OUTDOOR BY ISPO

SPRING/SUMMER 20

S T E P H E N

H O R C H

OUTDOOR BY ISPO T h e r e p o r t cov e r s k ey t r e n d s , i n n ov a t i o n s a n d b r a n d h i g h l i g h t s i n t h e o u t d o o r/ a c t i v e s e c to r fo r S S 2 0 s e a s o n .

tsveti enlow for SSACHS MAGAZINE

OVERVIEW With 1000 exhibitors and more than 22,000 visitors, OutDoor by ISPO took place for the first time in Munich after relocating from Friedrichshafen. The tradeshow’s motto “there’s a perfect outdoor for everyone” manifested itself in the open space floor format and the multiple staged areas focused on particular t h e m e s r a n g i n g f r o m s u s t a i n a b i l i t y t o e q u a l i t y a n d i n c l u s i v i t y.

The newly designated Borderlands hall featured up & coming brands that are shaping the new urban outdoor concept.

T h e i n d u s t r y ’ s m a j o r f o c u s f o r S S 2 0 i s s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. H i g h l i g h t e d topics were global warming, and plastic trash. This is the hottest topic at the moment judging by the multiple talks and various exhibits showcasing the effects plastic trash has on the environment.

The fun spirit of the outdoors was carried by KEEN at the annual KEENFest party where exhibitors were treated with free beer, German culinary delicacies and a ride on the ferris wheel.

One thing is for sure, the outdoor industry is evolving to become m o r e r e l e v a n t t o t h e y o u n g e r c o n s u m e r.

KEY TRENDS _

GLOBAL WARMING AND PLASTIC

We live in the age of Anthropocene where human actions are negatively affecting and changing the climate. The connection between nature and humans is broken and the way to repair it is by taking actions to create new design and manufacturing processes where the environmental footprint comes first.

_

THE MAKERS

The Makers is a growing creative movement which goes back to the original techniques of craftsmanship. This trend is driven by the desire to own few but well made items that are timeless.

The product here is as important as the story behind the process of making it.

_

AGILE PERFORMANCE

Brands are continuing to push the boundaries on light weight performance through new fabrics and minimal trim techniques.

This year ON, Goldwin and Mammut are adding another factor P A T A G O N I A

to the equation, and this is versatility - not only in performance, but also in everyday use.

REPORT SECTIONS

M A M M U T

BRANDS

THEMES

PRODUCT

COLOR

Adidas, Byborre and True Color

The topics of global warming, ocean

Japanese inspired footwear and

Milky blues, beige and white

partner to create urban

plastic trash and clean water takes

apparel is becoming a source of

combos are driving newness

weather system using knits in

center stage in various talks and

newness in the outdoor industry.

on the floor. Keeping the

their natural color. Goldwin

brand initiatives. The new

The streetwear influence is

natural color of the material

launches an athletics collection

Borderlands area is becoming the

reflected in the chunky shoe soles

drives a pure, sustainable

for the gym, trail and city.

epicenter of young, hip and cool.

and voluminous maxi shapes.

message.

A D I D A S

T E R R E X

P A L E G R O

GOLD WINNERS

A D I D A S

T E C N I C A

NEW TECH

Palegro base layer combines merino wool and brown algae harvested from Icelandic fjords. Adidas Windweave jacket is designed for runs on

cooler summer days, hikes and climbing tours. Each area of the jacket is adapted to the different climate zones of the body. Tecnica trail running shoe allows for customizing the upper and the footbed through a 20 minute in-store thermoforming. The sock-like stretch material provides the foot with a lot of support while at the same time being permeable to water vapor. Various cushioning levels can be selected for the midsole. TPU reinforcements offer forefoot protection. Adidas Terrex 3L hiking jacket has a hybrid construction. Thanks to a water column of 10,000 mm and breathability of 10,000 g/m2/24h, the jacket is perfect for outdoor use.

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

THE ART OF PURE

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

BRAND HIGHLIGHT

We live in the age of Anthropocene where human actions are negatively affecting and changing the climate. The challenge for every brand is to adopt a responsible design process. Adidas, Byborre and True Color partner to create a weather system with the urban end consumer in mind.

The pieces are versatile and designed with smart functionalities of layering for comfort and different climates. What’s interesting about this collection is that the colors of the materials are kept pure using no dye which also created a rich layering of creamy white tonalities.

G O L D W I N

G O L D W I N

G O L D W I N

T H E N E W AT H L E T I C S Goldwin launches a brand new athletics collection which screams thoughtful minimalism.

G O L D W I N

BRAND HIGHLIGHT The collection explores the intersection of city,

gym and trail by incorporating sleek tech lightweight, breathable fabrics, bonded seams and versatile silhouettes appropriate for the city scape. The sophisticated color pallete makes the pieces seasonless and sit well with other items in your wardrobe.

BORDERLANDS

THEME

In cooperation with online media platform Vanish, The Borderlands exhibit hosts progressive urban outdoor brands with the likes of Adidas, Byborre, Arys, Ecco Lab, Topo Designs, and Pally Hi to name a few. The space aims to foster collaboration between art, technology, design and apparel. Topics explored were at the intersection of responsible design, culture, and urban outdoor clothing.

H A L W A Y

P L A N T S TA K E O V E R

U N I T E D

B Y

B L U E

A D I D A S

T E N T R E E

THEME

Plants take over the trade show bringing some of the outdoors inside. The flora displays at Adidas, United by Blue and Tentree remind us that the connection between humans and nature is severed due to the negative impact we cause on the environment. The quintessential question remains that we need to rethink our actions. Being outdoor is a two way street: we draw inspiration from it, but we also need to give back by respecting and preserving it.

A D I D A S

P S S B L

FROM TRASH TO CAďź„H

P A C

K E E N x S T E P H E N

H O R C H

THEME

Plastic trash is ubiquitous on the trade show floor. A lot of brands are turning recycled plastic into a raw material resource for apparel and shoes. Everyone is jumping on the recycled plastic bandwagon because it is the most readily available resource to claim a quick sustainability fix. While incorporating it into the product line is a good step forward, it is still a band-aid to a bigger problem. Let’s reduce the use of it because whether it is recycled or not, plastic is proven to be be harmful for the environment. KEEN partners with German artist & activist Stephen Horch who is paddling his kayak to clean rivers. The goal of the project is to raise public awareness by turning the trash into art.

P A T A G O N I A

GLOBAL WARMING

P I C T U R E

M A S T E R C L A S S

E X H I B I T

THEME

Global warming is one of the "verboten" subjects to discuss and stand for as an outdoor brand due to its political polarization. This subject needs less discussion and more action. Patagonia is supporting regenerative organic agriculture; they use only organic cotton because healthy soil traps the carbon which is a contributor to climate change.

R A C I N G

A T E L I E R

S T A Y

E X P O S E D

T H E C U LT U R E O F M A K E R S

E C C O

M A M M U T

THEME

There is a rising movement of creating and crafting using your own hands. This trend is driven by the desire to own few but well made, timeless items. The object here is as important as the story of making it. The Makers are turning to artisanal ways of production by using old techniques. Racing Atelier specializes in custom backpacks and sweats every detail providing a truly customized item. Back by popular demand, Ecco brings the leather lab to the show again where visitors can craft their own bag.

S N O W

S N O W

P E A K

P E A K

T E V A

JAPAN ES E IN S PIR E D

S N O W

P E A K

T E V A

THEME

Anything Japanese is in: from outdoor brands to wabi sabi philosophy, and Marie Kondo’s tidying techniques. What makes Japanese design so aspiring is the simplicity in form and unique point of view. In footwear, the inspiration is taken from the traditional Japanese sandals zori and geta. Teva’s new sandals are very closely resembling Suicoke footwear. In apparel, the peasant shirt brings new flair to outdoor.

P A T A G O N I A

M A M M U T

AGILE PERFORMANCE

O N

O N

THEME

Striving for lightness is everything when it comes to running. This year Mammut and ON bring one more component and this is versatility in performance. Mammut’s sleeveless cover-up adds a dose of freshness. ON apparel is all about minimal performance considering every single ounce of weight and choosing bonded seams and mesh fabrics. Patagonia’s jacket has a double zipper designed for easy access to a vest or a hydration pack. This kit is designed for the mountain running athlete.

S A O L A

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

N AT U R A L S H O E S

N A G L E V

M E R R E L L

THEME

Natural materials are making their way into footwear. Adidas and Byborre collaboration is presenting a unique combination of cork sole and knit upper. Naglev application of wool lining inside the shoe helps with warmth and sweat management. Bloom algae technology is adopted

by Saola and Merrell. While this material was initially harvested from overgrown algae in the water, it has proven to be toxic so now it is grown in farms to meet demand.

A N D

W A N D E R

A R Y S

G R I F F I N

MAX I PAR K A

S N O W

KEY ITEM

Fashion meets outdoor with the new updated maxi parka. Lightweight, transparent fabric with long slit zippers on both sides merge breathability and fashion together. With the And Wander jacket you can hit the streets and the trails without compromising function and fashion. Snow Peak's kimono-inspired maxi jacket is less structured and brings more coziness at the camp site than performance.

P E A K

J A C K

W O L F S K I N

M A M M U T

U P D AT E D P O N C H O

A D I D A S

KEY ITEM

The poncho gets a more structural shape update with the A line flair. It is a key piece in the new Shelter collection by Adidas where city maps make the silhouette street-appropriate. Jack Wolfskin hybridizes the poncho and parka silhouettes to bring a fresh lightweight summer look while Mammut is going for a cropped hooded version for mountain adventures.

O N

E C C O

MID SNIX HIKER

T H E

N O R T H

F A C E

E C C O

M A M M U T

A D I D A S

KEY ITEM

Mid hiker is the preferred summer silhouette. This style combines the functionality of the hiking shoe with the light weightiness and style of a sneaker. Adidas brings the Parley technology to a new woven shoe, while Mammut stands out with an above the knuckle knit woven sock.

Ecco Phorene merges functionality and design by hiding the laces with a neoprene zipped flap which also prevents wind and water to enter through the laces.

A D I D A S X B Y B O R R E

A R Y S

G O L D W I N

HIDDEN FUNCTIONALITY

DETAILS

Smart, useful features are incorporated in garment design. Goldwin and Arys have designed special pockets for iPads and computers in the jackets which eliminates the need for a backpack. Adidas and Byborre’s detachable sleeves are combining functionality and style by using metal zippers that evokes a bold style statement.

U N I T E D

R A C I N G

CLIMBING INSPIRED

A T E L I E R

R A C I N G

B Y

B L U E

A T E L I E R

B L A C K

D I A M O N D

DETAILS

Outdoor brands are aware of the proliferation of climbing inspired details on the runway. Climbing is one of the fastest growing sports among young people. The sports aspirations are translated into everyday footwear, backpack details and even smart iPhone holders.

SOLE BOOSTER

H O K A

K E E N

O N

E C C O

M E R R E L L

D Y N A

F I T

DETAIL

The ugly sneaker trend makes its way to the outdoor sector. The double sole trend has been adopted by ON and Hoka while Ecco and Dynafit are going with more stylized heel bulkiness. Voluminous shapes in apparel and footwear will continue to be relevant in the future.

K E E N

E C C O

FIT TO PERFORM

V I B R A M

TECHNOLOGY

Footwear fit customization continues to be a growing trend. ECCO outdoor introduces Prosoma heel guard which wraps the heel to provide protective support and locks it in when needed most. The X-Tensa technology which extends over the bridge of the foot for a secure fit, minimizes the play between foot and shoe to save more movement energy. KEEN’s Konnectfit is a heel-capture system for a locked-in feel.

LOGOMANIA The 90’s logomania is back on trend not just in apparel but in footwear as well. The rise of sportswear and streetwear brands has propelled the logo trend to catwalks and now mountain trails. Hoka gets creative by placing the wordmark on the sole of their shoes.

PRINTS

A D I D A S

M E R R E L L

SHOE ART

M E R R E L L

T E V A

M E R R E L L

O L U K A I

PRINTS

Footwear is getting a fresh makeover with all-over prints. The newness here is driven by Merrell's almost photo-real mountain print and by Olukai bringing more fun into the lining of their shoes with Hawaiian flowers. For a more urban-friendly sophisticated approach, consider using mĂŠlanges, smaller prints or pattern blocking.

S E N

A N D

W A N D E R

B I L L A B O N G

BLACK AND WHITE

A D I D A S

PRINTS

The classic black and white pairing takes a topographic twist in big open all-over patterns. Adidas Shelter collection designed for urban use is drawing inspirations from city maps while Billabong is going with an ocean waves take.

A D I D A S

A D I D A S

MILKY BLUES

G O L D W I N

F J A L R A V E N

COLOR

Blue is probably the best selling color in the outdoor sector. For SS20, blues are transitioning from core outdoor tones to more fashion forward shades of pastel milky and frosty blues.

O N

A D I D A S

WHITE AND BEIGE COMBO

A D I D A S

R A C I N G

A T E L I E R

COLOR

Creamy whites and beige tones are taking over the floor. The fresh story behind these combos has to do with the trend of keeping the materials #truecolor. The beauty of the purity of the raw material is translated to the end garment and it has a sustainable ethos of using less water and chemicals for dying.