2010 India 4

A Return to India 4

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a six-week trip to India by way of London, Qatar, and Dublin, from January 7 to February 17, 2010. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2010.

A Return to India January 7 - February 17, 2010 Mother India is in many ways the mother of us all.

-- Will Durant

V. 4

Tuesday, February 9

Panjim

Ended up falling asleep at 6:00 and sleeping through dinner, not waking up until 6:00 this morning. The rest felt really good. A long driving day to Goa, the tiny state on the Konkan Coast that still shows evidence of its 400 years of Portuguese rule. Drove through Hubli, passing cotton fields as well as the harvested crop being transported by truck. Got on National Highway 4A, some of the worst road we’ve encountered in India. Passed sections that were being repaired by hand: women were sweeping at the dust while other women carried baskets of heavy rock on their heads. The men poured the rocks out on the ground and then the women went back to load more. Entered Goa by a winding descent on a narrow but newly surfaced road. Had some difficulty finding our way to Panjim but eventually checked into the Panjim People’s, a small hotel converted from a high school in the Fontainhas area, operated by the same manager as the Panjim Inn across the street. Our room is again spacious, quirky, and filled with antiques. Walked across the street for a drink on the balcony of the Inn; tried fenni, a local distillate made from coconut palm sap or from cashew “apples”. Tried one of each; the cashew

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was stronger, but there was no sense of the source in the taste of the rough liquor. Took a walk around the faded Portuguese residential quarter of Fontainhas near our hotel, with its jumble of crumbling, pastel-washed houses of blue, red, or ochre, most with white trim. At a tile shop, admired some small boxes but lost interest when we learned that they were made in Portugal rather than locally. There is a strange mix of Europe and India evident here. European boutiques line the street where women wearing saris walk by. A little shrine to Ganesha is around the corner from a small altar to St. Francis. The moldering buildings have dark stains that mar their pastel paint; many have ornate tile signs. The heavy bass of Western music permeates the humid evening air. Enjoyed spicy Goan pomfret and other Goan specialties and beer for less than $22 including tip at a coveted outside table at Viva Panjim, located down a narrow alley. The sign above advertised “Great Homely Food.” Walked back to our room, carefully negotiating the narrow street to avoid beeping motorcycles zipping by; the pounding beat of the music lulled us to sleep.

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Wednesday, February 10

Panjim

Classical Western music was playing as we ate a rather strange Indian breakfast across the street at the Inn. Shiju picked us up at 8:30 for our last day of driving with him.

Out to the Anjuna Wednesday Market, a weekly flea market, where the vendors bring in goods from all over India and the shoppers are almost exclusively western expats or European backpackers. The aura of the tuned-in and turned-on 60s still prevails; saw numerous tattooed, bearded, and bandana-ed ageing hippies stalking the stalls for bargains. The atmosphere was surprisingly cordial; vendors were hawking their wares, of course, but were not overly aggressive, and the give-and-take of haggling was more fun than pushy. The place was a feast for the senses: the bright colors of the bags and clothing for sale, the smells of incense and food, and the rhythmic beat of “Goan Trance” booming from the speakers in numerous CD stalls mixed with a babble of languages—French, English, Russian, Italian, German, and the local Marathi.

The tribal Lamani women from Karnataka were particularly fascinating, decked from head to toe in layers of the same bright fabrics they were selling. Did a little haggling ourselves, offering a quarter of the asking price and coming away with some reasonable deals on sarongs, silver jewelry, and a bag. Had Cokes in an open beachside restaurant while we watched a little girl perform for tips a

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balancing act on the sand. From there we drove to Old Goa; its Portuguese churches have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Used the DK Guide to follow a walk from the 17th century Viceroy’s Arch, through the palm-shaded complex of churches, monasteries, and cathedrals that were built in the 16th and 17th centuries, and ending with the magnificent Baroque Basilica de Bom Jesus where the remains of Goa’s patron saint, St. Francis Xavier, are housed. Returned to the hotel at 3:00; said good-by to Shiju and thanked him for safely driving us 3,311 kilometers. Promised to send him an email with the photo we took of him and one of us. He said he would send us a family picture. So now we really are winding down our five weeks in India; perhaps we can just relax for the next day and a half before we depart for Europe. Went down to the art gallery under our room and used the Internet for an hour. At 6:30, walked to the Horseshoe Ferradura, a restaurant featuring Goan-Portuguese cuisine. Ordered fish cooked with Goan spices and Sula, an Indian white wine. Good, but not nearly the value of the previous night. Talked about the highlights and disappointments of these weeks in India. Agreed that the Chola and Hoysala sites were the best. A bit dicey crossing the streets as we made our way back to the hotel.

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Church of St. Cajetan

Churches of Old Goa A Unesco Site 12

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Se Cathedral

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Chapel of St. Catherine

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Church of St. Francis

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Basilica of Bom Jesus

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Thursday, February 11

Panjim

Got started late this morning; by the time we went to breakfast at 8:30, they had produced a nice array of fruits and juices, masala omelets, and various Indian dishes. Further explored Panjim by foot, walking down to Church Square where the whitewashed 1541 Church of the Immaculate Conception stands high above; we carefully minded the broken sidewalks and the traďŹƒc.

Passed numerous shops selling cashews, liquor, and cheap handicra0s; dingy store windows showcased Western-style jeans and tee shirts. Really hot under the blazing sun; were ready for a drink and tried unsuccessfully to find Venite, a bar Jake had read about.

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Decided instead to return to the hotel and have cool drinks on the shady upstairs veranda. Lazy a0ernoon in the room, napping, journaling, and planning how to pack to avoid excess weight charges. At 5:30, a0er getting directions at the front desk, were able to locate Venite; shared a Kingfisher on a cramped balcony overlooking a phone store; we sat, fascinated by the maze of wires issuing from multiple sources in the wall below. Just before 7:00, returned to Viva Panjim for another delicious dinner at which we both ordered the pomfret.

Chose to have an early night; we’ve got a lot of traveling ahead of us.

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Friday, February 12

Delhi

Took our time this morning, organizing five weeks worth of acquisitions and dirty clothes and trying to spread weight equally in our bags.

At noon, took an air-conditioned taxi to the Goa airport, a 45-minute drive on good roads, with excellent signage and a minimum of roadside litter. When our bags were screened, had to open both, as the X-ray showed “dense materials.” I guess our bronze statues and bowls are bound to raise some questions. Personal security, on the other hand, was a breeze; didn’t have to show my computer or open our carry-on luggage. As we sat in the departure lounge, Jake commented that we had overcome our first baggage weight hurdle. Our IndiGo flight arrived in Delhi a few minutes before 5:30. Collected our bags and were met outside the terminal by a driver sent by Veenu and Rakesh Chopra to bring us to their south Delhi home for dinner before our 4:30 AM Qatar Airlines flight to Doha. Enjoyed catching up with them over drinks and pistachios and crunchy Indian noodle snacks. They refrained from joining us for a cocktail as today is Mahashivrati, the Night of Lord Shiva, and they

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were abstaining from meat and alcohol. Late dinner including several North and South Indian vegetarian dishes and chicken in gravy for us.

Their 23-year-old son, Pranav, joined us later; Veenu told us that his name means “Om.”

Saturday, February 13

Doha / Bray-on-Thames

At midnight, Rakesh drove us to the Indira Gandhi Airport; traffic was heavy around the departure area even at that time of night, but that was just a precursor of what was to come inside. The terminal was absolutely humming with activity and there were not enough check-in stations, so that some airlines had to share them. Since we were early, the Qatar Airlines station had not yet opened. We waited for 40 minutes before discovering that a long line had already formed for their station in another location. Moved to that line, but people just pushed in front of us or cut in from the sides.

Next step was going through emigration: a great lesson in bureaucratic inefficiency: a huge scrum of people, all pushing and cutting ahead, no semblance of lines or order and apparently nothing happening at the few stations that were open. Labels such as “Diplomatic” and “Special Needs” apparently meant nothing; only a mass of people waiting for more than an hour for someone to collect a departure form from each of us. When we finally went through, we had been at the airport nearly three hours, being shoved around in various mobs of people. This is the India I will not miss. At 5:10 AM, our Qatar flight took off for Doha. The flight was full and our seats were lousy but I fell asleep before the plane took off and did not wake until just before we landed, four hours later. Stood in another long line to get a Qatar visa; this was accomplished a0er a 40-minute wait and a charge of about $30 each. At 10:00, employed a driver from Doha Limousine to give us an hour-long tour. We whizzed along the wide roads in a new Jaguar, along the Corniche, skirting the Arabian Sea. Stopped to see fishermen displaying varieties of fish and squid; it all looked wonderfully fresh. Passed the Museum of Islamic

Art, and scores of new and partially completed buildings representing every imaginable school of architecture; we thought some worked and some definitely did not.

Everything was new and sparkling, but somehow seemed sterile and soulless. Must admit that the cleanliness and the right-hand drive was a welcome relief from India, but we saw practically no one out on the roads. Returned to the airport in time to re-enter security and scan our bags yet again and then we were on a Qatar flight to Heathrow at 12:30. Again, I slept most of the nearly 7-hour flight. Landed at Heathrow at 5:00 local time. Although the usual lines in immigration were even longer due to recent threats, it was a pleasure to be able to keep one’s place and not be pushed aside by people cutting ahead. Got our bags and found a black London taxi to take us to Bray-on-Thames (at a mandated fare of $145), where we had reservations for dinner and a room at the Waterside Inn, the Roux brothers’ 3-starred Michelin restaurant and a Relais et Chateau. This Relais well deserved its designation, unlike Malabar House in Fort Cochin. Showered and changed clothes before going down for dinner. The Menu Exceptionale, a multi-course tasting menu featuring sole and duck and seasonal vegetables, was especially appreciated a0er all those weeks of Indian buffets. The dining room was cozy and festive; the tables were set with attractive yellow and salmon china with a Chinese motif. We enjoyed the meal and all the extras—crunchy little appetizers, lime sorbet with vodka, and small chocolate treats, as well as excellent cheeses. Chef Michel Roux paid a visit to our table and gracefully accepted our praise. Upstairs to our comfortable room by 10:00.

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Doha, Qatar

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Sunday, February 14

Dublin

Valentine’s Day It was hard to get up from our comfy bed at 5:00AM and especially to forego the included breakfast, as we had arranged for a taxi to return us to Heathrow at 6:10, well before the kitchen was open again. Yoghurt, shortbread and fresh juice were laid out for us, which was very nice in any event. Bumped our suitcases down the stairs of the Inn and went out in the dark to wait. A few minutes a0er 6:15, saw headlights coming toward us; no one else would be out and about at that hour in the tiny town of Bray; it was indeed our ride. Got to Terminal 1 in plenty of time to go through security and walk to Gate 77, at the end of the line. The BMI flight to Dublin was just under an hour; arrived to a grey, chilly morning, but at least the rain was over. A half-hour ride into town to The Merrion, a grand hotel composed of four restored 18th century townhouses in the heart of Georgian Dublin. As our room was not yet available, had tea and scones in one of the graceful drawing rooms before setting out to do a little exploring. Walked down to the Dublin Castle area and visited the Chester Beatty Library when it opened at 1:00. An art museum as well as a library, its major focus is on manuscripts, miniature prints, and drawings from countries across Asia and the

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Middle East, particularly those dealing with culture and religion. Were particularly interested in the collection of Hindu, Buddhist, Jain, and Islamic manuscripts and calligraphy, as it gave us a chance to see art from so many of the areas we have just visited. It was satisfying to see these things, knowing their context from fresh experience. Walked back along Gra0on Street, now a pedestrian thoroughfare, filled with young people and shops that would appeal to them. Passed a number of street musicians playing guitars and singing with varying degrees of talent. Returned to the hotel and were shown to a spacious room; just then, my phone rang: it was Klaus. He and Dagmar had arrived in Dublin and were calling from their hotel a couple of blocks down the street. Leaving Jake, I went down to meet them. A special treat that they could come to Dublin to see us. The three of us walked up to meet Jake at Foley’s Bar across from The Merrion for a Guinness; we all retired three flights upstairs over the bar for dinner that made up for quality with very generous portions. By this time we were feeling pretty jet lagged so made it an early night so we could catch up on our sleep.

Dublin Castle

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In Dublin's Fair City Where the girls are so pretty I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone As she wheel'd her wheel barrow Through streets broad and narrow Crying cockles and mussels alive, alive o!

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Monday, February 15

Dublin

Decided against the extensive hotel breakfast; instead had a full Irish breakfast at Rhubarb Café around the corner from The Merrion. Met the Starks at 9:30 for a visit to the National Gallery of Ireland, located between our two hotels. Disappointed that the Gallery’s key holding, Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ, had been removed for conservation; spent an hour and a half maneuvering through the convoluted floor plan to see the rest of the collection, including an intriguing take on the Supper at Emmaus by Velazquez and Goya’s Dona Antonia Zarate, who I thought bore a remarkable resemblance to Jake’s daughter, Hillary. Got on the Dublin “on and off again” double-decker red tour bus to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, dating from the 13th century; a church has stood on the spot since the 5th century. It is an attractive cathedral and shares a long history with the city. Jonathan Swi0 was Dean from 1713-1745 and is buried beneath the floor; his death masks are preserved in a cabinet in the nave. I found several Green Men tucked within the carvings of the pulpit, too. Hopped back on the bus to the Kilmainham Gaol, built in 1786 and rich with Irish history. Joined a

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large group for a 90-minute tour of the facility. Back on the bus to Trinity College. Walked through a cold rain to see the Long Hall of the Old Library and the treasury where several medieval gospel manuscripts are displayed, principally the Book of Kells. Although the book is only open to one page, an exhibit explaining how it came to be created was beautifully done; the experience was quite special. Dagmar and Klaus opted to return to their hotel to shower and warm up while Jake and I walked to Temple Bar with its cobblestone streets and countless pubs.

Ducked into the Auld Dublin and, a0er finding two stools next to a radiator, settled in for the a0ernoon with a couple of pints. Enjoyed the festive Irish music of Thomas Walsh and David Yeates with others who crowded the bar.

At 7:00, crossed Dublin’s River Liffey by footbridge and met Dagmar and Klaus for dinner at The Winding Stair, a cozy restaurant over a used bookshop and a Michelin Bib. Nice table by the window; salmon and a big salad tasted great a0er five weeks of foregoing lettuce. Shared a taxi back to our hotels; a soaking bath before bed was a treat.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

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Kilmainham Gaol

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My hand is weary with writing My sharp quill is not steady My slender beaked pen juts forth A black draught of shining dark blue ink.

My little dripping pen travels Across the plain of shining books Without ceasing for the wealth of the great Whence my hand is weary from writing.

-11th C poem to honor St. Colum Cille (c 521-597) displayed at Trinity College

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Tuesday, February 16

Dublin

A huge breakfast in the hotel’s Cellar Restaurant; Jake’s omelet must have had five eggs. Crisp air and clear skies as I walked down the street to have coffee and catch-up with Dagmar. Sat in a sunny window of her hotel lobby and shared news of our families. I told her a bit about our trip; she was duly impressed by my stamina. Met the men at noon and we walked to Trinity College and around the Temple Bar area, crossing the Liffey and continuing down O’Connell Street. Jake and I took at look at the historic General Post Office, built in 1814 and destroyed in the Easter Rising in April 1916, while the Starks shopped for shoes at Clarkes. Stopped for Guinness and Bulmer’s cider at the Palace Bar, established in 1823 and full of charm. An American ex-pat sporting a jaunty little golf hat offered to take our picture and engaged Jake in a friendly conversation about the St. Louis Cardinals. Dagmar commented again that Dublin is so much livelier than she expected, and thanked us for asking them to join us here.

Continued down the pedestrian Gra0on Street, passing

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several groups of street musicians enticing passers-by to stop and listen. Wondered if perhaps Bono and U2 got their start in much the same way. A man was creating giant soap bubbles, much to the delight of a couple of small children. Another pint at O’Donoghue’s, just around the corner from our hotel, before we went back for a break before dinner. At 7:00, Charles McGregor’s son, Angus, met us in the lobby and organized taxis to take us to the village of Ranelagh for drinks at Smythe Pub. Angus, a second-year student in economics and philosophy at Trinity, lives in Ranelagh with a couple of friends and wanted to show us a more laid-back, less touristy area of Dublin. Choosing not to wait for a table at the Ranelagh restaurant where Angus had hoped we would dine, we went back into town for dinner at Peploe’s, a crowded restaurant simply bursting with good cheer. Just a short walk back to our hotel from there, where we said good-by to Dagmar and Klaus, as tomorrow we are heading home at last.

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Wednesday, February 17

Chicago

In spite of the long day ahead, got up at 6:00 to organize, pack, write a couple of postcards, and journal. Returned to the Rhubarb Café for breakfast; watched people scurrying about in a surprise rain; seems that carrying an umbrella is a necessity in Dublin, as even the brightest morning doesn’t preclude the chance of a stray shower later. Checked out of The Merrion at 10:00 and taxied to the airport. Our chatty driver proudly pointed out the stunning new airport terminal under construction. When it was commissioned, Dublin was receiving 22 million air passengers a year, but unfortunately, a0er the worldwide economic slowdown, that number has dropped to just 11 million. Glad we arrived early so that we had plenty of time to fill out our US Customs declaration, which is processed at the Dublin airport rather than O’Hare. Nice when we get home not to have to go through customs a0er a long flight. Le0 on Aer Lingus 123 to Chicago at 12:50; the sevenhour flight seemed short a0er the many hours we’ve spent in the air. Arrived home to winter, but at least summer is six weeks closer than when we le0.

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If we are to teach real peace in this world, and if we are to carry on a real war against war, we shall have to begin with the children.

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Delhi

Early Views of India Aquatints by Thomas and William Daniell 1786-1794

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Elephanta 69

Elora 70

Elora

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Benares

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Madurai 73

Mahabalipuram

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Mahabalipuram 75

Tanjore

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Tanjore

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India 2010 Route Map

Red: Land Blue: Air 78

South India Detail

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Itinerary JANUARY Thursday

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Depart CHICAGO, ORD, on Aer Lingus Flight EI 124 (Airbus 330) at 19:10; Seats 12 A and C; IN FLIGHT

Friday

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Arrive DUBLIN, DUB, at 08:50 (25 minutes late) Depart Dublin Airport, DUB, on BMI Flight 124 (Airbus 319) at 11:30 Arrive London Heathrow, LHR (Terminal 1), LONDON, at 12:55 London: V&A: Maharaja: the Splendour of India's Royal Courts Ballet: Les Patineurs and Tales of Beatrix Potter; Royal Opera House, at 19:30, Seats W16 and N31 Dinner: Tutton’s Brasserie The Cadogan Hotel, 75 Sloane Square: Room 312 LONDON

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Breakfast: Café Oriel Tate Britain: Turner and the Masters; Kensington Antiques Show; British Museum: Moctezuma: Aztec Ruler; Revolution on Paper: Mexican Prints, 1910-1960 Dinner: Amaya, with Vicky and Michael Palau, Charles McGregor The Cadogan Hotel: LONDON

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British Library: Points of View: Capturing the 19th Century in Photographs; National Gallery, The Sacred Made Real: Spanish Painting and Sculpture, 1600-1700 Lunch: British Library Café Drinks: The Salisbury Dinner: Zafferano, with Faith and Bill Clarke The Cadogan Hotel: LONDON

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Monday

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Barclays Bank; Sam Fogg Dinner: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon WarHorse: New London Theatre, Seats F-15 NL and F-16 NL The Cadogan Hotel: LONDON

Tuesday

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Breakfast: EAT in Terminal 3 Depart Heathrow, LHR, Terminal 3, on Qatar Airways Flight 18 (Airbus 330) at 07:55; Seats 20 J and K Arrive DOHA, DOH, Qatar, at 17:35 Depart Doha, DOH, on Qatar Airways Flight 232 (Airbus 330) at 21:45; Seats 19 D and E IN FLIGHT

Wednesday

13Arrive Indira Gandhi International Airport, DEL, Terminal 2, New Delhi, at 03:30 (15 minutes early) Meet Kishor Kumar of CIE World Transfer to New Delhi Railway Station, NDLS, by Toyota Innova (Ram Singh) Depart Shatabi Express 2017, at 06:50; Coach E2; Seats 0031 and 0032 Breakfast en route Arrive Haridwar, HW, 11:25 Haridwar: Har-ki-Pairi ghat; Bara Bazaar Dinner: Haveli Hari Ganga Haveli Hari Ganga, Pilibhit House, 21 Ramghat HARIDWAR

Thursday

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Kumbh Mela: Makar Sankranti Snan - First bath Breakfast: Haveli Hari Ganga Guide (Anjeet Kumar): Juna Akhar; Maya Devi Temple; Gau Ghat; Har-ki-Pairi ghat; Aarti ceremony; Bara Bazaar Dinner: Haveli Hari Ganga Haveli Hari Ganga HARIDWAR

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Friday

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Kumbh Mela: Mauni Amavasya and Surya Grahan Second bath (31% solar eclipse at 08:16): bad fog Breakfast: Haveli Hari Ganga Har-ki-Pairi ghat; Bara Bazaar; Aarti ceremony Dinner: Haveli Hari Ganga Haveli Hari Ganga HARIDWAR

Saturday

16 Toyota Innova (Ram Singh) depart Haridwar for Delhi at 02:00: bad fog Arrive at Indira Gandhi International Airport, DEL, Delhi, at 09:40 Depart DEL (Terminal1D) at 11:25 (45 minutes late) on Jet Airways Flight 9W 723 (Boeing 737); Seats 14 A and B Arrive Varanasi, VNS, at 12:25 (35 minutes late) Transfer by Toyata Innova (Javed) Varanasi: Assi Ghat to Raj Ghat; Manikarnika and Dasashvamedh Ghats; Vishwananth Temple Evening (17:45) Ganges river trip with Peter and Jane Drury Dinner: Hotel Ganges View with Peter and Jane Drury Hotel Ganges View, B1/163 Assi Ghat: Room 118 VARANASI

Sunday

203 kms/125 miles

17 Breakfast: Hotel Ganges View Varanasi: Morning (05:30) Ganges river trip (Guide: Ramis), Manikarnika Ghat Toyota Innova (Javed): drive to Sarnath Sarnath: Dhamekh and Chaukhandi stupas; Archeological Museum, Tibetian Buddhist Temple; Ashoka Pillar; Tiwari Silk Weaving Centre Dinner: Hotel Ganges View Hotel Ganges View VARANASI

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Monday

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Toyota Innova (Javed) depart Varanasi for Bodh Gaya at 05:30 Arrive Bodh Gaya at 11:00 Bodh Gaya: (UNESCO) Mahakala and Mahabodhi Temples; Bodh tree; monasteries; Great Statue of Buddha Arrive Patna at 17:30 Jet Lite Airways Flight 7118 scheduled to depart at 19:05: reservations cancelled Depart Patna, PAT, on IndiGo Airways Flight 6E342 (Airbus 320) at 18:20; Seats 3 A and B Arrive Kolkata Airport (Domestic Terminal), CCU, Kolkata, at 19:10 Transfer by hotel Oberoi arcade bookstore and jewelry shops Dinner: The Oberoi Grand room service The Oberoi Grand, 15, Jawaharlal Nehru Road KOLKATA

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Breakfast: La Terrasse: Oberoi Grand Memorial preparations for Jyoti Basu Kolkata: Bengal Silver Arts; Indian Museum; Victoria Memorial and museum: Indian Life and Landscape By Western Artists; Maidan Dinner: Chowringhee Bar and Ban Thai (The Oberoi Grand): Susan The Oberoi Grand KOLKATA

Wednesday

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Sarasvati Puja Holiday; Memorial arrangements for Jyoti Basu Breakfast: La Terrasse: Oberoi Grand Blue Arrow Taxi (Amir): Maidan; Barabazaar and Chitpur Road; Black Town mansions; Marble Palace; Kumartuli potter’s colony; Mullik Ghat flower market; Howrah Bridge and Railway Station; Babu Ghat; Botanical Gardens; BBD Bagh (Dalhousie Square): St. John’s Church, Writers’ Building, General Post Office; South Park Street Cemetery; Kalighat Temple Dinner: The Oberoi Grand: pool The Oberoi Grand KOLKATA 83

Thursday

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Transfer to airport by hotel at 05:00 Depart Kolkata Airport, CCU, on Jet Lite Flight 7063 (Canadair 200) at 07:05; Seats 9 A and C Arrive Bhubaneswar, BBI, at 08:05 Transfer to hotel by Avis Avis Ford Fiesta TDC (Ashok): Vaital Mandir, Parasuramesvara, Mukteswar, Rajarani, Brahmesvara and Lingaraj Temples; Vaital Deul; Orissa State Museum Dinner: Trident Bhubaneswar Trident Bhubaneswar, CB-1, Nayapalli: Room 252 BHUBANESWAR

Friday

22 Breakfast: Trident Bhubaneswar Avis Ford Fiesta TDC (Ashok): depart Bhubaneswar at 08:30 Raghurajpur: patta chitra paintings, chitra pothi palm leaf engravings Puri: Raghunandan Library to view Jagannath Temple; Puri Beach; South Eastern Railway Hotel Konark: (UNESCO) Sun Temple (Guide: Upendra Nayak) Pipli: applique Dinner: Trident Bhubaneswar Trident Bhubaneswar BHUBANESWAR

Saturday

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23 Breakfast: Trident Bhubaneswar Transfer to airport by Avis (Ashok) at 06:45 Jet Lite Airways Flight 7064 scheduled to depart for Kolkata at 19:05: reservations cancelled Jet Airways Konnect Flight 9W245; scheduled to depart Kolkata for Chennai at 19:05: reservations cancelled Depart Bhubaneswar, BBI, on Air India Flight IC 541 (Airbus 320) at 14:20; Seats 12 A and B Arrive Chennai Airport, MAA, Chennai, at 16:20 (30 minutes late) Transfer (Honda City) to hotel by hotel Chennai: Giggles Bookstore Dinner: Hip Asia (Taj Connemara) Taj Connemara: 2 Binny Road, Egmore CHENNAI

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Sunday

24Breakfast: Veranda (Taj Connemara) CIE World car (Toyota Innova: KL07 B G 0045: Shiju Jose) depart 08:30 Chennai: St. Mary’s Church; Fort St. George; Madras University Kanchipuram: Ekambareshvara, Kamakshi and Kailasanathar Temples; Sri Suryan Silks Mahabalipuram: (UNESCO) Five Rathas; Shore Temple; Ajunas Penance Dinner: Seagull (Taj Fisherman’s Cove) Taj Fisherman’s Cove, Covelong Beach: room 103 MAHABALIPURAM

Monday

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25 Breakfast: Taj Fisherman’s Cove Gingee: Gingee Fort Pondicherry: Government Square; Raj Nivas; along Goubert Salai Dinner: Le Dupleix Le Dupleix. 5 rue de Caserne PONDICHERRY

Tuesday

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26 Republic Day Breakfast: Le Dupleix Chidambaram: Nataraja Sabhanayaka Temple complex Gangaikondacholapuram: (UNESCO) Brihadishvara Temple Kumbakonam: Mahamaham Tank; Nageshwara Temple Darasuram: (UNESCO) Airavateshvara Temple Swamimalai: Rajan Icons bronzes Dinner: Anandham Swamimalai Anandham Swamimalai, Agrakaram, Thimmakudy Village: Royal Suite SWAMIMALAI

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Wednesday

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Breakfast: Anandham Swamimalai Swamimalai: Temple and wedding; Sri Rajan Industries bronzes (Suresh Kumar) Thanjavur: (UNESCO) Brihadishwara Temple; Saraswati Mahal Library; Raja Serfoji Museum; Nayaka Palace and Durbar Hall; Thanjavur Art Gallery Dinner: Anandham Swamimalai Anandham Swamimalai SWAMIMALAI

Thursday

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Breakfast: Anandham Swamimalai Tiruchirapalli: Rock Fort Temple Srirangam: Ranganatha Swami Temple complex Madurai: Meenakshi-Sundareshvara Temple complex Dinner: The View (Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai) Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai, Murikaddy: Room 47 MADURAI

Friday

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29 Breakfast: The View (Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai) Madurai: Meenakshi-Sundareshwar Temple complex Dinner: The View (Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai) The Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai MADURAI

Saturday

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30Breakfast: The View (Gateway Hotel Pasumalai Madurai) Thekkady: Connemara Tea Plantation tour; Eden Spice Garden tour, Kumily: Kalaripayattu exhibition Dinner: Shalimar Spice Garden Shalimar Spice Garden, P.O. Kumily, Distt. Idukki THEKKADY

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Sunday

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Periyar: Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary lake tour on Jalaraja at 06:30 Kumarakom: kettuvallam houseboat: cruise Vembanad Lake: Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, Alleppey Lunch: Kumarakom Lake Resort Dinner: on Kumarakom Lake Resort kettuvallam houseboat Kumarakom Lake Resort Kettuvallam houseboat: two bedrooms, crew of 3 Kumarakom North Post KUMARAKOM

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FEBRUARY Monday

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Breakfast: on Kumarakom Lake Resort kettuvallam houseboat Kottayam: Valliapalli and Cheriapalli Syrian Christian churches Ettamanur: Mahadiva Temple Fort Cochin: Jew Town; Cra0ers; Dutch Palace; Synagogue; Chinese fishing nets; Dutch Cemetery Dinner: Malabar Junction (Malabar House) Malabar House, 1/269 Parade Road: Room 3 FORT COCHIN

Tuesday

2

89/56

Breakfast: Malabar Junction (Malabar House) Fort Cochin: St Francis Church; Chinese fishing nets; Santa Cruz Basilica Lunch: Kochi CafĂŠ and Art Gallery with Steve and Chris Mayer Kerala Kathakali Centre: dance performance Dinner: History Terrace (Brunton Boatyard) Malabar House FORT COCHIN

87

Wednesday

3

Breakfast: Malabar Junction (Malabar House) Nilgiri Blue Mountains: Coonoor: Sim’s Park; Nilgiri Mountain Railway station and train (UNESCO) Ooty: Botanical Gardens; Ooty Lake Dinner: Curry and Rice (Fernhills Palace Hotel) Fernhills Palace Hotel, Fernhills: Princess Jayalakshmi Suite OOTY

Thursday

4

355/222

Breakfast: Curry and Rice (Fernhills Palace Hotel) Nilgiri Blue Mountains: Mudumalai Tiger Reserve; Bandipur National Park Somnathpur: Keshava Temple Mysore: Maharaja’s Palace Dinner: Cue Bar, Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel Restaurant Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel, T. Narsipur Rd.: Room 22 MYSORE

Friday

5

223/139

Breakfast: Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel Restaurant Srirangapatnam: fort; Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon; Tipu Sultan’s Death Place; Obelisk; Lal Mahal; Daria Daulat Bagh; Gumbaz mausoleum Sravana Belagola: Gommateshvara statue and temples Halebid: Hoyesalesvara and Kdearsvara Temples Belur: Chennakeshava and Veeranarayana Temples Dinner: The Peaberry (Gateway Hotel KM Road) Gateway Hotel, KM Road: Room 112 CHIKMAGALUR

Saturday

6

271/169

Breakfast: The Peaberry (Gateway Hotel KM Road) Hampi: Vijayanagara: (UNESCO) Virupaksha Temple; Bazaar; Tungabhadra River Dinner: Hampi’s Boulders Resort Hampi’s Boulders Resort: Stars Cottage Narayanpet, Bandi Harlapur HAMPI

88

376/235

Sunday

7

Breakfast: Hampi’s Boulders Resort Guide (Bhanu):Vijayanagara: Tungabhadra river crossings, elephant bathing, Sacred Center: Virupaksha Temple, Hemakuta hill temples, KrishnaTemple complex; Sasivekalu and Kadalekalu Ganeshas, Royal Center: Lotus Mahal; Elephant stables, Hazara Rama Temple; rush coracle boat ride; Vitthala Temple Dinner: Hampi’s Boulders Resort Hampi’s Boulders Resort HAMPI

Monday

8

106/66

Breakfast: Hampi’s Boulders Resort Aihole: Durgigudi, Lad Khan and Ravanaphadigudi Temples Pattadakal: (UNESCO) Virupaksha, Mallikarjuna and Jain Temples Badami: Chalukya cave temples Hotel Badami Court, Station Road BADAMI

Tuesday

9

163/102

Breakfast: Pulikeshi Restaurant (Hotel Badami Court) Panjim: tour Fontainhas area Dinner: Viva Panjim Panjim Peoples, E-212, 31 January Road, Fontainhas, Panaji: Room B PANJIM, GOA

Wednesday

10

321/201

Breakfast: Panjim Inn Anjuna: Wednesday Market Old Goa: (UNESCO) Viceroy’s Arch, Church of St. Cajetan, Se Cathedral, Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Archaeological Museum, Basilica de Bom Jesus Panjim: flower market; Shiju and Toyota Innova return to Kerala Dinner: Ferrudara Horseshoe Panjim Peoples PANJIM, GOA

67/42

Auto distance with Shiju: 3,311 kilometers/2,069 miles 89

Thursday

11

Breakfast: Panjim Inn Panjim: Church Square, Church of Immaculate Conception, Secretariat, Fontainhas area Drinks: Venite Bar; Dinner: Viva Panjim Panjim Peoples PANJIM, GOA Auto distance with Shiju: 3,311 kilometers/2,069 miles Total auto distance in India: 4,118 kilometers/2,574 miles

Friday

12

Mahashivrati (Night of Lord Shiva) Breakfast: Panjim Inn Depart Goa, GOI, on IndiGo Airways Flight 6E 330 (Airbus 320) at 15:05, Seats 19 E and F Arrive Delhi, DEL, Terminal 1 C at 17:20 (15 minutes early) Dinner: south Delhi home of Drs. Veenu and Rakesh Chopra AIRPORT TERMINAL

Saturday

13

Depart: Delhi, DEL, International Terminal: Qatar Airways Flight 233 (Airbus 330); at 05:05 (20 minutes late); Seats 21 F and G Arrive DOHA, DOH, at 06:50 (5 minutes late) Doha: limousine tour of Corniche and Doha center Depart: Doha, DOH, Qatar Airways Flight 1 (A340) at 13:00 (20 minutes late): Seats 31A and B Arrive: LONDON, LHR, (Terminal 3) at 17:20 (10 minutes early) Dinner: The Waterside Inn The Waterside Inn: Le Nid Jaune Ferry Road BRAY-ON-THAMES

90

Sunday

14

Valentine’s Day Breakfast: The Merrion Depart: London Heathrow, LHR, Terminal 1: BMI Flight 123 (Airbus 320) at 08:50; Seats 15 B and C Arrive DUBLIN, DUB, at 10:10 Dublin: Dublin Castle; Chester Beatty Library; Gra0on Street Drinks: Foley’s Bar Dinner: Queen Maebh’s, with Klaus and Dagmar Stark The Merrion Hotel, 21-24 Upper Merrion Street DUBLIN

Monday

15

Breakfast: Rhubarb Cafe National Gallery of Ireland; Tourist Bus Tour: St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Kilmainham Gaol; Trinity College; Old Library, Long Hall and Book of Kells; Temple Bar Drinks: Auld Dubliner Dinner: Winding Stair, with Starks The Merrion Hotel DUBLIN

Tuesday

16

Breakfast: The Cellar (The Merrion) Temple Bar; O’Connell Street; General Post Office; Gra0on Street Drinks: Palace Bar; O’Donoghue’s; Smythe Pub (Ranelagh) Dinner: Peploe’s, with Angus McGregor and Starks The Merrion Hotel DUBLIN

Wednesday

17Breakfast: Rhubarb Cafe Depart: Dublin, DUB, Aer Lingus Flight EI 125 (Airbus 330) at 12:50; Seats 12 A and C Arrive: CHICAGO, ORD, at 14:50 (30 minutes early)

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a six-week trip to India by way of London, Qatar, and Dublin, from January 7 to February 17, 2010. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2010. v.4

V. 4