St. Michaels, Md., offers seaside charm

BY TRACY SCOTT FORSON

Nestled along the Eastern Shore in Talbot County, St. Michaels is a quintessential Maryland town that seamlessly mixes American history, coastal culture and some of the state’s signature attractions — specifically, shoreline and seafood.

Just a few hours drive from Washington, D.C., (about 80 miles) or Philadelphia (122 miles), St. Michaels sits serenely on the Chesapeake Bay and is a whole world away from its more boisterous Delmarva Peninsula sibling, Ocean City.

The town’s colonial history is evident from the moment you arrive. Established as a trading post in the mid-1600s, many of today’s businesses reside inside buildings reminiscent of 17th-century homes. What the intimate settings lack in square footage, they make up for in charm, lending themselves to conversations with fellow customers and owners, like Fran Neaton, general manager of American Holiday home furnishings.

Neaton opened the décor store eight years ago, and has since expanded her footprint to include two more St. Michaels shops, Knotty Living and A Little Knotty. As in other nearby boutiques, visitors can find unique clothing, home accessories, artwork and jewelry made by local artisans.

“We have several art galleries, and most of our shops have art from local and regional artists,” says Kimberly Weller, communications manager for the town.

Hopkins Original Art on Talbot Street, one of the town’s main strips, sells sketches, paintings and prints by Maryland artist Ryan Hopkins, who owns the store with his wife, Susan.

“St. Michaels is perfect for us — small and intimate,” says Susan, whose store mimics the area’s carefree vibe. The artwork, including coastal images of horizons and crustaceans, also reflects the region.

The gallery opened five years ago, and before long, the

The jumbo crab is a recurring theme in the works of former architect Ryan Hopkins, who creates original sketches, paintings, prints and photographs at his Hopkins Original Art gallery. Hopkinses added a new Eliza Bailey Mitchell: Both attraction: a room of resided in St. Michaels as records. slaves. See real skipjacks,

“In the ’80s, (Ryan) kayaks and other boats started collecting vinyl in the At Play on the Bay records. We had more building and in the Small than 3,000. The store has Boat Shed. a back room that’s pretty For vehicles of another large. We put in a record kind, there’s the Classic player and speakers, and Motor Museum, which people come and dance,” features a rotating exhibit Susan explains. “You have of 20 memorable autoto leave mobiles, happier including because it’s a 1910 Interart and national music. Harvester There’s no and a 1925 stress here.” Model-T.

Through Executive September, one of the Classic Motor Museum director Sarah town’s most Reichard popular at- says tractions, the Chesapeake motoring is a big part of Bay Maritime Museum the history and culture of (CBMM), is featuring the the area. “As soon as that artwork of another Mary- (Chesapeake) Bay Bridge lander, David Harp, whose opened up in the ’50s, photos of the bay’s people people just immediately and places occupy the up- started touring and taking per level of the museum’s motor days. It became a Steamboat Building. destination area for that,” Cranes, crabs, catchers, she says. kayaks, coastlines and In addition to displaying canals tell the story of life and preserving classic along the Eastern Shore. vehicles, the museum

The museum’s perma- hosts a student chapter of nent exhibits include its the Antique Automobile Hooper Strait Lighthouse, Club of America. “Students an 1879 structure that come in here two weekvisitors can climb to ends of the month and experience how keepers just learn how things are once lived. It was originally working,” says Reichard. stationed in the middle of There’s also a scholarship the bay, but now watches for high school graduates over the waters from the going into fields related to shores of the CBMM. automobiles and financial

Outdoor exhibits support for teens who include the Floating Fleet can’t afford driver’s educaof historic vessels, the tion, she explains. “We’ll waterman’s wharf crab have a lot more, hopefully, shanty and the recon- opportunities to do things structed Mitchell House, like that.” the home of abolitionist Few things are as Frederick Douglass’ sister, symbolic of Maryland >

as driving across the Bay Bridge, but picking steamed, Old Bay-seasoned crabs by the sea is an equally iconic activity, and visitors have plenty of opportunities to experience it in St. Michaels.

Steps from the CBMM, the Crab Claw sits on the shore, offering outdoor dining of fresh seafood, burgers, chicken wings and other fare. Grab a cocktail or a beer and enjoy the view from the patio.

If crustaceans aren’t your thing, Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar is a popular alternative, serving custom-made, brick-oven baked pies. The wide variety of menu options includes a meatball appetizer, the meatless Mediterranean pizza and a turkey club sandwich. Sit at the bar, on the patio or inside where you may see your order pulled straight from the oven.

Limoncello Italian Restaurant & Wine Bar also comes highly recommended by locals. Dine on Risotto di Manzo made with mignon tips, caramelized onions, wild mushrooms and Gorgonzola or the vegetarian Penne Norma, made with eggplant.

To quench your thirst, Weller recommends visiting the “trifecta of booze” at the town’s Historic Mill. At Lyon Rum, CEO

The blue crab is integral to Maryland’s seafood industry, which earns $600 million annually for the state. Learn more about St. Michaels’ contribution at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.

and founder Jaime Windon sells flights that serve as a gateway to purchasing full bottles of her award-winning varieties, including the popular, more traditional dark rum and the distinct, seasonal pineapple rum.

Nearby is Eastern Shore Brewing, the oldest brewery in the region, where customers can enjoy a cold one while playing a game of hook-and-ring toss or foosball. For those who prefer pinot over pale ales, St. Michaels Winery offers a citrusy, medium-bodied pinot gris and red wine options, including malbec and merlot.

“We opened our tasting room in the Old Mill district of St. Michaels and started producing our first three wines,” says Lindsay Greenwood, marketing and events director for the winery. “We have expanded that listing over the years and take pride in the fact that we have wines for every palate.”

In summer months, St. Michaels’ waters become a hub of activity, including kayaking and paddleboarding, and on land, there are trails for hiking and biking. It’s common to see people sitting in Adirondack chairs that dot the yards of bed-and-breakfast inns, and tour cruises speckling the waters.

“What I believe makes us unique is the incredible quality and variety you will find here and the beauty of our teeny-tiny historic waterfront town,” says Keller. “It is truly an escape from the hustle of people’s lives in the cities near to us.” l