2021 Cruising the Caribbean 2

Cruising the Caribbean 2

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a Caribbean cruise from November 24-December 8, 2021. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, © 2021.V.2 Cover: The Caribbean London: Sayer, 1775 Betty’s Hope, Antigua © Susan Hanes

Cruising the Caribbean 2 November 24-December 8, 2021

A continuation of our cruise aboard the Crystal Serenity and our days in San Juan.

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Antigua and Barbuda Antigua and Barbuda is a sovereign country consisting of two major islands that are separated by 39 miles and several smaller islands.

The population is about 97,120 with 97% being resident on Antigua.

The capital and largest port and city is St. John’s. The island of Antigua was explored

by Christopher Columbus in 1493 and named for the Church of Santa María La Antigua. Antigua was colonized by Britain in 1632 and Barbuda in 1678. Having been part of the Federal Colony of the Leeward Islands from 1871, Antigua and Barbuda joined the West Indies Federation in 1958. It was granted independence from the United Kingdom on 1 November 1981 and is member of the Commonwealth.

Elizabeth II is the country's Queen and Head of State.

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Friday, December 3

St. John’s, Antigua and Barbuda

Last night, Jake checked with the concierge about Covid restrictions for visitors

are pretty uncomfortable, and we have gotten used to not wearing them on

to Antigua and was told that, contrary to St. Kitts and St. Lucia, there were

the ship. As we drove through town, we saw numerous billboards honoring

none. But he learned that the ship would be docking at a different pier than the

various dignitaries who had died, including Former Prime Minister Sir Lester

one advertised. This was a significant concern because our independent tour

Bryant Bird, who had passed away earlier this year. Signs of the approaching

guide (through Tours by Locals) in Antigua was scheduled to meet us at the

Christmas season were everywhere, with creches and stars and a huge MERRY

original location and we had no way to contact her. It was a relief this morning

CHRISTMAS marquee installed over a department store entrance. As we

to learn that we would be docking at our original location after all. Unlike our

drove along, it appeared that Antigua is flatter and less verdant than St. Kitts or

other ports of call, there were two other ships in the port of St. John’s this

St. Lucia. We passed attractive government buildings, including the Parliament

morning, the Regent Seven Seas Explorer and the Norwegian Gem. Ann, Jake

and the House of Culture. Resorts appeared to be smaller and more modest

and I met our guide, Emelda Frank, as arranged, shortly before 9:00am just

than others we have seen. Road work was going on in several places and we

outside the port area. After greeting us with a wide smile, she whisked us away

noticed that at each one, egrets were neatly lined up beside the digging

in a small van. She had installed clear plastic between herself and her passengers

equipment. When I asked about them, Emelda told us that they were waiting

so that we were invited to ditch our masks. In the hot, humid climate, masks

to catch the worms that appeared in the turned soil.

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Our first stop was Sir Vivian Richards Stadium. Cricket is huge in Antigua. A team representing Antigua and Barbuda has been active since the 1890s. The stadium, named after superstar Viv Richards, was built for the 2007 Cricket World Cup. Meant to seat 10,000, capacity was doubled for that tournament. In the front of the stadium, a gold statue—reminiscent of Michael Jordan— stands in honor of Sir Viv, “The Master Blaster”. The facility was built with major funding from a Chinese Government grant. We learned that the Chinese have built numerous facilities on the island, including schools and hospitals.

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Sir Vivian Richards Cricket Stadium 7

Continuing along the eastern side of the island, we visited Betty’s Hope, Antigua’s first sugar plantation, established in 1694 by Christopher Codrington and named for his daughter.

The site is evocative, with restored 18th century stone windmills and the remains of the great house and a distillery nearby. The windmills used rollers to squeeze the juice from the cane stalks into holding tanks. One of them has been completely restored and was made operational again in 1995.

At its peak, the plantation had 400 slaves.

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Betty’s Hope Sugar Plantation

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Following a dirt road off the main highway, Emelda took us to Devil’s Bridge, located on a windswept bluff ringed by rugged cliffs that had been shaped by the pounding of waves. A bridge of rock spans part of the area and waves blow through holes on either side. With a bit of patience, I was able to get a pretty good shot.

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Devil’s Bridge

At Long Bay, we enjoyed seeing a reef-protected beach with pinkish sand and clear-blue water. The place we stopped was far from the resorts and bars and was one of the most appealing beaches I have seen since Guam days.

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Long Bay

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Our tickets to Nelson’s Dockyard permitted us to also visit Shirley Heights, a

repairing ships. The construction of the Dockyard by the British navy would

restored military lookout and gun battery. The Lookout is a high point (about

not have been possible without the labor of generations of enslaved Africans

490 ft.) that affords a wonderful view of English and Falmouth Harbors. It was

since the end of the 18th century. Its purpose was to protect the interests of

named after Thomas Shirley, Governor of the Leeward Islands, who

sugar cane planters at a time when European powers were competing for

strengthened Antigua’s defenses in 1781. In pre-Covid times, dances and

control of the Eastern Caribbean. Today we found numerous yachts moored

gatherings were frequent in this beautiful setting, but today we only saw a few

in the harbor for the Antigua Charter Yacht Show. It is unfortunate that the

vendors selling trinkets nearby. We continued to Nelson’s Dockyard, a

Dockyard has been overly commercialized, with gift shops and restaurants and

UNESCO World Heritage site. The dockyard consists of a group of Georgian-

a hotel diminishing the sense of history that I would have expected from a

style naval buildings and structures, set within a walled enclosure. The natural

UNESCO site. It was nothing like Williamsburg, Virginia or Louisbourg, Nova

environment of this side of the island of Antigua, with its deep, narrow bays

Scotia where commercial aspects have been carefully woven into the historic

surrounded by highlands, offered shelter from hurricanes and was ideal for

atmosphere.

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The Lookout at Shirley Heights

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The Antigua Naval Dockyard “Nelson’s Dock Yard” a UNESCO site

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Emelda asked us if we would like to take the fast way back to the ship or the

converted into a church after an 1843 earthquake destroyed the nearby mother

slower way through the rain forest. Of course, we opted for the slow way, as we

church. Its green color is not paint, but rather the local green limestone. As we

wanted to see as much of the island as possible. However, the term “rain forest”

drove back to St. John’s, I told Emelda about my friend Cheryl in Chicago who is

was not as we had experienced it in St. Lucia. We did see tropical vegetation, but

from Antigua. When I texted Cheryl to tell her where we were, she answered

had no sense of a rain forest, since 90% of Antigua was deforested in pursuit of

that our guide may know her family and gave me a list of names, ending her

sugar cane. At Emelda’s suggestion, we stopped at a roadside fruit stand where

message with, “Geez, looks like I’m related to the entire island…” One of the

she picked out a black pineapple for us to enjoy. The signature fruit of Antigua,

names was Lake. Emelda said that she was a Lake from Freetown. Cynthia

the black pineapple is allegedly the sweetest variety there is, and unlike other

texted back that Rupert Lake was married to her Aunt Cynthia and that her

types, can be consumed to the core. We watched as the woman at the stand

daughter La Toya lives in St. Kitts. It turns out that Emelda knew Cheryl’s Aunt

(“Clemie”) deftly peeled and cut up our choice, giving us each a toothpick to

Cynthia and knew of La Toya, who had welcomed us to St. Kitts. Such a good

use as a utensil. Passing through the village of Liberta, we saw a quaint little

example of life on the islands and a perfect way to end our tour. We were back

green church on a hill and asked Emelda to stop. We learned that St. Barnabas

at the dock by 2:30 where we said good-by to Emelda. Hamburgers and beer—

Anglican Church was actually built as a school in the early 19th century and later

and ice cream—was our meal of choice after a full day.

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St. Thomas St. Thomas, together with St. John, Water Island, Hassel Island and St. Croix, form a district of the United States Virgin Islands (USVI), an unincorporated territory of the United States. The capital is Charlotte Amalie. The population of St. Thomas is 42,461. The district has a land area of 32 square miles, and is 13 mi x 4 mi. The island was originally settled c. 1500 BC by the Ciboney people. Christopher Columbus sighted the island in 1493 on his second voyage to the New World. The Dutch West India Company established a post on St. Thomas in 1657. In 1917, St. Thomas was purchased (along with the rest of the Virgin Islands) by the United States and citizenship was granted to the residents in 1927. In 1954, the islands became US territories. Full home rule was achieved in 1970.

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Saturday, December 4

Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

At 7:00am, the Serenity slipped into the harbor at Charlotte Amalie,

the back) we learned that St. Thomas is the only US territory where

capital city of St. Thomas. I watched from our veranda as we passed

the driving is on the left. As we drove through Charlotte Amalie, we

resorts and hotels tucked into the hillsides and docked next to a giant

saw an attractive town with impressive architecture. The island is quite

Señor Frog’s that looked a little worse for wear. At 9:00 Ann, Jake and I

hilly and we held on as we leaned into the hairpin curves that took us

mustered for today’s excursion, a mountain-top rum tasting. Boarding

up St. Peter Mountain, high over the city, with stunning views of the

an open-air safari bus (embellished by two heart-shaped windows in

Atlantic and Caribbean.

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We stopped at an overlook where vendors had set up stands selling local handicrafts. A fellow with a broad smile was enthusiastically playing the steel drum. I learned that his name is Darren Lawrence when he autographed a CD for me.

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Our guide showed us a sour sop tree (Annona muricata), said to have significant health benefits. He also pointed out Magens Bay, a heart shaped bay that was hard to define from our vantage point.

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Magens Bay

We ascended to Mountain Top where our rum tasting was preceded by a

explaining that we are supposed to drink from the bottom with the straw and

long walk through a giant gift shop to a table where various flavored Cruzan

then chase it with a sip from the top. I still did not like it—way too sweet. I

rums (distilled on St. Croix) were set out. We tried the world-famous banana

offered to share the photo I took of her; she was pleased with it and

daiquiri, mixed by Sharon from Dominica. She filled a glass with a slushy

immediately posted it to Facebook. After enjoying the spectacular view from

mixture of rum, bananas, coconut milk and sugar and topped it off with 137%

the balcony, we returned to the bus and rode back down to Charlotte Amalie,

Cruzan Hurricane Proof rum. She stopped us from stirring the concoction,

arriving at the ship just in time to avoid a sudden rainstorm.

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This afternoon we organized our bags for our departure tomorrow and later sat in the Sunset Lounge and watched the light change as we slipped out of the harbor. In the evening, Jake and I returned to Umi Uma for a table dinner from the menu. Ann decided that she’d had her fill of Japanese and opted for the Waterside. After a long meal, we were late for the show, but decided to drop in briefly for “Legends”—songs and dancing from the 1970s.

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Sunday, December 5

San Juan, Puerto Rico

The Crystal Serenity docked at the Port of San Juan this morning at 7:00. We joined Ann for our final breakfast at Waterside. After policing our stateroom, we had our key cards scanned for the last time, dropped off our Covid tracking devices, and disembarked. We collected our bags and met up with Ann in the terminal where we were guided down the exit corridor by Crystal staff members who secured a taxi for us. The Crystal experience had been exceptional right down to the end.

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A small woman heaved our bags into the back of a van and drove us to El

lucky one. Our room, on the top floor and off by itself, did not look anything like

Convento in Old San Juan, where we had stayed on our previous visit in 2010.

the charming place we remembered from our stay here before. But we didn't

Since we were arriving early, we were surprised that Jake and I were given a

give a lot of thought to it at the time, as we were all anxious to start our

room immediately, while Ann was not. We would soon realize that she was the

exploration of San Juan.

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El Convento

We met Ann in the lobby and the three of us took a taxi to the Museo de

driver who had brought us there. Clemente answered immediately and picked

Arte de Puerto Rico (MAPR) in the Santurce area of the city. Realizing that it

us up in no more than five minutes. We asked him to drive us through the art

would be difficult to explore the museum together, we decided to go our

district of Santurce so that we could see some of the street art and murals

own ways. We wandered through the museum’s 18 galleries that included

that rival Miami’s Wynwood district. As we drove along the causeway back to

three exhibitions and a permanent collection. An excellent introduction to the

Old San Juan, Clemente told me to have the video on my phone ready. He

art of the island, Puerto Rico Plural combined works of artists from different

slowed down so that I could record the length of an amazing installation,

generations, historical periods, and media, with the aim of showing the plurality

Infinite Remembrance to Doña Fela, a huge mosaic honoring the first woman

of Puerto Rican art from the eighteenth century to the present. The building,

mayor of San Juan. The work consists of 5,000 sq/ft of ceramic tile over

once part of a hospital, had been beautifully repurposed and we were

concrete. The project took a year to complete, with a total of 300,000 tile

impressed by all that we saw. After a couple of hours, Jake and I called the

pieces placed.

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Luis Munoz Lee Untitled (houses in San Juan) Omar Quinones Barriada Carlos Raquel Rivera Northern Hurricane Luis Abraham Ortiz Alphabet

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Jose Luis Vargas Albizu for Children Marta Perez Garcia The Governor Without a Nation Francisco Oller Still Life with Coconuts, 1890 Rafael Trelles Exodus II

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Enoc Perez Bacardi Carlos Irizarry Julia de Burgos Jose R. Oliver Still Life with Fried Egg and Avocados Jose Rosa Castellanos The Robbery (The TV)

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Jose Ruiz Taking a Walk at Christmas 48

Pepon Osorio No Crying Allowed in the Barber Shop 49

Garden of the MAPR

Santurce Art District 51

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Infinite Remembrance to Dona Fela

Clemente dropped us off at the Ballajá military barracks, completed in 1864 for Spanish troops. Located across from the Castillo San Felipe del Morro, the building occupies six city blocks. The Museo de Las Américas is on the second floor. The museum consists of several galleries, four of which were open today. One featured great puppet heads used in street performances; another exhibited a collection of erotic Pre-Hispanic art; a third was a small installation of the art of Gustavo Fuentes; and one was a colorful collection of the varied folk art of the Americas.

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Across from the barracks is the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, built in 1992 to honor the 500th anniversary of Columbus’s first voyage to the Americas. A totem pole of sorts soars above the plaza that appears to be frequented by teenagers on skateboards. We walked on to the Iglesia de San José, one of the earliest surviving examples of 16th century Spanish Gothic architecture. When we were in San Juan in 2010, this church was boarded up and appeared ready for demolition, but a beautiful restoration was just completed this year. Jake and I walked along Calle San Sebastian to Calle del Sol, getting a sense of the bar scene, and continued to El Jibarito where we had enjoyed those pina coladas on our last visit. Being early for dinner, we only had to wait a few minutes for a table; we could see that the restaurant was still very popular. Not everything improves with time, however, for we found that the drinks were far too sweet for our tastes now. Many people were ordering them for dessert—the server even asked us if we wanted them with rum. We unfortunately did not order well either, as both of our dinner choices were mistakes.

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When we were there in 2010 62

Monday, December 6

San Juan

It was a long night. The air conditioner blew directly on us and sounded like a

ask her about it. She did not speak any English, but demonstrated how she

dryer full of tennis shoes. There were several other issues that led Jake to

loved the plants and trees under her care. I later learned that her name is

arrange for us to move to another room. We met Ann for breakfast on the

Miriam and that she has worked at the hotel for many years. We said good-by

tree-lined hotel veranda. Over our coffee, we noticed a little sprite of a

to Ann after breakfast as she is flying back to Miami today. We agreed that

woman who was caring for the plants. She would carefully wrap her arms

our travel arrangements had worked well, for we enjoyed doing things

around each tree, and give it a little hug. We were intrigued, and I got up to

together but were comfortable going our own ways too.

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Jake and I crossed the street to the Catedral de San Juan, the second oldest

here. We followed Calle San Francisco to the Plaza de Armas, where we saw

church in the Western Hemisphere (after one in the Dominican Republic). The

that Christmas preparations were underway. We bought a lottery ticket from a

structure, built in 1540, is a rare example of medieval architecture during

vendor, although we are not quite sure how to claim our fortune. Near the

Spanish rule in the New World. Christmas decorations were being installed,

harbor, we stopped to admire the Art Deco Banco Popular building before

with ladders set up to decorate the trees. The Tomb of Ponce de Leon, which

proceeding along the promenade, passing a US Naval destroyer and a Coast

we had seen on our last visit, was covered with crumpled kraft paper which

Guard vessel; a Regent cruise ship was in port. Heading east, we found our way

appeared to be the backdrop for a creche. We walked down Calle del Cristo,

to La Casita de Rones. Built to serve the needs of the port, it was a tourist

looking into shop windows and taking pictures of the graffiti that was mostly

information center when we were last here, but has since become the House

contained in small framed areas. The Umbrella Street was closed off as

of Rums. We sat on the veranda at a high table under a fern-covered roof and

Christmas lights were being installed. We paused at the Capilla del Cristo, a

sipped cool drinks, gazing at the bar that displayed a large—and incongruous—

tiny sanctuary that has been taken over by pigeons since the last time we were

Frosty the Snowman that wished us Season’s Greetings.

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Catedral de San Juan 65

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We continued our wandering until we found ourselves at Nono’s, one of our

table. We wisely chose the sampler: a wooden pallet laden with tostones, arroz

mainstays during our last visit. We sat in the open window at the same table

con gandules, alcapurrias with yucca and plantains, empanadillas and roasted pig.

we had occupied so many years ago and watched as the owner created his

A side order of pasteles came with it. We asked for more sauce but Rashan,

own recipe of sangria that involved at least a dozen bottles of various

our Indian waiter, apologized that the sauce man hadn’t shown up. When we

ingredients. We watched as people came and went, getting drinks to go—it

went up to the bar to pay, we met Verna, the owner. She gave us a big smile,

appears to be legal to carry open alcohol on the street. A trio came in for shots

saying that it had been a crazy day. It was one of the best meals of our trip.

of Sambuca. “Good…but you have to be careful with your…” said one of

When we returned to the hotel, our bags had been moved to a room with the

them, tapping his temple. At Clemente’s suggestion, we decided to have dinner

18-ft. ceilings we had remembered from before. On the desk was a bottle of

at Deaverdura, a casual corner restaurant on Calle del Sol. Even though we

Cabernet Sauvignon and two glasses with a note wishing us a Happy

were early for dinner, we had to wait outside with about a dozen others for a

Anniversary.

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Tuesday, December 7

San Juan

We slept late and left for breakfast at 10:00, hoping to find La Bombonera where we had gone on our last visit. However, when we asked at the tourist office at the Plaza de Armas, we were told that it had closed. As we were wondering where we would go, we unexpectedly ran into Cynthia and John, our 1320 neighbors who live above us in Chicago. After we exchanged surprised greetings and posed for a group photo, they suggested a couple of places for us to try. We found the Carthage Express just down the street. It was a family-run establishment, with the owners’ children lined up quietly at tables near the back while their elders worked the kitchen. Jake tried Chakshouka Merguez, a spicy Tunisian dish with egg and sausage, while I eagerly ordered a mallorca, the sugar-sprinkled ham, cheese and egg sandwich I remembered. It was nothing like the one I’d had at La Bombonera.

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We walked past the Ballajá and up Calle del Morro to the Castillo San Felipe

sitting there chatting, a young man came up and asked if he could take a photo

del Morro. The flags were at half-mast in honor of long-time Kansas Senator

of us. He told us that his name was Luis and that he was a photojournalist from

Robert Dole who died two days ago. We wandered through the 16th century

Venezuela. I said that he could take our photo if I could take his and we

citadel before returning to our table in the window of Nono’s. While we were

AirDropped them to each other.

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At around 4:30, we walked up San Sebastian, this time realizing that the bar at

way he tasted his creation to make sure it was up to his standards, was a ballet of

#148 that we had passed several times before was, in fact, Factoría, the place we

sorts. I commented to Jake that while Otón, the other bartender, held bottles like

had been looking for. For several years, it has been on the list of the World’s 50

he was holding a baseball bat, Harry held them like he was holding a violin bow.

Best Bars. Coming in so early, we had the best seats in the house—in the center

We watched as Peligrosos and Mercado Romas and Hijos de Borinquens were

of the bar—and watched the bartender in action. We soon realized that Harry,

artfully created, while enjoying limey daiquiris ourselves. A progression of regulars

as he introduced himself, is not just a bartender, but an extraordinary performer.

came in or ordered drinks from the open window. We had a couple of fish tacos

The way he moved his hands, the way he handled the Boston shakers, even the

at Taberna Lupulo before making our way back to the hotel.

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La Factoria 85

Wednesday, December 8

San Juan and Chicago

We were able to extend our check out from the hotel to 12:30, giving us time

scanner. TSA Security was right in front of us, so we got in line, completely

to get something to eat and return to our room before we left for the airport.

forgetting that we still had all of our luggage with us. Bumping our way back out,

This morning we decided to try Cayo Caribe, suggested by Otón last night..

we located the Southwest desk and checked our large suitcases. The agent

While Jake had black rice and squid, I ordered a fish taco, which we washed

called me back when I forgot to get a claim ticket. Have we ever flown before?

down with Puerto Rican-style beer from Stevens Point, Wisconsin. We also

Once at the gate, we waited for our flight to Fort Lauderdale to be called.

tried a side order of mofongo, agreeing that a sample of this heavy dish was all

Although I had purchased Early Bird check-in and had a low number to board

we needed. By 12:25, we were downstairs at the hotel again, ready to check

the plane, we were bemused when more than 30 people in wheelchairs or

out. We had to wait a half hour to get a taxi, and were surprised that it was the

their attendants or family members all boarded first. Many of those using

same little woman who had picked us up from the port. Again, she hefted our

wheelchairs did not appear to need them: after the plane landed most did not

bags into the car before we could offer to help. In spite of our years of travel

wait to be picked up but just got off on their own. Since we had that interim

experience, we found the airport to be confusing—probably because the first

stop, we did not reach Chicago until 9:30; it was nearly 11:00pm by the time

thing required upon entering the terminal was to put all bags through a USDA

we pulled up at 1320.

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Caribbean Hearts

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The Faces of the Caribbean

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CRUISING THE CARIBBEAN Itinerary November 24 — December 8, 2021 NOVEMBER Wednesday 24

Thursday 25

Lyft to Midway (Marcellus) at 10:10 Activities: 20th Wedding Anniversary Depart: Midway International Airport, MDW, on Southwest Airlines Flight WN145 (Boeing 737-700) at 12:35 (on time); GEL: Boarding Group A54; SRH: Boarding Group A31; Seats 4B and 4C Snack: in flight Arrive: Miami International Airport, MIA, Terminal 3, Miami, Florida at 16:47: (land 16:15, gate 12 minutes late,) (1,200 air miles; 3 hours, 00 minutes) Lyft to Brody residence (Rolando) Dinner: Brody residence at 19:45 Ann Brody residence Brickell Bay Club, 2333 Brickell Avenue, Unit 2701, Miami; 312/ 543-4906 MIAMI, FLORIDA (Miami is Eastern Standard Time: 1 hour ahead of Chicago) Chicago: 45°F, partly cloudy Miami: 73°F, partly cloudy Breakfast: Brickell Bay Club Bodega at 10:15 Sites: Miami: Whole Foods; downtown area; Wynwood murals; Design District Lunch: Brody residence at 11:45 Activities: Thanksgiving Day Dinner: Brody residence at 16:45 with Ann Brody, Chipi Morales and Fernanda Legeren Brody residence MIAMI 74°F, partly cloudy 93

Friday 26

Breakfast: Sites: Miami: Coconut Grove; Vizcaya Museum and Gardens; Miami City Hall (former Pan Am building) at Dinner Key; Plymouth Congregational Church; Collins Avenue; Little Havana; Coral Gables: Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden; Venetian Pool; George Merrick home; Biltmore Hotel Dinner: Miami: Café La Trova (#28 in 2021 World’s 50 Best Bars) at 19:00 with Ann Brody Brody residence MIAMI 76°F, clear and sunny, not humid

Saturday 27

Breakfast: Sites: Miami Beach: Art Deco Historic District; South Beach; Ocean Drive; Espinoza Place; Lincoln Road; Versace Mansion Activities: Mazda dealership: battery maintenance Drinks: Miami Beach: Il Giardino at 14:45 with Ann Brody Dinner: Miami: CVI.CHE 105 at 19:00 with Ann Brody Brody residence MIAMI 76°F, clear and sunny, not humid

Sunday 28

Lyft from Brody residence (Miguel) to Cruise Terminal J, Port of Miami at 11;30 Crystal Cruises check-in and COVID testing from 12:00; boarded Crystal Serenity at 13:15; departure time 17:00 Crystal Serenity: Cruise “Seashells & Sunshine”; Deluxe Stateroom with Verandah: Stateroom 839; passengers: 355; crew/staff: 491 Drinks: Crystal Serenity: Crystal Cove at 14:45; Avenue Saloon at 16:45 Dinner: Crystal Serenity: Sushi Bar at Umi Uma at 18:30 with Ann Brody Activities: Crystal Serenity: Galaxy Lounge: “ Galaxy in Motion” at 21:15 Crystal Serenity: Horizon Deck (Deck 8); Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ CRUISING ATLANTIC OCEAN (Crystal Serenity in on Atlantic Standard Time: 1 hour ahead of Miami} 78°F, clear and sunny, not humid, small swells

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Monday 29

Breakfast: Trident Grill at 09:55 Lunch: Scoops Ice Cream Bar at 17:00 Activities: photography, iPhone and acupuncture presentations at Creative Learning Institute and Computer University Drinks: Sunset Bar at Palm Court at 17:30 Dinner: Silk Kitchen at 18:45 with Ann Brody Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ CRUISING ATLANTIC OCEAN 79°F, sunny, occasional clouds, small swells

Tuesday 30

Breakfast: Waterside at 08:30 Lunch: Waterside at 12:00 with Ann Brody Activities: photography and Photoshop Elements presentations at Creative Learning Institute and Computer University Drinks: Avenue Saloon at 19:00 Dinner: Prego at 20:30 with Ann Brody Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ CRUISING ATLANTIC OCEAN 80°F, sunny, occasional clouds, calm

DECEMBER Wednesday 1 Port: Pier One East, Port Zante, Basseterre, St Kitts: 08:00-18:00 Excursion: Crystal Destination Discovery excursion “Best of St Kitts”; minivan (20 passengers) guide Leroy: 08:45 to 13:45; 16 miles Sites: Basseterre: Independence Square; Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception; St. George’s Anglican Church; Ross medical and veterinary schools; Bloody Point; Romney Manor and Garden; Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park (UNESCO); Fairview Great House; Timothy Hill: view Frigate Bay Activities: met LaToya Lake-Marshall at Port Zante at 08:45 Shopping: Romney Manor: Caribelle Batik Studios: scarf; Port Zante: rum Drinks: Crystal Serenity: Crystal Cove at 14:15 Dinner: Crystal Serenity: Waterside at 19:45 Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ BASSETERRE, ST KITTS AND NEVIS 84°F, sunny, partly cloudy, small waves 95

Thursday 2

Port: Castries, St Lucia: at pier 08:00-18:00 Excursion: Crystal Destination Discovery shore excursion “Complete St Lucia”; minivan (18 passengers) guide Martha, driven by Kerwin: 08:45 to 17:30; 32 miles Sites: Castries: Fort Charlotte; Central Market Eastern Coast: Dennery Lookout South Coast & Vieux Fort: Moule a Chique lighthouse: view Vieux Fort and Bay; Balenbouche Estate Soufriere & The Pitons: Pitons Area (UNESCO); Sulfur Springs; Diamond Botanical Gardens and Falls; Soufriere; Marigot Bay Lunch: tour: Ladera Resort: Dasheen Restaurant at 13:30 Drinks: Crystal Serenity: Sunset Bar (Camela) at Palm Court at 18:30 Dinner: Crystal Serenity: Churrascaria at 20:00 with Ann Brody Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ CASTRIES, ST LUCIA 86°F, partly cloudy, occasional hazy, brief rain, small waves

Friday 3

Port: South Heritage Pier, St John’s, Antigua: at pier 08:00-18:00 Excursion: ToursByLocals: ”The Best of Antigua”; guided by Emelda Frank; private van (3 passengers): 08:50 to 14:30; 25 miles Sites: St John’s: Fort James Public Market; government buildings; Sir Vivian Richards Cricket Stadium Eastern Side: Betty’s Hope Plantation and Museum; Devil’s Bridge; Long Bay English Harbour; Shirley Heights; The Lookout; Nelson’s Dockyard (UNESCO); St Barnabas Church; Fig Tree Drive and Old Road: rain forest Activities: sample Antigua black pineapple Drinks: Crystal Serenity: Trident Grill at 16:30 Dinner: Crystal Serenity: Trident Grill at 17:30 Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ ST JOHN’S, ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA 85°F, humid, sunny, partly cloudy, calm

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Saturday 4

Breakfast: Crystal Serenity: Waterside at 08:00 Port: Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, U. S. Virgin Islands: at pier 08:00-18:00 Excursion: Crystal Destination Discovery shore excursion “St Thomas Panoramas & Mountain Top Rum Tasting”; open air coach (13 passengers); 10:00 to 12:10; 11 miles Sites: Charlotte Amalie: Skyline Drive; view St Thomas and adjacent islands; St Peter Mountain: Mountain Top: view Magen’s Bay Activities: St Thomas: Mountain Top: rum tasting; Crystal Serenity: Galaxy Lounge: “ Legends” at 21:15 Drinks: St Thomas: Mountain Top at 11:15; Crystal Serenity: Sunset Bar at Palm Court at 17:45 Dinner: Crystal Serenity: Umi Uma at 19:15 Crystal Serenity, Stateroom 8039 CRYSTAL SERENITY/ CHARLOTTE AMALIE, U. S. VIRGIN ISLANDS 83°F, humid, sunny, scattered showers, calm

Sunday 5

Breakfast: Crystal Serenity: Waterside at 08:00 with Ann Brody Port: Old San Juan: docked at Pier 4 East at 07:00; disembarked at 09:15 Distance transported on Crystal Serenity: 1,860 nautical miles Taxi to Hotel El Convento at 09:30 Sites: Santurce : Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico; Infinite Remembrance mosaic Old San Juan: Cuartel Ballaja (UNESCO); Museo de las Americas; Plaza del Quinto Centenario; Totem Telurico; Iglesia de San Jose; Calle San Sebastian; Calle del Sol Lyft to Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (Clemente) at 11:30 Lyft to Cuartel Ballaja (Clemente) at 13:30 Dinner: Old San Juan: El Jibarito at 16:30 Hotel El Convento: Queen Vista Room: Room 501 100 Cristo Street, OLD SAN JUAN, SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO 86°F, humid, clear and sunny, scattered showers

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Monday

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Tuesday

7

Breakfast: at Hotel El Convento at 09:00 with Ann Brody Sites: Catedral de San Juan Bautista; view La Forteleza (UNESCO); Capilla del Cristo; Plaza de Armas; Banco Popular; Old San Juan Harbor; Calle San Sebastian; Calle del Sol Drinks: Casita de Rones at 13:00; Nono’s bar at 14:45 Dinner: Deaverdura at 17:30 Hotel El Convento: Room 218 OLD SAN JUAN 87°F, humid, clear and sunny, occasional showers

Breakfast: Carthage Express at 10:30 Sites: Plaza de Armas; Galeria Botello; Castillo San Felipe del Morro (UNESCO), Cuartel Ballaja (UNESCO); Plaza San Jose Activities: met Cynthia and John Csernanski at Plaza de Armas Drinks: Nono’s bar at 14:00; La Factoria (#36 in 2018 World’s 50 Best Bars) at 16:15 Dinner: La Taberna Lupulo at 20:00 Hotel El Convento: Room 218 OLD SAN JUAN 88°F, humid, clear and sunny, occasional showers Wednesday 8 Lunch: Caja Caribe at 11:05 Taxi to San Juan International Airport at 13:00 Depart: San Juan International Airport, MJU, on Southwest Airlines WN3292 (Boeing 737-800) at 15:55 (on time); Seats 8B and 8C Ft Lauderdale is Eastern Standard Time: 1 hour behind San Juan Arrive: Ft Lauderdale International Airport, FLL, Ft Lauderdale, Florida at 17:40 (15 mins early); 1,052 air miles; 2 hours, 45 mins) Depart: Ft Lauderdale International Airport, FLL, on Southwest Airlines Flight WN5180 (Boeing 737-700) at 19:00 (on time); Seats 6A and 6C Chicago is Central Standard Time: 1 hour behind Ft Lauderdale Arrive: Midway International Airport, MDW, Chicago, Illinois at 21:10 (on time); (1,258 air miles; 3 hours, 10 minutes) Lyft to 1320 North State Parkway (Mohammed) at 22:30 CHICAGO San Juan: 86°F, humid, clear and sunny; Chicago: 27°F, partly cloudy 98

Crystal Serenity (Completed St Nazaire, France: June 30, 2003; Redesign: November, 2018; Length: 820 ft; Beam: 106 ft; Draught: 26 ft; Tonnage; 68,870 GT; Speed: 24 mph; Capacity: 980 passengers: crew: 655 Restaurants Waterside: Deck 5; Traditional and Modern: Breakfast: 07:30-09:30, Lunch: 12:00-13:30, Dinner: 18:00- 21:30: open seating, set tables The Bistro: Deck 6; bistro fare and wines: all day and late, open seating, casual Stardust Club: Deck 6; specialty dining, live music, dancing The Vintage Room: Deck 7; complimentary wine tastings; private wine dinners; Dinner only: 18:30-22:00; reservations required, set tables Umi Uma & Sushi Bar: Deck 7; Japanese-Peruvian; Dinner only: 18:30-22:00; reservations required, set tables Prego: Deck 7; Italian; Dinner only 18:30-22:00; reservations required, set tables Marketplace and Churrascaria: Deck 12; Global: Breakfast: 07:00-10:00; Lunch: 12:00-13:30; (Dinner 18:30-22:00: Brazilian steakhouse): open seating, casual Silk Kitchen & Bar: Deck 12; Chinese; Breakfast: 07:00-10-00, Lunch: 12:00-13:30; open seating, casual; Dinner: 18:30-22:00; reservations required Palm Court: Deck 12; afternoon tea: 16:00; reservations required; evening cocktails and dancing Scoops Ice Cream Bar: Deck 12; ice cream and cookies, from 11:30 to 18:00, open seating, casual Trident Grill: Deck 12; Breakfast 10:00 to11:00; burgers, salads, wraps to 18:00; dinner: 18:00-21:00; open seating, casual In-suite: one’s stateroom; 24 hours: Waterside’s menu Drinks Deck 5; Crystal Cove: cocktails, piano; adjacent Waterside Deck 6; Avenue Saloon; The Bistro; Connoisseur Club: cigars and cognac; Pulse Nightclub: late-night dancing Deck 12; Sunset Bar: at Palm Court, dancing; Trident Bar Activities Deck 6; Stardust Club: supper club, dancing; Galaxy Lounge: Broadway productions, entertainers; Hollywood Theatre: movies; Resort World Casino: casino; Stardust Club: lectures; table tennis; putting green; Deck 7; The Studio: Creative Learning Institute; Computer University; Library; Bridge Lounge Deck 8; shuffle board Deck 12; Seahorse Pool: pool, Jacuzzis; recliners Deck 13; Crystal Life Spa and Salon; Fitness Center; Sun Deck; paddle tennis 99

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a Caribbean cruise from November 24December 8, 2021. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, © 2021.V.2 100