2009 Alaska 2

Alaska and the Inside Passage 2

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip to Alaska and the Inside Passage from September 6 to September 30, 2009. Photos

by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2009.

Saturday, September 19 Sitka The Big Ben chimes went off on my iPhone at 5:00 so that I

Michael’s and the Lutheran Church, to the Russian Bishop’s

could carefully wash my hair before we left. Took only our

House, a little piece of St. Petersburg in the North PaciZic.

backpacks with us for our two-day trip to Sitka, leaving

Continued to the Sheldon Jackson Museum, housing the

laundry and suitcases at the Capitol for our return on

Presbyterian missionary’s quality collection of native

Monday. Linda had packed a little breakfast for us and our

artifacts in an octagonal 1897 building. Saw the Zinest

cabbie from the night before was dozing at the front of the

baleen basket we have yet seen, as well as beautiful

house before 6:00 so as not to be late. Lots of low clouds as

examples of needlework, reed basketry and wooden masks.

we cruised to Sitka, again on the Fairweather. I am learning

From there, stopped to see what was going on at the salmon

that lots of clouds does not necessarily mean a bad day for

hatchery (Coho was in) and continued to Sitka National

Alaskans; on the contrary, if the temperature is mild and the

Historical Park; it occupies a small peninsula where the

precipitation is not heavy, then it is a good day. As we

Tlingits established a fort after driving off early Russian

neared Sitka, our captain skillfully negotiated the narrower

settlers in 1802. As a newly qualiZied applicant, bought my

passes, some appearing to be only a couple of hundred feet

Senior National Park Pass; at $10 it has to be the best deal in

wide. Coming into Sitka Bay, saw many tiny islands plumed

the country. Went through the small museum and a craft

with hemlock and spruce and inhabited only by birds.

room where we visited with Tommy Joseph, Tlingit master

Arrived at Sitka at around 12:15 and took the shuttle (an old

wood carver and totem maker. On the way back, walked

school bus; $10 round trip) for the seven-mile drive into

along the dock to get a closer look at the varied assortment

town where we were dropped off at the Totem Square Inn.

of vessels moored there. Stopped at Ernie’s Old-Time Saloon

The weather was mild and there was no rain as we set out

where we sat at the bar and Jake watched the UGA-Arkansas

to explore this pretty and historic town. The hub of Russian-

game. At 7:00, walked a few feet from the hotel for dinner at

America, Sitka (a contraction of the Tlingit word Shee Atika)

Ludvig’s, a tiny Mediterranean bistro in a little wooden

was established as its capitol, New Archangel, in 1808. The

house named after the stray wolf-hybrid that the owner

Russian legacy is still evident, from the onion-domed St.

found in 1995. Innovative tapas dishes featuring smoked

Michael’s Cathedral, to the boxy, yellow Russian Bishop’s

salmon, scallops and calamari, and a crisp sauvignon blanc

House, to the nesting dolls in the tourist shop windows.

made us almost forget that we are in a small town in the

Leaving the hotel, walked past the Pioneer’s Home for

Alaskan Panhandle.

elderly Alaskans, built in 1934. Up Lincoln Street, passing St. 1

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Sunday, September 20 Sitka Slept late and spent the morning journaling while Jake

use for cheese, and a pair of Sitka Rose beaded earrings

watched football on TV. Set out just as the wind started

made by Cathleen Pook (or Yaxthalaahaat, her Tlingit

to kick up; not the pleasant walking weather we’d had

name.) “Cass” happened to be demonstrating her work

yesterday. Old Harbor Books was a good place to spend

in the museum at the time and I enjoyed meeting this

a while on a rainy, blustery day. This must be true for a

gentle woman. Walked back to the Russian Bishop’s

lot of folks; the water-spotted sign, “Please Don’t Drip

House and took the tour of the Bishop’s private

on the Books” has been rendered into a motto on

apartment upstairs. Stepped into the simple interior of

bright yellow mugs for sale in the shop. Looked at

Michael’s Cathedral with its priceless collection of

books on native crafts and Alaska history; I bought

icons that were saved from a devastating Zire in 1966

books for my little ones. At Indian Village Artists,

when the townspeople formed a bucket brigade.

listened to an extended monologue from Boyd

Watched the cruisers board their lifeboats to go back

Didrickson, a self-described white Tlingit, about his

to the ship. Once things had quieted down in town,

dealings with fellow native people over baleen and

enjoyed a late lunch of sushi and beer at Little Tokyo.

ivory; I Zinally prevailed on Jake to escape. Returned to

Back to the hotel where TV and being lazy won out

the Sheldon Jackson Museum to buy a book I had seen

over further schlepping around in the rain.

there yesterday; we also bought a small Ulu knife to

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Monday, September 21 Juneau Met Tom Climo, Jake’s daughter’s brother-in-law, for

bought some needlework charts of several PaciZic

coffee at the Backdoor Café, a cozy spot located behind

Northwest native designs that would be fun to stitch up

Harbor Books. He is the assistant harbormaster and has

as coasters. At 12:30, the shuttle appeared at the hotel

lived in Sitka with his family for eleven years. He Zirst

and took us to the Fairweather for our Zinal trip on the

came here to attend Sheldon Jackson College (now

fast ferry. Rainy and cloudy again as we got underway a

closed) where he studied forestry. Tom provided some

little after 1:30; I would get pretty tired of this weather if

good-natured ribbing when he saw my face. Interesting

I lived here. Pulled into Juneau on schedule and called for

to hear about what it is like to live in this part of Alaska.

a taxi to take us back to the Capitol B&B. Loquacious

Final stroll down Lincoln Street before waiting for the

driver told us his life story, from Carlisle, England to

shuttle back to the ferry for our return to Juneau. Visited

Edinburgh to Juneau. After dumping our bags, walked

the Sitka Conservation Center where we were welcomed

down the hill for dinner at Zen, an Asian fusion

by the director, Andrew Thome. Decided to support their

restaurant in the Goldbelt Hotel where we enjoyed

efforts and join the society; I got a neat tee shirt. Nearby,

ginger halibut and black cod.

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Tuesday, September 22 En Route M/V Taku After a hearty breakfast prepared by Linda that included

the 5-minute trip to the top. Broke through the cloud cover

homemade coconut mufZins and rhubarb-ginger jam, donned

midway and were able to get some interesting photos of

our raingear and set off down the hill. Stopped brieZly at the

Juneau and the Gastineau Channel, framed in mountain mist.

Juneau-Douglas City Museum and continued to the Alaska

Jake was anxious to show me the workshop of enamel artist

State Museum where they have a fantastic collection of native

William Speer and we visited his second-Zloor outlet on

art. Particularly enjoyed the special traveling exhibit,

Franklin Street. Spent an hour or so looking at the hundreds

Yuungnaqpiallerput: the Way We Genuinely Live—

of tiny enamel pins depicting every imaginable subject, from

Masterworks of Yup’ik Science and Survival that had beautiful

insects to airplanes. Finally, made a visit to Observatory

examples of the materials of everyday life and many hands-on

Books where Jake talked maps with its knowledgeable

explanatory stations. Bought the accompanying book in the

proprietor, Dee Longenbaugh, who is somewhat of a local

museum shop. Walked back to town and noticed that Pel Meni

institution. Then it was time to collect our bags from the

was open; had read that the tiny restaurant serves only one

Capitol and return to the ferry terminal for our evening

item, a Russian meat-Zilled dumpling, and were intrigued. At

departure on the Taka for Ketchikan along the Inside Passage

$5 an order, we shared one served “with everything”—melted

of the southern Panhandle. Although the scheduled departure

butter, curry powder, hot sauce, and cilantro. Really good! The

was 6:00, we were not underway until almost 9:00.

place is a hangout for kids who come in to play the large

Apparently, they are able to make up for lost time, but that

collection of vinyl records on the turntable provided. Walked

may mean less time in our intermediate stops. Sandwiches in

down Franklin Street, noting the proliferation of shops

the galley and then to bed in our two-bunk cabin. Pleasantly

catering to cruise ships, from diamonds and furs to mini-

surprised to Zind a nice little bathroom and enough space to

totem poles and salmon magnets. There was a break in the

move around. I slept soundly all night in the lower berth.

weather as we climbed on the Mount Roberts Tramway for 11

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Wednesday, September 23 Ketchikan

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Jake got up at 3:00 AM to watch the docking in Kake. I

carvings located nearby, talked to Joanne, the purser,

got up at 7:00 and watched as we docked in Petersburg.

who called a taxi to meet us as soon as the ramp was

Steady rain and quick turn-around precluded our

down. Hopped into the waiting car and Connie whisked

getting off to see the Zlowery rosemaling on the

us the short distance (less than a mile and a half round

buildings of this village with a heavy Norwegian

trip) to Petroglyph Beach. Wind-and rain-swept, the

inZluence. From the deck, photographed weathered

rocky shore was covered with shells and large black

wooden buildings near the wharf and, in the distance,

rocks, some forty of which had carvings of spirals,

the snowy mountains somewhat obscured in the mist.

faces, birds and animals. A dead tree trunk and a

Were joined by members of the Petersburg Vikings

wrecked Zishing vessel lay nearby, adding to the

swim team but the boat remained essentially empty.

mysterious beauty of these carvings, which date

From Petersburg, the boat entered the Wrangell

anywhere from 1000 to 10,000 years ago. No time to

Narrows, a 22-mile, 46-turn journey along a channel

linger; Zlew back to the boat and boarded after less than

that is only 300 feet wide and 19 feet deep in places. In

20 minutes. As soon as they spotted our two red

spite of the weather, the views were amazing, and the

raincoats, we were underway. No sooner had we hung

skill of the captain impressive as he maneuvered our

up our soaking jackets to dry, the sun peeked out from

vessel back and forth between the red and green

behind the mountains. That patch of blue was a

navigational lights that have earned the Narrows the

welcome sight after the days we’ve had of grey skies

nickname, “Christmas Tree Lane.” Docked at Wrangell

and intermittent rain. But it was Zleeting; as soon as it

at 12:00; crew planned a quick turnaround to make up

came, it was replaced by clouds and more rain and a

more time. Determined to see the primitive rock

wind that kicked up the waves.

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Observations aboard the Taku 3:00 PM As we sit in the forward observation lounge, looking out at the waves, it is quiet except for the whistling of the wind around the doorways and the occasional “thwack!”of lines Nlapping outside. Rain is channeling across the windows, obscuring the view forward. The swells are around eight feet, most with white caps; the wind is at about 40 knots, but the boat feels surprisingly stable. I have to hold onto the railings when walking about, but when seated, I feel only a gentle roll. The other passengers are few and are the antithesis of cruise ship passengers. They are a diverse lot. A group of high school athletes are accompanied by a teacher who has enforced a study hall. Camper-types with soiled clothes walk around barefooted or stretch out on sleeping bags, their packs and huge bags of food surrounding them (full-size jars of peanut butter and salad dressing and giant boxes of “goldNish” and lettuce.) A couple of scruffy old men with pony tails and full beards seem comfortable wearing only light tee-shirts; one has a copy of Barnaby Rudge sticking out of a back pocket.

Some passengers are reading, some eating; most just sit or nap. There is an area in the back set aside for writing; its lone occupant is working a jigsaw puzzle. A couple in the cafeteria have set up a little display of jewelry for sale but no one is shopping. There are only a couple of tourists besides us, and a small group that appears to be conducting business. Although I am not ill, I feel a little apprehensive. Looking out at waves that disappear into an undeNined horizon, I feel small, inconsequential; just as this sturdy vessel feels to me as it makes its way across a world I do not understand.

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Encountered increasing wind and rain, making

ruined hair, wet and shivering in my sodden

it necessary for the ship to slow down. Arrived

raincoat. The woman was actually very

at Ketchikan at 8:00 in a driving rain. With a

hospitable and kindly drove us the short

population of less than 14,000, Ketchikan is

distance to the Star Building (built in the early

nonetheless the fourth largest city in Alaska. It

1900s and used as a brothel) on the Creek

was founded in 1885 as a salmon canning

Street boardwalk, where we had a room on the

center. Had some difZiculty getting a taxi and

second Zloor adjacent to the Parnassus

by the time we got to the lobby of the New

Bookshop. Immediately faced the weather

York Hotel, we were soaked through. Had to

again, walking to the Pioneer, a Route-66-

wait 15 minutes for someone to show up at the

themed diner across the street, where we had

desk; I was pretty steamed by the time our

burgers and Cokes. Back in our room, a soak in

hostess showed up, fresh and bubbly. I felt an

the giant Jacuzzi did a lot to restore my spirits.

absolute wreck with my bruised face and

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Thursday, September 24 Ketchikan

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The sound of birds screeching over the creek

we saw displays relating to the rich ecosystems

woke us at around 7:00. In spite of the clouds,

of Alaska’s 17- million-acre rainforest. Stopped

the day was much improved from the wind and

for chowder and beer at Annabelle’s, an old-

rain of the night before. Walked back to the

fashioned keg house with dark-paneled walls

New York Hotel’s coffee shop for breakfast

and a pressed-tin ceiling; its old-time feel was

bagels before exploring Creek Street and

somewhat lessened by the presence of one of

continuing up the Married Men’s Trail, once a

the “dam” (Holland-America) cruise ships

secretive getaway from the red-light district

looming full in the front window. Walked over

below. Visited the Deer Mountain Tribal

to Berth 3 to check out the boat for the

Hatchery and Eagle Center, run by the Tlingits,

“Fisherman Tour” and decided it would be

where we saw tanks of salmon in various stages

pretty tacky-touristy. Back at Creek Street,

of development. The adjacent Totem Heritage

poked in Soho Coho, a shop in the Star Building,

Center attractively housed a collection of 19th

where we enjoyed the whimsical “Zish art” of

century totem poles and provided a history and

Ray Troll: (“Da Vinci Cod,” and “Ain’t no nookie

explanation of this most authentic of native

like Chinookie,” and “Wanted dead or alive:

arts. Walked into town and returned to Creek

Salmon bin-Laden.” Took the small funicular up

Street, where we tried to take photos of the

the hill behind us to the lobby of the Cape Fox

teeming salmon making their way upstream; a

Lodge where we had drinks and smoked

bit like playing pinball with a camera. Visited

salmon pate in the cozy bar before returning to

the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center where

our room for the evening.

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Friday, September 25 En Route M/V Matanuska Woke to wind and rain; made our way to the Pioneer

salmon trade, including a sign that greeted visitors

for a hearty breakfast and then returned to the room

when they sailed into town in the 1950s: “We eat what

to pack. At around noon, Jose, who works for the hotel,

we can and we can what we can’t.” There was also a

took us in the van to Ketchikan General Hospital

sexy photo of Thelma Copeland, aka the notorious

where Dr. Mark Raine checked me out and Kristin, the

Miss Dolly, who operated a famous bordello on Creek

ER nurse, removed my Zive sutures. Things looked

Street. Made a Zinal Creek Street visit for Jake to do a

good; at least, at the wound site. My face is another

little family Christmas shopping and returned to

matter, as the bruising has migrated down to my

Parnassus Books to kill a little time. Hung out at the

lower cheeks, resulting in large smudges of purple

Ketchikan Coffee Company for the rest of the

across my face. I cringe when I look in the mirror. At

afternoon, watching the town walk by and the cruise

1:30, he picked us up and returned us to town. Visited

ships leave over big mugs of latte. At 7:00, a band

the Tongass Museum, which it shares with the public

started to set up for their Friday night jam, but we had

library, and enjoyed a special exhibit, “Our Town: the

to depart for the terminal just as they were tuning up.

Life and Times of Ketchikan,” with memorabilia of the

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Thoughts from the KCC window, watching the cruise ships depart 7:00 As the silent behemoth creeps slowly from the harbor, I can almost hear the sound of the collective deep breath of fresh Alaskan air. Silently, silently, the presence that has Nilled the skyline departs, its only sign of life, the intermittent Nlashes from numberless point-and-shoot cameras aimed from staterooms that will capture only a reNlection of the occupants. Shops that have opened early to accommodate the crowds of grey-haired couples in parkas and “The Last Frontier� caps close their doors; the owners return to their lives, their families. The bright orange Alaska Shirt Company bags are stashed on board, along with the shoppers who have learned all they care to know about Sitka or Juneau or Ketchikan. As I sit in the coffee shop window, the town seems to contract and regain its own character, its self-reliance. It seems to be acknowledging that the departure of those Nloating towers of commerce means that the long, cold winter lies ahead, before the stores are restocked with Hannah Moosetana tee shirts and ivory whales made in China, and spring returns, bringing again those intrusive but necessary islands of humanity.

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Boarded the Matanuska at 9:00 and went straight to our stateroom to get as much sleep as we could in the short night on board. As we entered more open water, the movement of the ship increased, awakening me and sending me to the window where I watched the waves spray out from the boat.

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Saturday, September 26 Port Hardy The Alaska ferry drew into Prince Rupert at around 4:15 AM;

not the dramatic scenery of Alaska but serene and lovely in

we jockeyed to be early off and had no problems clearing

the bright, almost cloudless sunlight. Just as we sat down to

Canadian customs and rolling our bags across the tracks to

dinner, started to get a little rough as we passed Queen

the berth where BC Ferry’s brand new Northern Expedition

Charlotte Sound to Vancouver Island; enjoyed a lovely meal

was waiting. German-made, the ship was commissioned

nonetheless—must be getting our sealegs. Arrived at Port

early this year and, at 150 meters in length and carrying 600

Hardy at 10:30; grabbed our bags and shared a taxi to the

passengers and 63 vehicles, impressive. Although we chose

Glen Lyon Inn, clean and adequate, and quickly crawled into

not to take a stateroom for the 14-hour journey to Port

bed.

Hardy, did spring the extra $60 for reclining seats in the forward Aurora Lounge. During our 6:00 AM breakfast, the ship got underway. Managed to fall back to sleep until 9:30, when the captain announced a whale sighting on the starboard side. I only caught photos of the blowhole but Jake was able to take one of the animal itself. At last, we have seen a whale! The trip can now be deemed a success. The weather was calm and partly sunny as we proceeded soundlessly through Grenville Channel, the narrowest portion of which is only 1400 feet wide; depths over 1600 feet make it passable by our large vessel. An hour further, passed the 1918 Zishing village of Butedale, its ruined cannery and nearby waterfall nestled into the surrounding mountains of Princess Royal Island. An enchanting afternoon, the ship gently swaying as we slipped through calm waters past spruce-covered islands; 42

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Sunday, September 27 Tofino Up at 6:45 to get to the rental car place by 8:00. Waited in the

eateries. Sad that it was so hard to get an unencumbered view

room for our ride, enjoying the view of a row of Zishing boats

of what would be dramatic scenery, for all the crappy building

lined up in the harbor. Rode to the airport and picked up a

that lined the shore. Countless resorts have sprung up all

Honda Civic; on the road by 9:00, heading south on Highway

along the road. About 5:00, turned in at the Wickaninnish Inn

19 along the eastern coast of Vancouver Island. Extensive

sign and all of the tackiness immediately dropped away. The

evidence of clear cutting, and road signs to look out for

inn, a Relais et Chateau, is beautifully tucked away into the

lumber trucks as well as elk. Stopped for breakfast at Kawasa

rain forest at the edge of the beach. Our room overlooked the

CafĂŠ in Woss, on the side of a gas station; hearty beef hash

ocean, with large French doors to a private balcony, a cozy

cooked fresh by a smiling young woman with pink cheeks.

Zireplace and a large Jacuzzi. Took a walk along the private

The drive took us through spruce-covered mountains and

beach, climbing on the weather-beaten rocks and watching a

numerous lakes. At Campbell River, picked up the Oceanside

couple of sandpipers poke about in the shiny sand left by

Route but gave up at Courtenay since it was slow and not very

receding waves. Took photos of seaweed and other Zlotsam

picturesque, getting back on 19. At 2:00, turned off onto

that had washed up artistically in the sand. Dinner at the

Highway 4, cutting through the center of the island through

Pointe; resembling a tree house, it is surrounded by glass

Port Alberni to ToZino on the west coast. The road became

windows where we watched the sunset and sipped our

narrow and winding as it took us through PaciZic Rim

drinks. Our four-course tasting menu, accompanied by perfect

National Park. Nearing ToZino, gassed up before going on into

wines, was slow and leisurely. Later, tried out the Jacuzzi,

town. At Zirst glance, obvious that surZing is big around there.

using the fragrant bath salts. A really perfect evening.

Town was pretty tarted up with surf shops and cheap

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Monday, September 28 Vancouver I woke in the night to Zind the moonlight magically

must be one of the most beautiful settings of any major

streaming across the water. In the morning, greeted with

city. Got off on Georgia Street, less than two blocks from

the sound of the waves beneath our balcony. Luxurious

the Wedgewood, another Relais hotel, on Hornby. Had

shower with sensuous amenities and Zluffy towels. On the

been able to take advantage of a special 25th anniversary

road at 8:30, retracing our way to the east coast of the

promotion, which resulted in a 25% discount on any hotel

island. Quick breakfast at Tom Horton’s in Port Alberni

expenditure. Lovely place, lovely room—with a soaking

and then back on Highway 19 S to Nanaimo. Dropped off

tub located opposite the bed! Decided to stay in and enjoy

the car; decided it would be easier and cheaper not to

the attractive bar, voted as the best in Vancouver in

take it across on the ferry. At 12:30, boarded the BC Ferry

Vancouver Magazine. Dark wood paneling, a bar

Queen of Oak Bay for the hour and forty minute trip to

glistening with intriguing bottles, a warm and convivial

Horseshoe Bay at Vancouver. Opted for the bus into town,

atmosphere. Deterred from leaving our comfy spot by the

avoiding the cost of a long taxi ride. Struggled on with our

people walking past the windows with umbrellas, decided

bags, joining other ferry travelers for the precipitous

to stay for dinner at the adjoining restaurant. Last chance

drive along the slopes of West Vancouver, as our driver

for PaciZic Northwest seafood, served with delicate

whizzed by hedges and houses and some very steep

vegetables. Homemade coffee ice cream was not to be

drops. Crossing Lion’s Gate Bridge, I could not help but

missed either.

notice how many unattractive buildings dominate what

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Tuesday, September 29 Vancouver

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Relaxed and slept in on a grey morning, the last day of our

beautifully haunting. Quick visit to Hudson’s Bay

trip. Breakfast buffet at the bar; why is yoghurt so much

Company to buy some Vancouver 2010 Olympics

better in Canada? Walked to the Vancouver Museum of

souvenirs for the kids. Bus to Granville Island; the sun

Art in a pounding rain. Gulped at the $19.50 each

came out just as we got there. Walked through the

admission with half the museum closed for the

market; fun to see the displays of fresh Zish, fruits, bakery

installation of new exhibits. Most interesting to us was a

goods, coffee, chocolates—anything that can be eaten, and

collection of sketches and paintings by the Canadian

all beautiful to look at. Found the Silk Weaving Gallery

“Group of Seven,” founders of Canadian art who formed a

again. Owner Diana greeted us; I bought another of her

brotherhood in 1920. The group included Arthur Lismer

lovely hand woven silk scarves. After a Granville Brewing

(1885-1969), A.Y. Jackson (1882-1974), Francis Hans

Company beer at Cats, taxi to Vij’s. Had loved this stylized

Johnson (1888-1949), Franklin Carmichael (1890-1945),

Indian restaurant when we were here last time; were not

J.E.H. MacDonald (1873-1932), Frederick Horsman Varley

disappointed, even though we would have liked more

(1881-1969), and our favorite, Lawren Stewart Harris

heat. Early dinner meant early back to the hotel; a relaxed

(1885-1970). Also enjoyed an exhibit of works by Emily

evening in our comfortable room, getting organized for

Carr, whose interpretations of First Nation themes were

the trip home tomorrow.

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Wednesday, September 30 Chicago Alarm got us up at 6:30. Walked a short three blocks to catch the Trans-Link train to the airport: clean and new and only a 30-minute trip. A bit confusing, as we went through US Customs on the Vancouver end; after security, entered a big room with the sign, “Welcome to the United States.� Does make things a lot easier coming home though. First, Horizon Air 2267, a 40-minute prop run to Seattle. Killed time until our American Airlines 878 Zlight for Chicago took off at 2:40. With the two-hour time difference, were easily back home at 1320 by 9:30.

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Impressions of Alaska Absence of polluting billboards Attention to conservation, especially water and recycling Willingness of people to help Love and appreciation for their Alaska Adherence to speed limits Drive-through coffee shops everywhere Suction toilets that almost carry you away Most vehicles on the road seem to be pulling something, or at least have a giant hitch.

Drivers are directed to use headlights all the time, day and night.

Guns are a part of life; virtually every road sign has been shot out and there are numerous signs instructing that there is to be no shooting from the road or at airports, etc.

Most men seem to prefer facial hair of some sort.

No one complains about the weather or seems to particularly notice it.

Everyone has a story of why or how they came to Alaska; most seem to have come either to Zind something or to lose something.

The place of guns in Alaska ...

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Alaska and the Inside Passage Itinerary September 6-30, 2009

Sunday

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Depart CHICAGO, ORD, Terminal 3 (non-stop) on Alaska Airlines Flight 139 (Boeing 737-800) at 09:30 Arrive Anchorage, ANC, at 13:23 (13:20).

A-1 Car Rental: 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe (138,055 miles on odometer) Glenn Highway; Parks Highway; Palmer: Alaska State Fair, Musk Ox Farm; Wasilla; Talkeetna: Talkeetna Air Taxi around Denali (pilot: Danielle) Dinner: Twister Creek: Talkeetna Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge Milepost 12.5 Talkeetna Spur Road TALKEETNA sunny 140 miles

Monday 7 Talkeetna; Parks Highway; Denali: Visitor Center, Fairbanks: University of Alaska Museum of the North, Pioneer Park; Healy Breakfast: Talkeetna Roadhouse Dinner: Earth Song Lodge/ Henry’s Coffee House Earth Song Lodge: Standard cabin Mile 4, Stampede Road HEALY sunny 424 miles Tuesday 8 Breakfast: Henry’s Coffee House Activities: Denali National Park: shuttle bus (driver: Mike Reifel) to Wonder Lake and Kantishna: Quigley cabin; depart 08:30, return: 20:40 (184 miles in Park) Dinner: Totem Inn (Healy) Earth Song Lodge HEALY sunny 39 miles

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Wednesday 9 Breakfast: Henry’s Coffee House Parks Highway; Denali Highway: change Zlat; Richardson Highway; Glennallen; Chitina; Edgerton Highway; McCarthy Road: Kuskulana Bridge, Gilahina Bridge; Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, McCarthy Dinner: Golden Saloon Ma Johnson’s Hotel: Double room, common bath Downtown McCarthy McCARTHY overcast 396 miles Thursday 10 Breakfast: McCarthy Lodge Activities: Kennicott: Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark; Mill Tour (guide: Kate Schousen) Lunch: Kennicott Glacier Lodge Dinner and drinks: Golden Saloon and McCarthy Lodge (Snout to Tail dinner) Ma Johnson’s Hotel McCARTHY overcast Friday 11 Breakfast: McCarthy Lodge Activities: Wrangell Mountain Air around Mount Blackburn, Kennicott Glacier and Bagley IceZield (pilot: Bill McKinney) Richardson Highway; Glenn Highway: Chugach Mountains Dinner: Sheep Mountain Lodge Sheep Mountain Lodge Mile 113, Glenn Highway SUTTON overcast 211 miles Saturday 12 Breakfast: Sheep Mountain Lodge Glenn Highway: Anchorage; Seward Highway: Moose Pass; Seward Dinner: The Salmon Bake Hotel Seward: suite 221 5th Avenue SEWARD overcast and rain

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256 miles

Sunday 13 Breakfast: Bakery at the Harbor Kenai Fjords Tours: Kenai Fjords National Park: depart 11:30, return 17:30 Dinner: The Salmon Bake (Seward Arts Council BeneZit) Drinks: Yukon Bar: Stupid Tourist Night with Hobo Jim Hotel Seward SEWARD rain, overcast and sun 8 miles Monday 14 Breakfast: Bakery at the Harbor Seward Highway; Sterling Highway; Soldotna; Ninilchuk: Russian Orthodox Church; Homer: Homer Spit Drinks: Salty Dawg Dinner: Captain Pattie’s Fish Restaurant Land’s End Resort 4786 Homer Spit Road HOMER overcast and sunny 205 miles Tuesday 15 Breakfast: Two Sisters Bakery Homer: Pratt Museum, East End Road, Kachemak Bay Dinner: The Homestead Land’s End Resort HOMER sunny

92 miles

Wednesday 16 Breakfast: Duncan House Diner: Homer Sterling Highway; Seward Highway; Anchorage Return rental car: 2,022 miles total Lunch: Quiznos at airport Sites: Soldatna Hospital in Anchorage Depart Anchorage, ANC, on Alaska Airlines Flight 66 (Boeing 737-400) at 15:28 (16:00) (2-stops: Cordova 16:30, Yakutat 18:00) arrive Juneau, JNU at 19:18 (19:30) Dinner: Hangar at the Harbor (Bartlett Regional Hospital ER: 21:30 to 23:45: Dr. Alan McPherson) Historic Silverbow Inn 120 Second Street JUNEAU sunny, overcast and rain 243 miles

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Thursday 17 Breakfast: FVF Fairweather cafeteria Depart Juneau: Alaska State Ferry on FVF Fairweather: scheduled 08:00, rescheduled 09:00; arrive Haines at 11:10; Arrive Skagway: scheduled 11:30; rescheduled 12:45 (13:20) Skagway: Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park, Arctic Brotherhood Hall Dinner: StarZire Historic Skagway Inn: Hattie’s Room Corner of Broadway and 7th Avenue SKAGWAY overcast Friday 18 Breakfast: Historic Skagway Inn Depart Skagway at 12:00 (12:05) on Alaska State Ferry on FVF Fairweather Arrive Juneau at 15:30 (16:30) Dinner: Hangar at the Harbor Alaska’s Capital Inn: Harry’s Room 113 West Fifth Street JUNEAU overcast and drizzle Saturday 19 Depart Juneau: Alaska State Ferry on FVF Fairweather at 07:30 (07:45) arrive Sitka at 12:00 (12:00); Breakfast: FVF Fairweather cafeteria Sitka: Russian Bishop’s House, Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sheldon Jackson Fish Hatchery, Sitka National Historic Park, Totem Trail Drinks: Ernie’s Old Time Saloon Dinner: Ludvig’s Bistro Shee Atika Totem Square Inn (866/300-1353); continental breakfast included; Reservation 26900 201 Katlian St SITKA overcast Sunday 20 Breakfast: Shee Atika Totem Square Inn Sites: Russian Bishop’s House tour, Sheldon Jackson Museum, St. Michael’s Cathedral Lunch: Little Tokyo Shee Atika Totem Square Inn SITKA overcast 70

Monday 21 Breakfast: Shee Atika Totem Square Inn Coffee with Tom Climo Depart Sitka: Alaska State Ferry on FVF Fairweather at 13:30 (13:30), Arrive Juneau at 18:00 (17:55) Dinner: Zen Alaska’s Capital Inn, Harry’s Room 113 West Fifth Street JUNEAU overcast, then drizzle Tuesday 22 Breakfast: Alaska’s Capital Inn Juneau: Juneau-Douglas Museum, Alaska State Museum, South Franklin Street Historic District, Mount Roberts Tramway Lunch: Pel Meni Depart Juneau: Alaska State Ferry on M/V Taku at 18:15 (21:00), cabin 15B Dinner: M/V Taku cafeteria EN ROUTE rain, then overcast Wednesday 23 Breakfast: M/V Taku cafeteria Kake (03;30); Petersburg (07:50); Wrangell (11:55): Petroglyph Beach, taxi: Connie; Wrangell Narrows Arrive Ketchikan at 17:00 (19:10) Dinner: Pioneer Cafe New York Hotel: Star Room 207 Stedman Street KETCHIKAN overcast, rain Thursday 24 Breakfast: Ketchikan Coffee Company Ketchikan: Creek Street, Totem Heritage Center, Raptor Center and Fish Hatchery, Southeast Alaska Discovery Center, Lunch: Annabelle’s Dinner: Cape Fox Lodge New York Hotel: Star Room KETCHIKAN overcast

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Friday 25 Breakfast: Pioneer Cafe Ketchikan: Creek Street Dinner: Ketchikan Coffee Company Depart Ketchikan: Alaska State Ferry on M/V Matanuska at 21:45, Cabin 15B EN ROUTE overcast and drizzle Saturday 26 Arrive Prince Rupert 05:20 (05:15 PST) Breakfast: M/V Northern Expedition: Canoe Cafeteria Depart Prince Rupert: BC Ferries on M/V Northern Expedition (Aurora Section) at 07:30 Arrive Port Hardy 22:30 (22:30) Dinner: M/V Northern Expedition: Vista Restaurant Glen Lyon Inn (877/949-7115) 6435 Hardy Bay Road PORT HARDY rain early, then sunny Sunday 27 Breakfast: Kawasa CafĂŠ, Woss National Tilden Car Rental at airport: Honda Civic Woss, Campbell River, Courtenay, Qualicum Beach, Port Alberni, Long Beach Dinner: Pointe Restaurant The Wickaninnish Inn 500 Osprey Lane TOFINO sunny 520 ks/325 miles Monday 28 Breakfast: Tim Horton, Port Alberni Return Car: Nanaimo Depart Nanaimo: BC Ferries on M/V Queen of Oak Bay at 12:50 (12:30) to Arrive Horseshoe Bay at 14:35 (14:10) Vancouver Dinner: Bacchus at Wedgewood Hotel Wedgewood Hotel 845 Hornby Street VANCOUVER overcast 201 ks/125 miles BC Total: 721 ks/451 miles

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Tuesday 29 Breakfast: Bacchus Vancouver: Art Gallery of Vancouver, Granville Island Drinks: Cat Social Club Dinner: Vij’s Restaurant Wedgewood Hotel VANCOUVER rain early, then sunny Wednesday 30 Breakfast: Vancouver airport Depart: Vancouver, YVR, on Alaskan Airlines Flight 2267 (Bombardier Q400) at 10:30 Arrive Seattle, SEA, at 11:25 (11:25) Lunch: Africa Lounge at Sea-Tac airport Depart: Seattle, SEA, on American Airlines Flight 878 at 14:35 (M80) Arrive: Chicago, ORD, at 20:30 (20:40) CHICAGO sunny Trip Total: 2,472 miles

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Faces of Alaska

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Trip Facts 2020 miles driven in Alaska 600 miles driven in BC 8 ferries 2 Zlightseeing tours 6 commercial Zlights 4 National Parks visited: Denali, Wrangall-St. Elias, Kenai Fjords, PaciZic Rim 3 National Sites visited: Kennecott, Klondike (Skagway), Sitka 2 visits to the ER 1 Zlat tire 1 DUI/sobriety test (passed) 1 request (exercised) to pound on the back of the ofZicial Balladeer of Alaska 77

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Route Traveled by Vehicle

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Route Traveled by Ferry

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Volume 2