2009 India 3

Incredible India 3

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a five-week journey in northwestern India from January 5 to February 7, 2009. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2009.

Incredible India January 5-February 7, 2009 There are some parts of the world that, once visited, get into your heart and won't go ...

India is such a place

V. 3

Tuesday, January 27

Mt. Abu

Deliciously decadent to sleep in the cool silence of our palace

pillars. As we were leaving, I bought a temple medal depicting

room and not have to get up until 8:30. Peaceful, leisurely

Ganesh, with Om on the back, and Sanskrit writing that I later

breakfast overlooking the village of Mt. Abu while Jake slept

learned was a child’s morning prayer. Decided not to stay

in. Just before noon a jeep taxi took us down the hill to the

down in the village, returning by taxi to spend a quiet

Jain temples at Dilwara. No shoes, no leather, no cameras, no

a,ernoon in our roo,op hideaway, enjoying the view and a

cell phones, not even water allowed, so we entered

chance to relax.

unencumbered by the usual accoutrements. Just as well, for we had no distractions as we walked through the five temples built between the 11th and 15th centuries. Although there were lots of people there (few Westerners, however) we managed our timing and avoided the crowds so that we could enjoy the serenity and quiet that invited contemplation.

Dilwara is an extraordinary place. Most impressive was the 11th c. Vimal Vasahi temple. Over 2500 artisans, using abrasive strings or small files, created a profusion of delicate lace-like carvings in pure white marble. Hundreds of tirthankara, those “victorious ones” who by their ankara (absence of violence), chastity, truth, and poverty had broken the cycle of samsara (reincarnation), were placed in niches around the central shrine of Adinatha (the first tirthankara) as examples of perfection. Between the niches, beautiful human forms were sculpted, of such translucence, grace, and beauty, as I have never seen before. Around these shapes, every surface, however tiny, was carved in ornate geometric or floral motifs: on ceilings, domes, archways, walls, and

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Mt. Abu

Dilwara Jain Temple

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Wednesday, January 28

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Rankapur/Kumbhalgarh/Udaipur

Sunrise over the hills from our balcony. On the road towards

temples and the surrounding countryside. From there it was

Rankapur by 8:00 with Manoj, our driver from Travel Made

90 km. to Udaipur. The road was only a one-lane strip but it

Easy and a comfortable and immaculate Toyota Innova. Four

wound through the most interesting countryside we have

hours later, we arrived at the largest Jain Temple in India,

seen: hills and dry stream beds, tiny villages and small squares

completed in 1439. It contains more than 1400 heavily carved

of green cultivated land growing sugarcane, cattle forage, and

pillars, all of them unique. Unlike at Dilwara, we were allowed

a wheat-like grain. All along the way were men in large

to take pictures, as long as we did not try to photograph the

colorful turbans and women in bright saris. Around every

main sanctuary or (as Jake learned) any of the statues

bend we found a feast for the eyes. Just outside Udaipur, we

depicting tirthankara. While he was shooting away, a guard

came to a giant road construction site. Recent blasting had

blew his whistle at him and made him delete all that he had

opened a huge hole through which massive construction

taken of the forbidden subjects. Although the temple was

equipment and every size of vehicle were trying to get

impressive, the delicate beauty of Dilwara had spoiled us.

through at the same time. In true Indian style, the giant tie-

Besides, there were a large number of Western tourists there,

up was quickly dissipated by everyone going whichever way

which had a negative eect on our sense of the place. Drove

they wanted with no attempt at order; soon we were on our

through secluded woodlands on a narrow road to

way again. Manoj took us to several shops as we headed into

Kumbhalgarh Fort. Second in size only to the Great Wall of

town but we saw nothing really special compared to the

China, its walls stretch over the foothills of a wildlife

amazing shopping opportunities in Ahmedabad. Down

sanctuary for 36 km. A fort was first built on this spot in the

through narrow lanes to the Jagat Niwas Palace, a haveli on

3rd c. but over time it was enlarged, and by the 15th c. the

Lake Pichola. Our room is large, with a lakeside view and

walls encompassed 300 temples and palaces. Climbed to the

interesting antique furniture. Late dinner on the terrace,

very top of the fort for a commanding view of the remaining

overlooking the Lake Palace.

Shri Rankapur

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Kumbhalgarh Fort

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Udaipur

Our Room at Jagat Niwas Palace

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Thursday, January 29

Udaipur

Pigeons scrambling for positions on the window ledges

life and royal pastimes. Shopped at Anokhi and Aashka,

gently woke us from a great sleep on a hard mattress, flat

lovely boutiques where I found an interesting sliver

pillow, and feather-light comforter that I wish I could

necklace and great bargains on several pieces of clothing.

replicate at home. Jake thought I was kidding; I wasn’t.

Walked to the lakeside and stopped for a beer on the Sunset

Breakfast upstairs on the terrace—a little chilly. Interesting

Terrace of the Fateh Prakash Palace. Looked at some

contrasts in our views of the lake: in one direction, the Lake

miniature paintings at a nearby shop but decided not to buy

Palace Hotel rising elegantly out of its own reflection; in the

anything. Returning to the hotel, fortuitously stopped in at

other, sludge, garbage, and grounded old boats stuck in the

the travel center next door to arrange for airport pickup,

mess. The monsoon will soon remedy this. Walked through

only to learn that our flight to Jaisalmer had been cancelled,

the old town to the City Palace Museum where we made

as well as flights to Jodhpur and to Jaipur. A scramble, but

our way up and down the steps and through the

managed to arrange for Manoj to drive us to both Jaisalmer

passageways of Rajasthan’s largest palace, a mish-mash of

and Jodhpur. Fortunately I had asked for his card before he

Rajput and Mughal styles with a kind of Baroque

departed so it was no problem to arrange for his services. I

inspiration. Enjoyed looking at the extensive collection of

was not too happy about the alternative of 11 hours in a

uniquely styled Mewari miniature paintings depicting court

taxi.

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City Palace Museum

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Friday, January 30

Jaisalmer

Manoj met us outside the Jiwas promptly at 8:00 AM.

Pokaran, near the site of India’s nuclear tests in 1974 and

Retraced the route to Rankapur, again following the

1998. The setting sun became brutal, resulting in a blinding

narrow road through the Mewari countryside. I

drive for the last 25 km. of our 600-km. journey, but at

commented that the drive was so interesting and Manoj

6:30 we finally arrived in Jaisalmer. Manoj turned us over

said that Rajasthan is best explored by car and it was lucky

to a tuc-tuc at the lower gate of the fort, as no cars are

for us that our flights had been cancelled. That made me

allowed within the ramparts. Suitcases and bags were

feel a bit better about the long drives we had ahead of us.

stuffed in with us and the little motor putted us up the

Joined National Highway 14, partially a blast site and

steep cobblestone lane and deposited us at the steps of

partially a 4-lane divided highway, depending on whether

Garh Jaisal, located in an old haveli right in the fort itself. It

the contractor had completed his portion of the road.

is an intriguing little hotel, not exactly luxurious but with

Interesting to drive along this beautiful new road and still

golden sandstone walls and a nice view of the town below.

find cattle ambling across and camels and ox carts sharing

Raj, our congenial host, welcomed us and later walked us

lanes with speeding trucks. The drive into Jodhpur got kind

back down to the gate, thus shielding us (for this trip

of tense; lots of traffic, tons of trucks, and very narrow

anyway) from the enthusiastic vendors anxious to share

pavement with no shoulders. At last we passed the

their shawls and trinkets with us. Manoj was waiting for us

congestion and headed north towards Jaisalmer on good,

and took us the short distance to Trio, a restaurant well

straight road with little traffic. The military was

documented in the travel books and thus full of Westerners

responsible, for there is a large military presence in the

like ourselves. Local music and a good thali dinner under a

area, as evidenced by the camouflaged trucks and jeeps

colorful tent: only wish that we had been the only tourists.

that we passed. The road went through the town of

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Saturday, January 31

Jaisalmer

The sounds of beeps, moos, and barks under our perch

centuries. The profusion of carvings was sandstone and

atop the fort served as our alarm clock. Looking out

we were still jaded by the beauty of those pearly marble

over the little houses and shops and the people starting

sculptures at Dilwara. Leaving the fort, we crossed the

their work, I found myself thinking that this scene has

street to Laycha Jewelers, located up a narrow stairway

probably not changed much for hundreds and hundreds

with a low overhang that Jake bumped more than once.

of years. The silent ruins that we think so romantic are

The second-generation owner, Madan Soni, introduced

merely ghost towns; this fort is busy and breathing with

himself to us and showed us antique embroideries,

life, much as it must have since it was constructed in

interesting old locks, and various silver items. Decided

1156. A nice breakfast on the sunny roof terrace—with

to buy several things and have some earrings made.

the beeps of the tuc-tucs below and the zooms of MiGs

With his son, Pradeep, as a guide, we set o to find an

from the air base above. Walked down to the Raj Mahal,

ATM, finally locating an operable unit a,er nearly an

the royal palace museum with its richly ornamented

hour and several attempts. Returned to the shop to pick

façade. Up and down more steps to see a disappointing

up our things; Madan invited us to his home for dinner

collection. Most interesting were sets of various kinds of

and a showing of his family collection of antique

stamps. Followed a narrow alley to the Jain temples, a

Jaisalmer textiles. Jake was not too sure about this but I

group of shrines linked by courtyards and galleries that

thought it would be an interesting experience and

were constructed between the 12th and the 15th

prevailed upon him to agree.

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Wanted to see the havelis in the old town and Pradeep

served strong and spicy black tea that was absolutely

again served as our guide through the alleys and lanes

wonderful. Madan opened a metal cabinet (his

to Patwon Ki, the largest and most elaborate of them.

“treasure chest”) and for the next couple of hours, he

Pradeep insisted that we climb the stairs to all five

took out piece a,er piece of exquisite, museum-quality

floors, and did not let us take short cuts with our visit.

embroidery for us to admire. A,er an hour or so,

Also paid an entrance fee and a camera fee to visit a

Puchpa, his wife, served us a delicious vegetarian meal,

small museum across the way but there was nothing

thali-style, at a low table. Sometime a,er 8:00, we

much to see and we did not take a picture. Met Manoj

protested that we should be going, at which point they

for a short visit to a silversmith who had a family

insisted on showing us their 4-story house that

business out of his home. Then back to Madan’s shop

included a showroom of the father’s silverwork and

just before 6:00 so that Pradeep could lead us to their

prized treasures for sale. It was interesting for is to see

house. He took us a roundabout way, through an

the amazingly poor utilization of space in the house.

endless tangle of alleys, broken pavement, animal

The Soni family—Grandma, Grandpa, Madan, Puchpa,

excrement, and excited children. At one point, I was

and their three children—was crammed into a couple

almost caught up in a couple of copulating cattle.

of bare rooms on the ground floor: the kitchen was

Madan welcomed us at his front door (he had come on

tiny and the TV viewing platform appeared to be a

his motorcycle the direct way). Removed our shoes and

parked motorcycle. But above, they had three more

came in to meet the father who was sitting at a low

floors and a finished roo,op terrace with marble floor.

workbench and just putting the finishing touches on

At 9:30 we insisted that we had to go and Madan led us

my earrings. We all admired them and he beamed

the short way back to the gate where a tuc-tuc

when I expressed my pleasure in how they had turned

whisked us up to our hotel. A roo,op drink before

out. We were shown into a small room where I sat on a

going down to bed, but pounding music and several

mat on the floor (Jake was brought a chair) and were

loud bangs below made sleep difficult.

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Sunday, February 1

Jodhpur

The revelry continued almost all night, the pounding music

us at the Taj Hari Mahal and we said good-by to him again

eventually morphing into soulful chanting. Too chilly for

a,er our many kilometers together. A lovely woman greeted

breakfast on the roof, we ate indoors. Met Manoj at 8:00

us and placed a dot of sandalwood paste on our foreheads

again for the trip back to Jodhpur. Again, lots of military

again. Were served hot chocolate and given warm towels as

vehicles but otherwise, little traffic. A tea stop for Manoj at

we checked in. Our comfortable room was most welcome a,er

Manvar Resort, billed “an oasis in the desert;” actually a very

the last few nights in that strange little hotel at Jaisalmer Fort.

nice roadside guesthouse. Nearing Jodhpur, passed great stone

Napped and luxuriated in the tub in the a,ernoon; then down

quarries and trucks, trucks, trucks. Manoj took us directly to

to the bar for a drink. Another “Only in India” moment: a

the Sardar Market by the clock tower where we went to

“Drinks Buffet”—all you can drink from 7:30 to 10:30. Good

Mohantal Verhomal, a spice shop owned by young Nikki and

idea? Tried Indian vodka and rum—not bad. Looked in Paisley,

her seven sisters and recently widowed mother. As she

the hotel boutique, and recognized the owner, Fazal. We met

explained, theirs is the only legitimate spice shop around, and

him in Mumbai when he was visiting the Kashmir Art Palace

showed us how fake saffron is made with dye and old

when we were there.

newspapers. We le, with curry and masala spices and a URL

Restaurant was one of the best meals we’ve had in India.

Later, dinner in the hotel’s Marwar

where we can download their cookery book. Manoj dropped

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The Spice Market

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Taj Hari Mahal Jodhpur

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Monday, February 2

Jodhpur

Lazy morning, sleeping in a bit, which felt great, especially in

jali. The effect of it all was magical. And from its location

our lovely room. Breakfast and a little shopping at Fazal’s

high above the city we were treated with views of the blue

shop. At 2:00, we arranged for a car to take us to several

houses, and in the distance, the Umaid Bhawan Palace. As we

points of interest in Jodhpur. Biwani was our driver; he took

descended the steep cobblestone lane, we saw the series of

us first to Mehrangarh Fort. As we drove up the rocky cliff

handprints of the maharani who had committed sati,

above the old town, we saw the houses painted blue that

throwing themselves onto their husbands’ funeral pyres. On

give the Jodhpur the name, the “Blue City.” The fort, still run

our way back into town, made a brief stop at Jaswant

by the Maharaja of Jodhpur, is captivating. Wisely chose to

Thanda, an 1899 white marble cenotaph that marks the

spend the 15 rupees for the elevator to the top. Meandered

cremation spot of a former maharaja. Jake had arranged for

through various really neat exhibits: elephant seats

us to have dinner at Umaid Bhawan Palace, part of which has

(howdahs) decorated with animals that resembled Maurice

been turned into a Taj hotel. Spent the rest of the a,ernoon

Sendak’s Wild Things, palanquins with swans and covered

exploring the massive marble spaces (with touches of Art

with silver, fancifully carved royal cradles. Many rooms were

Deco) and strolling in the garden. Drinks in the Trophy Bar

elaborately decorated with brightly colored paintings, gold

and dinner under The Pillars as the sun set in a cloudless sky.

leaf, and mirrors. In between were courtyards with carved

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Mehrangarh Fort 50

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Tuesday, February 3

Jaipur

By 8:00 we were on the road again with Biwani as our driver.

some of the stands we saw, row a,er row of them. Eventually

Another tense drive; all but the last 130 km. on a 2-lane road.

we found the Maniharon ka Rasta, the narrow alleyway where

Unbelievable number of trucks. So many, in fact, that there were

scores of tiny workshops make bangles of lac. Using the resinous

shops along the way selling truck decorations—tinsel and

secretion of a female insect found in acacia and soapberry trees,

pompons—and countless truck stops as well. Saw another

a woody substance is created and formed into bangles of every

overturned truck—our fi,h. Passed numerous abandoned

description. The choice was overwhelming and it was charming

construction sites and partially completed buildings le, to decay.

to see them displayed in high, colorful stacks. They are only a

Jake commented that he had noticed the same thing on other

few rupees each; we chose some from several little shops. At

driving days. Big sigh of relief when we reached a new 6-lane

one, we watched a woman resize our choices using a miniature

divided toll way, but soon realized that it too had succumbed to

coal fire and a pair of pliers. Another tuc-tuc back to the hotel

the way of Indian roads. Discomforting to be flying down an

where we had drinks by the pool, followed by dinner and music

expressway and still find cattle meandering down the middle and

on the terrace.

people casually crossing back and forth. No attempt either to have fast or slow lanes: all forms of vehicle passed each other from any lane. I will not miss this part of India. Biwani deposited us at the Samode Haveli, once the home of the Rawal of Samode, in the old Pink City. (Jaipur earned this nickname because its permanent buildings are washed in a warm, deep pink.) We were served tea in the courtyard before being shown to a spacious suite with numerous alcoves and a canopied bed. Set out immediately to see the sights. A tuc-tuc with a very persistent driver who wanted to take us on a tour dropped us off at Hawa Mahal, the “Palace of Winds” the 1799 landmark of Jaipur, built as a viewing stand for the women of the royal family. From there we walked through various bazaars with annoyingly persistent hawkers—a real gauntlet of pushiness. Vegetables, kitchenware, books, medicine, saris, and shawls—these were just 60

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Wednesday, February 4

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Jaipur

Breakfast buffet in the extensively decorated dining room.

was far better maintained than the one we visited in Delhi;

Tuc-tuc driven by the same offensive man we had yesterday;

the scales of measurement were still visible. Nearby was the

again he pushed to give us a tour and again we had him drop

City Palace, set in a large compound surrounded by an 18th c.

us off at the Hawa Mahal. Walked back to Maniharon Ka

wall where we saw textiles, arms, and two Guinness record-

Rasta to add to our bangle collection, a feat that involved

holding silver urns. Tried to find a textile dealer recommended

crossing several busy streets. I have now figured out how to

by Fazal with no luck, so we returned to the hotel. At 3:00 I

do this and hopefully stay in one piece: 1. Wait for some kind

had an appointment with Indira for a shirodhara massage at

of break in the traffic; 2. Try to find a local to hide behind; 3.

the spa. Following a full body massage with hot oil that

Once you start, keep going at a firm and steady pace. I

involved single movements from neck to toe, she rubbed oil

accomplished #3 by not looking. Although the bangle shops

over my face, neck, ears and head. Next in this Kerala

were picturesque, the alley was anything but. It began with a

Ayurvedic therapy, three liters of herbal oil was poured on my

bank of urinals which was far from private, and continued

forehead in a thin stream, for a half hour or so. The sensation

with numerous filthy pigs nosing through copious piles of

was mesmerizing, stimulating, relaxing, all at once. I have

garbage. A,er making our purchases, we walked towards the

never felt anything like it. A,erwards, 15 minutes of steam

City Palace, stopping on our way at the Jantar Matar, the

was followed by a shower. Wow. Really sensational. Met Jake

garden of colossal astronomical instruments built by Jai Singh

for cocktails by the pool again, followed by dinner on the

II between 1728 and 1733, that are so accurate that they led to

terrace with tabla and sitar gently playing in the background.

revisions of the Hindu and Muslim calendars. This observatory

Divinely decadent.

Jantar Mantar

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City Palace

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Thursday, February 5

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Amber/Jaipur

Veenu made arrangements for a driver to take us to Amber. At

Mandir, a group of chambers inlaid with tiny mirrors that

9:00, Surendra picked us up in a Tata Indica, adequate for

sparkled and shimmered in the light. I read that the light of a

today but not when we will be toting baggage to the airport

single candle reflected in the mirrors transforms the room into

tomorrow. Amber is only 8 km. from Jaipur, an easy drive on

a “starlit sky.” A,er we returned to the car, Surendra took us a

nice roads. On the way, passed the 18th c. Jal Mahal, floating in

short distance through the village of Amber to the newly

the center of Lake Man Sagar. It had once been used by the

opened Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, located in a

maharajas for duck shoots, but is now abandoned. I had talked

beautifully restored haveli. Walked through exhibits

myself into taking the elephant ride up the steep ramp to

documenting the resurgence in hand block printing with

Amber Fort, but Surendra drove right past the staging area and

examples of beautiful textiles. There was an excellent shop

brought us up the back way used by jeeps. Just as well; the

where we bought their publications. Back into town we drove

long line of tourists with their sun hats and cameras lurching

on through the old Pink City and into the new part of Jaipur

up the ramp looked so silly that we felt positively smug not to

where we found the Anokhi flagship store, located on the

be among them. Being in close proximity to Jaipur, one of the

second floor of an attractive mall in Kripal Kumbh. Their

top three tourist destinations in India (with Delhi and Agra),

fabrics are produced on their organic farm, which also grows

Amber attracts a huge number of foreign tourists. Saw Italians,

produce that is served in the accompanying café. A,er

Brits, Germans, and French as well as Americans and Asians.

shopping, we stopped for a bowl of soup there, but I decided

Taking advantage of this army of visitors, the local people

not to chance the “safe salads” that were offered. Back to the

provided countless photo-ops (tips requested): women with

Samode by 2:30 to start packing for the trip home. As always,

pots on their heads or toting adorable children, men with

the Big Question: Will it all fit? Enjoyed our last dinner in India

colorful headdresses or playing musical instruments (with and

on the terrace with Rajasthani specialties and Kingfishers,

without snakes in baskets). Explored the fort, again choosing

topped off with masala chai. Then early to bed; we have a long

to have no guide or audio tour. Most beautiful was the Jai

trip tomorrow.

Amber Fort

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Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing

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Friday, February 6

Jaipur/In Flight

Our last day in India. Slept in; late breakfast. A little last-minute shopping at Ethnic Arts, a small shop within the hotel compound: gi,s for Mike and Chris, a tikka box, and mala, Hindu prayer beads (108 beads made of rudraksh seeds found in northern India.) Warm conversation with Vinod Soni, who owns the shop with his father.

Interesting how so many vocations and occupations pass down from generation to generation here. At noon, we checked out and loaded our bags into the larger car that Veenu had again arranged for us.

Harish drove us to the Taj Rambagh Palace for lunch, once the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and perhaps the grandest palace hotel in Rajasthan, if not India. Charles and Diana once stayed there.

Began with fino sherry in the Polo Bar, followed by lunch in the Rajput Room where we sat under the watchful eye of the Queen Mother’s bejeweled portrait. Spicy Rajasthani dishes and freshly made cardamom ginger ale, followed by pineapple sorbet and a last cup of masala chai.

Jake gave me a beautiful pair of gold and garnet earrings as we said good-by to India. And then it was back to reality and the long, laborious process of getting home. Arrived at the airport just a,er 3:00, changed into our traveling clothes in the washrooms and waited for our 7:50 PM Kingfisher flight to Delhi. As we waited in the terminal, saw lots of military people going through. The female officers were wearing uniform saris and I saw a customs official in a white sari with epaulettes pinned on her shoulders. Arrived in Delhi at 8:30 and transferred by bus to the international terminal. A long wait and then, off to Amsterdam at 1:40 AM. 84

Taj Rambagh Palace

Saturday, February 7 An easy 8-hour flight—we were able to sleep the whole

the station and return by train to the airport. Just a

way—arriving in Amsterdam at 6:00 AM. Had checked

taste of Amsterdam, but it made me want to come

our luggage through to Chicago; went through

back. At 3:45 PM, took off on KLM 611 for another 8-

passport control and found lockers in which to stow

hour flight to Chicago. Again, I was able to sleep, which

our carry-on bags. Train into the city in the darkness.

made the time pass quickly. Arrived at O’Hare at 5:30

Chilly rain really cut through us after five weeks of

PM. Did not take long to clear customs; a taxi back

perfect weather. Saw that there was a Saturday market

home, arriving just before 8:00 PM. By then, our time

in the Waterlooplein and managed to find the area by

was so messed up that we had all kinds of energy for

streetcar in the darkness. When we saw that it was not

unpacking, mail, and laundry. Jet lag will be catching

yet open, stopped in at the cozy Café Waterloo and

up, however, no doubt about that!

had latte and cheese toast made with a crispy baguette and aged Gouda—really tasted good after all of our Indian dishes. Chatted with the other people there; they were obviously regulars. The market, they said, did not open until 11:00 and was not worth waiting for, so after we finished our snack, we took the streetcar to the Rijks Museum. Like so many other museums in the world, the Rijks is undergoing a major renovation and only a small portion was open. However, the greatest masterpieces were on view and we enjoyed seeing the Vermeers and Rembrandts and other masters of the Netherlands’ Golden Age. Explored the Spiegelkwartier, looking in antiques shops and crossing numerous canals on our way to the Nieuwe Kerk and the palace in the central square. Then it was time to get back to

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Amsterdam/Chicago

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India Itinerary January 5 to February 7, 2009

JANUARY Monday

5

Scheduled one-stop departure (Amsterdam) on KLM Flights 612 and 871 rebooked on American Airlines because of late arrival of KLM equipment.

Depart CHICAGO, ORD, Terminal 2 (non-stop) on American Airlines Flight 292 (777) at 19:35, Seats 42H (aisle) and 42I (center) IN FLIGHT

Tuesday

6

Arrive NEW DELHI, DEL, at 22:30 (on time; 14 hours 25 minutes flight time; overfly Canada, Norway, Sweden, Belarus, Ukraine, Russia, Azerbaijan,Turkmenistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan). Airport pickup delayed to 01:20 on Wednesday.

Hotel Corus B-49, Inner Circle, Connaught Place NEW DELHI

Wednesday

7

Breakfast: Hotel Corus Old Delhi: Jama Masjid Mosque, Red Fort, Chandi Chowk bazaar, Spice Market, Connaught Place Dinner: home of Drs. Veenu and Rakesh Chopra in Visant Vihar Hotel Corus NEW DELHI (Hotel Corus)

Thursday

8

Breakfast: Hotel Corus Qutb Minar complex, Humayun’s Tomb, Baha’i Temple, Victory Square, President’s Palace, Parliament and its Library, government buildings on Rajpath Road, Janpath Road Dinner: Bukhara (ITC Maurya: Sheraton Starwood) Hotel Corus NEW DELHI

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Ravi: 33 kilometers/20 miles

Friday

9

Breakfast: Hotel Corus Observatory, Nehru Memorial Museum & Library, Gandhi Memorial Museum, Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum, National Museum of India, Cra,s Museum Dinner: Patiala Peg Bar, 1911 Restaurant (The Imperial) The Imperial Janpath, Connaught Place NEW DELHI

Saturday

Ravi: 23/14

10 Breakfast: 1911 Restaurant (The Imperial) Janpath Road, Central Cottage Industries Emporium Dinner: Spice Route (The Imperial) The Imperial NEW DELHI

Sunday

11

Depart New Delhi (NDLS) on Indian RR Shatabdi Express 2002 at 06:15 Arrive Agra Cantonment (AGC) at 08:23 (on time) Agra: Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and mosque; Yamuna: I’timad ud-Daulah’s tomb, Chini ka Rauza’s tomb, Rambagh garden. (Katchpura village) Dinner: Esphahan (Oberoi Amarvilas) ITC Mughal/ Sheraton Starwood Taj Ganj AGRA

Monday

12

Shiv Kumar: 18/11

Breakfast: Taj View Hotel Fatehpur Sikri: Royal Palace, Jami Masjid, Sheik Salim Christi Tomb; Sikandra: Akbar’s Tomb Dinner: Peshwari (ITC Mughal/Sheraton) ITC Mughal/ Sheraton Starwood AGRA

Shiv Kumar: 106/66

91

Tuesday

13

Breakfast: Taj View Hotel Depart Agra Cantonment (AGC) on Indian RR Shatabdi Express 2002 at 08:28 Arrive Gwalior (GWL) at 09:55 (20 minutes late) Gwalior: Gwalior Fort, Jain sculptures, Sikh Temple, Jai Vilas Palace Dinner: Silver Saloon (Usha Kiran Palace) Usha Kiran Palace Jayendragan Lashkar GWALIOR

Wednesday

Ravi: 11/7

14 Breakfast: Usha Kiran Palace Depart Gwalior (GWL) on Indian RR Shatabdi Express 2002 at 09:46 Arrive Jhansi (JHS) 10:55 (7 minutes late) Car from Jhansi to Orchha Orchha: Jahangir Mahal; Sheesh Mahal; Raj Mahal Dinner: Hotel Sheesh Mahal Hotel Sheesh Mahal Palace: Jehangir Mahal Road ORCHHA

Thursday

15

Ravi: 23/14

Breakfast: Hotel Sheesh Mahal Depart Orchha 08:10 by car; arrive Khajuraho at 12:45 Khajuraho: Temples of Western Group, Eastern Group and Southern Group Dinner: Hotel Chandela Hotel Chandela Airport Road KHAJURAHO

92

Ravi: 203/127

Friday

16

Breakfast: Hotel Chandela Depart Khajuraho 05:05 by car; arrive Sanchi at 12:05; arrive Bhopal 14:45 Sanchi: Gateways, stupas, temples, pillars Depart Bhopal, BHO, on Jet Airways Flight 9W3418 (ATR72) at 18:40.

Arrive Indore, IDR, at 19:25 (5 minutes early) Dinner: Earthen Oven (Fortune Landmark Hotel) Fortune Landmark Hotel Adjoining Meghdoot Gardens INDORE

Saturday

17

Ravi: 403/252

Breakfast: Fortune Landmark Hotel Depart for Mandu at 09:00 and returned at 16:25 Mandu: Royal enclave; Jain Temple; Nil Kanth Temple, Rupmati Pavillion; Rewa Kund Group Dinner: Earthen Oven (Fortune Landmark Hotel) Fortune Landmark Hotel INDORE

Sunday

Disrud: 213/133

18 Breakfast: in flight snack Depart Indore, IDR, on Kingfisher Airlines Flight IT3148 (Airbus 320) at 08:10.

Arrive Mumbai, BOM, at 09:05 (15 minutes late) Mumbai: Gateway of India, Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai University, Maidan Oval Lunch: Soona Mahal Dinner: Trishna InterContinental Hotel 135 Marine Drive MUMBAI

93

Monday

19 Breakfast: InterContinental Mumbai: Reality Tours’ Dharavi Slum and Sightseeing Tour (personal) at 08:40 and return at 17:40: Dharavi slum, Marine Drive, Mahalaxshmi Dhobi Ghat, Mahalaxshmi Temple, Haji Ali’s Mosque, Bangganga Tank, Chowpatty Beach, Malabar Hill, Tower of Silence, Jain Temple, Crawford Market Lunch: Summer Park InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Tuesday

Ganesh; Girash: 23/14

20 Breakfast: InterContinental Depart on launch to Elephanta at 09:10 and return at 13:15 Elephanta: caves ; Mumbai: Merriweather Road, Ahmed Joo. Bombay Electric, Phillips, Fabindia Lunch: Leopold Café; India Tea Centre Dinner: Wasabi (Taj Mahal Palace and Tower) InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Wednesday

21 Breakfast: Indian Tea Centre Mumbai: CST/Victoria Terminus, Mutton Road in Chor Bazaar, Oberoi Shopping Center, Colaba shops Dinner: The Dome (InterContinental Hotel) InterContinental Hotel MUMBAI

Thursday

22 Breakfast: Coffee Day (Mumbai Domestic Airport) Depart Mumbai, BOM, on Jet Airways Flight 9W113 (Boeing 737): at 07:15.

Arrive Aurangabad, IXU, at 08:15 (15 minutes late) Depart Aurangabad at 09:10 by car (Classic Travel); arrive Daulatabad at 10:15; at Ellora at 12:20; and return to Aurangabad at 16:45

94

Daulatabad: fortress, Grishneshwar Temple; Ellora: Kailasa Temple; Buddhist, Hindu and Jain caves; Aurangabad: Kholdabad Tomb, Bibi-qa-Maqbara Mausoleum, Paithanee Saree Center Dinner: Garbah Bar (Ambassador Ajanta) Ambassador Ajanta Hotel Chikalthana, R-4, Cidco, Jalna Road AURANGABAD Friday

23

Sulieman Patel: 68/43

Breakfast: Ambassador Ajanta Depart Aurangabad at 08:10 by car; arrive Ajanta at 11:15; return to Aurangabad 17:20 Ajanta: Caves Dinner: The Society (Ambassador Ajanta) Ambassador Ajanta Hotel AURANGABAD

Saturday

24

Sulieman Patel: 203/127

Breakfast: Ambassador Ajanta Depart Aurangabad, IXU Jet Airways Flight 9W114 (Boeing 737) at 08:45.

Arrive Mumbai, BOM, at 09:30 (10 minutes late) Depart Mumbai, BOM, on Jet Airways Flight 9W327 (Boeing 737) at 11:00 Arrive Ahmedabad, AMD, at 12:00 (30 minutes late) Ahmedabad: Millowner’s Association Building (Le Corbusier); Indian Institute of Management (Louis Kahn), Shreyas Folk Museum (Doshi), Gumpha Cave (Doshi), Calico Cra, Center, Saurashtra, Gamthiwala; Dinner: Agashiye (House of MG) House of Mangaldas Girdhardas Dr Tankaria Road AHMEDABAD

Mohammed: 9/5

95

Sunday

25 Breakfast: House of MG Ahmedabad: Heritage Walking Tour (audio): Sidi Saiyed Mosque; Bhada Fort, Teen Dargaja Gate, Jumma Masjid; Stock Exchange; Mangaldas ni Haveli; Car to Calico Museum of Textiles (tour 10:30 to 12:30) Andalaj Vav Dinner: Agashiye (House of MG) House of Mangaldas Girdhardas AHMEDABAD

Monday

Jonny: 33/20

26 Indian Republic Day Breakfast: House of MG Depart Ahmedabad by car at 08:10, arrive Modhera at 10:25, arrive Patan at 12:40, and Mount Abu at 18:10 Modhera: Sun Temple; Patan: Queen’s Stepwell; Salvi family (patolas) Dinner: Polo Bar and restaurant (Jaipur House) Jaipur House Mount Abu Road MOUNT ABU

Tuesday

Jonny: 333/208

27 Breakfast: Jaipur House Mount Abu: Dilwara temples; Dinner: Polo Bar and restaurant (Jaipur House) Jaipur House MOUNT ABU

Wednesday

28 Breakfast: Jaipur House Depart Mount Abu by car at 08:05, arrive Rankapur at 12:10, arrive Kumbhalgarh at 15:05, arrive Udaipur at 18:40 Rankapur: Jain Temples; Kumbhalgarh: fortress; Udaipur: Pichola Lake

96

Dinner: Jagat Niwas Palace terrace Jagat Niwas Palace 23-25 Lal Ghat UDAIPUR Thursday

Manoj: 326/204

29 Breakfast: Jagat Niwas Palace Udaipur: Palace and Museum, Anoki, Shiv Niwas Palace Lunch: Fateh Prakash Palace terrace Dinner: Jagat Niwas Palace terrace Jagat Niwas Palace UDAIPUR

Friday

30 Breakfast: Jagat Niwas Palace Reserved Kingfisher Airlines Flight IT 2331to Jodhpur and Flight IT 2331 to Jaisalamer both cancelled.

Depart Udaipur by car at 08:05, arrive Jaisalmer at 18:30.

Jaisalmer: Fort Dinner: Trio (Amar Sagar Gate) Garh Jaisal Hotel On fort, Kotri Para JAISALMER

Saturday

31

Manoj: 596/373

Breakfast: Garh Jaisal Hotel Jaisalmer: fortress, Raj Mahal Palace Museum, Jain temples, Patwan Ki Haveli, Laycha Dinner: home of Madan and Puchpa Soni Garh Jaisal Hotel JAISALMER

97

FEBRUARY Sunday

1 Breakfast: Garh Jaisal Hotel Reserved Kingfisher Airlines Flight IT 2332 to Jodhpur cancelled.

Departed Jaisalmer by car at 08:15, arrived Jodhpur at 13:30.

Jodhpur: Clock Tower, Sardar Market, Mohantal Verhomal Spice Shop Dinner: The Bar, Marwar Restaurant (Taj Hari Mohal) Taj Hari Mahal 5 Residency Road JODHPUR

Monday

2

Manoj: 308/193

Breakfast: Taj Hari Mahal Jodhpur: Meherangarh Fort, Umaid Bhawan Palace Dinner: Trophy Bar, The Pillars (Umaid Bhawan Palace) Taj Hari Mahal JODHPUR

Tuesday

3

Breakfast: Taj Hari Mahal Departed Jaipur by car at 08:00, arrived Jaipur at 14:20 Jaipur: Hawa Mahal, Bazaars Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli Samode House, Gangapole JAIPUR

Wednesday

4

Biwani: 348/218

Breakfast: Samode Haveli Reserved Kingfisher Airlines Flights IT 2332 to Udaipur and Jaipur cancelled.

Jaipur: Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, City Palace and museums, Maniharon Ka Rasta bazaar Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli JAIPUR

98

Thursday

5

Breakfast: Samode Haveli Amber: fortress, Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing; Jaipur: Anokhi store in Kripal Kumbh Lunch: Anokhi Cafe Dinner: Samode Haveli Samode Haveli JAIPUR

Friday

6

Surendra: 39/25

Breakfast: Samode Haveli Jaipur: Taj Rambagh Palace Lunch: Polo Bar, Rajput Room (Taj Rambagh Palace) Depart Jaipur, JAI, on Kingfisher Airlines Flight IT612 (Airbus 319) at 20:00, Arrive Delhi, DEL, 21:15, Terminal 1 (45 minutes late) TERMINAL-IN FLIGHT

Saturday

7

Harish: 14/9

Depart: Delhi, DEL, Terminal 2 (one-stop): KLM Flight 872 (747) at 01:40; Seats 30C (aisle) and 30D (aisle) Arrive AMSTERDAM, AMS, at 05:25. (30 minutes early, 8 hours 15 minutes flight time; overfly Pakistan, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Germany) Amsterdam: Central Station, Waterlooplein flea market, Rijksmuseum, Spiegelkwartier, Nine Streets area, Stedelijk Museum exhibit in Nieuwe Kerk, Central Square Breakfast: Waterloo CafĂŠ, Amsterdam Lunch: in flight Depart: Amsterdam, AMS, KLM Flight 611 (747) at 15:45; Seats 22B (center) and 22C (aisle).

Arrive: CHICAGO, ORD, at 17:20 (on time, 8 hours 35 minutes flight time; 32 hours 50 minutes total elapsed from Jaipur departure; overfly: United Kingdom, Canada).

Total driving: 3,333 kilometers/2,083 miles (13 drivers) Numerous taxis, tuc-tucs and bicycle rickshaws Three train trips Six domestic flights (three cancelled en route) 99

Key: Red: Car/Train Purple: Round Trip Blue: Air 100

V. 3