2011 Morocco & Al Andalus 5

Morocco & Al-Andalus 5

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a five-week trip to Morocco, southern Spain, and Portugal from April 4 to May 10, 2011. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2011.

Morocco & Al-Andalus April 4 - May 10, 2011 Between 712 and 1492 Muslim and Ch ristian communities lived side by side in the Iberian peninsula, clutched in a long, intimate emb race: sharing a land, learning from one another, trading, intermarrying, misunderstanding, squabbling, fighting--generally indulging in all the incidents that go to furnish the ups and downs of coexistence.

--Richard Fletcher, Moorish Spain

V. 5 1

Thursday, May 5

Sintra

Leaving Lisbon, drove west 13 kilometers to Queluz, where we visited the 18th century Palacio Nacional. Smaller and more intimate than Versailles, the palace was nonetheless inspired by it.

Enjoyed walking through the gracious rooms that we had to ourselves: the Sala dos Azulejos, decorated with multicolored azulejos tiles depicting scenes from China and Brazil; the elegant Throne Room, resembling the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles; and the round bedroom of Pedro IV, with paintings of Don Quixote decorating the walls. The formal gardens were embellished with interesting sculpture and more azulejos.

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Palacio Nacional Queluz

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Returning to Lisbon, picked up the road that followed the coast west through Cascais; lots of hotels, casinos, restaurants, and traffic. Continued west along the Atlantic to Cabo Raso and then north along the Guincho Coast, ascending to Cabo da Roca, with precipitous cliffs dropping down to the ocean. Stopped to take a photo of the plaque marking the westernmost point in Europe. Turned east through the natural area of Serra de Sintra. As we entered the Parque da Pena, were treated to scenes of rugged rocks and vine-covered forests, passing the palace at Pena and a Moorish castle high above us.

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Parque da Pena

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Arrived in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sintra around 3:00. For six centuries this fairy-book town has been the favorite summer residence of the kings of Portugal and an inspiration for writers from Lord Byron to Hans Christian Andersen. We easily found Lawrence’s Hotel on the main road; it is one of the oldest hotels in Europe. Our room, the “William Beckford,” is fresh and bright, with whitewashed walls and chintz fabrics and three windows that open to views of the town and the hills beyond.

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William Thomas Beckford (1 October 1760 – 2 May 1844), usually known as William Beckford, was an English novelist, a profligate and consummately knowledgeable art collector and patron of works of decorative art, a critic, travel writer and sometime politician, reputed to be the richest commoner in England. He was Member of Parliament for Wells from 1784 to 1790, for Hindon from 1790 to 1795 and 1806 to 1820. He is remembered as the author of the Gothic novel Vathek, the builder of the remarkable lost Fonthill Abbey and Lansdown Tower ("Beckford's Tower") in Bath, and especially for his art collection.

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After Pedro welcomed us and got us settled, we walked down the street toward the Royal Palace, easily recognized by its twin conical chimneys that have become the symbol of Sintra. Were waylaid by an inviting antiques shop: I saw a neat little brass box in the window and when we saw that it contained a set of weights and was Portuguese and dated from 1780, I had to have it. With the little package stashed in my pocket, we walked up to the palace. A group of young people was gathered in the plaza and we learned that they were studying the traditional arts of Portugal; they were working on a form of azulejos that were not absolutely flat but had raised portions. We saw these same tiles when we toured the palace. The Palacio Real is the only surviving royal palace from the Middle Ages; it was originally built as a residence for the Moorish governors of Lisbon; in 1147, when Lisbon was reconquered, the palace became the property of the kings of Portugal. The azulejos in the palace were remarkable. The Arabic Hall was something out of 1001 Nights and the ceiling of the chapel was like those we had seen in the medersas in Morocco.

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Sintra from our window

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Sintra A UNESCO Site

Palacio Real 23

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Took the “Tschu-Tschu� train for a half-hour ride around Sintra, giving us the opportunity to see the three areas of town: Vila Velha around the palace, the modern area of Estefania, and Sao Pedro, famous for its antiques shops and twice-monthly antiques market.

Returning to the hotel, shared the fino that we had purchased in Jabugo on our ham hunt. Dinner at the hotel, overlooking the garden, which must be magnificent in the summer. Tried queijada, a local pastry made with eggs, sugar, and ground beans that has been a specialty since 1786, but it was too rich for my taste.

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Friday, May 6

Alcobaca

A nice breakfast buffet at the hotel; they had those glass cups of creamy yoghurt that I remembered from our last trip to Europe, rather than the Dannon that seems to have taken over everywhere else. Stopped at Mafra to check into visiting the monastery and were glad that we did not have to take a guided tour. The Palacio and Convento de Mafra was inspired by King Joao V in 1717 to thank the Virgin Mary for granting him a daughter (who later became the Queen of Spain). Originally planned for 13 monks, the enormous monastery ended up housing 300, plus the entire royal family and their staff. More than 50,000 workers and artisans were involved in the construction.

We made our way through some of the

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countless specialized rooms, including game room, music room, stringed music room, trophy room (with all furniture made of animal parts), candelabra room, and even a knife-sharpening room. The monks’ cells and their infirmary and kitchen provided an interesting contrast. The Rococo library looked almost surreal, with endless shelves of beautiful leather bindings in an eerie light. We learned that the books are kept in mint condition by a fleet of small bats that fly around at night and eat book-loving insects. The Baroque basilica is a haze of pink and black marble and sits commandingly at the center of the complex.

Palacio & Convento Mafra

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It was a short drive to the medieval village of Obidos on the autoestrada where we took a walk on the ramparts and through the cobbled main street bordered by white houses, bright with flowers. Noticed that almost every shop was selling ginjinha, local cherry liquor. I could not entice Jake to linger long in this charming town, as he had a full agenda planned for us.

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Obidos

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We drove on to the Mosteiro Batalha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were expecting to find it in a lonely valley but we saw that the N 1 highway runs right up to it; nonetheless, once we entered this masterpiece of Gothic and Manueline art, we were lost in its splendor. Built in accordance with Dominican architectural rules, the church has no belfry, but has a profusion of pinnacles, buttresses, and balustrades. The interior is soaring and simple in lines, similar to many of the cathedrals we have seen in England. The real beauty of the complex, however, is the Royal Cloisters, where the Gothic lines are embellished with Manueline detailing, reminding me of Lisbon’s Mosteiro dos Hieronimos. Especially enchanting was the Capelas Imperfeitas, where King Dom Duarte and his queen lie buried in an unfinished building open to the sky. Their marble forms lie holding hands.

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Mosteiro Batalha A UNESCO SITE

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We found black storm clouds hovering over the Mosteiro de Santa Maria when we arrived in Alcobaca, the small town where we are staying this evening. Just had time for a tour of the monastery in order to complete Jake’s ambitious plan for our day. Although the external Baroque appearance of the church was no indication, its clean Cistercian interior offered a stark contrast to what we had just seen at Batalha. Jake and I are in agreement that there is something about Cistercian monasteries that inspires the soul. The heavily decorated tombs of Dom Pedro and Ines de Castro offered a pleasing contrast to the simple austerity of the nave; the tragic and ghoulish story of their love is the stuff of legend. The

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dormitory, refectory, and tiled kitchen with its enormous open fireplace gave us a sense of what life had been like for the 330 monks who had lived there. At six, checked into the Challet Fonte Nova, an interesting 19th century house built in the Brazilian style, with high ceilings and exposed wood. Our room has twin balconies that overlook the garden. Pedro, the desk manager, got us organized and made dinner reservations for us at Antonio Padeiro, a local favorite located in the lower level of a building near the church square. We shared partridge and chicken cooked in clay pots, from an original recipe of Alcobaca’s monks, and of course, a bottle of local red wine.

Mosteiro de Santa Maria A UNESCO Site

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Saturday, May 7

Caceres

This is our last day in Portugal, and Jake planned for us to make the most of it. We began with the sanctuary at Fatima, one of the world’s great pilgrimage sites. On the 13th of May, 1917, the Virgin Mary appeared to three young shepherds with a message of peace; they have been beatified and are buried in the large basilica at one end of a huge esplanade. Mass was just completed when we arrived and we watched the crowds leaving the outdoor chapel area.

Fatima Esplanade

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Sh rine of Fatima

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The Convento de Cristo in Tomar is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by the Knights Templar in 1160, it was given to the Knights of Christ by the King of Portugal in 1320.

The church has an unusual Templar’s Rotunda, built in the 12th century to replicate the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. A highly ornate 16th century window is the most amazing example of Manueline embellishment in Portugal; we found several places to take photos of this truly remarkable sculpture from different angles. A short drive further, we stopped to see the Castelo de Almourol in its setting on a small rocky island in the center of the Tagus River. We chose not to take the boat ride over to the island; the sun came out just in time for our pictures from the shore.

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Convento de Cristo A UNESCO Site

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Almoural Castelo

Continuing through green, rolling riverbeds, we came to Marvao, a fortified medieval village near the Spanish border where we walked along the lower ramparts and took in the view of the countryside with the jagged mountains in the distance. Steep, narrow steps went high up to the towers; we were too wimpy to tackle that climb with no railings. It was almost 5:00 when we crossed back to Spain; abandoned customs buildings on the border were reminiscent of pre-EU days. It was after 6:00 when we reached Caceres. Finding the Agora Hotel was not a problem but it was a turn-off when we got to the door, struggled with our luggage on our own and then were told that we would have to back up to access the hotel parking on the one-way street. Again, no hotel staff to help; I had to stand out in the street and stop traffic so that Jake could back up and fit the car into a miniscule elevator to the

parking lot below. The lobby was mobbed when we came in; kids were running all over the place and several Spanish women were talking at top volume; it seemed that some kind of family gathering had taken over the hotel. Had just enough time to shower and change before walking to the Caceres Viejo for our dinner reservations at Atrio, a new two-star Michelin-rated restaurant in a beautiful old stone building. We had a superb degustation menu; long, leisurely, and with excellent service. By the time we had finished our last course, we had forgotten all about our unpleasant arrival. A romantic walk through the old city after dinner; all the buildings were illuminated with a golden light that made the scene quite magical. Lots of people were out on this lively Saturday night; couples, families with small children, teenagers. I will never quite understand when the Spanish people sleep.

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Marvao

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Caceres Viejo A UNESCO Site 80

Sunday, May 8 Early start, driving on an almost empty highway to Trujillo, a small town with an attractive medieval quarter demonstrating Moorish influences. Found a pleasant restaurant on the Plaza Mayor with views of the variety of 17th century seigniorial mansions surrounding it; trouble was, we could not find a convenient place to park. Decided to wait for breakfast until we got to Guadalupe, but again were thwarted when we went the wrong direction on the E 218, heading north into Parque Monfrague, a large nature reserve. It was a beautiful drive, but by the time we joined up with the autovia again, we were too far north for the round trip to Guadalupe; Jake had to forego one planned UNESCO site. The Sunday traffic into Madrid was not too bad, although the crowds were out in abundance once we entered the city.

Madrid Found the Atocha Station with a minimum of fuss and returned the car: we’d traveled more than 4000 km. in Spain and Portugal. A short taxi ride brought us to the Hotel Maria Elena Palace. While Jake took off immediately for the Prado, I called Dagmar and Klaus Stark, as we had made plans to meet at the hotel in Madrid. Spent a relaxing afternoon with them, sharing a bottle of cava and catching up. When Jake returned at 7:00, he was exhausted and I talked him into a soak in the tub. Met the Starks in the lobby around 8:00 for drinks; walked to a lively tapas bar in the neighborhood where we grabbed a corner table by the window. Good conversation over Spanish white wine and typical tapas— cheese, pate, sausage, and sardines. Such a treat to end our trip spending time with my dear friends.

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Trujillo

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Monday, May 8

Madrid

Met the Starks for breakfast at the hotel. Walked over together to visit a nearby monastery that the concierge assured us was open on Mondays; it was not. Jake set off on his own to go museum-ing and I stayed with Klaus and Dagmar. Had noticed a store that specialized in handmade fans and umbrellas and wanted to see what they had. The Casa de Diego had the most extensive collection of both one could imagine, including cases of magnificent antique fans. I ended up buying a small one, made of pear wood, lacquered with black, and hand painted. Continued up the Gran Via to show them Loewe; they were impressed at the beautiful leather bags. At the Plaza del Sol, caught the Metro (beautiful stations and clean trains) to Atocha and visited the Reina Sophia. The Starks love modern art and we saw the 84

Picasso collection, particularly Guernica and the series of post-Guernica smaller works that he completed, carrying on his theme with even greater emotion. We were all enchanted by the colorful, whimsical works of Stuttgarter Oskar Schlemmer that were everywhere. Sat at the Pinocchio CafĂŠ across the plaza from the museum and had salads and wine and talked and talked. Returned to Sol station by Metro; a demonstration was in progress. Taxi to dinner at Michelin Bib restaurant Bola; really cozy and traditional where the men ordered the specialty of the house, cocida, a stew made of meat and chickpeas served in a sauce over fine noodles.

Dagmar and I had grilled sole. Back at the hotel, Jake and I looked forward to a good night’s sleep before our flight home tomorrow.

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Tuesday, May 10

Chicago

Well, we got anything but a good night’s sleep. The hotel’s climate control was not working and the room was unbearably hot without opening a window.

However, a street party was underway and went on literally all night with screams, yelling, and all sorts of commotion in the street below. I have also never heard such loud refuse collection. I think the trucks must have picked up a dozen dumpsters full of bottles and crashed each one several times against the truck. Unbelievable. When we had to get up, we were both totally wiped out. Not the best way to start a long flight back across six time zones. We looked

pretty punk when we met the Starks for breakfast; not a great send off, but my day with them yesterday was what counted. Taxi to the airport in plenty of time to get VAT refunds and do last minute calculations on trip expenses. The US Airways flight was pleasant and the seven hours went by quickly as I slept pretty much the whole way. Cleared customs in Philadelphia; it was nice not to have to face all of that later in Chicago. Our Chicago flight to O’Hare left at 6:00 we landed just over an hour later. Caught the Blue Line into the city and a taxi back to 1320. As always, it is good to be home.

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Itinerary Monday

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Depart CHICAGO, ORD, Terminal 2 on US Airways Flight 706 (A320) at 13:50 CST Arrive PHILADELPHIA, Philadelphia International, PHL, at 16:45 EST (13 minutes early) Depart Philadelphia International, PHL, on US Airways Flight 740 (B767-300) at18:35 IN FLIGHT

Tuesday

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Arrive MADRID, Madrid Barajas, MAD, Terminal 1 at 07:50 CEST (25 minutes early) Depart Madrid Barajas, MAD, Terminal 4 on Iberia Flight 8372 (A320) at 12:50 (10 minutes late) Arrive MARRAKESH, Marrakesh Menara, RAK, at 14:35 WET (one hour late).

Rental car: Thrifty Car Rental: Toyota Carolla Millenium. License: 4630 6 with 55,088 kilometers. In terminal pick up at 16:00 Sites: Essaouira/Mogador: Medina (UNESCO Site), ramparts (Skala de la Ville) of city and port, souks Dinner: Villa Maroc at 20:30 Villa Maroc: Room 20 ESSAOUIRA 178 ks/ 111 miles

Wednesday

Thursday

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Breakfast: Villa Maroc Sites: El Jadida/Mazagan: Portuguese City (UNESCO Site), cistern, ramparts; Rabat: Kasbah des Oudais, medina, ramparts, Dinner: Riad Oudaya at 20:00 Riad Oudaya: Kasbah room.

RABAT 445 ks/ 278 miles Breakfast: Riad Oudaya Sites: Rabat: Citadel of Chellah, medina, souks, Ville Nouvelle, Place Abraham Lincoln, Tour Hassan, Esplanade of Almohad Mosque, Mohammed V Mausoleum, Citadel of Chellah, Archeological Museum; Sale: Bab Mrisa, Grand Mosque, Medersa Abou el Hassan Dinner: Riad Oudaya at 20:00 Riad Oudaya: Kasbah room.

RABAT

Friday

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Breakfast: Riad Oudaya Sites: Meknes: Imperial City (UNESCO Site), Bab Mansour, Place el Hedim, Bou Inania Medersa, caleche tour of ramparts, granaries of Heri es Souani, Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail; Moulay Idriss; Volubilis: Roman ruins (UNESCO Site): Forum, Triumphal Arch, mosaics: House of Venus, Labors of Hercules; Fes: view from Merenid Tombs, Bab el Djedid, Place er R’cif Dinner: Maison Bleue at 20:00 Dar Seffarine: Anika Suite FES 291 ks/ 182 miles

Saturday

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Breakfast: Dar Seffarine Sites: Fes el-Bari: Medina (UNESCO Site), Kairaouine Mosque, Kairaouine Library, souks along Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira, Medersa Bou Inania, Water Clock, Medersa Attarine, Place Nejjarin, Chouwara tanneries Shopping: Les Mysteries de Fes Dinner: Dar Seffarine at 20:30 Dar Seffarine: Anika Suite FES

Sunday

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Breakfast: Dar Seffarine Sites: Medersa es Seffarine, Place Seffarine, dyer’s souk, Fes el-Jedi: Mella, Jewish cemetery, Royal Palace, Dinner: Dar Seffarine at 20:30 Dar Seffarine: Anika Suite FES

Monday

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Breakfast: Dar Seffarine Sites: Ifrane: alpine villas; Ziz Valley-Tafilalt: Ziz Gorges, Erfoud, Rissani Dinner: Auberge Derkaoua encampment at 20:30 Auberge Derkaoua: encampment at Chebbi Erg dunes RISSANI (TENTED CAMP) 454 ks/ 284 miles

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Tuesday

Wednesday

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Breakfast: Auberge Derkaoua Activities: camel ride to dunes of Erg Chebbi Sites: Merzouga: Erg Chebbi; Rissani: Sijilmassa ruins; Ksour Road: Oulad Abdelhalim, Tinrheras Dinner: Auberge Derkaoua at 20:00 Auberge Derkaoua: Room 14 RISSANI 120 ks/ 75 miles Breakfast: Auberge Derkaoua Sites: Tinehir; Todra Gorges; Dades Gorges; Skoura: tour of palmeries and kasbahs Dinner: Kasbah Ait Ben Moro at 20:30 Kasbah Ait Ben Moro: Third Floor Suite SKOURA 421 ks/ 263 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Kasbah Ait Ben Moro Sites: Ouarazate; Tizi-n-Tichka Road: Telouet; Ait-Benhaddou: Ksar (UNESCO Site); Atlas Film Studios Dinner: Kasbah Ait Ben Moro at 20:30 Kasbah Ait Ben Moro: Third Floor Suite SKOURA 315 ks/ 197 miles

Friday

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Breakfast: Kasbah Ait Ben Moro Sites: Draa Valley: Tizi n’Tinififft, Agdz, Ksar of Tamnougalt; Zagora; Tamegroute; M’hamid: Erg Chigaga; Nekob: palmeries Dinner: Kasbah Imdoukal at 20:00 Kasbah Imdoukal: Room 8 N’KOB 497 ks/ 311 miles

Saturday

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Breakfast: Kasbah Imdoukal Sites: Foum Zguid; Tata: Berber architecture Dinner: Dar Infiane at 20:00 Dar Infiane: Fatima Room TATA 412 ks/ 258 miles

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Sunday

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Breakfast: Dar Infiane Sites: Akka: palmeries, Ait Herbel: doors, Amtoudi: Id Aissa agadir, Tafraoute; Shopping: Maison Touareg Dinner: Le Etoile at 19:30 Riad Tafraout: Room 2 TAFRAOUTE 514 ks/ 321 miles

Monday

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Breakfast: Riad Hida Sites: Ameln Valley: Had Tahala, Anameur, Oumesnat; Taroudant: ramparts Dinner: Riad Hida Hotel Riad Hida: Room 10 (Pasha Suite) OULED BERHIL 306 ks/ 191 miles

Tuesday

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Breakfast: Riad Hida Return rental car: Marrakesh Menara Airport at 13:45 Sites: Tizi-n-Test Road: Tinmel: Mosque; Asni; Marrakesh: Bab Agnaou, Medina (UNESCO Site), Mellah, Spice Market, Place Jemaa el Fna Dinner: Stall 31, Place Jemaa le Fna at 18:30 Riad Bayti: Suite 307 MARRAKESH 183 ks/ 114 miles

Wednesday 20

Breakfast: Riad Bayti Sites: Bahia Palace, Dar Si Said Museum, Place Jemaa el Fna, souks, Koutoubia Minaret, Medersa Ben Youssef, Marrakesh Museum, Almoravid Koubba, Historic Bus Tour, ramparts, Saadian Tombs, El Badi Palace Dinner: Dar Marjana at 20:00 Riad Bayti: Suite 307 MARRAKESH

Thursday

Breakfast: Riad Bayti Sites: Majorelle Gardens, Historic and Oasis Bus Tours including Gueliz and Hivernage, souks Lunch: Les Premices at 14:30; Shopping: La Porte d’Or; El Abidi Nasser Eddine

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Dinner: Tanjine at 20:30 Riad Bayti: Suite 307 MARRAKESH

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Friday

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Depart: Marrakesh Menara, RAK: Royal Air Maroc Flight 402 (B 737-800) at 10:00 (15 minutes late) Arrive CASABLANCA, Casablanca Mohammed V, CMN, at 10:45 (20 minutes late) Depart: Casablanca Mohammed V, CMN, Iberia Flight 3703 (A320) at 12:10 (15 minutes late) Arrive: MADRID, Madrid Barajas, MAD, Terminal 1 at 15:00 CEST (30 minutes late) Car Rental: Hertz Car Rental via AAA Travel: Renault Megane Sport Tourer. License: E 1236HCF with 5,815 kilometers. In terminal pick up at 16:00 Dinner: El Botero at 21:00 Palacio Eugenia de Montijo: Room 356 TOLEDO 105 ks/ 66 miles

Saturday

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Lunch: La Flor de la Esquina Sites: Historic City of Toledo (UNESCO Site), Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes, Sinagoga del Transito, Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, Iglesia de Santo Tome (El Greco’s Burial of the Count of Orgaz), Casa y Museo El Greco, Catedral (choir stalls, retable, treasury), Iglesia de San Roman (Visigoth Museum) Dinner: El Botero at 20:30 Palacio Eugenia de Montijo: Room 356 TOLEDO

Sunday Easter

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Brunch: Aranjuez: Rincon de Godoy Sites: Toledo: view from Ermita de la Virgen del Valle; Aranjuez: Royal Palace and Gardens (UNESCO Site); Baeza: Renaissance Monumental Ensemble (UNESCO Site) Dinner: Restaurant La Pintada (Hotel Puerta de la Luna) at 20:30 Hotel Puerta de la Luna: Room 312 BAEZA 360 ks/ 225 miles

Monday

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Breakfast: Hotel Puerta de la Luna Sites: Ubeda: Renaissance Monumental Ensemble (UNESCO Site); Cordoba: Historic Center (UNESCO Site) Activities: Drove 263 kilometers from Cordoba to Seville airport and back to Cordoba to obtain lost bags.

Dinner: Taberna Pepe de la Juderia at 20:30, Casa Rubio, Bodega Guzman NH Amistad Cordoba: Room 254 CORDOBA 416 ks/ 260 miles 95

Tuesday

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Brunch: Heladeria Mezquita Sites: Mezquita-Catedral: mihrab, cupola, pulpits, choir stalls, treasury; walking tour of Juderia quarter, Sinagoga Zoco, Puerta del Puente, Puente Romano, Museo Arqueologico Dinner: El Churrasco at 20:30 NH Amistad Cordoba: Room 254 CORDOBA

Wednesday 27

Breakfast: CafĂŠ at Medina Azahara Sites: Medina Azahara: ruins of palace-city, museum; Granada: Alhambra night tour of Palacios Nazaries at 22:00: Alhambra and Palacios Nazaries (UNESCO Site) Dinner: Ruta del Azafram at 19:00 Casa Morisca: Room 1 GRANADA 237 ks/ 148 miles

Thursday

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Breakfast: Casa Morisco Sites: Alhambra morning tour of Palacios Nazaries at 08:30, Alhambra gardens, Palacio de Carlos V and Museo de la Alhambra, Alcazaba and Generalife, Cathedral Quarter: Catedral: mausoleums; Capilla Real: carved screen; Plaza Nueva, Carrera del Darro; Albayzin Quarter (UNESCO Site): Plaza San Nicolas Tapas: Bodegas La Mancha; Hannigan & Son Dinner: El Ajibe del Poeta at 20:30 Casa Morisca: Room 1 GRANADA

Friday

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Breakfast: Casa Morisco Sites: Costa del Sol: Malaga, Marbella, Puerta Banus; Ronda: Puente Nueva, Santa Maria la Mayor, Palacio de Mondragon y museo, Jardines de Forestier, Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra, Casa del Rey Moro, Banos Arabes Lunch: Ronda: CafĂŠ Bar Arminan at 15:30 Dinner: Tragatapas at 20:30 Hotel San Gabriel: Room 15 (Junior Suite) RONDA 289 ks/ 181 miles

Saturday

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Breakfast: Hotel San Gabriel Sites: Ruta de Pueblos Blancos: Grazalema, Arcos de la Frontera: medieval upper town; Jerez; Seville: Plaza de San Francisco, Plaza Nueva Activities: Jerez: Gonzalez Byass bodega tour Shopping: Loewe Dinner: El Rinconcillo at 20:30 Hotel La Casa del Maestro: Tierra Minera Room SEVILLE 238 ks/ 149 miles

MAY Sunday

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Breakfast: Hotel La Casa del Maestro Sites: Museo del Bellas Artes, Cathedral and Alcazar (UNESCO Site): Real Alcazar: Palacio de Pedro el Cruel, gardens; Catedral: retable, Capilla Real; Giralda; Barrio de Santa Cruz: Hospital de los Venerables Lunch: Milagritos at 15:30 Activities: Flamenco performance: Tablao el Arenal at 20:00.

Dinner: El Rinconcillo at 22:00 Hotel La Casa del Maestro: Tierra Minera Room SEVILLE

Monday

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Breakfast: Hotel La Casa del Maestro Sites: Arcena: Gruta de las Maravillas; Parque Natural de la Sierra de Aracena Picos de Aroche; Jabugo: Plaza de Jamon; Evora: Historic Center (UNESCO Site), Praca do Giraldo, Templo Romano, Convento dos Loios Dinner: Pousada dos Loios Evora at 20:00 Pousada dos Loios Evora: Room 122 EVORA

Tuesday

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320 ks/ 200 miles

Breakfast: Pousada dos Loios Evora Sites: Evora: Cathedral; Lisbon: Ponte Vasco da Gama, Monastery of the Hieronymites (UNESCO Site): Santa Maria Cloisters, Igreja de Santa Maria; Padrao dos Descobrimentos; Museu da Marinha, Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Activities: Fado performance: Sr Vinho: Casa de Fado, Bairro Alto at 22:30.

Dinner: Tasca da Esquina at 20:00 York House: Room 107 LISBON 135 ks/ 84 miles 97

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Wednesday 4

Breakfast: York House Sites: Tower of Belem (UNESCO Site), Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Alfama Quarter: Castelo de Sao Jorge, Se (Cathedral); Baixa Quarter: Route 12 electrico trolley ride, Elevador de Santa Justa; Praca do Comercio Dinner: Solar dos Nunes at 20:00 York House: Room 107 LISBON

Thursday

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Breakfast: York House Sites: Queluz: Palacio Nacional; Estoril; Cascais; Cabo de Roca; Serra de Sintra: Castelo dos Mouros, Palacio Nacional da Pena; Sintra: Cultural Landscape (UNESCO Site): Palacio Real, Activities: Tschu-Tschu train tour of Sintra Dinner: Lawrence’s Hotel at 20:00 Lawrence’s Hotel: William Beckford Room SINTRA 139 ks/ 87 miles

Friday

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Breakfast: Lawrence’s Hotel Sites: Mafra: Palacio and Convento: Basilica, royal rooms, library; Obidos: medieval city, ramparts; Batalha: Monastery (UNESCO Site): Church, Claustro Real, Sala do Capitulo, Capelas Imperfeitas; Alcobaca: Monastery of Santa Maria (UNESCO Site): Church and Abbey buildings, Tumulos de Ines de Castro and Dom Pedro Dinner: Alcobaca: Restaurant Antonio Badeiro at 20:00 Challet Fonte Nova: Room 1R ALCOBACA 196 ks/ 123miles

Saturday

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Breakfast: Challet Fonte Nova Sites: Fatima: esplanade; Tomar: Convent of Christ (UNESCO Site); Almoural: Castelo de Almoural; Marvao: elevated site, medieval village; Caceres: Old Town (UNESCO Site) Dinner: Restaurante Atrio at 20:30 Hotel AH Agora Caceres: Room 214 CACERES 378 ks/ 236 miles

Sunday

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Breakfast: Sites: Trujillo: Plaza Major, Iglesia Santa Maria; Parque Natural de Monfrague; Madrid: (GEL): Museo del Prado Return rental car: Atocha Railroad Station at 14:45 Meet Starks at hotel.

Dinner: La Soberbia at 20:00 with Starks Maria Elena Palace Hotel: Room 207 MADRID 359 ks/ 224 miles Total driving in Spain/Portugal

3,170 kms/1,981 miles

Monday

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Breakfast: Maria Elena Palace Hotel Sites: GEL: Las Descalzas Reales (closed); Teatro Real de la Opera; Palacio Real; La Encarnacion (closed); Plaza de Espana: Cervantes Monument; Parque de Oeste: Temple de Debod, La Rosaleda; Iglesia San Antonio de la Florida (closed); Museo Arqueologico Nacional (closed); Plaza Colon; Plaza de Cibeles; Gran Via; SRH: Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Gran Via Lunch: SRH: Pinocchio Cafe at 13:00 with Starks: Dinner: La Bola at 20:30 with Starks Maria Elena Palace Hotel: Room 207 MADRID

Tuesday

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Breakfast: Maria Elena Palace Hotel with Starks Depart Madrid Barajas, MAD, Terminal 1 on US Airways Flight 741 (A330) at 13:00 (25 minutes late) Arrive PHILADELPHIA, Philadelphia International, PHL at 14:50 EST (25 minutes early) Depart: Philadelphia, PHL, on US Airways Flight 707 (A321) at 18:00 Arrive: CHICAGO, Chicago O’Hare, (Terminal 2) at 19:28 CST (on time)

Total driving in Morocco Total driving in Spain/Portugal Total driving on trip:

4,136 kms/ 2,185 miles 3,170 kms/ 1,981 miles 7,306 kms/ 4,566 miles

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a fiveweek trip to Morocco, southern Spain, and Portugal from April 4 to May 10, 2011.

Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2011.

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