St Albans Abbey in 1323

Tradition claims that King Offa of Mercia founded a monastery in 793 on the site of the tomb of St Alban. We know little of this early foundation other than that it was a double house for both men and women. The first Norman abbot, Paul of Caen, was appointed in 1077 and immediately set about rebuilding the Abbey church in the Norman (or Romanesque) style, starting with the great tower. Built from bricks and tiles from the ruined Roman town of Verulamium, this Norman church was largely completed by 1088. It was consecrated in 1115 under Abbot Richard d’Albini.

St Alban’s Abbey, one day’s ride from London and site of the martyrdom of the first English saint, began to gain in prestige and importance. Throughout most of the medieval period it was England’s premier Benedictine Abbey. Learning flourished – the Abbey’s scriptorium was known for its high-quality book production and writings. Famous chroniclers included Roger of Wendover, Matthew Paris and Thomas Walsingham; their writings are still valuable historical sources. Among the monks we find not only theologians and philosophers but also artists such as Walter of Colchester, poets, scientists and even a very early clockmaker, Abbot Richard of Wallingford.

At its height there were approximately 100 choir monks in the Abbey. The Benedictine rule of receiving all guests as though they were Christ himself led to many visitors passing through the Abbey and the town which grew up around it. Pilgrims came to pray at the shrines of Alban and Amphibalus, and kings with their courtiers came on progress.

Pilgrims arriving at the Abbey were said to fall to their knees in wonder at the sight of the nave with the magnificent collection of wall paintings which gave colour to the interior. The west-facing paintings on the north piers depict the Crucifixion with scenes of the Virgin Mary’s life below. The earliest of these is on the westernmost pillar. Dating from about 1225, it is the work of Walter of Colchester. Of the four large standing saints facing into the nave, the one of Saints Alban and Amphibalus overlooked the shrine of St Amphibalus in 1323. All are painted in earth colours onto a dry surface in the secco manner.

For further information on the wall paintings, see M.A Michael, Wall Paintings of St Albans Cathedral, (Scala, 2019), available in the Cathedral Shop. You can also see them, reimagined as they were 700 years ago, on guided tours and when the Cathedral’s Wondrous Wall Paintings are illuminated.