2019 England & Wales 2

Priories, Parishes & Pubs 2 A Driving Tour in England and Wales

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip with George Leonard through England and Wales from September 19-October 3, 2019. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2019 Cover: All Saints Church, Sutton Benger

Priories, Parishes & Pubs a Driving Tour in England and Wales September 19—October 3, 2019

The second week of our abbreviated driving trip, exploring the churches and cathedrals of England and Wales and staying in pubs and small inns.

Vol. 2 1

Church of St. Andrew, Mells

Friday, September 27

to Barnsley, Gloucestershire

A rare aspect of St. Andrew Church in Mells is its location down a medieval street contemporary with the 15th century rebuilding of the church. Thus, our approach looked much as it would have to worshippers 500 years ago. A lorry driver who was backing down the street (so, no, it wasn’t exactly the same) stopped to tell me that he

had gone to school in the medieval building he was just passing. The church is decorated with works by Edward Burne-Jones, Edwin Lutyens, and Eric Gill, including a memorial by Burne-Jones, featuring a peacock, to Laura Lyttleton, who died in childbirth shortly after her marriage. The small porch features elaborate fan vaulting.

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Parish Church of All Saints, Lullington

At Lullington, we asked for the key to All Saints Church from the man next door who happily obliged. We really didn’t need it, however, as the church was full of workmen putting the finishing touches on the releading and repair of a large Victorian stained-glass window. The earliest parts of the church date from the 12th century, with wonderful

Norman elements, including a decorated font covered with green mentype monsters and bearing an inscription that translates as, “In the sacred washing of the font sins are cleansed.” The gem of the church is its ornate north doorway that encloses a tympanum of two animals eating from the Tree of Life while Christ in Majesty sits above.

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I dropped the key into the neighbor’s mailbox and we continued on our way to Wiltshire and the Church of St. John in Devizes. We found the church at the end of a medieval lane, framed by an old gate and lantern. The door was locked, but since we could hear someone playing the organ inside, assumed that we could get in. I asked several people about a key but with no success; our visit was not to be.

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Church of St. John Devizes

Our timing at the Church of All Saints in Sutton Benger was better.

Although we arrived as a funeral was about to begin, we were able to step in to revisit the fantastic green man that graces a corbel in the south aisle. It is dated from the late thirteenth century but its detail and quality

suggest that it might have been re-fashioned during renovations in 1851.

The forward gaze of the Sutton Benger green man is melancholy and wise and I was once again struck by its power. Outside, we took our time photographing four other green men tucked under the eaves.

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All Saints Church, Sutton Benger

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At Malmesbury Abbey, we delighted in the remarkable examples of Anglo-Norman art that grace the south porch. Reminding us of the Gislebertus Dream of the Magi that we saw at Autun in France, the figurative carvings of six apostles and an angel on each side are rich with movement and emotion. Over the doorway, Christ in Majesty sits on a rainbow and is attended by angels. The interior of the church is a fascinating mix of styles, from Saxon to Gothic. The 10th century tomb

of King Athelstan, first king of the Britons, is one of the Abbey’s greatest possessions. A collection of superb illuminated manuscripts from the library was on display in cases in the south aisle. I enjoyed talking to Ann and Janet, stewards who told us of the pleasure they get from showing off the Abbey to visitors. Ann said that she loves it when someone comes in expecting to see a ruin and discovers instead the glorious interior filled with treasures.

Malmesbury Abbey

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The eastern wall of the porch: An angel blesses six apostles. St. Paul, with his characteristic bald forehead and long beard, is seated on the far left. He leans back as he turns towards the vision of the Almightly. One apostle bends his head in meditation. The second and third and fifth and sixth figures appear to be in conversation. Several of the figures have crossed their ankles, enlivening the composition.

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The western wall of the porch: An angel blesses these apostles. St. Peter, holding his key, is seated on the far right, nearest to the Almightly. His feet may have been knocked off to discourage pilgrims from kissing them. Only St. Peter stares straight ahead. Like the eastern sculpture, one apostle bends his head in meditation. Here there are also two pairs talking together, the fist and second, and fourth and fifth.

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King Athelstan, d. 939 AD

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Church of St. Mary, Fairford

The sun came out just as we arrived in Fairford, illuminating the Church of St. Mary with a golden glow. From the little gravestone of Tiddles, the church cat, to the delightful misericords (that we had to view with a flashlight), to the expressive faces in the medieval glass, we agreed with Jenkins that “Fairford is one of England’s outstanding galleries of art.”

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As we were walking back to the car, Jake spotted the shop of Jake Sutton, bespoke clockmaker, across the street. After admiring the clock in the window and noting a sign that said, NO REPAIRS UNDERTAKEN, we decided to try the bell. We were pleased when the door opened and a smiling gentleman invited us in. He asked us if we would like to see his

operation and seemed delighted by our interest. Mr. Sutton explained that he had started as an artist and that he makes every part of his clocks, from works to cabinet—including the screws. He even taught himself to etch the clock face. He proudly told us that his clocks are accurate to ten seconds a year. With the calibration necessary to proper function, he only sells to buyers in the U.K. He took us through several rooms that were ordered and immaculate. The only thing I saw out of place was a halffinished cup of tea. He only makes two clocks a year, spending more than 1000 hours on each. We appreciated his giving us his time, knowing that we would not be customers. As we departed, he kissed me on both cheeks and shook Jake’s hand.

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Bibury

From Fairford we drove through a series of attractive Cotswold towns to Bibury, once dubbed by William Morris as “The Most Beautiful Village in England.” Its chief attraction is Arlington Row, line of vinecovered stone weavers’ cottages that were built in 1380. The homes and shops that line the road nearby reflect the look of Arlington Row, attracting tourists seeking the authentic “Olde Englande.” We parked and walked over the little bridge to the neat row of cottages, noting numerous visitors from counties far from Europe. Three miles on we reached Barnsley, where we have rooms over the Village Pub, a traditional Cotswold inn directly on the road. Contrary to its name, it offers a sophisticated menu and upscale rooms. We sat in wing chairs at a corner table and enjoyed dinner in a room filled with congenial activity.

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Saturday, September 28 There was a nip of fall in the air as we pulled away from the pub and drove to Cirencester to visit the “cathedral of ‘wool gothic,’” as Jenkins refers to the Church of St. John the Baptist. The church was founded in the 12th century upon the remains of the longest Saxon church in England and was the joint project of the town and the abbey that subsisted on the wool market. Today, the church is tucked comfortably among shops on the high street. A steward showed us a unique treasure of Cirencester: a silver gilt cup belonging to Anne Boleyn, from which she took her final communion. He also pointed out Satan depicted in the stained glass over the altar. When you move closer to the cross, Satan disappears.

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to Kilpeck, Herefordshire

Church of St. John the Baptist Cirencester

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Gloucester Cathedral

We were next on our way to Gloucester’s Cathedral of St. Peter and the Holy and Indivisible Trinity. It originated in 678 with an abbey dedicated to St. Peter. What is most striking about this small cathedral is the tunnel-like Norman nave with its massive capitals juxtaposed with

the space and light of the Perpendicular south transept. We wandered through the choir, marveling at the carved misericords as well as the colorful stitched cushions that topped each one. In the lacey fan-vaulted cloister, I found a number of green men.

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St. Mary’s Church, Deerhurst

We drove into the countryside to Deerhurst to visit St. Mary’s Church, once an Anglo-Saxon monastery. As Jenkins notes, the church is a museum of styles from nearly every period of English architecture, displaying the herringbone pattern of a Saxon wall, a Perpendicular clerestory above a

row of Tudor windows, and a series of Early Gothic arcades with differing capitals. Outside, following a series of signs around to the back, we found the footings of a Saxon apse. An arrow guides the gaze upwards to a 10th century angel, carved high up on the wall.

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Tewkesbury Abbey

Our visit to Tewkesbury Abbey, one of England’s most splendid churches, was unfortunately abbreviated by a wedding in progress. When we entered, we were guided to several rows of chairs set out for stray visitors. Wandering through the church was out of the question. We watched the service for a few minutes and I took some pictures of the bosses over my head before we quietly departed. In spite of our disappointment, we were pleased that so many of the churches we’ve visited are still active, as illustrated by the harvest celebration, a baptism, two funerals, and the wedding that we had so far encountered.

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St. Michael and All Saints Church Castle Frome

Setting the GPS for Ledbury, we were instead directed to St. Michael and All Saints Church of Castle Frome, out of the way and not on our list. Jenkins gives it a single star. In planning our itinerary, Jake had decided to skip it, feeling that we had enough to see today. However, we were very glad that we had been guided to this small Norman church. We had obviously just missed another wedding, as remnants of flowers were scattered on the floor and a few programs lay about, welcoming us to

the union of Rebecca and Thomas. The church’s treasure is its Romanesque font, depicting the four Evangelists in their anthropomorphic guises, and the Baptism of Christ, with God’s hand reaching towards him from heaven and the dove of the Holy Ghost pecking at his head. It was remarkable, especially when one considers that the work was created in the 12th century without the benefit of modern tools.

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Church of St. Michael, Ledbury

We eventually found the church at Ledbury by following a series of medieval lanes. Although there was a church on the spot before the Domesday Book of 1086, the current church dates to the 12th century.

Its impressive tower is not connected to the church. Of particular

interest were several fine monuments to members of prominent local families, most impressive of which was a memorial to Elizabeth and Edward Skinner and their ten children. Between them is their baby who died in infancy.

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Church of St. Mary & St. David Kilpeck

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It was dusk by the time we reached Kilpeck, and we went first to the Church of St. Mary and St. David, a two-minute walk from the Kilpeck Inn where we are staying this evening. A soft rain was falling and cows were lowing in the surrounding pasture. We were alone as we paused by the south door, a masterpiece of the Herefordshire School, to marvel at the magnificent sandstone carvings, just as we had back in 2002.

Turning the metal ring, we pushed open the heavy door and stepped

inside in the semi-darkness. Consisting only of a small nave, chancel, and apse, the church has no aisles or tower. Narrow wooden steps lead to a balcony. Carvings cover the chancel arch and carved heads join in a boss over the apse. Kilpeck is just as magical as we remembered. We have a cozy room at the Inn and enjoyed good food and local brew in the pub below, made more festive by a lively 60th birthday celebration at the next table.

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Sunday, September 29

to Penarth, Glamorgan, Wales

We returned to Kilpeck Church for another look before continuing to the Church of St. Michael in Garway. We found ourselves off the grid and the GPS was not helpful as we negotiated the narrow hedgerowlined roads, made more challenging by linesmen working alongside their big trucks. However, everyone was patient and we inched our way along

with smiles and waves. One of six English churches built by the Knights Templar, Garway retains the most substantial remains of any. Its tower is extant, dating from 1180. Inside, the Norman chancel has a substantial arch with zig-zag molding, and there is a green man creature in one of the capitals that actually looks more like a green cat.

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Church of St. Michael Galway

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We continued through Monmouth to Tintern Abbey along winding roads. The GPS continued to cut out, reminding us that we were in remote territory. As we drove, we noticed that oncoming cars were flicking their headlights at us and we wondered what lay ahead until

we came across a large area of flooded road. Tintern Abbey was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks. Today, we found the ruins of this magnificent abbey to be particularly bleak in the grey drizzle; mudpuddles created a hazard in the grass.

Tintern Abbey

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We proceeded to Chepstow to see our first of the great castles of Wales. Chepstow, perched high above the banks of the river Wye, was begun in 1067 and is the oldest surviving post-Roman stone fortification in Britain. We continued to Caerphilly to see the second largest castle in Britain. It was constructed in the 13th century and is surrounded by an extensive system of artificial lakes which served as elaborate water defenses. In Cardiff, we found the castle within the Civic Center complex, along with City Hall and the University. It was 3:00 when we reached Penarth, where we are staying in rooms over the Michelinstarred Restaurant James Sommerin overlooking Cardiff Bay. We had some difficulty finding a place to park but after making three circuits,

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found a place by the front door. Unfortunately, we then learned that an unusual tidal surge was forecast and that it would be prudent to move the car to higher ground. Our dinner reservations were at 7:00 when we enjoyed a six-course tasting menu served by James Sommerin’s daughter and other members of his staff. We found him to be very congenial as he came by our table to discuss wines, gins, our various courses, and his work. He told us that although his staff is almost entirely British and he tries to buy locally-sourced seafood, meats, and vegetables when he can, Brexit will undoubtedly negatively impact his procurement of wines and other products. He said that prices will necessarily rise—they already have.

Chepstow Castle

Caerphilly Castle

Cardiff Castle Complex

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Monday, September 30

to Aberaeron, Pembrokeshire

We slept well in our small room above the restaurant, waking up to a calm and cloudy morning. Stormy weather was forecast all over Wales for the next couple of days but there was no sign of the threatening tide other than the sandbags that had been piled against doorways of the buildings along the esplanade. After breakfast at the restaurant, we were on our way to Llantwit Major in the Vale of Glamorgan to see the church and former monastery of St. Illtud, located at the site of the oldest college in the United Kingdom, dating from c. 395 A.D. The

Jesse Tree 62

current church was built by the Normans in the 11th century and is one of the oldest parish churches in Wales. It is home to a collection of carved Celtic stones from the 9th and 10th centuries that recently were moved to a chapel on the west end of the building. Although the stones are now preserved from the elements, we were sorry that we couldn’t have seen them in situ. Within the church, medieval wall paintings and a carved Jesse Tree niche have been preserved, giving St. Illtud its unique look.

Church of St. Illtud Llantwit Major

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Ewenny Priory Brigend

Ewenny Priory was built as a Benedictine monastery, founded in the 12th century. With its military defenses, it is regarded as one of the finest fortified churches in Britain. Its interior was made famous by the 1797 painting by J. M. W. Turner, who was fascinated by the church when he toured Wales three years earlier. Seeing the building from among the moldering tombstones in the uneven churchyard left an impression that

has stayed with me. As we left the church, we picked up a card for Ewenny Pottery, the oldest in Wales. It was founded in 1610 and has operated through eight generations of the Jenkins family. Since it was only a short drive away, we stopped in and bought a small canister and a bowl from a woman who was throwing pots. She seemed happy for the interruption and wiped her hands to wrap up our choices.

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As we drove through Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, we continued to struggle with the GPS that kept wanting to send us on back roads that were closed due to flooding. It seems that the further west we go, the more rain we encounter. What would have been spectacular views along the way were obscured by fog and rain. Our drive took us through a number of small villages lined by rows of colored stucco and stone houses to St. Davids, the most westerly point of Wales. The monastic community there was founded around 650 A.D. and for more than a millennium it was the heart of Christian Wales. Although it seems remote today, it had a strategic location when it was founded, easily accessible to Ireland and the Welsh coast. As we

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walked towards the cathedral, it appeared dark and solitary in the mist and rain, its massive Romanesque exterior appearing almost malevolent.

But inside, the impressive Norman bays and elaborately carved wooden roof, accented by a magnificent pulpitum that divides the nave from the monastic east end, inspired awe. I think we explored every nook and I was rewarded with a number of heart images and an excellent green man on one of the misericords. It was a 90-minute drive to Aberaeron; it would have been longer but we continued to ignore the GPS and its infuriating suggestions that we turn onto minor roads. We are staying at the Harbourmaster Inn where our room has an interesting view over the harbor wall.

St. Davids Cathedral

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Tuesday, October 1

to Beaumaris, Anglesey

At breakfast this morning, we made the acquaintance of a gentleman who sat down at the table next to ours. He introduced himself as Alwyn Parry, and from the beginning, we knew that he was very proud of his Welsh heritage. As a matter of fact, he showed us a children’s book that he had written and illustrated about being Welsh.

We asked him to say something in Welsh and he recited the name of a place on the island of Anglesey with the longest name in Britain: Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (aka Llanfair PG). We delightedly recorded him saying it.

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St. Padarn, Llanbadarn Fawr

19th century drawings of the pre-Christian Celtic standing stones at St Padarn's Church 79

Our first church today was St. Padarn in Llanbadarn Fawr, founded in the 6th century as a clas or monastic center. Since 1538 it has been a parish church. We entered through an impressive doorway, an early Gothic composition with multiple shafts decorated with stiff-leaf capitals. In 2014, the church underwent ÂŁ100,000 worth of repairs, which we found both surprising and satisfying, given the number of

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churches we’ve visited that are suffering from diminishing congregations and lack of financial support. We were particularly impressed by the ornate tile floor, which has been beautifully restored and was just completed this year. In a separate area in the south transept were two ancient carved stone crosses that date from the 10th century.

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We drove through Snowdonia National Park, where we again encountered stunning views. We turned off at Machynlleth to the Corris Craft Centre, located in a UNESCO World Biosphere. There we found the Dyfi Distillery in a small building at the back of the complex. It was surprising that the award-winning gin we had sampled at Sommerin’s was made in this rather modest place. Only opened in 2016, Dyfi 82

(pronounced, as close as I hear it, “Dovey”) has already won awards as the Best New Gin and the Best British Gin (twice). Owner Sue Cameron walked us through the process, showing us the various hand-picked botanicals that go into Pollination, the gin I had enjoyed the other evening. Although their newest addition, Navigation, was being bottled as we watched, it was not yet available for purchase.

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Continuing our drive through dramatic scenery, we reached Brithdir where we found the lonely Church of St. Mark hidden in an overgrown wood. The sign outside the door noted that St. Mark’s Brithdir is overseen by the Friends of Friendless Churches. Although the church is a remarkable example of Arts and Crafts, its state of disrepair made me sad. Jenkins calls it “a looming structure of Transylvanian gloom.” His assessment might be a bit hyperbolic, but it certainly was not an uplifting

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place, in spite of its charming details—carvings of small animals tucked into the choir stalls, hearts hidden in the leaded glass and roof straps, and stunning hammered copperwork. Commissioned by Louisa Tooth in memory of her husband, the church was designed by British architect Henry Wilson and completed in 1898. In spite of peeling paint and water damage, the interior decoration and fittings are arguably the most complete Arts and Crafts work in Wales.

Church of St. Mark Brithdir

Harlech Castle a UNESCO site

Harlech Castle, set high on a spur of rock close to the Irish Sea, is a UNESCO-designated fortification built by Edward I during his invasion of Wales between 1282 and 1289. A patch of blue greeted us as we approached and the sun illuminated the grey sandstone of the castle walls.

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Caernarfon Castle a UNESCO site

Caernarfon Castle is deemed the mightiest of Edward I’s “Iron Ring.” We entered through the King’s Gate, ranking as one of the most fearsome gatehouses in Wales. The interior is set around two great courts, with impressive octagonal turrets displaying flapping Welsh flags.

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The weather deteriorated as we followed the coast and crossed the 1826 Menai Suspension Bridge to the island of Anglesey. We proceeded past Beaumaris to St. Seiriol Priory in Penmon. The wind blew and the rain came down in sheets; the road along the coast was covered with

seaweed, sand, and rocks, as the area had recently flooded. We missed our turnoff to the church but, negotiating a flooded mud track, managed to turn around. We found the church behind a wall and surrounded by brush. At first, we feared that the church might be locked in the stormy weather but our relief that the handle turned faded as we felt around in the darkness for a light switch. I eventually found one, but nothing happened. We crept in, feeling our way, wary of unseen steps. Slowly, a dim light came on; it was enough for us to make out the walls of the Norman stonework in the church, particularly the tower arch with its chevron and chequerboard patterns. In the ancient transept, we found a fine sheela-na-gig high on the wall. The site is a remarkable evocation of medieval Christianity and a place of peace. Jake stayed in the car while I returned for a quiet moment, leaving payment for two small hand-carved crosses in the little honor-box. Dusk was settling as we drove back to Beaumaris and parked near the Bull, a cozy coaching inn where we are staying this evening.

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St. Seiriol Priory Penmon

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Wednesday, October 2

to Chester, Cheshire Beaumaris Castle a UNESCO site

The sun was shining this morning as we visited the third of Edward I’s grand castles before leaving town. Although never finished, Beaumaris Castle, a UNESCO site, was intended to be a showplace, a palace built for comfort rather than defense. It is said to have been “The greatest castle never built.”

We found its russet walls beautifully reflected in the glassy moat.

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Conwy Castle a UNESCO site

We returned to the mainland and drove to Conwy Castle, the fourth of the UNESCO-designated castles on our itinerary. Commissioned by Edward I in 1283, Conwy is considered one of the finest examples of 13th century fortification in Europe. The rectangular castle is built from local stone and occupies a coastal ridge, originally overlooking an important crossing point over the River Conwy.

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We reached the attractive town of Chester in the early afternoon, too early to check into the Edgar House where we are spending our last night in England. Our host, Catherine, showed us around this small inn on the river and served us tea in the sitting room. Once in our room, we spent the evening cancelling our reservations for the remainder of our trip and arranging for our return to the US. Then followed our long drive back to London Heathrow, the return of the rental car to Avis, and our flight home to Chicago.

And so we abruptly come to the end of our trip.

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Faces of England and Wales

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Itinerary Thursday

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Depart: O’Hare International Airport, ORD, Terminal 1 on United Airlines

Monday

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Breakfast: The Nobody Inn

Flight UA 931 (Boeing 767-300) at

Activities: Plymouth: Black Friars Distillery

18:25 (on time); Seats 25A and B;

Sites: St Germans, Cornwall: Church and priory of St Germanus

EN ROUTE TO LONDON, ENGLAND

St Neot: Church of St Neot Fowey: Fore Street

Friday

20 Arrive: Heathrow International Airport, LHR, Terminal 2, London, at 08:20

Drinks: The Refectory Bar, Black Friars Distillery, Plymouth

Heathrow Airport: Avis auto rental: 11:00 delivery at Terminal 4: manual

Lunch: Eliot Arms, St Germans

transmission Suzuki Vitara SUV

Dinner: Q Restaurant (in Old Quay Hotel)

Winchester, Hampshire: Cathedral of The Holy Trinity, St Peter, St Paul

The Old Quay House Hotel: Classic Double Room; Room: 8

and St Swithun; St Cross Almshouse: Church and Hospital

28 Fore Street, Fowey

Dinner: Wykeham Arms

FOWEY, Cornwall

50°-65°;

rain

101 miles

Wykeham Arms: Luxury Double; Room: STREET Tuesday

75 Kingsgate Street, Winchester WINCHESTER, Hampshire

60°-75°; clear, sunny

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Breakfast: The Old Quay House Sites: South Cornwall Coast

57 miles

Marazion; view St Michael’s Mount Saturday

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Breakfast: Wyckeham Arms

Penwith Peninsula: Penzance

Sites: Romsey: Abbey of St Mary and St Ethelflaeda

Land’s End: tourist complex

Salisbury, Wiltshire: Cathedral of The Blessed Virgin Mary; Cathedral Close

St Just: Botallack Mine (UNESCO): Crown Engine Houses

Sherborne, Dorset: Abbey of St Mary

Zennor: Church of St Senara

Cerne Abbas: Giant

St Ives: Fore Street

Plush: Church of St John the Baptist

Padstow: harbor

Dinner: Brace of Pheasants

Drinks: The First & Last Inn, Sennen

Brace of Pheasants: Double-Ensuite in Main Building; Room: 6

Dinner: The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow

Plush, 8 miles N of Dorchester

Rick Stein’s Cafe: Snug Room; Room: Fennel

PLUSH, Dorset

55°-75°; clear, sunny, overcast late

110 miles

Middle Street, Padstow PADSTOW, Cornwall

Sunday

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136 miles

Breakfast: Brace of Pheasants Activities: avoiding 2019 Ironman 70.3 Weymouth triathalon

Wednesday

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Breakfast: Rick Stein’s Cafe

Sites: Luppitt, Devon: Church and former monastery of St Mary

Sites: Kilkhampton: Church of St James

Ottery St Mary: Collegiate Church of Ottery St Mary

Morwenstow: Church of St John the Baptist

Exeter: Cathedral of St Peter

Hartland, Devon: Devon Coast Path; Church of St Nectan

Dartmoor National Park

Exmoor National Park

Doddiscombleigh: Church of St Michael

Porlock, Somerset, Minehead

Dinner: The Nobody Inn

Dinner: The Bar & Lounge (in Luttrell Arms)

The Nobody Inn: King-Premium-Ensuite; Room: 4

Luttrell Arms: Superior Double Room; Room: 33

Doddiscombleigh: 8 miles SW of Exeter

32-36 High Street, Dunster

DODDISCOMBLEIGH, Devon 55°-70°; overcast, rain, sun 96

55°-65°; mostly rain

106 miles

DUNSTER, Somerset

55°-65°; rain, overcast 142 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Psalter’s Restaurant (in Luttrell Arms)

Sunday

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Breakfast: Kilpeck Inn

Sites: Dunster: High Street; Church of St George; Castle, Yarn Market

Sites: Garway: Church of St Michael

Stogursey: Church and former priory of St Andrew

Monmouth, Monmouthshire: Monnow Bridge

Glastonbury: ruins of St Dunstan Abbey

Tintern: ruins of Tintern Abbey

Wells: Cathedral of St Andrew; Vicar’s Close; Bishop’s Palace

Chepstow: Chepstow Castle

Shepton Mallet: Church of St Peter and St Paul

Caerphilly, Glamorgan: Caerphilly Castle

Dinner: Holcombe Inn

Cardiff, Cardiff: Cardiff Castle; Civic Center

Holcombe Inn: King Luxury; Room: Hunters

Penarth: Esplanade, Cardiff Bay

Stratton Road, Holcombe

Dinner: Restaurant James Sommerin

HOLCOMBE, Somerset

55°-65°;

rain, part sun

70 miles

Restaurant James Sommerin: Double Room; Room: 5 The Esplanade, Penarth

Friday

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Breakfast: Holcombe Inn

PENARTH, WALES, Glamorgan 45°-60°; , rain, some sun

104 miles

Activities: Fairford, Jake Sutton, Clockmaker Sites: Mells: Church of St Andrews

Monday

Devizes, Wiltshire: Church of St John; Wadworth Brewery

Brigend: Ewenni Priory; Ewenni Pottery

Sutton Benger: Church of All Saints

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

Malmesbury: The Abbey

St David’s: Cathedral of St David; Cathedral Close

Fairford, Gloucestershire: Church of St Mary

Aberaeron: harbor

Bibury

Dinner: Harbourmaster

Dinner: The Village Pub

Harbourmaster: King Room: Room: 1 (Gwalia)

The Village Pub: Smart Pub Room: Room 2 (Crocus)

Quay Par, Aberaeron

Barnsley

ABERAERON, Pembrokeshire 55°-65°;

rain, part sun

50°-65°;

rain, flooding

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Breakfast: Harbourmaster

Breakfast: The Village Pub

Activities: Machynlleth: The Dyfi Distillery

Sites: Cirencester: Church and former abbey of St John the Baptist

Sites: Llanbadarn Fawr: Church of St Padarn

Gloucester: Cathedral of St Peter and the Holy Trinity

Snowdonia National Park, Powys

Deerhurst: Church and former monastery of St Mary; Odda’s Chapel

Brithdir: Church of St Mark

Tewkesbury: Abbey of St Mary

Harlech: Harlech Castle (UNESCO)

Ledbury, Herefordshire: Church of St Michael

Caernarfon: Caernarfon Castle (UNESCO); Town Walls

Castle Frome: Church of St Michael

Isle of Anglesey, Anglesey: Menai Bridge

Kilpeck: Church of St Mary and St David

Penmon: St Seiriol Priory

Dinner: Kilpeck Inn

Dinner: Coach (in The Bull)

Kilpeck Inn: Luxury Double Room: Room Monnow

The Bull: Standard Double; Room: Mr Pickwick

Kilpeck KILPECK, Herefordshire

183 miles

80 miles Tuesday

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Breakfast: Restaurant James Sommerin Sites: Llantwit Major: Church and former monastery of St Illtud

BARNSLEY Gloucestershire Saturday

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Lullington: Church of All Saints

Castle Street, Beaumaris 50°-60°; overcast, rain

103 miles

BEAUMARIS, Anglesey

50°-65°; rain, occasional sun

130 miles 97

Wednesday

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Thursday

Breakfast: Coach (in The Bull) Sites: Beaumaris: Beaumaris Castle (UNESCO) Conwy, Clwyd: Conwy Castle (UNESCO); Town Walls; Conwy Crossing Suspension Bridge

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Activities: Heathrow Airport: return rental car Lunch: Ca'puccino Italian Restaurant, Heathrow Airport Terminal 2 Depart: Depart: Heathrow International Airport, LHR, Terminal 2, on United Airlines Flight UA959 (at 14:50 (on time) Arrive O’Hare International Airport, ORD, Terminal 5, Chicago, at 17:30

Chester, Cheshire: City Walls Dinner: Twenty 2 (in Edgar House)

CHICAGO

45°-55°;

overcast

Total miles driven on trip

1,617 miles

Edgar House: Superking Double; Room: Garden Terrace 7 22 City Walls, Chester CHESTER, ENGLAND, Cheshire

98

45°-60°; sunny, clouds 74 miles

221 miles

99

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip with George Leonard through England and Wales from September 19-October 3, 2019. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2019 100