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Shucking up Flavor

Top Places for Oysters in Louisiana’s Easy Escape.

BY JYL BENSON

Perhaps Ernest Hemingway said it best in A Moveable Feast, his brilliant ode to life and food in 1920s Paris:

“As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy, and to make plans.”

Like Hemingway, those in Louisiana regard oysters highly for their simple, delicate perfection. We swoon for plump, briny little mollusks that conjure thoughts of sensual delight when served shimmering and naked in the raw, blended into a luscious soup, charbroiled with rich butter or fried and smothered between two pieces of warm, toasty French bread. The old tale of oysters being “in season” during months with an “r” in them and less desirable in warmer months (not that September is not, indeed, warm) was discredited long ago. That said, there is still something magical about tucking into a pile of savory goodness with the first blush of cooler weather.

HERE ARE A FEW FAVORITE PLACES TO ENJOY OYSTERS IN A VARIETY OF FORMS:

Half Shell Oyster House has a particularly lengthy selection of oyster preparations on the menu and a full raw bar. Can’t decide? Try the oyster sampler with three of each: Charbroiled, Oysters Bienville, Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters Orleans (charbroiled with a smoky Cajun sauce). The Chef's Special features Oysters Bienville, topped with Orleans sauce and Parmesan cheese. 70367 LA-21 Ste. 100, Covington, halfshelloysterhouse.com

In addition to cold ones on the half shell and classic charbroiled preparations at Don’s Seafood, check out the Jacked-up Oysters that are charbroiled with bacon, jalapeños and pepper jack cheese. 126 Lake Drive, Covington, donsseafoodonline.com

Oysters are a popular choice at The Blue Crab Restaurant & Oyster Bar and include varieties on the half shell as bracing shooters or chargrilled with butter, cheeses and herbs. Head in for Happy Hour Wednesday-Friday, 4-6 PM. 118 Harbor View Ct., Slidell, thebluecrabnorthshore.com

In addition to an outdoor oyster bar overlooking Lake Pontchartrain, Pat’s Rest Awhile features a variety of dining and drinking experiences on one campus: the Frapart dining room, Hadden Cottage, Sophie Tavern, The Deck and the Courtyard. 2129 Lakeshore Drive, Mandeville, patsrestawhile.com

Overlooking the Tchefuncte River, Morton’s is a longtime favorite. Try the Twisted Chargrilled Oysters, which combine garlic, butter, breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese with cooked oysters and are served with toast points. 702 Water St., Madisonville, mortonsseafood.com

Buster’s Place Restaurant and Oyster Bar claims to be The Northshore’s oldest oyster bar. Located right in downtown Covington, their menu features chilled and chargrilled oysters by both the dozen and half-dozen as well as a variety of Buster’s Big Salads that are primed to be topped with some fried pieces of heaven. 519 E. Boston St., Covington, bustersplaceonline.com

Pat's Rest Awhile
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