2021 Iceland 3

Iceland: Sagas, Waterfalls and Lava Fields 3

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip around Iceland from August 29 —September 20, 2021. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, (c) 2021. V. 3 Cover: Islandia 1587 Ortelius 2021 Fagradalsfjall volcano

Iceland: Sagas, Waterfalls and Lava Fields 3 August 29—September 20, 2021

Our one desire was to find the scenes of long ago, to put a background to the figures of history….We have seen the homes of heros.They are no longer empty names to us, no longer formless dreams; and with their reality the great dramas of old start into life and action. It is as if a curtain had gone suddenly up: as it our eyes were opened, at last, to the glory of the North.

—W.G. Collingwood, 1899

The conclusion of our trip to Iceland.

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Tuesday, September 14

to Ísafjörður

At noon, we left Djúpavík and retraced the unpaved 50km road around the peninsula, which was more treacherous after last night’s rain left it even muddier.

Eventually we rejoined Rt. 61, which followed each finger of the fjords. Again, we experienced sporadic heavy rain that was occasionally broken by the sun, creating a series of extraordinary rainbows and plays of light like a John Martin painting. We saw waterfalls, five and six at a time, as the road rose and fell from nearly sea level to hundreds of feet high.

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John Martin Joshua Commanding the Sun to Stand Still upon Gibeon, 1816

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We reached Ísafjörður (pop. 2,736) at around 5:00pm and checked into the

spent the entire evening looking at their phones. After drink orders were taken

Hotel Torg before heading out to Dokkan Brugghús to try the local brew. As it

and the famous fish soup was served, each table was invited to line up and

neared 8:00, we gathered with other diners (mostly young and tattooed) in front

choose from an abundant selection of fish dishes and sides. Among the choices

of Tjöruhúsið for the later seating in the popular—though out of the way—fish

were ling cod, salt cod, lemon sole, plaice, wolf fish, and salmon, cooked a

restaurant, which some say is the best in the country. Precisely at 8:00, we were

variety of ways and all served in giant black frying pans. Occasionally, Maggi (the

ushered in, our names were checked off, and we were seated at long tables that,

chef) came out to check on things, but for the most part, he stayed in the

before Covid, would have been packed tight. This evening, however, there was a

kitchen and kept on cooking. After everyone had their fill, coffee, tea, and store-

minimal social distancing imposed. We sat near two women from Taiwan who

bought cookies were offered, and we noticed Maggi slip out the door.

Ísafjörður

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Wednesday, September 15

to Stykkishólmur

There was no hurry to get to breakfast since we planned to visit the Byggðasafn Vestfjarða (Heritage Museum), which did not open until 11:00. After reading about the awards the museum had received, we found it disappointing and were sorry that we had waited all morning for it to open. The ship models and 18th century carved wooden boxes on the first floor were interesting, but it was not worth our negotiating the steep and dangerous steps to the second floor to find a collection of 1960s appliances, several of which I had once owned myself. We skipped third floor when we saw that it contained a display of accordions.

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Dýrafjörður fjord is the setting of many of the places described in the Saga of Gísli, a tragic hero who must kill one member of his family to avenge another. A detailed panel at the water’s edge pointed out the locations around the fjord where the events depicted in the saga took place between 860 and 980, and were recorded more than 200 years later.

We headed south, passing through two long tunnels, one of which featured a turn lane in the middle, and a two-way, one-lane passage with a stop light and turnouts for those who might have missed the signal. The second tunnel opened in 2020 with updated technology that permitted a speed limit of 70km/h and saved us a good deal of time.

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Dynjandi (“Thundering Water”) is the largest waterfall in the Westfjords with a total height of 300 feet. Below it, five other waterfalls create an impressive image. As I was getting out of the car, I noticed an older couple picking berries with the old-fashioned combed scoops I used to see in Germany. I went over to ask what they were picking, and the woman said, “Krækiber.”

When I looked the word up, I learned that they were crowberries, a kind of wild blueberry that is small and tart that is used to make muffins, jam, and kvöldsól (“night sun”), a kind of wine. The two were very friendly and offered to share their harvest with me. I settled for a taste. I went back to the car to get my poles and hiked up a good distance to the falls but stopped at a high rock ledge that I feared I could not get down from again.

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Dynjandi

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From there the road was unpaved and under construction, taking us through

passengers were required to wear masks. We eavesdropped on conversations

some rugged country to reach the ferry at Brjánslækur for our 6:00pm crossing

when we could: I overheard a woman holding a stuffed dachshund tell

to the Snæfellsnes peninsula. We reached the terminal at 2:30 in brilliant sun,

someone that they always wanted a dog but realized when they retired that

lamenting the fact that we had to use such good weather to wait for the ferry.

having a real one was too much work, so she brings along this toy wherever

The MV Baldor arrived at 5:30 and the vehicles were loaded, the attendant

they go. The stop at Flatey only took ten minutes to let off a few passengers

packing us in as close to the walls as possible so that I had to get out before

and take on a couple more. It did not appear that there was much to see and

Jake could park. The crossing was two and a half hours, with an intermediate

we were glad that we had not planned to spend the night. There was more roll

stop at Flatey Island. The ferry was crowded but allowed for distancing, and

to the remaining crossing as we watched the sky turn from blue to grey.

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Flatey Island

When we reached Stykkishólmur (pop. 1,100) we were fortunate to be

had to smile when we thought about the people waiting to check in with

among the first off the ferry and got the last parking space at the Hótel Egilsen.

massive suitcases in tow. We only brought in our small bags. While everyone

As soon as we stepped up to the registration desk, a line of people formed

was lined up we scooted across the street and got a table at Narfeyrarstofa,

behind us. Our room #1 is literally next to the desk and, although very nicely

where we ordered local scallops from Breiðafjörður and Einstök beers before

appointed, is miniscule. We knew ahead of time that the rooms were small, and

returning to our tiny room.

Stykkishólmur

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Thursday, September 16

to Búðir

Because the hotel dining area was so small, we had been asked to pick a time for

also appears in Laxdæla saga. Written in the 13th century, the saga recounts

breakfast so that all guests could be accommodated. We were served the nicest

stories of the people in Breiðafjörður from the late 9th to the early 11th

breakfast of the trip, beginning with a berry smoothie and including salmon,

centuries. The saga focuses on the love triangle between Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir,

pastries, skyr and fruit. The little room was lined with books and I leafed through

Kjartan Ólafsson and Bolli Þorleiksson. Kjartan and Bolli grow up together as close

a volume of translated Icelandic poems over my coffee. The rain started as soon

friends but the love they both have for Guðrún causes hostility between them

as we stepped out to take a walk around Stykkishólmur, so we snapped a few

and eventually, tragedy. Helgafell is the last location where Guðrún lived, and it is

pictures and left town. We drove to Helgafell, a small mountain with a big

said that she is buried there. A large rock with a plaque has been placed in her

history. A temple in honor of Þór (Thor) was built there by the area’s first settler,

honor, where pilgrims have left stones in remembrance. The quote is from the

Þórólfr Mostrarskegg, whose story is described in Eyrbyggja saga. The mountain

saga’s prologue: “I was worst to the one I loved best.”

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Helgafell

But, turning round, Kjartan upon the other hand she found, Gazing upon her with wide hungry eyes And parted lips; then did strange joy surprise Her listless heart, and changed her old world was; Ere she had time to think, all woe did pass Away from her, and all her life grew sweet…

—William Morris, “The Lovers of Gudrun”

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Berserkjahraun

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West of Helgafell, we passed through Berserkjahraun, a 4000-year-old lava

emphasizing that Greenland shark is poisonous if eaten fresh but

field mentioned in the Eyrbyggja saga. In the middle of the lava field at

fermentation neutralizes the toxin. The video stressed that the sharks that are

Bjarnarhöfn is the Shark Museum, a shark processing operation that has been

used are accidental kills and are not hunted. After the presentation, we were

the livelihood of one family for generations and is still the area‘s leading

invited to taste the pungent shark meat, along with a shot of Brennivin. It

producer of hákarl, Iceland’s notorious fermented shark meat. The museum

tasted like a sponge soaked in mild ammonia; I could not swallow the

featured the history of hákarl and displayed the family’s fishing boats and

Brennivin fast enough. We walked out to the open-air drying shed in the

processing tools. A video explained the hunting and fermenting process,

back where blocks of shark were hanging out to cure.

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Kirkjufell Persistent rain precluded dramatic views of the peninsula as we drove towards Grundarfjörður and Kirkjufell (“Church Mountain”), said to be the most photographed mountain in Iceland, probably because it was one of the filming locations in Game of Thrones.

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The road was freshly paved, but we noted that often new roads are still disconcerting when they have not been marked or lined. The White Church at Ingjaldshóll was part of a former settlement manor and assembly during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served a large congregation until the 19th century and was the third largest church in Iceland. It is said that the current church, built in 1903, is the oldest concrete church in the world.

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Saxhóll

Saxhóll is a striking black crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula that features a stairway to the top for views out over the Atlantic. It would have been nice to hike around Djúpulón Lagoon and Djúpalónssandur, the rocky black lava beach next to it, but the day was passing quickly. We did pause at the head of the path for views of the moss-covered lava that encircled the lagoon.

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Djúpulón and Djúpalónssandur

Laugarbrekka

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Laugarbrekka was an ancient farm dating back to Settlement times. It was the birthplace of Gudrid Thorbjarnardóttir, the mother of the first white man born in America. Her story is recorded in the Vinland sagas. Her statue is tucked behind the remains of a turf church and farm buildings. The site was also said to have been the birthplace of Bárðr Snæfellsás, the mythical hero of the 14th century Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss. A rustic stone figure depicting him was erected at the village of Arnarstapi in 1985 by the sculptor Ragnar Kjartansson.

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This evening we are staying at the Hótel Búðir with a room looking out at the Búðakirkja, the Black Church.

Before settling in for the evening, we went up the hill for a closer look. The church was built in 1703 by Bent Lárusson, a local merchant. It was rebuilt in 1848

by Steinunn Sveinsdóttir and has become popular for weddings. Later, when we were having cocktails in the hotel bar, we met Colin and Jenny, a couple from Boston who were in Búðir to organize their March wedding. We discussed Icelandic spirits with the bartender and learned about Björk, a fragrant liqueur distilled from grain and infused with Icelandic birch. We also had a conversation with Sigríður Gísladóttir who was sitting near her paintings of pagan goddesses that were hanging on a nearby wall. Much to my chagrin, Jake asked her if she were a witch. Not offended in the least, she answered that she was, and showed us the amulet that hung around her neck.

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Magic Number Chart 39

Friday, September 17

to Reykjavík

The weather was varied as we drove along the coastal plain between sea and mountains towards Borgarnes (pop. 3,800) where we visited Landnámssetrið Íslands (The Settlement Center), housed in an old warehouse. One exhibit provided insight into the settlement of Iceland based on The Book of Icelanders and The Book of Settlement, two documents written in the 13th century. We learned how Iceland was discovered and why the Vikings left their homeland in Norway. The exhibit took us through the time of Settlement up to the establishment of the first parliament at Þingvellir, in the year 930. In the cellar of the museum, we toured an exhibit focusing on Egils saga and the story of Viking poet Egill Skallagrimsson. The saga was illustrated by the work of several artists who used wood to tell the stories of battles and love affairs, magic and witchcraft.

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Borg á Mýrum is a farm just west of Borgarnes with a history that reaches back to Settlement times. Egill Skallagrímsson’s father farmed there, as did Snorri Sturluson (1179-1241), Iceland’s greatest historian and poet, who lived there until he moved to Reykholt in 1206. Kjartan Ólafsson, one of Laxdæla saga’s three main characters, is said to be buried at Borg. Although I explored the churchyard and surrounding area, we found little remaining evidence of its former significance.

A twentieth-century monument by Icelandic sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson stands near the church. It represents Egill as he grieves for two of his sons, Gunnar and Böðvarr. In the poem Sonatorrek, recorded in the saga, Egill laments his unbearable loss.

Now my course is tough: Death, close sister of Odin’s enemy stands on the ness: with resolu:on and without remorse I shall gladly await my own.

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Reykholt (pop. 60) was at one time the ecclesiastical and intellectual center of Iceland and the home of Iceland’s favorite son, Snorri Sturluson, from the time he left Borg until his death in 1241. The Snorrastofa Cultural and Research Center was established in 1988 with opening ceremonies that were attended by the Presidents of Iceland and Norway. A new center was opened in 1995 for the purpose of conducting research on the medieval period in general, and Snorri and his works in particular. Saga Snorra, an exhibition exploring the words and images of Snorri’s life and time was particularly interesting to us since two of the works that we were shown at the Árnastofnun were prominently featured. Seeing the exhibit of Theta Fragment of Egil’s saga and the Melsteð Edda brought our trip full-circle both figuratively and literally. Behind the center and an impressive statue of the man, Snorri’s bath remains. It was one of the first archeological sites to be listed in Iceland and perhaps its best-known. An underground passage from the farmhouse to the pool is extant as well. The entire area exudes the spirit of Iceland’s great poet and scholar.

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I came in to where a woman sat, the most beautiful of women, combing her long hair.

—a love verse by Snorri Sturluson to Guðrún Hreinsdóttir

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Snorri’s Bath

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A detour led us to the farm community of Hvanneyri (pop. 250).

Ullarselið is a cooperative wool center located there. Its members process natural wool to create sweaters and other items by hand.

Behind the shop, an extensive agricultural museum displayed farm vehicles and implements in addition to all things related to the shearing, spinning, and knitting of wool. Although we did not buy the traditional lopapeysur (Icelandic sweaters) Jake picked out a lightweight shawl for me, hand-knitted in a series of intricate patterns.

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We returned to Rt. 1 for the final drive into Reykjavík, predictably encountering traffic heading out of town for the weekend. After a hassle topping off the gas tank, we returned our muddy car to the rental place a half-hour before closing. A taxi took us to the Hotel Borg, sister property to the Apotek, where our trip started. Craving hamburgers, we settled for a fish burger and seafood pasta at Messinn, near the hotel.

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Saturday, September 18

Reykjavík

We returned to Hressingarskálinn, the café where we had breakfast at the beginning of our trip.

The same smiling woman with the heart tattoo greeted us. This time we knew to order wisely.

At 9:45, a taxi took us to Reykjavík Airport for a highlight of our visit to Iceland: a helicopter flight over the 2021 Fagradalsfjall volcano. There had been uncertainty about our ability to take this trip since the weather and the wind are big factors, as well as the activity of the volcano itself. But good fortune was with us and the flight, which we had arranged weeks ago, was a go.

The sky was overcast (the perfect backdrop), the winds were calm, and Fagradalsfjall was more active than it had been for several days. We met our pilot, Thor, at the HELO office at the domestic airport, and joined an Icelandic couple and an American woman for the trip. We walked out to the waiting craft and after listening to the safety instructions, we each found a place next to a large window. My usual case of nerves disappeared as we rose from the ground and smoothly sailed over the city, heading southwest to the site of the eruption. For nearly an hour, Thor circled the volcano, turning back and forth so that each of us had unobstructed views.

We could see down into the cone, where molten lava was churning and smoke billowed out.

We flew over long rivers of black lava, streaked by fresh magma that glowed fiery red. It was a remarkable experience, and a dramatic conclusion to our trip.

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Back at the hotel, we spent the afternoon organizing and packing for our flight home. At 5:00 we headed up Laugavegur street for the last time. We sat at the bar at Sümac restaurant until it was time for our 6:45 dinner reservations at ÓX, a Michelin-designated restaurant-within-the-restaurant. A unique dining experience, ÓX invites 11 guests to sit at a hidden counter behind a door at the back, and watch as various techniques are used to create imaginative dishes using local ingredients. Chef Rúnar Pierre, of Haitian-Icelandic heritage, and his apprentice created 16 intricate courses as we watched. The evening lasted three hours. Although it was pouring rain as we walked back to the hotel, the streets were filled with partiers hitting the clubs on a Saturday night. One fellow in a 66°North cap wandered up and informed us that his parents had met at Woodstock.

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Sunday, September 19

Reykjavík

The rain was gone and it was a sunny Sunday morning for our last day in Iceland.

We got a slow start, as we could feel ourselves winding down and starting to think of home. We wandered over to the harbor area to visit the Kolaportið, Iceland's only flea market. I was hoping that I might find the elusive Icelandic antique I’d been looking for. Amongst the sunglasses, fermented shark, records, and books, I found a few vendors selling household jumble but nothing that I wanted: no little carved boxes like the one in our room in Djúpavík; no interesting wooden kitchen implements; nothing with hearts. We did not stay long. As the afternoon wore on, we found ourselves at the English Pub again where we sat at the bar and watched Icelandic football over glasses of Einstök White Ale, our eventual brew of choice. Two doors down, we had dinner at the American Bar, where we finally got our hamburger fix, exchanging soccer for the NFL on large-screen TVs. We could have moved to the Irish Pub next, but we have an early day tomorrow and decided to call it a night.

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Monday, September 20

to Chicago

At 6:00am a taxi took us to the Reykjavík terminal where we boarded the bus to Keflavík airport, arriving in plenty of time to turn in our tax-refund receipts and buy Icelandic gin and Brennivín at the Duty Free shop. United 913 took off on time at 10:30am and we landed in Chicago at 12:10pm, 15 minutes early.

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The Faces of

Iceland

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Icelandic

Hearts

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Sagas, Waterfalls and Lava Fields ICELAND ITINERARY August 29 to September 20, 2021 AUGUST Sunday 29

Depart: O’Hare International Airport, ORD, Terminal 1 on United Airlines Flight UA 912 (Boeing 757) at 19:45 (on time) Meals: in flight EN ROUTE TO ICELAND

Monday 30

Arrive: Keflavík International Airport, KEF, Keflavík, Iceland at 06:45 (15 minutes early); 2,530 air miles; 6 hours, 0 minutes Sites: Reykjavík: Sun Voyager sculpture; Dómkirkjan (Cathedral); Alþingi (Parliament); Ráðhúsið (City Hall); Tjörnin Pond; Aðalstræti street and adjacent streets; Landnámssýningin (Settlement Exhibition).

Lunch: Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur at 14:30 Drinks: Einstök Bar Dinner: Mat Bar at 18:45 Apotek Hotel: Room 211 Austurstræti 16, Reykjavík REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND 48°-55°; drizzle, overcast

Tuesday 31

Breakfast: Hressingarskálinn Sites: all Skólavörðustígur Street; Hallgrímskirkja; Leifur Eiríksson Statue; Tjörnin Pond; Listasafn Islands (National Gallery of Iceland); Harbor Promenade; Old Harbor; Safnahúsið; (The Culture House); all Laugavegur Street.

Dinner: Skál! at 17:00 Drinks: English Pub Apotek Hotel: Room 211 REYKJAVÍK 47°-55°; overcast, occasional sun

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SEPTEMBER Wednesday 1

Thursday 2

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Breakfast: Hressingarskálinn Sites: Þjóðminjasafn Íslands (National Museum of Iceland); Háskóli Íslands (University of Iceland); Árnagarður; Árnastofnun (Árni Magnússon Institute); Tjörnin Pond Activities: meeting from 13:00 to 15:00 at Árnastofnun (Árni Magnússon Institute) with Guðvarður Már Gunnlaugsson, Director, and Margaret Cormack Dinner: Dill at 19:00 Apotek Hotel: Room 211 REYKJAVÍK 48°-56°; overcast Breakfast: Hressingarskálinn Route: taxi to My Car Rental; 1 NE to Mosfellsbær and 36 W to Þingvellir; 36, 365, 37, 35 W to Geysir and Gullfoss; 35, 31 S to Skálholt and 35 S 1; 1 E by Selfoss and Hella to 266; 266 S to Oddi and return; 1 E to Hvolsvöllur and 264; 264 N to Keldur and return; 1 E to 254; 254 S to Landeyjahöfn; ferry S to Heimaey Activities: Reykjavik: My Car Rental in Iceland; pick-up at 08:30 of white 2021 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid 4x4 with auto transmission and with 25,407 kilometers on odometer Sites: Þingvellir: Þingvellir National Park (UNESCO); Geysir; Gullfoss: waterfall; Skálholt: cathedral site and excavations; church; museum; Ranga River system: saga sites; Oddi: monastery site and church;Keldur: turf farm; Vestmannaeyjar; Heimaey Depart: Landeyjahöfn, on Vestmannaeyjar Ferry (MV Herjólfur) at 17:15 Arrive: Vestmannaeyjar (Heimaey), at 17:50 (31 kilometers; 35 minutes) Dinner: Heimaey: Gott at 19:00 Drinks: Heimaey: The Brother’s Brewery Hótel Vestmannaeyjar: Room 421 Vestmannabraut 28, Vestmannaeyjar HEIMAEY, WESTERN ISLANDS 48°-55°; rain, drizzle, overcast 318 km

Friday 3

Breakfast: Hótel Vestmannaeyjar Route: 254 N to 1; 1 E by Skógar to 218; 218 S to Dyrholaey and return; 1 W to 215; 215 S to Reynisdrangar and return; 1 E by Vic to 209; 209 NE to Hrifunes Sites: Heimaey: drive past transmitter tower, past golf course and circumnavigate island; Skansinn fort; Stave Church; Eldfellshraun lava flow; Eldfell volcano; Eldheimar Museum; Skógar: Skógafoss waterfall; Dyrholaey: cliff above black sand beach and natural rock arch; Reynisdrangar: basalt columns; Reynisfjara: black sand beach Activities: Heimaey: Ribsafari’s One Hour Small Islands Trip from 12:00 to 13:20 Depart: Heimaey on Vestmannaeyjar Ferry (MV Herjólfur) at 16:00 Arrive: Landeyjahöfn, at 16:35 (31 kilometers; 35 minutes) Dinner: Hrifunes: Hrifunes Guest House at 19:30 Hrifunes Guesthouse: Room 8 Hrifunes Road 209, Hrifunes HRIFUNES 48°-55°; overcast, occasional sun 179 km

Saturday 4

Breakfast: Hrifunes Guesthouse Route: 209 SW to 1; 1 E to 206, 206 N 3 km to Fjaðrargljufur and return; 1 E to 998 and Skaftafell Sites: Fjaðrargljufur: Fjaðrá River canyon and gorge; Dverghamrar: basalt column formations; Foss á Síðu: waterfall; Skeiðarársandur: glacial flats and rivers; Skaftafell Nature Reserve in Vatnajökull National Park (UNESCO); Skaftafellsjökull: glacier (outlet glacier of Vatnajokull Glacier) Activities: Skaftafell: Local Guide of Vatnajökull Glacier Encounter tour from 14:15 to 17:00; guide: Siggy Snack: Skaftafell Gas Station Dinner: Hotel Skaftafell at 19:30 Hotel Skaftafell: Room 121 Skaftafelli 2, Freynesi FREYSNES 49°-55°; overcast, rain, overcast 135 km

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Sunday 5

Breakfast: Hotel Skaftafell Route: 1 E by Jökulsárlón and NE to Höfn Sites: Skaftafell Nature Reserve in Vatnajökull National Park (UNESCO): Visitor Center; Svartifoss: waterfall with columnar basalt surroundings; Jökulsárlón: blue water lagoon with icebergs from two locations; Höfn Activities: Svartifoss: hike to waterfall Dinner: Pakkhús at 17:30 Milk Factory: Room 110 Dalbraut 2, Höfn HÖFN 50°-58°, rain, overcast, sunny, clear late 155 km

Monday 6

Breakfast: Milk Factory Route: 1 NE past Djúpivogur to Breiðdalsvik; 96 N to Reyðarfjordur; 92 N to Egilsstaðir; 93 E to Seyðisfjörður Sites: East Coast: Djúpivogur; Berufjörður; Breiðdalsvík; Fáskrúðsfjörður; Reyðarfjordur; Seyðisfjörður: Seyðisfjörður (Blue Church); Rainbow Street; fjord Drinks: El Grillo Dinner: Nordic Restaurant in Hotel Aldan at 19:30 Hotel Aldan (Old Bank): Room 201 Nordurgata 2, Seyðisfjörður SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR 48°-55°; overcast, persistent rain 299 km

Tuesday 7

Breakfast: Nordic Restaurant in Hotel Aldan Route: 93 W to Egilsstaðir; 1 S to 931; 931 around Lagarfljót to 1; 1 W to 901; 901 S to Möðrudalur Sites: Seyðisfjörður: harbor; Lagarfljót: lake (with worm monster?); Rjukandafoss: waterfall; Möðrudalur: farm Dinner: Möðrudalur: Restaurant Fjallakaffi Fjalladyrð; Room 2 Möðrudal, Mývatn MOÐRUDALUR 48°-53°; sunny, overcast, drizzle 202 km

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Wednesday 8

Breakfast: Fjallakaffi Route: F905, F910, F88, F894 to Askja and return Sites: Möðrudalur: farm; Vatnajokull National Park (UNESCO); Herðubreið: tuya or table top mountain; Askja: volcanic crater and lake; Víti: volcanic crater and thermal lake; Holuhraun: lava field Activities: Fjalladyrð Tours’ Askja Day Tour in Super Jeep with Ingo from 08:00 to 17:30 Dinner: Restaurant Fjallakaffi at 18:00 Fjalladyrð: Room 2 MOÐRUDALUR 38°-46°: sunny, drizzle, clear 2 km (plus driven 240 km)

Thursday 9

Breakfast: Fjallakaffi Route: 901 S to 1; 1 W to 862; 862 N by Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi; 85 E to Húsavík Sites: Krafla: volcanic craters and thermal mudpots; thermal power station; Jökulsárlón: glacial river lagoon; Dettifoss: waterfall; Selfoss: waterfall; Ásbyrgi: canyon; Húsavík: Húsavíkurkirkja (church) Drinks: Ja Ja Ding Dong Bar Dinner: Naustið at 19:00 Húsavík Cape Hotel; Room 201 Laugarbrekka 26, Húsavík HÚSAVÍK 48°-58°; sunny, clear 243 km

Friday 10

Breakfast: Húsavík Cape Hotel Sites: Húsavík: Whale Museum Activities: North Sailing’s Whales and Sails tour on wooden schooner Ópal from 11:30 to 15:15 Dinner: Salka Húsavík Cape Hotel: Room 201 HÚSAVÍK 48°-55°; sunny, overcast, windy 2 km

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Saturday 11

Breakfast: Húsavík Cape Hotel Route: 85 to 87 S to 1; 1 E to Hverir and 863; 1 W to 848; 848 S and W around Lake Mývatn to 1; 1 W by Goðafoss to Akureyri Sites: Hverir: mud cauldrons, fumaroles, lunar-like landscapes; Lake Mývatn: lake with lava formations; Reykjahlíð; Dimmuborgir: lava field; Hverfjall: volcanic cone and caldera; Goðafoss (God’s Falls): waterfall; Akureyri: Akureyrarkirkja (cathedral); heart shaped traffic lights Drinks: Grillstofan Restaurant and Ölstofa Akureyrar (Einstök Brewery Lounge) Dinner: Rub 23 at 19:30 Hotel Kea: Room 410 Hafnarstraeti 89, Akureyri AKUREYRI 48°-55°; overcast, dull sun 162 km

Sunday 12

Breakfast: Hotel Kea Route: 1 W to 82; 82 N to Dalvik; 76 N by Siglufjörður and S to 707; 707 E to Hólar and return; 76 S to 75; 75 W and S by Glaumbær to 1; 1 W by Viðimyri to Blönduós Sites: Akureyri: Lystigarðurinn (Arctic Botanic Garden); Tröllaskagi Peninsula: mountainscapes; Siglufjörður: Síldarminjasafn Íslands (Herring Museum); Hólar: Hóladomkirka (Cathedral); livestock sale; Glaumbær:18th c turf farm Víðimýri: Víðimýrarkirkja: church Dinner: Brimslóð Atelier at 19:30 Brimslóð Atelier Guesthouse; Double Room with shared bath; Room 2 Brimslóð 10, Blönduós BLÖNDUÓS 46°-53°; overcast, rain and drizzle, overcast 179 km

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Monday 13

Breakfast: Brimslóð Atelier Route: 1 SW to 721; 721 N Þingeyrar and return; 1 W to 68 at Staðarskáli; 68 N past Hólmavík to Staður; 643 N to 645 (around peninsula) and N to 643 and Djupavik Sites: Þingeyrar: Þingeyrarkirkja; Strandir Coast: wild, remote, mountainous; Hólmavík: Strandagaldur (Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft); Djúpavík: former herring factory Dinner: Djúpavík: Hotel Djúpavík at 19:00 Hotel Djúpavík; shared bath; Room 5 Djúpavík DJÚPAVÍK 48°-55°; overcast, much rain, drizzle, late sunny 273 km

Tuesday 14

Breakfast: Hotel Djúpavík Route: 643 S to Staður; 61 W by Reykjanes to Ísafjörður Sites: Ísafjarðardjúp: scenic fjord; Reykjanes: thermal pool; Ísafjörður Activities: Djúpavík: tour of herring factory from 10:00 to 12:00 Drinks: Ísafjörður: Dokkan Brugghús Dinner: Ísafjörður: Tjöruhúsið at 20:00 Hotel Ísafjörður Torg; Room 409 Silfurtorg 2, Ísafjörður ÍSAFJÖRÐUR 48°-55°; overcast, much rain, occasional sun, rainbows

Wednesday 15

280 km

Breakfast: Hotel Ísafjörður Torg Route: 60 S to 62; 62 S to Brjánslækur (ferry); ferry S by Flatey Island to Stykkishólmur Sites: Ísafjörður: Byggðasafn Vestfjarða (Heritage Museum); Dynjandi: waterfall; Breiðafjörður: scenic fjord; Flatey Depart: Brjánslækur, on Seatours Eimskip Ferry (MV Baldur) at 18:00; Arrive: Stykkishólmur, at 20:30 (58 km; 2.5 hrs.

Dinner: Narfeyrarstofa at 21:00 Hótel Egilsen; Room 1 Adalgotu 2, Stykkishólmur STYKKISHÓLMUR 45°-54°; sunny, overcast, clear at ferry 99 km 93

Thursday 16

Breakfast: Hótel Egilsen Route: 58 S past Helgafell to 577; 577 W to Bjarnarhöfn and 54; 54 W to Ólafsvík; 574 and S to Búðir Sites: Stykkishólmur: 19th century buildings; Helgafell (Holy Mountain): saga site: Guðrún’s monument; Bjarnarhöfn: Shark Museum: Hákarl (fermented shark meat); Berserkjahraun: saga site; lava fields Grundarfjörður: scenic fjord: Kirkjufell: scenic mountain; Ingjaldshóll: white church; Hellissandur: fishing village; Saxhóll: volcanic crater; Laugarbrekka: historic farm; Snæfellsjökull National Park: Djúpulón Beach; Arnarstapi: scenic area; Bárður statue; Búðir: lava field; Búðakirkja Dinner: Hótel Búðir at 19:00 Hótel Búðir; Room 13 Buðum, Snæfellsbær BÚÐIR 48°-55°; rain, overcast, sunny late 156 km

Friday 17

Breakfast: Hótel Búðir Route: 54 E to Borgarnes; 1 NE past Borg a Mýrum to 50; 50 and 519 NE to Reykholt; 519 and 50 SW past Hvanneyri to 1;1 S through toll tunnel to Reykjavík; taxi from My Car Rental in Iceland to hotel Sites: Borgarnes; Settlement Centre Museum; Borg a Mýrum: farm, saga site; Reykholt; Snorrastofa Medieval Centre; Snorralaug (pool) and Statue; old church Activities: returned rental car at 16:45 at My Car Rental in Iceland, Vatnagarðar 12; odometer at return: 28,457 Dinner: Messinn at 19:00 Hotel Borg; Room 230 Pósthússtræti 11, Reykjavík REYKJAVÍK 43°-50°; sunny, overcast, drizzle 264 km

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Saturday 18

Breakfast: Hressingarskálinn Activities: Reykjavík Airport: HELO Helicopter Service of Iceland’s Fagradalsfjall Volcano flight piloted by Þór from 10:30 to 11:30; antigen Covid test at BSI Terminal at 13:00 Drinks: Sumac Dinner: ÓX: Laugavegur 28 (Sumac Restaurant) at 18:30 Hotel Borg Room 230 REYKJAVÍK 42°-54°; overcast, drizzle, heavy rain

Sunday 19

Breakfast: Hotel Borg Activities: Kolaportið Flea Market at 11:15 Drinks: English Pub Dinner: American Bar at 18:00 Hotel Borg Room 230 REYKJAVÍK 45°-53°; sunny, overcast late

Monday 20

Breakfast: Activities: taxi at 06:00 to BSI Terminal; Flybus-Reykjavík Excursions Shuttle Bus transfer to Keflavík Airport at 06:30; tax refund at currency exchange by Arion Bank Depart: Keflavík International Airport, KEF, on United Airlines Flight UA913 (Boeing 757-200) at 10:30 (on time); Meals: in flight Arrive O’Hare International Airport, ORD, Terminal 5, Chicago, Illinois at 12:10 (15 minutes early); 2,530 air miles; 6 hours, 40 minutes CHICAGO Reykjavik: rainy 40°; Chicago overcast 78°

Total distance drove on trip: 3,050 kilometers/ 1,906 miles Total distance drove and driven (Askja) on trip: 3,290 kilometers/ 2,056 miles

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Islandia

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Abraham Ortelius, 1587

Few people take an interest in Iceland, but in those few the interest is passionate.

W. H. Auden

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A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip around Iceland from August 29 —September 20, 2021. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, (c) 2021 V. 3