SAVORING THE SCENE

MEET HELEN FREUND, THE POPULAR TAMPA BAY TIMES' FOOD AND DINING CRITIC, WHO'S SPENT YEARS CULTIVATING A CONNOISSEUR'S PALATE.

By Nick Steele

With a job that many of us dream of having—and judging from her Instagram feed, a good work-life balance sprinkled with plenty of fun adventures—Helen Freund is the perfect guide to the very best our community has to offer. After all, few things boost your sense of well-being quite like a satisfying culinary experience.

What might surprise people about being a food critic?

My position is really more of a hybrid role, and only about half of my job is spent critiquing restaurants. The other half of the time I’m working on longer enterprise, trend and investigative stories, but of course, the dining out is the fun part. And even when I’m working on reviews, there’s more than just eating out and critiquing that goes into the work. For every restaurant review, I’m usually scheduling meals and photoshoots months in advance, and then spend a decent time reporting, researching and doing interviews before publishing the final piece.

What's your favorite local haunt and why?

I live near Gulfport so Pia’s Trattoria is always my go-to. I’ve been here so many times over the years and it is consistently great food and really lovely hospitality. If I’m just looking for a casual drink and some peel-and-eat shrimp, the “treehouse” bar at Billy’s Stone Crab in Tierra Verde can’t be beat.

A dish you frequently crave?

I think about the Korean fried chicken sandwich and tuna tostadas at Wild Child often.

Best/freshest seafood in the area?

I love The Tides Seafood Market & Provisions in Safety Harbor. They’ve got a great raw oyster selection and the Grouper Romesco is also fantastic.

Best alfresco dining?

Juno & The Peacock has a lovely setup right on Beach Drive in St. Pete. When the weather is nice, I also love to spend an afternoon at Olde Bay Cafe in Dunedin.

Best food with a view?

If you can time it right around sunset, the outside deck at Sea Worthy in Tierra Verde is every bit worth the drive.

Most innovative menu?

The creativity and seasonal menu progression at Il Ritorno is unparalleled.

Best cool hangout?

I love spending an evening at In Between Days in St. Petersburg for the moody lighting, good tunes and all-around great vibes. Slim Charmer, in the Grand Central District, is coming in hot too—with super swanky decor and a killer martini program.

Best fine dining?

Again, Il Ritorno is hard to beat. Their menu changes frequently, but if there's octopus on the menu, that's always a great bet.

Best comfort food?

I adore the burger at Brick & Mortar. And a deep-dish pie from Cappy’s always hits the spot.

Fave place for pastries?

The pastries at Le Clementine Bakeshop are incredible.

Best coffee or tea house?

I’m a big fan of Uptown Eats in St. Pete—their breakfast sandwich with collard greens is amazing.

What's your go-to for drinks?

For wine, I’ll hit up CellarMasters or Pistil House. If I’m in the mood for a cocktail, Slim Charmer, Intermezzo and Sonder Social Club are all great bets.

Your picks when you want something healthy

It’s a chain, but we’re a big Sweetgreen household. I also love the bun bowls and summer rolls at Alesia in St. Pete—super fresh and healthy.

What's a good spot for "Old Florida" food?

Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish.

Are you a food truck fan? If so, any that top the list?

I’m still mourning the loss of taco truck Te Invito—I think about their quesabirria and carnitas tacos often. Maybe they’ll reappear again sometime again in the future. A girl can dream!

Your newest food obsession?

50/50 martinis and whelks, which I recently had in Paris but have yet to find on a menu here. Also, a good mortadella sandwich—the one at Mazzaro's is incredible.

Favorite food/restaurant movies or books?

I love Julie & Julia. And Blood, Bones & Butter by Gabrielle Hamilton is fantastic.

For more delicious dish from Freund check out her dispatches at tampabay.com