2011 Morocco & Al Andalus 4

Morocco & Al-Andalus 4

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a five-week trip to Morocco, southern Spain, and Portugal from April 4 to May 10, 2011. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2011.

Morocco & Al Andalus Ap ril 4 - May 10, 2011 Medieval Spain’s Muslims, Christians, and Jews embraced and rejected each other’s faith traditions and customs, fought alongside each other and against each other, occasionally tolerated their neighbors and somehow forged a golden age for each faith.

--Chris Lowney, A Vanished World

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Friday, April 29

Ronda

Departed Granada in a cold rain; Jake did an admirable job backing the car down the hill in front of the hotel to the street. Although the weather was disappointing, we reminded ourselves how fortunate we were to have seen the Alhambra on two perfect evenings and a sunny day. By 10:00, were on the A 44 south to Motril, crossing over a series of viaducts, some as long as two kilometers, enabling us to descend gently through steep valleys.

At Salobrena, turned west, connecting to the A 7 to Malaga; drove along the Mediterranean in a misty rain—hardly the Costa del Sol today! What would have been a spectacular drive was obscured by rain and fog. Jake continued to extol the Spanish roads that curved gently through the countryside, eased by viaducts and tunnels. At Malaga, picked up a short section of the expensive Autopista del Sol to Marbella. The road between Marbella, the tourism

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center of the Costa del Sol, and Puerto Banus, a parking lot for expensive yachts, was lined with hotels, golf courses, and high-end boutiques; I also noticed a number of real estate offices. From there we took what was supposed to be a scenic highway to Rhonda, passing through the Sierra de las Nieves and Sierra Bermeja Mountains and climbing to a summit of 3400 feet. Unfortunately, the persistent fog and rain were spoilers: the fog rose from the valleys like steam from giant boiling cauldrons, blocking any chance for a view. Arrived in Ronda at 2:00 and found the Hotel San Gabriel just off the main road. This three-red-peak-Michelin-designated hotel is located in an 18th century mansion; Ricardo, the manager, showed us to our room, a small suite with quirky stairs to the bed and views of the cathedral spire, red tile rooftops, and orange trees.

In spite of the weather, we toured this historic Moorish town, built on an isolated ridge of the sierra and connected with an 18th century bridge that spans the river gorge. Adapting the suggested route in the Green Guide, visited Santa Maria la Mayor (only the mihrab arch remains of its previous life as a mosque); the city museum (housed in a 14th century Moorish residence but with little else of interest); the Jardins Forestier (a small Moorish terraced garden); and the intricate portal of the Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra (a private home) that features two pair of whimsical Adam and

Eve figures. The best aspects of our walk were the panoramas of the countryside; the view of the gorges from the bridge was especially dramatic. Warmed up with a glass of fino at CafĂŠ Arminan, near our hotel, and returned to our room for some down time.

As the sun was setting, crossed the bridge for tapas and wine at minimalist Tragatapas, where we sat at the bar and tried various small treats, including fresh asparagus and marinated salmon; were entertained watching a group of young Spanish women on a girls’ night out.

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Saturday, April 30

Seville

The rain persisted, although we hung onto the hope provided by occasional wisps of blue. Took the A 372 “Route of the White Villages” from Ronda to Arco, crossing one of the most beautiful parts of the Iberian Peninsula. Passed lots of cyclists: sport cycling is big in Spain, and on this holiday weekend, a race was routed through Ronda in the early morning. Our own route took us through forests of Spanish fir, skirting mountain folds, as we saw the pretty “white villages” neatly tucked

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into the landscape. After the town of Grazalema, we climbed to 3500 feet but the purported view of the valley below was totally obscured by fog. As we descended, saw areas brilliantly illuminated by sun while clouds continued to dull others. Stopped to photograph Arcos, perched precariously on a cliff. Joined the autopista for 30 km. to Jerez; another costly trip. On one side of the highway, the sun shone brightly and on the other, we could see the rain coming down in sheets.

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Once in Jerez, it was a challenge to find the Gonzalez Byass Bodegas, but after several false turns, we arrived in time for their 2:00 tour in English. We learned how sherry is made and saw the old mechanisms and barrels that were used before technology moved the production to a new factory. However, seeing the old caves was most evocative and gave me a richer appreciation of fino, which I very much appreciate already.

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The sky continued to clear as we drove on to Seville, arriving around 4:30. Left the car in a public parking lot and rolled our bags a couple of blocks down a side street to La Casa del Maestro, the former home of flamenco guitarist Nino Ricardo and now a small and interesting hotel. Our room is painted red and has a twenty-foot ceiling and lots of character. I would not let poor Jake rest, for wanted to find Loewe before it closed for the remainder of the weekend. Our walk took us along major shopping streets where we were impressed by the interesting architecture from a myriad of periods and intrigued by the many shops selling flamenco clothes and accessories of all descriptions.

Lots of people out and about on this May Day weekend, sitting at cafes, shopping, or joining the general paseo. At 8:30, just made it in time for our dinner reservations at El Renconcillo, a lively bar in a house that dates from the 17th century, with azulejo paneling and hams hanging from the ceiling. Unfortunately, we had to sit upstairs, away from all the activity and the atmosphere, and our dinner was very mediocre as well. By the time we descended, the place was packed. Such fun to see the people out enjoying themselves in this city so full of life.

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Seville

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Sunday, May 1

Seville

Got a late start but the sleep felt good. Checking my email before we left, learned that Osama Bin Laden had been killed by a US military operation in Islamabad, Pakistan; the Department of State has issued a worldwide terrorism alert for Americans abroad. What a precarious world we live in: it seems somewhat cynical to mention the Marrakech bombing and Bin Laden’s death in this journal and then continue to write about our activities for the day, but then, this is my travel journal and this is what happened. So, I continue. We walked down to the Museo de Bellas Artes, attractively located in a 17th century former convent; the collection of predominately Spanish painters was generally disappointing. Queued up to enter the Real Alcazar, or Royal Palace, representing a variety of architectural styles from the 10th century onwards. Of particular beauty was the Palacio de Pedro el Cruel, a MudÊjar masterpiece built by artisans from Granada; the influence of the Alhambra is very evident, and the fact

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that we had just visited the Alhambra made it particularly interesting for us. Unlike the Alhambra, however, much of the delicate stone carving retained its painted color; we much preferred the white lacy effect we had admired in Granada. There were far more visitors to the Alcazar as well, probably due to the fact that this is a holiday weekend for the Spanish people. After completing our circuit of the Gothic-style Salones de Carlos V and the gardens, walked through the Barrio de Santa Cruz, a district of twisting streets, white-washed buildings, and pleasant squares where people were gathered under umbrella-covered tables enjoying wine and tapas. Stopped for a beer and fresh asparagus tempura, under the shadow of the Giralda, the 12th century Almohad minaret, now topped with the statue of Faith that is the symbol of Seville. Beautifully maintained horse carriages passed by; the horses looked well cared for as well.

Museo de Bellas Artes

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Real Alcazar A UNESCO Site

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Palacio de Pedro el Cruel

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Gi ralda

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After our break, joined a long but quickly moving line to enter the cathedral. The Giralda is the only clue that a mosque was once built on the spot; the cathedral is massive, and the Spanish Catholic propensity for heavy decoration is evident everywhere. Although there has been continued controversy surrounding the resting place of the bones of Christopher Columbus, there is an enormous 19th century monument to him there; whether it is his tomb is a matter of conjecture. A light drizzle began as we walked back to the hotel and prepared for the evening. Took a taxi from the hotel to Tablao el Arenal, a formal flamenco school in existence for more than 30 years, where we had made reservations to attend a performance. Expecting a large auditorium filled with flash-popping tourists, we were pleased to find an attractive supper club with walls covered with paintings and photographs of the stars of

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flamenco past and present. While we sipped our glasses of fino, we were treated to 90 minutes of singing, dancing, and guitar, giving us a good sense of the range of this Spanish cultural phenomenon, in reality an amalgamation of the cultures of the world that evolved from the traditions of Europe, Africa, and the Middle East. While we listened to one of the female performers singing soulfully in a deep, sonorous voice, I was reminded of the call to prayer that we have so often heard on our travels. Returned to Rinconcella, this time without reservations; we were able to snag a corner table on the first floor where we had red wine and tapas and a great view of the action around the bar. It is really a cozy neighborhood place; we are glad that we gave it a second chance and were able to enjoy the atmosphere with the local people and not sit in the sterile “tourist section� upstairs.

Tomb of Christopher Columbus (?)

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Monday, May 2

Evora

Got a late start after dragging our bags down the street to the public parking, but the Monday holiday made quick work of getting out of town, as there was virtually no traffic. Took the N 433, a picturesque route through the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche; mountain landscapes punctuated by forests and small villages. At Aracena, visited the Gruta de las Maravillas, or Cave of Marvels, where we took a 45-minute tour in Spanish (aided by English audio guides) down 330 feet to a series of grottos and caves with other-worldly formations of limestone and minerals, several of which had been used in films, from Journey to the Center of the Earth to Clash of the Titans. It was somewhat claustrophobic in places and the humidity was nearly 100% and we were glad to get back to the open air.

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Arcena

Continued a short distance to Jabugo, an isolated mountain village famous for its cured ham and sausages. Visited several shops; came away with ham to take back with us, and some to enjoy now, along with a bottle of fino.

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Around 3:00, crossed into Portugal with no fanfare other than a graffitidefaced sign; immediately found the roads to be of inferior quality. Fifty kilometers from Evora, picked up some rain and a good deal of traffic. A UNESCO-designated site, Evora has attractive Moorish characteristics as well as representative architecture from Rome to the Renaissance. Had a difficult time finding the Pousada dos Loios. I asked for directions at the tourist office; the woman was horrified when I pointed out our car in the middle of a pedestrian only plaza. She provided me with a map and a circuitous route around the city walls to the cathedral, next to which the pousada is situated, in a former 15th century monastery. Our room, like all in the hotel, was once a monk’s cell.

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Took a walk around the cathedral to get a sense of the area; we will do more touring in the morning. While we were sitting in the bar, having a drink before dinner, were surprised to see Joanne and Paul Ruxin from Chicago walk past us. They are part of a group touring Portugal and Spain. It is amazing how often these coincidences occur, when friends from home cross paths on the other side of the world. Arrived an hour early for dinner, as we did not realize that there was a time change from Spain to Portugal. Enjoyed a nice meal in the old cloisters of the monastery, with local wines, meats, and cheese. Pedro, our waiter, explained why he believes Portuguese ham is better and more naturally cured than that from Spain.

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Evora A UNESCO Site

Tuesday, May 3

Lisbon

By the time the cathedral had opened at 9:00, we had eaten breakfast, checked out of the pousada, and retaken our pictures of the Roman Temple with the sun illuminating it nicely. Enjoyed the simple, peaceful cloisters, which we had to ourselves, and went through the cathedral, which was not one of our favorites. On the autopiste to Lisbon at 10:00; the 86 kilometers passed quickly in the fast traffic; we were going 75 mph and people were zipping past like we were parked.

Crossed over the new Ponte 25 de April; had

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a free trip across as we could not figure out what toll lane to be in and just went on through. Jake worked his magic again and we easily found York House, a 17th century convent located in the Alcantara district; we had received word from the hotel that parking would be a big problem as they only have two spaces allotted but we arrived so early that we were able to take one of them.

Climbed up several flights of ancient stone steps through a leafy terraced garden to the reception desk.

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Our room was not ready, so we left our bags and took a taxi to the Belem area to see two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Torre de Belem and the Mosterio dos Hieronimos.

Started with the Mosterio, joining a long, slow-moving line to buy tickets, noting that a good number of people just walked in without standing in line or paying. This Hieronymite monastery was built in the early 16th century on the site of a former hermitage by King Dom Manuel and is considered (according to our guide books) to be the “jewel of Manueline art.” The Manueline was a short-lived period, lasting only the thirty years from 1490 to 1520, but it marked a transition from the Gothic to the Renaissance style in Portugal and reflected the passion of the Portuguese people for the sea and for the faraway places newly discovered by such men as Vasco de Gama.

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novelty and movement was added— twisted columns, embellished arches, and the addition of nautical themes.

We started in the cloisters, so profuse in sculptural detail that Jake commented that it was difficult to assimilate it all. I found it helpful to try and narrow my observation to Green Men and was rewarded with many different forms. Somehow, having a focus helps me to see everything with more clarity.

Although the wait to get in had been long, once we were there it did not seem crowded. Spent a long time walking around both levels and exploring the wonderful sculptures that rewarded the careful observer. I thought that the adjoining Igreja de Santa Maria was just beautiful. The decoration of the massive pillars and the network vaulting, both designed

by Manueline sculptor Joar de Castilho, withstood the devastating earthquake of 1755, and are thus especially precious.

Mosterio dos Hieronimos A UNESCO Site

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Igreja de Santa Maria

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Tomb of Vasco da Gama

After we left the church, we visited the Marine Museum, housed in the other end of the same building, where we tried with limited success to photograph the collection of models of seafaring vessels over the centuries. Crossed under the train tracks to reach what we thought was the Torre de Belem but discovered later was the Padrao dos Descobrimentos or “Monument of Discoveries,” erected in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of death of Henry the Navigator.

Caught a taxi to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga; Jake was excited to return to the magnificent polyptych, The Adoration of St. Vincent by Portuguese painter Nuno Goncalves. A big disappointment to find that the entire third floor that houses the Portuguese masters is under renovation and not open. Went through the rest of the collection, including The Temptation of St. Anthony by Hieronymus Bosch, a Bruegel, and Zubaran’s Twelve Apostles, among others, but Jake was still disappointed.

I enjoyed the extensive collection of Portuguese ceramics and a neat collection of household artifacts, including candlesticks and cake molds. Short walk back to the hotel where we relaxed with wine and peanuts on the pleasant courtyard.

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Pad rao dos Descob rimentos

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

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Roundabout taxi ride to the Tasca da Esquina, a new restaurant in the Campo de Ourique barrio by chef Vitor Sobral; our driver had no idea where it was and had to stop and ask for directions twice. Located it just a couple of minutes past our 8:00 reservation time. The place was small and sleek; the minimalist décor was offset by rough accents like an old painted door and a rusting garden ladder. We chose the degustation menu with wine parings and agreed that it was the best meal of the trip. Pear soup, tuna “hamburgers,” mushrooms and calamari, tiny clam-like shellfish with a buttery onion sauce, salt cod and potatoes in a cream sauce, roast beef with tomato and bread crumbs, Portuguese sheep cheese, plus a tiny Crème Brule and chocolate mousse combination. All were served with small pours of various local wines and a port. I asked Joao, our waiter, how he came to speak such perfect English and he told us his parents were from Macao and brought him up speaking English as well as Portuguese and Cantonese. When I inquired about the area where the restaurant is located, he told us that there is a saying that local people have, “Res ves Campo de Ourique,” which means something like, “So close…” referring to the fact that the area was uniquely spared in the great earthquake of 1755 due to its height above the rest of the city.

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After espresso, we took a taxi to Sr. Vinho, a casa de fados in the Lapa section, to hear fado (meaning “fate”), Portugal’s unique musical form.

Although we could not understand the words, it was easy to feel the emotion that the singers portrayed, to the soft accompaniment of 12-string guitars.

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Wednesday, May 4

Lisbon

Had a leisurely morning (unusual for Jake); at 10:30 took a taxi to the real Torre de Belem, a short distance from the monument we had misidentified yesterday. Followed the Green Guide’s suggestion that we need not tour it and instead asked the driver to wait for us while we took some pictures of the tower, completed in 1519 as a defense in the middle of the Tagus River.

Today, this Romasesque-Gothic structure rests securely on the north shore and has earned UNESCO heritage status. It was particularly interesting for us to note the small domes that resemble those found in Morocco, where the architect, Francisco de Arruda, had travelled.

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Torre de Belem A UNESCO Site

Our driver deposited us at the door of the Gulbenkian Museum. What a treat that was!

There is nothing like a collection of art, meticulously chosen piece by piece by someone with unlimited wealth. We particularly enjoyed the rugs from Perisa, Iznik pottery from Turkey, porcelain from China, and lacquerware from Japan. I found two appealing Byrne-Jones paintings and two Turners; we saw beautiful examples from the Flemish School, and lovely works by Degas, Renoir, and Rembrandt. Our usual game of “What would you carry out under your coat?� did not work; we would have had to hire a moving van.

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Another taxi carried us high over the city to the Alfama quarter, leaving us at the Castelo de Sao Jorge where we took in the view and then started down the narrow winding streets to the Se, or cathedral, with an austere Romanesque nave. Jumped onto one of Lisbon’s iconic wood-paneled trams, called electricos, for a ride down the hill, passing tile-faced buildings and mosaicpaved streets, to the Rossio. Walked down the wide Rua Augusta to the Praca do Comercio, where the Royal Palace once stood until its destruction in the earthquake.

Stopped for a wine before hailing another taxi back to the hotel, feeling that we have had a good sampling of the different areas of Lisbon. Dinner at Solar dos Nunes, a Michelin Bib on the Rua dos Lusfadas; a warm, traditional Portuguese restaurant serving regional food and wine. We shared a bubbling pot of fish stew served with crusty rolls, and a bottle of white wine from the Alentejano region.

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Castelo de Sao Jorge

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a five-week trip to Morocco, southern Spain, and Portugal from April 4 to May 10, 2011. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2011.

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