2014 More than Appalachia 2

More than Appalachia 2

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip following the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and along the Ohio River from June 23-29, 2014. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2014.

Cover: Pot still cover, Woodford Reserve Distillery

More than Appalachia 2 June 23-29, 2014 We drove west from the Appalachian Mountains towards central Kentucky. Its rolling meadows, limestone-filtered streams, and hardwood forests have long provided ideal conditions for raising thoroughbred horses and for producing classic Kentucky bourbon. While we continued to trace the Ohio River from Cincinnati to Louisville and to visit towns that grew up along its banks, we also followed the Bourbon Trail to ten distilleries where we learned about whiskey making and developed our taste and appreciation for Kentucky bourbon.

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Monday, June 23

to Bardstown, KY

We entered Kentucky’s Combs Mountain Parkway in Rogers

anchored by Lexington, Louisville, and Bardstown. None of

and headed west. Reached the pretty town of Midway and

the distilleries are more than 80 miles apart. The eight

enjoyed a scenic drive through rolling pastures in horse and

additional small distilleries that promote their Craft Tour do

bourbon country, the narrow road lined with wooden fences

not significantly expand the tour area. We were to visit all

and shady trees. The seven Kentucky distilleries whose sites

eight sites associated with The Bourbon Trail plus two

comprise the Bourbon Trail are concentrated in a triangle

additional distilleries.

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By law, bourbon does not need to be produced in

distilled, usually in a two-step process: first in a

Kentucky. However, it must be made from a mash

continuous or column still and then in a pot still. The

containing at least 51% corn, distilled at less than 160

colorless distillate that is produced, called “white dog,”

proof, aged at least two years in new, charred oak

is placed in new charred oak barrels and warehoused

barrels, and bottled at between 80 and 125 proof.

for at least two and up to twelve or more years to

Distilling bourbon whiskey involves creating a recipe,

mature. Variations in bourbon taste and quality arise

or “mash bill,” of crushed grains that are heated with

from different mash bills, proprietary yeast

water to convert some of their starch to sugar. The

formulations, the aging period, warehousing or

mash bill usually consists of about 75% corn, 8%

“ricking” procedures, blending decisions, and the

malted barley, with the remainder being wheat or rye

proof at which the whiskey is bottled. Some whiskey

or a combination of both. The use of wheat is

warehouses are temperature controlled but others use

generally characterized as producing a softer and

the change of seasons to effect aging. Some distillers

sweeter taste, while rye produces a spicier taste. After

move the barrels to different floors during the aging

the grain mash reduces to a tepid temperature, yeast

process, while others keep them in the same place

is added and a fermentation process progresses over

the entire time. Distillers frequently market “small

several days until an alcohol level of about eight

batch” and “single barrel” variations of their bourbon

percent is reached. The fermented mash is then

at higher prices.

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In Versailles, we toured Woodford Reserve, one of Kentucky’s oldest distilleries.

Woodford traces its origins back to 1797 when Elijah Pepper began distilling in Woodford County. It is now owned by BrownForman in Louisville, the firm that also owns Jack Daniels. We learned that they wanted to revive old production methods and added a third, copper pot still to the distillation process. Their mash bill uses 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% malted barley. Woodford Reserve markets their bourbon as small batch or single barrel brands.

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In Frankfort, we toured Buffalo Trace Distillery. They claim to be the oldest continuously-operating distillery in the United States and are now owned by the Sazerac Company of New Orleans. Its rather frenetic operation takes place in a series of historic old warehouses. Buffalo Trace uses two mash bills for their bourbon: one has less than 10% rye, and one has 12-15% rye. Their low rye bourbon labels include Eagle Rare, Col. E. H. Taylor, and Buffalo Trace. The higher rye labels are Ancient Age, Blanton’s, and Hancock’s Reserve. They also produce a wheated mash bill for W. L. Weller and Pappy Van Winkle.

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Following our practice of touring state legislative buildings, we visited Frankfort’s Capitol. There were extensive security procedures to enter the building. It is interesting how varied these processes have been from state to state: from virtually non-existent, to very thorough. The building, constructed of white marble in 1910, is in the Beaux-Arts style. One unique feature is that the dome changes colors.

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Kentucky State Capitol

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We reached Bardstown around 5:00 and found the

suggested that we go elsewhere, but we wanted to

Bourbon Marketplace on Capitol Street. We settled

try the local dishes listed on their menu. The minute

in with Tom the bartender who shared his

we walked in, we realized that the place was

knowledge of bourbon and gave us tastes of several

tourist-tacky. Besides, they were out of the local

labels. We sampled and chatted with him until

Home Brown that we had wanted to try. Our cups

closing time, and made several whiskey purchases

of spicy Burgoo soup were nice, but the rest of the

to take home. We had dinner reservations at the

meal was mediocre. After our afternoon on the

historic Old Talbott Tavern at 7:00; Tom had

Bourbon Trail, we made it an early evening.

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Tuesday, June 24 to Shepherdsville, KY Day two on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail began with a drive through fields of corn and wheat to Maker’s Mark, located near Loretto, KY. Production began in 1954 when Bill Samuels bought the distillery, which today is owned by the Japanese firm of Beam Suntory. The distillery’s distinctive black buildings with red shuttered windows are in a peaceful park setting. On the tour, we learned that red winter wheat is used in the mash bill and that rye is not used at all. In addition to their main label, they have recently developed Maker’s 46, aged longer in barrels to which additional charred staves have been inserted. In the tasting room, we sampled a flight of four whiskeys: the unaged “white dog,” a fully matured Maker’s Mark, an over-matured Maker’s Mark, and Maker’s 46.

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Following a social-media protest from its customers, Maker's Mark has reversed its decision to lower the alcohol content of its bourbon to 84 proof.

This happened more than six months ago, but our guide was still fielding questions.

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Located just south of Bardstown, Willett is an independent, family-owned distilley that is one of eight small distilleries on the Craft Bourbon Trail. It has been in production since 1936. It was fun to see the process on a smaller scale and to taste some of their small batch bourbons including Pot Still Reserve, Johnny Drum, and at 114 proof, Noah’s Mill.

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Also in Bardstown, we visited the Bourbon Heritage Center at Heaven Hill Distilleries and walked through displays of the history, heritage, and lore of bourbon making.

Heaven Hill was originally established in 1934 and today has the second largest inventory of aging Kentucky Bourbon. Their brands include such labels as Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, and Parker’s Heritage Small Batch.

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In Claremont, we visited the granddad of them all, Jim Beam, who advertises, “You come as friends, and leave as family.” The distillery has been in business for 200 years, through seven generations. We were told that Jim Beam is the largest distillery in Kentucky. It certainly produces a dizzying variety of labels. By the time we called it a day, I felt I was developing a real appreciation for bourbon’s history and taste. We had difficulty finding a room for the night because the large number of teams competing in the Youth Baseball Nationals Tournament in nearby Elizabethtown had nearly exhausted available rooms in the area. We were fortunate to find a room at the Best Western in Shepherdsville, a short distance from Louisville.

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Wednesday, June 25

to Lawrenceburg, IN

We were on I-65 by 9:00, but rush hour traffic delayed our arrival in Louisville for an hour. After walking historic Main Street and admiring its concentration of cast iron buildings, we arrived at the Evan Williams Experience in time for an 11:00 tour of their new facility.

Celebrating the legacy of Evan Williams, Kentucky's first distiller, the multi-media tour is intended to bring to life the history and tradition of Kentucky bourbon. Evan Williams is one of Heaven Hill Distillery’s brands. At the end of the tour, we tasted Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage, and Larceny, a small batch blend. I was informed that the warmth that travels down into the throat after a sip of bourbon is called a Kentucky Hug. We were told that there are more barrels of bourbon aging in Kentucky than the number of people and horses combined. Before we left town, I made a quick visit to the Louisville Slugger Museum.

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Louisville, Kentucky

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Crossing the bridge from Louisville to Indiana brought us to the Ohio River Scenic Byway. We followed the Byway from Louisville towards Cincinnati, driving through a series of historic river towns including Madison, Vevay, Patriot, Rising Sun, and Aurora to Lawrenceburg where we were able to get the last room at a Holiday Inn Express. We had dinner at Whisky’s, a rib place that appeared to be popular with the locals but was only OK. Their “famous” peanut slaw did not work for us and the ribs were steamed and too sweet. After dinner, we drove to the city center and enjoyed lovely evening views of the river, in spite of the huge power plants in the distance. We would have started our trip back to Chicago tomorrow, but received the sad news of the sudden death of my cousin, Gene Monroe, in Huntsville, Alabama. We will adjust our plans in order to be in Huntsville on Friday evening.

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Madison, Indiana

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Vevay, Indiana

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Aurora, Indiana

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Lawrenceburg, Indiana

Thursday, June 26

to Elizabethtown, KY

Followed IN 50 for 30 miles to Cincinnati, passing a large Cargill food processing plant. As we searched for a place to photograph the 1867 John Roebling Suspension Bridge, we drove by the Paul Brown Bengals Stadium and the Great American Ball Park of the Reds, both completed in the 2000s. Crossed over the bridge to Covington, KY to get photos with the Cincinnati skyline in the background. As we positioned ourselves at the riverfront, I heard a rushing sound, and the Blue Angels zoomed over our heads. We were told by other viewers that they were giving a flyover to Cincinnati on their way to the Dayton Air Show.

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We crossed back to Ohio and were at the door of the Cincinnati Art Museum when it opened at 11:00.

An impressive Hall of Icons featured some of the highlights of the collection, including a pair of Memling panels, an Ingres portrait, an Indian Nataraja, and a Robert Valentien-designed Rookwood vase from 1893. We were particularly impressed by the Museum’s collections of paintings, ceramics, and furniture made by Cincinnatians. Frank Duveneck (1848-1919) was especially significant and I liked his paintings very much. A special exhibit highlighted the prominent role of silver manufactured in the city between 1788-1940.

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The Cincinnati Museum’s Hall of Icons 56

The Rookwood Pottery Company

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“Cincinnati! What is there in the atmosphere of Cincinnati that has so thoroughly awakened these sorts of sculpture and painting? It cannot be mere accident which gives birth to so many artists, all of distinguished merit, too…”

— New York Star, 1840

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In the early afternoon, we were on our way back to Lexington.

Since we didn’t need to be in Huntsville until tomorrow, we decided to complete the Kentucky Bourbon Trail by visiting the final three distilleries listed in my tour passport. In Lexington, we stopped briefly at the Lexington Brewing and Distilling Company, maker of Town Branch, an awardwinning bourbon and the newest member of the Trail.

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Four Roses in Lawrenceville was established in 1888 and is now owned by the Kirin Company of Japan. The distillery was built in 1910 in a Spanish Mission-style and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Four Roses is the only bourbon distillery that combines five proprietary yeast strains with two separate mash bills to produce ten distinct bourbon recipes. The highlight of the visit for me was meeting Master Distiller Jim Rutledge, who inscribed a small red flask for me.

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Wild Turkey, owned by the Italian Campari Group, is also located in Lawrenceville. This was our tenth and final stop on the Trail. Boomer was our enthusiastic guide of this state-of-the-art distillery.

Unfortunately, no production was going on late in the day when we were there and there was not a lot to see. We tasted both Russell’s Reserve and Rare Breed, and I tried American Honey, which I thought was dreadful. However, with the tour of Wild Turkey, I had filled my Bourbon Trail Passport with the stamps that entitled me to a tee shirt. As we drove south on the Bluegrass Parkway, I called the Hampton Inn in Elizabethtown, and was surprised that they had an available room. The Youth Baseball National Championship games are this evening and the losing teams have already left town. If the team from Lakeland, Florida that is staying in the Inn wins tonight, we may hear celebrations later.

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Friday - Sunday June 27-29

Huntsville, AL to Chicago, IL

We took the Blue Ridge Parkway to Bowling Green and picked up I-65 to Nashville. Drove to Huntsville via the historic town of Mooresville, established in 1805 and thus older than Alabama, which did not become a state until 1819. Had planned to have lunch at the Limestone Bay Trading Company in Mooresville where we ate last year when we were in Huntsville, but it was closed. Checked into the Embassy Suites at 1:00 and used the down time to get organized. Arrived at Jane Monroe’s home around 5:00. Em and Al were already there. Jane’s son, Bob, and his wife, Robin, and their boys, John and William, came soon after. Later in the evening we were joined by Buck Monroe, whom I have not seen for more than 50 years. Shared an excellent Southern dinner of dishes brought by friends offering their condolences.

Saturday The family gathered at Jane’s home this morning at 9:15 and we drove together to Maple Hill Cemetery for the graveside service for Gene. It was a beautiful day; a large group gathered around the family plot while their old friend and minister, Dr. William Bostick, gave a moving tribute to this fine and gentle man who did so much for Huntsville. I am glad that Jake and I visited Jane and Gene last April; I will always remember Gene as all that is best in the South.

Spent the afternoon visiting with friends and family gathered for a buffet luncheon at Jane’s house. In the late afternoon, Jane, my mother, Al, Jake and I returned to the cemetery to see Gene’s grave, covered with flowers. As we walked among the headstones, we shared stories of family members, and remembered those buried there. Mother and I placed a single white rose on the nearby grave of her mother and my grandmother, Susie Skinner McDowall. Mother looked at me and said softly, “She would have loved you.”

Sunday We left early and had an uneventful nine-hour drive back to Chicago. As we drove along the Chicago lakefront towards home, it was good to see so many people out enjoying a perfect summer Sunday afternoon.

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Itinerary Monday

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Breakfast: Hampton Inn Route: KY 15 to Rogers; Combs Mountain Parkway, I 64 and US 80 to Versailles; US 60 to Frankfort; US 127 and I 69 to Bardstown Sites: Midway; Versailles: Woodford Reserve distillery; Frankfort: Buffalo Trace distillery, Kentucky State Capitol; Bardstown: historic downtown Activities: Woodford Reserve tour; Buffalo Trace tour Drinks: Kentucky Bourbon Marketplace Dinner: Old Talbott Tavern Comfort Inn: Room 124

BARDSTOWN, KY Tuesday

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213 miles

Route: KY 49 and KY 527 to Loretto and return; KY 245 and I 65 to Shepherdstown Sites: Loretto: Maker’s Mark distillery; Bardstown: Willett distillery, Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center; Claremont: Jim Beam distillery Activities: Maker’s Mark tour; Willett tour; Jim Beam tour Dinner: Shepherdsville: Denny’s Diner Best Western Plus South: Room 139

SHEPHERDSVILLE, KY

75 miles

Wednesday 25 Breakfast: Best Western Plus South Route: I 65 to Louisville; IN 62, IN 56 and IN 156 to Lawrenceburg Sites: Louisville: Main Street, Evan Williams Experience, Louisville Slugger Museum; Ohio River Scenic Byway: Madison, Vevay, Patriot, Rising Sun, Aurora, Lawrenceburg Dinner: Whisky’s Restaurant Holiday Inn Express: Room 223 LAWRENCEBURG, IN 76

96 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Holiday Inn Express Route: IN 50 to Cincinnati; I 75 to Lexington; US 60 and I 69 to Lawrenceburg and Elizabethtown Sites: Cincinnati: John A. Roebling Bridge, Paul Brown Stadium (Bengals), Great American Ball Park (Reds), Cincinnati Art Museum; Lexington: Lexington Brewing and Distilling Company; Lawrenceburg; Four Roses distillery, Wild Turkey distillery Activities:, Four Roses tour; Wild Turkey tour Dinner: Elizabethtown: Namaste Indian Restaurant Hampton Inn: Room 306

ELIZABETHTOWN, KY Friday

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281 miles

Breakfast: Hampton Inn Route: I 65 to Bowling Green, KY, Nashville, TN and Decatur, AL; I 565 to Huntsville Dinner: Jane Monroe’s home Embassy Suites: Room 610

HUNTSVILLE, AL

Saturday

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274 miles

Breakfast: Embassy Suites Sites: Maple Hill cemetery Activities: Gene Monroe funeral Lunch and Dinner: Jane Monroe’s home Embassy Suites

HUNTSVILLE, AL Sunday

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5 miles

Breakfast: Embassy Suites Route: AL 53; I 65 to Nashville; I 24 to US 41; Pennyrile Parkway to Evansville; US 41 and IN 63 to I 94 Dinner: Schererville, IN: Five Guys Burgers and Fries Home

CHICAGO, IL

556 miles 77

Š 2014 Susan Hanes