2012 The Byzantines & the Balkans 6

The Byzantines & The Balkans 6

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a six-week trip to Southeastern Europe from May 9 ~ June 21, 2012. Photos

by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2012. V. 6

The Byzantines & The Balkans May 9 ~ June 21, 2012 A

museum is not about people who have died. It is about life. It's about the individual life, how it was lived.

It's about the corporate life of our times, men and women organizing their societies. It's about the continuing life of the species Homo sapiens. No one with any human curiosity can dislike a museum. ~ P. D. James, The Murder Room

V. 6 Hungary, Austria, & Germany

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Friday, June 15

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Budapest, Hungary

No coffee to be found at breakfast so we got an early start, driving west toward Budapest. Our last site in Romania was the Merry Cemetery (Cimitirul Vesel) at Sapanta, 20 kilometers from Sighetu. The cemetery was started in the mid-1930s when local folk artist Stan Ioan Patras carved and painted hundreds of wooden crosses to mark the graves of deceased villagers. On the upper part of each is a bas-relief scene that describes something important about the life of the departed (good or bad). Below is a clever poem or epitaph that is, unfortunately, only in Romanian. The cross is then decorated with folk motifs and painted bright colors, particularly blue. There are more than 800 of these graves in the Merry Cemetery, as Stan’s apprentice took over the project after Stan’s own death. Although the crosses are bright and naïve, they are deeply affecting by showing what the lives of these people were like. Our route took us close to the border with the Ukraine; saw that road signs were in both Russian and Romanian. Drove through foggy woods over Huta Pass; as we neared Satu Mare, the sun reappeared. Crossed the Hungarian border at 12:15, promptly gaining back an hour. It took only a few minutes for border officials to check our passports and we were on our way. The land was flat, rich farmland; healthy-looking crops lined both sides of the road.

Noticed how well tended the villages were that we drove through. Horse carts were on the road, but were different: higher and boxier than the long, low carts we’d seen in Romania. Also noticed that the church steeples were different; several even had interesting weather vanes. Drove on a brand-new autoroute most of the way into Budapest; Marishka got us through the busy streets of this magnificent city and to the Artotel, overlooking the river on the Buda side. Were given an upgrade and have a sleek, spacious room with a view of the Parliament buildings.

It feels like we are truly back in Western Europe again. Dinner across the bridge in Pest at Bock Bisztro, a Michelin Bib restaurant that had a great wine list and a lively ambience.

The Merry Cemetery

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Budapest UNESCO

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Saturday, June 16

Budapest, Hungary

Our goal today was to see as much of Budapest as we could in the one full day we have here. Jake threw open the curtains to brilliant sunshine, even before 6:00. After talking to the concierge, decided to purchase one-day Budapest Cards as an economical way to get around the city and visit the museums.

Trotted off to the Metro and used our cards to get to the Parliament area on the other side of the Danube in Pest.

Hopped back on and took the original Metro One to Varosliget, the giant park behind Heroes Square, where the concierge had told us about a Saturday antiques market. It was nearly a mile long walk through the park to the market, and Jake was a good, although a bit skeptical, sport. It was a disaster.

Sweltering, to begin with, and full of nothing but junk: old shoes, cheap sunglasses, secondhand toys, books in Hungarian —not one thing the least bit tempting. Jake found himself a spot in the shade and I made a 15-minute round of the stalls before calling it quits. Retraced the way back through the huge park to historic Heroes Square where we visited the Museum of Fine Arts; discovered that the free admission to museums that was promised with our cards was in reality a 10% discount.

That means that our Budapest Cards bought us some very expensive Metro rides. Nonetheless we enjoyed the museum’s collections, particularly the Greek pieces and several paintings by both Brueghels. Back on the Metro One, we got off at Opera. The stations on the old line are beautifully tiled and wood-trimmed; the line opened in 1896 and is part of 8

Budapest’s UNESCO listing. After taking photos of the Opera building, walked down Andrassy utca, looking in the windows of the fashion boutiques along the way. At St. Stephen’s Basilica, paid an admission to see it, but once inside the door, discovered that a wedding was in progress and the nave was roped off. Continued toward the river, passing the beautiful old Geller Hotel (now a Four Seasons), and dodged bicycles as we crossed the Szechenyi Lanchid, the bridge to the base of Buda Castle. Took the funicular up to the Castle District (also part of UNESCO’s Budapest listing) and enjoyed magnificent views of the Danube, the bridge, Parliament, and the stunning architecture below, over the best frosty lemonade we’d ever had. Somewhat revived, we toured the Hungarian National Gallery and were impressed at the breadth of Hungarian art there from the 15th to the 20th century. Walked around the palace area and down the baroque Tancsics Mihaly utca to Mattias Church, where another wedding precluded our going inside. Instead we sat in the shade of the monument across the street and admired the soaring towers and intricately tiled roof.

Eventually we gathered enough strength to return to the funicular, descend, and walk back to the hotel. Had an hour to rest up before returning to the Castle District for our dinner reservations at Fortuna utca 21, a Michilin Bib on another evocative baroque street. Sat outside and enjoyed the evening air over Hungarian traditional dishes and local wine. We will sleep well tonight.

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Heroes Square

Museum of Fine Arts 17

The Opera

Basilica of St. Stephen

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The old Geller Hotel

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Szechenyi Lanchid Bridge

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View from the Castle

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Mattias Church 30

Sunday, June 17

Vienna, Austria

Got an early start, stopping for breakfast on the M1 autobahn and making good time for the 230 kilometers to Vienna in spite of being stopped for not having a road tax sticker. We had not seen any indication that it was needed or offered: a costly 120 euro mistake. Arrived at the Radisson Blu on Herrenstrasse before noon and got into our room immediately. As most of the museums are closed on Mondays, Jake was anxious for us to do as much as we could today. Walked through the stately Hapsburg Courtyards to the Kunst Historisches Museum. I can think of no other museum in the world with any richer collection: entire rooms of Velasquez, Brueghel, Titian, as well as three Caravaggios, and countless other historic works of art.

Spent a couple of hours there; only wish it had been cooler. We have been surprised at the lack of air conditioning in most of the museums we have visited on this trip. Walked to the Academy of Fine Arts, where we had a three-floor climb to the Gemaldegalerie, We wanted see the Hieronymus Bosch triptych, The Last Judgment, itself worth the price of admission. Chairs were set up so that one could study the details of this amazing 32

work hung intimately in a room of its own; it made one realize that the question of right and wrong that we ponder today no different than it ever was. Nearby, we visited the Vienna Secession, a stunning building with a gold dome of leaves whose architecture represents the spirit of change that was occurring at the end of the 19th century when a group of artists led by Gustav Klimt started the movement. One of the most famous of their exhibitions was a show dedicated to Beethoven in 1902, for which Klimt created a 34 meter-long mural. In 1986 it was carefully reinstalled at the Secession, with a platform set up so that you can see it up close. After an afternoon of beautiful sights, we slowly walked back to the Hapsburg area, passing the glorious Opera House and the Spanish Riding School before stopping for a glass of wine outside at Café’ Griensteidl on Michaelerplatz. For dinner, taxied to the Schweizerhaus, a beer garden in a corner of the Prater, one of Vienna’s great parks.

Ordered the same thing everyone else was eating: schweinsstelze (a crusty port shank) with salads and big mugs of beer. Good stuff and truly authentic.

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Monday, June 18

Vienna, Austria

Took our time getting up and out today; I falsely concluded that we would slow down, now that we are nearing the end of our trip. Enjoyed coffee and brotchen at the same café where we’d stopped yesterday; the butter here is so good, I could eat it like cheese.

Passed through Hofburg Passage (where I’d noticed the Maria Stransky Petit Point shop earlier) to the Schatzkammer, or Imperial Treasury, a collection of 1,000 years of fabulous treasure amassed by the Hapsburgs, both royal regalia and ecclesiastical relics.

On to the Albertina, housing one of the most important master print collections in the world; immersed ourselves in iconic drawings by Durer, Rubens, and Michelangelo.

Walked up busy pedestrian streets to St. Stephen’s Cathedral; argued about whether the green man I found really counts as one. Then to Demel, chocolate maker since 1786; peeked into the busy kitchen but were unable to find a table, so walked on back to the hotel for a break. Ha! As soon as we plopped down on the bed, Jake got the idea that we needed to see the Leopold Museum. I was going to send him off on his own, but when we discovered that there was a special exhibition, Klimt Up Close and Personal, I decided to go with him. This time, we took a taxi, although it was a walkable distance, to conserve our energy. Ended up going through every floor of the museum. The Klimt show was beautifully done, with a line of display cabinets containing written documents sent by the artist to his companion, Emilie Floge. These expressed his feelings during stages of his life; drawings, photographs, and paintings were displayed in chronological order in conjunction with the documents. Wonderfully effective; just wish we’d had more time. On another floor, Vienna 1900 was a treat too, with paintings, objects, and furniture from the Jugendstill, Vienna’s Art Nouveau movement; examples of the Wiener Werkstatte were included, highlighting that exciting era of Viennese art. This evening we had dinner at Ofenloch, a cozy place in a location impossible to find; took us asking at three different places, even though we had a map. According to the menu, the building has been in existence since the 13th century when it was a Jewish bathhouse.

Nice meal at a tiny table under a vaulted ceiling; old murals covered the walls.

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral

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Gustav Klimt

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Egon Schiele

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Rudolf Kalvach

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Tuesday, June 19

Munich, Germany

On the road at 8:30; took more than 45 minutes to clear Vienna on a workday morning. Half an hour later, we arrived at Melk Monastery, a majestic baroque abbey whose origins date from the 10th century that crowns a rocky bluff overlooking the Danube. By the time we got there, we found ourselves in the midst of busloads of tours; decided that there was no way we would take a tour ourselves, and managed to stay just ahead of the lecture groups in the monastery museum. The library, with its collection of more than 100,000 books, was interesting, but the church was over the top with red pilasters complimenting a liberal use of gold leaf. I really do not care for baroque.

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Melk Monastery

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On the way out of the parking lot, saw a poster for an exhibition at nearby Schloss Schallaburg entitled The Golden Byzantium. Drove along the green countryside and parked below the castle; had a strenuous climb up the hill. The castle is set in a pleasant garden and has an appealing 16th century Renaissance arcaded courtyard with a profusion of terra cotta statures and ornaments. Although the show was in German (as well as the catalogue), there were enough translated wall signs to give us a sense of Byzantium in the context of its influence on the cultures of its neighbors. With artifacts on loan from other institutions, many in countries we had just visited, it was a fitting epilogue to trip. There were a number of elaborate pieces from Bulgaria, for example, as well as from

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Jake drove us along the Wachau, the fertile region that stretches from Melk to Krem for 35 kilometers along the Danube. It was a lovely drive along the river, past castles high on the rocks and vineyards climbing up the hills. We had planned to stop for lunch at a local gasthaus along the way before heading back to Munich and dropping off the car. But when I entered the address of the car office in the GPS, we were shocked to see that it was 200 kilometers further than we’d planned. So I had to settle for a nutrition bar in the car instead of that romantic lunch under a grape arbor as we drove to Munich on the crowded—and fast moving—autobahn.

Schloss Schallaburg

Five kilometers from the strange farm place that serves as the Auto Europe office, discovered that the road was closed due to construction. No one was around, and barriers blocked the way.

Tried to find another route, but could not. A couple of calls to the office only resulted in the fellow telling us to just go around them.

There we were, trying to move those heavy barriers enough to squeak the car by. At last we scooted them enough for Jake to inch through and over some metal and wood sheets that covered the construction work. After we turned over the keys and took care of the paperwork, the fellow dropped us off at the S-Bahn station at the airport. We lugged our bags on board for a hot and crowded 45-minute ride to Marienplatz; then up the escalator and down the street with our bags to the Platzl Hotel. Had beer and sausages at a shared table at the Weisses Brauhaus, a traditional Munich beer hall just off the Marienplatz. It was a relief to think that we had safely traveled 9555 kilometers, but we were too tired to celebrate. We will do that tomorrow when we meet Dagmar and Klaus for our last dinner before our flight home.

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Wednesday, June 20

Munich, Germany

Jake and I decided to do our own thing this last day of the trip, so after breakfast, he left for the Alte Pinakothek while I waited to meet the Starks. As they were driving in from Stuttgart, they were not sure when they would get here but I was happy to have some time to journal. Found a corner in the lobby and squirreled myself away to write for an hour until I saw them coming down the street. It was great to see them again and tell them about our travel adventures. We walked through the Marienplatz and went into the Frauenkirche, returning to see the Glockenspiel at the Rathaus at noon. Rambled among the booths at the Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s main food market, and stopped for lunch at Der Pschorr, within the market. Had a great

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time looking at the store windows. There are so many specialty shops in Munich: shops for sausages and for wood items and for brushes and for knives. Dagmar especially wanted to show me Dallmayr, an epicurean store every bit as lavish as Fauchon in Paris or the Harrods Food Halls. She was thrilled when we went up to the café on the second floor and found a table available.

While she and Klaus had coffee and pastries, I ordered a Bellini made with prosecco and Pfirsichmark, mashed fresh white peaches. Later we looked at the clothing boutiques; our shopping was successful thanks to Dagmar’s knowledge of the places to look for bargains. It is easy to see why Munich is such a favorite with Germans

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Marienplatz Then and Now

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We parted just before 5:00 with plans to meet for dinner at 7:00. I made it back to the hotel just as it started to rain and caught up with Jake.

The Starks were a little late, as they had gotten caught in the storm and totally soaked; we still had time, however, for a drink at the bar before we descended to the hotel’s 16th century cellar, the Pfistermuehle. We enjoyed a long and happy evening together in a corner paneled booth, sharing the tasting menu and excellent German wines.

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Thursday, June 21 Chicago Jake tried the local weisswurst at breakfast: it was grandly presented under a dome. Seemed a bit much for the way I was feeling this morning and I went with a bowl of yoghurt and tea. Flawless checkout; rolled our bags to the Marienplatz S-Bahn station and were on our way to the airport by 9:40. All went smoothly and we encountered no lines at security or passport control; were at the gate in plenty of time for our United 907 flight direct to Chicago. Upon arrival at O’Hare, it was shades of Delhi, with a giant line way down the hall for passport control; it took us almost two hours to clear. At last we were home, facing the piles of mail and laundry that are always waiting after a long trip, along with the satisfying feeling of having accomplished something truly remarkable.

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UNESCO Sites Albania 1. Historic Centre of Berat 2. Historic Centre of Gjirokastra Austria 3. Wachau Cultural Landscape 4. Historic Centre of Vienna Bosnia and Herzegovina 5. Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar 6. Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge in Višegrad Bulgaria 7. Boyana Church 8. Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo 9. Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak 10. Rila Monastery Croatia 11. Historical Complex of Split with the Palace of Diocletian 12. Old City of Dubrovnik 13. Episcopal Complex of the Euphrasian Basilica in the Historic Centre of Poreč 14. Historic City of Trogir 15. The Cathedral of St James in Šibenik 16. Stari Grad Plain on Hvar Greece 17. Archaeological Site of Delphi 18. Meteora 19. Paleochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessalonika 20. Archaeological Site of Mystras 21. Archaeological Site of Olympia 22. Monastery of Daphni 23. Monastery of Hosios Loukas Hungary 24. Budapest, including the Banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy Avenue* 76

Italy 25. Venice and its Lagoon 26. Early Christian Monuments of Ravenna 27. City of Verona Montenegro 28. Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor 29. Durmitor National Park Romania 30. Historic Centre of Sighişoara Churches of Moldavia: 31. Church of St George of the former Voronet Monastery 32. Church of the Beheading of St John the Baptist at Arbore 33. Church of St George at the Monastery of St John of Suceava 34. Church of the Assumption of the Virgin of Monastery of Humor 35. Church of the Annunciation of the Monastery of Moldovita 36. Monastery of Horezu Villages with Fortified Churches in Transylvania: 37. Biertan 38. Prejmer 39. Viscri 40. Saschiz 41. Valea Viilor Wooden Churches of the Maramureş: 42. Church of the Presentation of the Virgin at the Temple at Bârsana 43. Church of Saint Nicholas at Budeşti 44. Church of the Holy Archangels at Plopiş 45. Church of the Holy Paraskeva at Desesti 46. Church of the Holy Archangels at Şurdeşti 47. Church of the Holy Parasceve at Poienile Izei 48. Church of the Nativity of the Virgin at Ieud Serbia 49. Sopoćani 50. Studenica Monastery 51. Medieval Monuments in Kosovo: Dečani

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a sixweek trip to Southeastern Europe from May 9 ~ June 21, 2012. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2012. V. 6 77

Cream: Countries visited Purple dots: Overnights Red Line: Route Driven 43 Days 14 Countries 28 Hotels 51 UNESCO Sites 9,555 Kilometers 79

The Traditional Beverage of the Balkans Albania: rakia Bosnia and Herzegovina: rakija Bulgaria: ракия Croatia: rakija, travarica, grappa Hungary: pálinka Republic of Macedonia: ракија, loza Montenegro: ракија/rakija Romania: rachiu/răchie, ţuică, palincă Serbia: ракија/rakija, slivovitz If made properly, this drink is a true drinking testament to the efforts of our fathers, grandfathers and well, you know, till the beginning of time. ~ Croatian Rakija Guide

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Balkans Itinerary MAY Wednesday

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SRH arrive MUNICH, GERMANY, Franz Josef Strauss International Airport, MUC from Munich Hbf GEL arrive MUNICH, GERMANY, Franz Josef Strauss International Airport, MUC from London on Lufthansa Airlines Flight 8884/LH2483 (A320) at 10:20 Auto Europe’s Peugeot Open Europe Program: Purchase Peugeot 3008 Economy Diesel 1.6 with GPS (French license: CE-795-HG) In terminal meeting with Peugeot representative at 11:20 Drive to Ismaningerstrasse 98 in Hallbergmoos for auto pick-up.

Depart Hallbergmoos at 12:20 Route: Germany; Austria: Brenner Pass; Italy: Trento and San Giorgio Dinner: Trattoria Dalla Rosa Alda, Strada Garibaldi 4, San Giorgio, at 19:30 Locanda Dalla Rosa Alda in Room105. Parking in municipal lot 50 meters distant Strada Garibaldi 4, San Giorgio Valpolicella SAN GIORGIO VALPOLICELLA, ITALY 484 ks/ 303 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Trattoria Dalla Rosa Alda Sites: San Giorgio: S Ambroglio Romanesque church; Verona (UNESCO): Basilica di San Zeno Ravenna: Early Christian Monuments (UNESCO): Basilica di San Vitale, Mausoleo di Galla Placida Dinner: Ca De Ven, via Corrado Ricci, Ravenna, at 19:30 Hotel Bisanzio in Room 409. Parking in parking garage 100 meters distant Via Salara, 30, Ravenna central RAVENNA, ITALY 244 ks/ 153 miles

Friday

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Breakfast: Hotel Bisanzio Sites: Basilica di Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo, Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra, Dante’s Tomb, Capella di Sant Andrea, Archeological Museum, Battisterio Neonaniano, Church of San Francisco Lunch: Bottega Conti de Francesco Dinner: Ristorante La Gardela, via Ponte Marino 3, Ravenna, at 19:30 Hotel Bisanzio RAVENNA, ITALY

Saturday

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Breakfast: Hotel Bisanzio Route: Pomposa; Venice parking: Tronchetto Parking Garage Sites: Ravenna: Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe; Pomposa: Abbazia di Pomposa Dinner: Anice Stellato, Fondamenta della Sensa 3272, Cannaregio, at 19:30 Pensione La Calcina in Room 3.

Dorsoduro 780 Zattere, Venice VENICE, ITALY

170 ks/ 106 miles

Sunday

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Breakfast: Pensione La Calcina Sites: Venice: (UNESCO): Frari Church, Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Church, Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Piazza San Marco, Gallerie dell’ Academia, Isola di Burano Drinks: Pensione La Calcina at 16:00 Dinner: Venissa Ristorante, Isola di Mazzorbo (off Burano), at 19:00 Pensione La Calcina VENICE, ITALY

Monday

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Breakfast: Pensione La Calcina Sites: Venice: Correr Museum (Gustav Klimt exhibit); Basilica di San Marco (entry pre-booked): Pala d’oro, Treasury and Museum; Doge’s Palace; Grand Canal: Ca d’Oro, Rialto Bridge Lunch: Snack Bar San Vitale at 14:30 Dinner: La Zucca, Ponte del Meggio 1762, Santa Croce, at 19:30 Pensione La Calcina VENICE, ITALY

Tuesday

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Breakfast: Pensione La Calcina Sites: Croatia: Porec: Euphrasius Basilica (UNESCO); Beram: Church of St. Mary; Motovun: St Stephen Church Drinks: Hotel Kastel at 18:15 Dinner: Taverna Pod Voltom, trg Josefa Ressela 6, Motovun old town, at 19:00 Hotel Kastel in Room 201. Parking at municipal lot below old town.

Trg Andrea Antico 7, Motovun old town MOTOVUN, CROATIA 322 ks/ 201 miles

Wednesday

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Breakfast: Hotel Kastel Sites: Beram: Church of St. Mary; Zadar: St Donat Church, Cathedral, Archeological Museum; Sibenik; St James Cathedral (UNESCO); Trogir: Historic City (UNESCO): St. Lawrence Cathedral: Chapel Dinner: Kamerlengo, Vukovarska 2, Trogir old town, at 19:30 Hotel Pasike. Parking in lot across bridge, 100 meters distant.

Sinjska bb, Trogir old town TROGIR, CROATIA 458 ks/ 286 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Hotel Pasike Sites: Split: Historical Complex and Diocletian Palace (UNESCO): Peristyle; St Domnius Cathedral: crypt, treasury; Hvar Island: Stari Grad Plain (UNESCO); Hvar: St Stephen Cathedral, Franciscan Monastery Ferry: Jadrolinija Ferry Company; MS Laslovo. Depart Drvenik (near Makarska) at 16:00. Arrive Hvar Island (Sucuraj) at 16:35. Drive to Hvar town: arrive at 17:45.

Dinner: Macondo, trg Sv Stjepna, Hvar old town, at 19:30 Hotel Riva in Room 223. Parking in municipal lot 300 meters distant.

Riva bb, Hvar Yacht Harbor, Hvar old town HVAR, CROATIA 188 ks/ 118 miles

Friday

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Breakfast: Boxed breakfast prepared by Hotel Riva Ferry: Depart Sucaraj at 08:30; arrive Drvenik at 09:05 Jadrolinija Ferry Company; MS Laslovo.

Sites: Hvar Island; Bosnia: Mostar: Stari Most bridge (UNESCO) and Turkish quarter; Croatia: Dubrovnik Drinks: Matusko Wine Bar, Palmoticeva 4a, Dubrovnik Dinner: Dalmatino Konoba, Miha Pracata 6, Dubrovnik, at 19:30 Hotel Pucic Palace in Room 16 (Duro Bagliui). Parking in reserved street space 100 meters from PLOCE entrance gate.

Od Puaea, Gundulic Square, Dubrovnik old town DUBROVNIK, CROATIA 308 ks/ 193 miles

Saturday

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Brunch: sidewalk café on Stradun Placa Sites: Dubrovnik: Old City (UNESCO Site): Cathedral of Assumption, Rector’s Palace, Dominican Monastery: Museum, Sponza Palace, Franciscan Monastery, Ethnographic Museum, Ramparts Tour, Maritime Museum Dinner: Dundo Maroje, Kovacka bb, Dubrovnik old town, at 19:30 Hotel Pucic Palace DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

Sunday

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Breakfast: Hotel Pucic Palace Sites: Montenegro: Kotor Region (UNESCO); Herceg Novi; Perast; Budva; Sveti Stefan; Kotor: St Tryphon’s Cathedral and Museum, Sea Gate, clock tower, Rector’s Palace, Church of St Luke; Dobrota Dinner: Restoran Pantagana, Dobrota, at 19:30 Palazzo Radomiri in Glorioso suite. Parking within gated hotel grounds.

Dobrota 220, Kotor KOTOR, MONTENEGRO 170 ks/ 106 miles

Monday

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Breakfast: Palazzo Radomiri Sites: Lovcin National Park; Cetinje; Podgorica; Ostrog Monastery; Piva Monastery; Durmitor National Park (UNESCO): Piva River Canyon; Bosnia: Tara River Canyon; Sarajevo: Bursa Bezistan; Latin Bridge; Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum Dinner: Pivnica HS, Franjevacka 15, Sarajevo, at 19:30 Hotel Europe in Room 117. Underground parking below hotel.

Vladislava Skarica 5, Sarajevo SARAJEVO, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA 338 ks/ 211 miles

Tuesday

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Breakfast: Hotel Europe Route: Bosnia: Visegrad; Serbia: Uzice; Cacak; Kraljevo; Rte 22-11 to Studenica; Novi Pazar; Sopocani Sites: Visegrad: Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic Bridge (UNESCO); Studenica Monastery (UNESCO); Sopocani Monastery (UNESCO); Dinner: Rostilj Šadrvan Kod Jonuza, Fikret Crnisanin, Novi Pazar, at 20;45 Hotel Tadz. Enclosed parking behind hotel.

Rifata Burdzevica 79, Novi Pazar NOVI PAZAR, SERBIA 432 ks/ 270 miles

Wednesday

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Breakfast: Hotel Tadz Route: Route 22-11 south from Novi Pazar to Ribarice and border; Route E65-E80 southwest from Ribarice across the Montenegro border to Rozaja; from Rozaja southeast to the Kosovo border at Zhlebi/Lucanski Stanovi and on to Peja/Pec; Pec to Decani and to Prizren; Macedonia: Skopje Sites: Kosovo: Decani: Visoki Decani Monastery (UNESCO); Prizren; Macedonia: Skopje: Stone Bridge (Kamen Most), Trvdina Kale Fortress, Turkish quarter Dinner: Pivnica An, 1472 Kapan An, Skopje, at 20:15 Hotel Stone Bridge in Room 202. Parking in hotel lot at front entrance.

Kej Dimitar Vlahov no. 1, Skopje SKOPJE, MACEDONIA 317 ks/ 198 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Hotel Stone Bridge Sites: Skopje suburb of Gorno Nerezi: Sv Pantelejmon Monastery; Mavrovo National Park: Sv. Jovan Bigorski Monastery; Ohrid: Sv. Sofija Cathedral Dinner: Restaurant Dalga, Kosta Abras 3, Ohrid old town, at 17:45 Vila St Sofija in Room 203. Parking on street behind hotel.

Kosta Abras 64, Ohrid old town OHRID, MACEDONIA 228 ks/ 143 miles

Friday

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Breakfast: Vila St Sofija Sites: Ohrid: Upper Gate, Sv. Bogorodica Perivlepta and icon museum, 4th-cent. Church, Church of Sv. Kliment, Church of Sv. Jovan at Kaneo, Kaneo Beach, boat tour to harbor; harbor and park, Ul Sveti Kliment street, Museum Dinner: Taverna MoMir, Kosta Abras 4, Ohrid old town, at 19:00 Vila St Sofija OHRID, MACEDONIA

Saturday

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Breakfast: Vila St Sofija Sites: Albania: Berat: Historic Center (UNESCO); Drinos River Valley; Gjirokaster: Historic Center (UNESCO): Ottoman quarter; old bazaar; castle Dinner: Kujtimi, Pazar (Bazaar district), Gjirokaster old town, at 19:00 Hotel Kalemi in Room 3. Parking within gated hotel grounds.

Lagjia Palorto, Gjirokaster old town GJIROKASTER, ALBANIA

365 ks/ 228 miles

Breakfast: Hotel Kalemi Time change: one hour later in Greece Route: Greece: to Ioannana, Patra, Olympia and Kalamata to Mystras Sites: Olympia (UNESCO) Dinner: Taverna To Tokastro, Plateia Square, Mystras, at 20:30 Hotel Pyrgos Mystra in Room 3. Street parking 30 meters distant from hotel.

3 Manousaki str, Mystras MYSTRAS, GREECE

620 ks/ 388 miles

Sunday

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Monday

Tuesday

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Breakfast: Hotel Pyrgos Mystra Sites: Mystras: (UNESCO): Lower Town: Metropolis, Museum, Evangelistrias, Hodegetria, Palace Complex, St Nikolas, Pantanassa, Peribleptos; Upper Town: St Sophia Dinner: Restaurant O Ellinas, Plateia Square, Mystras, at 19:00 Hotel Pyrgos Mystra MYSTRAS, GREECE

8 ks/ 5 miles

Breakfast: Hotel Pyrgos Mystra Route: Sparti, Tripoli, Corinth, Eleusis; Daphni, Thiva; Hosios Loukas to Delphi Sites: Daphni: Monastery (UNESCO); Monastery of Hosios Loukas (UNESCO): Church of Theotokos, Katholikon Dinner: Taverna To Patrikomas, Vasileon Pavlou, Delphi, at 18:30 Pitho Hotel in Room 22. Street parking 40 meters distant from hotel.

40 A. Vasileon Pavlou and Frederikis Streets, Delphi DELPHI, GREECE

392 ks/ 245 miles

Wednesday

30

Breakfast: Pitho Hotel Route: Rte 48; Rte 29 Sites: Delphi: (UNESCO): Sacred Way, Treasuries, Temple of Apollo, Stoa of the Athenians, Theater, Stadium, Tholos at Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia Dinner: Epikouros Taverna, 33 Vasileon Pavlou and Frederikis Streets, Delphi, at 18:30 Pitho Hotel DELPHI, GREECE

Thursday

31

Breakfast: Pitho Hotel Route: Lamia; N. Monastiri; Trikala; Meteora; Thessaloniki Sites: Meteora: (UNESCO): Monasteries of Great Meteoron, Varlaam, Rousanou, St Stephen, Holy Trinity Dinner: Ouzeri Tis Aristotelous, 8 Aristotelous, Thessalonaki, at 18:30 Capsis Bristol in Room 102. Parking in lot 400 meters distant from hotel.

Opiopiou 2, at Katouni Ladadika, Thessaloniki THESSALONIKI, GREECE 472 ks/ 295 miles

1

Breakfast: Capsis Bristol Hotel Sites: Thessalonica: Byzantine Monuments (UNESCO): Lower Town: Aristotelous Square, Agia Sophia, Kendriki Agora and Market, St Demetrios’ Church, Rotonda, Arch of Galerius, White Tower, Archeological and Byzantine Civilization Musuems Dinner: Zithos, 5 Katouni, Ladadika, Thessalonika, at 19:00 Capsis Bristol THESSALONIKI, GREECE

JUNE Friday

Saturday

2

Breakfast: Capsis Bristol Hotel Sites: Rila Monastery (UNESCO Site); Sofia: Boyana Church (UNESCO) Dinner: Manastirska Magernitsa, 67 Khan Asparuh Street, Sofia at 19:30 Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan in Room 503. Parking in lot in front of hotel.

5 Sveta Nedelya Square, Sofia SOFIA, BULGARIA

373 ks/ 233 miles

Sunday

3

Breakfast: Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan Sites: Church of St Petka of Samardzijska, Rotunda of St George, Chapel of St Petka, Presidency, flea market, Alexander Nevski Place, Icon Museum in Cathedral crypt, St Alexander Nevski Cathedral, St Sofia Church, Archeological Museum, Party House, Dinner: Pod Lipite Restaurant,1 Elin Pelin Street, Sofia, at 19:30 Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan SOFIA, BULGARIA

Monday

4

Breakfast: Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan Sites: Backovo: Monastery of Backovo; Plovdiv: Old Town National Revival Houses: Balabanova, Hindilyanova, Church of St Constantine and Helen Dinner: Hebros Restaurant at 19:30 Hebros Hotel-restaurant in Room 3. Adjacent on street parking.

51 Constantine Stoilov Str., Old Town, Plovdiv PLOVDIV, BULGARIA

206 ks/ 129 miles

Tuesday

5

Breakfast: Hebros Hotel-restaurant Sites: Valley of Roses; Kazanlak: Thracian Tomb (UNESCO); Shipka: Memorial Church of Nativity; Veliko Tarnovo Dinner: Mehana Gurko at 19:15 Hotel Gurko in Room N17. Adjacent on street parking.

33 Gurko Street, Veliko Tarnovo VELIKO TARNOVO, BULGARIA 267 ks/ 167 miles

Wednesday

6

Breakfast: Hotel Gurko Sites: Bulgaria: Ivanovo: Rock-Hewn Churches (UNESCO): Church of Notre Dame; Ruse; Romania: Bucharest: Royal Palace, National Museum of Art of Romania, Romanian Athenaeum, Central University Library Dinner: Bistro Atheneu, Str. Episcopiei 3, Bucharest, at 19:45 Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest Hotel in Room 720. Parking in adjacent lot.

1-3 Episcopiei St, Bucharest BUCHAREST, ROMANIA 219 ks/ 137 miles

Thursday

7

Breakfast: Athenee Palace Hilton Sites: Museum of Romanian Peasant, Palace of Parliament, CEC Palace, Lipscani Quarter: Stavropoleos Church, Lunch: Manuc’s Inn at 13:30 Dinner: Caru cu Bere, 5 Stavropoleos St, Bucharest, at 19:50 Athenee Palace Hilton Bucharest Hotel BUCHAREST, ROMANIA

Friday

8

Breakfast: Athenee Palace Hilton Route: A1 to Pitesti; Ramnicu Valcea; Rte 67RT Horezu/Hurez; Valley of the Olt; Sibiu Sites: Wallachia: Hurez: Horezu Monastery (UNESCO); Valley of the Olt; Cozia National Park; Sibiu (Hermannstadt): Piata Mare, Piata Mica, Brukenthal Museum Dinner: Amber Café, Piata Mare 14, Sibiu old town, at 18:30 Am Ring Hotel in Room 204. Parking on street 200 meters distant.

Piata Mare (Large Square) 14, Sibiu old town SIBIU, ROMANIA

Saturday

9

364 ks/ 228 miles

Breakfast: sidewalk café on Piata Mare Sites: Sibiu: Upper Town: Piata Mare, Piata Mica, Piata Huet, Evangelical Cathedral, Passage of Stairs; Dumbrava Sibiului: ASTRA Open Air Museum; Fortified Churches in Transylvania: Valea Viilor (UNESCO); Medias (Mediasch): Church of St Marguerite; Biertan (Birthalm): Evangelical Church (UNESCO); Sighisoara (Schassburg): Historic Center (UNESCO): Citadel, Citadel Square, Clock Tower, Vlad’s birthplace, Scholar’s Stairs, Church of Dominican Monastery Dinner: Casa cu Cerb, 1 Strada Scolii, Sigisoara upper town, at 19:30 Residence Fronius in Room 1 “Patricia”. Adjacent on street parking.

13 Scolii street, Sighisaora upper town SIGHISOARA, ROMANIA 137 ks/ 86 miles

Sunday

10

Breakfast: Residence Fronius Sites: Fortified Churches in Transylvania: Saschiz (Keisd) (UNESCO); Viscri (Weisskirch) (UNESCO); Bran: Dracula’s Castle; Brasov (Kronstadt): Council Square, Old Town Hall, Black Church, Strada Republicii Dinner: Bella Muzica Restaurant at 19:30 Hotel Bella Muzica in Room 209. Parking in lot 400 meters distant from hotel.

Piata Sfatului 19, Brasov BRASOV, ROMANIA 196 ks/ 123 miles

Monday

11

Breakfast: Hotel Bella Muzica Route: Bacau, Suceava, Dragomirna, Gura Humorului Sites: Harman (Honigberg): fortified church of St Nicolas; Prejmer (Tartlau): Saxon Evangelical Fortress-Church (UNESCO) Dragomirna: Monastery: Church of the Descent of Holy Spirit (UNESCO) Dinner: Hilde’s Residence at 19:30 Hilde’s Residence in Room 1 “Bamboo Room”. Outdoor parking on site.

2 Sipotului Street, Gura Humorului GURA HUMORULUI, ROMANIA 422 ks/ 264 miles

Tuesday

12

Breakfast: Hilde’s Residence Route: Voronet; Gura Humorului; Humor; Cacica; Arbore; [Radauti; Putna]; Marginea; Sucevita; Moldovita; Vama Sites: Churches of Moldavia/Bucovina: Voronet: Monastery, Church of St George (UNESCO); Vama: Egg Museum; Moldovita: Monastery: Church of Annuciation (UNESCO); Ciumarna Pass; Sucevita: Monastery, Church of Resurrection (UNESCO); Arbore: Monastery, Church of Beheading of St John (UNESCO); Humor: Monastery, Church of Assumption (UNESCO) Dinner: Hilde’s Residence at 20:00 Hilde’s Residence GURA HUMORULUI, ROMANIA 163 ks/ 102 miles

Wednesday

13

Breakfast: Hilde’s Residence Route: Borsa; Viseu de Sus; Viseu de Jos; Iza Valley: Ieud Deal; Poenile Izei; Barsana Sites: Wooden Churches of Maramures ( 8 UNESCO Sites): Valleys of the Maramures: Iza Valley: Ieud: Church of the Nativity (UNESCO Site); Poienile Izei: Church of Holy Parasceve (UNESCO); Barsana: Church of the Presentation of the Virgin (UNESCO) Dinner: Casa Iurca de Calinesti at 19:30 Casa Iurca de Calinesti in Room 206 “Maria”. Adjacent on street parking.

14 Dragos-Voda Street, Sighetui Marmatiei SIGHETU MARMATIEI (SIGHET), ROMANIA

260 ks/ 163 miles

Breakfast: Casa Iurca de Calinesti Sites: Desesti: Church of Holy Parasceve (UNESCO); Gutai Pass; Mara Valley: Surdesti: Church of Holy Archangels (UNESCO); Plopis: Church of Holy Archangels (UNESCO); Neteda Pass; Cosau Valley: Budesti: Lower Church (UNESCO); Sarbi; Calinesti Dinner: Casa Iurca de Calinesti at 19:30 Casa Iurca de Calinesti SIGHETU MARMATIEI, ROMANIA

179 ks/ 112 miles

Breakfast: Casa Iurca de Calinesti Time change: one hour earlier in Hungary Sites: Romania: Valley of the Tisa: Sapanta: Merry Cemetary; Satu Mare; Hungary: Budapest: Banks of Danube, Buda Castle Quarter and Andrassy Avenue (UNESCO) Dinner: Bock Bisztro, Erzsebet korut 43-49, Pest, at 20:00 Art Otel in Room 320. Underground parking below hotel.

Bem Rakpart 16-19, Budapest BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

453 ks/ 283 miles

Thursday

Friday

14

15

Saturday

16

Breakfast: Angelica Etterem-Kafehaz Sites: Pest: Parliament, Budapest Metro, Flea Market in City Park, Heroes’ Square, Museum of Fine Arts, Andrassy Avenue, Hungarian State Opera House, St Stephen’s Basilica; Buda: Lanchid Chain Bridge; Royal Palace; Hungarian National Gallery; Castle District; Mattias Church Dinner: 21 Restaurant, Fortuna utca 21, Buda, at 20:00 Art Otel BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

Sunday

17

Breakfast: Café on M1 motorway Sites: Austria: Vienna: Historic Center of Vienna (UNESCO); Kunsthistorisches Museum; Gemaldigalerie; Secession Pavilion: Beethoven Frieze, Ringstrasse Drinks: Café Griensteidl Dinner: Schweizerhaus, Prater 116, Vienna, at 18:30 Radisson Blu Style Hotel in Room 116. Valet parking.

Herrengasse 12, Vienna VIENNA, AUSTRIA 245 ks/ 153 miles

Monday

18

Breakfast: Café Griensteidl Sites: Hofburg: Michaelerplatz, Josefsplatz, Albertina, Imperial Treasury; Stephansdom, Leopold Museum Dinner: Ofenloch, Kurrentgasse 8, Vienna old town, at 19:30 Radisson Blu Style Hotel VIENNA, AUSTRIA

Tuesday

19

Sites: Austria: Melk: Monastery (UNESCO): Museum, Abbey Church; Schallaburg: Castle: Exhibit: Golden Byzantium; Wachau (UNESCO): Melk to Krems and return; Germany: Munich Return Peugeot: Ismaningerstrasse 98, near Munich Airport at 17:20 Depart Munich Airport: S8-Bahn rail at 17:50; Arrive Marienplatz station at 18:35 Dinner: Weisses Brauhaus, Tal 7, Munich Altstadt, at 20:00 Platzl Hotel in Room 505 Sparkassenstrasse 10, Munich MUNICH, GERMANY 542 Kms/ 339 miles Total driving: 9,555 kms/ 5,972 miles

Wednesday

20

Breakfast: Platzl Hotel Sites: Alte Pinakothek; Altstadt: Marienplatz; Frauenkirche, Viktualienmarkt, Dallmyr’s Drinks: Platzl Bar at 19:00 with Starks Dinner: Phistermuehle Restaurant, in Platzl Hotel, at 20:00 with Starks Platzl Hotel MUNICH, GERMANY

Thursday

21

Breakfast: Platzl Hotel Depart Marienplatz station at 09:30: S1-Bahn rail to Munich Airport; Arrive Munich Airport at 10:15 Depart Munich: Strauss International Airport, MUC, Terminal 2 United Airlines 907 (B777)

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The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page. ~ St. Augustine

V. 6