2008 Mexico & Guatemala 2

2008 Mexico and Guatemala 2

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip to Mexico and Guatemala from March 5-17, 2008. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2008. V. 2 Cover: Palenque from the Templo de la

Cruz

Mexico & Guatemala March 5-April 1, 2008

A continuation of our trip in Mexico and Guatemala, dipping into Honduras to see Copan, with an emphasis on Mayan culture.

Volume 2 March 16-April 1

Sunday, March 16 San Cristobal de las Casas gave us an introduction. We entered the church amid clouds of incense, and saw for ourselves how the pagan rites of the Maya merged magically with the Catholic religion. Statues of saints, covered with adornments and mirrors lined the walls. Worshippers knelt before the saint of their choice, burning candles on low platforms. The presence of Coke was everywhere, as supplicants drank from small cups as part of their ritual. Alberto explained that the people believe that the gas caused by the its ingestion helps to expel evil from the body.

Leaving the church, walked through the market set up outside. It was obvious that the villagers are very private and do not care for visitors. We tried to be respectful but heard some hisses nonetheless. Jake could not even photograph a large pineapple he admired. We understood how they felt, though, when we saw other tourists abusively snapping pictures. Alberto took us to the cemetery on the edge of town where we saw a field of colored wooden crosses: black for “elders” (over 52), green for those 18 and older, white for children. Saw a small funeral in progress in the distance.

Nice breakfast of fruit, fresh juice, eggs and lean Mexican bacon before joining eight others for a tour of two villages in the hills outside San Cristobal. Alberto, our guide, obviously enjoyed the tinny rock music incongruously playing on the radio as we took the ten-mile winding road to San Juan Chamula. He parked and walked us along a newly paved strip of road through the village (the cement marked by tiny human feet and goat and chicken prints—life obviously went on while the pavement dried.) Alberto told us about the customs and beliefs of the Tzotzil people who inhabit the village. The carved crosses painted bright teal that we saw represent more than the Christian faith: they signify the Mayan intersection of the cosmic roads—the vertical as the zenith to the center of the earth and the horizontal as the way of the sun from east to west. He pointed out adobe and mud houses that have been made in the same way for centuries; and incongruously, beside each door, cases of Coca-Cola. At the Templo de San Juan Bautista, Alberto asked us to put away our cameras and

San Juan Chamula

Templo de San Juan Bautista

Made a swing into San Lorenzo Zinancantan, another Tzotzil village where we stopped at a textile cooperative. Demonstrations of weaving and tortilla-making but a little touristy. Back into town—got off at the Zocalo. Bought Cokes and sat on a bench in the warm sun. At 4:00 taxied to Na Bolom, the 1891 home of archeologist Franz Blom and his wife, Trudi. Joined a tour given by Pepe, who explained the Bloms’ work with the Lacandons, perhaps the most isolated of the Mexican indigenous people. Back at the B&B, discovered that Bill and Claudine Rose, who we met on the trip to Chamula, had just checked in. Joined them for drinks and dinner at Los Barrios where we shared fajitas and freshly made tortillas to the sounds of a marimba band.

Monday, March 17 to Palenque Our rental car appeared at the door at 7:00. After receiving detailed instructions, we drove away. Ten seconds later, a buzzer went off.

Of course, the agent had disappeared. Many expletives until we realized that the emergency brake was on. Didn’t leave us with any gas either, so had to stop at a PeMex on the way out of town.

Were told that our dinky VW Derby needed premium. Doubted it but afraid not to oblige. Also quickly discovered that the AC was little more than a fan. Out on the road, lots of topes—speed bumps that one cannot ignore. Really slows things down. Had a couple of surprises when they just appeared in the middle of a straight-away with no warning. Turned on highway 186 towards Ocosenco.

Pleasant scenery—pine trees and rounded hills—lots of burning in the fields and clouds hovering over the villages. Learned that the warning “curva peligrosa” would inevitably be followed by a tope.

Slow going for the 110 kilometers to the late classic Mayan site, Tonina, but arrived at 9:45. Museum closed on Mondays. Did a lot of climbing to get to the fifth level to see the Mural de las Cuatro Eras. Only discovered in 1992, it dates from around 800 AD and features a smiling skeleton whose hands hold the decapitated head of a Maya warrior. Descending, I thought I would be clever and scoot down on my bottom, but was rewarded with a seat full of prickers. Stopped for a drink at the stand at the base before starting the hot walk back to the car. Continued towards Agua Azul.

Stopped by the police for very cursory drug inspection which accomplished nothing more than giving all the slow trucks we had maneuvered past the chance to rumble by. At this point, started to encounter the dropped rope trick, where groups of (mainly) children try to get cars to stop so they can sell corn, bananas or peeled oranges. By moving close behind vehicles in front of us, were able to avoid the ropes.

Tonina

Arrived at Agua Azul about 1:30, joining a large number of cars. Found all sorts of people enjoying the impressive falls and the turquoise water. Lots of food and souvenir stalls. Stayed no longer than 20 minutes. In spite of the large numbers of people in the water, our guide book warned of the dangerous currents, saying that the posted English sign, “Dangerous not to swim� was a grammatical error and not a joke.

Reached Palenque at 3:30. Made several stops, trying to find the ticket booth. Wanted to make a short visit to take pictures in the afternoon light with the idea of returning in the morning. Since Jake’s visit 25 years ago, the site has been transformed into a lovely park-like setting and the passage to Pakal’s Tomb has been made far more accessible. Many more visitors than we have seen at other sites so far. Oppressively hot and still in the baking sun.

Back to the car after buying a chilled coconut with a straw. At 50 pesos ($5) it was no bargain. Stayed nearby at the Chan-Kah Resort, about two kilometers from the ruins.

Ushered to our room by a “bellboy” driving a three-wheel bicycle and carrying our bags.

Promptly left our room for the restaurant across the road to have drinks and dinner overlooking the pool. Returned to our room early to cool off, only to discover that the air conditioning was defective.

Palenque

A UNESCO Site

Tuesday, March 18 Yaxchilan, Bonampak, and Palenque On the road by 6:30; filled the tank and got on the Carretera Fronteriza, the excellent road that runs parallel to the Mexico-Guatemala border. Drove through a wide valley surrounded by tall, green-covered hills. Topes continued to pop up with little warning. Small villages lined the road—simple block houses and thatchedroof huts, chickens and children taking advantage of cars slowing at each tope to hopefully wave corn or other vegetables in plastic bags. Arrived at Frontera Echeverrica (Corozal) and the launch for Yaxchilan at 9:00, having traveled 173 kilometers. Almost the first ones there. A series of tickets to be purchased: parking, boat, site. When we bought our tickets for the lancha, Domingo Mayo, our skipper, got into the car and directed us to a parking place. He ushered us down a ramp to the boat launch on the Rio Usumacinta, the swift, broad river that divides Guatemala and Mexico. Climbed aboard the long and narrow wooden boat for the 22kilometer trip to the ruins. Arrived 30 minutes later and climbed the steep concrete steps to the site. There we entered the jungle—spider monkeys swung from the branches over our heads as we walked over gnarled tree roots and packed leaves. Entered the ancient city through an underground passageway and up a narrow stairway. I was enchanted. Climbed the structure known as Edificio 33 at the top of a tall hill. Photographed the magnificent carved lintels. Two hours later, Domingo carried us back to the launch site and we were soon on our way again.

Yaxchilan

Two hours later, Domingo carried us back to the launch site and we were soon on our way again. Drove on to Bonampak, also in the lush Lacandon jungle.

Smaller—and hotter—than Yaxchilan. This time had to park and catch a ride in one of the dilapidated vehicles that the neighboring villagers insisted we use. A hot ride on a dusty road, made worse as vehicles would pass coming the other way, necessitating a scramble to roll up the windows. Most important at Bonampak are the beautiful lintels and murals of fierce battles that are preserved in the Templo de las Pinturas. Decided to climb no further but explored the four buildings that overlook the Great Plaza below. Another dusty ride back to the car, this time with Bor, an old Lacandon with long grey and black hair who asked Jake in Spanish how much his watch cost. Drove back to Palenque, getting to the Chan-Kah at 5:00. I jumped into the shower and Jake jumped into the pool. Felt great while it lasted but we were hot and sweaty again as soon as we emerged. Jake almost stepped on a giant iguana as he made his way back from the pool. Dinner buffet and margaritas on the pleasant terrace but it was stifling; noticed that the trees looked as if they were made of concrete as not a leaf was stirring. Early night back with the AC.

Bonampak

Wednesday, March 19 San Cristobal de las Casas Hotel breakfast on the terrace—nice assortment, from tortilla pie and fried plantains to cornflakes and Coco Puffs, and lots of lovely fruits.

Stayed away from the bread after a member of a German tour group fingered all the rolls in the basket and decided he didn’t want any.

Palenque opens at 8:00; we arrived soon after and found a huge line to buy tickets. Saw the Roses about three from the front and they were good enough to buy our tickets for us, saving us at least an hour’s wait. A good decision to see the ruins in the afternoon as well as the morning— made for great pictures of the major buildings. Climbed lots of steps—I went all the way up the Templo de la Cruz, the site’s tallest structure, for an incredible view of the Templo del Sol, Templo de las Inscriptiones and El Palacio. Jake did not go up but took a picture of me at the top. Circled past the northern group of five buildings and headed out. Short drive to the waterfall at Misol-Ha where we stayed just long enough to see the dramatic falls plunging into a conifer-shaded crystal lagoon. Departed at 11:30 for the drive back to San Cristobal. Although we passed several groups of children holding string across the road and waving their bags of peeled oranges and pineapple spears, did not encounter any Zapatistas extracting payments, much to Jake’s disappointment. Back in San Cristobal by 3:30 although we had a time finding the Casa Flores again. After a couple of errands and a rest—or at least a shower—taxied to Na Bolom for dinner at the long communal table in the cozy dining room. Arrived early and Pepe, our guide from our previous visit, encouraged us to see the 15-minute film about the Bloms and their work that we had missed earlier. A Dutch group joined us for the simple, healthful meal of chicken, squash and avocados. I sat next to Hetty Abma of Heerenbeen and Jake sat with Aly—both interesting single, middle-aged women who were part of the group. Fun and laughter made a very pleasant evening. Taxi back to the B&B where we packed for our drive to Guatemala in the morning.

Misol-Ha

Na Bolom

Thursday, March 20 to Antigua, Guatemala Arranged for a van to pick us up at the Casa Flores between 7:00 and 7:30 for

Jake by the driver and me in the back next to a young German man from

the trip to Antigua. Disappointed when a dilapidated Suburban showed up

Munich who loved Central America better than anywhere else in the world.

with worn seats and no seat belts. Fortunately we were the first pick-up and

This last leg lasted about two hours, taking us on a different road with

had our choice, changing once before anyone else got in. Further disappointed

precipitous curves. The driver had the radio at full blast, tuned to a football

to learn there were to be 10 of us. Picked up a group of five backpackers from

game. Staccato pronouncements would continue for some minutes,

the UK. Then got two men from Holland. The 10th never showed although

periodically broken by something like, “sooooo-ahhhhh,” when a goal was

the driver went back three times to find him. The two Dutchmen had to sit

made. I detected that the driver’s team was not winning. Our journey was

on the tiny jump seats as it was. Turned out to be a good-natured group. The

slowed by several stops for one woman to get out and throw up.

driver pulled into a restaurant adjacent to a gas station at 11:00 for a breakfast break and we chatted with our companions, Pippa, Lucy, and Kate, three friends from Durham University in England who were on a three-month gap year adventure. The other two Brits had been traveling for nine months of a year-long trip through Africa and South America. An hour and a half later, arrived at the border at Ciudad Cuauhtémoc. Stopped on the Mexican side to have our passports stamped by a grim-looking official. As we loaded back into the van for the last three kilometers of the Mexican leg of the trip, a group of costumed children wearing masks clustered around us holding up their index fingers which apparently means something like “give us money.” At the border terminus we unloaded our gear and entered a small building to have our passports stamped in Guatemala and pay 20 pesos each. As soon as we crossed into Guatemala the scenery became significantly more dramatic: high green hills dropping to deep gorges. Frequent speed bumps, now called tumulos. Cluttered villages and lots of people along the road. Hours later we came to a fork in the road—one way to Antigua and the other to Panajachal and Lake Atitlan. We were hoping to go directly to Antigua but this was not to be. A steep and winding road took us down to the lake, a conspicuously incongruous high-rise hotel complex blighting the view of the “Atitlan Riviera.”

Rode on into town at 5:30 where, on a narrow street crowded with shops and people, we once more unloaded our bags from the roof and reloaded them onto a third bus, this one, a 20-seater. We got the last two seats, with

We arrived in Antigua after 8:00, in the dark. The roads into town were closed

so we had a great view of everything. The route was lined with young men

for the start of Semana Santa and the driver dropped us off as close as he was

dressed in purple robes. Huge wooden platforms with Jesus and Mary and the

able. Made our way for several blocks though the masses of people assembled

risen Christ swayed with the gait of the bent bodies that carried the weight on

to watch the processions, dragging our luggage and trying not to roll our bags

their shoulders. The platform bearing Mary was carried entirely by women and I

over people’s toes. Found the Convento Santa Catarina Martir just at the

could see the agony and ecstasy on their faces. They were accompanied by

wrong time, as the procession had stopped directly in front of the hotel.

bands and drummers who struck a somber cadence. Followed the procession

Struggled to make our way around Pontius Pilate and the guards on horseback

around the square and watched as it ended at the cathedral, with all assembled

without getting kicked as we inched by the horses. Found the front door and

reciting, “Hail Mary, full of grace….” The moon was a perfect disk over the

checked in. Had to say that our room was authentic, resembling a convent cell.

church and the crowd seemed to hold an equal number of lighted candles and

Happy to be there just the same. Immediately grabbed our cameras and joined

cameras. Afterwards we shared a simple dinner of local foods at Fonda de la

the crowds. The procession passed under the arch directly in front of the hotel

Calle Real before returning to our cell for bed. It had been quite a day.

Antigua

A UNESCO Site

Friday, March 21 Antigua

Good Friday

A beautiful morning. Bells of the convent woke us and we quickly dressed and had breakfast along the cloisters, pancakes and a pleasant breeze blowing. Set out towards the Plaza Mayor where we saw groups making carpets of brightly-colored sawdust in the cobblestone streets. Using stencils, they filled the holes with contrasting colors and flowers.

We joined many visitors at the cathedral to get a closer view of the plaster figures that will be carried later. On the wooden platforms, we noted the numbered slots for those who carry them. Were told that those who volunteer are arranged by height so that all of similar stature carry at the same time.

Wandered into the ruins of the previous cathedral structure that was destroyed in the 1773 earthquake. Beautiful angel carvings remain at the base of what had once been the dome.

Saw processions from various churches and more sawdust carpets along the streets. The bells of ice cream vendors offered pleasant and somehow appropriate background music. Families gathered on the greens to eat and talk together while tourists documented it all with their cameras.

Walked though the Mercado de Artesanas and were impressed with the array of textiles and crafts. At the Iglesia de la Merced, saw food vendors whose displays looked tempting beneath the church’s ivy-carved Baroque façade.

The Ex-Convento de Capuchinas was a large complex before the earthquake but is now a ruin in an attractive garden; we watched a family playing hide and seek among the stones. Walked through the Museo de Arte Colonial in the courtyard of the former University of San Carlos de Borromeo. Series of attractive courtyards with local paintings and examples of textiles, crafts, and colonial art. Merged into the grounds of the magnificent Hotel Casa Santa Domingo. Walked the grounds and gardens and made reservations for our last night in Antigua. Purchased a painting by indigenous artist Matias Gonzalez Chavajay for a most reasonable price. They took it right off the stretcher and rolled it up—sure hope we can do something with it when we get home.

Returned to the Plaza Mayor to await the arrival of the Good Friday procession.

Watched with a large crowd as the massive platforms depicting the Crucifixion were hoisted up the steps and into the cathedral. Afterwards, we adjourned to pizza and Mozas at El Sabor del Tiempo, just down from our hotel.

Saturday, March 22 to Chichicastenango

The processions continued through the night. Woke up enough to hear drums and cymbals at 10:30 PM and 3:00 AM but not enough to get up and investigate. Hope we didn’t miss too much. After breakfast, checked out of the hotel, leaving our bags and taking only our backpacks for the one night we will be in Chichicastenango. Walked up to Elizabeth Bell’s travel agency near the Casa Santo Domingo.

In contrast to the previous days, the streets were practically deserted and little evidence remained of yesterday’s processions or last night’s revelry. The only trace of the colorful carpets was an occasional sprinkling of sawdust in the cracks between the stones. Made arrangements with Elizabeth for travel to Chichi later in the day, and for airport transfers and an Antigua tour on Thursday. Upon her recommendation, made reservations at Hedman-Alas agency for bus transportation to Copan. Visited the Casa des Artes, recommended by Chicago friend Doug Dawson, and met the owner, his old friend Desiree. She showed us beautiful older textiles from her colorful collection. Made some preliminary choices and will return later this week to further investigate.

At 2:00 a van picked us up at our hotel and we joined seven others for the two-hour drive to Chichicastenango. Pretty scenery —lush vegetation and high hills—but a bumpy road with steep switchbacks as we neared the village. Evidence of road work although no one was working on this holiday weekend. It will be a fine road once it is finished, but that looks to be no time soon.

Checked into the Mayan Inn, dating from the 1930s when travel was civilized—colonial buildings with the patina of old wood.

Beautiful gardens of poinsettias, papyrus, orchids, and bougainvillea.

Our room is in the oldest building and has a big bed, fireplace and antiques. Explored our surroundings, walking to Santo Tomas church and up the old steps used for rituals and bearing some resemblance to the steps of the Mayan pyramids. The interior reminded me of the church in Chamula. Apparently, the beliefs of the people here lie somewhere between those of Chamula and those of the Catholic Church. Statues, mirrors, candles, and incense were evident, but no Coca-Cola. Continued through the market area and watched the people setting up for what is the biggest market in Guatemala: Chichi on Easter Sunday. Saw lots of textiles hanging out already, but nothing as lovely as the clothes they were wearing. Drinks and conversation later in the cozy bar at the hotel. Joined by Marily and David Howekamp from San Francisco who had driven up with us from Antigua. They are interesting independent travelers and we traded stories of places we’d been. Continued the conversation over dinner where we each had our own bearer—ours was Jorge—dressed in colorful red and black costumes evolved from the dress of Spanish colonial farmers.

Sunday, March 23 to Antigua

Easter together with a rhythmic, pitty-pat sound. People were starting to gather around low wooden tables to eat. Walked through the vegetable market, noting the predominance of cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions. Returned to the church just as the service had concluded and watched the procession of decorated religious statues moved from the church, down the steps and along the road.

Everyone was dressed in their beautiful costumes. Incense burned, bells rang, and loud firecrackers were set off. At the far end of the square, Fidel Funes and his marimba orchestra performed into massive speakers that thumped in one’s chest even from a distance. At noon we checked out and met Marily and David for lunch at the other major hotel in town, the San Tomas. Hopping with tour groups; were glad we had chosen the Mayan. Tried the chuchitos, a local specialty of cornmeal, turkey, and tomato sauce wrapped in a corn husk. Said good-by to our new friends and waited for our shuttle back to Antigua. After 20 minutes discovered it was a different outfit than we had expected. By that time

Heard roosters all night long. I thought they were supposed to sleep until early

the bus was full and we faced a dirty, bumpy, fume-filled ride back, sitting single

morning. Awoke finally at 6:00 to firecracker explosions. Joined Marily and David

file in those damnable jump seats. The two-hour trip took almost four and we

for breakfast and we set out for the church just before 8:00. It was a crisp,

were the last let off at the Santa Catarina in Antigua. Dinner at Bistro Cinq on

bright morning and the streets were filled with vendors. We entered the church

the street behind the cathedral, upon the recommendation of the Howekamps.

—this time, from the side, after learning that the steps are supposed to be off-

Steak frites, wine, and great service provided a needed antidote to the ride back

limits to outsiders—and stood in the back. The service was led by a priest who

from Chichi.

prayed from petitions written on scraps of paper. Behind the congregants who sat in the pews, others knelt before candles burning on platforms on the floor.

Incense filled the air and white lacy panels were draped from the ceiling. A lilting, melodic song was sung to the accompaniment of a small marimba. Left the service to walk the lanes of the market before it got too crowded. Flower sellers dressed in colorful weavings crowded the steps and created a lovely sight. Looked at the endless array of fabric, weavings, and embroidery for sale.

Booths with the blue and white ikat fabric that Chichi women use for skirts were everywhere. Other vendors sold the embroidered blouses and sashes that are also worn. Saw little girls busily making tortillas, clapping their hands

Monday, March 24 to Tikal get to the Plaza Central and a magical sight greeted us. Climbed Temple II (Temple of the Masks) on small, rickety wooden steps and had a glorious view of Temple I (Temple of the Great Jaguar) gleaming in the afternoon light. No one is allowed to climb the towering Temple I any more after several people fell to their deaths. Climbed the North Acropolis for more views of the Plaza and Temple I in glowing illumination and then climbed the Central Acropolis.

Sitting high atop, it was easy to let one’s imagination free. Walked back as the jungle was settling in for the night—heard birds, coyotes, and monkeys. At the hotel, signed up for the sunrise tour and had drinks at the bar before dinner.

Lights go on at 6:00PM and off again at 10:00 PM so we are taking advantage of the light for dinner, writing, and organizing.

Alarm off at 6:00—quick breakfast; the van picked us up at 7:20. Cleared town and followed a good road to Guatemala City before hitting the Monday morning rush. The starts and stops gave us a chance to look around. Lots of US companies—McDonalds, Pay Less Shoes, Hush Puppies, Avon. Virtually every business engulfed in security fences and armed guards were everywhere.

Got to the airport by 8:45. My heart sank to see that we would be flying in a prop, but the ATR-42 was not too small and the flight was fine, taking only 50 minutes to Flores. A van took us the bumpy one-hour ride to Tikal through lush low-lands with sugar cane growing in the fields. Checked into the Jungle Lodge next to the park. Had lunch before our room was ready at 3:00.

Donned sun block and bug spray and headed to the ruins. Getting tickets after 3:00 enabled us to use the same tickets tomorrow—a good thing, as they cost $25 each. Had a 30-mintue walk though the jungle to reach the site, on a path covered with tree roots. Could see monkeys overhead. Climbed the path to

Tikal

A UNESCO Site

Tuesday, March 25 to Antigua Slept surprisingly well, considering the generators went off at 10:00 PM and we were under mosquito netting—actually much more comfortable than we had anticipated. Alarm went off at 3:00 AM so that we could take an early morning trek though the rainforest to see the sunrise from Temple IV—70 meters high.

Intriguing to hike through the jungle in the dark; although there was moonlight we were glad we’d brought along our powerful little flashlights. Once we had climbed the wooden steps to the top of the temple, we were instructed by Venicio, our guide, to be silent and listen to the sounds of the jungle waking up.

Gazed out over the Grand Plaza with Temple III nearest us and Temples I and II across from each other, and watched the sky lighten and the sun come up. While we heard howler monkeys calling back and forth to each other with their raspy voices, and the song of toucans, the sounds that dominated our vigil were those of Homo Sapiens: talking, whispering, laughing, sneezing, coughing, the blowing of noses, the popping of soda cans, a cacophony of digital camera beeps, and as a crescendo, the loud ringing of a cell phone.

Tikal

At 6:30 AM, Venicio took us through the Mundo Perdido and explained how the Maya built temples over temples, up to five deep. He showed us the architectural work going on at the Plaza of Seven Temples, and at Temple V, he waited while several of us ascended a steep wooden ladder 60 meters for a view over the treetops of the Grand Plaza. Back at the lodge, we joined four others from our morning adventure for breakfast—Don and Charlene from Boston and Tachel and Michael from the UK and Sweden. Looked through the two Tikal museums where we saw artifacts discovered at the site. At 2:00 PM, caught the shuttle to Flores for our 4:00 flight back to Antigua. Plane 45 minutes late. Most thorough security check we’ve had on this trip—each compartment and container carefully opened and examined. Appeared to be the same ATR-42 we flew to Flores. Driver met us and took us back to Antigua by 7:30 PM. Dinner at Bistro Cinq again and early to bed as the alarm is set for 2:30 AM.

Wednesday, March 26 to Copan and Antigua Yup. 2:30 it was. Somehow managed to get ourselves up and ready for a 3:30 AM pick-up by a Hedman-Alas shuttle. The hotel staff assured us that they would be available to let us out but all was dark when we got to the front door. Figured out how to unlatch the gate and slipped out into the darkness. Quick trip back to Guatemala City where we switched to a luxury liner of a bus—reclining plush seats with foot rests. Add to that a catered Burger King breakfast and we thought we were flying First Class. Good thing, too—were both able to get some sleep during the five-hour trip into Honduras. At the border, paid a fee and traded with the gaggle of money changers that clustered around the bus for about $70 worth of Honduran lempira (at 7 to 1) to cover various costs associated with a visit to the Copan ruins. A motorcycle taxi with a heart on the windshield took us the short distance to the site.

Decided to engage a guide named Birgilly, a Maya who had worked there for 12 years. He took us around this outstanding example of Mayan achievement, leading us into the Rosalila and Jaguares tunnels that revealed structures and carvings of earlier buildings deep inside newer ones. As people have been living in the Copan valley since before 1400 BC, there was plenty of opportunity for later kings to come in and build their own temples upon foundations from earlier structures. These were only opened in 1999--can’t imagine how thrilling the discoveries of these tunnels must have been. Walked through the Grupo Principa in the midst of well-kept lawns and shady trees. In the Gran Plaza, we stopped in awe at the huge, intricately carved stelae, portraying the rulers of Copan. Climbed the flight of 63 steps of the Escalinata de los Jeroglificos that tells the story of Copan in the thousands of glyphs that adorn it. Went on up the lofty flight of steps to the Templo de las Inscriptiones. On top we found the walls carved with groups of inscriptions. The site and the carvings made our 14hour round trip worth it. Visited the museum where we saw the original famous Altar Q, that depicts, in beautiful relief detail, the 16 great kings of Copan. Our motorcycle taxi man was waiting for us and zipped us back to the bus depot. Comfortable ride back to Guatemala City—witnessed a most stunning—Biblical-looking— sunset over the volcano. Reached Antigua by 8:00 and had a chicken dinner in the cozy upstairs room at La Fonda de la Calle Real where we had eaten the first night in Antigua. Quick call to Chris to let the family know we were fine and then to our welcome bed.

Copan

A UNESCO Site

Thursday, March 27 Antigua Breakfast at 8:00, after which we walked to the Casa des Artes. This time, had plenty of time to review the items we had set aside and for Desiree to show us more of the things we liked. Learned so much just by looking and touching. She pulled more textiles out of her “treasure chest” as she called it. She demonstrated how the various pieces were used—how the Chichi women wrapped their skirts, how to tie up a bundle, how to carry and nurse a baby, how to wear a sash.

We re-assembled our previous choices, discarded one and added two more. They will be packed up and delivered to our hotel. Also bought an interesting old lock, similar to ones we had noticed on the gates we’d passed. Stopped at a super-mercado to buy Mayan-Ik green and red habanero pepper sauce. Returned to Santa Catalina at noon, collected our things and checked out. A van took us to the Casa Santa Domingo, the former Dominican monastery that we had admired the other day and decided to enjoy for our last night in Antigua. Our lovely room had interesting rustic touches—old distressed door for a headboard, woven bed spread, fireplace, huge Jacuzzi, and a tiny balcony overlooking a fountain. At 2:00, met Elizabeth Bell’s Antigua walking tour at the fountain at the main plaza of town. Roberto, a Guatemalan whose principal job is a graphic designer, conducted the tour, showing us the government buildings and interiors of several buildings, including a library, a museum, a girls’ school, and a small hotel. All had common elements of a cloister surrounding a central courtyard and fountain. The three British girls we had traveled with from San Cristobal were also part of our small group. Fun to see them again—exchanged emails. When the tour reached the Casa Santo Domingo, we parted and made our way to the bar to begin working on some margaritas. Dinner at 8:00 in the lush Refectorio. My award-winning pumpkin-stuffed ravioli was really delicious. Strolling musicians. Desiree and her grandson delivered our textiles to the table.

Antigua

A UNESCO Site

Friday, March 28 to Chichen Itza Elizabeth Bell’s driver, Miguel, picked us up at 6:15 for the drive to Guatemala City airport. He took us down unfamiliar streets in a futile attempt to avoid the traffic.

It would be impossible, we decided, to negotiate the streets of Guatemala City on our own. The hills and gorges around which the city has grown have resulted in a rabbit-warren of roads that merge and diverge and run over and under each other. Boarded the ATR-42 turbo-prop again for the same TACA flight, this time continuing from Flores on to Cancun. Arrived about 45 minutes late after descending to 3000 feet and aborting the landing. Spent 45 minutes going through immigration and baggage inspection and another 45 minutes securing our Dodge Attitude from Hertz. Had a time locating the toll road west toward Merida. Had hoped to visit Ek’Balam (25 kilometers north of Valladolid) but time did not permit, as Mexican archeological sites close at 5:00 PM at this time of year.

Encountering the first rain of the trip and surmounting erroneous directions from the hotel’s website, we checked into Morley Room 4 at Hacienda Chichen Resort.

This is the same house that Sylvanus Morley occupied during his archeological research at Chichen in the 1930s. Before dinner I bought I necklace adorned with silver Maya glyphs and a scarf. Disregarding potential rain, we attended the sound and light show at the site performed beneath El Castillo pyramid. Heard the show in Spanish as the English translation was not available at the gate we entered. Returning to the Hacienda, had a late dinner featuring sopa de lima.

Chichen Itza

A UNESCO Site

Saturday, March 29 to Uxmal Arising early, we entered the Chichen Itza grounds by 8:15. Traversed El Castillo to the Gropodelas Mil Colomnas and the Cenote Sagrado. Saw the immense ball court with its circular goals imbedded in the wall. The grounds were groomed and the ruins well-restored, but this was not our favorite site. Departed just before 11 and checked out of the hotel. Had some problem finding a gas station before accessing the 180 D toll road, traveling west. Continued north another 25 kilometers to visit the “yellow� village of Izamal. Surmounting a huge Mayan temple foundation is the 16th century Convento de San Antonio de Padua, home of the Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal. Walked the central plaza, its buildings all painted the same shade of deep yellow. Back on the road, traversed several small towns attempting to follow the Ruta de los Conventos. Few road directions in towns made this a challenge. Photographed a typical 16th century church at Mama, with it’s high flat bell tower. Decided not to visit Mayapan and continued directly to Uxmal. Found the Hacienda Uxmal at around 4:15 and we both zonked, missing both the light show and dinner.

Izamal

Mama

16th century church with flat bell tower

Sunday, March 30 Uxmal Were first in line when the gates opened at Uxmal at 8:00. The ruins are set in the peaceful hills of the Puuc region, the only hilly area in the Yucatan. Entered the site and were met with the vision of the Casa del Advino (the Magician’s House). Climbed to the Palacio del Gobernador to get a closer look at its magnificent façade with stylized Chac-Mol faces and geometric, lattice-like designs, typical of the Puuc style. Left the site at 9:30, returning briefly to the hotel before following the Ruta Puuc, visiting four lesser, but interesting sites: Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak, and Labna. At Kabah, were particularly impressed with the façade of the Palacio de los Mescarones, covered with over 300 masks of Chac-Mol, the rain god or sky serpent. At Sayil, the most memorable building was the three-tiered El Palacio. Xlapak, a very small site, offered a pleasant walk through the forest to its one building, and at Labna, we particularly liked the decorated arch. Turning back towards Uxmal, drove slowly through the town of Santa Elena, pausing to photograph its pink church and several thatched-roof huts. Looking unsuccessfully for the Chac-Mol restaurant gave us a complete tour of this little village. Finally discovered that we had passed the restaurant on the main road when we first entered town. Had a pleasant meal featuring pibil pork and chicken, a Yucatan specialty. Returned to the hotel at 3:15 and adjourned to the pool, shaded by palms and bougainvillea.

Uxmal

A UNESCO Site

Uxmal

Kabah

Sayil

Xlapak

Labna

Santa Elena

Monday, March 31 to Tulum Prompt for the 7:00 breakfast buffet and away by 8:00.

Descended the Puuk hills into Muna where we gassed up and headed toward Merida in order to pick up the toll road again.

Fortunate to find well-marked roads that got us around Valladolid to Ek’Balam by 10:30. We found the site to be disappointing after all the other wonders we had seen. The major pyramid looked like a hacienda, with palm-covered shelters over the major sculptures. The huge jaguar mouth entrance, El Trono, was so heavily reconstructed that it looked like a Disney knockoff.

Ascended 2/3 of the way up the Acropolis, but decided that we needn’t go al the way to the top for a nice view. The steps sloped badly, and I somehow felt that my luck in climbing these structures was running out.

Ek’Balam

Again, explicit signs enabled us to avoid the cities and we arrived at Coba at 1:00. Very touristy--a tangle of tour groups, but a pleasant setting in the trees. Took a bicycle taxi to the far pyramid, but did not climb this one either.

Coba

Went on to Tulum; found it even more touristy at the entrance but once we took the dusty train ride to the site, we were enchanted by the ruins in their perfect setting on the turquoise waters of the Mayan Riviera. As the afternoon wore on, we checked the location of our small hotel, Mezzanine, and drove further south through the biosphere Sian Ka’an, 5000 square kilometers of tropical jungle, marsh, and islands on Quintana Roo’s coast that has been set aside as a World Heritage Site. Not too much to see from the road, but we did get some idea of the extent of the area. Surprised to see the amount of development along the way—hotels, restaurants, and shops, as well as construction vehicles making way for more. Returned to the hotel and checked into our ocean-view room.

Nice breeze but hot and sticky nonetheless. I prefer my sea view through a closed window. Put on our bathing suits and tested the water; then adjourned for drinks on the veranda overlooking the ocean. Dinner at the ThaiMex restaurant at the hotel. Showers and bed with the sound of the Atlantic in our ears. As long as I don’t think about my hair, quite lovely.

Tulum

Tuesday, April 1 Chicago Gentle awakening as the sky gradually brightened, the breeze keeping the humidity down a bit. An early start for the Cancun airport, not sure how long it would take. Lots of traffic and construction on what will be a multi-lane divided highway. Made good time anyway, passing golf-beach resorts, one after the other, with names like Secrets, Desires, Heaven, and Paradise on mammoth signs over gated entrances. Returned the car and got to the terminal by 9:30, only to learn that our American flight was delayed until 2:45 PM. Spent a long day watching hordes of Americans buying up souvenirs of their spring vacations in Cancun. Once we took off, a four-hour flight home and no jet-lag to work off this time.

Itinerary March 5-April 1, 2008 MARCH Wednesday 5

Depart: Chicago ORD, Aeromexico 683 (Boeing 757), 8:35 (on time) Arrive: Mexico City, Mexico MEX, 13:00 (on time) Mexico City: Paseo de la Reforma, Bosque de Chapultepec, Monumento a Los Ninos Heros Dinner: Fonda el Refugio, 20:30 La Casona Hotel-Relais MEXICO CITY

Thursday

6

Mexico City: Zocolo, Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Naciónal, Museo de Jose Cuevas, Templo de la Santísima, Museo de la Ciudad de Mexico, Hospital de Jesus Nazareno, Iglesia St. Philip Neri, Casa de los Condes de San Mateo, Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, Templo Mayor, Museo de la Templo Mayor, Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, Templo de la Enseñanza, Secretaria de Educación Publlica, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Palacio Postal, Casa de los Azulejos, Palacio de Bellas Artes; Alameda Central, Museo Mural Diego Rivera Breakfast: La Casona Hotel-Relais, 8:00 Lunch: Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, 13:30 La Casona Hotel-Relais MEXICO CITY

Friday

7

Car with driver (Guillermo) Teotihuacan: Piramide del Sol, Piramide de la Luna, Palacio de Quetzalpapatotl, Museo, Templo de Quetzalcoatl y Tlaloc, Tepanitila;

Alcoman:

Convento de Alcoman; Tepotzotlan: Museo Nacional del Virreinato Breakfast: La Casona Hotel-Relais, 8:00 Dinner: Izote de Patricia Quintana, 20:30 La Casona Hotel-Relais MEXICO CITY

Saturday

8

Mexico City: Museo Nacional de Anthropologia; Bosque de Chapultepec; San Angel: Plaza San Jacinto, Sรกbado Bazar; Coyoacan: Museo Leon Trotsky, Casa Azul (Museo Frida Kahlo), Plaza Hildalgo Breakfast: La Casona Hotel-Relais, 8:00 Dinner: Restaurante Pujol, 20:30 La Casona Hotel-Relais MEXICO CITY

Sunday

9

Mexico City: Palacio de Bellas Artes, Ballet Folklorico, 9:30; San Angel; Polanco Breakfast: La Casona Hotel-Relais, 8:00 Lunch: San Angel Inn, 13:30 La Casona Hotel-Relais MEXICO CITY

Monday

10

Depart: Mexico City MEX, Click Mexicana 7243 (Fokker 100), 10:45 Arrive: OAXACA OAX, 11:45 (on time) Oaxaca: Zocolo; Catedral; Calle Alcala; Iglesia de Santo Domingo; Instituto de Artes Grรกficas (Patricia Mendoza) Lunch: 1254 Marco Polo, 13:30 Dinner: Topil, 20:00 Hotel Camino Real Oaxaca OAXACA

Tuesday

11

Monte Alban: Gran Plaza, Juego de Pelota, Pyramide, Platforma Sur, Tumbas, Platforma Norte, Edificios J, L (Danzantes), M and O; Oaxaxa: Museuo de las Culturas de Oaxaca; Iglesia Santo Domingo Breakfast: 1254 Marco Polo, 8:30 Dinner: Casa Oaxaca, 20:30 Hotel Camino Real Oaxaca OAXACA

Wednesday 12

Car with driver (Apolo) Mitla: Grupo de las Columnas, Salon de Columnas, El Palacio, Grupo de Norte; Lambityeco; Yagul: Tumbas, Juego de Pelota, Palacio de las Seis Patiosl; Teotitlan del Valle; Tlacochahwaya: Convent of San Jeronimo; Santa Maria el Tula; San Augustine Etla: Taller Arte Papel de Oaxaca; Oaxaca: Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo, Zocalo Breakfast: Gabriela Gerente, 7:30 Dinner: El Asador Vasco, 19:30 Hotel Camino Real Oaxaca OAXACA

Thursday

13

Car with driver (Apolo) San Bartolo Coyotepec: Museo Estatal de Arte popular, Carlomagno Pedro Martinez; San Martin Tilcajete: Jacobo Angeles; Santo Tomas Jalieza; Zaachila; Oaxaxa: Basilica de la Soledad, Museo Rufino Tamayo, Museo de Arte Contemporameo, Mercado, Los Baules (textiles) Breakfast: Hotel Camino Real Oaxaca Dinner: Hosteria de Alcala, 19:30 Hotel Camino Real Oaxaca OAXACA

Friday

14

Depart: Oaxaca OAX, Alma 520 (CRJ 200), 8:55 Arrive: Tuxtla Gutierrez TGZ, 9:50 (on time) Taxi to San Cristobal San Cristobal: Plaza 31 de Marzo, Catedral, Templo y Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo, Mercado de Artesanas, Taller Lenateros Lunch: La Paloma, 13:00 Dinner: El Puente, 19:00 Casas Felipe Flores SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

Saturday

15

San Cristobal: Temple de San Francisco, Plaza 31 de Marzo, Museo de los Altos de Chiapas, Mercado de Artesanas, Templo de la Caridad Lunch: Glam, 13:30 Dinner: La Paloma, 19:30 Casas Felipe Flores SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

Sunday

16

(Palm Sunday) Tour (Alfredo): San Juan Chamula: Templo de San Juan Bautista; San Lorenzo Zinacantan; San Cristobal: Museo Na Bolom Lunch: Glam, 14:00 Dinner: Los Barrios, 20:00 Casas Felipe Flores SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

Monday

17

Rental Car: 7:30; Optima Car Rental: Volkswagen Derby Tonina: Templo de la Guerra Cosmica, Palacio de las Grecas y de la Guerra, Mural de las Cuatro Eras, Templo del Monstruo de la Tierra; Agua Azul; Palenque: Templo de las Inscripciones, El Palacio, Grupo de los Cruces Dinner: Chan-Kah Resort Village, 19:00 Chan-Kah Resort Village PALENQUE 258 kilometers/161 miles

Tuesday

18

Frontera Corozal; Usumacinta River: Lacha (Domingo Mayo); Yaxchilan: Gran Plaza, Edificios 17, 19, 20 and 33, Stele l and ll; Bonampak: Gran Plaza, Stele 1, 2 and 3, Templo de las Pinturas Dinner: Chan-Kah Resort Village PALENQUE

335/209

Wednesday 19

Palenque: El Palacio, Acropolis Sur, Museo de Sitio; Misol-Ha waterfalls Dinner: Na Bolom, 19:00 Casas Felipe Flores SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

224/140 Total rental distance: 817 km/510 mi

Thursday

20

Depart: San Cristobal de las Casas 7:00, van to Mexico/Guatemala border: arrive 12:45; depart Mexico/Guatemala border 13:00, arrive Panajachel 17:30; depart Panajachel: 17:45; van to Antigua: arrive 20:00 Lake Atitlan: Panajachel; Antigua: Semana Santa (processions, Arch of Santa Catarina Breakfast: En Route, 10:30 Dinner: La Fomda de la Calle Real, 21:00 Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Mรกrtir ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA

Friday

21

Antigua: Semana Santa (Good Friday processions): Parque Central; Catedral de Artesanas, Iglesia de la Merced, Ex-Convento de Capuchinas. Museo de Arte Colonial, Iglesia y Convento de Santa Domingo Breakfast: Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Martir, 8:00 Lunch: Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, 13:30 Dinner: El Sabor del Tiempo, 20:00 Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Mรกrtir ANTIGUA

Saturday

22

Antigua: Casa de Artes (Desiree) Depart: Antigua 14:00, van to Chichicastenango: arrive 16:15 Chichicastenango: Mercado; Iglesia de Santo Tomas Dinner; Mayan Inn, 19:00 Mayan Inn, Room 5 (Jorge) CHICHICASTENANGO

Sunday

23

Chichicastenango: Market Day (Easter procession of cofradias); Mercado; Iglesia de Santo Tomas Depart: Chichicastenango 14:00, van to Antigua: arrive 17:30 Breakfast: Mayan Inn, 7:30 Lunch: Hotel Santo Tomas, 13:00 Dinner: Bistro Cinq, 20:00 Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Mรกrtir ANTIGUA

Monday

24

Depart: Antigua 7:20, van to La Aurora airport (Guatemala City): arrive 8:45 Depart: Guatemala City GUA, Taca 7976 (ATR 42), 9:55 (on time) Arrive: Flores, FRS, 10:55 (on time) Depart: Flores: 11:30, taxi to Tikal (Gener): arrive 12:45 Flores; Lago de Peten Itza; El Remate; Tikal: Gran Plaza, Temple I, Temple II, Acropolis del Norte, Acropolis Central Breakfast: Jungle Lodge, 7:00 Lunch: Jungle Lodge, 13:30 Dinner: Jungle Lodge, 19:00 Jungle Lodge (Posada de la Selva) TIKAL

Tuesday

25

Tikal; Sunrise tour (Venicio) 3:15; Templo IV, El Mundo Period, Pyramide, Plaza de los Siete Templos, Acropolis del Sur, Templo V, Museums Depart: Tikal 14:00, van to Flores: arrive 15:00 Depart: Flores FRS, Taca 7977, 16:40 (:40 late) Arrive: Guatemala City GUA, 17:40 (:45 late) Depart: Guatemala City 14:00, van to Antigua: arrive 19:30 Tikal; Flores; Guatemala City; Antigua Dinner: Bistro Cinq, 20:00 Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Mรกrtir ANTIGUA

Wednesday 26

Depart: Antigua 3:30, Hedman Alas bus to Guatemala City: arrive 4:35; depart Guatemala City, 5:00, Hedman Alas first class bus: arrive border 9:00 and Copan 9:45 Copan (Guide: Birgilly): Grupo Principia, Gran Plaza, Escalinata de los Jeroglíficos, Templo de la Inscriptiones, Altar Q, tunnels, Museo Depart: Copan Ruinas, 14:00, Hedman Alas first class bus: arrive border 14:15; arrive Guatemala City, 18:30; depart Guatemala City, 18:45, Hedman Alas bus to Antigua, arrive 20:00 Dinner: La Fonda de la Calle Real, 21:00 Hotel Convento Santa Catalina Mártir ANTIGUA

Thursday

27

Antigua: Casa des Artes: Antigua Tours: walking tour (Roberto) Dinner: Casa Santo Domingo Hotel, 20:00 Hotel Casa Santo Domingo ANTIGUA

Friday

28

Depart Antigua, 6:15; van (Miguel), arrive La Aurora airport (Guatemala City), 7:45 Depart: Guatemala City GUA, Taca 7976 (ATR 42), 9:55 Arrive: Flores FRS, 10:55 (on time) Depart: Flores FRS, Taca 1590, 12:15 Arrive: CANCUN, Mexico CUN, 14:30 (1:30 late) Rental car: Hertz airport: Dodge Attitude Antigua; Guatemala City; Cancun; Chichen Itzá: Sound & Light, 19:00 Dinner: Hacienda Chichen Resort, 20:30 Hacienda Chichen Resort: Room 4, Morley House CHICHEN ITZA, MEXICO

212/133

Saturday

29

Chichen Itza: El Castillo, Acropodelas Mil Columnas, Cenote Sacrado, Gran Juego de Pelota, El Caracol, Edificio de las Monjas, El Osario; Isamal: Convento de San Antonio de Padua; Ruta de los Conventos Acanceh; Mayapan; Mama; Ticul; Muna; Uxmal Hacienda Uxmal UXMAL

Sunday

30

260/163

Uxmal: Casa del Advino, Cuadrangulo de las Monjas, Palacio del Gobernador, Templo Mayor, El Palomar; Ruta Puuc: Kabah: El Arco Labna; Xlapck, Sayil: El Palacio, El Mirador Breakfast: Hacienda Uxmal, 7:30 Lunch: Chat Mol (Sta Elena), 14:00 Hacienda Uxmal UXMAL

Monday

31

87/54

El Balam: Acropodelas; CobaL Templode las Iglesias, Nohoch Mul; Tulum: El Castillo, Templo de las Pinturas; Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve Breakfast: Hacienda Uxmal, 7:00 Dinner: Mezzanine Hotel, 19:30 Mezzanine Hotel TULUM

433/271

APRIL Tuesday

1

Mayan Riviera; Cancun Return rental car Cancun: 9:30 124/78 Total Rental: 1,116 kilometers/698 miles Depart: Cancun CUN, American 448 (Boeing 757), 14:40 (2:00 late) Arrive: CHICAGO ORD, 20:00 (2:25 late)

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip to Mexico and Guatemala from March 5-17, 2008.

Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2008. V. 2

Volume 2