2009 India 2

Incredible India 2

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a five-week journey in northwestern India from January 5 to February 7, 2009. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2009.

Incredible India January 5-February 7, 2009 India ... cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, grandmother of legend, great grand mother of tradition ...

V. 2

Sunday, January 18

Mumbai

Alarm at 5:30. Final pack-up complicated by the fact that I have misplaced my glasses that I bought in Mexico the last time that I misplaced my glasses on a trip. Final nail-biting drive with Dusrut to the airport. Invisible bikes scooting out from the darkness added a little spice and there is nothing like headlights coming straight at you to give you that jumpstart in the morning. Impressive security measures as we checked in for our Kingfisher flight (yes, the same Kingfisher as the beer) to Mumbai.

Slightly delayed, the Airbus 320 took off at 8:10, arriving 50 minutes later. Met by a driver arranged by Veenu. Interesting ride into town: what should have taken 45 minutes became an hour and a half as we encountered the end of the Mumbai Marathon and Marine Drive was blocked where the Intercontinental is located.

Had to park a ways off and roll our bags down to the hotel. Our room was large, airy, and Zenlike, and offered a lovely western view over Back Bay and the Arabian Sea.

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Took a taxi to the Gateway of India, adjacent to the Taj

our travels, as many of our planned destinations are

Mahal Palace Hotel, a scene of the terrorist attacks and

pictured. There is an accompanying book that we might

where we had first made reservations. Joined crowds out

like to get. Leaving the museum, our path took us by the

enjoying a sunny Sunday a.ernoon. The Taj’s lower

wildly Victorian buildings of the University of Mumbai.

portions were boarded; looking up we could see torn

Crossed the street (with great care) to watch the cricket at

screens and fire damage. A sign on the boarded section

Maidan Oval, marveling at the number of games going on

read, ”Working to restore a symbol of Mumbai’s enduring

concurrently, all only a few feet from each other.

spirit and dignity.” Walked along the shops behind the Taj

Somehow they seemed to avoid getting bonked on the

and stopped to look at an old Ganjifa card set in silver in

head. Then back towards Marine Drive, looking in shop

the window of Kashmir Arts. Went in for a closer look and

windows and getting acquainted with the city. Stopped

liked it; will give it further thought. Down to the former

for a beer and a small pizza at Soona Mahal on the corner

Prince of Wales Museum, now conveniently renamed

of Marine Drive. Later, dinner at Trishna, the venerable

Chhatrapati Shivaji Vastu Sangrahalaya. Lovely collection

seafood restaurant, tucked down an alley. Obviously a

of miniature paintings—apparently one of the best in

local favorite, but we were a little disappointed in the

India. Also a fine map collection. Special exhibit, Indian

food.

Landscapes by Western Artists, was a good introduction to

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Prince of Wales Museum

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The University of Mumbai

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Cricket at the Maidan Oval

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Monday, January 19

Mumbai

At 8:30, Ganesh Tikonkar, our guide from Reality Tours, picked us

Walked past leather tanners and tailors and soap makers. These

up at the hotel in a small Tata for our visit to the Dharavi slum. As we

small businesses turn over almost $700 million a year. Ganesh told us

sped north, Ganesh pointed out the community of people known as

that many of the inhabitants of Dharavi moved there from villages,

“pavement dwellers,” who inhabit shanties and tents on the city

leaving home and family for as long as 15 or 20 years. They work 10

sidewalks. Passed the red-light district of Kamadhipura, the women

to 12 hours every day of the year for about 120 rupees ($2.40) a day.

hanging out along Peela Street even in the morning. Ganesh told us

These people are predominately Muslim and Hindu and since the

that some of these women are brought into the business as early as

violence of 1993, have gotten along well, working side by side. He

nine years of age. He showed us the open-air Dhobi Ghat at Saat

showed us the Habeeb Roza Primary School, managed by the Sunni

Rasta near Mahalaxmi Station where hundreds of laundrymen and

Action Committee, and a secondary school where women were

their families do Mumbai’s washing. Great view from a bridge, where

drying papads (thin wafers) on overturned baskets. A quick look at

we saw row after row of concrete washtubs and lines of sheets and

the Kumbharwada, home of the pot-makers, before we returned to

shirts and pants hanging out to dry, as far as the eye could see. While

the car for lunch and the second part of our daylong tour.

we were standing there, a turbaned Sikh approached us, and having noticed our kada, invited us to be guests in his home. Mr. Baljit Singh gave us his card; he has some kind of tour agency. On to Dharavi, the largest slum in Asia. Established in 1933, it incorporates almost two square km. of land and is home to more than a million inhabitants.

What looks like a shanty jumble is in fact a collection of settlements in which people from all over India have set up homes and established tiny factories. With Ganesh leading us, we negotiated the narrow alleys and dark passages, stepping in and out of doors to see the people at work in over 10,000 different businesses. Watched a man block-printing cloth, using a hand-carved wooden stamp and a toxicsmelling dye. Saw several steps of a plastics recycling business, from initial sorting to the processing of the colored pellets that will be used to mold new items such as toys, combs, and buckets. Visited shops where old paint cans and used oil tins are cleaned and refurbished.

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Dhobi Ghat

Plastic Recycling and Sorting, Oil Reprosessing, and Bakery operations at Dharavi

Ganesh Tikonkar our guide 10

Dharavi

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on the causeway towards Haji Ali

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on the path to Mahalaxmi Temple

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Near the crematorium in Malabar Hill

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Jain Temple Mumbai

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Crawford Market

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Tuesday, January 20

Elephanta/Mumbai

Taxi to the Gateway to India where we bought tickets for the

the way. Returned to Kashmir Arts for another look at the

9:00 motor launch to Elephanta Island. As ours was the first

Ganjifa card. At Ahmed Joo, saw a silver paan box that I fell in

boat out in the morning, dropped men and supplies off at

love with, but decided to wait and think before buying.

different launches. Many men live on these boats and day

Crossed the street to Bombay Electric, a trendy boutique

workers come and bring supplies with them. An hour-long

where we bought several things for our girls and for me, too.

cruise to Elephanta. Coming ashore, took the narrow-gage

Stopped for a cold drink at Leopold Café, the 1871 Mumbai

train down a 400-meter causeway to the foot of a gradual

institution that had been one of the terrorist targets last

ascent. Up a path flanked by the ubiquitous vendors and small

November. Today, the place was packed and the only

restaurants, followed by over 100 steps to the ticket booth.

indication of what had gone before was a donation box for the

Passed a group of monkeys as we made our way to the

families of the employees who had died. Checked for paan

entrance of the 6th c. rock-cut temple dedicated to Shiva.

boxes at Phillips, a well-known antiques store, but found the

Inside, massive columns are carved from the living rock. At the

place generally disappointing. Up Mahatma Gandhi Avenue to

center is a powerful 6-meter sculpture of Shiva with three

Fabindia where I bought a couple of inexpensive shirts to wear

faces, embodying the powers of creator, preserver, and

around while we are here. Rough clay cups of spicy masala at

destroyer. The effect was magical and I could only imagine

the Tea Centre near our hotel; bought several boxes to take

what it must have been like to have first discovered this

home with us. Later we had dinner at Wasabi, the Japanese

mystical site. Returned to the mainland by the same boat we

restaurant in the tower of the Taj Palace where we sat at the

had taken out and were back at the Gateway by 1:00. Walked

sushi bar. Incredible wasabi sorbet that was somehow both

down Merriweather Road, looking into antiques stores along

cold and hot.

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Elephanta 20

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Leopold CafĂŠ, the 1871 Mumbai institution that was one of the terrorist targets

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Mumbai Taxis

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Wednesday, January 21

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Mumbai

Walked around the corner for breakfast at the Tea Centre

tea. Bargaining is a must and Jake got pretty good at it,

—mainly to get another cup of that spicy tea. Taxi to

buying a brass paan box, a cutter, and a little box for

Victoria Terminus or (Chhatrapati Shivaji, another

sindur, all for under 800 rupees. Another taxi to the other

impossible name) for a look at this richly ornamented

extreme—the tranquil, air-conditioned shopping arcade at

extravaganza of domes, spires, and arches that was built in

the Oberoi Hotel. Although the hotel is closed for repairs

1888. Over 2.5 million passengers move through the CST

following the attacks there, the arcade is open for

every day. Noted some evidence of security, but it was

business. Headed towards the Taj Palace, thinking it was

easy to see how impossible it would be to prevent events

only a short distance, but the curve of the streets carried

as the 11/26 attacks. Stood in a long taxi queue at the

us far out of the way and gave us quite a hike. Lots of

station only to learn that it was only for shared rides—as

people out eating street food, for which the city is quite

each cab pulled up, five or six people would pack into it. No

famous. Back to Ahmed Joo and the silver box. While Jake

idea how they sort out where they are all going. Hailed

negotiated with Javed, I chatted with Rafiq about the Sikh

one out in the street instead and headed south to the Chor

religion and his take on the terror attacks. A.er offers of

Bazaar or “Thieves’ Market.” Walked the wider Mutton

tea, mineral water, and nuts, the deal was done. We shook

Street, poking into the ramshackle shops with names like

hands and parted with our treasure. Yet another taxi back

Bismillah Art Palace or Lovely Corner, looking at brass

to the hotel; fortunately these rides are very inexpensive.

compasses, Chinese porcelain, Hindu gods, and Victorian

Have not paid over $2 for any ride and perhaps overpaid at

bric-a-brac. The industrious were busily scraping varnish or

that. Spent our last evening in Mumbai watching the

caning seats while others supervised over tiny glasses of

sunset over drinks at the Dome, atop our hotel.

Victoria Terminus

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Shopping on Mutton Street

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Mumbai market scene

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Around the Oberoi

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Thoughts from the Dome—Our four days in Mumbai have been rich and exciting. This city of nearly 22 million reveals the contrasts of India as a whole: modern skyscrapers stand next to ornate Victorian buildings, noisy bazaars adjoin glittering shopping malls, opulent neighborhoods are surrounded by sprawling slums. In spite of the horrors of November 2008, Mumbai is getting back to the business of life. And we have had a glimpse of it.

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Wednesday, January 22

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Ellora/Aurangabad

Wake up alarm at 4:00 AM. Luxury car to the airport; little

Daulatabad. Dating from the 9th c., the fort crowns a

traffic. Noticed lighted signs along the expressway: “Don’t

forbidding sheer wall of granite. In spite of a sign that

believe in rumors,” “Watchful citizens are the city’s sentinel,”

hawkers are “strictly prohibited,” we were incessantly

“Be alert and watchful,” “Together we can vanquish terror.”

harassed as we made our way up several levels of stone

Masala chai and a cake slice at Coffee Day in the airport

steps. Large groups of rowdy schoolchildren ran wild; we

while we waited for our 7:15 Jet Airways flight to

decided not to continue to the top. A short distance further

Aurangabad. Landed just a.er 8:00, all set to meet our pre-

on the road to Ellora, stopped to see the cream-colored 18th

arranged driver. However, no “Mr. Leonard” sign, and no

c. Grishneshwar Mandir, a heavily decorated Hindu temple

“Mr. George” sign either. Someone eventually approached

dedicated to Shiva. Removed our shoes and bent low to

us, purporting to be from Classic Tours (I was very skeptical).

enter a three-foot high doorway to the inner temple. There

He said that there had been a computer glitch and he would

we joined a queue of worshippers for darshan (entering into

take us to our hotel. I was even more skeptical. Eventually it

the presence of the divine), although Jake stepped out of

was all ironed out and we got a ride to the Ambassador

line when he saw that he would have to remove his shirt. I

Hotel and a car and driver was produced by Classic Tours,

went in and watched as brightly dressed women brought tin

which had a desk in the lobby. Dropped our bags off and met

trays of flowers to a priest who piled on the lingham in the

Sulyman Patel, our driver for the next two days. We had a

center of the mirrored room. Unfortunately, no photos

comfortable Mitsubishi Lancer, arranged as an upgrade a.er

allowed again; to bad as this was one of the most colorful

the earlier problem. We started at the hilltop fortress of

sights I have seen in India.

Daulatabad Fort

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Grishneshwar Mandir

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Our day’s drive ended at the World Heritage site of the Ellora Caves, 34 temples carved over a period of five centuries by generations of Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain monks. The monasteries, chapels, and temples were carved in living rock and decorated with a profusion of remarkably detailed sculptures. Started with the Buddhist cluster (AD 600-800) and worked our way back to the masterpiece of Ellora: the Kailasa Temple (#16). Dedicated again to Shiva, it is the world’s largest monolithic sculpture, hewn from the rock by 7000 laborers over a 150-year period. Jockeyed with Indian families and hoards of schoolchildren (who seem to take over every site we visit) for prime viewing and picturetaking positions. Found it impossible to capture the magnificence of the structure with a camera. A group of artists sat in alcoves around the second level and I thought that perhaps a paintbrush or pencil might be better suited to the task.

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Ellora Caves

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A.er Ellora, the rest of the day was anticlimactic. Brief stop at Bibi-ka-Maqbara, a mausoleum built in 1679 by the great Mughal ruler Aurangzeb’s son for his mother. Called “the poor man’s Taj,” it resembles the Taj Mahal but has none of the magic or the fine cra.smanship that distinguishes Shah Jahan’s marvel. Entered the walled town of Khuldabad to see the tomb of Aurangzeb himself, but were accosted by beggars as we entered the tacky whitewashed mosque and made a quick exit. In Aurangabad toured the Paithani Weaving Center, run by the Indian government, to see the hand-woven Himroo textiles and watch master weavers at work. Using cotton, silk, or wool, o.en with metallic threads, this weaving style is a dying art that remains a local specialty, at least for now. Had no thought of buying one but when the manager picked out a “perfect one for me,” what could I say? Back at the hotel, went down to the bar at around 7:00—the whole place could be described as over the top, in a kind of neat Indian way, and the Garbah Bar was no exception. Two-forone drinks until 8:00 so we shared Kingfishers and chatted with the bartender. Delicious spiced peanuts—of course we ate too many. Eventually we thought about dinner; the bartender ordered for us: chicken tikka masala, dal makhani, “ladyfingers” (spiced okra), mint naan, raieta: a tasty meal that we enjoyed in the bar’s warm, eccentric atmosphere. Up to bed at 10:00 but there is a party going on downstairs and the band is loud and lively.

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Friday, January 23

Ajanta/Aurangabad

Patel met us at the hotel a little a.er 8:00 for our 106-kilometer

surfaces of many of the caves. There are 30 caves in all, but some

drive to the Buddhist caves at Ajanta, another World Heritage site.

were never completed and others were austere, with little

The drive was as pleasant as one could expect, passing mango, lemon,

decoration. Scrambled up and down steps, entering 13 of the 30 caves

and papaya trees and fields of sugarcane, cotton, and sunflowers.

(1,2,4,6,7,9,10,16,17,19,24,26,27). Most required the removal of shoes,

About an hour out of town we stopped for tea, at Patel’s request, at a

but not socks (I hate that!) and we spent the best part of three hours

roadside place optimistically called the Hotel Yuvraj. As we gingerly

trying to capture the beauty of these temples with our cameras.

sipped from our cloudy little glasses, we provided entertainment for

Again, those masses of schoolchildren rushed in and out, providing

three or four young men standing around the table. Before going to

an interesting contrast: deafening screams and hoots bounced off the

the Ajanta site, Patel took us to the viewpoint across the riverbed,

ancient walls one moment, followed by the serenity of ageless quiet

where we could see the horseshoe-shaped gorge where a small

the next. Returned to the waiting car—felt good to sit and enjoy the

detachment of British soldiers first discovered the caves in 1819.

AC. Tea again at another of Patel’s haunts. He showed us a papaya

Descending a curving portion of the road, we came across an

bush and a lemon tree at the back of the place and picked a lemon for

accident that backed traffic up for a kilometer or so. Fortunately, cars

our tea. Apparently this is a familiar stop for him. Took me into the

and smaller vehicles were able to move on through so we lost no

kitchen so that I could take a picture of our water boiling. Following

time. As we passed the scene, saw a large truck overturned, with its

our tea, we were again presented with a tin tray with sugar and

load of two giant coils in the road. Learned later from Patel that the

fennel, a traditional breath freshener. I commented that I liked this

driver had been carrying a load five times heavier than his truck was

custom. As we came into town, Patel stopped at a shop and bought

designed to haul and was speeding to boot. Unfortunately, those

several packages of the fennel mix for me—some sweet and some

decisions cost him his life. Fi.een minutes later we were at the T-

salty—which I thought was very nice. Back to the hotel bar for those

junction where we bought several sets of tickets, raced through a

2 for 1 Kingfishers, followed by the dinner buffet at the Society

“shopping plaza,” and boarded a somewhat rickety bus for the final

restaurant across the hall. Strolled in the garden where Johnson &

five km. to the base of the caves. Bought more tickets and climbed

Johnson was sponsoring a party for human resource managers

the steep steps to the first cave. The Lonely Planet calls Ajanta “the

throughout India. Quite an extravaganza. The garden was set up to

Louvre of central India” and that is probably not hyperbole. The

resemble a village, with a bullock cart, sheep, and a shoeshine boy

caves, dating from 200 BC to AD 650, are cut into the steep face of a

serving as backdrops to multiple carving/food stations, an extensive

gorge. They contain not only beautiful sculptures, but even more

bar, singers, and a go-go dancer. A couple of people noticed us and

amazing are paintings of subtle beauty that decorate the interior

came up to invite us to join the party but we headed for bed instead.

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On the way to Ajanta

Hawkers at the viewpoint

Tea and company along the way 44

Ajanta caves

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Delicate wall paintings at Ajanta

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Returning from Ajanta

Bus down to the car with some little friends

Another tea stop with Patel on the way back

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Things learned from Patel: •He has 180,000 miles on his 7-year-old Mitsubishi and has had no repairs.

•His 15-year-old daughter will be married within a year in an arranged marriage but he does not yet know to whom.

•Weddings normally have 600-2000 guests and in wealthy families, there might be as many as 10,000.

•Bribery is o.en necessary in order to get a good job, in spite of the best school marks.

•If the police are paid off, one can overload trucks or stuff busses with people and they will look the other way.

•He distrusts the Congress Party, just as many Hindus do. (He is Muslim) •The normal workweek is 48 hours.

•Children attend school at least 6 days a week.

•He lives in a 400-square-foot home with his wife and two children.

•He has another daughter who lives someplace outside of town.

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Saturday, January 24

Ahmedabad

Another early morning in order to get to the airport for the Jet

curator showed us an impressive collection of Gujarati folk art

Airways 8:35 AM flight through Mumbai and continuing to

and cra.s. The richly embroidered clothing and hangings, and

Ahmedabad, Gujarat’s major city. Delayed an hour. Met by a

intricately tie-dyed bandhani were particularly beautiful. It turned

driver from the House of MG who brought us to the hotel. The

out that Mohammed was something of an architecture buff as

House of Mangaldas Girdhardas was built in 1920 as the home of

well as a local celebrity. He proudly showed us articles that

a wealthy industrialist but has now been converted into an

featured him and his architecture tours, given in his motor

historic hotel. With anticipation we were shown to Room 8, a

rickshaw. He took us to LeCorbusier’s Millowner’s Association

suite with adjoining veranda, described in Lonely Planet as

Headquarters, the Indian Institute of Management designed by

“beautifully and simply decorated with quiet attention to detail.” I

Louis Kahn, and the Gumpha, a free-form art gallery by

must admit to being a little disappointed, for what was probably

Balkrishna Doshi. Had a chance to walk around Khan’s creation of

excused as not being allowed to make changes to an historic

circles and curves, which gave us a feeling of how well his design

building looked a lot like a failure to maintain one. It all looked a

works within its environment. All the while, Mohammed pointed

little tatty. Nonetheless, Vincy Saigon, the attractive assistant

out various features like a proud father. He took us to four places

manager, greeted us warmly and her graciousness soon dispelled

to shop for famous Gujarati textiles: Calico Cra. Center,

our negative feelings. She arranged for us to go out with

Saurashtra Handicra.s (in an unfindable alley off an alley in the

Mohammed Malik, “a dependable rickshawwallah,” who would

old town), Bandhej, a surprisingly elegant boutique in a tacky

show us some of the sights of Ahmedabad and take us to a few

shopping center, and Gamthiwala, a shop piled high with silk and

shops. Mohammed was extremely personable as he loaded us into

cotton prints. By the time we finished looking at all the beautiful

his tuc-tuc and whizzed us off into the traffic. I had to keep my

things, it was nearing 8:00. Flew back to the hotel but were still

eyes closed to keep out the dust but it was just as well. A tuc-tuc

late for our dinner reservations at Agashiye, located on the

ride in heavy traffic can be pretty harrowing. It still amazes me

roo.op terrace of the House of MG. Shared a traditional Gujarati

how all the various vehicles are able to avoid running into each

thali, a meal of many small dishes that is served with flatbread

other. When Mohammed wanted to make a right turn, for

and eaten with the hands. The meal follows a set procedure and

example, he just did it, right across oncoming traffic. Not to

we were presented with written instructions that were

worry; we made it easily, missing cars and scooters by as much as

complicated to follow. Tasty and fun and we will be better at it

six inches. We first went to the Shreyas Folk Museum where the

next time.

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Met at the airport with water and flowers; checked into the House of MG and met Mohammed for our "Tuc-Tuc Tour"

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the Curator of the Shreyas Folk Museum gave us an overview of Gujarati handicrafts and embroidery before we saw them in the shops

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Beautiful Gujarati textiles

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Mohammed's architecture tour

LeCorbusier’s Millowner’s Association Headquarters 61

the Indian Institute of Management designed by Louis Kahn

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Gumpha, a free-form art gallery by Balkrishna Doshi 64

Thali 65

Sunday, January 25

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Ahmedabad

Awoke to the call to prayer from the Sidi Saiyad mosque across the

and I left with a new appreciation of the beauty and diversity of Indian

street. Set out just after 7:00 to follow an audio walking tour provided by

handicrafts. Drove 19 km. north of town to the Adalaj Vav, a stepwell built

the hotel. Although we managed to cross the street and admire the

in 1499. Steps lead down five levels and each is decorated with a series

intricate stone-carved jali depicting the Tree of Life, we soon lost our place

of heavily carved stone pillars. Set in a pleasant park, it was obviously a

on the recording and wandered on our own though the historic walled

popular spot for a Sunday afternoon visit. Good opportunity for pictures

section of the city, passing the gate of the Bhada Fort, the triple Teen

as we passed a wedding procession on the way there. Probably made a

Dargaja gate, the vegetable market, the Jumma Masjid, and the old Stock

mistake by getting out of the car, for all the little boys at the head of the

Exchange. Hailed a tuc-tuc to take us to the last stop, a haveli (old

line got pretty excited until an adult herded them back in place. Got some

wooden merchant’s house built around a courtyard) that has been

fun pictures of their exuberance as well as a smile and a wave from the

restored by the Mangaldas family. The driver had a terrible time finding it,

bride and groom. Leaving the stepwell, we returned to two of the shops

and had to ask for help a half-dozen times. It seemed that each time, he

we visited yesterday and bought some textiles. Visiting the two museums

was told to go in a different direction. Back at the hotel, we met “Jonny,�

in Ahmedabad really helped to develop my eye and we decided on a

our driver arranged by the hotel. We first went to the Calico Museum,

patola and several embroidered and tie-died pieces. Another thali meal at

where we had an appointment for a tour at 10:00. The museum houses

Agashiye; this time we had the deluxe meal for an additional 95 rupees

one of the finest collections of Indian textiles in the world. Making

which included mineral water, tea, and a tray of little sweets that were not

arrangements ahead of time was vital, as only 25 people a day may visit.

much of a temptation. We cheated and used spoons rather than just our

The woman who conducts the tours is a bit of a drill sergeant and kept us

fingers, which was a lot more pleasant. Braziers intended to take the chill

moving at such a pace that it was impossible to grasp the magnificence

out of the air instead filled it with smoke and after our tuc-tuc adventures

or appreciate the detail of the pieces. Nonetheless, it was time well spent

we have had our fill of smoggy air.

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Exploring Ahmedabad

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A wedding procession on our way out of town

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Adalaj Vav

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Monday, January 26

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Modhera/Patan/Mt. Abu India’s 60th Republic Day

The call to prayer again woke us at 6:00. Jonny met us

from 1027 and dedicated to Surya, the sun god. It was

at 8:00 for our day’s journey from Ahmedabad to

designed so that the dawn sun shone on the god’s image

Modhera and Patan on our way to Mt. Abu. To make his

during the equinoxes. The temple exterior is intricately

return journey more pleasant, he asked if he could bring

carved with gods and demons; inside pillars depict

along his wife, Semim, and Tayba, their five-year-old

scenes from the Ramayana and erotic positions. The

daughter. It was fun to have them on the trip. Semim

effect of the bright sunlight playing on the golden

met us covered with a hijab (Muslim head covering) but

carvings was stunning. Forty km. later we came to the

soon discarded it. Tayba was adorable and a real

dusty town of Patan where we saw the Queen’s

pleasure to travel with. She even entertained us along

Stepwell, strangely grand in its unassuming location. It

with way with a little song and dance. As we drove out

was built in 1050 but only excavated in the 1980s; the

of town, passed some kind of military formation

carvings are remarkably well preserved. Again, a camera

preparing for the Republic Day celebration. Also came

could not do justice to this massive structure, but it was

across a children’s parade. Camel carts pulled loads of

satisfying to take pictures of individual sculpture

schoolchildren dressed in costumes and waving flags.

elements. Near the stepwell is the Patolawala

We saw princesses and goddesses and even a little

farmhouse, where members of the Salvi family have

Hanuman and Ganesha. Older children marched beside

been making award-winning silk saris for generations.

them with flags and bright bandanas. Clearing the city,

Ujjaval Salvi took us through the labor-intensive process

it was 100 km. to Modhera and the Sun Temple, dating

of making tie-dyed double ikat.

The process of dying both the warp and the we. threads

dirt track with ruts. O.en it was hard to tell where to go

before the weaving process was hard to comprehend.

and there were sections where one did not know if the

With the help of Ujjaval, we designed a stole for me. It

road was one way or two. The last 20 km. from the village

will take more than nine months for them to complete it,

of Abu Road to Mt. Abu took us up a narrow, winding, and

but it will be something very special to wear and treasure.

rapidly ascending road. Passed a great number of

As we continued on our way to Mt. Abu, we passed a

monkeys; in fact, we passed a car that had been literally

colorful group of nomadic Rebari people walking from one

attacked by monkeys—eight or so had managed to get

camp to another. Jonny slowed and they seemed pleased

into the trunk and were running all over the car while the

for me to take pictures of them: their brilliant clothing,

frantic driver was talking on his cell phone. Saw posted

their adorable children, and their donkeys burdened with

signs soliciting protection for bears and leopards, but saw

cooking pots, small pieces of furniture, and baby goats

no evidence of these. At last, Jonny delivered us to Jaipur

tied up in red cloth! A lone man in a white turban brought

House and we said good-by to Semim and Tayba. Set on

up the rear. As I looked at these lovely women in their

the highest peak in Rajasthan, Mt. Abu, with its cool

bright colors, I again marveled that Indian women always

temperatures and lush vegetation, was a hill station for

look so fresh; their clothing never seems dusty and the

the British during the colonial era. Jaipur House is still

hems of their saris don’t show soil, even when they are

higher than the town and overlooks Nakki Lake. Followed

balancing rocks or bundles of sticks on their heads,

the porter up several flights of stone steps to the Imperial

walking along the highway. Earlier in the day we passed a

Suite at the top of the house with its own veranda and

parade of costumed children riding in carts and waving

tower pavilion. Unfortunately had to settle for beer and

flags to celebrate India’s 60th Republic Day. The final leg

Indian fare in the sterile dining room, as it was too chilly

of our trip was a challenge. A new highway was going in

to enjoy the veranda. An early night in our own little

and we found ourselves clipping along on a four-lane

palace.

divided stretch, and then suddenly it would change to a

81

82

83

84

85

86

The Camel Drivers

87

88

Sun Temple Modhera

90

Rani Ki Vav

92

94

nomadic Rebari people

96

97

99

100

V. 2