2007 Turkey 3

Turkey 3

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip around Turkey from September 17– October 19, 2007. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2007. Volume 3.

Cover: Alexander Sarcophagus, detail

Turkey September 17-October 19, 2007

We continued our drive west from Marmaris, exploring numerous archeological sites and taking a detour to Rhodes, Greece for the day before returning to Istanbul for our last three nights in Turkey.

Volume 3

Wednesday, October 10

to Marmaris

Eggs and toast and homemade marmalade on the patio of the innkeeper’s house.

Mevlut picked us up at 8:00 for the trip back to Ucagiz. Cool, fresh morning air; saw tombs along the hillside. Left town just before 9:00 on our way to Letoon by way of a scenic mountain drive along the Bay of Oluderiz.

The Lycian city of Letoon lies on a small rocky plateau in the middle of cotton fields. The city was dedicated to the goddess Leto and her children, Apollo and Artemis, and the most significant remains date to the 8th century. The most interesting aspect of Letoon is that parts are flooded—particularly the nymphaeum, an arch of columns surrounded by rushes. Noted suspiciously that a mosaic depicting the aspects of Apollo and Artemis (the lyre and the bow and arrow) looked new although it lay in the open, unprotected.

Letoon

a UNESCO site

On our way to Xanthos, five kilometers from Letoon, smelled more of the incessant burning. This is obviously a major pollution issue all over Turkey. At Xanthos, found a valley surrounded by arid hills that were dotted with wild olive trees. This was the cradle of Lycia in the 8th century BC, until conquest by the Persians brought its destruction in 545 BC. Several of the most significant monuments are now at the British Museum—whether this is a good or bad thing is subject for debate.

Xanthos

a UNESCO site

Pinara Passing more evidence of burning, we drove to Pinara, a 5th century BC colony of Xanthos built in a steep, rugged area as a series of terraces. Twisted vines and massive gnarled trees hid tombs deep within the vegetation. It was a difficult site to explore, but we climbed up to the first series of tombs carved into the rock and almost completely hidden from view. After retracing our steps, we took the car up an exceedingly steep and narrow gravel trail but gave up after several kilometers, stopping on the descent to photograph the theater in its rugged setting.

On the way to Fethiye we decided to go another 10 kilometers to Dalyan on the southeast side of Lake Koycegiz. It is a small touristy village that has its own treasure—a surprising cliff rising on the other side of the river with Lycian tombs sculpted on the rock face, with intricate facades resembling temples. Looking up at them, high on the soaring rock face that plunged into the water below, it was hard to imagine how any stonecutter on primitive scaffolding with only hand tools could possibly have made them.

Dalyan

On into Marmaris where we located the ferry for our journey to Rhodes tomorrow. Ten minutes further we found the Pupa Yat Hotel (we later deemed it “Camp Pupa�) where we had a simple room in pleasant surroundings on the water. Dinner on the lanai with a bee, a dog, three cats and a two-year-old.

Thursday, October 11

to Rhodes—Resadiye

Got up early to catch the ferry to Rhodes. Obtained our visas and were first ones onboard. At first, we thought we’d have it to ourselves, but in the end, it was filled to capacity with a motley assortment of Germans, Turks, Italians, Brits, Canadians, Greeks, and Americans of a variety of shapes and sizes (mostly portly).

Disembarked at Rhodes at 10:15 and as non-EU citizens were just about the last to get through passport control.

Rhodes, Greece a UNESCO site

Fortifications were less imposing than anticipated but medieval city proved charming after we passed a concentration of cafes, postcard racks, gold shops and souvenir stands that were clustered at the entrance. Visited the medieval Hospital of the Knights, now converted into the archeology museum on the cobbled Street of the Knights.

Along the way were the various knight’s lodges—French, Italian, Spanish—that now are consulates. At the end of the street stands the Palace of the Grand Master, built by the knights in the 14th century and dominating the old town. Ordered Greek salad and honey and yoghurt in the courtyard of the Avalon, a small hotel tucked down a side street. Visited Our Lady of the Castle church and the Folk Art Museum. Had a pleasant stroll though town, poking into a couple of shops before settling in at an outside table at Taverna Sarris for halfliter diet colas served in glass boots. Entertained by an adorable 5year old girl who snapped pictures of everything in sight with her dad’s Nikon DSLR camera. At 3:30 returned to the terminal to wait for our journey back to Turkey.

Hospital of the Knights

Palace of the Grand Master

Musuem of Folk Art

Left a little ahead of our 4:30 scheduled departure which was a good thing as we had a 75- kilometer drive ahead of us to the Resadiye peninsula and the Mehmet Ali Aga Konagi, an 1809 Ottoman mansion and Relais & Chateau hotel. It was magnificent. We were truly staying in a museum. The walls and ceiling of our room were of carved cedar and there were antiques on the shelves and old kilims on the floor. The bathroom was interestingly (and rather inconveniently) located in a wooden cupboard—authentic but tough on modesty. Dinner in the courtyard below was a treat—organic vegetables from the garden. Wish we had more time to enjoy it.

Mehmet Ali Aga Konagi

Friday, October 12

to Turkbuku

Seker Bayram (End of Ramazan)

Lyi Bayramlar! Ramazan is over and the three-day celebrations begin. Slept well in our Ottoman mansion as the aroma of cedar soothed our dreams. Woke up to the pounding of drums in the nearby village and the sound of children’s laughter. A breakfast of cheeses, eggs, olives and preserves from the fruits of the garden as we sat outside in the courtyard. Walked though the property taking pictures. The manager opened the small shop for us and we ended up buying an antique lock and key that resembled the one on the door of our room. After stopping to take a picture of some multi-blade windmills on the road to Kizlan we were on our way—back along the Datca Peninsula to Bodrum.

Once a pretty fishing village, Bodrum had become a tourist town and not a very nice one. On this day of celebration, the streets were crowded with holiday makers. Circled the crowded harbor area for 45 minutes looking for a place to park but eventually gave up and left the car at an otopark some distance away.

Walked though narrow alleys of shops and fast food, looking for landmarks to insure we could find our way back again. In the middle of the bay, the Castle of St. Peter divides Bodrum in half. It is the last Crusader castle, erected by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John in 1402. We joined the throngs for a walk within its walls, entering several buildings that contain the Underwater Archeology Museum, a collection of cargo from ancient shipwrecks. We found the castle somewhat disappointing. As we left, we passed a large crowd celebrating the holiday with a feast of kebaps, rice, aubergine and aryan (that dreadful salty drink) in the lower garden of the castle. Back on the road, 10 kilometers brought us to the quieter and more upscale Turkbuku, a village of small white houses on the Aegean that in summer, according to an article we read, becomes the Turkish St. Tropez. Hard to imagine, with the sleepy spot we were seeing now. Checked into Maki, one of the attractive waterside hotels that must get swinging, if the rate hike in season is any indication. Joined a few napping sunbathers for a drink on the deck and then walked down the boardwalk for a sea bass dinner.

Bodrum

Saturday, October 13

to Sirince

It rained last night—didn’t hear a thing but the rooftops and patios were wet this morning. Visited three major sites today. Driving to Milas at 10:00 on a Saturday, we were surprised that the wide street was totally devoid of both traffic and pedestrians. At Didyma, saw the ancient Temple of Apollo, a colossal structure that, had it been completed, would surely have been one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The coming of Christianity, however, put an end to the cult of Apollo and the temple was never finished. Its size is nonetheless overwhelming—the diameter of the column sections gave a sense of the size of the overall building. Beautiful carvings were everywhere—bas reliefs and huge Medusa heads.

Didyma

A few more kilometers brought us to Miletus, established in 1400 BC. Most notable at this site is the enormous theater that looks like a fortress designed by giants.

The seats unfold like a huge fan and it is hard to get the entire structure into a camera frame, even from a distance. Walked along the Sacred Way among the ruins of temples, baths, latrines, around the agora, to the base of the famous Market Gate. The gate itself is now in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. It was fascinating to see the spot where that massive structure once stood and to imagine what the entire city must have been like when it was complete. It is difficult to know whether to feel sad that the building no longer stands where it was intended or appreciative that it is now safe and protected from time and the elements. As we drove from Miletus to Priene, we passed a low marsh, now planted with cotton, that once was the sea itself. Miletus was on the sea at one time, but over the millennia silt built up, taking the sea 10 kilometers form the city and ultimately contributing to its demise.

Site of the market Gate

Miletus

At Priene, we found a hilly site of great beauty. This city was built in the 6th century BC in a series of terraces among lush pines. After a climb, we walked among the ruins, with the sound of the wind blowing through the trees. At the center of the site is the Temple of Athena, its five remaining Ionic columns standing majestically with a sheath of pine trees and the rugged mountains as a backdrop.

Priene

As the afternoon wore on, we drove north through Selcuk into a beautiful

being there. We were told that the water in the tap was safe to drink, as it

valley of olive trees and tangerine groves. We climbed the hills on a very

comes from the same natural spring that supplied water to the Romans at

narrow, very winding and very crowded road—cars, dolmuses and buses passed

Ephesus. Kubi suggested that we take a walk down to the village and this we

each other with inches to spare. Someone had stopped on the cliff-side and a

did, following a steep footpath aided by series of stone steps. Found ourselves

large bus tried to get by, causing a nail-biting logjam. Eventually it cleared and

descending along narrow alleys between white-washed houses with orange

we reached the village of Sirince. Apparently, that charming little mountain

tiled roofs—we could hear donkeys, sheep, horses. Laundry was hanging out,

village is THE place to celebrate Seker Bayram and there was an impossible

tractors were parked next to tiny barns. In the center of the town we found

number of vehicles all trying to find a place to park. After some difficulty, we

the bazaar, lively with the air of celebration. Stopped to look at bottles of locally

were shown the way up an even more narrow and steep dirt road where we

made olive oil and got into a conversation with the young fellow manning the

found Nisanyan House. We were warmly greeted by a young man who

stall. Ended up returning to buy a bottle of oil and some Turkish tea. Enjoyed

introduced himself as Kubi and who served us a welcome drink of pomegranate

watching a woman making pies and a group of men having a discussion. The hill

and elderberry juice which we drank in the little patio under a plum tree. After I

back to the inn was marked with little snail signs and we made it back just as it

tied a strip of colorful fabric on the wishing tree—and made a wish—we were

started to rain. Enjoyed a glass of wine and watched a torrential storm pass

shown to our room. The feel of the inn is intensely authentic and the lack of

though. Dinner at 8:00 in a cozy corner; roasted lamb and spicy chicken with

AC and other comforts was more than compensated by the experience of

fresh vegetables, and a Turkish red to top it off.

Sirince

Sunday, October 14

Sirince

Stormed all night; felt ill in the middle of the night but by morning all was calm inside and out. Awoke to the sound of dogs baying at the call to prayer. We have had a real array of wake-up calls on this trip! At breakfast met Mary and Fred from New York who are traveling south; they seem to be in much the same stage of life that we are. Made a few calls to confirm our final reservations in Turkey before leaving for the day. Down the mountain and 70 kilometers to Aphrodisias, city of Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty. In a plain of poplars and vineyards, the city glistens white against its setting. The area was inhabited as early as the third millennium BC but was not fully developed until the 7th century BC with the birth of the cult of Aphrodite. We explored the theater, baths, and market square of this elegant city, reaching its heart, the temple of Aphrodite and its monumental gate, the Tetrapylon or “gateway to heaven.” Its particular beauty lies in its fluted and twisted columns and delicate sculptural detailing. This city was filled with exquisite examples of the sculptor’s art—sarcophagi, columns, and carvings from fallen facades. The museum held further treasures, including a softly lifelike frieze from a monument in honor of the city’s principal donor.

Aphrodisias

a UNESCO site

Turned back towards Selcuk to see the legendary house of the Virgin Mary. Meryemana is a reconstruction set high in mountainous terrain, in the middle of a surrounding park. Rather than a pilgrimage site, it seemed more an amusement park. Tour busses, souvenir stands, icon shops and restaurants—and a steep admission charge—contributed to this sense. Nonetheless it was fascinating to see people of all faiths and nationalities file through the tiny structure and I must admit that I was moved when I entered and felt the fervent prayers that were lifted there. Pilgrims lighted candles or filled containers with water from the nearby sacred spring. A long wall was thick with rolled up prayer requests, thousands upon thousands of them.

Meryemana

Only a short drive to Ephesus. The guidebook calls Ephesus “a book in stone.” Archeologists have been working to reconstruct it since 1896, and it now clearly reveals the story of what life was like in the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. We have visited many sites and I first I was disappointed. Perhaps I was expecting too much from this legendary city where St. Paul founded a major church and St. John wrote his gospel. But as we started down the blue and white marble Curetes Way, with its statues, fountains and temples and the Library of Celsus in the distance, I was swept away. This is why Ephesus is Turkey’s most visited site. I imagined the clusters of tourists as Ephesian citizens and the city came alive for me. Satisfied with our productive day, we returned to Nisanyan House for wine and pistachios and watched the sun set on Sirince.

Ephesus a UNESCO site

Monday, October 15

to Alibey Adasi

Needed to get an early start so arranged for a 7:00 breakfast. By 8:00 the kitchen was still dark and no one was in sight so we packed up and headed down the mountain. Before leaving, used the in-house computer to send a quick email to Em using Jake’s email address; I can’t use my own because the Turkish keyboard gets screwed up over the letter “S”. Out on the O-31 motorway for 50 kilometers towards Izmir. Driving in Turkey would be a piece of cake if all the roads were like these beautiful expressways. Detoured to the picturesque fishing village of Foca. Blustery as we walked along the harbor to the main square. Lots of boats—boats for business, boats for pleasure. Watched a fisherman cleaning his nets, picking fish parts caught in the mesh and tossing them to a waiting cadre of cats. A dog watched with interest as a second fisherman cut bait over a giant basket. Sat at a nearby café over thick Turkish coffee and cheese toasts. Bought two sesame simits from a vendor for the road.

Foca

The road to Bergama was scenic—until we came upon a giant dump followed by a huge industrial complex—and trucks, trucks, trucks. Pulled off onto a small road up to the Acropolis of Pergamon on the summit of a hill overlooking the city. In the 2nd century, it was the Roman capitol of Asia and the equal of Rome and Alexandria. Although the antiquities of Pergamon are in Berlin, the site is still lovely, especially the columns of the sparkling Temple of Trajan. The theater, one of Turkey’s grandest, appears to be tumbling down the mountainside. As we descended into the town again, we stopped to take pictures of the colorful houses and carpet shops in Old Pergamon.

Pergamon

a UNESCO site

Continued to the Asclepion, the “lower city,� which was a health center dedicated to Aesculpius, the god of healing, in the 4th century BC. It was here that the Roman anatomist Galen treated the celebrities of the Roman Empire who came there for healing of mind and body. Found the pillar with sculpted snakes that inspired the symbol of the caduceus for the practice of medicine.

Asclepion

a word of English. We nonetheless felt at home there. Deposited our bags and set out to explore the town and find a place for dinner. Jake had written the name of a recommended restaurant on a slip of paper and showed it to a man who was standing near his souvenir stall. He looked at it, immediately asked the shopkeeper across the way to keep an eye on things and led us down to the seafront to Bay Nihat-Lale Restaurant, located in an attractive 150-year-old Greek house. Had delicious mezas and freshly caught fish. We had a lovely evening and agreed that the Turkish people we had come in contact with have been uniformly hospitable and helpful. Back in our room we fell asleep to the sounds of barking dogs and the wind stirring the chimes in Aunt Zehra’s garden below.

Another scenic drive along the sea on good roads to Avalik, a more touristy fishing town, and then over a causeway to Alibey Adasi (Cunda) Island. Driving into the village of narrow streets and stone houses we knew only that Zehra Teyze’nin Evi (Aunt Zehra’s House) was near the Taksiyarhis Church. We found the steeple and almost got stuck trying to follow an alley up to the church. Showed an old man in the street the address and he motioned that he would take us there. We put him in the front seat and drove following his signed directions. Two turns and we were at an abandoned (but strangely beautiful) Greek church, graffiti on the walls and a sign warning “Do not enter —Danger of collapse.” Our friend motioned for me to follow him and with great difficulty he mounted the stone steps and slowly crossed over to an adjacent stone house. He rang the bell and an old woman answered, wearing a long blue sweater with a scarf around her head. Our friend gave a word of explanation to the woman and she turned to me an indicated that she was Zehra. We shook hands and she took us to the door and motioned for us to remove our shoes and leave them there. What we found inside was a quirky, comfortable and immaculate Greek house, and gracious hosts who spoke not

Tuesday, October 16

to Bursa

This morning’s wake up call was from roosters who beat the call to prayer by half an hour. Bright, brisk and breezy day. When we crept down the creaky stairs in our socks, Aunt Zehra had breakfast waiting for us: a boiled egg, cheese, bread, the ubiquitous sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and her home-produced olives. She brought out a big bowl of fresh olives and pantomimed the process of turning them into the olives we had on our plates. She poured our tea and then painfully sat down with us, her gestures suggesting that she suffers from arthritis. She silently pointed out a photo of her husband on the wall—a captain of the ferry, from what we could tell. Didn’t dawdle over the meal, feeling very much observed. Packed up and settled our bill, and after Aunt Zehra kissed me on both cheeks, we put on our shoes and were on our way.

Returned to the church for a quick look inside; the evident cracks in the columns did not encourage us to tarry.

Walked to the harbor where we saw men out tending their nets and an attendant number of hungry cats.

The road to Bursa was again good. Passed farm stands with melons, pumpkins, squash and onions. Intermixed with the stands were a surprising number of outlet centers —Reebok, Pierre Cardin, Quicksilver, Starbucks Coffee, McDonalds. Reached Bursa just before 2:00 and found the Hotel Gonluferah in the Cekirge area west of town with little problem, fortuitously stopping to ask directions on the street where the hotel was located. Nice modern room with a wonderful view of Bursa (pop.

1.5M) spread below us. Taxied to Yesil Camii, the Green Mosque, completed in 1424 and named for the beautiful green tiles that grace the interior. The mosque is actually white and the entrance features intricate Arabic carving. The nearby tomb of Mehmet I was closed for restoration.

A second taxi brought us to the Ulu Mosque, also dating from the early 15th

—and saw everything imaginable for sale, from beds to Turkish Delight.

C. It combines Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. What made this mosque

Adjacent to the market we found Koza Han, a 500-year-old caravanserai

special was the exquisite calligraphy that decorated the walls and pillars that

built around a small mosque. Found the corridor of antiques shops and

support its 20 domes. Prayers had officially ended but worshippers remained,

visited Minyatur after reading about it in a New York Times article by

and we mingled with them admiring the beautiful interior. Shared a Bursa

Stephen Kinzer. Spent the next couple of hours looking at beautiful textiles

Iskender Kebap with yoghurt and a tomato sauce at a fast food place—

and Arabic calligraphy under the gracious tutelage of Dr. Mehdi Kamruz. We

tasted so good that we asked ourselves why we hadn’t gotten street food

learned a lot and left with nice examples of both along with a book about

more often. Strolled through Bursa’s market—partly covered and partly open

Turkish embroidery. Back at the hotel we relaxed with a glass of wine.

Wednesday, October 17

to Istanbul

Three hours of grueling driving through an industrial wasteland from Bursa

Bosphorus. Ascending the crystal staircase, found myself imagining I was

brought us back to Istanbul. The pollution from exhaust spewing trucks and

attending some grand affair. Jake found the whole place over the top.

the acrid smoke from countless factories was awful. Fifty kilometers out, Jake

Afterwards, retrieved our cameras and went back to the task of recreating

passed the 8,000-kilometer mark. He had arranged to deposit the car at the

my picture. Something did not seem quite right and we realized that the

airport and it could not have been easier—drove to International

gate was not the one in the picture. Walked around the side of the

Departures where a man in an orange tie was waiting for us. Jake signed a

compound and found the right one, but this one had signs that the area was

form and that was it. Hailed a taxi to Taksim Square where we checked into

a military zone and off limits. I ran over anyway and Jake snapped the photo

the Lush Hip Hotel—new and yes, hip. Our room is small and, being over a

before the nearby guards could shoo us away. Ridiculous how complicated

busy street, noisy with horns and construction work, but it is comfortable

the whole thing was. Our next project was to locate the Antik Palas to look

and quirky—and they provide great toiletries. Leisurely time organizing our

for the book on Turkish calligraphy recommended to us by Dr. Kamruz in

things in preparation for repacking to fly home. Taxied to Dolmabahche

Bursa. That too became a major operation as our driver asked a dozen

Palace, completed in 1856 as the Ottoman imperial residence. Wanted to

people if they knew where it was. Although we couldn’t understand the

replicate that picture that my father had taken—it wasn’t easy. As Jake tried

words, the gestures seemed to indicate a real jumble of conflicting

to take my photo, we were hustled in to the complex by a most unpleasant

directions. We got a whirlwind tour of Beyoglu, zooming up some steep and

fellow who insisted on locking up our cameras. Joined a tour that was

narrow streets and flying down others, barely missing cars and pedestrians.

starting and saw that everyone else had a camera. Not sure what the

At last, Jake spotted the word “Antik” and we arrived at the large auction

problem was and were pretty annoyed. The palace is a European-Ottoman

house where we were successful in acquiring the book. We later shared

conglomeration of Baroque ostentation with fabulous views of the

aubergine and yoghurt kebaps at Hamdi Restaurant.

Thursday, October 18

Istanbul

A really nice day. Started by taking a long walk down the (mostly) pedestrian Istiklal Caddesi, a wide tiled street of boutiques and music shops and restaurants with an old-fashioned trolley line going down the center. Looked for the CD we had heard at dinner in Sirence—the girl in the music store took us right to it, displayed prominently. Passed the Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage) built in 1876 and now a series of restaurants. At the Galata Tower, the road descends rapidly —and deteriorates for the pedestrian into a death-defying path of uneven pavement, surprising steps, projecting objects and vanishing sidewalks, making watching one’s step a matter of prime importance. I was only able to glance at the interesting collections of shops along the way. Stores here seem to appear in clusters—the fashion boutiques, bookstores, musical instruments and electronic equipment are grouped together—makes comparison shopping a breeze, I expect. Crossed over the bridge to Sultanahmet. The fish must have been biting as a fleet of fishing poles was draped over the railing.

Returned to Topkapi to see the Archeological Museum we had missed last time. The three museums that make up the complex are excellent. Highlight was the Alexander Sarcophagus (4th century BC)—unbelievably executed and even more unbelievably preserved—the delicate expressions on each face are still evident. Particularly liked the Tiled Kiosk, built in 1472 as an outer building of the palace and now housing an exquisite collection of Iznik ceramics. I can’t imagine a better example of the integration of collection and venue. In the sculpture garden, stopped for a drink at a pleasant table tucked among the ancient columns and stones.

expecting us. Kadir Sukru Karateke was the son of Pemil, who had opened the shop 58 years ago. His beads were beautifully crafted in his studio by true artisans. We learned a great deal about quality and materials and how they should feel to the touch. After a fascinating session, we each picked one—Jake chose tortoise shell (not harvested but only from those turtles found killed on the road, we were assured) and I picked a dainty string of kuca, a wooden husk material. As Kadir wrapped them up for us he put mine in a little pink crocheted and beaded bag. He said that his wife had made it and the small work was hard on her eyes. I was delighted at this very special gift. We said goodbye to Umit and, purchases in hand, were given a warm send-off. What a fascinating afternoon it was for us both—we really had a sense of the way business is conducted in the world of the Grand Bazaar. We had dinner in the Our walk was uphill to the Grand Bazaar. Found Umit Berksoy’s shop again,

Cicek Pasaji at Ikinci Bahar Restaurant, a meyhane or “wine house” filled with

only having to ask for directions once. He greeted us warmly and showed us

foreigners. After raki and kebaps, we walked around the fish market. Bought a

the necklace that he had designed for me—15 agates from 150-200 year old

Turkish teapot—actually a two-pot system—which we hope will duplicate the

signet rings, set in gold. I was delighted. He also had a rough drawing of earrings

tea we have been enjoying here.

which we discussed. Once we decided what we wanted, he called his workshop and sent Fahti, his assistant, back with them. They would be ready in an hour or so. Meanwhile we asked him about a couple of other things—tea, worry beads and calligraphy. He led us around the old bazaar to the appropriate places. I was fascinated by his manner: he didn’t just walk, but became a real presence, making his way slowly, almost majestically, looking this way and that, taking his time. He introduced us to Nick, a gifted calligrapher who has been creating delicate works of art on pressed leaves since 1968. We enjoyed looking at examples of his work and after deliberating, agreed on a prayer from the Koran. Umit and Nick exchanged words and we were offered a price “just for us.” Next, we went to the prayer beads shop—yes, a whole shop. It was closed, but not to worry. Calls were made and the owner was to come in a few minutes. By the time we returned to Umit’s shop, the earrings were ready, beautifully finished in under an hour. A stunning set, and of course at a price just for me. Our calligraphy from Nick was brought to us, neatly packaged, and the owner of the Tesbihci (prayer bead) shop was now

Friday, October 19

Istanbul

Our last day in Turkey and we felt like keeping a slow pace. Strolled down Istiklal Caddesi again; this time we stopped at the Para Palas, the iconic hotel built in 1894 for passengers from the Orient Express. The grand dame is closed for renovation and is scheduled for a gala re-opening on New Year’s 2010. Peeped in and imagined what it will be after restoration. Must have been fabulous in its time; perhaps will be again one day. Walked down to the Tunel to see about a ride on the funicular but it too was closed for renovation. We’ve seen a lot of that: crumbling buildings of faded beauty, some ruined, others newly rebuilt. But that is the nature of a city this size, and one with such a long history: something is always going up and something is always on the way down. Stopped to buy an antique evil eye at a small shop—can’t leave Turkey without one. Cappy (the apricot drink that Jake has become addicted to) and a mineral water with a kasarli tost (pressed cheese toast) at Sila, a small outdoor café on a side street off the Istiklal. Tiny tables and low stools, backgammon available at every one. A chance to catch up with postcards and journaling. Leisurely afternoon packing and napping. Realized that once again, we have acquired a ton of books. Last dinner at another meyhane, Boncuk, located on an attractive side street with other like places off the Istiklal. Last taste of raki and a good meal of lamb and fish. A little gelato as we walked back through the Friday night scene, the street a sea of youthful humanity. It will be good to be home, but it’s been quite a ride.

Saturday, October 20

Chicago

Up at 5:00; taxi got us to Ataturk Airport in record time for our 9:30 departure. Arrived in Paris at 11:45; delayed departure for Chicago got us home at 4:40PM Chicago time. First swing though mail and unpacking; Jake even went to the grocery store. Fell into bed at last, tired and happy to be home.

Itinerary SEPTEMBER Sunday

16

Depart: CHICAGO, ORD, Air France Flight 51, 5:25 pm (on time)

Monday

17

Arrive: PARIS, CDG, 8:50 (on time); Depart: Paris, CDG, Air France Flight 1590, 10:05 (on time); Arrive: ISTANBUL, IST, 14:25 (on time) Istanbul: Sultanahmet area; Sultan Ahmet (Blue) Mosque Dinner: Sabahattin the Fisherman, 20:00 Ibrahim Pasha Hotel ISTANBUL

Tuesday

18

Sultan Ahmet Mosque; Hagia Sophia Museum; Hippodrome; Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum; Byzantine Cistern; Grand Bazaar; Spice Market; Suleymaniye Mosque; Sinan Tomb Lunch: Pandeh, 13:30 Dinner: Giritli, 19:30 Ibrahim Pasha Hotel ISTANBUL

Wednesday

19

Topkapi Palace; Bosphorus Cruise; Rustem Pasha Mosque Hamam: Cemberlitas Hamami Dinner: Refik, 19:30 Ibrahim Pasha Hotel ISTANBUL

Thursday

20

Istanbul:Church of St. Saviour-in-Chora; Grand Bazaar Jewelry: Umit Berksoy Dinner: Cezayir, 19:30 Turkeman Hotel ISTANBUL

Friday

21

SRH: Depart: Istanbul, IST, Turkish Airlines Flight 1587, 8:30 (on time) GEL: Automobile Rental: 9:30; Auto Europe UK (Articar): Renault Megane diesel.

Safranbolu: Cinci Han; Bazaar Dinner: Cinci Han Hotel Restaurant, 19:00 Cinci Han Hotel SAFRANBOLU

Saturday

22

412 kilometers/258 miles

Kastamonu; Amasya: Pontic tombs; Ottoman Houses; Gok Mederse; Sultan Beyazit Mosque Dinner: Pasha Restaurant, Grand Pasha Hotel, 19:00 Grand Pasha Hotel AMASYA

382/239

Sunday

23

Black Sea coast route; Samson; Trabzon: Church of Hagia Sophia Dinner: Horon Hotel Restaurant, 19:00 Horon Hotel TRABZON

Monday

24

480/300

Sumela Monastery; Trabzon: Grand Bazaar; Russian Bazaar; Ataturk Alani area Dinner: Local Restaurant, 19:30 Horon Hotel TRABZON

Tuesday

25

97/61

Ispir; Coruh River Valley; Dortkilise; Yusefeli; Artvin Dinner: Karahan Hotel Restaurant, 19:00 Karahan Hotel ARTVIN

Wednesday

26

366/229

Ishan; Osk Vank ; Haho; Kars Dinner: Ani Restaurant, Kars Hotel, 19:30 Kars Hotel KARS

Thursday

27

451/282

Ani: Church of Redeemer; Church of St. Gregory; Convent of Virgins; Menucehir Mosque; Ruined Bridge; Cathedral; Church of Holy Apostles, Oguzlu; Karmir Vank; Kars.

Dinner: Ocak Basi, 19:30 Kars Hotel KARS

Friday

28

148/93

Mt Ararat; Dogubayazet; Ishak Pasa Palace; Muradiye Waterfalls; Van: Van Fortress Dinner: Tamara Hotel Restaurant, 20:00 Tamara Hotel VAN

Saturday

29

411/257

Akdamar Island; Akdamar Kilisesi; Ahlat: Seljuk Cemetary; Ulu Tomb; Cifte Tomb; Bayindir Tomb; Batman; Tigris River; Hasankeyf; Midyat Dinner: Hotel Matiat Restaurant, 20:00 Hotel Matiat MIDYAT

Sunday

30

533/333

Midyat; Mar Gabriel; Meryemanna; Mor Bacchus; Deyr-az- Zaferan (Saffron Monastery); Mardin Dinner: Cercis Murat Konagi, 19:30 Erdoba Konaklari (room in separate older building) MARDIN

200/125

OCTOBER Monday

1

Mardin: Birinci Caddesi; Ulu Mosque; Bazaar, Latifiye Mosque; Sanliurfa: Golbasi area and pool:, Selahattin Eyubil Mosque; Rizvaniye Vakfi Mosque and Medersa, Halilur Rahman Mosque; Dinner: Cevahir Konuk Evi Restaurant, 19:30 Cevahir Konuk Evi SANLIURFA

Tuesday

2

302/189

GEL: Euphrates River; Harran: beehive buildings, Crusader fortress; Gaziantep: Bazaar area SRH: Arrive: ISTANBUL, IST, 15:40 (on time); Depart: Istanbul, IST, Turkish Airlines Flight 688, 17:20 (on time); Arrive: Gaziantep, GZT 19:05 (on time) Dinner: Imam Cagdas, 20:30 Anadolu Evleri GAZIANTEP

Wednesday

3

167/104 (Distance driven alone:3,949/2,468)

Gaziantep: Archeological Museum; Karatepe; Derinkuyu: Underground City; Urgup Dinner: Dimrit, 19:30 Esbelli Evi URGUP

Thursday

4

511/319

Kapadokya Balloons Classic Flight (Pilot: Lars Eric Mรถre) 6:30-9:30 Goreme: Goreme Open Air Museum: Buckle Church, St Basil Church, Apple Church, Snake Church, Dark Church; Avanos; Fairy Chimneys; Uchisar Guide: Bunyamin Ozmen Lunch: Bizim Ev, 13:00 Dinner: Somine, 18:30 with Bill Wulf and Anita Jones Esbelli Evi URGUP

Friday

5

49/31

Mustafa Pasha: Church of St. Constantine, Greek houses; Cemilkoy; Soglani Valley: Keslik Monastery, Monastery of Archangels; Taskinpasha; Sobesos; Pancarlik Valley Guide: Bunyamin Ozmen Lunch: Kapadokya, 13:00 Dinner: Dimrit, 19:00 Esbelli Evi Hotel URGUP

Saturday

6

109/68

Urgup: Saturday Bazaar; Silifke; Gokso Valley; Alahan Monastery; Kizkalesi: Castle Dinner: Hotel Club Barbarossa Restaurant, 19:00 Hotel Club Barbarossa KIZKALESI

504/315

Sunday

7

Marmure Kalesi; Alanya: Bedesten Hotel, Fortress, Harbor area Dinner: Ottoman House, 19:00 Kaptan Hotel ALANYA

Monday

8

305/191

Alarahan; Aspendos; Perge; Termessos; Antalya: Kaleici quarter Dinner: Tuvana Hotel Restaurant, 19:30 Tuvana Hotel ANTALYA

Tuesday

9

261/163

Phaselis; Olympos; Myra; Demre: St Nicholas Church; Ucagiz; Simena: Kekova Bay, Underwater City, Lycian Tomb Dinner: Hasan’s Roma, 19:30 Nesrin’s Bademli Ev Kekova SIMENA

Wednesday

10

200/125

Ucagiz: Lycian Tombs; Letton; Pinara; Xanthos; Fethiye; Dalyan; Marmaris Dinner: Pupa Yat Restaurant 20:00 Pupa Yat Hotel MARMARIS

Thursday

11

344/215

Depart: Marmaris, Marmaris-Rhodes Island Ferry Line, 9:00 Arrive: RHODES, 9:50 Rhodes: Citadel, Palace of Grand Master; Knight’s Street and Lodges; Knight’s Hospital; Our Lady of the Castle Church; Ramparts; Datca Peninsula Lunch: Avalon Café, 13:00; Sarris Taverna: 15:00 Depart: Rhodes, 16:30; Arrive: MARMARIS, 17:20 Dinner: Mehmet Ali Ada Mansion 20:00 Mehmet Ali Ada Mansion (Mernus Room) RESADIYE

Friday

12

87/54

Datca Peninsula; Bodrum: Bodrum Kalesi (Castle of St. Peter); Underwater Archeology Museum; Turkbuku Dinner: Boncuk, 19:30 Maki Hotel TURKBUKU

Saturday

13

266/166

Didyma; Miletus; Priene; Selcuk; Sirence Dinner: Nisanyan Guest House, 19:30 Nisanyan Guest House Restaurant SIRINCE

248/155

Sunday

14

Aphrodisias; Merremana; Ephesus Dinner: Nisanyan Guest House, 19:30 Nisanyan Guest House Restaurant SIRINCE

Monday

15

329/204

Izmir; Foca; Pergamon: Acropolis, Asceplion; Ayvalik; Alibey Adasi (Cunda) Dinner: Bay Nihat (Lale Restaurant), 19:00 Aunt Zehra’s Guest House ALIBEY ADASI (CUNDA)

Tuesday

16

326/204

Bursa: Yesil Cami (Green) Mosque; Yesil Turbe (Green Mausoleum); Ulu Mosque; Covered Bazaar Calligraphy and Ottoman Embroidery: Minyatur (Dr. Mehdi Kamruz) Dinner: Kebap House, 21:30 Hotel Gonluferah BURSA

Wednesday

17

290/181

Istanbul: Dolmabahche Palace, Nisantasi area, Antik Palas, Istiklal Caddesi Return rental car at Ataturk International Airport, 13:30 Dinner: Hamdi, 20:00 Lush Hip Hotel ISTANBUL

276/173 Total Driving: 8,054 kilometers/5,034 miles

Thursday

18

Istanbul: Taksim Square, Istiklal Caddesi, Galata Tower, Galata Bridge, Archeological Museum, Tiled Kiosk, Grand Bazaar Jewelry: Umit Berksoy; Calligraphy: Nick’s Calligraphy; Prayer beads: Kadir Sukru Karateke Dinner: Ikinci Bahar, 19:30 Lush Hip Hotel ISTANBUL

Friday

19

Istanbul: Pera Palas, Tunel, Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu area Lunch: Sila, 13:30 pm Dinner: Boncuk, 19:00 Lush Hip Hotel STANBUL

Saturday

20

Depart: Istanbul, IST, Air France Flight 2391, 9:00 (on time) Arrive: PARIS, CDG, 11:45 (on time); Depart: Paris, CDG, Air France Flight 50, 14:15 (one hour late) Arrive: CHICAGO, ORD, 16:40 (one hour, 30 minutes late; one bag delivered Sunday evening )

1952 2007 Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip around Turkey from September 17– October 19, 2007. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2007. Volume 3.

V. 3