2016 Caucasus & Central Asia 4

The Caucasus & Central Asia 4

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through the Caucasuses and Central Asia from September 4-October 16, 2016. Volume 4. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2016 Cover: Turabek Hanym Mausoleum, Kunya Urgench

The Caucasus & Central Asia October 7-October 16, 2016 A conHnuaHon of our six-week trip to the countries of the South Caucasus and Central Asia.

AKer transiHng through Istanbul, we spent three weeks in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.

Allah made the Türkmens prolific and their numbers greatly increased. God gave them two special qualiEes: spiritual richness and courage. As a light for their road, God also strengthened their spiritual and mental capacity with the ability to recognize the realiEes behind events.

—Saparmurat Niyazov in The Rukhnama, 2001

Volume 4 Central Asia

Friday, October 7

to Mary, Turkmenistan

A"er checking out of the Salom Inn and leaving our suitcases in Raisa’s care, we met our driver, Rafgat, just a"er 8:00 for the 100 km drive to the Turkmenistan border. At 9:40, he dropped us at the gate of the border crossing at Farap, as far as he could take us. A"er flipping through our passports, the guard pointed us in the direcIon of the customs building where we filled out declaraIons and had our bags scanned and our passports stamped. A taxi ferried us about a kilometer across a bridge and dropped us off at another gate, quite similar to the one on the Uzbekistan side.

The guard had some difficulty determining where we were from; I had the sense that he had never seen a US passport before. He then pointed to a large building about 2 km away. We sighed and set off down the dusty road, lugging our bags, between four lines of barbed wire fencing, paralleling a no-man’s land that had been cleared of vegetaIon. I reached the door first, and it was opened by a handsome young man who greeted me by name. This was Rustam Valiev of Ayan Travel in Ashgabat, who will be our guide throughout our stay in Turkmenistan. He assisted us in filling out the necessary forms and clearing passport control. Our bags were scanned again, and we were asked if we had illegal drugs, religious materials, jewelry, or cigareYes. Leaving our larger suitcases behind made things immensely easier; I think it will be worth wearing our clothes for several days in a row. Rustam put us into a taxi for the 2.5-km ride to the final gate on the Turkmenistan side, and a"er one last passport check, we were through. Our driver, Merdan, was waiIng for us in a shiny grey Toyota Camry. A"er crossing the historic Amu Darya River, we reached Turkmenabat, where we stopped so that Rustam could register us at the State CommiYee for Tourism; we were served tea while we waited for him. The office is located in one of the grand new buildings that line the broad roadway.

Then we were on our way to Merv, the UNESCO-designated Silk Road oasis on the southern edge of the Qaraqum Desert. During our journey of more than 200 km, Rustam gave us an overview of Turkmenistan’s ancient and natural history as a preface to our visit. He told us that the Black Sands, as the desert is called, is a living desert, providing a home for a vast number of plants, birds, and animals. He proudly told us about his country that gained its independence in 1991 a"er the breakup of the Soviet Union. Although it is secular, more than 80% of its populaIon of 5 million is Muslim; about 10% is Russian Orthodox. He explained the parts of the Turkmenistan flag, telling us that the field of green represents the youth of the country and the five guls that fill the single red stripe represent the five major tribes. He showed us a map of ancient Merv, poinIng out the route we would take around the site, from the oldest area of Erk Qala (6th century BC) to the Gyaur Qala (3rd century BC), to the Sultan Qala (9th century), to his favorite building, the Mausoleum of Muhammad Ibn Zayd, a fine example of the incredible majesty of Seljuq brickwork.

Merv Oasis UNESCO

Rustam’s enthusiasm and knowledge was infecIous, and his encouragement as I climbed several monuments took me out of my comfort zone. But as I stood at the top of the citadel of the Erk Qala and looked at Jake far below, I was awed by the thought of just where I was at that moment.

As Rustam commented later during our kebab dinner at the Kafe Gyzylgum in the nearby city of Mary, Turkmenistan is the least visited and most isolated country among the former Soviet Republics; there are very few American tourists and almost no independent US visitors. A"er dinner, the three of us crossed a busy street where there seemed to be absolutely no inclinaIon for traffic to stop for pedestrians. He hailed a passing car—just a local ciIzen—to take us to the Mary Hotel. Apparently there is liYle concern about riding with strangers and it is common pracIce. I am not sure what I was expecIng, but when we pulled up at the Mary Hotel, I was surprised. Rather than a quirky liYle guesthouse, the Mary Hotel is—like everything else seems to be in this country—grand and new. The lobby, with its throne-like gold-trimmed chairs and massive chandelier, resembles a modern palace. Our room is very large, with gold draperies and crystal lamps; the brocade upholstery on the armchairs matches the quilted gold bedspread.

Saturday, October 8

Mary

We met Rustam for breakfast at 7:30. He had with him a plasIc bag with a jar of Japanese instant coffee and a boYle of condensed milk, which he offered to share, telling us that he does not like the coffee at the hotel. A few minutes past 8:00, a new driver, Shaberdy, met us in frontl with a Toyota Sienna van.

Professor Viktor Turik, a curator at the Mary Museum, was with him. He would be accompanying us as our guide to the archaeological site of Gonur Tepe, about 100 km north of Mary, in a remote area of the Qaraqum Desert. The trip took about three hours; 60 kilometers were on a series of increasingly bad roads, and the last 30 kilometers were through desert sand.

The site of Gonur Tepe covers about 135 acres, and was inhabited by Indo-Iranian peoples from as early as 4,000 years ago. The remains of a Bronze Age culture were first discovered there in 1973 by Soviet archaeologist Viktor Sarianidi, who found a palace, a forIfied mud-brick enclosure, and temples with fire altars which he believed were dedicated to the Zoroastrian religion. Other discoveries included extensive irrigaIon systems similar to the ones found in Egypt, two-wheeled carts, and silver and gold arIfacts. On the drive out, Viktor gave us an animated overview in Russian, which Rustam translated. Since Sarianidi's death in 2013, Turik has carried on his work, and it was obvious that he shares his mentor’s enthusiasm for Gonur and its treasures. When the van stopped and we got out, Rustam asked me if I felt like a 19th century explorer, and I must admit that I did, imagining myself as perhaps a Freya Stark or an Agnes Smith, as I strode out into the brilliant Turkman sun, so far from the rest of the world. For nearly two hours, we followed Viktor around the site, which he brought to life for us with his knowledge and enthusiasm.

Returning to the car, Viktor set out a picnic lunch that his daughter had prepared, complete with cold chicken and watermelon, and the local bread that he bought from a roadside stand on the way out. A"er lunch, we started the drive back to Mary, stopping to take pictures of camels munching Saxaul trees near the side of the road, and again so that I could pose in a field of coYon.

We returned to Mary in Ime to visit the Mary Museum, where we saw many of the treasures from the third and second millennium BCE that had been excavated from Gonur. It was kind of neat to see the ceramics and bronze objects immediately a"er our visit to the actual site. The museum’s ethnographic gallery has excepIonal examples of Turkman carpets and needlework, and beauIful gilded silver and carnelian jewelry on display.

Rustam gave us a tour of Mary, showing us, in addiIon to the new white marble mosque that seats 3500 and the library that looks like a palace, a 1900 Russian Orthodox Church perched down a side street, and unexpectedly, a MiG-19P displayed outside what had been an aviaIon school during the Soviet era. A"er a break, Rustam met us at 6:00 in the lobby and we walked a short distance to Ak Burgut (“White Eagle”) Café, where we sat outside in an inviIng arbor and shared kebabs, fries, and beer; the musical background of a Call to Prayer, Euro-Pop, and tradiIonal Turkman music somehow blending pleasantly around us.

Sunday, October 9

to Ashgabat

By 8:15, we’d had breakfast with Rustam and were at the front of the hotel, ready for our drive to Ashgabat with Merdan in his spotless Camry. As we drove along the excellent road, we chaYed about various aspects of Turkmenistan.

When we asked Rustam why there were no McDonalds, KFC, or Starbucks in the country, he explained that President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, as a doctor, is concerned about public health; local restaurants offer healthy fast food so that there is no need for such companies to come to Turkmenistan. We asked about smoking, and he assured us that it is on the decline and that in 50 years there will be no more smoking here. I asked about the tradiIonal scarves that the local women wear: is it their hair that makes them poof out in the back? No, he told us, the women have pads inside, rather like shoulder pads, that give the scarves their disIncIve look. Getng to the subject of today’s

drive, Rustam said that the road from Mary to Ashgabat follows the TransCaspian Rail Line, which in turn, was built along the Silk Road route. Today’s drive is along the ancient Silk Road and will take us to within a few meters of the Iranian border. The Kopet Dag Mountains that we could see in the distance form a natural barrier between the two countries. Entering Ahal Province from Mary Province, we stopped in Tejen, an oasis town in the Qaraqum Desert famous for its melons. At a roadside market, Rustam picked out a large Vaharman, considered the sweetest and most delicious of all melons, while I marveled at the piles of watermelons, squash, and pumpkins. Jake picked out a package of qaq, or dried melon, which he wanted to compare with that which he bought in Uzbekistan. Rustam pronounced that the melon would be our lunch.

Let the life of every Turkman be as beauHful as our melons.

—Saparmurat Niyazov We turned off the main highway and drove on a deserted back road towards the Iranian border to see the ruins of an 18th century fortress built by the order of Nadir-Shah, the Iranian ruler from the Afsharid dynasty. According to the legends of nomadic Turkmen, the sand and clay used to make the fortress were brought in from Khiva as a reminder of the Ime that Nadir spent there in capIvity. The fortress had a strategic funcIon as a military garrison and its main purpose was to control rebellious Turkmen tribes. Surrounded by the fortress walls, with the Kopet Dag Mountains before us, we picnicked on our Vaharman melon. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten anything more delicious. Close to the highway, the ancient seYlement of Abiverd was easier to reach. This was one of the major centers of Northern Khurasan and was an impregnable fortress protecIng the townspeople from the aYacks of nomads. Although the seYlement is slowly returning to the earth, bricked walls sIll remain and

ceramic shards of many colors are scaYered everywhere. It was an odd feeling to walk amongst these silent ruins and sIll hear the distant sound of highway traffic. As we neared Ashgabat, we stopped for a third Ime, at Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque, just 12 km from the city. This medieval mosque was built in the 15th century, but was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1948. Large chunks rest at odd angles, and the portal is broken in half. Only traces remain of its ornamental finishing; we saw no trace of the dragon figures that once decorated the portal. Although all but destroyed, it remains a place of pilgrimage, and we watched as families climbed the steps and worshipped together. In the parking lot, we said good-by to Merdan.

Since his car is registered in Mary Province, he cannot take it into the city of Ashgabat; it was necessary for us to transfer to another car for the drive into town.

Iran, 5 kilometers

Abiverd

Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque

Soon, Rustam pointed out a gleaming mirage on the edge of the Qaraqum Desert: Ashgabat, the City of White Marble. He told us that so much Carrera marble had been used to construct the capital that the worldwide price had increased by a third. As we drove along the wide boulevards, I found it hard to believe my eyes. Manicured parks with no one in sight; futurisIc white palaces decorated with gold-plated designs; minimal traffic. A"er days exploring ancient, dusty sites along the Silk Road, driving into Turkmenistan’s capital city was a shock. Ashgabat was designed, at the cost of billions of dollars, to showcase the glories of the Turkman. It looks like no city I have ever seen: an arIficial collecIon of white buildings that resemble a movie set. Rustam saw that we were safely checked into the Oguzkent Hotel; according to The Lonely Planet, it is the most impressive place to stay in Central Asia. The road was closed in front of the hotel (Rustam said that they were pracIcing for the Independence Day parade in three weeks) so we followed him along a path worn through the grass at the side of the hotel. I cannot imagine that more than a very few of the hotel’s 300 rooms are occupied; it, like the rest of the city, it feels strangely empty. While Rustam aYends the second round of family meeIngs regarding his impending engagement, he sent us off to have dinner on our own at City Pub, telling us to ask for Natalia when we got there. A car from the hotel dropped us at the

front door. It was a quintessenIal BriIsh pub, except that this one had a Coca-Cola sign over the bar and ubiquitous Russian music videos on two screens. A thin, aYracIve woman was seated at the bar, drinking beer through a straw; the bartender and two other men were keeping her company. Besides our place in the corner, the rest of the tables had been pushed together to form one long one. Places were set and boYles of vodka and brandy were placed at short intervals. Soon the guests began to arrive: young Russian woman, most in sexy dresses and sIleYo heels. It became apparent that the occasion was a birthday celebraIon for a woman in a Ight red dress who effusively greeted each of her friends as they arrived. We noIced that nearly everyone in the room was either smoking or looking at their cell phone or both. Eventually, several men showed up and the party got going, with much toasIng and posing for a photographer hired for the occasion. It was fascinaIng to watch all this within the context of the cold white world outside the door. When we were ready to leave, Natalia hailed a passing car; two boys dropped us off at the side of the hotel again for a quarter of what it cost to go there in a proper taxi. When I think back on today and consider that we have explored ancient sites, entered a city resembling a sci-fi movie set, and ended up in a BriIsh Pub watching a Russian Girls’ Night Out, I realize I am suffering from culture shock.

Monday, October 10

Ashgabat

Walking into the hotel breakfast room, we were met by a fleet of smiling chefs staIoned at their posts, offering everything from omelets to eggrolls. The smaYering of other guests appeared to be young European business people.

Rustam met us promptly at 8:45 for a day touring the Ashgabat area in a Chrysler Grand Voyager driven by Alex, an ethnic Armenian and veteran of the Soviet-Afghan War in the 1980s. We soon discovered that Alex likes to talk; in fact, he talked to Rustam nonstop in Russian, and we had to just interrupt if we wanted to say anything. We stopped briefly at a small government shop to buy water; I browsed the shelves of fruits and vegetables, teapots, and cosmeIcs.

Nisa UNESCO

These government-sponsored general stores are found in every village, according to Rustam. Eighteen kilometers southwest of the city center, we visited the ancient Parthian city of Nisa, a UNESCO-designated seYlement.

ExcavaIons there have revealed substanIal buildings, mausoleums, and shrines, and a looted treasury that Rustam said was bad luck to approach.

HellenisIc art works have been uncovered, as well as a large number of ivory rhytons, or horns, used to hold liquids. Rustam showed us how the complex was connected by a series of intersecIng hallways and described the work that archeologists are doing there.

Returning to the center of town, we were delayed for more than 40 minutes, when the traffic was halted in front of us as a full procession of military equipment—tanks, rocket launchers, missiles, personnel carriers—passed before us. Rustam said that this was another pracIce for the Independence Day Parade on October 27. When I asked how o"en the military held these pracIces, he said that they were conducted every day for three weeks, adding that we were fortunate to have been able to see what we did, as the

government generally does not grant visas to tourists during this sensiIve period. Once the road reopened, Alex drove us to the Carpet Museum. This was one place we had parIcularly looked forward to visiIng, and were disappointed that the charge to take photos was 12 manat (about $3.50) per shot. Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the exquisite Turkman carpets with their brilliant colors, intricate designs, and delicate work. We tried not to be unnerved by the silent young woman who followed every step we took.

Rustam took us next to see the Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque, opened on October 22, 2004 by the order of Turkmenistan’s first president, Saparmurat Niyazov, and the adjacent mausoleum that he planned for his own death. Niyazov died two years later, and was buried in the mausoleum on December 24, 2006. The mosque has been at the center of controversy, as scriptures from both the Koran and Niyazov’s own Ruhnama (Book of the Soul) are built into the walls, angering many Muslims. The building is striking both in its beauty and its size. It

seats 10,000 men on the main floor and 2,000 women in the balconies above.

Below, there is parking for 5,000 cars and 100 busses. Rustam pointed out the numerous symbols incorporated in the structure: the minarets are 91 meters high, represenIng the year 1991 when Turkmenistan gained its independence; the dome is 63 meters high, the age of the Prophet Mohammed when he died; there are 48 windows, represenIng the 1948 earthquake. He added, “A new naIon needs symbols, because symbols give hope.”

Ruhnama (The Book of the Soul) is a book wriYen by Saparmurat Niyazov, the President of Turkmenistan from 1990 to 2006, combining moral guidance, autobiography, and revisionist history. The text includes stories and poems, including those by Sufi poet Magtymguly Pyragy. It was intended to be the “spiritual guidance of the naIon” and the basis of the naIon's arts and literature, by creaIng a posiIve image of the Turkmen people, giving an heroic interpretaIon of its history, and providing the definiIon of “moral, family, social and religious norms for modern Turkmens”.

Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov (19 February 1940 – 21 December 2006) was a Turkmen poliIcian who served as the leader of Turkmenistan from 1985 unIl his death in 2006. He was First Secretary of the Turkmen Communist Party from 1985 unIl 1991 and conInued to lead Turkmenistan for 15 years a"er its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.

Alex drove slowly down the broad, empty boulevards, while Rustam pointed out various government agencies and ministries, each in its own magnificent white marble building. I saw that most buildings had window washers and marble cleaners working from perches high above us. Many of the buildings are architecturally designed to reflect their funcIon: the Foreign Ministry has a globe on top; the Ministry of EducaIon looks like an open book; CommunicaIons resembles a classic mobile phone; Medicine, a hypodermic needle. The Dental Hospital looks like a molar, while the Eye Hospital has an eye on the roof that can be seen from the air. Rustam said that the President places great emphasis on health. Because he is a pracIcing medical doctor, he has encouraged the expansion of medical insItutes and invited experts

from around the world to teach at Turkmenistan’s medical schools. We visited the Monument of Neutrality, first built in 1998 on the orders of Turkmenistan's first president, Saparmurat Niyazov, to commemorate the country's official posiIon. It had once featured a rotaIng golden statue of his likeness. However, current president Berdimuhamedow replaced the arch with a new 312-foot tall monument that is now located in the suburbs. The Niyazov statue is there, but no longer rotates. Our city tour concluded with Independence Monument, commemoraIng Turkmenistan’s independence on October 27, 1991. Set in a pine-filled park, the white and gold building was inspired by tradiIonal Turkmen tents and the headdress worn by Turkmen girls.

As we entered the northern, older part of the city, shady trees, Soviet-era buildings, and narrow lanes brought us back to reality. Alex and Rustam joined Jake and me for a Turkman lunch at Merdem Qala, where we had dumplings and lamb soup out under a shady tree. We could have eaten in a yurt, but decided to stay outside. A"er a run to the post oďŹƒce, Rustam escorted us back to the hotel; the road was closed again but nothing was said as we followed the same path we had yesterday to the entrance. This evening is an early one, as the alarm is set for 2:30 am for our early ight to Dashoguz.

Tuesday, October 11

to Khiva, Uzbekistan

The alarm went off and we were packed and ready for Rustam in the lobby when he arrived at 4:00 am. It was a good thing too: the hotel was hosIng President Shaymiev of the Republic of Tatarstan (a consItuent republic of the Russian FederaIon) and the road in front of the hotel was about to be closed again. We just managed to skirt past the security detail and jump in Alex’s waiIng car. We flew though silent, empty streets to the airport, stopping first to see the new internaIonal terminal, opened less than a month ago. It is designed to resemble a falcon in flight, the symbol of Turkmenistan Airlines. As we passed the old internaIonal terminal, Jake asked Rustam how old it actually was. Three

years, was his answer. Our flight to Dashoguz was scheduled to depart at 6:00 am; the check-in process was very quick, which apparently is not always the case. T5 101 departed early, since everyone boarded quickly and most had few carry-on items. As the new Boeing 737 took off and rose gradually, we saw Ashgabat’s perfectly gridded rectangle shining in the blackness below. For the duraIon of the 50-minute flight, we watched the sunrise over the desert, landing just at daybreak. I heard the clicking of unfastening seatbelts as soon as the wheels touched down; one fellow started down the aisle before the plane had even come to a complete stop.

WaiIng for us was our driver, Ulugbeg, in his Toyota Prado Land Cruiser; he would be taking us to Kunya Urgench, the UNESCO-listed ruins of the ancient capital of Khorzem (an oasis region on the Amu Darya River delta). The city rose to prominence between the 10th to the 14th centuries. At that Ime, Kunya Urgench was an important trading center, compeIng in fame and populaIon with many other Central Asian ciIes, such as Bukhara. The ruins of monuments, mosques, and minarets are scaYered on a baked and level plain, sIll revealing areas of skilled Ile and brickwork. Although restoraIon conInues, the overall effect has not been spoiled, and it remains a popular pilgrimage desInaIon. Rustam taught me to say to those we passed, “Kabul Bol Som,” meaning, “Let your charity be accepted by Allah” and introduced me to the imam of one of the mosques. Returning to the car, we went to a small café in the nearby village for tea and hot meat pies, which we ate while we struggled to find comfortable posiIons among the cushions around a tradiIonal low table. Then it was Ime for us to start the border crossing process at Dashoguz. Rustam took us as far as he could on the Turkmenistan side, and we said our good-byes. I found that I had become quite aYached to him in our five days together. At that point, we were once again on our own.

The crossing process was fairly painless this Ime, although I lost count of the number of Imes we were asked to show our passports. By 12:45, we passed through the last gate to Uzbekistan where a car was waiIng for us. Sultan introduced himself and drove us to Khiva, honking at other cars and swerving to avoid potholes with the window down the whole Ime. Hair blown and lungs full of exhaust, I swore that I would not be so passive next Ime, and ask the driver to turn on the AC. Forty miles from Khiva, we drove through Urgench, the capital of Khorzem Province, a Soviet-era grid of broad streets and empty squares.

Kunya Urgench UNESCO

We arrived in Khiva at 4:00 and Sultan carried our bags into the Ichon-Qala, or Walled City, where we are staying at the Orient Star, a 19th century madrassa.

The hotel is located next to the Kalta Minor, the squat, unďŹ nished minaret that is the iconic symbol of Khiva. The rooms were former student cells. Although there are some killer stairs to reach it (as a UNESCO site, such changes cannot be made) and the rooms have no windows, the place is full of atmosphere and it is fascinaIng to think that we are sleeping in a piece of history.

Wednesday, October 12

Khiva

A"er a breakfast served in a second building in the madrassa complex, we were ready to explore the third of Uzbekistan’s famous Silk Road ciIes, Khiva. Along with Samarqand and Bukhara, Khiva is an important historical site on that famous road. Although it is now a sleepy oasis sandwiched between two deserts, it had a long and brutal history as a renegade city of slave traders and thieves. Almost all of the ancient buildings lie within the Ichon-Qala, and there seems to be something photogenic or interesIng around every corner. We began at the West Gate, where we bought Ickets inclusive of all the sites.

We walked east along the Phlavon Mahmud, detouring down side alleys if they looked interesIng. Trying to avoid tour groups, we visited the Kukhna Ark, a fortress-residence daIng from the 12th century, and then the madrassa across from it, switching places with groups.

Outside the madrassa, I noIced an old woman dressed in white. A"er our encounter in Bukhara, I suspected that she had recently been in Mecca. I moIoned towards her and tried to ask. Once she understood my quesIon, she kissed me on the cheek; I was right.

Nearby, the 18th century Phlavon Mahmud Mausoleum is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Uzbekistan. Mahmud was famous for his bravery, physical strength, and goodness; he was also a doctor, poet, and saint. We saw a number of families with elaborately dressed children walking to the shrine. I entered the mausoleum and was struck by the richly glazed blue and white Iles that covered the interior. Many people were praying before the door of the crypt and an imam chanted in the larger prayer room. Outside, proud parents were happy to let me to photograph their children.

The Islam Khoja Madrassa is now the Museum of Applied Arts. We walked the long corridors and saw examples of woodworking, metal cra"ing, rugs, and texIles.

We conInued east through this historic city, the most homogenous collecIon of architecture in the Islamic world.

At the east gate, we entered the bazaar. Beyond the plasIc tubs, toilet paper, and giant-sized cleaning supplies, we wandered through the food market. Huge bags of rice of numerous varieIes, sweets swarming with bees, red pomegranates and yellow carrots—it was a riot of color and acIvity. Most vendors were happy to let me take pictures; those who declined sIll exchanged a good-natured wave.

Walking back towards our hotel, we discovered the Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop and Suzani Centre. Since I had read Christopher Aslan Alexander’s Carpet Ride to Khiva, I was hoping to find the workshop that he described so affecIonately in this 2010 memoir of his years in Uzbekistan. I was delighted to meet Mehribon, the wife of the man who had worked with “Aslan”, and had taken over the project a"er the author’s departure. Mehribon spoke

liYle English, but conveyed that her husband, Madrim, would be there at 5:00. Jake and I returned to the shop later and were pleased to meet Madrim. He showed us suzani and carpets, all meIculously designed a"er Khiva’s ancient doors, Iles, and miniature painIngs. We bought two Ileinspired suzanis and conversed with Madrim in a combinaIon of English, sign language, and “heartspeak” about ordering a hand-embroidered jacket.

As the sun was setng, Jake and I stopped for dinner at Terrassa CafĂŠ, where we sat outside overlooking Mohammed Rakhim Khan Square. A cool breeze, a clear sky, and a liYle vodka made for a memorable evening together, enjoying beauIful Khiva.

Thursday, October 13

Khiva

A chilly wind was blowing this morning as we walked to breakfast under an overcast sky. A"er all of the sunshine we’ve had, we realized that we have taken the fine weather for granted. At 10:00, we returned to the Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop to discuss the jacket. Both Madrim and Mehribon were on hand to help me try on samples and discuss exactly what I wanted. There was a long coat with beauIful hooked-embroidery in a design and color paleYe that I loved, and it fit nicely too. But having no real use for a coat, I explored with them the possibility of cutng it off, even going with Mehribon

to a seamstress. But in the end, we all agreed that it would be wrong to cut into such beauIful handwork; we would order a jacket instead. Madrim indicated that I would have it by Christmas. The details were worked out, measurements taken, and the payment made. Now I will look forward to receiving a suzani jacket embroidered especially for me. By early a"ernoon, the sun had worked its way through the clouds but it was sIll cold, so we holed up in our cell with the heat on to warm up and do some preparaIons for our departure tomorrow morning.

As sunset neared, we walked down the emptying street, inhaling the shadowy atmosphere of Khiva. We returned to Bir Gumbaz, where we’d eaten our first night in Khiva. Sitng inside this Ime, we shared plov, gumma, and gok barak (light dumplings filled with chopped greens) and a couple of rounds of vodka.

Friday, October 14

to Ayaz Qala, Qaraqalpaqstan

A"er our final breakfast at the madrassa in Khiva, we met our driver, Kamu, for the drive to the yurt camp at Ayaz Qala in Qaraqalpaqstan. There was some confusion, as he was not aware that we had wanted to visit several ancient fortresses before we stopped for the night. Qaraqalpaqstan is a unique area: since 1936, it has been an ill-defined autonomous republic inside Uzbekistan. The Qaraqalpaq are a Turkic people whose language and customs are closer to Kazakh than Uzbek and who more closely resemble Mongols than Persians. Our drive today took us through the barren desert wilderness that surrounds small oases where people have established farms. The simple houses that we passed looked almost adobe, and are surrounded by fields of coYon, corn, and cabbages. Off in the distance, beyond these small homes,

are the ruins of ancient fortresses or qalas that at one Ime dominated the area, but now have slipped into anIquity against the backdrop of the Sultan Uvays Dag mountains. Kamu drove us to several of these ancient ruins. The first, Guldursun Qala, dates mainly from the 12th century; the ruins we saw today are all that remain a"er it was overwhelmed by the Mongols in 1221.

The climb up to the fortress was daunIng, but I worked my way through the brambles around to the other side and managed to reach an interesIng part of the wall that was actually a system of double towers. We also climbed up to the Kyr Kyz Qala, a dramaIc ruin that, like the others, is dissolving into the desert; its towers somewhat resembled the chimney formaIons in Cappadocia in Turkey.

As we approached the three Ayaz Qalas, we stopped several Imes to take pictures of them. This evening, we will be spending our last night in Uzbekistan at the Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp. The camp is run by a Qaraqalpaq woman named Rana, who welcomed us warmly and seemed on the verge of tears that we declined her offer of lunch. We sat in the main yurt and had tea while we waited for ours to be prepared. Rana carried in our bags and showed us where we will sleep, poinIng out the single solar light bulb above. I was pleased to find that the shared toilets are western, but there is no hot water, so no showering or shaving tonight or tomorrow morning. As I was entering our yurt, I banged my head on the low, hard doorframe. I confess: that, coupled with the realizaIon that we will have no opportunity to clean up before we start our long journey home tomorrow night, had a negaIve effect on my usual good humor. But when smiling Rana brought us

a tray of watermelon slices and a boYle of local Qaraqalpaq vodka, my posiIve outlook returned. How o"en does one get to explain a bad hair day by sleeping in a yurt? As the a"ernoon progressed, we soon realized that we were the only guests. I watched as several men went through the complicated process of disassembling the yurts around us in preparaIon for the long winter ahead. A"er 6:00, our agreed Ime for dinner, I went looking for Rana. She was in the Iny kitchen, which must resemble those of a millennium ago: a flat metal surface with metal pots and keYles. She opened the door to the oven: the roaring wood fire was cooking our dinner. She served us alone, bringing aubergine salad, hot rice broth, and cooked beef and potatoes. As we sat alone under the roof with its complicated construcIon of wooden poles and straps, I marveled again at just where we were.

Only with George Leonard would I find myself, at this stage of my life, in a yurt in the middle of the desert in Qaraqalpaqstan, Uzbekistan, alone, except for the naEve woman who is looking aQer us. There is a full moon this evening, our last in this country, and as I write with freezing fingerEps, I marvel at what we have seen and done together, and how my husband has made me conscious of what I am capable of doing. People don’t travel like this anymore; not people of our age, anyway. So what if I arrive back in Chicago looking like the last Eme I slept was 30 hours ago in a yurt in Qaraqalpaqstan? I conEnue to really experience life, and I realize how thankful I am for the man who has enabled me to do it.

Saturday, October 15

En Route to Istanbul, Turkey

We spent a frigid night, shivering in the yurt as we slept in our clothes under the heavy quilts that Rana provided. Going to the bathroom during the night was a torturous affair as I walked to the toilet in an icy wind, but a full moon illuminated the way. We were surprised that it was 8:00 when we woke up a"er a fizul night. All I could manage was brushing my teeth in the freezing water. When I told Rana that we were ready for breakfast, she felt my cold cheeks and sent us to a smaller yurt heated by a wood-burning stove. We sat on cushions as she brought us a plate of fried eggs, a round of bread, and instant coffee with camel’s milk. I had green tea.

Sultan, our driver from a few days ago, arrived at 9:30 in his Chevy Cobalt to take us to two more fortresses and then on to Nukus. As we drove along, we again noIced the obvious salt deposits in the surrounding ďŹ elds.

This was caused when the Soviets diverted the Amu Darya River to canals for the purpose of irrigaIng their coYon ďŹ elds. The water soaked into the soil and dissolved underground salt deposits that eventually worked their way to the surface, causing signiďŹ cant environmental damage. It was twenty kilometers to Topraq Qala, where we climbed up to the site, which had once probably been a royal summer palace. I kept climbing higher and found a hidden door. Carefully peeking inside, I saw an arch leading to another room that had an interesIng niche. How I love these solitary moments of discovery. Three kilometers further we stopped at Qizil Qala; unfortunately, it appears to be undergoing a massive over-restoraIon, with a new wall totally obscuring it. The two qalas date from the 1st and 2nd centuries and were probably related in some way: perhaps Qizil was a military garrison to protect the nearby royal residence.

We drove on to Nukus, capital of Qaraqalpaqstan, through a barren desert landscape that stretched to the horizon, arriving in the city at about 12:30.

Along gridded avenues, we passed block a"er block of Soviet era housing. The highlight of Nukus is the Qaraqalpaqstan NaIonal Museum of Art, popularly known as the Savitsky Museum. It was established by Igor Savitsky in the 1960s. An arIst himself, Savitsky emigrated to Nukus and began collecIng indigenous Uzbek arIfacts at a Ime when the Soviets were implemenIng a system of cultural ambiguity. He eventually started to acquire painIngs and other works from arIsts suppressed by the regime. The museum is home to one of the finest collecIons of Soviet avant-garde art from the 1920s and 1930s (before the Stalinist era made realism the only acceptable form of Soviet art). Because of Nukus’s obscure locaIon, Savitsky was able to

The Savitsky Museum, Nukus

assemble his collecIon when the great museums of Moscow and St. Petersburg could not. His passionate protégée, Marinika Babnazarova, is no longer the museum’s director; Karlibaev Makhset, a Qaraqalpaq archeologist, took over in February. An expansion of the museum is projected for 2017 but its compleIon may be delayed for a good deal longer, according to Svetlana, a museum associate. We spent several hours enjoying Savitsky’s own painIngs of Khiva and his beloved Qaraqalpaqstan, painIngs by Uzbek arIsts, and of course, the collecIon of Russian avant-garde art. The ethnographic art collecIon includes a beauIfully ouziYed yurt and exquisite costumes, jewelry, and texIles from the Qaraqalpaq people. A"er bowls of steaming dumpling soup at the museum café, we took a taxi to the Nukus Airport, arriving at 4:00 for our 8:45 pm flight to Tashkent, as we start our long journey home.

Sunday, October 16

to Chicago, IL

Our four hours at Nukus Airport seemed interminable, as there was absolutely nothing to do. The long hall, furnished with a few rows of black plasIc chairs, offered nothing but a TV that was playing an old Eddie Murphy movie dubbed in Russian that looked awful. A café/bar at the end of the room was firmly locked. A"er our night at the yurt, all my electronic devices had run down and a fellow snagged the single wall outlet just as I saw it. There was nothing to read besides Russian posters warning of the slave trade and Iny pictures of wanted or missing persons with Russian capIons. Our Uzbekistan Airways flight 1008 arrived early in Tashkent and we met Ramil outside the domesIc terminal at 11:00 pm. He had the bags that we’d le" behind for the Turkmenistan leg of our trip, and dropped us off at the internaIonal terminal. It was like seeing an old friend to find him waiIng for us, early as usual. The check-in and boarding process was extremely thorough but efficient, and we found ourselves with a long wait again at the departure gate for our 2:45 am flight on Turkish Airlines 371 to Istanbul. A"er dinner on board, I don’t remember much else unIl the lights came on and we were landing. Another long wait—eight hours this Ime— for our final leg on Turkish Airlines 5 to Chicago. We are getng to know the airport, and found a quiet gate where we logged on to free Wi-Fi for two hours, charged my phone and computer, and even got a liYle sleep before our flight finally took off for O’Hare. Ten hours later, we landed in Chicago.

Our Global Entry enrollment enabled us to fly through customs and we were back home and headed for bed by 7:00 pm.

Faces of Central Asia

Itinerary

SEPTEMBER

Time (GMT +2:00) in Turkey 1 Turkish Lira (TRY) = (USD) $0.34; USD $100= TRY 294 5,000 Uzbekistani Som (UZS) = (USD) $1.67 (official); 2989 UZS = 1 USD (official) about 5,000 Uzbekistani Som (UZS) = (USD) $0.79 (street); 6363 UZS = 1 USD (street) Sunday

25 Transfer from Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel to Airport Depart: Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi InternaIonal Airport, TBS, on Turkish Airlines Flight 387 (Airbus 321-100/200) at 06:35 on Ime; Seats 6D, 6E Arrive: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 at 07:45, on Ime Breakfast: Istanbul Ataturk Airport: BTA Cafe Depart: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 on Turkish Airlines Flight 370 (Airbus A330-200) at 18:10, on Ime; Seats 7J, 7K LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace: Room 342, standard queen 56, Buyuk Turon Street, Tashkent TASHKENT, UZBEKISTAN sunny, clear: 50 to 80 degrees

Time (GMT +5:00) in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan Monday

26 Arrive Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 2 at 00:30 on Ime Meet Salom Travel representaIve: Romil Ibragimov Depart airport 02:00; transfer to hotel by Romil Sites: New Town: Alisher Navoi Opera & Ballet Theater; Amir Timur Square, Timur Statue, Grand Duke N K Romanov Palace, Independence Square Dinner: Tashkent Restaurant, LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace TASHKENT clear, sunny: 90 degrees

Tuesday

27 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace Route: tour of Tashkent with Romil, as driver and guide, in his non-air condiIoned white Daewoo sedan Sites: Old Town; Khast Imam Square, Muyie Mubarak Library, Abu Bakr Mohammed Kaffal Shashi Mausoleum, Tellya Sheikh Mosque, Sheikhantaur Mausoleum Complex: Yunus Khan, Sheikhantour and Kaldirgach Bey; Jummi Mosque, Kukeldash Madrasa, Chorsu Bazaar, Milliy Taomlar, TV Tower, Tashkent Metro (Pakhtakor, Alisher Navoi, O’bekistan, Kosmonavtlar stops) Lunch: Central Asian Plov Center LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace TASHKENT clear, sunny: 90 degrees 19 km

Wednesday

28 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace Sites: Uzbekistan State Museum of History, Art Gallery of Uzbekistan AcIviIes: Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theater: Giselle performance: 18:00 to 20:15 Dinner: Kafe Floya LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace TASHKENT hazy, clear: 75 degrees

Thursday

29 Breakfast: LoYe City Hotel Tashkent Palace Transfer to railway staIon by Romil Depart: Tashkent Vokzal (Railway StaIon) on Afrosiyob No 762, Car 2, Seats 17 and 18 at 08:00, on Ime Arrive Samarqand Railway StaIon at 10:10, on Ime Sites: Samarqand (UNESCO): Old Town: Registan complex: Ulugh Beg Madrasa, Sher Dor Madrasa, Tilla-Kari Madrasa; Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum, Siab Bazaar, Tashkent Street: tourist promenade between Registan and Bibi-Khanym Mosque Dinner: Old City Restaurant Jahongir B&B: Room 14, standard twin 4, Chirokchi Street, Samarqand rail distance 344 km SAMARQAND clear, sunny: 85 degrees

Friday

30 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B Route: tour of Samarqand with Eldor, as driver, in his Chevrolet Lacet sedan Sites: Ulugh Beg’s Observatory , Observatory Museum; ruins of Afrosiab, Afrosiab Museum; Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis and adjacent cemetery; Hazrat-Hizr Mosque and adjacent tomb of Islam Karimov (in state); Gur-E-Emir Mausoleum Shopping: bakeries near Ulugh Beg’s Observatory Dinner (15:00): Samarqand Restoran Jahongir B&B SAMARQAND overcast: 65 degrees 26 km

OCTOBER Saturday

1 NaIonal Holiday: Teacher’s Day Breakfast: Jahongir B&B Route: roundtrip drive over Tahtakaracha Pass to Shakhrizabz with Kamil, as driver, and with Eldor, as guide, in Hyundai Starex CVX van Sites: Historic Center of Shakhrizabz (UNESCO): Timur’s Ak Saray Palace; tourist promenade between Ak Saray Palace and KhazraI-Imam Complex; Amir Timur Museum; Dorut Tilovat, Mausoleum of Sheik Shamseddin Kulyal, Gumbazi Seyidan, Kok Gumbaz Mosque, KhazraI-Imam Complex: Tomb of Jehangir, Crypt of Timur; KhazreI Mosque Lunch (14:00): near Tahtakaracha Pass: Ming Chinor Resort Jahongir B&B SAMARQAND overcast: 65 degrees 191 km

Sunday

2 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B Route: roundtrip drive to Urgut and Koni Gil with Kemal, as driver, and with Eldor, as guide, in Hyundai Starex CVX van Sites: Urgut: Sunday market; Koni Gil: Meros Paper Mill; Samarqand: Tashkent Street Shopping: Urgut: Sunday market; Koni Gil: Meros Paper Mill; Samarqand: Nargis Bekmuhamedova TexIles Dinner (15:00): Platan Restoran Jahongir B&B SAMARQAND clear, sunny: 40 to 65 degrees 109 km

Monday

3 Breakfast: Jahongir B&B Route: Royal Road: drive to Navoi, Karmana, Gizhduvan, Vabkent and Bukhara with Zokir, as driver, in Chevrolet Orlando LT van Sites: coYon fields; Karmana: Mir Said Bakhrom Mausoleum, Kasim Sheikh Kanaga; Rabat-i- Malik: royal caravanserai; Gijduvan: Ulugh Beg Madrasa, Tomb of Khoja Abdul Khalik Gijduvani, poYery workshops; Vabkent: minaret; Bukhara: Lyab-i-Hauz Shopping: Gijduvan (poYery workshops of Narzullaev Brothers), Lunch (14:30): Gijduvan: Narzullaev Brothers Workshops restaurant Salom Inn: Room 9, double 3, Sarrafon Street, Bukhara BUKHARA sunny, overcast, windy; very dusty: 40 to 70 degrees 281 km

Tuesday

4 Breakfast: Salom Inn Sites: Historic Center of Bukhara (UNESCO): Lyab-i-Hauz ensemble: Lyab-i-Hauz pond and plaza, Nadir Divanbegi Madrasa and Khanaka, Kukeldash Madrasa; Ark area: Registan, Ark Fortress, Ark Museums; Poi Kalon (Pedestal of the Great) ensemble: Kalon Gate, Kalon Minaret, Kalon Juma Mosque, Mir-i-Arab Madrasa; Ulugh Beg Madrasa, Abdul Aziz Madrasa; Covered Bazaars: Tok-i-Tilpak Furushon (capmaker’s) Bazaar, Tok-i- Sarrafon (money changer’s) Bazaar, Tok-i-Zargaron (Jeweler’s) Bazaar; Maghok-i-AYari Mosque/Carpet Museum Dinner (15:00): Minzifa Restaurant Salom Inn BUKHARA clear, sunny: 40 to 70 degrees

Wednesday

5 Breakfast: Salom Inn Route: Tour of Bukhara area sites in taxis with Diana, as guide.

Sites: Emir’s Summer Palace; Registan area: Bolo Hauz Mosque, Russian water tower; Chashma Ayub Mausoleum, Ismael Samani Mausoleum; Chor Minar; Modar-i- Khan and Abdullah Khan Madrasas; Balyand Mosque Shopping: Tok-i-Zargaron (Jeweler’s) Bazaar; Toshev Davlat Tea: Chaikhana Lyab-i-Hauz Dinner: Restaurant Saroy Salom Inn BUKHARA sunny, slightly overcast: 50 to 75 degrees

Thursday

6 Breakfast: Salom Inn Sites: Zindan and Museum of Law and LegislaIon; Shopping: Toshev Davlat Dinner (17:30): Restaurant Old Bukhara Salom Inn BUKHARA

1 Turkmenistan Manat (TMT) = (USD) $0.29; USD $100= TMT 345

Friday

7 Breakfast: Salom Inn Route: drive to border check-point “Farap� with Rafgat, as driver, in Chevrolet van; cross Amu Darya (Oxus) River, drive M37 to Turkmenabat, Ancient Merv and Mary with Merdan, as driver, and Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Toyota Camry Sites: Ancient Merv (UNESCO): Erk Qala, Gyaur Qala, Sultan Kala: Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum, Shahryar Ark, Mausoleum of Muhammad ibn Zayd, Great and LiYle Kyz Qalas, Abdullah Khan Qala Dinner: Mary: Kafe Gyzygum with Rustam Mary Hotel: Room 112, standard king Mollanepes Kocesi Street, Mary MARY, TURKMENISTAN clear, sunny: 55 to 75 degrees 440 km (99 in Uzbekistan)

Saturday

8

Breakfast: Mary Hotel Route: round-trip drive to Gonur-Tepe with Shaberdy, as driver, and with Viktor Turik and Rustam Valiev, as guides, in Toyota Sienna LE van Sites: Qaraqum Desert with camels; Gonur-Teper: Royal Palace, necropolis; Mary: Mary Regional Museum, Hajji Gurbanguly Mosque, Pokrovskaya Orthodox Church Dinner: Ak Burgut (White Eagle) Restoran with Rustam Mary Hotel MARY clear, sunny: 50 to 75 degrees 218 km

Sunday

9

Breakfast: Mary Hotel Route: drive M37 to Tejen, Kaakhka, Yashlyk, Anau, and to outskirts of Ashgabat with Merdan, as driver, in Toyota Camry and into Ashgabat with Vladimir, as driver, in Mercedes C Class sedan and with Rustam Valiev, as guide, Sites: Abiverd: Nadir Shah Fortress, ruins of ancient Abiverd; Anau: Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque Lunch: Abiverd: melon at Nadir Shah Fortress Dinner: Ashgabat: City Pub Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel: Room 819, standard king 231, Bitarap Turkmenistan Avenue, Ashgabat ASHGABAT clear, sunny: 55 to 80 degrees 444 km

Monday

10 Breakfast: Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel Route drive to Bagir and within Ashgabat with Alex, as driver, and with Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Chrysler Grand Voyager LE van Sites: Bagir: Old Nisa: Parthian fortresses (UNESCO): fortress walls, palace, temple, treasury; motorized military parade pracIce for Independence Day; Turkmenbashi RuhMosque; Wedding Palace, Vyidyz Hotel; Central Ashgabat: Oguzkhan PresidenIal Palace, Turkmen Carpet Museum, Ministry of Fairness and other white marble government buildings, Independence Park and Monument to Independence, Arch of Neutrality Dinner: (15:00): Merdem Gala with Rustam and Alex Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel ASHGABAT clear, sunny, dusty: 80 degrees 99 km

Tuesday

11 Breakfast: Ashgabat Oguzkent Hotel Transfer at 04:00 to Ashgabat InternaIonal Airport with Alex, as driver, in Chrysler Grand Voyager LE van Depart: Ashgabat InternaIonal Airport, ASB, domesIc terminal, on Turkmenistan Airlines Flight 101 (Boeing 737-300) at 06:00, Seats 14D and 14E, with Rustam Valiev in Seat 14C Arrive Dashoguz Airport, TAZ, at 06:50, on Ime; flight distance: 438 km Route: drive from Dashoguz to Kunya-Urgench and to Turkmenistan border check-point “Dashoguz/Khodjeily” with Ulugh Beg, as driver, and with Rustam Valiev, as guide, in Toyota Prado Land Cruiser. Drive from Uzbekistan border, crossing Amu Darya (Oxus) River, and through Urgench to Khiva with Sultan, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan Sites: Kunya-Urgench (UNESCO): mausoleums of Turebek Khanym, Seyit Akhmat, and Sultan Tekesh, Kyrk Molla, Qutlug Timur Minaret, Ma’mun minaret, Gate of the Caravanserai; Khiva; West Gate, Kalta Minor Minaret Tea: Kunya-Urgench: Mira’s Kafe Dinner: Khiva: Bir Gumbaz Hotel Orient Star: Room 122, standard twin 1, Pakhlavan Makhmud Street, Khiva KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN sunny, partly cloudy: 80 degrees 298 km (127 in Turkmenistan)

Total kilometers driven in Turkmenistan

1,229 km

Wednesday

12 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star Sites: Itchan Qala (UNESCO): West and East Gates and Walls, Kalta Minor Minaret, Juma Mosque, Kukhna Ark and Museum, Summer Mosque, Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa, Kozi-Kalon Madrasa, Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, Shir Gazi Khan Madrasa, Islam Khoja Mausoleum and Minaret, Museum of Applied Arts, Allah Kuli Khan Caravanserai and Bazaar, Mohammed Amin Inok Madrasa, Tash Hauli Palace Shopping: Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop and Suzani Centre Lunch: Khorezm Art Restaurant Dinner: Terassi Kafé Hotel Orient Star KHIVA clear, sunny: 70 degrees

Thursday

13 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star Sites: Pahlavon Mahmud Street, Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop and Suzani Centre Dinner: Bir Gumbaz Hotel Orient Star KHIVA clear, overcast, cold: 55 degrees

Friday

14 Breakfast: Hotel Orient Star Route: drive to Khorezem fortresses and ruins with Kamu, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan Sites: Khorezem: Guldursun Qala, Kyr Kyz Qala, Ayaz Qalas 1, 2 and 3 Dinner: Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp Near ruins of Ayaz Qala fortress AYAZ QALA, QARAQALPAQSTAN clear, sunny; cold: 35 to 55 degrees 158 km

Saturday

15 Breakfast: Ayaz Qala Yurt Camp Route: drive from Khorezem fortresses and ruins to Nukus with Sultan, as driver, in Chevrolet Cobalt sedan Sites: Khorezem: Toprak Qala, Qizil Qala; Nukus: Karakalpak (Savitsky) Museum of Art Lunch: Karakalpak Museum of Art Cafe Depart: Depart: Nukus Airport, NCU, on Uzbekistan Airlines Flight 1008 (Airbus 320) at 21:25, on Ime; flight distance: 811 km Arrive Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 3 at 22:45, 15 minutes early Meet Romil Ibragimov for suitcases and transfer to Terminal 2 EN ROUTE TO ISTANBUL, TURKEY overcast, cold: 35 to 55 degrees 163 km

Total kilometers driven in Uzbekistan: 1,217 km Time (GMT +2:00) in Turkey 1 Turkish Lira (TRY) = (USD) $0.34; Sunday

16 Depart: Tashkent InternaIonal Airport, TAS, Terminal 2 on Turkish Airlines Flight 371 (Airbus A330-200) at 02:55, 10 minutes late; Seats 6J, 6K Arrive Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 at 06:00, 20 minutes late Breakfast: Istanbul Ataturk Airport: BTA Cafe Depart: Istanbul Ataturk Airport, IST, Terminal 1 on Turkish Airlines Flight 5 (Boeing 777-300ER) at 14:20; Seats 16H, 16J Arrive Chicago O’Hare InternaIonal Airport, ORD, Terminal 5 at 17:10, 50 minutes early CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

Total kilometer rail distance between Tashkent and Samarqand: 344 km (215 miles) Distance of domesIc flights in Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan: 1,249 km (781 miles) Total kilometers drove and driven in Caucasus: 3,291 km (2,057 miles) Total kilometers driven in Central Asia: 2,446 km (1,529 miles) Total kilometers driving on trip: 5,737 km (3,586 miles)

Nukus Kunya-Urgench Dashoguz

Gonur Tepe Merv

Urgut Shakhrizabz

A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through the Caucasuses and Central Asia from September 4-October 16, 2016. Volume 4. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2016