4 minute read
From Italy to Louisiana
The Delicious Fusion of Italian-American Cuisine.
BY JYL BENSON
DELICIOUSLY STEEPED IN HISTORY and bursting with flavor, The Northshore’s Sicilian and Italian dining scene invites visitors to savor a mouthwatering journey that blends Old World traditions with Louisiana’s vibrant soul.
People of Sicilian heritage started immigrating to New Orleans in the 1830s. Their numbers swelled considerably following the Civil War, when the Louisiana Bureau of Immigration was created to grow Louisiana’s population. Most would start planting operations, greengrocers, markets and pasta factories. The Lower French Quarter was known as “Little Palermo,” where more people spoke the Sicilian dialect than any place outside of Palermo itself, and the French Market was one of the country’s largest pasta hubs.
With growing conditions similar to those of their native Sicily, the immigrants could grow what they needed to reproduce their native cuisine, which relied on seafood, garlic, bell peppers, tomatoes, olive oil, eggplant, pasta and artichokes. Ultimately, people of Northern Italian descent made their way to the area, bringing food using ingredients found in their mountainous territories—polenta, cheese, butter, cream sauces and game meats. A natural merging with New Orleans’ established Creole cookery occurred, leading to the evolution of the fantastic cuisine we regard as “Creole-Italian,” whereby the French technique was merged with foundationally Italian ingredients. For “red gravy,” tomato paste is browned like flour for a roux; garlic-laden, French-inspired Bordelaise sauce is served atop pasta; crawfish in a cream sauce may be ladled over medallions of eggplant coated in Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs before they are fried then served next to a tangle of spaghetti or over polenta.
As New Orleans’ population grew, many people of Italian descent made their homes on The Northshore, where numerous Sicilian and Italian restaurants thrive.
Sal Impastato opened Sal & Judy’s in 1974. It remains a destination for diners throughout the region who show up for specialties like Spitini (thinly sliced pork loin medallions rolled around ham, provolone, seasonings and tomato relish) and Brucioloni (round steak rolled around a breaded stuffing of cheese, Italian sausage and ground beef then simmered in tomato sauce. 27491 Hwy. 190, Lacombe (985) 882-9443, salandjudys.com
At Del Porto in Covington, chefs David and Torre Solazzo have been turning out rustic Italian fare and hand-made pasta since 2014, making it a neighborhood favorite and a destination for the entire metro area. The menu changes seasonally. Ask for a table on the sidewalk for prime people watching in this picturesque small town. 501 E. Boston St., Covington (985) 875-1006, delportoristorante.com
A native of Sicily, Chef Leonardo Giarraputo opened Leonardo’s Trattoria and Pizzeria in 2017. Pizzas, salads and pasta dishes are served all day. Sandwiches are available at lunch. 2625 Florida St., Mandeville (985) 778-2550, leonardostrattoria.com
Nuvolari’s has been a Northshore institution for over 40 years. Specialties like rigatoni alla vodka, lobster caramelle and braised lamb shoulder are served against a backdrop of exquisite wood detailing and etched windows overlooking ivy-covered garden walls. 246 Girod St., Mandeville (985) 626-5619, nuvolaris.com
Like many Italian restaurants, nearby Marcello’s blurs the line between the cuisines of northern and southern Italy. The menu changes frequently but may include spinach and pork cannelloni; lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs with bolognese sauce; veal or chicken molli is served scaloppini style, with roasted artichokes, lemon butter and capers.324 E. Boston St., Covington (985) 400-5668, marcelloscovington.com
With a waterfront location in Slidell, Joe's Ristorante is a popular choice. The chicken piccata (sautéed chicken breast in white wine, lemon, butter sauce with capers) is top notch. 300 Oak Harbor Blvd., Slidell (985) 326-8637, joesristorante.com
From the bustling tables of family-owned trattorias to celebrated culinary destinations, discover dishes inspired by generations of Italian and Sicilian immigrants who brought their cherished recipes to New Orleans, and later to The Northshore. Buon appetito!
