SGN Jun 19, 2009 - Section 3

Seattle Gay News

Issue 25, Volume 37, June 19, 2009

SGN summer travel guide

Mexican Riviera cruise

Shaun Knittel

by Shaun Knittel SGN Staff Writer

My expectations were exceeded time and again, from food choices to deck parties until 4 a.m. RSVP and the crew An all-Gay cruise is the perfect way of the Norwegian Star delivered as to test out your sea legs, make new promised – a freestyle cruise exclusive friends, and get away from it all in the to the Gay and Lesbian traveler. lap of luxury. There’s nothing quite Getting There like it. An all-Gay cruise is out-and-out The RSVP Mexican Riviera Cruise fun. The best part? You’re surrounded by hundreds of Gay and Lesbian pas- began at the Port of Los Angeles. Arsengers; you are free to relax and be ranging travel from Seattle is a cinch. yourself. The all-Gay cruise experi- A roughly three-hour nonstop flight ence is perfect for the lone traveler, a from SEATAC to LAX is the most Gay gaggle, or a pair of lovers spend- time-effective way to begin your jouring quality time together. Onboard ney. All the major carriers, as well as the ship, you’ll enjoy all the amenities some of the budget airlines, offer seryou’d expect from a traditional cruise, vices to and from LAX. If the airline but with a Gay twist; there are cus- of your choice does not fly to LAX at a tomized activities, entertainment, and discount price, landing at the smaller events designed to ensure a distinc- Long Beach airport is not an issue, because the miles from airport to seaport tively Gay experience.

I spent seven days aboard the Nor- are virtually the same. If you are flying wegian Star in April for the RSVP the same day as embarkation, you’ll Mexican Riviera Cruise. I was trav- want to book an early flight. Rememeling solo, but soon found myself sur- ber, you are in Southern California; rounded by passengers from all over Los Angeles area traffic can be unprethe globe. There was no “typical” pas- dictable at best. Not arriving on time senger; virtually every body type, per- due to bad traffic is not an uncommon sonality, and interest is represented. occurrence in L.A.

For lovers who want to take it slow or friends itching for a road trip, you can drive the beautiful Pacific Coast highway, which offers breathtaking views of some of the most beautiful coastline in the world.

I’m a big fan of traveling by train.

While I’ve had great experiences with AMTRAK, I advise against it in this case. The cost and time vs. air travel does not favor rail transportation. For nearly the same amount – or much cheaper, depending on how well you search the web for that perfect deal – you can be sipping a cocktail in southern California in no time. Remember, you are on vacation; convenience and cost should be at the top of your list.

Transportation to the ship from either airport was not provided for this particular cruise; however, a taxi ride from the airport or a West Hollywood hotel should run around $50. If you’re driving your own car, then you’ll find plenty of parking on the pier. Cruise ships are at Piers 19 - 21, and the name of the vessel is clearly marked. Your luggage can be delivered to your room for you, or you can carry everything

aboard yourself. Embarkation usually begins around noon with the last “all aboard” call at 3 p.m., or one hour before the ship sets sail. It is important to bring two forms of identification, a valid U.S. passport being one of the two.

The Ship RSVP Vacations chartered the beautiful Norwegian Cruise Line, Norwegian Star. The 965-foot, 91,740-ton ship is a floating city. With amenities ranging from a spa and fitness center to a beautiful theater and over 10 specialty restaurants, you get comfort and attention whenever you desire. I was impressed with the surprises aboard the ship, like the library, art gallery, and bridge room. I even watched a movie in the ship’s small, quaint movie theater. The pool on the weather deck, featuring four hot tubs and two waterslides, was always full of eye candy, day or night.

Convenience is the name of the game when you are traveling with RSVP and Norwegian Cruise Lines. Aboard ship,

see cruise page 26

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June 19, 2009

Celebrating 36 Years!

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June 19, 2009

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Oahu: Much more than coconut bras and plastic leis Scott Rice

Oahu

by Scott Rice SGN Contributing Writer Hawaii is one of those places you know you’ll visit at one point. It’s one of the world’s best-known vacation destinations, after all. Unfortunately, Oahu also tends to conjure images of kitschy luaus (we did the Starlight Luau at the Hilton Village) coconut bras (brought one home to my neighbor Penelope), and plastic leis that smell like petroleum (didn’t see a single one). I won’t tell you these things aren’t there, but I will tell you there’s much, much more to experience.

If you go, expect to find a variety of world-class shopping (tourists from Japan, Hong Kong, and Australia have known this for 20 years), restaurants, and hotels in the midst of paradise. If you visited Oahu before 1985, you should go again because I hear things have changed. From multimillion-dollar hotel renovations to the unfinished Trump Tower Waikiki, everything is new under the sun – everything, that is, except the perfect stuff.

To Do Waikiki is one of the most famous beaches in the world for numerous reasons. However, the best advice I can give is to take care to schedule some time away from it.

Don’t get me wrong; the beach is beautiful.

But if you stay along the 30 odd blocks that make up the relatively short stretch of protected turquoise surf and world-class shopping, dining, and lodging, you haven’t been to Oahu.

The Iolani Palace The only official royal residence in the United States, the Iolani Palace is rife with history and beauty. We got the VIP tour with Zita Cup Choy, the sweetest woman in all Hawaii and an encyclopedic fount of all things pertaining to the palace and the royal

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family. Zita Cup Choy began the tour on the lanai by having us close our eyes while she described what it might look like as guests arrived for a royal banquet. She continued to employ the illusion throughout the tour and it added immensely to the experience.

King Kalakaua built the Iolani Palace, completing it in 1882. It measures 34,104.5 square feet with four floors and 105 rooms.

The American Florentine style building is accented with gorgeous wood floors, staircases, wainscoting, and trim.

After Queen Liliuokalani, the last Hawaiian monarch, was overthrown in 1893, the palace became a government office building. The Junior League and the Friends of Iolani Palace (FIP), the organization that currently administers the palace under a lease from the state, began restoration work in 1969. Today, although the palace has recovered its original glory, FIP is still looking for thousands of artifacts that were auctioned off following Queen Liliuokalani’s overthrow. Zita Cup Choy shared a couple of fascinating stories of how some of the treasures have already found their way home.

Tours are available from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Tuesday through Saturday. Tours range from $5-$20, and kids under 5 are free. The palace is closed Sunday and Monday.

Snorkeling Hanauma Bay There is only one place for the snorkeling novice: The Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, located a short drive southeast of Waikiki along the Kalaniana’ole Highway. The circular bay, remnants of a volcanic crater, is home to thousands upon thousands of fish, coral, and other marine life. Snorkeling there is an otherworldly experience. I didn’t realize some of those colors came in nature.

As perfect as the place is, there are a few tips that can make the difference in whether your day is awesome, or a bust.

Go early. Hanauma Bay opens at 6:00 a.m. Get there as early as possible. By 10:00 a.m. it’s starting to get crowded; by noon it’s downright unpleasant with people. Parking is $1, admission is $5, and renting snorkeling equipment and lockers is about another $10. Be sure to bring some cash, snacks, and bottled water.

For first-timers: You will watch a short film about the bay, the wildlife, and snorkeling safety. Still, before you go out, talk to one of the lifeguards for tips on getting in and out of the water and using the snorkeling gear. The bay is protected, but it’s still the Pacific Ocean and things can get danger-

June 19, 2009

ous. Use the path marked by buoys to get into open water, otherwise you’ll end up dashed against the sharp coral, leaving you cut and bruised (this, by the way, is firsthand knowledge). And getting to the open water is the best way to escape the crowds and see the greatest variety of marine life.

Motorcycling Around Oahu Motorcycles are addictive. Once you get really comfortable on two wheels, there’s nothing that can compare. And riding around Oahu was some of the best fun of the entire trip.

We rented a couple of Honda Shadow 750s from Big Kahuna Motorcycle Tours & Rentals (www.bigkahunarentals.com), a short walk from our hotel on Waikiki. The staff was laid-back, but friendly and knowledgeable. And we paid exactly what they quoted us ($104.80 per bike for 12 hours) when we made our reservations a couple of months before the trip.

We headed northeast out of Honolulu on the Pali Highway which climbs over the Ko’olau Mountain Range to the windward side of the island. Just over the summit is the must-see Pali Lookout. The breathtaking views don’t take long to see, but they’ll stay with you forever.

Take a left on Highway 83 at the bottom of the mountains and wind your way along the windward coast. The beaches here are less famous than the surfing heaven of the North Shore, but they’re also less crowded and more user friendly. Find a spot, chug some H2O, and re-apply the sunscreen before taking a dip.

Continue north on 83 through a mix of small communities, farms, and resorts. Just past the turnoff to Turtle Bay, you’ll begin heading south and entering Oahu’s worldfamous North Shore. Summer is not the time of monster waves, but that doesn’t deter folks from descending in hordes. It was stop ‘n’ go traffic from Kawela all the way to Hale’iwa; no fun on the motos. We took a couple of breaks to shop and had some killer fish tacos at a little joint called Killer Tacos (they weren’t lying) with a sign that said, “Let us roll you a fatty.” How could we resist?

To get out of traffic we headed southwest out of Wai’alua past Dillingham Airfield.

The locals will warn that it’s in the middle of nowhere and to pack supplies, but it’s only about four miles from Wai’alua to where the road ends. Somewhere there is the beach where they filmed early episodes of the television show Lost.

The beaches were filled with local folks and military families (wonder if this had something to do with the words of discouragement we got in Waimea?). The best part is that as we were wading around out there, we almost stepped on a herd of green sea turtles playing in the surf. They were huge, lovely, and surprisingly nimble and it was the best thing on a day filled with some pretty good stuff.

Honolulu Fish Auction The Hawaii fishing industry landed 28 million pounds of ocean fish in 2006, worth an estimated $70.5 million. The Hawaiians take their seafood seriously; you should, too.

If you don’t know your opah from your ono and you keep getting your ahi confused with your mahimahi, the Honolulu Fish Auction on Pier 38 in Honolulu Harbor is the place to visit.

We arrived a little after 6:00 a.m. to find the guys unloading the Paradise 2001, a green and white fishing boat filled with big eye tuna, yellowfin tuna, swordfish, striped marlin, mahimahi, opah, monchong, hapu’up’u, and a few sharks.

Brooks Takenaka, local fish guru and head of the employee-owned United Fishing Agency, LTD, showed us around the refrigerated warehouse where the auction is held every day but Sunday. Brooks took time out of his busy day to give us a quick tour and answer all of our questions so that as the morning progressed, we knew exactly what was going on. When you visit, seek him out.

He’s a class act and he knows his fish.

We hung out with the few fellow tourists present watching the fish brought in and the buyers milling around inspecting the catch and deciding what they intended to bid on.

Each tuna is sliced near the tail to expose the red flesh, and a core sample is taken from the side so buyers can see what they’re bidding on.

The bidding begins and things happen quickly. The gaggle of agency staff, fishers, and buyers surround the auctioneer and move slowly down the row as each fish is auctioned individually. It’s like an unhurried ballet performed in rubber boots.

To Eat Hawaii is home to such culinary delights as bento, ahi poke, plate lunches, and a ubiquitous fascination with Spam. They also have mastered the art of fusion cuisine. As a cultural and geographic crossroads with nearly every growing climate found on earth available, the twin blessings of knowledge and availability of ingredients makes for a surprising culinary adventure on Oahu. It doesn’t matter if you’re spending $10 or considerably more, it’s easy to find something unique.

Want local bang for the buck? Try the plate lunches and fish sandwiches at the Rainbow Drive-In, 3308 Kanaina Avenue. The food is fast and cheap but oh so tasty. My old axiom proves true again: find out where the locals go and you’ll find good cheap eats.

The BBQ beef plate lunch is piled with a heaping mountain of thinly sliced skirt steak grilled to (really) well done dropped on top of two scoops of rice and a scoop of macaroni salad. The steak has a charred soy and ginger flavor that rocked my world. The macaroni salad is pretty much what suburban moms made 30 years ago on the mainland, full of mayonnaise and celery and, in a perfectly Hawaiian twist, strips of Spam.

The fish sandwich consists of a thin slice of mahimahi heavily breaded and deep fried to crunchy perfection. The soft white bun is smeared with a mysterious, yet scrumptious, yellow sauce that I just can’t place. I’m pretty sure mayonnaise was involved at some point, but I’m stumped beyond that.

For the less adventurous, a familiar retinue of burgers and sandwiches is also available.

Rumfire is the hot new lounge in the Sheraton Waikiki, featuring terrific tapas, lovely views of the beach with Diamond Head as a backdrop, a tower of exclusive rums, and constant ocean breezes lest you forget where you are (which you won’t).

Rumfire has that unique quality in a bar that makes you and everyone else feel a little more beautiful.

I’ve never eaten so much raw fish in my life, but when it’s this good, you dive right

Celebrating 36 Years!

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My favorites of the specially ordered petit entrees were the Azure sashimi – made with ahi tuna, served with an avocado and watermelon radish salad, dribbled with ginger vinaigrette and papadum crisp on the side – and the fresh opah, coincidently purchased that morning from the Honolulu Fish Auction as we looked on, high heat (800 de-

grees) roasted with herbs, white wine, and Meyer lemon.

The ahi sashimi was rich red with a firm texture and a delicate flavor. The salad was a strange and exotic blend of textures, tastes, and spice that shouldn’t have worked, but somehow did. Watermelon and avocado – who knew?

The opah, a huge round fish with orangetipped fins, was crisp on the outside and delicately juicy on the inside. They said it was roasted with lemon, white wine, and herbs; but this was all about the fish and the hightech, high-temp oven. The opa was complemented by a side of oven roasted Waialua asparagus with smoked citrus aioli.

Scott Rice

in. Our host, Scott Kawasaki, director of Public Relations for Starwood Hotels and Resorts Waikiki, got us an awesome table with a killer view (I doubt there are tables in the place without one). He then ordered up a sampling of the rich tapas that are helping make Rumfire famous.

The Ahi Poke Rumfire Style is a traditional Hawaiian raw ahi salad with an upscale twist. The fish is served in a crispy corn taco stuffed with Maui onion, tobiko sour cream, and gingered avocado. The spiciness plays off the delicate texture of the fish, and it’s all tied together with the smooth sour cream.

The other hit of the tapas sampler was the seared Kalua pulled pork quesadilla stuffed with carmelized Maui onions, jalapenos, and Lomi tomato served with cardamom pineapple chutney. This is a classic example of how pleasant sweet and spicy can be together in the hands of a master.

As we sat munching tapas and sipping margaritas, I began asking Mr. Kawasaki about the multimillion-dollar renovations at Starwood’s other little hotel, the Royal Hawaiian, that were just finished in March.

Since the Royal Hawaiian is right next door to the Rumfire, he offered us a tour of the luxurious icon, which was built in 1927 and popularly known as the “Pink Palace of the Pacific.”

As we looked over the famous Mai Tai Bar and gardens in the Royal Hawaiian’s courtyard, Mr. Kawasaki ducked into Azure, the Royal Hawaiian’s new upscale restaurant, and managed to get us a table.

He ordered up another sampler, this one a collection of Azure’s formidable entrees.

I’m a pretty simple guy when it comes to food and wine. I’m usually content with a light Italian red and pasta tossed in olive oil, parmesan cheese, and a few strategic veggies. However, I don’t mind being spoiled once in a while, and that’s exactly what we got at Azure. This was one of the most amazing dining experiences of my life.

The Honolulu fish auction

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News

5

Palm Springs: Rediscover your inner wild man

by Beau Burriola SGN Contributing Writer In my travels to the 21 countries I have set foot in, the places I remember most are those which have provided some remarkable moment, some miraculous epiphany that helps define the world and my place in

components and colorful characters: longsettled Cahuilla Indians building a settlement around an ancient spring rumored to have healing powers, a sudden influx of culture and fun imported by Hollywood greats who needed a place to be just far enough away from the bustle of their work, explosive growth of a Gay community that grew

introduction to the consistently beautiful weather.

With over 350 days of sunshine per year (that’s right, 350) you can forget what you think you know about weather – I packed three sweaters and didn’t touch them.

The summer months are warmer (well over 100 degrees), and during this time

on at this resort and you can’t help but get caught up in it. At any time of the day, there is a whole crowd of friendly guys to mingle with, and you are sure to develop both instant crushes and lasting friendships.

beau burriola

Tortuga del Sol If awards could be given out for comfort, the biggest trophy would have to go to Tortuga del Sol (www.tortugadelsol.com).

Proprietors Ric and Rob have worked hard to create a very comfortable and social atmosphere where everyone feels right at home. Of all the resorts, Tortuga manages to provide the best porch area with loads of mingling space, all in a resort that fits in every way into the scenery all around.

The Triangle Inn Situated two doors down from Tortuga del Sol, the Triangle Inn is capable of hosting a single room or a party of 10. With a cozy pool and mingling area situated under the ubiquitous water-misters and large rooms that boast some of the most complete kitchens, you’re sure to enjoy a longer stay and still feel right at home. Proprietors Michael and Stephen will make sure that you are comfortable the moment you slip into your bathing suit. (www.triangle-inn.com)

InnDulge owners Jean-Guy (l) and John (r) along with Beau

it. Usually, these life-altering realizations hit me while I’m on some ancient castle wall or on some untouched part of a million-yearold landscape surrounded by unfamiliar and beautiful foreign cultures. Not this one. Not this time.

This epiphany hit me while I was standing stark naked in a sea of naked men, by the pool of the Gay resort “InnDulge,” drinking a cocktail around four of my new closest friends. It was as through all those years I spent becoming a “different” sort of Gay guy, cynical about the Gay party boys dancing in their hot pants and being so naked, giving us all a bad name, I forgot how much fun it was just to be and have fun. There’s something about Palm Springs that makes your inner wild man come out and force you to have a good time.

The history of Palm Springs, like any good story, is a whole series of improbable

to become a majority of the population, the eventual migration of countless retirees from all walks of life, all attracted by the perfect climate, beautiful adventurous scenery, and endless vacation resorts.

Today, Palm Springs (140 miles northeast of San Diego) is much better known as an amazing place to escape to for anyone seeking adventure in the sun. Aside from the obvious Gay draws, such as the White Party in April, this Queerest of desert jewels boasts rich cultural activities, stunning outdoor activities, excellent foodie fare, and a calendar chock full of festivals and celebrations throughout the year.

Climate When I got to Palm Springs, my first shock was the open-roof airport. Being from Seattle, I’m not accustomed to buildings not having roofs, especially airports. It’s a great courtesy of zoso

Zoso Cabaret

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The Hacienda If it’s complete luxury you are after, your top choice has to be Hacienda (www.thehacienda.com). The best illustration of this place has got to be the in-room fireplace, an open room-type number that bathes the black marble and modern amenities of the four-room apartment in a warm and comfortable glow. Add to it a pillow menu, a four-direction shower spigot, and more plush towels than you’ll ever use, and you’re sure to feel like a king.

Century Palm Springs Resort If style is the top of your list, particularly true mid-century modern style (complete with alien-looking orange wall clock or lime green footstool set against a background of cascading 90-degree angles), then Century Palm Springs is your destination. Right next to the Hacienda and InnDulge, this coolercousin has the feel of a perfect martini served on a shimmering silver tray. (www.

The Most Important centruypalmsprings.com) Decision: Where to Stay (For a complete and exhaustive list of The most important decision you will make about your stay in Palm Springs will Palm Spring’s Gay resorts, check out www. be about the place you stay. A good decision palmspringsGayinfo.com) can surround you with fun people who will First Things First: really make your trip. A bad decision can After dropping your bags, leave you by yourself, or worse, stuck in a get a swimsuit crowd you just don’t belong in. The only way to ensure you are going to be comfortRR Menswear able with your stay is to do your research.

(33 N. Palm Canyon) If you aren’t familiar with “Gay resorts,” Since I haven’t had to own a bathing suit let me give you the general run down. Most of them are single-story facilities (usually in a decade, I needed to pick up a stylish, dewith bedroom/kitchen/bathroom) situated cently priced swimsuit and maybe a summer around one or two pools, sometimes with shirt or two. To my luck, I found RR Mensgyms or saunas, each one with a style and wear a great little Gay-owned boutique shop feel all its own. They are within reasonable with swimsuits and summer wear. Unlike distance (about a mile) of the main bar drag many self-important boutique stores, owner and tend to fall along a spectrum comprised Rick Erwin’s shop is extremely reasonably of sexual and social energy. Beyond that, priced and includes a huge selection of sumthere are more than 30 Gay resorts in the mer wear from all over the world. Whether area, so you’ve got a good chance of finding you are looking for a swimsuit, any-length shorts, day-to-bar shirts, or footwear, Rick the perfect one for you. has got you covered. He also has an uncanny InnDulge: My Personal Oasis eye for what you’re looking for, so be sure My favorite Gay resort, and the place of to ask what might not quite be on the floor my first traveler’s epiphany, is InnDulge yet, and you could get just the perfect pair of Palm Springs (www.indulge.com). With shorts, like I did.

For all of your other shopping needs, you the perfect balance of comfortable rooms and a sizable pool/hot tub/social area, a spe- only have to park your car on Palm Canyon cial social hour to get you acquainted with Drive and walk the 15 or so blocks up and your fellow guests, and a wonderful mix down the main shopping drag for anything of guys of all types, InnDulge manages the you are looking for. Sunglasses, shoes, hair, perfect balance between flirty Gay fun and accessories, objects d’arte – anything you down-to-earth people. On top of that, part- need is along this strip. nered proprietors Jean-Guy and John, strive What to do: to develop a personal relationship with all Shows/Cabaret of their guests. (It was Jean-Guy who inIf high-energy shows are what you are sisted I enter an underwear competition at Hunter’s Video Bar, which I did, and won!) looking for, don’t miss this town’s two best From breakfast time until well after 3 a.m. shows. Hotel Zoso’s Cabaret is a sort of each night, there is always something going Queer Carol Burnett Show meets a talent (considered the off-season) you’ll find excellent rates on lodgings and events with the summertime promotion called “Summer Splash,” which offers spectacular deals with area hotels, restaurants, bars, retailers, and entertainment venues. This season starts June 1 and goes right up until August 31. (www.palmspringssummersplash.com)

Celebrating 36 Years!

Outdoors Palm Springs isn’t just the Gay resort and entertainment capital. It’s situated in some of the most beautiful rugged wilderness you’ve ever seen. The outdoor activities all around make it an attractive destination for adventurers.

If hiking is your thing, Joshua Tree National Park is a joy-jumping assortment of desert and oasis winding around the fault lands of Southern California. For a view of the area, don’t miss the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (www.pstramway.com), a rotating funicular up to the highest point in the desert, where you can either hike the winding trails or just sit and enjoy a drink while you look out over the windmill-dotted desert landscape. If it’s golf you’re after, you’ll notice as you land at the airport that you’re really spoiled for choice.

If you just want a cup of coffee on a big grassy lawn full of Gay people, go to Koffi (www.kofficoffee.com) and get your favorite (iced, please) drink, find a shady bit of grass, and let paradise do the rest. This place is especially social on weekends, so don’t be in a rush.

vember 7-8, you’ve got just enough time to sew up the rips in your hot pants (or get a new pair) before escaping the onset of winter and extending your summer a bit. Book lodgings early and get ready to re-live summer. (www.pspride.com) Food While there are many notable food choices that stand out in Palm Springs, there are a few in particular that Gay folks shouldn’t miss.

Azul Tapas Lounge Half restaurant, half place-to-be-seen Gay patio paradise, this tapas lounge is built for socializing. From booths arranged around the outdoor bar to the little swinging cabana tables situated along the sidewalk, there’s comfortable seating and decent drink specials. On a hot day, just like anywhere in the desert, the water-misters will keep you cool, but the scene around you will be so hot that it’ll be hard to leave and remember there is somewhere else you wanted to see, too. (www.azultapaslounge.com) Wangs in the Desert In addition to hosting Thursday night’s hottest sunset pre-funk for Gay folks, Wangs also has an excellent menu to choose from. The “Sake Flight” is a sampler set of three types of sake (Tozei, Pear, and Pearl) and is a great way to begin before poking your head into the menu and pulling up any number of flavorful Asian dishes.

Jake’s Ready to Eat If it’s lunch you’re after, walk a few blocks north on the main drag and you’ll find Jake’s Ready to Eat (look for the big fork sign), a tiny, cozy, Gay-owned lunch place with a great selection of everythinghere-is-good lunch and brunch. As with any place in Palm Springs, the place to be courtesy of azul

Tiger prawns at Azul

For architecture nuts, you’ll be right up to your ears in mid-century modern here. Since the first floods of celebrities began building their castles here, the biggest names in architecture and those who have commissioned them have dotted the desert with the most dizzyingly magnificent villas you’ll ever see. It’s not just the homes that will amaze you, but the stories behind them. Let Robert Imber take you around Palm Springs on a Segway to see the most famous of these, and teach you the importance of the connection between carport, breezeway, window, and door. (psmoderntours@aol.com) Festivals and Events Whether it’s the dancer’s White Party (www.jeffreysanker.com), the cyclist’s Tour de Palm Springs (www.tourdepalmsprings. com), the architecture-lover’s Modernism week (www.modernismweek.com), the Elvis birthday celebration (www.elvishoneymoon.com), or any of the other endless festivals and events you can plan your trip around, there is no way you’re going to arrive at Palm Springs with nothing going on.

Not ready for Pride to end? Palm Springs has you covered. With Pride not until No-

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competition, and is packed to the front door every week. These acts aren’t your standard hodgepodge entertainment fare; great work goes into each segment (just ask any of the showgirls how long it takes to get into costume), and comes out on stage with every act as engaging as the first. (www.hotelzoso. com) If you want even bigger entertainment, check out the Fabulous Follies, the infamous twice-daily showcase of talent which boasts showgirls of a certain respectable life experience. With the biggest budget costumes I’ve ever seen at a show, combined with comedy, a colorful set, and even some dancing dogs, this show is like an early, big band kind of Vegas act. (www.psfollies.com)

Joshua Tree National Park

day hosts an underwear competition which you can enter for prize and tips (hey, I won the grand prize and made $62 in tips), and Thursday through Sunday the bar area, the dance floor and the patio are hopping. From there, make your way to Toucan’s Tiki Lounge (2100 N. Palm Canyon Dr) for a bit more of the same sort of crowd, or head to The Barracks (67-625 E. Palm Canyon Dr.) if Levis and camo is more your thing.

stay a week longer and planned my next trip straight away. It’s the beauty of Palm Springs that draws you and it’s the magic of Palm Springs that keeps you coming back.

When Leaving The life-altering epiphany that Palm Springs gave me is about more than this beautiful paradise with its amazing food, resorts, outdoors, or nightlife. It’s about more, even, than the friendliest people I’ve met since I’ve been to Greece. It’s about returning to that first feeling you got when you came across your first Gay bar or your first Gay city, that feeling of really belonging to something and knowing you were about to embark on a huge adventure. Palm Springs is a reminder of both where that journey started and where you want to return to again and again and again.

As for me, I changed all my plans to

is the cozy patio, in the shade, under a mister, where you wave at (or run from) all the friends you made last night.

Bongo Johnny’s On the Saturday night we ate here, every single table was filled up with Gay people.

I’ve heard of Gay-owned restaurants, but this place was entirely wall-to-wall filled with muscle boy couples, alternative couples, bear couples, rowdy tables of travel writers (oh, wait, that was us), and all here for the reasonably priced food and drink.

The Pacific Rim Salad is the best pre-nightout choice, but if you’ll be staying in, go ahead and splurge on the lobster ravioli.

Nightlife Any good desert paradise will have great watering holes, but imagine what kind of people you encounter out and about when everyone is warm, tanned, and happy. That’s what nightlife is like in Palm Springs, and you can’t help but make friends. While the list of places to go is far longer than we can put here, here is a list of the top three.

Start at Hunter’s Video Bar (302 E. Arenas) for your first bit of socializing. Wednes-

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News

7

Taos, New Mexico

by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer

Remote and resplendent Taos, a diminutive town of about 6,500 nestled beneath New Mexico’s highest peaks, has long been a haven for artists, bohemians and free spirits. The percentage of Gays and Lesbians in the population is likely far less than Santa Fe or Albuquerque, but Taos nevertheless pulls in a considerable number of GLBT visitors. It’s a perfect long weekend destination, just 90 minutes from Santa Fe and a little over four hours from Denver. The town abounds with exceptional art galler-

and barbecue eggplant, and crispy Onaga snapper with a Russian caviar beurre blanc sauce.

Another great pick right in the heart of Taos is the historic – and allegedly haunted – Taos Inn. Some of the retro-cool rooms in this atmospheric hotel open onto a small courtyard, while others are inside the 1930s-era main building. Even if you don’t stay here, enjoy margaritas in the classy Adobe Bar, or on the adjacent patio – it’s the top perch for people-watching in Taos. Hotel La Fonda is another excellent, upscale option – it’s right on Taos Plaza and is home to the phenomenal

Ansel Adams, D.H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe and Aldous Huxley. You can tour dozens of art galleries in the center of town, which also contains quite a few funky specialty shops, selling everything from Day of the Dead figurines to New Age crystals.

Downtown also has four superb art museums of the caliber you’d expect of a much larger city. Start with a tour of the Taos Art Museum, a striking adobe house that was once the home of famed Russian portraitist Nicholai Fechin. Here you get to explore Fechin’s life and see his portraits, and you also get a good sense of Taos’ early master painters and the history of this fabled art laszlo-photo / flickr

The Rio Grande Gorge, taken from the Rio Grande Bridge

ies, notable restaurants, Gay-friendly B&Bs and an almost endless supply of cultural and outdoors diversion.

In choosing a place to stay, go with either of two strategies: If you’re here more for relaxation and romance and to soak up the 50mile views, opt for one of the Gay-friendly inns 10 miles north of town in the spectacularly scenic village of Arroyo Seco, which also has a couple of superb restaurants. If you’re more the type to explore art galleries and museums and sample as many restaurants as possible, pick one of the excellent properties right in the heart of Taos’ small downtown.

WIDE ARRAY OF GAY-FRIENDLY HOTELS Among downtown properties, the swanky El Monte Sagrado ranks among the most stunning small resorts in New Mexico. This sumptuous compound – built with revolutionary environmental technology that makes it one of the “greenest” hotels anywhere – has individually decorated rooms, suites and casitas in all sizes, with international themes and priceless art and furniture; most have fireplaces and some have private decks with hot tubs. The hotel’s Living Spa offers a wide range of fabulous treatments, and El Monte’s elegant De la Tierra restaurant serves superb, globally influenced cuisine, such Moroccan lamb with harissa

Joseph’s Table restaurant, where you might sample such creative fare as soy-cured duck breast with ginger sauce and a sweet-potato tamale. Rooms in this rambling adobe inn come in a good range of configurations and prices and have attractive Southwestern furnishings – some have kiva-style gas fireplaces and separate sitting rooms.

An enchanting, reasonably priced option that’s just a short drive south of downtown, the Gay-friendly American Artists Gallery House consists of 10 charmingly furnished rooms and suites, all with wood-burning fireplaces and knockout views of the Sangre de Cristos. Each unit has a private entrance, but guests can also mingle over a hearty full breakfast each morning in the sunny dining room.

Up in Arroyo Seco, the luxurious, lightfilled Adobe and Stars B&B offers stunning 360-degree vistas of the surrounding countryside. This contemporary house is surrounded by decks and patios and filled with big windows, high ceilings and elegant furniture; some guest rooms have Jacuzzis and fireplaces. Nearby, Salsa del Salto is an inviting inn with spacious rooms, some in the main building and others in a more private wing. The best rooms have jetted whirlpool tubs and fireplaces, but all are handsomely furnished.

With an especially peaceful and hiddenaway location on a mesa a few miles west of Arroyo Seco, the moderately priced Little Tree B&B affords panoramic views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains and Rio Grande Valley. The four simple but refined guest rooms in this authentic adobe house open onto a flowery garden usually buzzing with hummingbirds.

THE VIBRANT ART OF TAOS Taos is a vibrant mix of the region’s Indian, Spanish and frontier legacies, further influenced by the legions of artists, writers and creative spirits who have settled – or at the very least passed through – among them

8

Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

colony.

Two other excellent art museums – the Blumenschein Home and Museum and the Harwood Museum – are just a few blocks away. Ernest Blumenschein was one of the founders of the Taos art colony, and his stunningly restored 1797 hacienda contains original furnishings, vintage photos and paintings by him and his many prominent colleagues. A few doors down, the prodigious and prestigious Harwood Museum contains a mix of items, from Spanish Colonial religious iconography to stark and provocative modern works by such 20thcentury notables as Marsden Hartley (who was openly Gay), John Marin and Agnes Martin.

It’s the Millicent Rogers Museum, however, that’s often the top highlight of artsminded visitors. This rambling adobe house overflows with thousands of decorative arts and crafts, mostly of local Hispanic and Native American origin. You can find everything here from Navajo blankets to turquoise jewelry to fine pottery. It’s an excellent place to gain an overview of New Mexico’s rich arts legacy, which dates back many centuries. If you have time, leave the museum by continuing north on U.S. 64, turning left (still on U.S. 64) at the traffic signal, and following the road about 7 miles west to the vertigo-inducing Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, which rises some 650-feet above the wild river below – it’s a terrific photo op.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE If museum-hopping isn’t your thing, consider the town’s wealth of outdoors activities. A favorite draw is white water rafting through Taos Box, a dramatic 17-mile span of the Rio Grande River that cuts through a deep gorge of steep, black-basalt cliffs.

Mountain-biking and fly-fishing are similarly popular diversions, and Taos Country Club (which is open to the public) offers 18 holes of golf out along a magnificent high

mesa south of downtown. Surrounding Taos is Carson National Forest, much of which sprawls across the 13,000-foot Sangre de Cristo mountains; this is prime hiking territory. Finally, in winter, Taos Ski Valley – about 20 miles northeast of downtown – is a huge attraction. It’s consistently ranked by top ski magazines as one of the most difficult and exciting facilities in the country.

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS Taos may be small and informal, but it enjoys an excellent reputation for outstanding – and highly sophisticated – restaurants.

Two of the musts for foodies are Joseph’s Table and De la Tierra, mentioned above.

Another top pick, up in Arroyo Seco, is Sabroso Restaurant and Bar, which occupies a romantic hacienda-style building and serves delicious Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.

It’s known for its stellar wine list (lots of hard-to-find Spanish and Italian varietals), and there’s live music in the bar many evenings. Taos has no Gay bars per se, but the bar at Sabroso (as well as the one at the Taos Inn) both have something of a GLBT following.

On Taos’ south side, the Trading Post Cafe has made a name for itself serving hearty contemporary American and Italian fare; the walls here are hung with local art.

A favorite with locals, Byzantium occupies a discreet courtyard a short walk south of the Plaza and serves up unusual, globally inspired creations, such as lobster potpie with artichoke hearts and sweet corn, simmered in a brandy bisque. The Apple Tree, in a 19th-century Territorial-style house near the Plaza, offers an eclectic mix of Southwestern and American dishes, from smoked trout to veggie green curry. It’s especially popular for Sunday brunch.

For lighter, healthful fare, head to the Dragonfly Cafe & Bakery, a Europeaninspired eatery with a lovely courtyard and a convenient location near shopping and galleries. A popular venue for breakfast or lunch, the Dragonfly serves such memorable fare as fennel pancakes with orange syrup, and udon noodle bowls with fresh shrimp. If you’re passing through Arroyo Seco, be sure to visit Taos Cow, a lively cafe serving tasty deli sandwiches and iconic house-made ice cream (pinon-caramel is a favorite flavor). It’s the perfect spot to soak up local flavors, people-watch, and enjoy the magnificent views of the high desert and soaring peaks that surround Taos.

THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK Adobe and Stars B&B (575-776-2776 or 800-211-7076, www.taosadobe.com).

American Artists Gallery House (800-5322041, www.taosbedandbreakfast.com). The Apple Tree (575-758-1900). Byzantium (575-751-0805). Dragonfly Cafe & Bakery (575-737-5859, www.dragonflytaos. com). El Monte Sagrado and De la Tierra (800-826-TAOS, www.elmontesagrado. com). Hotel La Fonda and Joseph’s Table (575-758-2211 for hotel, 575-751-4512 for restaurant, www.lafondataos.com and www.josephstable.com). Little Tree B&B (575-776-8467 or 800-334-8467, www. littletreebandb.com). Momentitos de la Vida (575-776-3333). Sabroso Restaurant and Bar (575-776-3333, www.sabrosotaos. com). Salsa del Salto (575-776-2422, www. bandbtaos.com). Taos Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau (575-758-3873 or 800-732-8267, www.taoschamber.com).

Taos Cow (575-776-5640, www.taoscow. com). Taos Inn (575-758-2233 or 800-8267466, www.taosinn.com). Trading Post Cafe (575-758-5089, www.tradingpostcafe. com).

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate. com.

Celebrating 36 Years!

Visit us online www.sgn.org

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News

9

Seeing is believing in Maui's “Upcountry” emuse tess heder / flickr

Sunset over Haleakala highway in Maui's Upcountry

When one first thinks about vacationing in Maui, it’s natural to envision the sand and surf, cocktails at the resort pool, luaus and oceanside dinners. To my surprise, I discovered a part of the island that doesn’t get the mention it deserves. High above the mountains, right in the center of this tropical paradise, is a host of activities that can easily take up a day or more to fully enjoy, creating a unique island experience. The area, known as the Upcountry, consists of forests, farms, vineyards, and winding country roads. It appears to be minutes away from

beach destinations on a map, but in reality it can take an hour just to get there by car on a single lane highway. For future trips to Maui, go to www.visitmaui.com for ideas and information to begin your adventure to this lush island, which is five hours from Seattle by air.

emuse tess heder / flickr

by Richard Kennedy SGN A&E Writer

of the most mouthwatering menus. General Store (www.bevgannonrestaurants.com) is entering its 20th year and is consistently rated as one of Maui’s best restaurants. Nestled among pineapple fields, this place is a destination all its own for tourists and a favorite dining experience for many locals. Gannon has made some of her creations – like the crab pizza, sashimi Napoleon and pineapple upside-down cake – reason enough to make the journey to Upcountry Maui. After devouring our lunch, a short drive brought us to the Kula Marketplace (www.kulamarketplace.com) for a stroll around the Kula Lodge, where stores offered specialty gourmet food and fine local art before our next venture.

With the top down, we again went high into the mountains, this time on the other side as we wound through vacation homes and local residences. The air was filled with the scent of lavender and we hardly needed a map to know we were close to the Ali’I Kula Lavender Farm (www.aliikulalavender.com). The gardens, nestled on the slopes of the Haleakala Crater, offer even more breathtaking views from its 10.5-acre estate.

Enjoy tea and scones at any one of the Zeninspired sitting areas or gazebos – I never knew I could forget about the hectic life back home without even going to the beach!

The Gallery Gift Shop has everything from lavender chocolates to organic skin creams

EXPLORING THE UPCOUNTRY You might think you’ve died and gone to heaven when you visit the seaside cliffs on the north side of Maui, but nothing can prepare you for the breathtaking views experienced during a horseback ride at the Piiholo Ranch (www.piiholo.com). This farmland, owned by six generations of a local fam-

Kula Lodge

ily, sprawls through open range and towering eucalyptus forests, all the way up to a 2,000-foot elevation viewpoint. Our guided horseback ride took us to viewpoints where I felt as though I were at the center of the world, because I could see the entire island below me and the pristine Pacific Ocean in every direction I looked. It’s certainly not the island’s most inexpensive horseback adventure, but I guarantee it's well worth your money as nowhere else can you experience this on a working cattle ranch. For the more adventurous traveler, there is the incredible Piiholo Zipline adventure which begins with a stroll across a 317-foot long suspended bridge which leads to the ziplines where you soar more than three miles through the immense eucalyptus forests, native koa and ohia trees, and many indigenous plants, while catching grand coastal and canyon views all along the ride.

Needless to say, my partner and I were starving after we parted ways with our fabulous guide at the ranch, and we headed down to the famous Hali’imaile General Store, owned by celebrated Maui chef Bev Gannon. Not knowing what to expect, we found the most charming casual restaurant with a faux storefront, charming waitstaff and one 10 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

– I admit, I’m hooked on the lavender shaving lotion now – and you can join any of the daily walking tours offered.

Just beyond, where the road almost comes to an end as the altitude slopes back down, you’ll come across the historical Tedeschi Vineyards (www.mauiwines.com), located on a 20,000-acre Ulapalaku Ranch. Tiny rural communities, rolling green pastureland, majestic mountain vistas, sublime seascapes, you will see it all on the road to Tedeschi Vineyards. One of Hawaii’s most historic buildings, The King’s Cottage, built in 1874 for the last reigning monarchs, was visited by the last king and queen for its beauty, peacefulness and tranquility. You are sure to experience this yourself with one of the daily complimentary tours. And, as expected, the tour ends at The Kalakaua Cottage Tasting Room for an offering of tantalizing local wines.

It’s difficult to see your Upcountry journey come to an end, until you remember that a romantic evening walk along the beach awaits you back at the waterfront. It was the perfect end to an unexpectedly exciting day as we reminisced at what seemed like a world away from our resort and moonlight stroll.

Celebrating 36 Years!

Pride Parade Volunteers Needed Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers to monitor the food collection bins throughout the parade route. You will still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends.

Please contact Joe at jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.

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Visit us online www.sgn.org

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 11

Explore Gay Amsterdam amsfrank / flickr

The fashionable Prik bar in the heart of Spuistraat's Gay red-light district

by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer Few European cities have more to offer Lesbian and Gay travelers than the remarkably forward-thinking and tolerant city of Amsterdam. Even better, a combination of consistently reasonable airfares, direct flights from myriad North American cit-

ies, and palatable prices for most goods and services makes this compact, scenic city of about 750,000 residents one of the great world capitals for GLBT visitors.

It’s extremely easy to explore Amsterdam on foot, as the majority of the city’s key attractions and most diverting neighborhoods lie in the city center, within relatively short walking distance of most hotels. You can

also travel by public tram, or grab a taxi – fares for the latter run about 9 to 12 Euros for most trips within the City Center.

A good strategy for taking in the city is to begin at the central Dam Square and work your way around the city center, passing through some of the other main squares, such as the Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein. Be sure to plan visits to the city’s most esteemed repositories of art, the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Although the enormous main section of the latter has been closed for some time for renovations, a significant chunk of the collection – including some of the most important works – are on exhibit in the museum’s Philips wing.

SOBERING HISTORY No visit to Amsterdam is complete without a tour of the poignant Anne Frank House, which is close to the Joordan district, a warren of narrow lanes lined with cozy cafes and engaging boutiques. Close by the Anne Frank House is the Homomonument, a memorial consisting of three pink granite triangles remembering the lives of Lesbians and Gays persecuted throughout history, and especially during World War II. It overlooks Keizersgracht Canal. A few feet away, the Pink Point kiosk is a small but well-stocked GLBT gift and bookshop, and also an excellent place to grab free brochures on nightlife and obtain advice on what to see and do.

On the east side of city center the Rembrandt House offers one of the more fascinating museum experiences in Amsterdam.

Nearby, a branch of Russia’s famed Hermitage museum has just opened inside a late17th-century building overlooking the Amstel River.

FOOD AND SHOPPING If you’re a fan of shopping, be sure to walk along Kalverstraat to find most of the leading department stores, and hit Leidsestraat and P.C. Hooftstraat to find dozens of slick boutiques and fashion shops showing the styles of some of Europe’s leading designers. Other areas that have considerable sway among shoppers include the narrow lanes of the Joordan, bustling Utrechtsestraat, and the blocks around Waterlooplein, near the Rembrandt House. For one-stop shopping, don’t miss the trendy De Bijenkorf department store, which carries a whole slew of top labels.

Amsterdam’s restaurant scene has improved markedly in recent years, with quite a few places serving healthier and lighter food than you’d have typically found in the

12 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Netherlands a decade ago. In the Gay-popular Reguliersdwaarstraat district, Het Tuynhuis is one of the most refined restaurants in the city – the elegant spot serves first-rate modern Mediterranean-French food, such as rack of lamb with sausages, lentils, and fresh spring vegetables.

The Gay-trendy Getto, which is along the lovably seedy and leather-oriented Warmoesstraat, is an inviting spot that’s known as much among see-and-be-seen types for sipping cocktails as for tasty food, from camp-themed burgers (try the Priscilla, with mozzarella, tomato, basil, and pesto-mayo) to more elaborate daily specials featuring seafood and wild game. Frenzi is a lively corner trattoria at the hip and charming corner of Staalstraat and Zwanenburgwal. The restaurant is close to Waterlooplein and the cluster of Gay bars along the opposite shore of the Amstel River. There’s an excellent list of Italian wines, and here you can dine on superb rustic fare, including pastas and grills. If you’re with a friend, order the ginormous antipasti platter.

Just around the corner from Homomonument, the restaurant Werck is another stellar option, set in a charming coach house and serving globally inspired haute cuisine, such as tuna sashimi with ginger-soy glaze, and smoked duck salad with mango-raspberry vinaigrette. You’ll also find several excellent Indonesian, Thai, and other International restaurants throughout the city center. Indonesian food is a major specialty in the Netherlands, and one of the best – and most stylish – places to sample it is Selecta, a smartly furnished eatery just around the corner from the Reguliersdwaarstraat Gaynightlife strip.

There are plenty of places throughout the city to grab a light lunch, among them Spanjer & van Twist, near the Homomonument, and Downtown, a quite Gay-popular spot along bustling Reguliersdwaarstraat. On Utrechtsestraat, fans of java should duck into the Koffee Salon, a comfy place with hardwood floors and plenty of seating (plus free wifi). You can relax here with friends while sipping some of the best coffee in the city, plus outstanding chocolates and snacks.

TRENDY BARS AND CLUBS Amsterdam’s trendiest Gay bars and clubs are set along Reguliersdwarsstraat. These include such hip hangouts bars as April, Soho, and ARC (which is also a restaurant serving very good contemporary Continental food), and the pulsing disco, Exit. In the heart of Spuistraat’s Gay red-light district, Prik is a fashionable and festive spot that draws a mixed-gender bunch – in good weather, you’ll see the crowd spill out onto the street, especially during the early evening hours.

Fans of leather bars should stroll along Warmoesstraat, just north of Dam Square, and check out the Argos and the super-cruisy late-night favorite, the Cockring. Among favorite locals hangouts, try Amstel Taveerne and Le Montmartre. Both of these places draw a friendly, all-ages, mixed-gender crowd and have a convivial, almost campy vibe. Another laid-back but somewhat more cruisy option is De Spijker, which is conveniently close to the city’s famous Gay bathhouse, Thermos.

Alas, the Lesbian nightlife scene in Amsterdam leaves something to be desired, although women are quite welcome – if in the minority – at virtually all of the bars mentioned above, except for the leather haunts along Warmoesstraat. Two mixed Gay/Lesbian bars of note are the long-running Saarein, in the Jordaan, and the art deco-style Vive-La-Vie, near the camp bars by the Amstel River.

STUNNING HOTELS Amsterdam’s lodging landscape has plenty of variety, including simple and cheap Gay-oriented guest houses, luxe grande dames, and a growing crop of trendy boutique hotels with avant-garde design themes.

Among Gay-owned places, the Hotel Freeland is an economical, well-situated prop-

Celebrating 36 Years!

The Homomonument, a memorial for Gays and Lesbians who have been persecuted throughout history

erty (close to the Joordan and the main Gaynightlife areas) with 15 clean and comfortable rooms. Hosts Pascale and Rick speak a few languages between them and are quite knowledgeable about the city, and the hotel welcomes a mix of Gays, Lesbians, and open-minded heteros. Amsterdam is a popular destination for leather aficionados, who should consider staying at the Black Tulip, a luxury inn catering to guys who seek rooms with both cushy amenities (VCRs and minibars) and kinky accoutrements (whipping benches, bondage slings).

One of the more cosmopolitan hostelries in the city, the Dylan Amsterdam occupies a stunning 17th-century building on the prestigious Keizergracht, one of the most picturesque of the city’s 165 canals. The 41 rooms and suites, however, feel distinctly modern, with bold color schemes and sleek furnishings. The hotel’s Dylan Restaurant serves topnotch East-meets-West cuisine. If you’re seeking a sumptuous old-world experience, check into the vaunted Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, a stately Belle Epoque property overlooking the central Dam Square.

A 10-minute tram ride outside the city center, the hip Lloyd Hotel opened in 2005 catering to an artsy crowd and offering quirky, stylish rooms for every budget, from simple shared-bath units for 90 euros to lavish loft suites with hot tubs for upwards of 450 euros. This former immigrant-processing center (circa 1920) is in the supercool Oostelijk Havengebied (Eastern Harbor) neighborhood, which is fast becoming famous for its striking contemporary architecture and swish design shops, such as Pol’s Potten.

For sheer luxury, it’s hard to beat the Hotel Okura, run by an upscale Japanese chain that’s known for outstanding service. The hotel, which occupies one of the tallest buildings in the city, recently completed a quite grand refurbishment of its rooms and bathrooms – the tubs and showers now have spectacular views through tall windows (ask for a room on a high floor facing the city center). The hotel, which is 15-minute

Visit us online www.sgn.org

walk from the Reguliersdwaarstraat bar area, is famed for its dining – it’s home to the only Michelin two-star restaurant in the country, Ciel Bleu, as well as the renowned traditional Japanese restaurant, Yamazato, which has a single Michelin star.

THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK Amstel Taveerne (20-623-4254, www. amsteltaveerne.nl). April (20-625-9572, www.cafeapril.eu). ARC (20-689-7070, www.bararc.com). Argos (20-622-6595, www.argosbar.com). Black Tulip (20427-0933, www.blacktulip.nl). Cockring (20-623-9604, www.clubcockring.com).

Downtown (www.coffeeshopdowntown. nl, 20-622-9958). Dylan Amsterdam (20530-2010, www.dylanamsterdam.com).

Exit (20-625-8788, www.clubexit.eu).

Frenzi (20-423-5112, www.frenzi.nl).

Getto (20-421-5151, www.getto.nl). Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky (20-554-9111, www. nh-hotels.com). Het Tuynhuis (20-6276603, www.tuynhuys.nl). Hotel Freeland (20-622-7511, www.hotelfreeland.com).

Hotel Okura (20-678-7111, www.okura.nl).

Koffee Salon (20-330-4314). Lloyd Hotel (20-561-3636, www.lloydhotel.com). Le Montmartre (20-620-7622, www.cafemontmartre.nl). Netherlands Board of Tourism & Conventions (www.holland.com/us).

Prik (20-427-9185, www.prikamsterdam. nl). Saarein (20-623-4901, www.saarein. nl). Selecta (20- 624-8894, www.restaurantselecta.nl). Soho (20-330-4400, www. pubsoho.eu). Spanjer & van Twist (20-6390109). De Spijker (20-620-5919, www. spijkerbar.nl). Vive-La-Vie (20-624-0114, www.vivelavie.net). Werck (20-627-4079, www.werck.nl).

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate. com.

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June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 13

Great Gay New York neighborhoods

by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer This year marks the 40th anniversary of the Stonewall Riots, which galvanized New York City’s GLBT community and helped ultimately to kick-start the modern Gay rights movement. To commemorate this occasion, the city has a particularly impressive

Gay Pride celebration planned for the end of the month (events take place from June 20 through June 28). It’s a terrific time to visit one of the world’s leading Gay destinations, although any time of year, there’s plenty to see in this exciting city.

With this in mind, here’s a look at some of the more noteworthy places to eat, play and stay in three of Manhattan’s most Gay-

popular neighborhoods, Chelsea, the East Village and Hell’s Kitchen. If you’ve never been to New York, these are three must-see parts of the city. And if you have been, you may be surprised by some of the cool new hangouts and hotels that have opened in these neighborhoods.

mark mikoy / flickr

New York's increasingly fashionable Hell's Kitchen neighborhood

Pride Parade Volunteers Needed Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers to monitor the food collection bins throughout the parade route. You will still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends.

Please contact Joe at jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.

14 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Chelsea The neighborhood’s Gay area is situated primarily along 8th and 7th avenues, between West 14th and 23rd streets, and on the blocks connecting these two thoroughfares.

Here you’ll find dozens of bars, restaurants and shops, plus a few accommodations of note.

For dining, neighborhood stalwarts include Mare, which presents creative, superfresh seafood with contemporary American and French preparations. The chatter-filled, high-ceilinged space looks like a bit like a Marseille fish market. Yet another slick corner eatery with French doors, Niso’s describes its cuisine as Mediterranean but definitely emphasizes – and excels – in Greek-style seafood. The grilled octopus appetizer and broiled snapper entrees score high marks.

Romantic East of Eighth has a cute patio, wonderful cabaret shows and delicious French food at reasonable prices. On 7th Avenue you’ll find great noshing at Cafeteria, a trendy diner-style spot that’s open 24/7; Restivo, a romantic spot serving first-rate Italian fare and Regional Thai Taste, a reliably good Thai restaurant.

Chelsea sets the pace for New York’s boybar scene. Longtime favorites include G Lounge, Splash Bar and Barracuda. If you’re a fan of Gay sports bars, definitely stop by Gym for a drink. Next door, the relatively new Ate Ave is a friendly lounge and restaurant that’s fast developing a loyal following among Chelsea boys (it’s also a good bet for brunch the morning after bar-hopping into the wee hours). Fans of leather should venture to the neighborhood’s western reaches and check out the venerable Eagle, which is also a fun spot to shoot pool.

This neighborhood with few hotels received a nice boost in 2009 with the opening of the GEM Chelsea, a mid-priced, sleek property that has a wonderful location on 8th Avenue, steps from bars and restaurants.

Rooms are cozy but well-equipped, and the staff couldn’t be friendlier. Just down the street, the charming Colonial House Inn has long been a reliable place to stay in Chelsea.

The East Village Although intensely gentrified over the past decade, the “EV” acts as the city’s hub of alternative dress, nightlife, and entertainment.

Cheap eateries, iconoclast-meets-slacker bars and lounges and garage-sale-inspired shops keep a steady stream of tourists and locals slinking about at all hours of the night. One of the best streets for strolling is St. Marks Place, which is jammed with divey bars, groovy shops and cheap restaurants. It’s not a particularly Gay part of the neighborhood, but it is fun for a browse.

Great shopping and people-watching can be had along the neighborhood’s avenues, which take on an increasingly hip ambience the farther east you go.

Ethnic eateries have always thrived in this part of town. Fans of Basque cooking adore Euzkadi, a homey, old-world space with hearty, rustic food. Just a block south of the EV, Sorella serves exceptionally tasty Piedmont-inspired Italian food (it’s especially fun for brunch). You’ll often see folks lining up outside the door at Artichoke Basille’s Pizza, a simple-looking storefront pizzeria that’s become famous for its delectable thin-crust pies. One place that shouldn’t be missed in this neighborhood is Veselka, a beloved Ukranian diner that doles out generous (and amazingly tasty) portions of homestyle fare, from cheese blintzes to feathery pierogi dumplings.

Gay bars in the East Village still draw heavily, as they always have, from the city’s dressed-in-black ranks. Just off Avenue A, the Phoenix is a crowded no-frills chat bar that swells nightly with students, arty types and even a few Chelsea boys. There are erotic shows, drag events and hormonecharged crowd at the sleazy-chic Cock.

Actor and East Village resident Alan Cumming is a regular at Eastern Bloc. One other Gay hangout that’s long been popular in the neighborhood is the Boiler Room, which

Celebrating 36 Years!

has a strong following with students from nearby NYU. Although the East Village is lacking in hotels, there are a couple of excellent lodging choices right on the edge of the neighborhood, including the quirky yet stylish Cooper Square Hotel. And in the ultra-chic Lower East Side, the Thompson LES is garnering raves for its stunning, high-ceilinged rooms and fabulous pool – plus an outstanding restaurant, Shang.

Boiler Room (www.boilerroomnyc.com, 212-254-7536). Cafeteria (212-414-1717, www.cafeteriagroup.com). Cock (no phone, www.thecockbar.com). Colonial House Inn (800-689-3779, www.colonialhouseinn.com). Cooper Square Hotel (212475-5700, www.thecoopersquarehotel. com). Delta Grill (212-956-0934, www. thedeltagrill.com). Eastern Bloc (no phone, www.easternblocnyc.com). East of Eighth (212-352-0075, www.eastofeighth.com). restivorestaurant.com

Restivo Ristorante, a romantic street cafe in Chelsea serving first-rate Italian fare

Hell’s Kitchen It’s almost unheard of to pass through New York City without taking in a Broadway show and strolling around Times Square.

In the past decade, plenty of attention has been given to the neighborhood to the west, Hell’s Kitchen, a once tough-as-nails Irish working-class enclave that’s become increasingly fashionable. Many Lesbians and Gays have moved here in recent years, and the Gay-trendy dining and entertainment scene has lately spread like kudzu vine.

It can be a challenge scoring a table at celeb-chef Mario Batali’s fabulous space, Esca, but do persevere – you’ll be rewarded with exceptional yet reasonably priced seafood like whole-roasted sea bass with lemon and olive oil. A sophisticated pan-Latin American eatery named for the neighborhood it anchors, Hell’s Kitchen is the place to sample such stellar victuals as duck-confit empanadas, or pan-seared halibut with sweet-plantain puree and salsa verde.

Dig into exceptionally tasty Moroccan fare at Tagine, a riotously colorful eatery with its own fleet of exotic belly dancers.

Inexpensive pan-Asian and American cooking – including Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese specialties – is served at Vynl, a funky retro diner with a friendly staff. And for you homesick southern girls, fill up on amazingly authentic Cajun and Creole fare at the Delta Grill, a brassy and seductive neighborhood canteen that pays homage to downhome faves like fried chicken with candied yams.

Sassy and sexy lounges are all the rage in Hell’s Kitchen. Notables include Posh, which could just as easily be called “Lush” for its fab drink specials; Barrage, a favorite happy hour hideout for Gay scenesters and media upstarts; and Therapy, a snazzy, two-level bar known for great music, potent drinks, and a cheeky unisex bathroom.

You’ll find dozens and dozens of worthy hotels near Hell’s Kitchen around Times Square and the Theater District. But if you want to be away from the touristy fray and right in the heart of the neighborhood, check out the Skyline Hotel, an affordable property on 10th Avenue, steps from several popular restaurants in the neighborhood. A more intimate experience can be enjoyed at Hotel 414, a dapper boutique hotel that’s set inside a pair of restored, historic townhouses. You can relax over in the leafy courtyard garden and easily forget you’re in one of the largest, Gayest cities in the world.

Eagle (646-473-1866, www.eaglenyc. com). Esca (212-564-7272, www.escanyc.com). Euzkadi (212-989-9788, www. euzkadirestaurant.com). GEM Chelsea (212-675-1911, www.ascendcollection. com/hotel-new_york-new_york-NY426).

G Lounge (212-929-1085, www.glounge. com). Gym (212-337-2439, www.gymsportsbar.com). Hell’s Kitchen (212-9771588, www.hellskitchen-nyc.com). Hotel 414 (212-399-0006, www.414hotel.com).

Mare (212-675-7522, www.chelseadining. com/mare/). Niso’s (646-336-8121, www. nisos-ny.com). NYC and Company (aka the New York Convention and Visitors Bureau) (212-484-1200, www.nycgo.com).

Phoenix (212-477-9979). Posh (212-9572222, www.poshbarnyc.com). Regional Thai Taste (212-807-9872). Restivo (212366-4133). Skyline Hotel (212-582-4604, www.skylinehotelnyc.com). Sorella (212274-9595, www.sorellanyc.com). Splash Bar (www.splashbar.com, 212-691-0073).

Tagine (212-564-7292, www.taginedining. com). Therapy (212-397-1700, www.therapy-nyc.com). Thompson LES (212-4608888, www.thompsonles.com). Veselka (212-228-9682, www.veselka.com). Vynl (212-974-2003, www.vynl-nyc.com).

The Little Black Book Artichoke Basille’s Pizza (212-228-2004, www.artichokepizza.com). Ate Ave (646763-8355, www.ateave.com). Barracuda (212-645-8613). Barrage (212-586-9390).

to monitor the food collection bins throughout the

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A Short Trip To A Real Northwest Adventure!

Wilderness Hiking Beach Combing Fishing Surfing

Cozy Cabins, Inns and RV Sites On the 112 Scenic Byway sekiu.com or clallambay.com

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.

Pride Parade Volunteers Needed Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers parade route. You will still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends. Please contact Joe at: jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 15

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WWW.OREGONCOAST.ORG 16 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Celebrating 36 Years!

Eric Andrews-katz

Escape to

La Conner

by Eric Andrews-Katz SGN A&E Writer Many people today are choosing simple day trips or overnight escapes to get their travel fix. For Seattleites, there are many choices and La Conner should not be overlooked. The waterfront town nestled by Deception Pass is a charming enough reason to visit, but there are two gems that should not be missed going up and coming back.

On the way to La Conner, plan a side trip to The Outback Kangaroo Farm in Arlington. An incredible way to spend a couple of hours, everyone will enjoy this place; there’s no way not to. Ray and Joey Strom started The Outback which currently houses several breeds (and sizes) of kangaroos, ringtail lemurs, peacocks, wallabies, llamas and an entire assortment of other animals

you wouldn’t think would be gathered in Arlington. “Wallabies make great Washington pets,” says Joey. She’s also quick to add, “If you have a large yard with a six-foot fence.”

These affectionate kangaroos get about three feet high and come from an area with a climate similar to Seattle’s, so neither rain nor snow seems to bother them. The Outback is located at 10030 SR 530 NE and is less than a 45-minute drive away. Call 360-403-7474 for tour information and for easy directions.

Bring a lunch and enjoy.

La Conner is a sleepy but apparently Gayfriendly town, as rainbow flags were present and couples were spotted along the streets.

For overnight reservations, check out the La Conner Lodge at 205 N. First Street: 360466-1500. Settled on the water, the Lodge is what relaxation is about. Room prices range from $130 - $330 depending on need or deEric Andrews-katz

Kissing a llama at the Outback Kangaroo Farm in Arlington, WA

Visit us online www.sgn.org

Deception Pass

sire. Most rooms have waterfront views and gas fireplaces for ambience. The king-size bed was luxurious, the view was spectacular, and there was a deep whirlpool tub in the bathroom. The friendly staff hosted a wine/cheese afternoon soiree, complete with a piano player. The continental breakfast of assorted fruits, breads, muffins, tea and coffee is top-notch. If you are traveling with your pet, try the sister property the La Conner Inn, located one block away.

If your food tastes lend themselves to a formal seafood palate, then Nell Thorn’s restaurant is for you. Conveniently located adjacent to La Conner Inn, the menu averages $20-$25 a plate. The coconut/white corn bisque was very tasty with the hint of Thai flavor. The seafood plates all looked beautifully prepared, but if you are not a fan of plate di mare, then you may want to reconsider, as the land based dishes left something to be desired.

For a more basic fare, go to Legends, home of local fry bread. Using a Native American recipe, this fry bread was simple, basic and delicious. If not familiar with fry bread, it’s similar to an elephant ear, but doughier and lighter. While good by itself, the choices of powdered sugar, honey or jam makes the snack soar. Try the fry bread taco for a different presentation of an old classic.

For the landlubber, the town offers a variety of galleries, restaurants and little shops that can easily fill a day of meandering. Know that the town may be small and quaint, but the shops keep more urbanite prices. Two museums are in town, The Quilt

Museum and a Museum of Northwest Arts, but check ahead as they are closed early in the week.

Going out on the water offers several great choices. If speed is your need, try calling Murray Hamilton (360-333-1925) for a tour of Deception Pass. Mr. Hamilton’s tour is personal and informative without being over loaded. His laidback style is welcoming and groups can be two to five people ($35/person). Tours are given by reservations only.

For a more hands-on experience, try Anacortes Kayak Tour (www.AnacortesKayakTours.com). This is a great experience even for the complete novice and a wonderful combination of exercise and visuals. Guided tours of 1.5 – 3 hours ($35 - $65) will set you off paddling through Bowman’s Bay or Deception Pass with sights of sea life and explorations of coastlines and sea caves.

Don’t be afraid of turning over; it’s more likely you’ll tip the guide and not the kayak.

On your way out of town en route back to Seattle (via Best Road), stop at Rexville Grocery. After hearing several boasts about the “best sandwiches in the valley,” stopping there was almost like accepting a dare.

The sandwiches were accurately described and I went back for a second one before getting too far away.

Whether it’s a day trip or an overnight adventure, La Conner is an easy way to enjoy getting out of town. You can see the sights, enjoy the food, kayak the bay and either be pampered in a most comfortable bed or be home in time for late-night TV.

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 17

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18 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Celebrating 36 Years!

Coupeville is Whidbey Island's shining star Ron Roesler

Langley marina

by Ron Anders SGN A&E Writer My love affair with Washington State continues. I assure you that this is not just a schoolboy crush. I’ve been living in Seattle for over 20 years, but every time I venture out of the big city, I fall into the thrall of Washington’s natural splendors. This time it was Island County – Coupeville on Whidbey Island, to be exact – a town which is simultaneously sophisticated and bucolic, sleepy and invigorating, an intoxicating and alluring mix emblematic of Washington at its most beautiful: the soaring mountain views and waterway vistas that stretch to the horizon. If you want to ride your bike, take an invigorating hike or just sit in your easy chair and read, you’ve found the perfect place. Whidbey residents like to boast that the island gets only half as much rain as Seattle, and after this year’s brutal winter, that’s quite a selling point. Visiting Coupeville whetted my appetite to visit the other towns on Whidbey – Langley, Clinton, Oak Harbor, Freeland. I can’t wait to get back there. When you plan your trip, check out the official tourism website: www.WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com. Here’s how I advise spending a weekend getaway in Coupeville on Whidbey Island.

VOYAGE Coupeville is about a two-hour jaunt from Seattle. On I-5, take exit 189 (near Everett) and travel west to the Mukilteo Ferry dock.

Ferries leave every half hour (www.wsdot. wa.gov/ferries). Be sure to allow extra time in peak season, as the lines can be long. For those who want to avoid ferry lines, bring your bikes; Whidbey is a two-wheeler’s dream. If you want recession-proof transportation, there is free bus service on Whidbey (www.islandtransit.org).

SLEEP Being a city boy, I’m used to waking up to the constant drone of urban noise. At the Whidwood Bed & Breakfast Inn (www. whidwood.com), I was nudged from sleep ever-so-gently by the sun streaming through the skylight in my blissfully quiet room. Yes, I could get used to this. The smell of freshly brewed coffee wafted through the halls to my spacious room (queen-sized bed and futon sofa, plenty of closet space, adjacent sun room), encouraging me to get out of bed for a delicious breakfast of smoked salmon, fresh fruit, yogurt, and bagels served by my delightful hosts, innkeepers Chris and Ron. They have created a warm and welcoming atmosphere accented by cedar walls and ceilings, endless bookshelves bulging with new and antique tomes of every variety. The

Visit us online www.sgn.org

Inn is surrounded by spectacular gardens, maintained with obvious loving care and skill, which envelop visitors in a cocoon of color. You can take a long soak in the outdoor hot tub to relax those tired muscles after a long day of hiking. There are only two guest rooms at the Whidwood, which only adds to its quiet ambiance. Don’t just sit there; make a reservation immediately!

be Kapaw’s Iskreme (www.kapaws.com).

As a connoisseur of frozen desserts, the chocolate mousse ice cream nearly brought tears to my eyes. There are at least 16 other flavors that will tempt you. When a buddy offered me a taste of his white chocolate raspberry truffle cone, I almost didn’t give it back – no wonder there was a line out the door!

EAT DO/SEE When I asked locals to name their favorBe sure to take a walk on Front Street, the ite eateries, The Oystercatcher (www.oys- main shopping drag in Coupeville, where tercatcherwhidbey.com) in Coupeville was on everyone’s list, and owners/chefs Jamie and Joe proved them all right. I knew I was in for a great meal when I took my first bite of my appetizer: asparagus, roasted and then chilled, mixed with local white and black beans topped with crème fraiche – absolutely scrumptious! I could have easily made a meal of just appetizers, which included tender pan-fried oysters and decadently succulent veal sweetbreads. For the main course, I had their heavenly, melt-in-your-mouth goat cheese dumplings: soft little pillows filled with tart cheese, complemented by savory braised greens. Desserts ran the gamut from tangy homemade sorbets to a divinely rich Coffee Pot de Crème, and a creamy, flourless hazelnut gateau hat sent our entire party out into the night in a state of culinary bliss. The handsome dining room (which surrounds the open kitchen) has a classic, relaxed vibe conducive to intimacy and easy conversation. Dress-up or casual attire are both fine here.

Cheerful hosts Rita and Chris opened the Mosquito Fleet Galley restaurant (12 Front Street) earlier this year and it has quickly become a waterfront staple. From our windowside table, we had a crystal clear view of Mt. Baker to the east, as well as a view of the beach beneath us through a small plexiglass window under our table! Comfort food is the order of the day here, and every delectable dish in this reasonably priced, casually colorful eatery is homemade. I started lunch with their steamingly rich clam chowder, followed by a spicy pulled pork sandwich and tangy coleslaw. I sampled my friend’s slice of berry pie, a heavenly mélange of marionberries, blueberries and raspberries in a light, buttery crust even Martha Stewart would envy.

Looking for a more rowdy atmosphere?

Try Toby’s Tavern (www.tobysuds.com), where you can hang out with the locals or shoot a game of pool while having some great local seafood specialties. The salmon fish and chips and fresh-steamed Penn Cove mussels are especially tasty.

If you need a reward for a long hike (if not, find another excuse!), your next stop should

June 19, 2009

you have your choice of eateries, galleries, people-watching and window shopping.

Whidbey Island will easily fill all your outdoor activity requirements. It has five (count ‘em, five) State Parks, innumerable water views, hiking trails, as well as horseback riding, bird-watching, kayaking, and whale-watching. Locals told me that the best hiking trails close to Coupeville are in Fort Ebey State Park. Be sure to bring your binoculars to observe all sorts of wildlife up close as you hike. If kayaking is on your must-do list, just head to Coupeville Wharf where rentals are readily available.

If you love lighthouses like I do, be sure to head to Fort Casey State Park, where Admiralty Head Lighthouse majestically overlooks Admiralty Inlet and the Keystone-Port Townsend ferry crossing. I also happen to love all things lavender – after all, it is our (un)official color – so a visit to the Lavender Wind Farm (www.lavenderwind.com) was an easy choice. It has acres of lavender fields, gorgeous gardens, a koi pond, a lavender labyrinth, and gift shop, where you can even buy lavender ice cream.

On my way home, I stopped at Greenbank Farm to tour the Sunday Farmers Market (May through October), where food and crafts abound. Even if you’re not buying anything, the folks at the market booths are warm, friendly, and chatty. There are also numerous galleries and gift shops, as well as a very popular café serving great, fresh local fare along with breads from the local Screaming Banshee Baker. (The flax seed bread we had was so scrumptious that my traveling buddy and I bought two loaves to take home.) Wanting one more comforting stop before leaving Greenbank, I checked out Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens (www.meerkerkgardens.org). If you think you’ve seen all the colors of the rainbow, think again. Meerkerk has rhodies in every conceivable color, in addition to extensive walking trails, romantic gazebos, a gift shop, and a nursery.

Seattle Gay News 19

Honolulu's Rainbow Film Festival not to be missed How would you improve a trip to the Hawaiian island of Oahu filled with amazing food, excellent entertainment, and exciting fun in the tropical sun? I would suggest making sure your trip coincides with the Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, in memory of Adam Baran (HRFF).

Adam Baran was a local favorite and an employee of Hula’s Bar and Lei Stand (the club is still going strong after many years, and in sporty new digs closer to the beach).

He was also a fledgling music video director who had won a Billboard magazine award for one of his videos just before he died of AIDS in the late ‘80s. The first HRFF was held at Hula’s in his honor 20 years ago.

The 20th edition of the HRFF ran May 21-24 in the Doris Duke Theatre at the Honolulu Academy of Arts in beautiful Honolulu, Hawaii. The roster included films from all over the world, a couple of local flicks, and a screening of the inspirational Oscarwinner Milk to close out the festivities.

Along for the ride was special guest, Academy Award-winning screenwriter of Milk, Dustin Lance Black. Another celebrity that showed was special guest host of Sunday’s screening and gala, Emmy-winning comedian/writer/actor and Hollywood Squares regular, Bruce Vilanch. In addition, Seattle’s own celeb filmmaker/screenwriter David Rothmiller, director of for my wife… , also showed up to support his documentary, which was screening in competition.

Clapham Junction, a dark spellbinder from the UK, opened the festival Thursday evening after a Hawaiian chant by local artist Peter Espiritu and a lovely hula by dancers from his Tau Dance Theater.

In Clapham Junction, the narratives of a number of Queer men interweave through 36 hours, ending in the doldrums of a hot summer night in Clapham, South London.

The film has a couple of uplifting moments, some oppressively sad moments, a few frustrating moments, and one truly horrific moment. Though the dark elements far outweigh anything uplifting, the film is thought-provoking in a unique way. It does owe a debt to Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu’s Amores Perros and Paul Haggis’ Crash, two great films that owing a debt to is no shame.

Still, Clapham Junction has a unique honesty and sophisticated understatement that

Lance Rae

by Scott Rice SGN Contributing Writer

Seattle filmmaker/screenwriter David Rothmiller and Emmy-winning comedian/writer/actor Bruce Vilanch

is lacking in the other two films.

Clapham Junction went on to win best feature film at the HRFF. Ferron… girl on a road played Saturday evening as the anchor of the “Girlz Showcase.” I believed this would be Lesbian night at the HRFF, and my theory was proved when three guys (myself included) and a theater full of women enjoyed this sweet concert movie masquerading as documentary. Ferron, for the six of you in Seattle who don’t know, is a folk singer with a cult following who opted out of the music business 10 years ago after a bad deal with a major record label. She reunites with her band, records some news songs, and takes the show on a short tour. The film consists of about

12 songs performed at one of these shows intercut with interviews of Ferron and her bandmates.

Ferron… girl on a road went on to win best documentary, and I won’t quibble too much with that decision. It’s always fascinating to get inside the head of an artist, and that is amplified whenever that artist is truly unique like Ferron. for my wife…, the other documentary at the HRFF with ellipses in the title, is a locally made film that I loved and reviewed last fall when it played the Seattle Lesbian and Gay Film Festival. This is a solid documentary that is well crafted and inhabits its cultural moment like few documentaries ever have. steven lane

For instance, the movie played the HRFF on a Saturday afternoon, and on Tuesday the California Supreme Court upheld the right of the majority to dictate civil law based on religious mythology through the vote. This bitter pill is mollified slightly by progress in states like Maine, Iowa, Vermont, and Washington State. for my wife… is so current that Rothmiller had to reedit the film to keep up with the ever-changing politics of marriage equality. for my wife… did earn an honorable mention in the documentary category, ultimately losing to Ferron… girl on a road. However, I think a tie would have been a more accurate judgment of both projects.

There were a couple of short films that I liked that deserve mention, even though they didn’t win anything. The Postcard hails from South Korea and is a charming comedy with wonderful comedic acting and a tight plot for the first two thirds of the film. It’s too bad the ending reads a bit like a punch line and that nobody told director Josh Kim that he didn’t need the last 30 seconds. Regardless, the short has a sweet heart, a deft wit, and is rife with pretty guys and girls.

I also enjoyed Boycrazy, the homage to Broadway that never forgets what it is – I think. For 90% of the time, you are sure this is purposeful satire. Then, every once in a while, you forget, and the film seems to forget, that it is purposeful satire, and then it starts to get silly and then you, and the film, get reminded that it’s not all that serious after all.

Boycrazy most likely began life as the real-deal Broadway-style musical where boy gets boy, boy loses boy, boy gets two boys and doesn’t know if he wants even one.

I believe that somewhere along the way, writer/director John Sobrack got wise and added the self-referential jokes that save the film. This is pure speculation, but I’d love to ask Sobrack directly.

Indeed, even with the familiar Queer milieu including gyms, bathrooms, chatrooms, and beaches, everything is fresh and funny.

And gently ribbing Broadway’s bloated selfabsorption is always a good time.

Beautiful Oahu

20 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Celebrating 36 Years!

Visit us online www.sgn.org

steven lane

Beauty Brawl, by first-time director Kevyn K. M. Fong, won the best Hawaiian production award. This one is a love-hate proposition for me. This little movie is technically impressive. The sound is complicated and employs a number of old sound cues to good effect. The camera angles are nice, the editing is solid, and the lighting looks great.

Overall, the production values rock.

The problem is with the story; it’s lacking in some details and overwrought with others. This took me out of the movie.

The setup works okay: local stylist Philippe (with a “PH” not an “F”) is off to start his own salon, but feeling some misgivings about moving on from his comfy spot at his current salon where he’s top dog.

Philippe’s replacement is the inexplicably named Jorgeo (this is where things unravel), fresh off the plane from Kentucky and wanting to either steal Philippe’s clientele or simply make Philippe happy, we don’t ever know.

The ending feels like they ran out of money and had to cobble things together with what they had. This probably isn’t true, but the ending certainly doesn’t live up to the rest of the film and it seems odd tacked on to the end of such a well-crafted project.

The acting is fun with solid performances by both leads (both gorgeous boys, by the way) in thanklessly swishy roles that reflect the nature of broad comedy. However, the woman who plays the salon owner steals the show. I hear from cast members it was her first acting gig. If this is true, she’s a natural and I hope she pursues more roles. Her comedic timing is flawless and her face is made of rubber. I wish I had access to their correct names, but I wasn’t provided a press kit and cast details are not listed on the HRFF website.

The director is the one to watch here. Fong obviously knows how to make movies, but he may need to have someone else write the story.

Weak Species, directed by Dan Faltz was hands down the most controversial film screened at the festival. This polarizing film even caused a ruckus among the programming committee. While I like the film a lot, there are also a few problems that need to be worked out if, as I hear, the funding for a feature length version is a go.

Erik Smith (who thankfully dropped the middle name “Scott” from his professional credits) is mesmerizing as George, a selfdestructive teen that runs into a couple of nasty men who are happy to help him realize his destructive desires.

Brendan Bradley fares less well as the self-deluded artist wannabe, Steve. He admittedly plays a character who really wants to be smarmy, and the trouble may lie as much with the writing as it does with the acting, but I just couldn’t buy into the character. A bit of subtlety would have served Bradley well, especially in the shadow of Smith’s modulated performance.

Weak Species is a terrifying film. About 10 people left the theater at one point. And I already mentioned the discord it caused among the festival programming committee. However, the violence is not graphic, even if some argue it is salacious. I think it works metaphorically when you consider how disaffected Queer youth can so easily end up in the hands of nefarious sorts who the young folks think are fulfilling their desires. The world can be a rough place for young people with no support systems, and I believe that’s what this film is about.

I hope you get a chance to see it and decide for yourself. And remember, it’s all right to put your coat over your eyes. This one will stay with you for a while.

The closing-night gala on Sunday, May 24 began on a lovely tropical evening in the Henry Luce Pavillion, which is also part of the Honolulu Academy of Arts. The night was billed as Aloha Formal (Steven and I didn’t get it right, but we’ll never be known as savvy dressers) and included heavy pupus (Bruce Vilanch made the joke at the reception so I won’t bother to here) and local entertainment. Dustin Lance Black (who kept all three of his names) introduced the screening of Milk and followed it up with a short Q&A. (I got to meet him briefly but didn’t fawn over him, I promise.) It was a terrific party and festival, and I hope I’m invited back next year.

(left to right) Kevyn K. M. Fong, director of Beauty Brawl, Christopher Ian Matt, star of Beauty Brawl, and Scott Rice at the closing gala

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June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 21

Ten ways to deal with the fear of flying

by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer

stand that getting to Thailand from Seattle requires hopping on a plane, then here are non-scientific, non-therapeutic tips I often I love to fly. I look forward to being on recommended to friends and family that I an airplane almost as much as I enjoy the hope will prove useful to you on the day of whole trip itself. From the arrival at the air- flight. Bon voyage! port to the check-in counter to the in-flight 1) Bring lots to do onboard amenities, I absolutely love it! Despite a My problem is boredom, so I’ve learned freakish thunderstorm several years ago en route to Key West from Miami, in which our to take all kinds of materials and gadgets turbo prop danced in the air for a good five with me on-board the plane. I’ll even punminutes, I’ve always considered flying to ish myself the week leading up to a flight be a very safe form of travel. But if you’re by purchasing DVDs or books that I dessomeone who’s terrified of being 35,000 perately want to dive into, but I won’t open feet above ground, and you clearly under- them until we’re airborne – this way, it gives

me something to really look forward to. I remember buying Madonna’s Ray of Light on the day of release, but waiting until a flight later that week to listen to it – from the moment we reached 10,000 feet to the prelanding announcement, I listened to it over and over again with delight. I recommend taking items that are guaranteed to grab your attention vs. items that have potential to do so, in other words if you’re a diehard fan of Lost or Entourage vs. a so-so fan of Desperate Housewives, you’d want to pack the former because they have a much stronger chance of keeping you entertained. I’m a music devotee, so I download two or four new albums on my iPod before a flight and wait until we’re airborne to enjoy them, and combined with a favorite beverage I’m as happy as can be in the clouds. I also recommend, and I’ve been doing this for years, ripping out individual pages from magazines or newspapers and taking them with you in a manila folder, then reading them one by one during the flight – and I’m not talking about serious reading material either, I tote all the trashy, gossipy, meaningless, guilty pleasure articles with me to read on a plane. The key is not allowing even a minute of your flight going unplanned; have something at the ready to listen, read or do for the entire leg of your trip.

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2) Cocktails take the edge off I’m not a big drinker, though I turn into a lush when I fly. After clearing security, I make a beeline for the bar or first-class lounge (if I’m fortunate enough) and stay there until my final boarding call – interestingly, I’ve missed flights because of this. Sea-Tac Airport has great cocktail spots, noticeably Vino Volo (SGN’s Top Ten Bars-Lounges, Best of Travel 2008), Anthony’s Restaurant, Seattle Tap Room, and Africa Lounge. Cocktails help take the edge off, and watching complete strangers swigging tequila shots at 8 a.m. might ease your nerves and allow you to hop on that plane and get it over with. At some point, you have to board the plane – why not do it with a good buzz? Onboard, I upgrade to a premium cocktail because after all the effort to make this flight – laundry, packing, airport shuttle, security, etc. – I deserve a very good drink. Cocktails can aid when it comes to turbulence; on a Houston to Seattle flight two years ago, we hit a patch of strong turbulence, and I had a great buzz going, so I just closed my eyes and pretended I was on a carnival ride, while the person sitting next to me clutched the armrest with everything she had – seriously, I was giggling as she was terrified. I don’t suggest getting drunk, just a buzz to settle the nerves.

3) Chat with fellow passengers Remember that scene in the movie French Kiss, when a fearful Meg Ryan is sitting on the runway next to Kevin Kline and he purposely argues with her during takeoff to take her mind away from it? Bingo, it works! If you’re fortunate to sit next to a passenger who appears polite, let them know upfront that you don’t fly well and you’d appreciate some conversation along the way to pass the time. Years ago, on a nine-hour

SGN

Seattle Gay News

22 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Celebrating 36 Years!

flight to Paris, I sat next to a woman who mildly panicked any time the airplane made a sudden jolt. I finally took my headset off and began talking with her, and we proceeded to talk for much of the trip until we landed. Out of boredom and slight curiosity, I’ve had countless borderline-tactless discussions with people sitting next to me – once, a fellow passenger confided in me that he’d cheated on his wife during a recent business trip (that was an adventure!). And, believe it or not, I once sat next to a guy who later became the husband of a good friend.

4) Extra-long bathroom breaks Again, out of boredom, I remember going to the lavatory for no apparent reason, and it suddenly dawned on me: this makes a great place to dance. I was buzzed, listening to an electronic album on my iPod, and my legs needed stretching, so at 33,000 feet I boogied in an airplane restroom. This dispensed 12 minutes of my flight time, and surprisingly no one was in line when I came out. I see no reason why you can’t escape to the restroom for 10 minutes on a flight, possibly multiple times, if you’re struck with a mild case of panic. Brush your teeth, do your hair, wash your face, or dance as I did, but with no windows it’s a private, enclosed nook away from your seat.

5) Upgrade to business or first-class Not everyone can afford a cabin upgrade, but if you can, do it. More comfort equals better flight. The advantage of having more legspace means you have more wiggle room (literally) during takeoff, landing, or patches of turbulence, the times you could really use some extra space. You also get free drinks, which American-based airlines are notorious on charging for even for long-haul flights. When I flew to France last September, almost three hours alone were dissolved by the consumption of complimentary food and beverages. Also, entertainment is often gratis to first-class passengers on short-haul flights, while main cabin passengers must either bring their own headsets and/or pay for usage of the airline’s OnDemand services.

8) Think destination, destination, destination An incentive of any onboard passenger is to get to where they’re going, but it’s extremely beneficial to the jittery traveler to know that each minute is a minute closer to their destination. When traveling to somewhere fun, like Oahu, I always bring magazine articles pertaining to the island to create extra excitement along the way. Also, being the Virgo that I am, I’ll write list after list during my flight of things I want to buy or do while I’m there. Halfway to Hawaii, I’m already imagining myself on the beach with a mai tai.

Pride Parade Volunteers Needed Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers to monitor the food collection bins throughout the parade route. You will still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends.

Please contact Joe at jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.

9) Rest well the night before Groggy travelers become even more miserable during a flight, which is why I recommend a good night’s rest the night before. This includes no hangovers. Especially if you can’t fall asleep on planes, often the case with fearful passengers, those extra hours of sleep will do you wonders. I also recommend going for a walk before heading to the airport to stretch your legs prior to your trip – it’s become a ritual for me to walk the length of Waikiki Beach right before checking out of my hotel, a meditationin-motion tool that relaxes me before the possible delays or frustrations at the airport.

10) Keep track of your flight time manually This might sound kooky, but I do it all the time. As soon as the plane lifts off the ground, keep a manual tally of your time – for example, if it’s a 2-hour, 15-minute flight to San Francisco, write 2:15 on a fresh sheet of paper and throughout the trip deduct minutes from it. This helps by giving you a visual of how much time you have before landing. I did this on an excruciatingly long flight from Amsterdam, and completely underestimated the time remaining as 2 hours when suddenly a view of Mt. Rainier appeared through my window. Again, it’s something else to keep your mind occupied, and each 5 or 10 minutes deducted provides a bit more excitement prior to landing.

6) Watch YouTube videos prior to flight Some medical professionals recommend flight simulators and aviation books prior to flying, hoping that a better understanding of how an aircraft operates will help your overall tension. I don’t disagree with these experts, so go for it if you can afford the fees.

But a simpler and less expensive method, if you’re looking for visuals of a flight experience, is to log onto www.youtube.com and search for “takeoff” and landing” – people routinely post videos of actual takeoffs and landings, even from the most remote places on earth. Try inserting a destination as part of the search, like “landing London” and you’ll find dozens of videos filmed directly from a passenger’s seat as they landed at Heathrow or Gatwick airports. I’ve spent many hours watching takeoffs and landings to cities high on my list of places to visit, including Tokyo, Buenos Aires, Sydney, and Dubai.

7) Make use of the airline’s entertainment system Depending on the airline and length of flight, you might be treated to complimentary on-board entertainment. Virgin America has an excellent entertainment system, offering passengers an extensive selection of music videos, satellite TV, video games, full-length albums, and chatrooms that allow you to socialize with fellow passengers on your flight (hey, dude in 23A, you’re a hottie!). Last year on a Northwest flight from Seattle to Honolulu, I watched two great films back to back in the main cabin for free, Michael Clayton and Gone Baby Gone – I even took my own DVDs and a fully-charged iPod, but never used them.

Embarrassingly, I admit to watching Forgetting Sarah Marshall and Sex and the City twice aboard Air France last fall. I suggest looking up your flight on the airline’s website prior to your trip and finding out if/ what will be offered.

Visit us online www.sgn.org

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 23

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Sizing up three downtown Seattle hotels

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by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer

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www.oceanchartersinc.com 24 Seattle Gay News

June 19, 2009

Whatever the reason – economic crunch, lack of vacation time, priorities at home – an overnight retreat in Seattle is a great idea, and one that has increased in popularity within the Gay community. Birthdays, anniversaries and college graduations are just a few occasions that have encouraged pods of mostly Gay men to book rooms and dinner reservations at several downtown hotels. Personally, I believe Seattle has one of the best variety of hotels in the country, so if you can’t make it to Hawaii any time soon, then at least pamper yourself with a night away from home, at home. Here’s the lowdown on three downtown properties.

Hotel 1000 www.hotel1000seattle.com Hands down, Hotel 1000 is Seattle’s best luxury hotel – you can defend the Sorrento, Alexis and Fairmont until you’re blue in the face but it will do little to change my mind. Even pop superstar Britney Spears adores this contemporary haven, hanging her celebrity tiara here when she brought the earth-circling Circus tour to the Puget Sound. Grammy-winning babes John Mayer and John Legend and veteran musician Paul Weller have also rested their assets at Hotel 1000. Rooms are gorgeously decorated in a Northwest palate of browns with abundant window views on each side, and modern pluses create a sophisticated yet warm feel that vibrates throughout. In-room amenities range from two-person pedestal tubs with overhead shower faucets to wallmounted, swiveling flatscreen TVs to Molton Brown bath products, not to mention snuggly robes, complimentary morning newspaper, crisp Thai linens, down pillows, and a heating system that automatically adjusts to your body temperature.

Hotel 1000’s signature restaurant-lounge is BOKA Kitchen + Bar, providing guests and local diners a wonderful menu of regional favorites – while executive chef Angie Roberts plays it safe with familiars

such as halibut, chicken breast and crab cakes, her dishes are a consistent perfection of abundant flavor and elegant presentation. I never recommend a place that I wouldn’t go to myself, which is why you’ll likely catch me diving into a bacon mac ‘n’ cheese on a weekend night – just $8 off the bar menu – or sinking my teeth into a plate of fresh Northwest tacos served with a zesty chipotle remoulade for lunch. BOKA, high on my list of suggested stops en route to a Benaroya Hall performance or other live show, has assembled a $25 three-course Pride Brunch on June 28 that will feature items such as baked-to-order mini cinnamon rolls, brown butter crepes and Oregon hazelnut-encrusted French toast. Spaahh at Hotel 1000 deserves a mention, if not for its separated pedicure station than for its terrific “Happy Hour,” where you can indulge with a 30-minute Pick-Me-Up massage ($48) or 30-minute express facial ($45) - offered Monday thru Friday between 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., you can easily schedule your treatment on your lunch break or treat a colleague to an early afternoon birthday surprise.

Be sure to tell your out-of-town friends about Hotel 1000’s Pride Package, starting at $385, that includes a deluxe city-view room, two tickets for The Cuff Complex’s post-parade bash (with special entry bracelets, no waiting in line), overnight parking, two BOKA discount cards, two signature cocktails at BOKA, Hotel 1000 tote bag, and 15 percent off a visit to Spaahh or Decleor eye cream.

Hotel Max www.hotelmaxseattle.com Where do cool people stay at in Seattle?

Hotel Max, of course. What used to be the old Vance Hotel on 6th and Stewart is now a hipster hotspot that woos art-inspired travelers and many touring rock bands. Each of its 163 rooms is adorned with blown-up photographs by Northwest artists, including giant stills of local music icons Kurt Cobain and Eddie Vedder – throughout the hotel, over 350 pieces of art are displayed.

Unique to the Max and its sister locations in Portland and Tacoma – Hotel deLuxe, Hotel Lucia and Hotel Murano – are the “spiritual menus,” allowing guests to select their preferred reading material, from The Koran to the Book of Mormon. I found my bathroom to be on the petite side, though the rest of the space was more than enough needed for my overnight urban retreat – while it was chilly outside, I enjoyed the warmth and comfort of a soft bed, flatscreen TV and Torrefazione coffee. The Aveda bath products are a nice bonus, as are the plush in-room robes.

The Red Fin, on the ground level of Hotel Max, is an Asian-infused restaurant, part sushi counter, that constantly gets hit with a happy hour rush – the $6 Seattle roll, $7 chicken satay and $3.50 pint of Manny’s is a light meal by itself. I recently stopped by for dinner and was pleased with the shitake mushroom dumplings, aburi salmon, and maple leaf duck breast – however, to be honest, I’ve eaten here before and the food was a notch better. The service was outstanding; attentive servers never let my water glass go dry and the bartender made drink recommendations that were on the money. No worries if you leave your laptop at home, just use one of two hard-wire computer stations in the hotel’s 24-hour business center, and for those needing to keep in shape, a 24hour fitness center is available on premise.

Hotel Max loves its non-hetero clientele, extending a year-round “Gaycation” package starting at $199 that includes a room, two “Maxtinis” at Red Fin, and a “Climax Box” filled with naughty goodies – pink handcuffs with matching blindfold, glow in

Celebrating 36 Years!

the dark dice, feather, lube, MiniMax vibrator – an O Boy Kit (for the dudes) and O My Clitoral Stimulating gel-tonguedinger (for the ladies).

Four Seasons www.fourseasons .com/seattle The name Four Seasons is synonymous with luxury travelers – you need only walk into the Whistler hotel belonging to this well-known chain for a true definition of splurge. When Seattle opened its doors to the Four Seasons in 2008, a high-rise hotel and residential development on 1st and Union, the buzz was thicker than molasses – with a prime downtown address and huge brand name to stand on, the Four Seasons was on track to be the city’s newest “it” spot. Unfortunately, it hasn’t reached that level of excitement because it simply isn’t as exciting as one would think – don’t get me wrong, it’s beautiful, pristine and owns some of the best views of Elliott Bay. But the wow factor is missing. I stayed here earlier this year, and was impressed more with its amenities than the accommodations, which is not how you want to remember an overnight experience. My room was spacious and lovely, and the unobstructed view of Elliott Bay is worth repeating, yet the distinction of Four Seasons wasn’t here – with the exception of a knockout marble restroom (where I spent the least of my time), I found the color scheme to be unflattering, and the decor was classy, though not vibrant. The bed was super-comfy, large flatscreen TV with DVD was much-needed on a cold evening, and a rainhead shower is always a nice touch, but it didn’t feel like I was sleeping at a Four Seasons, and this is a problem for a

chain with such a reputable following. This 147-room hotel is grand – I can’t over emphasize its beauty enough – yet I was looking to be blown away.

Art Restaurant and Lounge is the Four Seasons’ premiere dining attraction, headed by chef Kerry Sear and inspired by the hotel’s impressive collection of work by Northwest-based artists. The layout of the room is stunning, and again those views of the water are unbeatable, though I chose to sit at the bar and mingle with fellow guests. Since my visit, the menu has slightly changed – likely adjusting to the season – and my organic green salad, duck entree and lemon meringue pie with Meyer lemon sorbet were good, though for the price and a solid reputation on the line, this meal was underwhelming. I suggest drinks and nibbles at Art if you’re looking for a swanky locale on the way to the 5th Avenue Theatre, but for an amazing dinner that will leave you speechless I can’t recommend it in good faith. However, I can suggest the Spa at Four Seasons with top praise – in fact, it’s one of only a few spas in Seattle that I’d refer anyone to. My massage therapist had magical hands, finding the tiniest kink in my back and neck – firm pressure, careful attention to stress areas, and very good techniques helped win this massage enthusiast over. Be sure to view the hotel’s spa page for their “Summer Spa Tapas Treatments.”

While I didn’t become a big fan of the Four Seasons or its restaurant, I did go gaga over its infinity pool and outdoor deck with impeccable views of the water and Olympics. The fitness center is equally dynamite, giving health disciples a modern, expansive space to work out at.

dancer 2 / photobucket.com

Hotel 1000

Pride Parade Volunteers Needed Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers to monitor the food collection bins throughout the parade route. You will still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends.

Please contact Joe at jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.

Visit us online www.sgn.org

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 25

Shaun Knittel

Cruise

continued from cover there is never any need for cash, or for that matter, a credit card. All guests are issued a ship card and you simply swipe the card and your account is charged. At the end of the cruise, you settle the bill with the customer service desk. I gave the front desk my credit card information at the beginning of the cruise, so my bill would be automatically paid upon my debarkation of the vessel.

The system works beautifully.

Memorizing the ship may take a day or two, but you’ll get the hang of it. At each of the 12 elevators is a diagram of the ship, and signs telling you what restaurants and businesses are on each floor. On the Norwegian Star, three decks housed most of the main attractions, as well as the ship’s casino. The Grand Atrium, located mid-ship, was the perfect place to get your bearings if you got lost.

RSVP takes over the entire ship as the host. The ship’s staff couldn’t have been more accommodating. This being my first all-Gay cruise, I was worried about how the crew would interact with us. Much to my surprise, the staff didn’t even blink an eye when they saw two men kissing or holding hands – in fact, I saw more than one crewman dancing with the throngs of Speedoclad men at a T-Dance.

Staterooms The rooms aboard the Norwegian Star range from an interior, with no view, to a suite, which includes a balcony. If you’ve got the extra bread, then it would be advantageous to upgrade. My room had a balcony affording me the opportunity to watch the sunset, fall asleep to the sounds of the ocean, and sip coffee in the crisp morning air. I was amazed at how big the room was, leaving room for a TV, small desk, couch and coffee table. The TV was especially helpful; four of the stations were internal, so RSVP broadcast information about upcoming entertainment and parties while the Norwegian crew broadcast information about the ship’s schedule and

26 Seattle Gay News

T-Dance Mellow Yellow

June 19, 2009

informational videos about the next port of call. Each night, room stewards dressed down the room and left a helpful copy of the Freestyle Daily, the ship’s newspaper, which contained information about the next day, from events itinerary to daily specials at the spa. It is important to note that wireless internet was not offered in any room, and I instead had to visit the ship’s internet café. I heard a number of guests commenting on how nice it was to be free of the cell phone and e-mail for a week. The in-cabin bathroom was a manageable size. I would recommend bringing your own toiletries; the shampoos and lotion products were subpar. RSVP encouraged us to decorate our cabin doors, and boy, did we! Feather boas, fake palm trees, and glitter could be found hanging from many a stateroom door. I was impressed with the stateroom’s soundproofing; if there was a party going on above or below my room, it never affected the ambient noise of the ocean.

Dining Options International cuisines abound, and I quickly realized that shipboard dining was going to be a real treat. Norwegian Cruise Lines developed something they call “Freestyle Cruising.” The idea is you can wear what you want and eat when you want. There is no assigned seating, so it makes it that much easier to meet fellow guests. In fact, I met the bulk of my newfound friends at the Market Café, the free buffet on Deck 12 that served breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If you so desired, you could shell out a few extra bucks, averaging around $15 per person, to eat at one of the ship’s specialty restaurants.

I spent extra to eat at the sushi and sake bar, which was a delight when the chef dutifully taught me how to roll sushi. I tried lobster tacos at the Tex-Mex Endless Summer restaurant and had a hearty portion of Chicken Parmesan at La Tratorria. Although it’s fun trying out the endless list of dining options, I’m a budget vacationer. The ship’s free buffet was by far the best place to dine on the Star because they offered the same food choices, minus steak and lobster, as every specialty restaurant. The buffet dessert bar

Celebrating 36 Years!

had a chocolate fountain; there was an impressive selection of sushi and seafood, as well as down-home favorites such as fried chicken and mashed potatoes. The pool deck featured a free-of-charge ice cream bar and short-order grill. Room service was available around the clock. “Freestyle Cruising” made it so I never had to wait in line for a meal. Whenever I am on vacation, two things – food and lodging – can make or break the experience. In this case, RSVP and Norwegian definitely made the grade for good service, wonderful presentation, and nurtured the atmosphere of getting to know your neighbor.

Bar Services Gay men and women enjoy cocktails. That is a true statement. The ship’s bar staff told me how much fun they were having with the all-Gay cruisers. Between endless pool parties, T-Dances and theater shows, passengers were throwing back drinks like it was Pride weekend. There is an extra charge for alcohol; however, you pay far less for drinks aboard ship then you would at your local watering hole. The Norwegian Star had an English pub, a dance club with video bar and carousel horses, a cocktail lounge, wine bar, and the ever-popular poolside bar. The endless staff of cute Asian, European and Latin American barmen was an absolute pleasure to order drinks from as service was always fast, with a smile, and on a first-name basis. By the end of the cruise, it was common to have a favorite among the group making sure your drink never ran dry. Each bar and lounge – 11 in total – had a full bar with any kind of alcohol you could imagine and a very impressive selection of international beers. Spinnaker Lounge, at the bow of the ship, was my absolute favorite. The lounge was spacious with windows from floor to ceiling, allowing amazing views of the Pacific. On more than one night, my shipboard friends and I took our cocktails in the Spinnaker, chatting about the day’s happenings and watching the sunset.

you, especially as an LGBT person, the ports of call are of utmost importance. Can I kiss my boyfriend in public? Is the port city Gay-friendly? These are valid questions for the pink traveler. In this case, an all-Gay vacation company like RSVP is the way to go.

The three Mexican ports, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, and Puerto Vallarta were perfect locations to drop off nearly 1,000 Gay men and women all at once. Of the group, Puerto Vallarta was the real gem. Cabo San Lucas is worth seeing, but a bit overrated. It was nice to sip a cocktail near the bay and say you’ve been to the resort town, but I really don’t see what all the rage is about. Mazatlan was an authentic Mexican city. I enjoyed the township feel of it. As a tourist, I was able to just sort of blend in with the locals. Particularly, I liked not being hassled by local sidewalk salesmen to buy a bunch of stuff I didn’t want. It was Puerto Vallarta that took my breath away. The clean beaches, beautiful men, and friendly atmosphere of the resort town were very inviting. Along the beaches I saw a man making the most extraordinary sand sculpture of a larger-than-life-size Last Supper. I bought a painting from a local artist who used different shades of brown, made from coffee ink, to paint scenes of Puerto Vallarta. The painting smells like a fresh cup of joe. I had tortilla soup at a roadside café and sampled flavored tequila at a local bar with a view of the sea. Puerto Vallarta also has one of the highest concentrations of Gay Mexican men, so it was very cruisy. Blue Chairs Beach Hotel is located directly behind the Gay beach, and a few blocks from the local Gay clubs. I saw half the Star passengers there; it was the definitive spot to be for locals and tourists. Transportation to and from the ship while in port is performed skillfully; again, I never had to wait in line. You need to be mindful of the time, however; the ship docks for an average of six to eight hours for each port and will leave – with or without you – when it’s time to pull anchor and steam towards the next destination.

Ports of Call When deciding which cruise is right for

Entertainment RSVP really stands out when it comes to

Visit us online www.sgn.org

entertaining their guests. The daily itinerary was jam-packed with everything from a silent art auction to bingo and Gay dating games. You could take a class on international beers, cooking, or how to choose the perfect bottle of wine for your taste.

The classes, group events and parties were the perfect way for a solo traveler like myself to meet all kinds of interesting people.

Live entertainment, ranging from acoustic to cabaret, could be heard in any one of the bars and lounges. Guests were encouraged to volunteer for pool games, the very entertaining costume party, and the swimsuit competition.

The Stardust Theater, an over-the-top gaudy red and gold entertainment venue, showcased nightly entertainment. I was worried the dance troupe, Jean Ann Ryan Company, would deliver some cheesy numbers, but they certainly did not disappoint. The international cast of vocalists and dancers entertained the audience with “Band on the Run” a ‘70s disco flashback, “Cirque Pacific” featuring Chinese acrobats, and “Music of the Night” a musical tribute to Andrew Lloyd Webber. International Dance recording artist Abigail Bailey turned the theater into a dance club, performing her hits, “Let the Joy Rise” and “Forever Young,” among others. The headline act, Debbie Reynolds, was a real treat. She made two appearances, a stage show in the theater, and – best of all – an intimate Q & A session in Spinnaker Lounge. For her stage show, Debbie sang her hits, dazzled the crowd with a Judy Garland medley, and danced and sang along with video images from her movie career.

The piano cabaret duo of Amy Armstrong and Freddy Allen stole the show. Armstrong and Allen are a modern-day Bette Midler and Barry Manilow, and they received a standing ovation after each of their three performances.

Each night, RSVP put together a themed party where cruisers could dance, including the underwear party, bear “Sweat” or “Mellow Yellow” retro T-Dances, and the very well attended leather party and “Hot Tamale” T-Dance.

All-Gay Cruise Tips I became a fan of all-Gay cruises within hours of coming aboard the Norwegian Star. My experience was a nonstop party from beginning to end, and I wasn’t the only one – everyone I came into contact with had a big smile on their face as if to say, “This is our ship, and we are going to party our way.” Don’t hesitate to go it alone; meeting new people was half the fun. Just because you brought a box of condoms doesn’t mean you have to leave with them! Hooking up aboard ship was a common thing; the atmosphere was conducive to playing the field.

Don’t be afraid to bring your partner, either, sex and partying are but one aspect of the Gay utopia of sailing with a Gay cruise. I saw plenty of Gay couples quietly enjoying time together poolside or sharing a candlelit dinner at the steakhouse. The point is, you can get away or be in the thick of it when cruising with RSVP. The choice is yours. I would recommend pampering yourself in the spa at least once. The prices, compared to most hotel spas, were extremely affordable. In-port days especially, the spa offered great deals for $99 that included up to three choices of services ranging from a massage to a mud bath. Speaking of ports, I recommend getting off the ship to enjoy a port or two. Mexican port cities are not dangerous like the border towns of Tijuana and Juarez. Not once did I feel I was in any danger while ashore in Mexico. Do not overdo it the first and second day. RSVP makes the itinerary doable, but pace yourself or you’ll end up napping the parties away nursing a hangover. Watch the sunset or sunrise at least once while sailing – it is terribly romantic and a wonderful time to gather your thoughts. Enjoy a drink or two, but remember the bill comes at the end. Those $6 cocktails adds up quick if you don’t pay attention. If you are traveling solo, get involved. Take a risk and participate in one of the contests, and before you know it, you’ll have a ton of new friends to experience the rest of the cruise with. Invite people to dine with you and make plans to meet others for drinks later in the night. You will find that an all-Gay cruise is the only way to cruise.

June 19, 2009

Seattle Gay News 27

HEAT THINGS UP IN ICELAND ICELAND PARTY WEEKEND PACKAGE FROM $1,395* PP DBL Package includes round-trip airfare and three hotel nights with buffet breakfast daily except arrival, round-trip airport/hotel transfers, tours and more!

Hit the Ice Bar, a bar made of… well, ice, of course, and then join the “runtur,” Iceland’s weekend version of a street party. Be prepared to meet an international cast of characters and leave with enough wild stories to fill your very own Saga. It’s a no-holds-barred weekend, brought to you by Europe’s “it” party destination. End your trip with a steamy dip in the Blue Lagoon… the perfect way to finish any adventure!

Stopover in gay-friendly Iceland for no additional airfare en route to 18 destinations throughout Scandinavia and Europe. This season, hit up hot spots like Amsterdam, Berlin, Copenhagen or London. It's two destinations for the price of one! + For more information, contact your travel agent, visit www.icelandair.us or call (877) 435-7940.

WWW.ICELANDAIR.US

TERMS & CONDITIONS: Departing SEA. PACKAGE: subject to availability and price change. Valid for departures Sep. 17 - Oct. 22, 2009. Also available at higher rates Jul. 23 - Sep. 10, 2009. Not included: personal travel insurance. Minimum stay 3 nights, maximum stay 14 nights; extra nights are at passenger expense. All nights must be in hotels booked through Icelandair Holidays. Cancellations/Changes subject to $400 penalty 30-60 days prior to departure; non-changeable 29 days or less prior to departure. All fees are per person. Lower-priced packages may be available on icelandair.us. Other restrictions apply. Seats are limited. *Prices quoted are exclusive of applicable taxes and official charges by destination of approx. $100 per person, including the September 11th Security Fee.