2010 Maritimes 2

Newfoundland and the Maritimes

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a three-week trip to the Canadian maritime provinces and the US northeastern coastal states, from September 7October 1, 2010. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2010. V. 2

Newfoundland and the Maritimes 2 September 7 - October 1, 2010

There is one knows not what sweet mystery about this sea, whose gently awful stirrings seem to speak of some hidden soul beneath.

Herman Melville

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Monday, September 20 Stephenville, NL A comfortable night under a homemade quilt in our cozy room, the window open to sounds of the sea. Set the alarm for 6:00 so that we could get an early start for Western Brook Pond, with the hope that we would be able to take the boat tour. David set out cereal, muffins, and coffee for us before he left for his long drive to St. John’s. The sun broke though the clouds as we left the house, creating a beautiful pink cast on the water. Took the inland road back; saw numerous hunters and more numerous hunters’ pickups along the road, confirming that the season is underway.

Were just commenting that we thought that might be the reason that we had not seen any moose, when we saw one in the roadside brush no more than 30 feet away; no chance to take a picture though. Early lunch in Cow Head at the Shallow Bay Motel; Jake was interested to try the cod tongues that were on the menu; I had a taste and did not care for their chewy, fatty consistency. Bought park passes and arrived at the Western Brook Pond parking lot at noon.

A two-mile gentle hike across the boggy coastal plain. A boardwalk eased crossing the marshy portions; interesting vegetation along the way. Boarded the boat at 1:00 for a two-hour cruise; Jake promptly positioned himself at the

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head of the bow, a prime photo platform. We motored through a spectacular gorge flanked by almost vertical cliffs rising 2000 feet; passed several waterfalls. Although the weather was not perfect, we considered ourselves lucky that it was good enough for us to go and that the clouds descended only as we were on the way back. Hiked back to the car and were on the road again at 3:40, going west toward Port aux Basques where we will take the ferry to Sydney tomorrow. The rain finally caught up with us and we decided to look for a hotel in Corner Brook, the second largest city in Newfoundland. What we found was an ugly, hilly community overshadowed by an unsightly paper mill.

Finding nothing, we decided to keep going, as every mile we traveled today would be one less tomorrow. Had to go out of our way to Stephenville where we found a Holiday Inn that by 8:00 seemed like a heavenly alternative. Problem was, it was full. Ended up at the Dreamcatcher, a tacky motel where the receptionist served double duty as a bartender through the connecting door between the front desk and the bar. Dropped off our things and went out to find a place to eat. Best we could do was Pizza Delight and a couple of beers, and then bed.

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Tuesday, September 21 Louisbourg, NS Showering and dressing was pretty cursory at the Dreamcatcher. The shower controls had been installed upside down so that H and C were reversed and Jake discovered that the non-slip tub mat was slipperier than the tub; when he reached for the grab bar it came off in his hand. There was only a bulb in the bathroom ceiling, making shaving a challenge and the electrical plate was off, revealing exposed wires. Back on the T.C. H. by 7:30 for the remaining 90 miles to Port aux Basques. After a period of absolutely no traffic, sixty miles out we came upon a huge number of autos, trucks, and car transporters that indicated that the morning ferry had arrived. Were early enough for breakfast at Tim Horton’s before lining up at 9:30 to board the MV Caribou for the 11:30 crossing to Sydney. Once aboard, were able to find a table near an electrical outlet so that I could plug in my laptop. As we waited to leave, Jake

worked on his trip calculations and told me that we had driven over 1500 miles in Newfoundland. As we got underway, the gentle swells became 16-20 foot waves, a result of Hurricane Igor. Members of the purser’s office told us that it was about as rough as it got before they decide to cancel the crossing. Three hours into the worst of it, the captain changed course, following a “cow path” closer to shore and achieving smoother (and longer) ride. We eventually arrived in Sydney at 7:00, seven hours later, rather than the usual five or six. (I congratulated Jake on making reservations on the longer ferry in the open Atlantic for our first crossing to Newfoundland.) Arrived at the Cranberry Cove B & B in Louisbourg just before the 8:00 cut-off registration time and checked in with Simms LeMoine before going up the street for a salmon dinner at the Grubstake Restaurant, a Louisbourg institution since 1972.

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Wednesday, September 22 Guysborough, NS Short drive from the Cranberry Cove to the Canadian National Historic site of Louisbourg, the great and “impregnable” French fortress that was built in 1719, shuffled back and forth twice between the British and the French, and finally destroyed in 1760. We were anxious to visit this Canadian version of Williamsburg, as its restoration was the most expensive preservation project ever undertaken by the Government of Canada. Loved our three-hour visit, where every attempt was made to awaken the senses to everyday life in the mideighteenth century. Actors in period costume explained their lives and demonstrated their livelihoods: fishermen, tradesmen, soldiers, housewives. Had an extended conversation with a woman who was demonstrating root basket making. We exchanged emails, as she promised to make one for me; she normally does not offer her work for sale. Consequently, we bought a book about Acadian root baskets from the gift shop.

Around 2:00, drove to Sydney and visited the Cape Breton Center for Craft and Design where we had a chance to see the work of the island’s best artisans; Jake bought me a felted hat

by Maggie Miller to keep my unruly hair down in the wind.

Drove along the east side of Bras d’Or to Port Hawkesbury and took the Canso Causeway to Guysborough where we had reservations at Des Barres Manor, the 1837 home of Supreme Court Justice W. F. Des Barres. As it was the end of the season, we were the only guests at the inn. Enjoyed Atlantic salmon and Digby scallops cooked just for us by our personal chef, Janet Riddy of Shallow Brook, Newfoundland. Kind of a strange evening with the place to ourselves (shades of The Shining) but nice too. To bed with a fresh breeze blowing though our open windows.

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Thursday, September 23 Halifax, NS Left town at 9:30 after exploring Guysborough; visited a small 1873 Anglican church in its setting of dark pines.

Followed a back road to Sherbrooke and looked in at the front gate of the restored nineteenth century village but decided not to take the time to go through it. Followed Marine Drive along the Atlantic coast, enjoying the scenery on this sunny day (the weather makes such a difference): pine-covered islands nestled near the shore and neat little houses clustered in the rolling countryside.

Near Tangier, passed a colorful white clapboard house covered with folk art and made a U-turn to get a closer look. I got out to take pictures and walked around to the back, following a collection of brightly painted carvings and primitive signs (“Folk Art for Sale—Don’t Worry There’s No Dog”, “To Cure Baldness, Rub Darren’s Head”, “Jesus Saves”, “Donations If You Want”. Around

the side of the house, a sign with a carved pointing finger proclaimed, “Gallery Is In That Building.” Went inside a small shed and looked around; the artist came from the house and introduced himself as Barry Colpitts. He seemed to be somewhere in this 40s and was wearing a plaid shirt and a friendly smile. Learned that he lives alone, has no computer or working car, and has been creating his art for 20 years. Barry gave us a tour of his workshop, an old barn decorated with more of his work, including a wooden goose posted outside and painted with the words, “Look Out For Turds”. His abandoned truck was in the adjacent field, decorated with colorful fish and “Trust In God And Don’t Worry About Nothing” painted on the tailgate. We asked him to make us a whale that he promised to send in about four weeks.

We will see how that turns out.

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Arrived in Halifax at 2:00, exactly when Jake said we would. Going over the bridge from Dartmouth, Jake got in the cash lane to pay the toll. He gave the attendant a C$2 coin for the C$.75 toll and she gave him money back.

As we drove on, we heard a loud buzzer going off; did not realize that she had given him C$2 in change so that he could put the toll amount in the drum. Rip off Halifax No. 1. Ascended the hill to the star-shaped Citadel that overlooks the city and one of the finest harbors in the world. Walked around its walls, enjoying the views.

Checked out the Historic Properties on the waterfront.

Renovated nineteenth century stone and clapboard warehouses are now shops and restaurants. Were a little disappointed, however, that the area was not more interesting. In retrieving the car, discovered that the parking attendant had stepped away from the booth so there was nothing to do but drive on. Rip off Halifax No. 2. Drove down to the harbor area where a massive cruise

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ship was docked before checking into the Halliburton House, a boutique hotel consisting of three nineteenth century townhouses located near Dalhousie University.

Our pleasant room was small and at the top of steep, winding stairs; it was a job to get our suitcases up to the room and another job to find places to stash them. Drove up to the Spring Hill area where we had reservations at Fid Resto, a “slow-food” (back to basics and local suppliers) restaurant owned by chef Dennis Johnston, tucked in a small shopping center. The atmosphere was clean and spare, with the only decoration a collection of fids, the wooden nautical tools used to repair rope. While Jake had beef cheeks, I chose Farmer’s Market Inspiration, a Bento box arranged with a selection of freshly cooked local vegetables that was divine. When we tried to leave the parking garage after dinner, the machine would not accept our ticket and Jake had to ring for an attendant who manually raised the arm for us. Rip off

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Friday, September 24 Lunenburg, NS On the way out of Halifax, stopped at a Cora Café to buy a signature water bottle for Cora Climo.

Twenty-five miles to Peggy’s Cove on Hwy. 3 and 333. Noticed more fall color in the trees than we’d seen so far. Peggy’s Cove is a tiny village set on a treeless outcropping of massive boulders. If it were undiscovered, it would be unbelievably photogenic with its weathered buildings set within the rocks, but when we arrived at 9:30, found that at least ten tour buses were there ahead of us. Dodged raindrops and tourists to try and capture its rugged beauty. Drove the coastal road with views of secluded coves reflected in the water. At Chester, a charming town of towering elms and New England frame houses, enjoyed driving up and down streets, choosing what houses we liked best. A short drive to Mahone Bay, founded in 1754 by Captain Ephraim Cook and once a center of piracy. Today it is a center of gift shops. Had no inclination to linger.

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Arrived in Lunenburg just after noon and drove the streets of this picturesque 1753 German village that has been designated a UNESCO site. Checked into the Mariner King Inn and were shown to a room with a fireplace in the Candy Apple building. Lunch at Magnolia’s Grill; soups and mussels and Keith’s I.P.A. in a casual eatery that looked more like an old fashioned ice-cream parlor than an award-winning restaurant. Liked it so much that we made reservations for dinner. Went through the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, housed in a former fish-processing plant on the waterfront.

Containing three floors of maritime exhibits, it also has a surprising number of boats both inside and out, from dories to the Theresa E. Connor, a commercial saltbank schooner; the famed Bluenose was sailing elsewhere. Were surprised at the number of talks and displays at the museum even on a weekday at the end of the season. Enjoyed talking to Tim

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Chance, President of the South Shore Ship Modellers Guild, who gave us a sense of the work involved in creating a model ship; he was working on his own project at the museum. Up the hill, saw a chandler’s shop that looked interesting but was open only by appointment; were able to arrange to meet Maggie at the shop at 6:00. Turned out to be an interesting encounter, for we learned that the shop is home base for the Picton Castle, a 180-foot square-rigged sailing ship. Its 14month voyages around the world take a professional crew of 14 and 40 working—and paying—passengers. Maggie told us that the ship calls at remote Pacific islands including Pitcairn.

Our nautical purchases included a fid (the tool used to splice rope that is the namesake of our Halifax restaurant) that was made on Pitcairn by a descendant of the infamous Fletcher Christian of the Bounty. Dinner at Magnolia’s was great but we were too late for the lobster linguini.

Old Town Lunenburg A UNESCO Site

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Saturday, September 25

Wolfville, NS

The nicest breakfast of the trip was served in the hotel’s sunroom, although there was no sun. Grey and humid when we left Lunenburg at 9:00 and drove through rolling farmland to pick up Hwy. 103 west to Liverpool. Visited the lighthouse there and thought about going to the Rossignol Cultural Center but discovered it to be closed; it did not look too great anyway.

Took Hwy. 8 north to the Bay of Fundy and the Annapolis Valley. Saw that some of the trees were brilliant red; others had started to turn from green to yellow. As a result of reading a 13-year-old article in the New York Times, detoured to Bear River, a great decision. At Flight of Fancy, owner Rob assured us that his inventory was 70 percent Nova Scotian and 100 percent Canadian. We were particularly interested in ash baskets made by Chief Greg McEwan of the Bear River First Nation.

After getting directions from Rob, drove over a bridge and up a hill to Beartown Baskets, where we found the retired chief at

work in a small shed in the woods. Lean and spiky haired, Chief Greg gave us a friendly greeting and immediately set about demonstrating how he works with ash by making a spirit wand for me. We watched as he put a handle and the finishing touches on a small basket that we decided to buy. When he left us for a few minutes to add the binding to our basket, we studied the walls, noting pictures of him with the Pope, the Queen, and the Ambassador of Mexico. After he signed and dated our basket, we returned to Flight of Fancy. We bought a couple of beautifully rendered wooden kitchen implements and another basket. The little town was holding a “Fall for Bear River” celebration; scarecrows decorated the main street and there were activities at the water’s edge, including flea market tables and canoe displays. A number of people were dressed in period costumes too. Would have loved to have spent the afternoon there, but we had places to go.

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It was a 15-minute drive to Annapolis Royal, the

attractive town that bills itself as “Canada’s Birthplace.” Narrow streets and historic buildings overlook the Annapolis Basin. The town’s quiet charm belies its turbulent past as the site of both FrenchEnglish battles and Acadian struggles. The Fort Anne National Historic Site is a green expanse in the center of town; it was perhaps the most fought-over place in Canada. Although the weather was foggy and damp, we enjoyed our short visit there and imagined how nice it must be on a sunny day. Decided to take a detour to Port Royal National Historic Park. The site of a replica of Canada’s first permanent settlement (1605-1613), the collection of dark, weathered buildings around a central courtyard were originally designed by Champlain. As we drove on to Wolfville, had a peek of sun. Arrived at 5:00 and after making reservations at Tempest for 6:30, checked into Victoria’s Historic Inn, a rambling structure on the main road. Our room was nice in a full-of-doilies kind of way; shared a glass of wine before dinner at Chef Michael Howell’s award-winning “slow-food” restaurant.

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Fort Anne National Historic Site

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Port-Royal National Historic Site

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Sunday, September 26 Bar Harbor, ME

Our last day in Canada. Away at 9:00 to Grand-Pre National Historic Site, a couple of miles down the road. Unfortunately, we did not have the time to spend in the park, transformed from a seventeenth century Arcadian village into a memorial to the Acadian people. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow chose Grand-Pre as the setting for his 1847 poem, Evangeline, the story of two lovers separated during the time of the Acadian Deportation. Drove north to Truro through lush farmland and vineyards brightened by occasional patches of sun. At Truro, turned west to New Brunswick and crossed over the provincial line just after noon. Joined the T.C.H. 2 to Moncton and then south to St. John on Hwy. 1 that became US Hwy. 1 at Calais, (pronounced “Callous” by the US Customs officer). Took the scenic route to Bar Harbor, arriving around 5:30 after more than eight hours on the road. Plenty of vacancies; took a nondescript room at the Grand Hotel in the center of town.

Dinner at Poor Boy’s Gourmet where we both had chowder and lobster. After dinner, walked the town, looking in the windows of an endless number of gift shops. Felt a real fall chill in the air as we returned to our room.

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Monday, September 27

Saco, ME

At 8:00, drove the six miles to Acadia National Park on Mt. Desert (pronounced “dessert”). Clouds over Cadillac Mountain looked ominous. Took the park’s loop road first, hoping that the weather would improve before we ascended the mountain.

Sweeping seascapes and panoramas of pink granite boulders and island-studded waters at every turn. Unfortunately, the view from the mountain was obscured by low clouds and our pictures were not worth much. Started down the eastern coast of Maine on Hwy. 1; lovely water views on one side and interesting small towns on the other. Too bad the weather was not more accommodating. At Searsport, stopped at the Penobscot Marine Museum, a complex of eight buildings that includes two sea captains’ homes and a collection of marine paintings, models, and artifacts. We were fortunate that we could see the Tiffany windows in the Congregational Church, as it is only open to 46

visitors for 30 minutes a day. In the Merithew House gallery, were charmed by a series of whimsical shadowboxes by AnneEmmanuelle Marpeau of Brittany that depicted stories from Maine’s coastal history. Learned from a docent that at one point, Searsport had more sea captains than any other port in the United States. Many of the captains’ wives would accompany their husbands on cruises that lasted up to three years; their children were born at sea. Further south, we liked the town of Belfast with its handsome brick buildings and a pleasant harbor where small craft were moored. Stopped in Lincolnville Beach for fried clams and a lobster roll at the Lobster Pound, with a view over Penobscot Bay. Camden is another attractive town, snuggled at the foot of the Camden Hills and overlooking the bay, but we decided that a drive up Mt. Battle would not afford a view with the weather such as it was.

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A few miles further south, we stopped at Rockland to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum and its Wyeth Family Gallery, a museum that has become a nationally acclaimed center for the study of Maine artists. I loved their exhibit of Maine hooked rugs, “Rug Hooking in Maine and Beyond.” After seeing the beautiful Acadian rugs in Cheticamp in Nova Scotia, I found that this exhibit added to my appreciation of the complexity and diversity of the craft. Also saw “The Wyeths’ Wyeths”, an exhibit of paintings by three generations of Wyeth men that were owned by members of the family. When we came out of the building, it was raining. The weather continued to deteriorate as we drove south and lots of traffic made an unpleasant trip. Hoped to visit the Marine Museum in Bath but by the time we finally got there, it was only 20 minutes before closing time. Jake wanted to show me the L.L. Bean facility in Freeport; the town has an amazing array of high-end outlets displayed along both main and side streets. Decided to skip going into Portland and found a Hampton Inn a few miles south of the city in Saco, near I-95. More lobster rolls and pumpkin beer (good!) at nearby Kerryman’s Pub; back to the room to watch a Chicago football game.

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Tuesday, September 28 Disappointing weather once again as we got on I-95 south at 9:00; skirted Boston and drove to New Bedford, arriving around 11:30. Returned to the Whaling Museum; we had enjoyed it so much on our 2007 Wilkie tour. Fortunate timing, as the new Wattles Gallery had just opened in an adjacent, beautifully restored bank five weeks ago. This time, were able to climb aboard the half-scale model of the fully rigged whaling bark Lagoda; on our last visit, it was in the process of restoration. I really like this museum; it captures the romance and adventure of the whaling industry with engaging exhibits and enchanting artifacts. I love the sailors’ scrimshaw and love tokens and the prints and paintings depicting exciting scenes of whaling victories and disasters. Walked across the street to the Seamen’s Bethel, the 1832 chapel described in Melville’s Moby-Dick; the pulpit is designed to look like the hull of a whaleboat. Plaques

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Newport, RI covered the walls in remembrance of those who were lost at sea, some as recently as 2007. From New Bedford, it was less than an hour’s drive to Newport.

As we arrived early, decided to look for the small cemetery where John Coggeshall, the first president of Rhode Island, is buried. (I recently learned that he was my twelfth generation grandfather when I researched my roots for the Colonial Dames.) Found it nestled behind a vine-covered stone wall on Coggeshall Street and stopped to take a picture from behind the locked iron gate. Hillary had just gotten home from work when we pulled up in her driveway. Chatted over wine and cheese. While Jake took a nap, Hillary and I took Dax for a walk around the grounds of the Eisenhower House; back just as it turned dark. Chowder and beer in the cozy black-paneled bar at the While Horse Tavern near Washington Square. Established in 1673, it bills itself as the oldest operating tavern in America.

The Lagoda

A fully-rigged half sized model

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A Female Blue Whale with Fetus

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The Breakers, Newport

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Wednesday, September 29 Williamstown, MA Had breakfast at the Franklin Spa (really, an old-fashioned diner) with Hillary; said good-by to her until next weekend when she will be with us in Chicago. Visited the Breakers, the 1895 Cornelius Vanderbilt estate that is the grand dame of the Newport Mansions, designed by Richard Morris Hunt to resemble a High-Renaissance Italian palace. It has 70 bedrooms and 20 baths. With the audio tour, we were able to catch the highlights without hearing more than we wanted. The weather had greatly improved as we drove north and got on the Mass Turnpike; driving north towards Williamstown, we enjoyed the beautiful fall day; the leaves really started to show their color.

When we got on the Mohawk Trail (Route 2) west, pulled off at several overlooks to see picture-postcard scenes of emerging fall foliage against the distant purple Berkshires. Jake is always so happy when he comes “home” to Williamstown. Visited the Clark Museum of Art on the Williams College campus. An ambitious long-term plan for this first-class art museum includes construction of two new buildings, one of which, the Stone Hill Center, has recently been completed. We started there with an installation by Spanish artist Juan Munoz that we found captivating, especially Many Times, a room full of ¾-sized Asian men in clusters of two, three, and more, as well as single figures.

As we walked among them, I had the strangest feeling that I was somehow crashing a party and yet was unseen, or at least unnoticed, by the people there. Jake and I found ourselves smiling at each other over those diminutive figures. In another room, Hotel Declercq II was a small balcony removed from context and placed high on the wall, playing against the light that came in from the nearby window. The space was fantastic and brought to life these pieces by an artist whose 20-year career was shortened by his death at 48 in 2001. In the main building, we went though the impressive permanent collection. Another Munoz installation, Hanging Figure, featured just that: a man dangling on a rope from the ceiling; disconcerting to find him there amongst the Monets, Homers, and Pissarros, seemingly ignored by museum visitors. Joined the museum so that we could take advantage of some nice items in the gift shop. Drove around the Williams campus to see what is new, and down to the sports fields to see what was going on. Checked into the cozy but dated Maple Terrace and took advantage of our large room to organize our things so that we don’t have to do it in front of 1320. Down to Spring Street for dinner at Spice Root, the Indian restaurant we enjoyed so much last time we were here. The food was just as good as we remembered, down to the Masala chai.

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Thursday, September 30 Cleveland, OH Got away by 8:30 on the Taconic Trail to Troy; what would have been a lovely drive was obscured by foggy drizzle. Glad we had such good weather yesterday. Got on the New York Thruway around 10:00 and drove to East Aurora in an unrelenting heavy rain. Brief stop at an antique shop that I had particularly loved when we were there before; unfortunately it was closed. Back on the road, drove in pounding rain until we reached the Ohio state line. The clouds finally cleared out just in time for us to deal with bad glare as the sun was setting. Unable to connect with Mike; a simple dinner at Bob Evans and an early night.

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Friday, October 1 Chicago, IL

A glorious day for our drive back to Chicago.

Where was this weather before? It has been an exceptional three weeks that have given me an appreciation of those who call the Maritimes home and whose livelihood depends on the sea.

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Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland

Itinerary SEPTEMBER Tuesday 7

Depart CHICAGO Route: I 94: Detroit; Ambassador Bridge; Windsor; Rte 401: London, Kitchener Dinner: Bedford Academy, 36 Prince Arthur Ave, at 19:00 Park Hyatt Toronto: (877/827-1356); Room 1421 4 Avenue Road TORONTO, ON 816 kms/ 510 miles

Wednesday 8

Breakfast: Second Cup Cafe Route: Rte 401, Ontario; Rtes 20, 720, Quebec; Montreal Sites: Vieux Montreal: Notre-Dame Basilica, Place Jacques-Cartier Entertainment: Quattro; Le Place d’Armes Hotel: Suite 701 Lounge Dinner: Au Pied du Cochon, 536 rue Duluth Est, at 19:30 Le Place d’Armes Hotel: (514/842-2634), Room 1301 55 Saint Jacques Ouest MONTREAL, QC 536 kms/ 335 miles

Thursday 9

Breakfast: Café Mon Plaisir Route: Rte 40: Quebec City Sites: Haute-Ville/Vieux Port (UNESCO Site): Antique shops, funicular, Place d’Armes, Citadelle Lunch: Bistro du Cap, Rue Sous Le Cap, Vieux-Port, at 13:30 Dinner: L’Échaudé, 73, Rue Sault-au-Matelot, Vieux-Port, at 18:30 Le Saint-Pierre: (888/268-1017); Room 203 Rue St-Pierre, Lower Town QUEBEC CITY, QC 282 kms/ 176 miles 75

Friday 10

Breakfast: Le Saint-Pierre Route: Charlevoix Coast: Route de Fleuves, Baie St-Paul, La Malbaie; La Baie; Chicoutimi; Ste-Rose-du-Nord;

Tadoussac Dinner: La Bolée, 164, Rue Morin Hotel Tadoussac: (800/561-0718); Room 108 165, du Bord-de-l’Eau Rue TADOUSSAC, QC 456 kms/ 285 miles Saturday 11

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Sunday 12

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Breakfast: Hotel Tadoussac: Le Coverdale Dining Room Route: Les Escoumins; ferry; Trois-Pistoles, Le Bic Sites: Tadoussac: harbor, St Lawrence River, Fjord du Saguenay, Le Bic Activities: Croisiere AML Cruises (MV Cavalier de Fleuve): whale watch and Saguenay Fjord: depart Tadoussac at return Tadoussac at 14:15 Lunch: Le Reve Doux (Les Escoumins), 287 Route 138, at 14:30 Depart Les Escoumins, on La Compagnie de Navigation des Basques (MV L’Heritage I) ferry at 16:30 Arrive Trois-Pistoles, at 18:00 (crossing: 1:30 calm) Dinner: Chez St-Pierre, 150 Avenue de la Cathedrale, at 19:30 Hotel Rimouski: (800/463-0755); Room 3043 225, Boulevard Rene-Lepage Est RIMOUSKI, QC 120 kms/ 75 miles Breakfast: Hotel Rimouski Route: Gaspe Peninsula: Routes 132, 197, 132 Sites: Ste-Flavie: Marcel Ganon house; Grand-Metis: Reford Gardens; Cap-des-Rosiers: lighthouse; Perce: Rocher Perce Dinner: La Maison du Pêcheur, 155, Place du Quai, at 20:00 Hotel La Normandie: Room 51 221, Route 132 Ouest PERCE, QC 443 kms/ 277 miles

Monday 13

Breakfast: Le Sieur de Pabos (Chandler) Route: Campbellton, NB; Miramichi; Shediac; Confederation Bridge; Charlottetown Dinner: The Gahan House Pub and Brewery, 126 Sydney Street, at 19:30 Shipwright Inn: Chart Room 51 Fitzroy St. CHARLOTTETOWN, PE 702 kms/ 439 miles

Tuesday 14

Breakfast: Shipwright Inn Route: Blue Heron Drive: Green Gables House, Lucy Maud Montgomery House, Malpeque Bay, North London; Kensington; Richmond; Victoria Dinner: Water-Prince Corner Shop, 141 Water Street, at 19:00 Shipwright Inn: Chart Room CHARLOTTETOWN, PE 283 kms/ 177 miles

Wednesday 15 Breakfast: Shipwright Inn Route: Wood Island; ferry Caribou; Port Hastings; Cabot Trail; North Sydney Depart Wood Island, PE on Northumberland Ferries (MV Holiday Island) at 09:40 Arrive Caribou, NS at 11:10 (crossing: 1:30 calm) Sites: Ceilidh Trail; Cabot Trail; Cheticamp: Joe’s Scarecrows, Acadian Culture Center; Cape Breton Highlands; Gaelic Coast Dinner: MV Joseph and Clara Smallwood Depart North Sydney, N.S. on Marine Atlantic Ferry (MV Joseph and Clara Smallwood) at 21:00; reserved seats EN ROUTE TO NEWFOUNDLAND 550 kms/ 344 miles

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Thursday 16

Breakfast: MV Joseph and Clara Smallwood Arrive Argentia, NL on Marine Atlantic Ferry at 12:30 (crossing: 15:00: gentle) St John’s: Newfoundland Crafts Council, Signal Hill, The Rooms, Cochran and Duckworth Street homes Dinner: George Street Hot Dog Vendor Entertainment: George Street: Trapper John’s (Screech In), O’Reilly’s Ryan Mansion: Suite 203 21 Rennies Mill Road ST. JOHN’S, NL 155 kms/ 97 miles

Friday 17

Breakfast: Ryan Mansion Sites: Dildo; Bonavista: Lighthouse, Ryan Premises NHS, Cabot Monument; Trinity Lunch: Mary Brown’s Chicken (Clarenville) Dinner: Twine Loft Restaurant, High Street, at 19:30 Artisan Inn: Room 2 High Street TRINITY, NL 395 kms/ 247 miles

Saturday 18

Breakfast: Artisan Inn Route: Clarenville; Gander; Deer Lake; Bonne Bay; Trout River; Rocky Harbour Sites: Gros Morne NP (UNESCO Site): Tablelands, Trout River Pond Dinner: Earle’s Video & Convenience, 111 Main Street, at 19:30; Anchor Pub Wild Flowers Bed and Breakfast: Room 3 108 Main Street North ROCKY HARBOUR, NL 667 kms/ 417 miles

Sunday 19

Breakfast: Wild Flowers Bed and Breakfast Route: Viking Trail: SS Elsie wreck; Forrest Cove, St. Barbe; Saint Antony’s Grenfell sites; L’Anse aux Meadows NHS (UNESCO Site); Cape Onion Dinner: The Tickle Inn at 19:30 The Tickle Inn: Room 1 Cape Onion CAPE ONION, NL 442 kms/ 276 miles

Monday 20

Breakfast: The Tickle Inn Route: French Shore; Rocky Harbour; Deer Lake; Corner Brook; St. George’s Sites: Gros Morne NP: Western Brook Pond hike and boat tour (13:00 to 15:00) Lunch: Shallow Bay Motel Restaurant (Cow Head) Dinner: Pizza Delight, 37 Main Street, at 20:30 Dreamcatcher Lodge: Room 111 14 Main Street STEPHENVILLE, NL 626 kms/ 391 mile

Tuesday 21

Breakfast: Tim Horton’s (Port aux Basques) Route: to Port aux Basques: 165ks/103 miles; ferry; to Louisbourg: 53 ks/ 33 miles Depart Port aux Basques, NL on Marine Atlantic Ferry (MV Caribou) at 11:30 Arrive North Sydney, NS at 18:45 (crossing 7:45: rough: from Hurricane Igor) Dinner: The Grubstake Restaurant, 7499 Main Street, at 20:10 Cranberry Cove Inn: Isle Royal Room 12 Wolfe Street LOUISBOURG, NS 226 kms/ 141 miles Total Driving in Newfoundland:

2,431 kms/1,532 miles

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Wednesday 22

Breakfast: Louisbourg Harbour Inn Route: Louisbourg; Sydney; St. Peter’s; Port Hastings; Sand Point Sites: Fortress of Louisbourg NHS; Cape Breton Craft Center; Bras d’Or Lake Dinner: Des Barres Manor at 19:00 Des Barres Manor: Intervale Room 90 Church Street GUYSBOROUGH, NS 238 kms/ 149 miles

Thursday 23

Breakfast: Des Barres Manor Route: Marine Drive: Sherbrooke; Dartmouth; Halifax Sites: Sherbrooke; Barry Colpitts house; Halifax: Citadel, Historic Properties Dinner: Fid Resto, 1569 Dresden Row, at 19:30 The Halliburton Hotel: Room 204.

5184 Morris Street HALIFAX, NS 293 kms/ 183 miles

Friday 24

Breakfast: The Halliburton Hotel Route: Peggy’s Cove; Chester; Mahone Bay; Lunenburg Sites: Old Town Lunenburg (UNESCO Site): Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic Lunch: Magnolia’s Grill, 128 Montague Street, at 14:00 Dinner: Magnolia’s Grill, 128 Montague Street, at 19:30 The Mariner King Inn: Room 301, Candy Apple Addition (3 King Street), 15 King Street LUNENBURG, NS 163 kms/ 102 miles

Saturday 25

Breakfast: The Mariner King Inn Route: Liverpool; Bear River; Annapolis Royal; Grand Pre Sites: Liverpool: lighthouse; Bear River First Nation; Annapolis Royal: Fort Anne NHS, Port-Royal NHS (Habitation) Dinner: Tempest World Cuisine, 117 Front Street, at 18:30 Victoria’s Historic Inn: Webster Room: No. 25 (Inn building) 600 Main Street WOLFVILLE, NS 362 kms/ 226 miles

Sunday 26

Breakfast: Victoria’s Historic Inn Sites: Grand Pré NHS; Rawdon; Truro; Moncton, NB; Saint John; Calais, ME; Rte 1 Dinner: Poor Boy’s Gourmet Restaurant, 300 Main Street, at 19:00 Bar Harbor Grand Hotel: Room 218 269 Main Street BAR HARBOR, ME, USA 774 kms/ 484 miles

Total Driving in Canada: Monday 27

8,797 kms/5,498 miles

Breakfast: Bar Harbor Grand Hotel Sites: Bar Harbor; Acadia National Park; Searsport: Penobscot Marine Museum; Camden; Rockland: Farnsworth Art Museum; Bath; Freeport Lunch: Lobster Pound, Route 1, Lincolnville Beach, at 13:00 Dinner: Kerryman’s Pub, 512 Main Street, at 19:30 Hampton Inn: Room 210 48 Industrial Park Road SACO, ME 221 miles

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Tuesday 28

Breakfast: Hampton Inn Route: I 95: Portsmouth, Boston, New Bedford; Newport Sites: New Bedford: Whaling Museum, Seamen’s Bethel; Newport: Coggeshall Cemetery Dinner: White Horse Tavern, 26 Marlborough Street, at 19:30 Hillary Leonard 30 Golden Hill Road NEWPORT, RI 196 miles

Wednesday 29 Breakfast: Franklin Spa, 229 Spring Street Sites: Newport: The Breakers; Mohawk Trail; Williamstown: Clark Art Museum Dinner: Spice Root, 23 Spring Street, at 19:30 Maple Terrace Motel, Room 118 555 Main Street WILLIAMSTOWN, MA 200 miles Thursday 30

Breakfast: Hampton Inn Route: Troy, NY; New York State Thruway; East Aurora; Erie, PA; Cleveland, OH Lunch: McDonald’s (Schuyler Plaza, NY Thruway) at 13:00 Dinner: Bob Evans Restaurant, 29750 Detroit Road, at 19:45 Hampton Inn: Room 230 29690 Detroit Road WESTLAKE, OH 534 miles

OCTOBER Friday 1

82

Breakfast: Hampton Inn Route: I 90: Ohio, Indiana, Illinois CHICAGO, IL

323 miles

Total driving on trip:

6,805 miles

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Created by

Susan Hanes October 2010

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Cover: Near Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia Michelin 1907 map of the Maritimes

Volume 2