2015 Travels with Carter

Travels with Carter 2015

A journal kept by Susan Hanes for her grandson, Carter Houston Hanes, during a trip they made to Austria and Germany from June 5-June 15, 2015. Photos by Susan Hanes with contributions by Jen and Carter Hanes. copyright 2015.

Travels with Carter June 5 - June 15, 2015 Jen had a great idea when she asked if I would like to come to Vienna and meet her and Carter while she attended a conference sponsored by the International Council of Ophthalmology. We would all share her hotel room and Carter and I would be free to explore Vienna while Jen was busy with the European Society of Ophthalmology Congress.

So after spending ten days in London, I flew to Vienna. For the next five days, Carter and I explored one of the great cities of the world. When the Congress was over, Jen and Carter took a train to Hallstatt and Munich while I headed to Stuttgart. Three days later, we met up again at the home of Klaus and Dagmar Stark where three generations of our families gathered for the baptism of Hanna Sophie KÜhler, the Starks’ newest grandchild.

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Friday, June 5

to Vienna, Austria

The alarm went off at 6:00 so that I could get to Heathrow

was able to get to the Austria Center and meet up with

in plenty of time for my flight. Michael Palau offered to

Carter immediately. He had been patiently waiting for me

drive me there, saving me from negotiating the Jubilee Line

all morning while Jen was setting up for the conference that

during the morning rush. Storms around the airport

starts tomorrow. Carter led me the short way to the Park

delayed my British Airways flight to Vienna for nearly an

Inn where Jen would meet us later. We joined her

hour, but we managed to make up most of the time and I

colleague, Lindsay, and walked along the Alte Donau for

arrived just after 1:00. I had a surprise when my bag did not

ribs and beer at StrandCafĂŠ. Carter and I made plans for the

make it on the same flight that I did, in spite of my

next couple of days and we all had an early night. I slept in

checking in early and the flight being delayed. The good

the same clothes I had worn all day, with the hope that my

side of that was that I was unencumbered with luggage and

bag would be found soon.

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Saturday, June 6

Vienna, Austria

Carter and I started out fresh and feeling great after a good night’s sleep. We had planned to start the Big Bus circle tour near our hotel, but after several attempts to find the stop, we gave up and took the U-Bahn to Stephansplatz, the geographical center of Vienna. Just as we were coming up the steps to street level, a brass band started playing—in honor of Carter’s arrival, I teased him. We walked through St. Stephen’s Cathedral, one of the tallest churches in the world.

Dating from the mid-13th century, it has borne witness to many important events in Habsburg and Austrian history and is, with its multi-colored tile roof, one of the city's most recognizable symbols.

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral

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We walked down Kohlmarkt to Demel, the famous pastry shop and chocolatier, founded in 1786. We gazed through the glass at the beautiful pastries and cakes arrayed in old curved wooden cases. In another room, mountains of antique-styled boxes of chocolates were arranged in pyramids.

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We found a great table next to the sidewalk outside and had lunch.

I explained to Carter how lucky we were to have such a nice spot, as Demel is always full. We ordered sausages and sandwiches and shared a leafy green salad.

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Of course, we topped it off with Demel’s famous ice cream. We ordered cups from the special ice cream window. Carter chose raspberry and lemon and I had Cat’s Tongue and vanilla. The verdict was that the raspberry was one of the best Carter had ever had but the lemon was too lemony.

My vanilla was really flavorful and the Cat’s Tongue (a delicate chocolate) was just about perfect.

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We continued up to the Spanish Riding School entrance to check where we need to be tomorrow. The horses were in their stalls, awaiting their Sunday performance.

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Nearby, we visited the Imperial Treasury at the Hofburg Palace, with its amazing collection of treasures covering more than a thousand years of European history. Carter decided that the imperial crown would be his choice to carry out under his coat. I think I might have preferred the gold necklace with the Golden Fleece hanging as a pendant. We were intrigued by the gold and jeweldecorated gloves we saw, and smiled that they are called handschuhe in German. There was also an impressive array of gold swords and sabers, encrusted with jewels.

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I tried to use my phone’s GPS to find the Zukerlwerkstatt (Sugar Workshop), but gave up and handed the duties over to Carter after I brought us to a place called United Nude Vienna.

Fortunately, the candy factory was next door. We were warmly greeted when we went in and were invited to watch the magic as a giant mound of candy-striped fondant was rolled into thin tubes with tiny fruit images inside. After a taste, we bought two jars of mixed fruit candies. Carter also suggested that I get a jar of candies with tiny hearts in their centers.

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From there it was a short walk to the U-Bahn. We managed the change of lines and by 4:00 we were in our room. Jen came back for a rest a short time after we did; it was fun to tell her about our day. At 6:00, we were ready to head back down to the center of town for the evening. By the time we changed trains at Schwedenplatz, we decided that we had pretty much mastered the subway. After locating the Kursalon Wien, where we had tickets for the evening concert, we stopped at the nearby Café Hagelhof for meatballs and salad. At 8:00, we picked up our tickets and took our seats. Johann Strauss once directed his orchestra in that same hall, and as we sat on the gold wooden chairs, Carter and I felt as it must have been to attend one of those musical evenings. We loved the music, as we listened to Strauss’s “Blue Danube,” “O Mio Babbino Caro” from Puccini’s La Boheme, and “In quegli anni” from Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro. We have now sensed Vienna’s greatness through its treasures, its buildings, and its music, and we will continue our exploration of this great city tomorrow.

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Sunday, June 7

Vienna, Austria

It was hard to get up this morning, and Carter and I

the white Lipizzan horses perform classical dressage.

were running later than I’d hoped as we headed for the

Their movements evolved over the centuries from

U-Bahn. But with a quick step and a little luck, we got

cavalry training for the battlefield. As the announcer

to the ticket “will call� counter of the Spanish Riding

explained, classical riding is the art of riding in

School fifteen minutes before the 11:00 performance.

harmony with, rather than against, the horse. Carter said

The venue, part of the Hofburg, is a beautiful hall

that he thought that it was a great combination of the

dating from 1735. We were enchanted as we watched

modern and the traditional.

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After the show, we had lunch at CafÊ Griensteidl nearby. I ordered a giant Wiener schnitzel but poor Carter got short-changed when he was served a child’s plate that was pretty skimpy for a growing boy.

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We walked over to the Museum Quarter but when we saw the Big Bus tour bus, we decided to hop on board instead.

The loop around the city took an hour and a half, and we sat upstairs at the front and enjoyed great views. Unfortunately, it was really hot up there.

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The Blue Danube

We hopped off the bus at the State Opera House. To the side of the building was a huge screen; chairs were set up in rows in front of it, in preparation for the simulcast of the last of Wagner’s Ring Cycle, Götterdämmerung (Twilight of the Gods).

We stopped for a snack at the Sacher Hotel. Of course, I had to try the famous Sacher Torte and Viennese coffee. Carter chose apple strudel and ice cream. He commented that the ice cream flavors in Vienna are almost too intense for his taste; I could understand what he meant.

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From there we walked to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Carter enjoyed the Egyptian, Classical Greek, and Roman rooms.

Upstairs I showed him the intriguing peasant paintings of Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder, whose 16th century works invite close inspection. The closer one looks, the more sinister the paintings become. We had now added art and cuisine to our Vienna experience.

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Playing with a whip

Stirring excrement with a stick

Mock Baptism

Hair Pulling

In Children’s Games, Pieter Bruegel was showing that children’s activities mock those of adults.

These so-called “games” are not always as fun and nice as they seem to be at first glance. Some 80 games have been identified here. Bruegel painted this in 1560, nearly 500 years ago.

Has much has changed since then?

A rock-paper-sissors game

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Passing through kicking legs

Child guesses how many fingers he was slapped with

“Bum Bouncing” Penalty

Pieter Bruegel Children’s Games 1560

When we came out of the museum, the Big Bus heading along the blue route was waiting, and once, again, we hopped aboard and found places at the front of the upper deck. This time, the loop took us around Schonbrunn Palace, the Arsenal, and the Belvedere.

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We wished we’d had more time, but it had been a long day already, and we walked to the U-Bahn as soon as the bus returned to the museum area.

By 6:30 we were back at the hotel. For dinner, we walked a short distance to Zur Alten Kaisermuhle, located on the Alte Donau, where we had a private table tucked at the end of the river’s edge. Our meal of ribs and fresh fish was really good and Carter and I had a wonderful evening, laughing together and sharing stories.

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Monday, June 8

Bratislava, Slovakia Since we had seen so much of Vienna, Carter and I decided to take a side trip to Bratislava, the capitol of Slovakia. Located only an hour outside of Vienna, Bratislava is small for a capitol city, with a half million inhabitants. We took the train, which carried us primarily through farmland that set me sneezing in both directions. When we arrived at Hlavna Stanica station, we hired a taxi to take us to Stare Mesto, the city’s historic district.

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Before doing anything else, we stopped for lunch at Primi,

commenting that each bottle he has ordered on the trip has

an appealing cafĂŠ across from the Museum of Pharmacy in

had a different design. I tried the local alibernet wine. The

the shadow of St. Michael’s Tower. We ordered a giant

front of the museum across from us looked intriguing with

platter of roasted chicken and vegetables that looked like it

its Gothic lettering and curvy wrought-iron design

was way too much when it was set before us, but which we

(including a lobster) and I was sorry that we were there on

managed to polish off easily. Carter had a Sprite,

a Monday, when the museums are closed.

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However, as we strolled along the labyrinthine cobblestone

noticed a lot of street sculpture along the way. Most of it

streets, we found a neat little antique shop down a narrow

was silly, including a pig dressed in armor and a mouse

alley, where I bought an old apothecary jar that looked as if

eating a giant ice cream cone. But we both liked the bronze

it belonged in the museum. At the main square, or HlavnĂŠ

workman just coming out of a manhole in front of a jewelry

NĂĄmestie, we enjoyed seeing the attractive buildings,

shop. As I was taking a picture of him, Carter noticed an

decorated and painted in a variety of pastel colors. We also

amber necklace in the shop window that was similar to one

noticed the detailed carving and metal work on many of

I had admired near our restaurant. He really liked it, and

the doors; we spotted several Green Men hiding amongst

encouraged me to go in and take a closer look. After some

the leaves. By then it was time for an ice cream break. This

negotiating, I bought it. I think he was pleased that I had

time, Carter had apple and lemon and I ordered vanilla and

followed his advice, and perhaps a little impressed at my

caramel. He said that he preferred Slovak ice cream,

bargaining skills. I know that I will think of Carter

perhaps because the flavors were not so intense. We

whenever I wear it.

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Hlavné Námestie

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As we walked back up the hill toward the tower, we found ourselves on lonely streets, the elegant buildings cracked and crumbling. Many of them were defaced with graffiti.

Just before 5:00, we returned to the station for the train to Vienna.

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When we walked into the hotel, Jen was standing in the doorway. She told us that we had five minutes to change for dinner. We were down in record time, and shared a taxi with Lindsay to Grinzing. Jen had made reservations for a celebratory dinner for her ICO team at Zum Martin Sepp. It was a long but festive evening with much discussion about wines and meal choices, made more complicated by the fact that it was Spargel Wochen (white asparagus season). Carter charmed the group completely.

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Tuesday, June 9

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to Stuttgart, Germany

While Jen tied up her final business at the European

got my bag down from the storage area, carried it from

Ophthalmology Congress, Carter and I finished packing

Track 13 to the train on Track 21, and set it down at my

and got ready to leave. We had a quick lunch across the

seat. Such acts of kindness are never forgotten. Thank

street from the hotel and were back in time to meet Jen

you, Ross from Houston, Texas. The two-hour ride to

and jump in a taxi to the Westbahnhof. From there, Jen

Stuttgart passed more picturesque villages, each with the

and Carter left for Hallstatt, a UNESCO-designated

distinctive onion-domed church that is typical of

cultural landscape dating to 2,000 years BC, and I went

southern Germany. It was just after 9:00 PM when the

ahead to Stuttgart to see Dagmar and Klaus for a few

train pulled into Stuttgart’s main station. Dagmar and

extra days. We will meet up again on Friday. My train

Klaus were there to meet me with hugs and laughs. It

departed at 2:30 to Munich, a four-hour trip though

was wonderful to see them again. Stuttgart looks just as

Salzburg that took us past mountain villages and rolling

it did three years ago when I was last here—still

green hills. Most of the chalet-styled buildings I saw had

completely torn up, as Klaus declared it would be for

flower boxes overflowing with color. The ICE train was

another ten years. They said they would be using

quiet and smooth; a monitor showed our speed, which

walkers by the time the downtown plan has been

was 230 km/hour in places. In Munich, I had to change

completed. Once home in Gerlingen, Klaus opened a

trains for Stuttgart. I am not sure how I would have ever

special bottle of Riesling, Dagmar set out meats and

managed to get my heavy bag from one train to the other

cheese, and we sat around the table and talked until

if it had not been for a solid young American guy who

midnight.

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Wednesday, June 10

Gerlingen, Germany

Although the bed was comfortable and the rolladen lowered

shopped for cheeses, meats, and desserts for the kids, I

to create a sleep-inducing cave, I had a restless night. I

roamed the aisles. After loading their purchases in the back

learned that Dagmar and Klaus had not slept well either;

of the car, we stopped for lunch in Lauterbourg. The

Klaus maintained that the white wine we had enjoyed last

attractive little village was virtually closed down today, but

night had set off our adrenalin. It was cloudy and cool; a

we found the Hotel du Cygne restaurant open. We all

London-like chill had replaced Vienna’s heat. Since Dagmar

ordered Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) with a small salad and a

wanted to buy some special foods for the weekend, Klaus

glass of local white wine. It felt wonderful to be in the

drove us to the nearest Carrefour store across the French

company of my friends again. We followed the B-10

border. We took the autobahn to Karlsruhe and crossed the

through Karlsruhe, where the Starks had their first

Rhine to the border village of Lauterbourg; Carrefour is

apartment. They pointed out the modern city that has

located in nearby Scheibenhard. While Dagmar and Klaus

grown up since they lived there more than forty years ago.

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The drive took us along the Bertha Benz Memorial Drive, route of the world's first long distance road trip. Bertha’s husband, Karl Benz, had patented the first automobile designed to produce its own power in January 1886. In early August 1888, without her husband's knowledge, Bertha, with her young sons Richard and Eugen, drove in Benz's newly-constructed automobile from Mannheim to Pforzheim, a distance of 65 miles. She thus became the first person to drive an automobile more than a very short distance. Although the ostensible purpose of her trip was to visit her mother, Bertha proved to her husband that his automobile had the potential to become a financial success.

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“No cake is no solution”

In Rutesheim, we stopped for coffee and lemony quark cake at Café Philippin before returning home.

Needless to say, there were no big appetites for dinner; the three of us had a light supper and turned in early.

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Thursday, June 11

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Gerlingen, Germany

I awoke to a cool sunny morning; the birds were singing

to decide which ones to buy. We also visited a butcher

in Dagmar’s rose garden. Klaus and I had breakfast

shop that would have made Jake’s mouth water. Back at

together while Dagmar went for a beauty treatment.

home, we prepared for Dagmar’s guests to sit outside at

When she returned, we drove to Ditzingen to buy cakes

the table in the garden. Her friends arrived at 3:30: Heti,

for this afternoon’s coffee party. This once rough town,

Lili, Christine Beerbaum, and Gisela Grünwald. It was

eight miles from Stuttgart, has grown into a lovely little

great to see them again after the three years since my last

village as a result of the money generated by several large

visit. Conversation floated back and forth between

companies that have located there, including Trumpf, one

German and English. Klaus returned soon after we

of the world’s biggest manufacturers of machine tools.

gathered, bringing Hanna Sophie, while Vivi was having

Half-timbered buildings have been restored and winding

her hair cut. She is almost one and is an adorable baby.

bike paths created. Dagmar told me that she and Klaus

The afternoon passed quickly and after the guests left,

like to ride their bikes there and stop for coffee and cake

Dagmar and I sat outside and talked. Those are the

at one of the cafés that line the cobblestone street. The

conversations that I so look forward to and treasure long

Konditorei was a showcase of amazing cakes; it was hard

after they are over.

An afternoon with old friends Gisela GrĂźnwald Heti Lutz Christine Beerbaum Lilli Kuschnir Dagmar Stark

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One of my Stuttgart friends whom I was particularly happy to see at Dagmar’s party was Christine Beerbaum. Since the last time I saw her, she had lost her beloved husband, Fred, to cancer. I have known Christine nearly as long as I have known Dagmar, and although her English is not much better than my German, we have always had a deep understanding of each other. Her words of appreciation for my friendship and the gift of my Hearts book that brought Fred such pleasure towards the end of his life needed no translation. And her gift to me of one of Fred’s paintings is a precious memento of a brave and elegant man.

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Friday, June 12

Gerlingen

This morning Dagmar and I walked from the village along a short footpath to the home of Gisela GrĂźnwald to see her enchanting oil paintings. Her subjects are primarily scenes of the south of France and flowers. At one time, she painted porcelain rather than canvas. I have several pieces of Ludwigsburg porcelain that she painted for me long ago when I lived in Stuttgart, featuring flowers, insects, and butterflies. Lovely examples of her work were recently gathered into a perpetual calendar called Mood Paintings. We enjoyed seeing her work and sitting outside on her balcony, surrounded by the flowers and butterflies that provide her inspiration.

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We returned to the house to get the car, as we were to meet Christine Klug at CafĂŠ Alte Kanzlei, one of the few places I still recognize in downtown Stuttgart. Christine was a favorite friend when I lived in Stuttgart in the mid-1980s and it was lovely to sit outside on the square, under an umbrella, and catch up with the last three years. After lunch, Dagmar and I went to Breuninger, the Stuttgart-based department store that is a must-stop for me. We both came away with several pretty blouses and tops, made in Germany. It is always such a treat to shop there.

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On the way home, Dagmar stopped so that I could run in to a little shop with the sign, “Antiquitäten, Kitsch, Kunst, Trödel.” I think that I will always be seeking those happy days of antiquing in Germany, but I am afraid those times are gone. No one is collecting the way we did. I think that this shop had not been cleaned or tidied since the time when I lived here. It was piled high with junk, much of it teetering ominously over my head. Somewhere in the piles, I found a little old man who was the proprietor. I hoped to find some tiny treasure to remind me of those earlier days. I left with a small working lock and key that looks a couple of hundred years old.

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After a supper of bread, meat, and cheese in the garden, Klaus and I went to the train station to meet Jen and Carter. Their ICE train arrived from Munich just after 10:00. Carter was wearing a FC Bayern Munich ensemble that they had bought at the Mega Store at the Allianz Arena.

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And what were Jen and Carter doing while I was in Stuttgart?

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Tuesday, June 9

Hallstatt, Austria

While I traveled to Stuttgart, Carter and Jen took the train

rather than in an annex that was farther away. They

to Achtang Puchheim and changed to Hallstatt, arriving

enjoyed a walk around the village as the fog was rolling in.

late in the afternoon. At the station, they went by boat over

Dinner that night was at the Seehotel GrĂźner Baum, where

to this UNESCO village. Carter said that the trip was chilly

Carter had roast pork with potato dumplings and

and cloudy, but very pretty. They checked into the

sauerkraut that he said was delicious. Jen enjoyed the local

Heritage Hotel, which he said was very nice although they

smoked trout and a nice Riesling. When they came back to

wished that they could have stayed in the main building

the hotel, they watched some of the Women’s World Cup.

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Hallstatt 68

Wednesday, June 10

to Munich, Germany

Before they left Hallstatt, Jen and Carter walked around

miles an hour, which he said was close to the correct speed,

the village and bought some gifts, stopping for lunch at an

according to the guide. They visited the Charnel House,

outside cafĂŠ. Jen said that the fish, fresh from the

located in a chapel in the basement of the 12th century

Hallstätter See, was delicious; Carter opted for spaghetti.

Church of St. Michael. The Hallstatt Bone House is one of

They walked to the funicular that took them up more than

most remarkable collections of painted skulls anywhere.

850 meters to the 7,000-year-old Salzwelten, the oldest salt

They took the little boat back to the village, and then went

mine in the world. It also boasts the longest underground

by train to Rosenheim, Germany, where Jen’s friend

slide. Carter reported that he was clocked going almost 35

Cordula picked them up at the station.

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Thursday, June 11

Munich, Germany

In the morning, Jen and Carter walked through pretty

construction with inflated fluorine-based plastic panels, it is

Ebersburg Market Square, where they passed the Rathaus,

the first stadium in the world with a total color-changing

or town hall, once a monastery tavern. Cordula took them

exterior. Carter left the Mega Store with a full uniform, ball,

to see the Eisbach surfers, lined up to catch a wave in this

candy, and a gift for his friend Tommy. Returning to the

“ice brook” in the middle of Munich. Caused by an

city, they had lunch in a Biergarten near the Marienplatz,

engineering flaw, the popular spot is for experienced

Munich’s main square since 1158. They climbed the 300

surfers only, since the fast current in combination with the

steps of the Neues Rathaus tower where they saw its famous

concrete baffles can be a threat to board and body. From

Glockenspiel, consisting of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures.

there they took the U-Bahn to Allianz Arena, the home of

Every day, it chimes and re-enacts two stories from the 16th

FC Bayern Munich. The VIP tour, arranged by Cordula,

century. That night, Cordula and her family treated Jen and

was a real highlight for Carter. Widely known for its

Carter to a picnic and swim at the lake.

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Friday, June 12

to Stuttgart, Germany

After breakfast at the Obermaier’s house, they drove though

of Frauenchiemsee, they visited the Benedictine monastery,

Wasserberg to Prien, located on the Chiemsee, Bavaria’s

which dates from the 8th century. After stopping for lunch,

largest lake. Jen and Carter took the ferry out to Herren to

they walked to the other side of the island where they went

see the royal residence of King Ludwig II of Bavaria

for a swim. They enjoyed seeing the sailboats on the lake

(1845-1886). The opulent buildings are the culmination of his

and checking out the art galleries in the village. The ferry

legacy of architecture and art and are among Germany’s

brought them back to Prien and from there, they returned to

most important tourist attractions. At the neighboring island

Ebersberg for the train to Stuttgart.

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Saturday, June 13

Back together in Gerlingen, Germany

We had a lazy morning, sleeping until after 9:00. Carter and I

and Em at the grocery store. We were passed several times by

went to get his glasses fixed, and after dropping them at the

a horse wagon; at one point it stopped near us and Dagmar

optik, we joined Dagmar and Jen and went to the Saturday

encouraged us to climb aboard for a little tour of the village.

market in the town square. While Dagmar shopped for treats

She pointed out the soccer playground and skateboard park

for this evening’s dinner, Jen and I bought local rapeseed

located across from the swimming pool. They really do have

flower honey. We also found Ritter Sport chocolate for Mike

all that they need, only a few steps from home.

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Returning home, we waited for the rest of the Stark Family to arrive. Anselm and his three boys, Kilian, Marwin, and Esken came first. Soon after came Wilko, Julia, and their three children, Alexia, Emmy, and Henrik; followed by Eike and Anna with Maxi and Lottie. Finally came Vivi and little Hanna (Benni had gone fishing). What a crowd nine grandchildren make! All the kids were running and tumbling over each other. I was quite pleased with myself that I managed to get everyone to pose for a family photo.

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Carter, Jen, and I decided to leave the family to spend time with each other and accepted an offer from Dagmar to drive us to the Mercedes Museum. It is a remarkable combination of history, architecture, and beautiful automobiles. More than a chronicle of the Mercedes-Benz Company, the museum offers a cultural history of Europe. And the views of the stadium and arena, surrounding vineyards, and the Stuttgart environs were breathtaking. Our only disappointment was that the simulator was closed by the time we got to the lower level.

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We treated ourselves to a taxi back to Gerlingen, arriving just in time for a traditional dinner of maultaschen and German potato salad, again served in the garden. Anselm and the older boys were there, and I enjoyed the opportunity to get to know Kilian and Marwin.

Later, the generations separated: the younger kids went up to Wilko’s home; Kilian and Marwin headed off to call their friends; the young adults congregated at the neighborhood Biergarten.

Klaus, Dagmar, and I sat around together and chatted late into the evening.

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Sunday, June 14-Monday, June 15

Gerlingen and Home

At 9:00, we left the house for Stadtkirche zu Ludwigburg

play park where the kids took off in every direction and

for the baptism of Hanna Sophie Köhler, daughter of

the adults sat on benches and talked together. At four

Vivianne Stark and Benni Köhler. Hanna is the ninth

o’clock, we walked back to the hotel where a special cake

grandchild of Dagmar and Klaus Stark, and the daughter

was served, in honor of Hanna Sophie. The afternoon

of their youngest child. Hanna’s godparents are Anselm

came to a close when Eike and his family returned to

Stark, Vivi’s brother, and Angela Köhler, Benni’s sister.

Cologne and Wilko and Julia and their three children

The service lasted an hour, with the baptism at the end.

headed home. Dagmar and Klaus drove Carter, Jen, and

Hanna was one of five babies to be baptized that

me back to the condo, followed by Anselm and his boys.

morning, but she assuredly had the most family members

Carter was delighted when Klaus offered to take anyone

present. Although the priest, Elke Dangelmaier-Vinçon,

who was interested swimming at an indoor pool facility.

conducted the service in German, she gave a kind

The boys all went and did not return until after I had

welcome to me in English. After the service, the family

gone to bed, since my alarm was set for 3:00AM. Klaus

walked a short distance past Ludwigburg Palace to the

drove me to the airport for my 6:00 Air Berlin turboprop

Nestor Hotel, where the patio had been reserved for the

to Düsseldorf. From there, I connected with American

Stark family celebration. We spent a leisurely afternoon

Airlines 241 to Chicago, arriving a couple of hours late

there, enjoying excellent food and wine, watching the

amidst raging thunderstorms. Jen and Carter left a few

children running around the grounds, and chatting with

hours after I did, flying back to Washington. I know how

one another. After dessert, we all walked to the nearby

excited Carter and Jen were to see Rowen again!

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Stadtkirche zu Ludwigburg

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Wilko and Julia

Anselm

Eike and Anna 93

The Stark Grandchildren Kilian Marwin Esken Alexia Emilie Henrik Maxi Lotte Hanna

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Carter and Esken

A journal kept by Susan Hanes for her grandson, Carter Houston Hanes during a trip they made to Austria and Germany from June 5-June 15, 2015. Photos by Susan Hanes with contributions by Jen and Carter Hanes. copyright 2015.

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