and giraffe from Africa, Perè David deer from Asia and bison from North America, says Victoria Johnson, education programs coordinator at the center.

Johnson recommends choosing the first tour of the day when the animals are ready for breakfast. Buy a cup or bag of feed, and you’re guaranteed to be popular. You may get licked, Zaccagnini says, but even that is part of the experience.

“The thing I found so magical is you’re so close to them,” he says. “There’s no way to describe it when you feel the side of a giraffe and her head is so smooth and her eyes so large and close to you. It’s awe-inspiring.”

STAY: Abita Springs Hotel The five-rooom Abita Springs Hotel has charming details such as a courtyard garden and a wraparound porch, plus complementary bike rentals. ▶ abitasprings hotel.com

DINE: Pier 19 Right on the pier, this restaurant serves up crab cakes, tacos and, for breakfast, Texas-size cinnamon rolls. Diners also have a great seat for pelican and dolphin spotting, boat watching and brilliant sunsets. ▶ pier19.us

DINE: Crabby Shack & Po-Boys Located in nearby Madisonville, this casual eatery serves local favorites in an eclectic venue lined with local art and memorabilia. ▶ crabbyshack andpoboys.com

GLOBAL WILDLIFE CENTER

18

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

19

H2O INSPIRATION Spark your creativity at coastal destinations where art and water mix

By Annette Thompson

B

EING AROUND LARGE BODIES

of water has a tendency to inspire creativity. Whether you take a sunset selfie on the ocean’s shore or paint a watercolor of bronze sea oats dancing in the breeze near sugary white sands, you’ll discover the connection between art and water. These hot spots provide a landscape of artsy options to create satisfying memories:

Little Room South Wall, Walter Anderson Museum of Art, Ocean Springs, Miss.

WALTER ANDERSON MUSEUM OF ART

20

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

H2O INSPIRATION

Coastal Arts Center GULF SHORES & ORANGE BEACH TOURISM

GULF SHORES AND ORANGE BEACH, ALA.

Walter Anderson Museum of Art WALTER ANDERSON MUSEUM OF ART

OCEAN SPRINGS, MISS. Imagine a waterfront village full of cottages nestled under shaggy live oaks. That’s Ocean Springs. A haven for artists, it’s home to Shearwater Pottery (shearwaterpottery.com) and the nearby Walter Anderson Museum of Art (walterandersonmuseum.org).

The Anderson family moved here in the 1920s and created Shearwater, producing pottery for display as well as utilitarian pieces. The museum is named for an Anderson son who spent his life illustrating the flora and fauna of the Mississippi coast.

There must have been something in the water in Ocean Springs, because other artists also made it home. You may find their works at the exquisite Hillyer House gallery (hillyerhouse.com), which represents more than 400 local, regional and national artists, as well as the fun and funky Art House, a co-op cottage. Looking for big-time art?

Make the 10-minute trip to Biloxi to the Frank Gehry-designed Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art (georgeohr.org).

With miles of white fluffy sand, you might not believe that these towns do more than provide necessities for the beach blanket set. Yet the Coastal Arts Center (orangebeachal.gov/facilities/ art-center), a harborside gallery, offers workshops to hone techniques. Resident potter Maya Blume-Cantrell shows you how to shape a bowl out of clay, while glass artist Kerry Parks guides visitors through the transformation of molten sand into a glass flower.

As the afternoon shadows lengthen, Alabama Point at Perdido Pass makes a lovely spot for a stroll to watch the boats return home. The best part of this creative day is that you’ll have your own art to bring home.

For overnights, stay at the Lodge at Gulf State Park (lodgeatgulfstatepark.com).

The contemporary-styled Hilton property sits on several miles of undeveloped beach. Step through the doors to the sand on one side for a stroll through rolling surf, or spin along 28 miles of trails on the other.

Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina (fishersobm.com) treats guests to amazing sunset views and fresh seafood dining in two ways. When you want to dress up, opt for a more formal setting upstairs. When flip-flops fit the bill, dine dockside overlooking the yachts. ▶ gulfshores.com

Pelicans on North Key WALTER ANDERSON MUSEUM OF ART

When the day slips toward evening, head toward the water. Ocean Springs hugs Davis Bayou Coastal Preserve complete with saltmarsh scenes.

Settle into a white-tablecloth dinner at Anthony’s Under the Oaks (facebook. com/anthonysundertheoaks), where

the views are as spectacular as the seafood. And don’t skimp on lodging.

Stay in the Art House at The Cottages of Rosetti Park (rosettipark.com). This two-bedroom gem features a pool, fireplace and solarium. ▶ gulfcoast.org

The Hot Shop GULF SHORES & ORANGE BEACH TOURISM

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

21

NEW ORLEANS Frenchmen Street night market

NEWORLEANS.COM

While New Orleans doesn’t have beaches, it’s still surrounded by plenty of water, including rivers and lakefronts.

It’s also one artsy town. Stroll Royal Street in the French Quarter and you will find 13 blocks of galleries, antiques and boutiques, as well as eateries and bars. The art ranges from affordable folk pieces to pricey masterworks.

In the Warehouse Arts District, art hounds sniff out the canvases along Julia Street, nicknamed Gallery Row. Of course, the arts continue to flourish along Magazine Street in the Garden District. Six miles of galleries, specialty shops and eateries cater to locals and visitors as well.

For open-air markets, don’t miss Jackson Square in the Quarter as well as Frenchmen Street in the evenings.

One way to skip the crowds and end the day on a calm note is to do a late-afternoon dinner at Cochon (cochonrestaurant.com), where oyster appetizers are elevated to fine art in the wooden ovens. Afterward, drive over to Crescent Park (crescentparknola.org) and watch the big red ball drop into the Mississippi River. Tuck into the Old 77 Hotel (old77hotel.com) at bedtime, but be sure to make time to check out its Royal Street Gallery with rotating art exhibits.

Downtown Pensacola

▶ neworleans.com

VISIT PENSACOLA

PENSACOLA, FLA.

After a day on the water, check into the elegant Tremont House (thetremonthouse.com), with roots back to 1839.

After sunset cocktails on the rooftop bar, walk over to Olympia Grill at Pier 21 (olympiagrill.com/pier-21), where the Kriticos brothers’ Greek-infused seafood is accompanied by unparalleled water views.

While the site of America’s oldest European settlement is full of history, its brick-paved sidewalks are full of art. A statue of Tristán de Luna, who began to colonize the town in 1559, sits downtown amid a monument that includes the flags of five governments (Spain, France, Britain, the Confederacy and the United States) that have ruled the city throughout its history. Galleries and museums in wrought iron-adorned buildings vie for attention from shoppers. Two artist co-ops, Blue Morning (bluemorninggallery. com) and Quayside (quaysidegallery.com), showcase locals’ acrylics, oils, photos and stained glass. The nearby Pensacola Museum of Art (pensacolamuseum.org) expands that vision with historic regional works. This gallery and learning center exhibits shows based on themes, such as the role of music in visual art or masks that explore how children want to present themselves.

Nature’s art is abundant around Pensacola, too. Visitors seek out sunsets at Fort Pickens in the Gulf Islands National Seashore (nps.gov/guis). Plop down a folding chair to watch the sun sink into the water while sailboats bob along the sea.

At nightfall, check into the Holiday Inn Express Downtown (holidayinn.com), within walking distance of galleries and pubs. For dinner, walk over to Union Public House (unionpensacola.com), a gastropub with handcrafted cocktails accompanying new Southern cuisine where the art is on the plate.

▶ galveston.com

▶ visitpensacola.com

Artist Boat IRENE AMIET/ARTIST BOAT

GALVESTON, TEXAS In the age of mashups (think yoga on a paddleboard), Artist Boat (artistboat. org) succeeds. Led by executive director Karla Klay, adventures combine kayaking with plein air painting — the art of painting outdoors. The combination might seem strange, but to Klay it’s natural. She grew up in the Florida Keys, then studied art and marine

biology. As someone who often takes to a kayak to illustrate nature, Artist Boat is her dream.

Guests paddle into wetlands to learn about the plants and creatures that live on the margins of the Gulf. Then, they pull out watercolor supplies and paint the ample subject matter: pelicans flying V formations, roseate spoonbills poking around and scuttling blue crabs.

22

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

23

THE REGION 25

ALABAMA

Get your fill of Mobile’s flavorful foods

28

FLORIDA

See small towns and scintillating sunsets

32

LOUISIANA

A celebration and Cajun charm in New Orleans

38

MISSISSIPPI

Aquatic adventures are abundant in Biloxi

44

TEXAS

Ring in the holiday season in Galveston

Antebellum mansion in New Orleans’ Garden District

NEW ORLEANS TRICENTENNIAL Throughout 2018, The Big Easy is celebrating its 300-year history with scores of special events, art exhibits, music, food and much more.

(See story on page 32.)

GETTY IMAGES

24

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

25

ALABAMA | MOBILE

Wintzell’s Oyster House PHOTOS BY WINTZELL’S OYSTER HOUSE

On the Menu Mobile’s burgeoning food scene is drawing national attention — and for good reason

That abundant history dates back to 1703, when the country’s first Mardi Gras celebration took place in HEN 32-YEAR-OLD Chris Andrews what is now present-day Mobile — 15 years before New was growing up in Mobile, Ala., his Orleans was founded. family never “Folks have been talking about went downtown. the historic side of Mobile for 300 “Everything was years, but lately they’re talking kind of boarded up,” he says. about the food,” Zieman says.

But over the past decade, those “Shrimp, blue crab, oysters and shuttered buildings have begun to more are as bountiful as they open their doors again. are succulent — and they come “We’ve had a few good mayors straight from our backyard: the who made downtown a priority,” Gulf of Mexico.”

West Indies Salad says Andrews, who created the That said, seafood isn’t the Bienville Bites Food Tour in Mobile. only delicacy on Mobile’s menus That strategy helped to revitalize these days. Whether you have a the city, bringing it in line with its rich culinary and hankering for down-home barbecue or are looking for a cultural history. Since 2008, the number of annual contemporary take on authentic cuisine, even the most visitors to Mobile has grown by 45 percent — and the discerning palates will enjoy eating their way through number of restaurants has nearly doubled, going from 28 this historic Alabama town. to 50, according to Tara Zieman, marketing and comCO NTI NUED munications manager for Visit Mobile.

By Susan Shain

W

26

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

ALABAMA | MOBILE

Carpetbagger fish and oysters, Felix’s Fish Camp COOPER RESTAURANTS (2)

BOUNTY OF THE BAY “When you talk about the food scene in Mobile, it revolves around oysters. It always has and always will,” Andrews says, adding that oysters were the primary food source for the area’s Native American tribes, and that nearby islands still have hills composed entirely of shells.

The bay’s oyster-filled past extends through the Civil War, when hungry soldiers were delighted to arrive in Mobile. “They came down here, and it was like a seafood buffet,” he says.

“They could scoop their hands out of the water and have a meal.”

To taste them for yourself, venture to one of the longest-running restaurants in town: Wintzell’s Oyster House. What began as a six-stool oyster bar in 1938 is now a Mobile institution.

The original downtown location oozes nostalgia, with walls plastered in hundreds of the founder’s homespun sayings.

Under signs like, “The best way to look young is to hang around older people,” you can enjoy the city’s signature dish: oysters, either fried, stewed or “nude” (raw).

While you’re there, try the West Indies Salad, a tangy combination of crab meat, onions and vinegar that originated in Mobile. O Magazine called Wintzell’s version one of the best things to eat in Alabama — and if you can’t

Felix’s Fish Camp

Meat Boss MEAT BOSS (2)

trust Oprah, who can you trust?

To sample more of the region’s bounty, head out onto the Causeway, a narrow highway that straddles Mobile Bay. Here, you’ll find several “fish camps” — establishments modeled after the tin shacks of fishermen — offering rustic charm paired with tasty seafood.

One of the most famous is Felix’s Fish Camp, which affords expansive views of the water — and resident gators Shelia and Big Brutus — from its panoramic windows. “The crab soup is to die for, as is pretty much everything else on the menu,” says Stacy Hamilton, former vice president of marketing and communications for Visit Mobile.

Loaded brisket burger, Meat Boss

THE NEW PITMASTERS While Mobile has always been known for its seafood, a relative newcomer is

making waves in the BBQ world, too. Meat Boss, a homey spot with license plates on the walls — and a constant line on its front porch — was recently named the best-loved barbecue in the state by Yelp.

“We baby our meat all night long,” says Dara Chinnis, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, Benny. She’s not exaggerating: Meat Boss has an overnight staff that tends the meat during its 12- to 14-hour smoking process, producing more than 2,000 pounds each week.

With a choose-your-own adventure menu, patrons can create their perfect combination of meat, starch, sauce, toppings and sides. “It’s like you’re coming into our house to eat,” says Chinnis. “We make it however you want it.”

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

27

ALABAMA | MOBILE

Grilled Pine Street Market Kielbasa, Southern National MATTHEW COUGHLIN

Southern National TED MILES PHOTOGRAPHY

MODERN SOUTHERN CHARM upholstery, retro light fixtures and a Like the downtown it inhabits, Mobile’s dramatic Alabama pine ceiling. restaurant scene has elevated itself in For down-home Southern cooking, recent years — while still staying true to look no further than Mama’s on Dauphin. its Southern roots.

Each weekday, it Take, for example, offers an enticing Southern National. lunch special: an Months after entree and two sides opening, this upscale for $8.95. You could spot was named a be treated to chicken semifinalist for a and dumplings, James Beard Award jambalaya or shrimp — the first restaurant creole, accompanied in Mobile to receive by sides like blacksuch a nod. eyed peas or fried “When I started okra. cooking, I never When you’re ready Chef Duane Nutter imagined I would be to hit the town, head part of something to Callaghan’s Irish MATTHEW COUGHLIN like a city’s transSocial Club, a neighformation,” says borhood watering chef Duane Nutter. “But as far as I’m hole that’s been serving up live music concerned, there’s only one way to cook and beer since 1946. While most bars — and that’s with a sense of place.” this fun might not typically be known for For Nutter, that sense of place has led their food, locals say Callaghan’s has the to contemporary takes on Southern clasbest cheeseburger, well, ever. sics, like grilled shrimp jalapeño Johnny “Mobile used to be a city that people Cakes, mussels and collard greens and passed through,” says Andrews. “But I “Kentuckyaki” braised short ribs. It’s think people are starting to recognize also contributed to the restaurant’s there are things to do here. And things casual, vintage vibe, complete with floral to eat.”

Shrimp po’boy, Callaghan’s Irish Social Club CHERYL SHIFFLET

Southern National TED MILES PHOTOGRAPHY

28

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

FLORIDA | SUNSETS

By Ben Abramson

S

Natural Beauty

UNSETS OVER THE GULF of Mexico

are a thing in Florida, from a full-on party atmosphere with cheering in Clearwater Beach to a low-key picnic on the shores of Sanibel Island. But not all Gulf sunsets are created equal. Here’s how to find an Instagram-worthy view:

Five tips to see a perfect Florida sunset

1

Clear skies tend to make a boring sunset: It’s always enjoyable to watch the glowing orb disappear over Florida’s azure waters, but on a clear day, the moment the sun is gone, the show is over.

Hence ...

2

It’s all about the clouds: To predict a dramatic sunset, look for clouds of various types, altitudes and colors. They’re the palette on which the sun works its magic. There’s always a risk that they’ll obscure the sun at just the wrong time and ruin the whole thing, but if they break just right, you’re in for a show. And if they do ...

3

Stick around after sunset: Many sunsetgoers head for the exits the moment the celestial event ends. Big mistake.

Fifteen minutes later, the skies become a crescendo of pinks, purples and oranges, as the last direct sunlight reflects off the clouds at higher altitudes. As a result ...

4

The best scenery may be in the opposite direction: While your eyes will be drawn to the ocean, the best part of the show is often over land. Central Florida has particularly dramatic weather, so turn your head to the east and you may see a massive wall of clouds resembling pink cotton candy or white snow-capped peaks. Plus, sunset rainbows are frequent and vivid.

5

Wildlife in action: Florida’s iconic marine and bird life are a big part of the show at Gulf Coast sunsets. At Venice’s South Jetty, dolphins feed on fish while pelicans dive-bomb from above. Egrets and herons pluck meals from the shoreline and fly by on their way to nesting islands.

Manatees munch on sea grasses along the breakwater. It’s as magical as it sounds.

Bonus tip: “What time is sunset?” is a question Siri always handles well.

GETTY IMAGES

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

29

30

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

FLORIDA | QUAINT TOWNS PINE ISLAND On this 18-mile-long slice of Old Florida, you’re more likely to see an actual bobcat (we did) than Mickey Mouse.

Book a room at the family-owned Tarpon Lodge (tarponlodge. com) and get your nature fix: There’s the Calusa Heritage Trail (floridamuseum.ufl. edu/rrc/visit/trail), an interpretive path at the site of a former Calusa Indian Village, and the Great Calusa Blueway (fortmyers-sanibel. com/calusablueway), a 190-mile paddling trail of hidden lagoons and tangles of mangrove teeming with life. Or take a boat ride to Cabbage Key (visitflorida. com/en-us/cities/ cabbage-key.html) — a true “cheeseburger in paradise” spot festooned with customers’ dollar bills.

Pine Island is a veritable grove of lychee, citrus, avocado, mango, guava, dragon fruit and other tropical fruits, so count on having a juicy chin during your visit. ▶ pineislandchamber. org

Cabbage Key BEACHES OF FORT MYERS AND SANIBEL

Finding Old Florida Explore places in the Sunshine State where time stands still

By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

Q

UICK! WHEN SOMEONE SAYS Florida, what

comes to mind? Sexy South Beach, sugarspun sand, perhaps a certain pants-wearing mouse? It’s no wonder these attractions are on

the list, but there’s another side to the Sunshine State, where the only crowds you’ll encounter are at the local fishing pier, and sandy trails lead to jungles of live oak, strangler fig and gumbo limbo trees. Think charming “olde” inns and mom and pop shops, not glitzy hotels and designer boutiques. In fact, the

nearest Walmart might be an hour away. Who knew you could go that far off the beaten path in Florida?

These enchanting pockets are easy to come by along Florida’s Gulf Coast. Here’s a look at the sweet, tiny towns that time might have forgotten — but that you’ll remember forever:

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

31

FLORIDA | QUAINT TOWNS CEDAR KEY Although this pleasantly quirky seaside community (population about 800) sits 50 miles southwest of Gainesville, some say it feels like Key West back in the day. Restaurants and shops on stilts rise above the Gulf of Mexico; meanwhile, the Island Hotel & Restaurant (islandhotel-cedarkey.com) — a former brothel that is said to be haunted — serves as the unofficial town square.

But the real action happens offshore. Connect with an outfitter such as Tidewater Tours (tidewatertours.com) or rent a kayak and explore the 13 islands of Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge (fws.gov/refuge/cedar_keys), an aviary and aquatic wonderland. ▶ cedarkey.org

Matlacha gift shop BEACHES OF FORT MYERS AND SANIBEL

MATLACHA

Cedar Key CEDAR KEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

You’ll be snapping photos like crazy at Matlacha (pronounced mat-luh-SHAY), a colorful jumble of art galleries and bait shops. This artsy little island off the coast of Fort Myers — connected to the mainland by a causeway — is a mere 1 mile wide and 1 mile long, but it’s home to about 30 galleries. (Two not to miss: Wild Child Art Gallery (wildchildartgallery.com) and Leoma Lovegrove gallery and gardens (leomalovegrove.com). Meet the local artists in their eye-popping studios, and maybe try your luck at what is known as the most “fishingest bridge in the world.” Or cut right to the chase and nab a seat at the Olde Fish House Marina (oldefishhousematlacha.com) restaurant.

Expect spicy fish chowder, frosty beers, a couple of guys singing Jimmy Buffett covers and the metallic ping of halyards against sailboat masts. What could be better? ▶ fortmyers-sanibel.com

APALACHICOLA AND ST. GEORGE ISLAND

Boca Grande beach house BEACHES OF FORT MYERS AND SANIBEL

BOCA GRANDE They say that pirate Jose Gaspar buried treasure along the 7-mile coastline of Boca Grande. Maybe the real treasure is the island itself, a throwback to a gentler time. Although it’s easily drivable from Fort Myers and Sarasota, Boca Grande has a definite Palm Beach vibe, thanks to the preppy-posh presence of the century-old Gasparilla Inn & Club (the-gasparilla-inn.com), open seasonally. Dress in your best Lily Pulitzer prints and Nantucket Reds shorts — they’ll go nicely with the inn’s sherbet-hued décor and white wicker chairs. There’s the requisite, circa 1890 lighthouse at Gasparilla Island State Park (floridastateparks.org) and a bike path. The inn also features a golf course, tennis courts, croquet lawns and the beach club. Most people get around on golf carts, the perfect way to shift into island time. ▶ bocagrandechamber.com

Are oysters one of your four main food groups? Put Apalachicola (“Apalach,” locally) on your must-see list: 90 percent of the oysters sold in Florida are sourced from local waters. Sampling these briny bivalves would make it worth the 80-mile trip from Tallahassee, but there’s more to discover. Tiny Apalachicola (population 2,300 or so) was once the third-largest port on the Gulf of Mexico.

For a glimpse of its storied past, wander Apalachicola’s National Historic District, lined with 900-plus historic homes, plus a 19th-century ship’s chandlery and net factories that now house shops and restaurants. Even the Cape St. George Lighthouse (stgeorgelight.org) has a story: It collapsed into the sea in 2005, and volunteers painstakingly restored it.

Join locals for a monthly full moon climb of the 92 stairs. Bonus: The beaches here are exquisite. ▶ apalachicolabay.org

32

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

LOUISIANA | NEW ORLEANS

Tricentennial Celebration The Big Easy marks 300 years with a bevy of festivities

By Stacey Zable

T

HE YEAR 1718 WAS an important

one for New Orleans, making 2018 significant as well, with the city paying homage to its 300-year-old past.

Visitors can take advantage of select hotels, restaurants and attractions offering special deals in honor of the city’s tricentennial. Here are a few: The New Orleans Tricentennial Package at the Royal Sonesta New Orleans (sonesta.com) features deluxe rates that start at $300 for a two-night stay. Be sure to stop at the hotel’s Desire Oyster Bar for happy hour weekdays from 3-6 p.m. Enjoy $5 house cocktails and wine, $4 import drafts, $3 domestic drafts and $1 oysters.

At the inaugural Fête des Fromages (fetedes

fromages.com) at the Old U.S. Mint building and grounds in the French Quarter from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Nov. 1, cheese lovers can indulge in choices from France and the U.S., while Francophiles can delight in French wines, music and more. Ticket prices start at $25 per adult.

The New Orleans Museum of Art (noma.org/ exhibitions/the-orleans-collection) is showing pieces from the personal collection of French Regent, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, after whom the city was named in 1718. “The Orléans Collection” runs through Jan. 27.

Before you leave the city, take a selfie with one of the 7-foot-tall NOLA 300 art installations at City Park, Washington Artillery Park and Woldenberg Park.

Find more tricentennial information at 2018nola.com.

PAUL BROUSSARD; ROYAL SONESTA NEW ORLEANS; NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART/ MARGAUX KRANE

Visitors can celebrate the city’s 300th birthday with a special package at the Royal Sonesta hotel, exclusive exhibits at the New Orleans Museum of Art and much more.

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

33

34

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

LOUISIANA | ACADIANA

TRIP TIPS

The Chimes restaurant, Covington, La. LOUISIANANORTHSHORE.COM

Cajun Charm Louisiana’s Acadiana bursts with luxe lodging, wild wonders and decadent cuisine

By Sam Boykin

L

IKE MANY, I ASSOCIATED Louisiana

with New Orleans and its famed Mardi Gras. But I discovered a different side of the state when our family explored the area southwest of The Big Easy along the Gulf Coast. Amid expansive lakes, wildlife preserves and fascinating historical sites is true Cajun country.

Known as Acadiana, the region covers 22 southern Louisiana parishes. Many residents

are direct descendants of French colonists who settled in Louisiana after they were exiled from present-day Nova Scotia by the British in the 1700s. There’s a strong sense of pride and tradition among the people, and it shows in their food, love of the outdoors and friendly, welcoming nature.

Lake Charles, one of the largest cities in the state, is a great base for exploring this vibrant area. During our visit, we experienced top-notch cuisine, eclectic accommodations and a bounty of wildlife. As you road trip your

way through Cajun country, consider these top attractions and activities:

ACCOMMODATIONS Gaming is one of the top draws in Lake Charles, and L’Auberge Casino Resort (llakecharles.com) is the ideal place to let the good times roll while enjoying deluxe digs.

The AAA four-diamond property is situated on 242 acres along scenic Contraband Bayou.

CONTINUED

Situated along the Bogue Falaya River in Covington, The Chimes specializes in Louisianacentric comfort food. Popular options include chargrilled oysters and poboys. The casual eatery also has nearly 80 beers on tap.

During your stay at Fontainebleau State Park, rent kayaks from Bayou Adventure and paddle from your cabin to the nearby park pavilion, where you can play on a sandy beach and stroll along the boardwalk.

Lake Charles, known as the “Festival Capital of Louisiana,” hosts special events throughout the year, including the Fur & Wildlife Festival (Jan. 11-12) in downtown Cameron.

A southwest Louisiana favorite since 1955, the event highlights the local natural resources in the area with parades, pageants, dances, Cajun music, exhibits and a carnival.

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

35

36

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

LOUISIANA | ACADIANA The Southern Hotel (southernhotel.com) in the quaint town of Covington oozes Louisiana charm and history. Located on the north coast of Lake Pontchartrain opposite New Orleans, it opened in 1907 but shuttered in the 1960s and was used for other purposes until 2014, when it reopened as a hotel after an $8 million renovation that preserved its historic character while adding modern amenities. Today, the hotel boasts an upscale restaurant and bar, pool, spa and regional art collection.

Grosse Savanne Eco-Tours YVETTE CARDOZA

Egret on Creole Nature Trail LINDSEY JANIES PHOTOGRAPHY

Fresh oysters at Shucks KENT HUTSLAR/SHUCKS

With roughly 1,000 rooms, the 26-story hotel boasts a 70,000-square-foot casino with 70 table games and more than 1,550 slots. After you’re done flirting with Lady Luck, enjoy a delectable fireside meal at the resort’s Ember Grille & Wine Bar, a modern steakhouse that boasts an impressive 240-bottle wine selection.

Afterward, indulge in a relaxing massage or lounge in the whirlpool at the on-site Spa Du Lac.

NATURE We saw loads of wildlife, including alligators, shorebirds and monarch butterflies, during our two-hour adventure through secluded marshes with Grosse Savanne Eco-Tours (grossesavanne-ecotours.com), situated on more than 50,000 diverse, rugged acres in Cameron and Calcasieu parishes.

The area’s abundant wildlife includes 28 species of mammals, 35 species of amphibians and reptiles, 132 species of fish and more than 300 species of birds.

The 180-mile Creole Nature Trail All-American Road (visitlakecharles.org/ creole-nature-trail) is known as the “Louisiana Outback” and runs through the heart of Grosse Savanne’s vast property. The road spans a richly diverse landscape and has dozens of outlooks and walkways where you can explore freshwater and saltwater marshes, cypress swamps, native coastal prairies and pine forest plantations.

DINING Enjoy award-winning gumbo (served with chicken, sausage and dark roux with rice on the side) while rubbing elbows with the locals at Seafood Palace (facebook.com/seafoodpalace), a popular spot for traditional Cajun food.

Owner David Papania is the man behind the scenes, while his childhood friend, chef Scott Landry, who hosts comedy cooking shows all over the country, chats up guests. “We get our crabs and shrimp fresh every day from the Gulf,” says Landry. “People come from all over to try our gumbo. It will change your life.”

A trip wouldn’t be complete without visiting Vermilion Parish, which bills itself as “The Most Cajun Place on Earth.”

Located in the historic downtown of Abbeville, the parish seat about 80 miles east of Lake Charles, is Shucks (shucksrestaurant.com), an authentic seafood house founded in 1995.

“Everyone here — our cooks, servers, managers — (is) Cajun,” says co-owner David Bertrand. “We’re the real deal.”

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

37

38

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

MISSISSIPPI | BILOXI

Biloxi Lighthouse AARON LUETZEN

MARITIME MARVELS

Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum VISIT MISSISSIPPI GULF COAST

Winter Water Fun Splash into aquatic excursions in the ‘Playground of the South’

By Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

H

UGGING THE GULF OF Mexico, with nearly 30 miles of beaches, Biloxi, Miss., lives up to its reputation as a warm weather resort paradise with lots of boating, fishing and water sports. But don’t think you

have to wait for summer to enjoy this historic waterfront town. With balmy temps and a year-round maritime history that stretches back to Biloxi’s settlement in 1699, visitors can dip into watery adventures any time of the year. From river cruises to the signature Christmas on the Water boat parade, this Gulf Coast hot spot keeps the fun flowing.

Discover Biloxi’s storied boat-building and seafood industry heritage at the Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum, which includes exhibits, a theater and a schooner pier complex.

Start in the Grand Hall, which holds the 1800s-era sloop, the Nydia. Constructed from cypress and steam-bent oak, the vessel showcases the ultimate in Biloxi boat building, according to Robin Krohn David, the museum’s executive director. Browse through artifacts that include a shrimppeeling machine and watch videos about the effects of hurricanes Camille and Katrina. For a fully immersive experience, hop aboard a “White Winged Queen,” a Biloxi oyster schooner replica.

Continue your nautical journey at the Biloxi Lighthouse, which rises above the Mississippi Sound and the Gulf of Mexico. Built in 1848 and one of the South’s first cast-iron lighthouses, the Biloxi Lighthouse survived the Civil War as well as the region’s deadliest hurricanes and has grown into a symbol of the strength and resilience of Mississippians. The only U.S. lighthouse that stands in the middle of a four-lane highway, the Biloxi Lighthouse is also one of the most photographed landmarks on the Gulf Coast.

Climb the spiral staircase and grab the best panoramic views of the coastline.

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

39

40

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

MISSISSIPPI | BILOXI

IF YOU GO Bursting with warmth and fresh food, Shaggy’s is a Biloxi essential. Perched on the beach and filled with funky seaside accents, the eatery’s menu includes a crab cake sandwich, The Big Pig (pulled pork) and the fish of the day. shaggys.biz

Wildlife demonstration

Rhodes Bayou Pier

Located in a landmark building, Mary Mahoney’s dishes up elegant seafood plates such as shrimp and crab au gratin and flounder imperial, served in the French colonial house, circa 1737. Surrounded by a courtyard and live oak trees, Mary Mahoney’s has been a Biloxi classic for more than 50 years. marymahoneys.com

Pascagoula River Audubon Center

Brimming with history and beachfront beauty, White House Hotel dates back to the 1890s and serves up Southern hospitality with a rooftop terrace, landscaped front lawn and seafood-centered Gulf Coast cuisine at Cora’s Restaurant & Bar. whitehousebiloxi. com Revel in Biloxi’s well-established gaming and nightlife culture at the Beau Rivage Resort & Casino. Like a city within a city, the Beau Rivage boasts spacious, well-appointed rooms, a 1,595-seat theater, two chic lounges, high-end shopping, lavish décor and Gulf views. beaurivage.com

Historic restored Scout Hut

Betsy Ann Riverboat PASCAGOULA RIVER AUDUBON CENTER (4); ROBERT SMITH

RIVER WAYS Visit the Pascagoula River Audubon Center and dive into the distinctive ecosystem of the river and neighboring habitats.

The center celebrates the largest, free-flowing river in the lower contiguous states and features nature-based art galleries, demonstration gardens and nature trails. A winding boardwalk leads to the bayou, which offers kayak and boat tours. Keep a sharp eye out for owls, egrets and alligators along the way. There’s no better way to connect with Biloxi’s water culture than to hop aboard a boat, and the Betsy Ann Riverboat offers the ultimate trip. As one of the country’s last remaining stern wheel paddleboats, the Betsy Ann floats along the Mississippi Gulf Coast allowing passengers to take in the beauty of the Biloxi Bay. The open-air upper deck and the enclosed cabin host sunset, dinner and historical cruises for all seasons.

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

41

42

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

MISSISSIPPI | BILOXI

Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art

FOR LANDLUBBERS “The Mississippi Gulf Coast checks all the boxes: great food, great weather, great prices, great people and great way of life,” says Anna Roy, media relations manager for the Mississippi Gulf Coast Regional Convention & Visitors Bureau. That vibrant way of life is highlighted by the Rue Magnolia Arts District, an eclectic collection of galleries and shops anchored by the Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art. The museum, designed

by Frank Gehry, houses an unusual collection of pottery from George Ohr — “the mad potter of Biloxi” — as well as photos documenting Biloxi’s African-American cultural history. For more art and gifts, check out Gallery 782 and Almost Circle Gallery.

Blues music is as much a part of Biloxi as the water, so head to the open-air revelry of Murky Waters Blues N’ BBQ and snack on the signature burnt ends (pieces of smoked brisket) while listening to live performances.

For seasonal celebrations, don’t miss the Christmas on the Water boat parade, which displays illuminated boats with Santa leading the way, on Dec. 1 or the Gulfport Harbor Lights Winter Festival in neighboring Gulfport, from Nov. 23 to Dec. 31.

Whether offshore or on, Biloxi delivers a good time.

Museum exterior AARON LUETZEN

Mad Potter mugs

Pottery STEVE BEAUDET (3)

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

43

44

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

TEXAS | GALVESTON

Winter Wonder Island In the heart of Texas’ Gulf Coast, Galveston goes big during the holidays

Ice Land sculptures MOODY GARDENS (2); GALVESTON CVB

By Connie Hum

R

ADIATING WITH SOUTHERN CHARM, a

rich history and temperate weather, Galveston, Texas, is a destination unlike any other. With a sprawling beach, a bevy of stunning Victorian mansions, delicious local seafood and a picturesque pier complete with roller coasters lighting up the night sky, this city island on the balmy Gulf Coast is a treat to visit anytime of year — but during the winter this city transforms itself into a true “Winter Wonder Island” with more than 50 days of holiday

festivities and fun.

Moody Gardens, Galveston’s premier tourist destination, hosts eight distinct holiday attractions to celebrate the season. One of its most popular is Ice Land, a 28,000-square-foot display made up of more than 2 million pounds of ice chiseled by an award-winning team of master carvers from Harbin, China. It features detailed ice sculptures, ice slides and even an ice bar. This year’s theme, Pole-to-Pole, will wow crowds with awe-inspiring sculptures of animals from the North and South Poles.

Those feeling too much of a chill inside Ice Land can step out for

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

45

TEXAS | GALVESTON the Festival of Lights, a mile-long walking trail of more than 100 thrilling sound-enhanced animated displays made up of more than 1 million lights.

Other offerings at Moody Gardens include an outdoor ice skating rink and immersive 3D holiday film screenings. The seasonal events at Moody Gardens begin Nov. 17 and run through Jan. 6.

Four gorgeous homes feted in holiday décor in the East End Historical District will open their doors to visitors during the evening of Nov. 30 for the annual Victorian Holiday Homes Tour. In addition to guests marveling at the interior of these architectural beauties, the homeowners and volunteer docents share details on each elegant home’s distinct characteristics.

According to Jeff Patterson, president of the East End Historical District Association, the Holiday Homes Tour is special because “each home has its own style.”

From Nov. 30 to Dec. 2, Galveston travels through time to a Victorian wonderland with the annual Dickens on the Strand street festival. With parades, costumed vendors peddling Victorian wares and libations, roving musicians and a roster of era-inspired entertainers, attendees are transported back to the 19th century.

Revelers who come dressed in their best Victorian or Dickensianesque attire receive a discount on their admission and are encouraged to enter the popular costume CO NTI NUED

Tour omes H y a d oli rian H Victo

MAKE A WEEKEND OF IT

Indulge in fresh baked goods and country-style dishes at the quaint Sunflower Bakery & Cafe. thesunflowerbakery andcafe.com Dine alfresco on fresh island-style burgers, tacos and po’boys at local favorite The Spot, which boasts panoramic gulf views. thespot.island famous.com Head to the historic downtown district for delicious grilled seafood and steaks with a South American twist at Rudy & Paco, voted one of the Top 100 Restaurants in America by OpenTable users. rudyandpaco.com

Experience world-class dining, a gorgeous pool and beautiful beach-facing rooms at the luxurious San Luis Hotel. sanluisresort.com

Hotel Galvez MITCHELL HISTORIC PROPERTIES; GALVESTON CVB; DAVID CANRIGHT

Enjoy old-world style and service at the iconic Hotel Galvez, the only historic beachfront hotel on the Texas Gulf Coast. hotelgalvez.com

46

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

TEXAS | GALVESTON

Surfing Santa at Schlitterbahn water park’s Holiday Splash GALVESTON CVB (3)

ights al of L Festiv

Festival o f Lights

contest.

“The main draw of Dickens on the Strand is to experience a different time and place,” says Will Wright, director of marketing and special events at the Galveston Historical Foundation.

For some wet and wild festive fun, the Schlitterbahn indoor water park will host its annual Holiday Splash celebration Nov. 17 to Dec. 30. Park guests can participate in activities including floating in tubes through a giant snow globe, enjoying an animated light display set to classic Christmas tunes and catching some waves with a surfing Santa.

The iconic Grand 1894 Opera House celebrates the holiday season with a number of exciting performances, including the annual production of The Nutcracker by the City Ballet of Houston on Dec. 15-16. Ballet enthusiasts are invited

to attend The Nutcracker Afternoon Tea on Dec. 15 to meet and take photos with the dancers. Other performances include A Charlie Brown Christmas Live on Stage, Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol and All Is Calm: The Christmas Truce of 1914, a heartrending retelling of a true event in which Allied troops and German forces laid down their weapons to celebrate Christmas together during World War I. Jolly old Saint Nick invites one and all inside his workshop every Saturday in December for Cheer on the Pier. Santa will be available at the Galveston Island Historic Pleasure Pier for photos and holidaythemed activities for the family.

With so many events and attractions that turn Galveston into a true winter wonder island, this destination should top any traveler’s list this holiday season.

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

47

48

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION