2007 Germany, France and Belgium

Germany, France & Belgium March 27-April 12, 2007

Germany, France & Belgium

As a continuation of my seven-week birthday trip, we left London and flew to Stuttgart, Germany for a visit with Klaus and Dagmar Stark and an opportunity to become re-acquainted with my favorite German city. We traveled with them to Alsace for a couple of days, leaving them in Strasbourg and continuing by car to Belgium, Normandy, Brittany and Paris. Jake kept us on a busy schedule that left me breathless, but it was an extraordinary time, rich with the things we love to do and see.

1

Tuesday, March 27

Stuttgart - Gerlingen

The alarm woke us at 4:00 AM—Ugh! Were down to meet the Com Cab precisely at 5:00. Swift trip through London in twenty-five minutes, arriving at Heathrow Terminal around 5:30. Easy check-in but two security stations threw us. Had so much extra time through the first one we stopped for breakfast. The gate announcement was delayed and when we walked towards the gate, discovered that we had to once again remove shoes, jewelry and computer and go through the whole mess again. In the end I was missing my prescription glasses and Jake his pen. My mistakes are becoming costly.

Lovely flight to Stuttgart: an hour and a half and very smooth. Smiling Dagmar and Klaus were there to meet us and I gave them a big hug. It has been too long. Started our visit of Stuttgart by going up the TV tower—about 200 meters high—for a view of the valley. Unfortunately, too hazy to see the mountains. After a drive through town where they pointed out various sights and changes since I was last here, came home to Teuremertalweg 19 above Gerlingen for a delicious lunch of vegetable Maultaschen and a creamy broccoli soup. After Espresso in their little garden, they drove us to the village of Gerlingen and showed us their new flat where they hope to move in a couple of months. We walked to the little church where Schiller’s father is buried and marveled at the accompanying cemetery where each grave was alive with beautiful flower gardens. We could see several people tending them. I found the love and attention shown to each to be very moving. We walked through the streets, impressed with the lovely blending of the old half-timbered houses with the sleek new public buildings. Stopped at a couple of shops: at one, Dagmar bought me a sweet painted metal heart, and at second, everyone waited while I purchased a cheap replacement for my lost glasses. Klaus drove us to the rococo dome of Schloss Solitude overlooking Stuttgart where we enjoyed coffee amidst the soft neighing of horses from the nearby stables. As it was nearing 5:30, we returned home so that Dagmar could start her main course of pork Kesslar for the potluck dinner that evening. We went to our room for a rest and change of clothes. At 7:00, about twenty guests arrived, including German friends I remembered from twenty years ago and three American wives from Dagmar’s lunch bunch. I was especially delighted to see Christina and Fred Beerbaum who gave me an impressive little book on the new Stuttgart architecture, most of which was built after 2002.

3

4

5

7

8

9

Wednesday, March 28

Stuttgart

Slept really well after such a long day, in spite of fighting with the German style of bed-making—attractive, but involving a folding of the comforters that we could not figure out in the darkness. Wonderful breakfast at the Stark table: German bread as good as I remembered, cheeses, fresh Cape berries from South Africa, strong coffee. Then to the MercedesBenz Museum, a fabulous place, both architecturally and thematically, that tells the story of the history of mobility from the horse onwards. A spiraling floor takes the visitor from the top down through the ages, with dazzling examples from the Mercedes line to illustrate each historical era. An excellent audio guide assisted as well. Had to hurry to make our lunch reservations at a window table at the new (2004) Kunstmuseum’s Cube restaurant, a glass box with an amazing view of Stuttgart. Sweet potato soup and delicious pasta as we gazed out over the old and the new. After lunch, Dagmar and I ducked into a bookstore while the men went to find me a flash drive for my computer. Met up and walked though a city I did not recognize. Since Stuttgart hosted the World Cup in soccer, the amount of building has been staggering and the Starks showed us a good part of it. Found a green man on a capital in the courtyard of the old Staatshalle.

Continued through the opulent Market Hall and down to Breuninger, my favorite department store—amazing—full of every designer imaginable. Home to change for the theater. Klaus drove us across town to the new Music Center to see Mama Mia in German. The center is massive, with hotels, two huge theaters and countless shops, bars and restaurants.

Lots of people there, even on a weeknight. The show was fun and the music by 70s Swedish rock group ABBA was terrific but it was frustrating not being able to understand the dialogue, especially when the audience laughed. Noted that some gestures (crotch grabbing, allusions to pubic hair, etc.) that appeared vulgar to our American eyes seemed just funny to the audience that was made up of a large percentage of kids. Leftovers back at the house and great conversation about the different approaches to important ethical issues in our two countries. Also discussed the merits of German engineering, be it in automobiles, appliances or plumbing.

10

12

13

14

Thursday, March 29

Stuttgart - Maulbronn

Woke up to a light rain; fortunately, it cleared up as we arrived in Maulbronn to see the Cistercian monastery there.

Audio guides were a help as we wandered through the church, cloisters and monks’ quarters. Delighted to find again the “Elfinger” column in the refectory. I remembered from long ago the story of the monk who said he needed eleven fingers to dip into the trough in the column in order to taste the wine that dripped there. The boys and Houston and I spent a lovely day at Maulbronn 25 years ago. It was also the place where Maultaschen was invented by the monks as a way to sneak forbidden meat into their diets. After our tour we had lunch at a nearby hotel. Dagmar and I had Maultaschen to carry out the theme of the day; Jake had tripe. We looked at the little shops later and Jake and I bought a print by local artist Simon Dittrich. Had to find a bank to get cash and after a walk, found a Starkasse, which we thought at first was a supermarket. Our negotiations delayed us so that we were only able to see the exterior of the newly renovated Ludwigsburg Castle on our way home. The whole town of Ludwigsburg was very impressive; much new construction and rehab work was evident everywhere. Home in a hailstorm to get ready for the Stuttgart Opera—voted the outstanding opera in all of Germany. We saw Strauss's Elektra—really heavy, but incredibly powerful voices of the lead singers—a modern interpretation of the classic Greek tragedy. The hall was beautiful and Klaus got us perfect seats in the center front. Another late dinner at home, prepared by Dagmar. Wine, cheeses, German bread and fresh spargel (asparagus). Packed up in preparation for our departure to France tomorrow.

16

18

Friday, March 30

Murbach - Colmar

A later start from Stuttgart than we hoped, as Klaus had a mishap with another car in the parking lot while getting brotchen for breakfast. He handled the problem and we set out for Colmar at 10:30, starting out on the autobahn to Freiburg. Noted the church with its twin towers and the canal that ran through the town. As we drove along the Alsace Route de Vins, I noticed that the houses were all painted different colors; I did not remember that when we lived here before. Dagmar confirmed that this was something new. I really liked the effect; the colorful walls seemed to give the villages a new life. Stopped at Murbach Abbey, an 8th century church nestled in a remote wooded valley. We walked up to what was once a large complex but is now only a chancel and transept surmounted by two towers. I read that the dog we noticed decorating the coat of arms over the gateway is the basis for the phrase, "As proud as the Murbach hound."

Continued along the wine route to Colmar, arriving at around 3:00. Had a lot of trouble locating the hotel, the enchanting La Maison des Tetes, on a narrow street of the same name. We checked in and were delighted with our room, which was in the old section with gargoyles surrounding our windows. While Klaus and Dagmar went for a walk, Jake and I went to the Musée d’ Unterlinden. What a fabulous place; the 16th century Issenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünwald, set up in the chapel, was the piece de resistance, but the entire medieval art collection was lovely. We enjoyed Durer engravings as well as a special exhibit of engravings by Martin Schongauer. I particularly liked the display of household artifacts, such as carved wooden molds, pottery and ironware, any of which I would have liked to add to my collections at home. We left the museum at closing and took a walk around the city, photographing the half-timbered buildings and looking into the interesting shops. I enjoyed the antique shops and we bought two books at a store specializing in the works of Colmar artist Hansi. At 7:30 we met the Starks for dinner at Chez Hansi, a cozy restaurant serving local specialties and Alsatian wines, with art by Hansi displayed on the walls. A magical walk back to our hotel, as we passed illuminated buildings, and church bells chimed along the way.

20

21

22

23

Saturday, March 31 Route de Vins - Strasbourg

Awoke to a cold rain. Breakfast at the hotel---sausages, fresh yoghurt, fruit and bread. Away by 9:30 on the Route de Vins to Riquewihr. Walked through the old gate and up the quaint cobbled street, photographing colorful halftimbered buildings and imaginative iron signs. Visited the Hansi Museum; especially enjoyed the old framed prints that covered the walls—wished we could walk away with one. Drove through Ribeauville, where we saw storks in their huge nests perched atop the towers at the entrance to town. At Selestat we visited the Eglise Ste. Foy, a 12th century Romanesque church. So penetratingly cold inside it was hard to enjoy it. Warmed up with tea and a cheese tart at a nearby patisserie. At Andlau we were delighted with the doorway of the Eglise St. Pierre et St. Paul: whimsical carvings of figures entwined in a leafy vine and a delightfully primitive Adam and Eve. Had trouble finding a way inside but were successful; again froze. In the crypt, found the carved Romanesque bear that guards the site of the original church.

Rosheim had another Romanesque church dedicated to St. Pierre and St. Paul; photographed a column with an intriguing ring of carved heads. Warmed up with coffee at another patisserie, and watched as people paraded by the window dressed in rabbit costumes for a parade to raise money for the children of Chernobyl. Onto the autobahn for the last 30 kilometers into Strasbourg. Checked into the Beaucour Hotel and Jake and I quickly went to the cathedral before it closed. Dizzying façade covered with gothic carvings. Photographed the four foolish virgins and other features. Inside, saw the astrological clock, ancient stained glass and a green man. Not our favorite cathedral, however. Stopped for a glass of wine at a small weinstube before going back to the room to change. Met Dagmar and Klaus at 7:30 and walked to Chez Yvonne, a cozy and informal Alsatian restaurant on a narrow street behind the cathedral. Had a neat corner wooden booth. Celebrated our time together and our special friendship with local specialties and Alsatian wine, as we are setting off on our own in the morning.

24

25

26

27

28

Sunday, April 1

Marmoutier - Verdun

What a long day! Up at 7:00; met Klaus and Dagmar for breakfast at the hotel. Self-service array of cheeses, meats, fruits and breads. They drove us to the Strasbourg airport where we said our goodbyes and collected our rental car from National, a Citroen C5—quite large and comfortable. Unfortunately, did not get on the road until 10:30 as we had a full day ahead of us. First went to Marmoutier to see the Romanesque abbey—its façade had several wonderfully whimsical carvings, including a group of six men who might have been acrobats, and who all had rather befuddled expressions on their faces. There was a large group of Japanese tourists who stood in awe beneath the front and took photos and talked to each other while gazing upwards. We stepped inside briefly but there was a Palm Sunday service going on which we did not want to disturb. Besides, the best part of the church was outside. We got on the A4 auto route to Verdun, where we drove through the battlefields, noting that, in spite of the peaceful green and young trees, the ground remained pockmarked, ninety years after that terrible battle. During the months between February 21, 1916 and August 20, 1917, almost a million young men—French, German and American—lost their lives in that place. We visited the Ossuaire de Douaumont, erected to receive the remains of more than 130,000 unknown soldiers. The structure, resembling a giant artillery shell, stands above a field of 15,000 white crosses. Also walked up to Fort Douaumont, a heavily fortified 19th century fortress of strategic importance.

29

30

31

Reims - Laon

We returned to the A4 to Reims, an ancient university town on the River Vesle, famous for its magnificent cathedral.

We started our visit by going though the Palais du Tau, the archbishops’ palace containing the cathedral treasury and some of its original statues. Among the treasures we saw was the reliquary of St. Ursula, a tiny sailboat of gold and jewels; a delightful carving of Adam and Eve, her mouth full of apple; and a room full of grotesque masks and gargoyles. By the time we got to the cathedral, the sun was setting on the west front, bringing its more than 2,000 statues to life. We particularly noticed the famous smiling angel. Inside, three stories are supported by capitals with floral motifs. The glass, particularly in the apse, is beautiful. I was reminded of my mother in law, Edith Hanes, who was an army nurse during WWII and served in Reims. She was one of those responsible for sandbagging the cathedral in order to preserve its glorious windows. As it was nearing 6:00, we had to hurry on to our next stop, the cathedral at Laon. Situated high up on a hill, the cathedral was visible far off in the distance as we exited the auto route and drove up to the town. The interior of Laon is even loftier than at Reims, its nave having four tiers. We were practically the only ones there and I found it very moving to walk among those ancient stones, some smooth as glass from years of worshippers—and tourists— touching them. Outside, we photographed the fanciful oxen that decorated the towers, recalling the legend of the ox, which miraculously appeared to help a struggling team of oxen working on repairs to the cathedral. We did not stay long, as we had to get to Tournai and our hotel, the Alcantara. We missed an interchange on the way and had to backtrack for ten kilometers, not arriving in town until nearly 10:00. I was lucky to figure out where the hotel was, and the night deskman opened the garage for us and showed us to our room. Late as it was, we walked around the corner and found a brasserie that was still open for dinner, where we had a light supper and a couple of Trappist beers. Then back to the room where we fell into bed at nearly one o’clock. Hopefully, Jake’s schedule will be kinder tomorrow!

32

33

34

Monday, April 2

Tournai

We did, in fact, sleep in a little late and awoke to a crisp, clear day. Spent the morning exploring Tournai. We walked through the Grand Plaza to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, a UNESCO World Heritage site and described in Michelin as “the most striking and unusual of Belgium’s great churches.” What we found was a church under massive restoration: the nave was being excavated, the transept arches were being reinforced and scaffolding was everywhere. In the midst of all this, the staff was trying to set up for Holy Week services, placing plastic chairs in rows and moving in propane-fueled heaters so that the congregants did not freeze in the chill air. Outside, a giant crane was moving materials and we again saw massive amounts of scaffolding and excavating. I can’t imagine what the cost of all this could be, or how long it will take to complete. We walked past the belfry as we made our way across the plaza and back to the hotel, checking out at about 11:00.

35

36

Ghent - Bruges

Back on the auto route, we drove to Ghent, a large and attractive university city. Due to the recent installation of a mobility plan, virtually all cars have been banned from the city center, so we found a parking garage and walked to the central area where the streets were cobbled and silent streetcars became the predominant form of motorized transportation. Most people, however, were on bikes or on foot. We walked past St. Nicholas Church to the Cathedral of St. Baaf Not one of our favorite cathedrals, the interior seems a clash of styles: the gothic elements are disrupted by the presence of a huge neo-Classical marble choir screen. We were not there to see the church anyway, for the main reason for our coming to Ghent was to see the masterpiece by Van Eyck, Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a polyptych altarpiece that depicts no less than 248 characters on a series of panels. The detail in the work is incredible: in the section that shows the lamb on an altar in a garden, botanists have identified 42 different plants. We listened to an audio tour for a half hour as we gazed at that beautiful work. Although it was not in its proper place at the altar, I found it affecting that it was still in the cathedral and had not been relegated to a museum. We walked along the canal and stopped in briefly to see St. Nicholas, a Romanesque parish church, and continued down the Corn Market area before retracing our steps to the parking garage and continuing on the 50 miles or so to Bruges. Had no problem finding the attractive Pond Hotel.

Were pleased with our small but beautifully appointed room, blooming with French toile fabrics.

37

A beautiful afternoon in Ghent and everyone was out enjoying the sun. Having few cars in town really makes a difference.

Our purpo s to see Van e in stopping here w Adoration Eyck's masterpiece, as of the My stic Lamb .

38

We immediately set out to walk this fairy tale village, its houses of time-worn brick reflecting in still, dark canal waters. We wanted to take pictures of the majestic buildings that reflected the afternoon sun; we planned to return in the morning to take advantage of the eastern light. The whole town was alive with people out enjoying the perfect afternoon—boats were filled with tourists, motoring through the canals, horse carriages flew along the cobbled streets, bikes and more bikes were everywhere, and everyone else on foot. I was intrigued at the shops displaying lace, chocolates and other local goods.

39

As the Bib where we hoped to have dinner was closed Mondays, we decided to have an early dinner at Cambrinus, a “Bierbrasserie” boasting over 400 beer choices. I took a picture of Jake going through the brew list that resembled a telephone book. We had the Brewer’s Meal that included beer flavored cheese croquettes, a beer-infused stew with applesauce and a beer flavored crème brule. I had a sweet cherry beer and Jake, a very acid local Geuze. A lovely moonlit walk back to the hotel.

40

42

Tuesday, April 3

Bruges

Woke up late and it sure felt good. In spite of overcast skies, we started the day with a boat ride around Bruges’ canals. It was a lovely way to experience the unique atmosphere of the town, but it was so cold that I think I had a smile frozen in place. The good part about the weather was that we almost had the boat to ourselves and thus were freer to move about to take pictures of the old brick buildings with their stepped roofs, the low bridges and the dark waters with graceful swans gliding past us. Afterwards we warmed up with soup and coffee at a nearby café. On to the Groeningemuseum to see the Flemish Primitives and works by Van Eyck, Van der Goes, Memling and Bosch. It was stunning to see so many wonderful paintings together in one place. I loved being able to get close enough to study the delicate brush strokes that created almost photographically rendered fabrics, metals and facial veins and wrinkles.

In the museum shop afterwards we agonized about which book to buy and solved the problem by buying two. Continuing to the Arentshuis, we enjoyed a special exhibit of 80 woodcuts and engravings by Durer. On our way to the Memling Museum we briefly entered the Onze-Lieve-Viouwekerk where we saw Michelangelo’s white marble Madonna and Child. The museum is housed in the 12th century St. Jans Hospital. The old wards for invalids had been restored and turned into galleries that housed not only six works

by Memling but other religious panels, many of which were placed in the wards to offer inspiration and encouragement to the ailing.

After the museums, we did some shopping and exploring down the busy narrow streets of Bruges. One great discovery was Delvaux, an elegant Belgian leather goods and accessories store that first opened in 1827, where I bought a beautiful scarf and a small jewelry pouch. Then, after admiring the bags in the windows, Jake took me back in and bought a beautiful handbag for me for my birthday.

It is of a classic style that has been in production since 1958. I was thrilled. We also stopped to buy some chocolates at Galler, holder of the Belgian Royal Warrant. It came in an attractive tin that may have been at least part of the impetus for our purchase. At a shop full of colorful wooden toys, I bought three jumping animals for my little ones. Walking back to the hotel we noticed how prolific— and how aggressive—the bike riders were. One really has to be careful not to veer or make a sudden move for fear of being clobbered from behind. We came back to the room to drop off our treasures and sample the chocolates. I took advantage of the break to check our email messages on the lobby computer. It was quite a challenge using a Flemish keyboard: the W and the Z had exchanged places, the A and S were somewhere else completely and one had to hit the Cap key to use a period. Later we set out to find a place for dinner. We decided on Breylel DeConinc, specializing in seafood. While I enjoyed fresh seasonal asparagus served with smoked salmon and potatoes in a buttery sauce, Jake had eel that he said was great; I am sure it was. We decided to forego dessert and have hot drinks and brandy in the attractive bar at the hotel. I tried a peach flavored tea from the Het Brugsch Thee Huis, which was fabulous; I hope we have time to get some on the way out tomorrow.

43

45

Wednesday, April 4 Amiens - Rouen - Jumieges Got up early and had breakfast at Tom Ponce, a café on the Burg. A clear and cold morning makes such a difference in photographs so we re-took several pictures from our cloudy day before. Found a market set up in the square and enjoyed seeing the wonderful foods for sale, from cheeses to roasted meats to fruits—and beautiful flowers in the middle of it all. We got such a late start that I was able to run back to the Thee Huis and get that peach tea I liked so much. Then to Amiens, the capital of Picardy, where we visited the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the largest gothic cathedral in France. The 1442 organ was being tuned while we were there, giving us a sense of what it must sound like at full amplitude. Unfortunately, the three-starred choir stalls were roped off so that we could only see them from a distance. An interesting labyrinth had been reinstalled on the floor of the nave sometime during the 19th century.

Apparently, the penitents would follow the lines on their knees. Today, I saw several people slowly walking the lines to the center.

Over one of the tombs at the back of the main altar, I found a most interesting green man with a large leaf emerging from his mouth.

We continued west to Rouen, the capital of upper Normandy, where we visited its Cathedral of Notre Dame, made famous by Monet in his series of paintings at various times of day. When we were there, the west front was ablaze with the afternoon light. Inside, I was particularly struck by the different textures of the pillars and walls, as time and repairs had created interesting mottled effects and given those surfaces a depth that reflected the ages. Leaving the cathedral, we walked down the bustling Rue du Gros-Horloge to the great clock, placed there in 1527 and the most popular monument in Rouen. We circled back to the car, which Jake had to practically surgically extract from its miniscule spot, and drove further west to the Abbey at Jumieges, one of the most impressive ruins in France. It occupies a splendid spot on the Lower Seine and evoked thoughts of times past with its roofless walls and windowless arches, open to the sky. Large flocks of birds circled overhead and flowers pushed up between the cracks of the once great stones. It was magical to imagine the day when the abbey was consecrated in 1067 in the presence of William the Conqueror and to think that this silent place once echoed with the chanting voices of monks. The afternoon was brilliant and the sun reflecting off those bleached stones created a memorable and haunting scene. We pulled ourselves away as it was nearing 6:00 and we had to reach Honfleur for the night. We drove along the banks of the Seine, passing typical Norman rural houses with their half-timbered frames and low thatched roofs. We arrived in Honfleur in a brisk wind, and noticed that everyone seemed to be walking around with winter jackets and clenched teeth. We checked into a darling hotel, Les Maisons de Lea, in the heart of old Honfleur that was once an old salt warehouse and three 16th century houses. Our room was delightful, having a poster bed, country pine furniture and French fabrics. It was really too late to do any exploring in the town, so we set out instead to find a place for dinner. After checking on a couple of Michelin recommended places that were closed or filled (“complete”) we chose a Bib, Terre et Mer. Although we felt that we had gotten good value, we were disappointed with the meal. The service was painfully slow as well; we were there more than 2 ! hours, awfully late on top of such a full day.

46

47

48

50

Thursday, April 5

Honfleur

After a buffet breakfast in the hotel we went for a walk around Honfleur. Took some great pictures from St. Catherine’s Quay of the Vieux Bassin, capturing the reflection of the colorful elongated buildings in the still water. Honfleur is an artist’s colony and this was evident in the shops that lined the narrow streets, offering paintings, jewelry and ceramics all by local artisans. We stepped into St. Catherine’s church, across from our hotel. Constructed entirely of wood, it reminded us of the stave churches of Norway. On our way back to the hotel we stopped to buy the local apple cider to enjoy later. We left Honfleur a little after 11:00; I was hoping to visit an antique shop that opened at that time but when it was still closed at 11:05, we figured that we might as well go on, as there was no telling when—or if—the owner would decide to show up. We took D513 through the resort town of Deauville along the coast, noting its numerous casinos and large condos. I read that it hosts the American Film Festival and thus brings in Hollywood types and the star-struck alike.

51

52

54

We arrived in Caen, the capital of Basse-Normandy just after noon and visited the twin Abbaye-aux-Dames and Abbaye-aux-Hommes, founded by Duke William and his penitent bride Matilda in the 11th century. Both abbey churches were built in the Romanesque style but we found both to be disappointing, as there were few authentic sculptures or other points of particular interest.

55

Bayeux

We continued to Bayeux, an attractive town of 15,000 in order to see the famous tapestry, or more accurately, embroidery. Over 1000 years old, the tapestry is displayed in the Centre Guillaume le Conquerant, an 18th century building that was once a seminary. Before we were admitted into a room especially designed to display the 203 foot long piece, we saw an exhibit about the Vikings and viewed an excellent film. An audio guide explained the piece as we went along and also served to keep people moving. I was thrilled. It is hard to imagine that something 1000 years old could be in such remarkable shape or retain such resonance with the modern viewer. The story of the Battle of Hastings and William the Conqueror, told with a needle, was absolutely riveting. I also enjoyed seeing the unique stitching combination used on the tapestry; it made me want to try it for myself, although I cannot imagine what we would do with a sample Bayeux Tapestry in our home. Before we left town, we stopped briefly at the Norman Gothic Cathedral of Notre Dame; just long enough for me to find another green man. Not having reservations for the night, we called the Ferme de la Raconniere in nearby Crepon and were delighted that there was a room available for us. A medieval fortified farmhouse, the hotel consisted of stone buildings built around a square. We were given a junior suite with a massive beamed ceiling and were delighted with the room’s quirky charm. We cracked open the cider but I was very disappointed with its strange aftertaste and Jake had to accommodate me by drinking my share. Later, we enjoyed a lovely dinner as part of our ! pension plan—duck, fish and local cheeses and wine.

56

58

59

Friday, April 6

Lessay - Coutances

Three crows from a cock woke me from a sound sleep; I looked out of our window to find ground fog covering what was forecast to be a clear day. After a breakfast buffet—quite lively due to a German tour group that had assembled just as we sat down—we retraced the way to Bayeux and then continued through St. Lo to Lessay. Jake thought that perhaps we might skip this stop but I encouraged him to go. We were both glad we did when we arrived in that small town and found the Romanesque abbey church. There was no one else there; we felt the wonder that we had experienced on our earlier trips when we would discover a church in some remote place and have it all to ourselves, reveling in the evocative dimness and silence that was ours alone. We found some wonderful carvings on the capitals and I even found two primitive green men sharing one of them. We drove on to Coutances, a town of almost 10,000, and visited the Cathedral, a Michelin 3-star site. Its outstanding feature is its 135-foot high lantern tower over the crossing. We took some beautiful exterior pictures of the apse and flying buttresses, as the sun was just right.

60

61

Mont St. Michel Our final visit of the day was one of the most important of our whole trip: Mont Saint Michel. The abbey’s origin goes back to the early 8th century, when the Archangel Michael appeared to the Bishop of Avranches, who then founded an oratory on the mountainisland. It continued to grow and expand until the 16th century. We found something mysterious about the abbey, with its dark halls, massive walls, and cloisters seemingly looking out over heaven. We were delighted to find that we had picked the perfect time to visit, for in spite of Mont Saint Michel being one of the biggest tourist attractions in France, we encountered no waiting and in fact, had many rooms to ourselves for several minutes before anyone else entered. That, coupled with a cloudless sky, made for some excellent pictures. Our ascent to the abbey church began with a steep walk up a narrow cobblestone road lined with souvenir stands selling postcards and locally made biscuits in colorful tins. Those stands were probably more similar to the ones of centuries past than one might imagine. We then had to walk up several long flights of steps that took us 260 feet above sea level to the church. As we emerged, we saw a service in remembrance of Good Friday in the lower garden. Folk singers with guitars stood beside nuns and priests in their white gowns. There were a lot of people around, but not so many as to cause any delays. I noted a lot of baby buggies, kids’ bikes and large dogs being hauled or pushed around and thought of the problems that those might cause in the summer crowds.

We left at about 4:30, driving past the salt marshes and tidal flats that encircle the mount and paused to take pictures of the abbey in that context. Our hotel for the night was in the seaside resort of Cancale, at Les Rimains, a 1930s stone fisherman’s cottage that is part of Les Maisons de Bricourt. We had one of the four rooms in the cottage, overlooking the oyster beds in the Baie du Mont St. Michel. It was so fresh and bright that I gasped with pleasure when we opened the door. We took a walk out behind the cottage, down the ridge towards the beach, on the Custom Officer’s Path, taking pictures of the small islands that jutted into the bay and of the fishing boats below. As the brochure in our room described our surroundings: Un art de vivre dans la baie du Mont Saint-Michel, entre ciel et mer. At 7:40, a driver picked us up and drove us to La Maison du Voyageur, the Michelin 3-starred restaurant associated with Les Maisons de Bricourt. Oliver Roellinger, the chef, opened his restaurant in his family “malouiniere” (holiday home) that was built in 1760. We spent three hours enjoying the most wonderful meal I have ever had. After the ten courses, which delicately explored the textures and flavors of eastern spices, I felt as if I had experienced a rare world of flavors. I did not feel stuffed; instead, I had only a feeling of well being after such an experience. The maitre d’ arranged for the accompanying shop to be opened for us and we bought a special oyster knife designed by the chef that came with its own pouch made of old sail material. Jake asked about it and was given the address of the manufacturer in St. Malo. We also left with an apron and a bottle of local fleur de sel. After our coffee and an abundance of little sweets, the driver brought us back to the cottage, where we went to bed with the distant sounds of the water below to lull us to sleep.

63

65

66

67

Saturday, April 7

St. Malo

I awoke at 6:00 and looked out the window to see the full moon shining down on shimmering oyster beds. An attempt to take a photo was not successful so the sight will have to live in my mind. Went back to sleep for another hour; we were served a breakfast of home made pastries and fresh fruit in our room. We ate gazing out over the bay. Departing Cancale on the Emerald Coast highway D 201, we drove to St. Malo, badly damaged in WWII but beautifully restored since. We spent an hour or so walking the ramparts (which date from the 13th and 14th centuries) and enjoying views of the busy harbor. Sailboats and fishing boats shared the water with numerous ferries of varying sizes, carrying passengers and vehicles back and forth to England. We also went on an expedition to find the sail maker’s shop and were pleased with ourselves that we did. The Vent de Voyage had a selection of bags and pouches made of old sail materials, which made them not only fun but also very durable. We bought several for ourselves and for gifts. Leaving St. Malo, I succeeded in allowing us to miss a turn-off, resulting in an extra hour to reach the Gulf of Morbihan, an inland sea dotted with islands that offers some of the most original landscapes in Brittany.

68

70

Carnac - Locmariaquer

We drove to “megalith country,” the area near Carnac, where several thousand great stones from the Neolithic era cover the landscape. We stopped at two sites, Kermario and Menec, and tried to take pictures, but found it difficult to capture a sense of the arrangement of the stones. I had the best luck from a lookout tower where I was able to get enough distance to show the stones in their mysterious rows. We also saw the Tumulus St. Michel, a prehistoric tomb 40 feet high that covers several burial chambers. From there, we continued to Locmariaquer. We found a simple seaside restaurant, L’Escale, down at the water and Jake ordered his dozen local oysters and a glass of Muscadet. I took his picture as he dug in, but did not join him. Instead I had a galette, a crispy crepe that was filled with Coquilles St. Jacques—much more to my liking. I was starting to get concerned that we had no reservations for the night but Jake found a small red-peak hotel in Michelin and called them. Fortunately, they had a room available. It took a half-hour to reach the Manoir de Bodrevan, located just outside the village of Noyal-Muzillac and 30 kilometers west of Vannes. Once a 16th century hunting lodge, the Manoir is now owned by a young couple who has created six guestrooms. It has a wooded setting, surrounded by blooming trees and plants. We found two little boys running about, as well as an old cat.

Took a short walk around the garden and looked out across the rolling green fields of that idyllic area of Brittany. Then a short rest before dinner at 8:00, prepared by our host, whose father, Jacques Le Divellec, has a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. The menu consisted of a crab salad, whole turbot with spinach and tiny potatoes and homemade ice cream with strawberry sauce. As we climbed the steps to our room afterwards, Jake noticed how bright—and numerous —the stars were. In our light-polluted Chicago, we had almost forgotten how impressive the night sky could be.

71

72

Sunday, April 8

Angers

When we walked down the outside stairs from our room this morning, I felt as if I were descending into an enchanted forest: birds were singing in the surrounding trees, hawks were crowing and I could hear the faint sound of cows mooing in the distance. It was a beautiful Easter Sunday. We had flakey pastries and homemade comfitures waiting for us, but wished we had something more substantial to carry us through the day, especially for 12 Euros. Did a little organizing in the car before we departed, in anticipation of our return to Paris; our new sail bags worked perfectly. Left for Angers (An-GARE) at around 9:45. Passed a restaurant purporting to be a “creperie and a saladrie”; and of course, boulangerie and patisserie are ubiquitous in France — this reminded us that yesterday we saw a sandwicherie. Angers is an attractive city of over 200,000. We located the chateau, a distinctive-looking fortress built in the early 13th century of dark schist alternating with white stone. Where there once were moats are now formal gardens and on this bright spring day, everything was blooming. Although we did tour the buildings, our primary purpose in visiting was to see the Apocalypse Tapestry, housed in its own new building within the complex. Commissioned by Duke Louis I of Anjou in 1373, it is over 400 feet long and 600 years old and is the largest and oldest surviving tapestry in the western world. Its scope is breathtaking. When I walked into the massive hall where the work is displayed, I was blown away. The 76 panels follow the text of the Book of Revelation. I delighted in the details; for example, I found a little animal entering a burrow with only is backside visible; a few meters away is a rabbit exiting the burrow, only his head showing. I was captivated by the expressions on the faces of the characters, their body language that wordlessly spoke volumes, and the depiction of the destruction of Babylon and of the creation of a New Jerusalem. Of course, we bought a book in the shop afterwards.

73

74

75

76

Fontevraud Abbey - Cunault

Leaving Angers, we followed the Loire River east, enjoying lovely views of the valley. As if to herald Easter, the trees were really beginning to green. We stopped to tour Fontevraud Abbey, founded in 1101 and the largest group of monastic buildings in France. We began by driving to the south to see the view of the complex from a rise and then spent a pleasant hour our so walking the grounds and seeing the abbey, the cloisters, the kitchen, and other buildings.

The complex is in the midst of a major restoration and, although everything looked fresh and white, it was not the kind of place that we particularly love. More to our liking was the Romanesque church at Cunault, founded in 847 by monks who were fleeing the Normans. There we found wonderfully whimsical capitals carved with images of saints and monsters—one was even devouring the column upon which he was perched! On the walls were the remains of 13th century frescos; the fact that they were faded only added to their beauty. We drove back on the other side of the Loire toward Chinon where we hoped to find a room for the night. On the way, I imposed on Jake to drop me off at a flea market, held on the banks of the river in the town of Montsoreau. I was almost too late, as people were beginning to pack things up, but I did manage to find a treasure: a little set of brass weights in a wooden case. On the road again, we came to Candes-St. Martin and became ensconced in a traffic jam of sorts, as cars tried to get through on a particularly narrow patch of road. Patience wore thin in some cases, but by folding in side mirrors and driving up over the curb, the cars inched past each other and everyone was soon on their way. We did not get to Chinon until 7:30 and were nervous about finding a suitable hotel, and considered ourselves fortunate that we got the last room at Diderot, a Michelin Bib hotel (designated as such for being a good room at a good price). Though simple, the room was clean and bright and all we needed. It felt great to save a little money too. Did not waste any time going to dinner and had a wonderful meal at L’Oceanic, a Michelin-rated seafood restaurant. We both had Coquille St. Jacques as this is scallop season and we are in scallop country. We walked the empty streets of Chinon back to the hotel and I felt a little pensive, thinking that this was our last night outside of Paris and that our trip was almost over.

77

78

79

Monday, April 9

Bourges - St. Benoit

Checking out of our hotel this morning, we said that we were going to Paris and the woman warned us that, as this was a long holiday weekend, all of Paris would be heading home this evening. Not knowing that today was a holiday, we realized just how lucky we were in getting the last room. The day could not have been nicer, for in addition to a cloudless sky, it was warmer that it has been. Perhaps spring is really here. Negotiated a fair amount of traffic around Tours on our way to Bourges. Jake wanted me to see another of the great 13th century cathedrals in the Iles de France that created the gothic style. The others that I have seen are Notre Dame in Paris, Chartres, Amiens, Reims, and Laon. We hope to see St.-Denis while we are in Paris and then I would have completed the list. I found Bourges Cathedral to be one of the most beautiful we have visited. It had an extraordinarily high nave and high side aisles, and had no transepts. This gave a feeling of openness and lovely light. It was a church where I felt comfortable in contrast to some of the dark and crumbling gothic cathedrals we have seen. On the way out of town, we stopped briefly at the 16th century house of Jacques Coeur and took pictures of the amazing exterior, decorated in a domestic gothic style with St. Jacques shells and hearts alternating across the front and representational faces lining the lower walls. From Bourges, we drove north towards Montargis, passing flowering apple orchards and yellow fields of rape. Entering the small town of Cerdon, we passed another antique market, this one much larger than the one yesterday and I prevailed upon Jake to stop. We spent a half hour or so following the stalls along the streets and curving away down walkways. It was such fun to be doing this again; it brought back wonderful memories of antiquing with Sharon Connor or Shahin while we were in Germany. It is not only the luck of the find that I enjoy, it is the connection with the people: the opportunity to see their wares and watch them bargain or visit with each other—and then, of course, there is the discovery of a treasure to be bought that will remind me of that day. I found a delightful little tin advertising Suze, the horrid-tasting French aperitif with the name that Jake calls me, as well as a ceramic comfiture jar from Paris. We continued towards Orleans to St. Benoit-surLoire. There we visited its basilica, completed in 1218 and one of the most famous Romanesque buildings in France. With its white stonework and high vaulting, the interior was light and it was easy to see the wonderful carvings on the capitals. The crypt was especially evocative, its low, massive pillars encircling the relics of St. Benedict, venerated here since the 8th century. But the true jewel of the church was the belfry porch, its richly carved capitals made of golden Nevers stone. Scenes from the Apocalypse and events of the life of Christ alternated with stylized plants and fantastic animals. It was only a short distance to Germigny-des-Pres and a little church from the Carolingian era—one of the oldest in France. Surrounded by tulip trees and flowering shrubs, its golden wall glowing in the afternoon sun, the church might have been in Tuscany. Unfortunately the east apse was the only original remnant (other parts were added in the 15th century), but on its ceiling was a remarkable mosaic depicting the Ark of the Covenant surmounted by angels. The work was discovered under a thick layer of whitewash in 1840 when some archeologists saw children playing with cubes of colored glass, which they had found in the church and decided to investigate.

80

81

82

83

84

Paris At 4:30, we started for Paris, with some concern about what the traffic situation would be. Actually, although the auto route was crowded, the traffic remained “fluide” as the signs informed us, and we made good time. Once in the city, the fact that it was a holiday actually helped, for the streets were not nearly as crowded as would be normal for a workweek rush hour. Our problems started, however, when we were trying to return our car to the National/Cite rental place at the Gare Montparnasse. We found the address given to us by the agent in Strasbourg, but it was not correct. I inquired at a nearby bar and at a gas station and received a shrug at the first place and sharp sounding words at the second. We placed a call to National (we were thankful that at least the telephone number was correct) and the agent told us to take the car to a parking garage on Rue Mouchotte and then proceed to Hall Pasteur.

Simple enough, except that there were four parking garages on Rue Mouchotte and we had no idea where—or what—Hall Pasteur was. Jake stayed with the car and I set off, entering the train station looking for a clue. The station was huge and it was packed with travelers returning from their holiday destinations. After walking through the entire place, I found the Hall Pasteur up an escalator at the end (with a sign that pointed down) and at last found the National office. The young woman at the desk was not particularly pleasant but at least I got some idea of where to take the car. Getting back to Jake was not easy, and I went down to the train storage area trying to find the street exit where he was waiting. The office closed at 8:00 and we had about a half-hour to deposit the car and get back. I found Jake, and we drove into one of the four garages—unmarked with any sign designating that it was for National cars— and finally located the return area on level -4. When we got there, all the National parking places were taken. After losing precious minutes looking for a place to park, we finally had to leave the car at another rental agency’s area and rushed to the elevator to get back to the desk by 8:00. The elevators, however, were closed or broken or something, necessitating our walking up the steep spiraling car ramp to the street. We arrived back to the desk a few moments after 8:00 but our problems were not yet over. The agent told us that we would have to take our bags out of the car before we could check out. But there was no place to take them and get back in a timely basis. We had been given the wrong address by the agency and there was no place to park once we got there. Words were exchanged and I could see that we were not getting anywhere with her. I stepped outside and let Jake handle it. I could see by the body language through the glass that it was not a pleasant exchange. In the end, we had to go back to the garage, gather our seven weeks of luggage and purchases and drag them back up the steep ramp of the garage. Jake will have to check out in the morning. This was not an auspicious ending to our wonderful day, nor a great beginning to our stay in Paris. We finally loaded into a taxi, however, and arrived at the Hotel du Louvre sometime after 9:00. Famished, we found a simple bistro around the corner from our hotel where we had a simple satisfying steak frites dinner and lots of wine.

86

88

Tuesday, April 10

Paris

A lovely early spring day in Paris—it just does not get any more perfect than this. The trees are out in full and the leaves are that fresh, pale, promising green of a new season. Jake took care of the rental car return early while I worked on the computer and took a leisurely bath. We met at 10:00 and started the day together with café au lait and croissant at a corner café. Then we set out to walk the city, which is what you must do when the weather is such a gift. We walked down the Rue de Rivoli, stopping at Galignani Booksellers to buy a Paris Michelin guide in English. The store, purportedly the first English bookshop on the Continent, was really a treat. A great selection of art books pleased Jake and I found a copy of Beatrix Potter in French. We walked through the Tuileries and over to the Grand Palais, but found that the museum is closed on Tuesdays. Instead we continued along the Quai d’Orsay to the Quai Branly in order to visit the new Branly Museum of arts and civilization. It is a marvel. The museum takes the visitor up an illustrated sloping incline, where we followed the map though arts of Africa, Asia and the Americas. What we particularly noted was the dramatic lighting of each exhibit; masks that were meant to frighten were lighted from beneath, accenting the angles and strange expressions of the faces. Textiles were gently lighted to protect them, but the light was more uniform so that delicate patterns could be fully appreciated. The museum gave the visitor a real sense that the world is one and that all its peoples share the same urges, hopes and fears. We walked though a collection of photographs by photographer-explorer Desire Charnay, taken in the mid to late 19th century, of ruins in Mexico. There were two special exhibits going on as well. Garden of Love was an installation by a London-born Nigerian, Yinka Shonibare, where the artist created vignettes based on the work of Fragonard using headless dummies. In doing so, underscored the idea that the slave trade encouraged the opulent lifestyle associated with the French aristocracy— but there was an ultimate price for their pleasure: the guillotine. The second special exhibit was a collection of art from New Ireland, an island northeast of New Guinea. The show consisted primarily of large wooden masks, painted in blue and red, that were used in complex death rituals. It was interesting to see this collection from an area that we were not familiar with. We spent a long time in the bookshop afterwards, mainly so that Jake could jot down ISB Numbers for books he might like to look for later. Leaving the museum, we walked to the Eiffel Tower. In all my visits to Paris, I had never visited it, and I decided that it was something that I wanted to do. We had to wait more than an hour and a half in line, but when I stepped off the car and looked out over Paris, I got quite teary. It was indeed a magical experience for me. I took lots of pictures and enjoyed the views and the enthusiasm of the people around us. After more than two hours of standing we were feeling pretty tired, but staggered on to try to get into a Michelin Bib that we had found in our new book. We arrived at L’Ami Jean at 27 Rue Malar just before 7:00 when they opened, and they allowed us to come in if we would leave by 8:00. Service was excellent and we enjoyed a three-course Basque meal and wine and freed up the table promptly at 8:00. This seems to be a good plan—to come to a popular restaurant early if we have no reservations and promise to leave before those with reservations start to arrive. We walked home—hobbled, really—stopping to take night shots of the city.

89

90

Wednesday, April 11

Paris

Hard to believe that this is the last day of our seven-week dream trip. After a Continental breakfast at nearby Café de la Comedie, we walked down to the Pont de l’Alma and took a Bateaux-Mouches sightseeing cruise of Paris from the Seine. Since ours was the first cruise of the day, the boat (which holds 1000) was only partly full and we secured seats in the back so that we could take unobstructed pictures from that unique vantage point. At 13 Euros for the two of us, the hour-long trip was a bargain. We couldn’t have asked for better weather either. Next on Jake’s agenda for the day was the Grand Palais for an exhibit of classical art from India’s Gupta period (320-500 A.D.) In the first room, figures from the area of Mathura were of pink sandstone and had elongated proportions and serene expressions. The art became more refined in the area of Sarnath, where Buddha first preached, and were made of buff sandstone.

There were large photographs of murals that had been found in the caves at Ajanta and depicted secular life in India during that time.

The exhibit ended with terra cotta and metal sculptures from the 6th century temple of Deogarh, dedicated to the god Vishnu. Every time we visit such an exhibit, we wish we could travel to that country. We took the Metro to St. Denis in order for me to check off the last jewel of French gothic architecture that Jake wanted me to see. The history of the basilica is the history of the entire French monarchy. Many monarchs were crowned there; many more were buried there. Not as high as the cathedral at Bourges, St. Denis is still stunning and its grandeur is made all the greater by the numerous tombs that are located both in the transepts and the crypt. The crypt is probably the spookiest place I have ever been: the narrow ossuary that contains the remains of at least 60 kings, the small, dark princes’ chamber that looks like a scene from a vampire movie with coffin-shaped caskets just discernable in the dim light, the crumbling sarcophagi off in another dark corner. It was impressive to realize that Louis XVI, Louis XVIII and Marie Antoinette are just three of the many famous rulers entombed there. Back to the center of Paris on the Metro for a visit to the Louvre. We saw a wonderful exhibit of Armenian sacred art that included stone crosses from as early as the 5th century, gold and jeweled reliquaries and crosses, and beautiful illuminated manuscript bibles. Again, after seeing the exhibit, we were ready to plan a trip there.

Afterwards, we walked down the fabulous long hall that displays the Louvre’s collection of Italian art, and enjoyed seeing works by Antonello, Caravaggio, Leonardo and Bellini, both as familiar friends and as fresh new discoveries. After buying a hugely heavy catalogue of the Armenian exhibit, Jake was ready to go to the Richelieu branch of the library to see an exhibit of the photographs of Atget, one of his favorites. I, however, needed a break and opted to meet him back at the hotel later. I truly do not know how the man does it. When he came back, Jake told me that not only had the Atget exhibit been superb; there had been a second exhibit on Carolingian art and manuscripts as well. If I had known that, I might have pushed myself to accompany him, but the rest felt awfully good …. After confirming our airline reservations online, we set out once again, walking along the Rue de Rivoli towards the Marais.

Fun to see the bustle and activity on the streets after work, although we were almost run down by bicyclists and scooters on the sidewalk. We found a cozy little corner restaurant called Le Rouge Gorge on Rue St. Paul.

91

92

94

95

96

Thursday, April 12

Home Again

After almost seven weeks away, we were on our way back to Chicago. It was going to be a long day, with a flight to Heathrow to pick up our British Airways flight home. Because of the amount of luggage we had accumulated, Jake again agreed to take a taxi to the airport. Our driver delivered us to De Gaulle in record time, skillfully maneuvering through Paris rush-hour traffic with ease. My online seat choices worked out well and we had excellent seats on both flights.

Fortunate that neither flight was full and the weather was perfect. We were back in Chicago by 7:00 PM, the only glitch being that Jake’s bag had been delayed and would be delivered the next day.

If we hadn’t stayed up until 3:00 AM—more than 26 hours—going through mountains of accumulated mail, organizing laundry and unpacking an inordinate number of books, we probably would not have had any jet lag. As it was, we felt the aftereffects of the time change and the stress of travel for several days after our return. Our seven weeks in Europe could not have been more full. Jake’s meticulous planning and phenomenal endurance insured that we did not waste a moment. I am amazed at all that we managed to see and do each day. It is fortunate that in spite of our busy schedule, I never missed a day of journaling; otherwise there is no way I could ever remember all that we did. And it was indeed a remarkable trip.

97

98

99

Written and created by Susan Hanes With love and appreciation to my husband, George Leonard 2007 100