2006 The Pacific Northwest and Canada

The Pacific Northwest and Canada September 10 — October 3, 2006

A journal by Susan Hanes of a trip to the Pacific Northwest from September 10—October 3, 2006. Photographs by Susan Hanes and George Leonard.

The Pacific Northwest and Canada September 10- October 3, 2006 An old-fashioned road trip. That is the best way to describe our 7766-mile adventure in the Northwest United States and Canada. In 24 days, we visited twelve states, two Canadian Provinces and twelve National Parks. We saw deserts and mountains, we traveled from sea level to 12,000 feet, we encountered sunshine and snow, rain and fog. We beheld the kitch and the corny, the classical and the elegant. We stayed in fine hotels and enjoyed special meals, and had our share of hamburgers and cheap motels. And we experienced the astonishing beauty and diversity of this country of ours.

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Sunday, September 10 to Kadoka, SD Early start from Chicago in a drizzle; out on I-90 by 6:30 AM. Interesting that we got on I-90 at Division Street and followed it all the way to Kadoka for 812 miles.

Followed the rain too, passing Madison, WI, Rochester, MN, and Sioux Falls, SD. Billboard heaven the whole way: started seeing Wall Drug signs 355 miles from its location. Off at Mitchell, SD to see the Corn Palace; we had followed its “corny” signs for 80 miles: “You’ll be A-maize-d”, “Corn-sider Seeing Corn Palace” and “Corn-ceptual Art at Corn Palace.” Photographed the murals of corn on the exterior walls. Before getting back on the Interstate, visited one of the massive Cabela outlets, the largest hunting and fishing outfitter in the world, with dioramas of stuffed game and a huge aquarium. At the end of the final 180 miles to Kadoka the sun finally broke though. We drove through this small town of 732 people, noting that Main Street contained all the necessities: school, library, town hall, grocery, hardware store, gift shop, hair dresser, barber, pub, fire station and laundry. Beer and tough T-bone steak for a reasonable price at a basic restaurant decorated in a Route 66 theme adjacent to our motel; an even more basic room for the night.

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Monday, September 11

to Deadwood, SD

A foggy morning as we returned to I-90 for 38 miles to Wall. Breakfast buffet at Wall Drug, which has expanded to many buildings that have all but taken over the town. Traded my breakfast eggs and bacon for the doughnuts, which were fantastic. Walked though the various shops and rooms, finding everything from western art to plastic bear Christmas ornaments. Had fun posing for silly pictures on a bucking bronco, a “Jackalope,” and as an Indian squaw.

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The fog burned off as we drove to Badlands National Park. Amazing views of barren buttes puncturing the prairie; the stratified colors changing at every turn. Stopped at numerous overlooks, each looking more otherworldly than the next. Leaving the park, we continued along scenic highway 44 towards Rapid City, passing Interior, Scenic and Caputa and into the Black Hills. Startling contrasts as the arid, eroding landscape gave way to lush rolling hills dotted with rich, dark pines. As we drove into the Black Hills, it was easy to understand why the Indians held this beautiful land sacred. Jake commented, “This is just plain pretty country.”

However, scores of tourist attractions competed with the natural beauty: a Christmas Village (featuring NFL, Elvis and Americana items), Putz n’ Glo nighttime miniature golf, Old MacDonald’s Petting Farm (featuring pig races), and the National Presidential Wax Museum.

The skies clouded up as we approached Mount Rushmore National Memorial on this fifth anniversary of 9/11. Passed a sign advertising a “Holy Terror Day Celebration.” (?) We considered ourselves fortunate that the sun stayed out just long enough for us to take our photos of the four presidents who birthed, grew, preserved and developed the United States.

We hurried back to the car just in time.

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On towards Lead (pronounced “Leed”) in a pounding rain, which again let up long enough for us to explore this historic mining town.

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Down the hill into Deadwood. Managed to make a quick visit to the serene tree-shrouded Mt. Moriah Cemetery, set high over the town, and visit the graves of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane before the rain picked up again. Checked into the historic Hotel Bullock, built in 1879. At last, the rain moved on and we watched a mock shoot-out in the street and then strolled up and down this attractive but touristy town. Stopped for a beer at a couple of saloons, which helped persuade Jake to pose with me for an old-fashioned portrait, complete with period costumes. A South Dakota steak dinner—this time, it was great—and then back to the Bullock where we each lost $1.00 at the slots.

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Tuesday, September 12

to Red Lodge, MT

Tasty breakfast at our hotel; as the bartender told us last night, it’s the best breakfast in town. Our waitress said that the food is always fresh because they feed the large casino crowd. Took the scenic route through Spearfish Canyon; high canyon walls with dark pines that were beautiful to behold and difficult to photograph.

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I-90 to Devil’s Tower, WY. Easy to imagine the effect that this startling formation must have had on the Native Americans who first set eyes on it. Stopped to watch the prairie dogs as they hopped about and chirped to each other before driving up to the base and looking through binoculars at the strange vertical grooves of this massive peak.

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Back on I-90 to Montana and the Little Bighorn Battlefield. Drove the perimeter of the park, stopping to read the markers at each site. We were moved as we contemplated the heroism and suffering, the victory and defeat, the triumph and tragedy of this dramatic chapter of American history. On through Billings, not only the largest city in Montana, but the largest within a 500-mile radius. Noted oil refineries that defined the skyline.

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Sixty miles further brought us to Red Lodge, an old mining town and our stop for the night. We were aware of a yellow cast to the sky, which we learned later was a result of nearby forest fires that still are not under control. Found the Pollard, a restored Victorian hotel where we had reservations. Walked up and down Main Street, stopping to listen to a group playing their band instruments outside a corner bar. Had beers at the Snag, patronized by locals and bikers. Tried the local brew as well as a couple of cherry bombs (maraschino cherries soaked in Everclear) and a SoCo and Lime, much to the amusement of the bartender. Pizza and tostada dinner at Bogart’s, again patronized by locals. Being in these places off-season adds a whole new dimension.

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Wednesday, September 13

to Jackson, WY

The Pollard provided an excellent breakfast, allowing us to choose whatever we wanted from the extensive menu for no additional cost. We left town at 8:00, taking the Bear’s Tooth Highway (US 212) to Cooke City, a 65-mile journey that carried us over the precipitous Bear’s Tooth Pass at an altitude of 10, 947 feet, well above the tree line. This is the road that Charles Kuralt once called the most beautiful in America. The scenery was indeed spectacular, and one could not but marvel at the engineering miracle that made it possible to witness it. As we drove through Cooke City, we came across a buffalo, nonchalantly munching grass at the side of the road right in town. Jake turned around so that I could take a picture of him. We wondered how he ever got there.

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Entered Yellowstone National Park at the northeast entrance and drove west to Tower-Roosevelt and then south to Canyon Village where we went to Artist Point to view the lower falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Continued through the park, exiting at the south entrance. The road continued through the vast prairie and into Grand Teton National Park.

Unfortunately, the sky, though sunny, was hazy from the massive forest fires that have been raging, so our views of the mountains from Lake Jenny were not good from a photography point of view. We reached Jackson at around 3:00, proceeding immediately to Teton Village. We took the Aerial Tram to the 10,450-foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain (simply “The Mountain” to the locals.) Although we enjoyed more amazing views, the 36-mph wind caused havoc to my contacts, so we didn’t linger. Descended and enjoyed a beer at the Musty Moose below instead.

After checking into our hotel and freshening up, we set out to walk around the central square of Jackson before dinner. That was, however, until I spotted a beautiful skirt in a shop we were passing. Jake helped me decide to buy it and a top to go with it, and we just managed to get to our dinner reservations at Sweetwater in time. A short walk around the square after dinner and then we were ready for bed.

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Thursday, September 14

to Missoula, MT

Early departure to beat a disappointing weather forecast. Decided to forego the free hotel breakfast when we saw the line out the door. Drove back to Grand Teton National Park and retraced the scenic Lake Jenny route to try to improve on our pictures. This time we almost had the place to ourselves; peaceful beauty surrounded us as we beheld the mountains in the early morning sun. Drove north towards Yellowstone, passing the Continental Divide three times on our way.

Visited Old Faithful, arriving 20 minutes before her scheduled performance. Watched at the steam cloud grew, bubbling commenced, and then on queue, she erupted for us. Really neat. I noticed that the crowd consisted mainly of people from other countries; her reputation is far-reaching. Headed towards Mammoth Hot Springs, passing geyser basins and an array of thermal formations. Walked the boardwalk of Hot Springs Terraces. It was otherworldly. Thermopiles, billions of them, live on the hot chemicals in the springs, creating the most amazing colors. After a stop at the visitors’ center, where we found elk lazing in the sun to the delight of scores of camera-toting tourists, we exited the park and continued on MT 89 through the wide plains of Paradise Valley, between Gardner and Livingston.

Fortunately, we had little sense of the raging forest fires nearby.

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Rejoining I-90 we made three stops. The first, Bozeman, is the home to Montana State University and a mix of old west bars, saddle shops, cafés and restaurants.

Butte, once a rich city of 100,000 in the 1880s, now has shrunk to about 34,000. The copper, silver and gold mining have long since disappeared, leaving many tangible signs of its hey-day: wonderful Victorian buildings and evocative mine shafts that we eagerly photographed. Finally, Anaconda, the “Smelter City” that offers a window on the age of copper barons who ran the town from the 1880s to the 1950s. Dominating the town—and the landscape for miles around as well—is the 585-foot smokestack from the old copper smelting works around which the town was built. Built in 1919, it is one of the tallest freestanding brick structures in the world. We found the town to be quite depressing, but still interesting to see. We made our way further northwest towards Missoula, with a stop in Clinton. Hoped to find the renowned “Testicle Festival”, celebrating “Rocky Mountain Oysters” otherwise known as bull testicles. However, we saw nothing but an aging trailer park. Disappointed, we came on into town, checked into the hotel and headed into town to find a place for dinner. Did well with Scotty’s Table, an attractive bistro with innovative food. A good dinner and nice wine were restorative to the spirits after a very full day.

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Butte

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The Hearst Library of Anaconda, founded by Phoebe A. Hearst, who founded National Cathedral School in Washington, DC, where I attended.

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Anaconda

Friday, September 15

to Waterton National Park

Our luck skirting bad weather finally ran out as we left Missoula in a light, chilly rain. Drove along dark pine-covered hills and rocky streams on MT 200, connecting with 83, which took us up the eastern side of Flathead Lake. Passed Seeley Lake, the area memorialized by Norman McLean in A River Runs Through It. Saw enough of Big Fork and Whitefish for Jake to comment on the extensive development in these towns since he was last there, eight or nine years ago. At the head of Flathead Lake, turned east in the direction of Glacier National Park. Took the Going-to-the-Sun Road over Logan Pass, a road that snakes through the precipitous center of the Park. Built in 1922-32, Fodor’s describes it as “one of the most dizzying rides on the continent.” And indeed it was —especially in the rain and fog that grew more persistent the higher we got. By the time we reached the pass, the rain had turned to snow and the fog was so thick that it was hard to see where the road dropped off thousands of feet below. On a clear day, this must be an incredible journey. As it was, we were only able to see the bases of the great Rocky Mountains, with an occasional glimpse of a peak as the clouds parted momentarily. Roadwork that narrowed the road to a single lane at the summit did not help matters either. Descending, we exited the park, driving 20 miles to the border and entering Canada at Waterton Lakes National Park. From the entrance it was a short distance to the Prince of Wales, an Edwardian chalet perched on a bluff overlooking the length of the lake. In better times, the view must be spectacular. Our tiny room on the fifth floor (the elevator only goes as far as the fourth) must have been in the servant’s quarters when the place was built and offered absolutely no amenities, not even a hook to hang one’s clothes on. We spent a relaxing afternoon at the bar, talking and drinking Canadian ale and looking wistfully out of the huge picture windows.

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Saturday, September 16

to Valemount, BC

A cold drizzle and ice on the windshield met us as we got underway. Decided to forego the breakfast buffet at the hotel as we felt we had already vastly overpaid for what amounted to a camp cabin in the rafters. On the road through Waterton National Park, we were able to see further up the mountains than we had the day before and Jake optimistically noted, “Well, we are seeing ¾ of them.” Stopped for breakfast at a roadside café in Pincher Creek. When we arrived, there was only a party of Mennonite couples in the place, but it was hopping by the time we had finished our Belgian waffles. On Highway 22, we passed wide vistas and snow-dusted foothills under cloudy skies. Took the route suggested by a park ranger, traveling on 541 north to Longview and then meeting 40. Saw a coyote by the side of the road; Jake thought it was a fox and I was sure it was a wolf, but we later identified it at the park visitor’s center.

Just beyond the Highwood Pass (7000 ft.) we found several deer along the road. One gave me a nonchalant glance and allowed me to take its picture.

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From 40 we joined Trans Canadian Highway 1 to Banff. We found the town to be a well-maintained upscale tourist town. Jake found a place to park and looked at the map while I shopped for an alternative to my open sandals in the 32-degree air. Before leaving town, we drove up the hill to see the iconic Springs Hotel. Built in 1888 by the Canadian National Railroad, it was the social gathering place for wealthy travelers who came to Banff by train. We got back on the highway for the 40 miles to Lake Louise to see the famous view of the lake surrounded by glacial peaks, although on this day, they disappeared into the low clouds. From there, we entered Highway 93, the “Icefields Parkway” from Lake Louise to Jasper. The brochure that we picked up at the entrance asked, “How many highways can claim 230 kilometers of continuous World Heritage Site scenery completely protected in two national parks?” The parkway passes within viewing distance of seven large glaciers and about 25 smaller ones. Stopped several times along the way, including Peyto Lake, where we took a magical walk through a snow-covered pine forest.

Stopped to see Athabasca Glacier and the Columbia Icefield from a viewing platform at the visitor’s center. We learned that this glacier has lost almost a mile of area since 1844 when it was first photographed. Also stopped at Athabasca Falls, where we watched the silty waters of the river roar over a lip of quartzite and down into a narrow canyon. We ended our incredible drive at Jasper and waked along the streets of this attractive town, noticing that most of the buildings are made of rounded stones and wooden beams, which lend a classic, cozy look to the place. We headed west out of Jasper on the “Yellowhead Highway” (16), going thorough the lowest pass of the Continental Divide (3,600 ft.) and into British Columbia. From there we joined 5 heading south, stopping at Valemount for the night. We found a very reasonable hotel and enjoyed a BC wild salmon dinner at Caribou Grille.

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Sunday, September 17

to Vancouver, BC

At last! A crystal-clear morning—never mind that Jake had to take an ice scraper to the windshield. How different our views of the parks would have been had we been so fortunate yesterday. Back on Hwy 5, drove south to Kamloops where we picked up 99 through more spectacular mountain scenery. Unfortunately, our bright sky quickly assumed its familiar gray countenance so we did not stop for pictures. At Whistler, an attractive ski resort town and future site of the 2010 Olympic skiing competition, the rain started in earnest. Some kind of event was going on and there was not a parking space in sight. In addition, Jake was concerned that there was a problem with the car’s clutch so we decided to go on to Vancouver, on the part of 99 known as the Sea-to-Sky Highway, through Squamish. What should have been a spectacular gateway to Vancouver was a congested, sloppy mess. Fog shrouded Howe Sound and there was nothing to be seen of the islands and mountains that make it such a remarkable sight. After crossing Lion Head Bridge, Jake drove briefly through Stanley Park, giving me a sense of its primeval beauty. As we were driving up Georgia Avenue towards the hotel, the clutch became almost totally unusable. He turned into the street adjacent to the hotel and pulled to the curb.

That was it for the clutch. We could not believe our good fortune in making it safely to a spot next to our hotel. As soon as we got to our room, Jake was on the phone to AAA, making arrangements for a tow to the dealership. Later in the evening, we taxied to Vij’s, an Indian restaurant characterized by Mark Bittman in the New York Times as the best Indian restaurant in the world. We shared several dishes from the interesting menu and purchased the chef’s new cookbook.

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Monday, September 18

Vancouver, BC

Awoke to overcast skies; I averted my eyes from the TV weather report for the coming week. Spent the morning dealing with the car: finding a place that could make necessary repairs in a timely manner, arranging to have the car towed again, and making alternative plans for the time that it would be in the shop. Around noon, we set out to see the city.

Walked to Gastown, an attractive area of restored late 19th century buildings and gas streetlights. Stopped on the corner of Cambie Street to watch the unique steam clock hoot at 1:45. Took a water taxi to Granville Island where we walked through the market area, stacked high with an array of cheeses, sausages, fruits and vegetables. Snacked on homemade soup at an award-winning stand and then continued to explore the artisan shops located on the island. I bought a hand-woven silk scarf and photographed the weaver at her loom. Ended up at the bar of the Granville Hotel where we enjoyed sampling the beer brewed on the premises. Taxied back to the hotel for a brief stop before heading to Chinatown and dinner at Sun Sui Weh Restaurant. The huge room was filled with large groups of Chinese seated at round tables, sharing dishes from lazy Susans. We enjoyed watching the plates of giant crab and other delicacies brought to the tables. I think we shocked our waiter with the amount we ordered, and surprised him further when we managed to get through most of it. By the time we finished, the skies had opened.

We commented on our bad luck with the rain to our cab driver, but he said that in Vancouver, no one bothers about the weather, as it is always unpredictable.

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Tuesday, September 19

to Victoria, BC

Breakfast buffet at the hotel before Jake picked up our rental car, a Chevrolet Impala. Drove to Stanley Park and stopped briefly to see a collection of totem poles, staying just long enough to get a parking ticket. Explored the park’s side roads with huge trees that lined both sides. Stopped at Prospect Point for a view of the city and a photograph of the flower clock.

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Then to the University of British Columbia for a visit to the Museum of Anthropology where we saw collections of art from the aboriginal people of coastal BC. Walked among pole carvings and other large and colorful objects.

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After a quick stop at the dealership to check on the repair schedule for our car, we continued south to Tsawwassen to catch the 3:00 PM ferry to Swartz Bay. A sunny crossing as we steamed among the Gulf Islands. Before driving into Victoria, we visited Butchart Gardens, which were absolutely spectacular. The Rose Garden, the Japanese Garden, the Sunken Garden, and the Italian Garden were a brilliant mélange of color and texture and perfectly maintained. A short drive brought us into Victoria. We were delighted with our room at the Bedford—a harbor view and a fireplace and the sounds of seagulls. Went for oysters and beer at Farris Grill, a casual brick-walled place around the corner from the hotel. Walked down near the water on our way back after dinner but decided to save our exploration of Victoria for tomorrow.

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Butchart Gardens

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Wednesday, September 20

Victoria, BC

Slept well with a cool breeze and the calling of seagulls to lull us. Woke to the sound of seaplanes landing in the harbor beneath our window. Rainy again, but the forecast promised brighter days to come. Walked down Government Street; ducked into Murchies Tea Company and Munroe’s Books and continued to the Parliament building for a look inside. Visited the Royal British Colombia Museum where we particularly enjoyed the First People gallery, filled with beautiful native art, including an impressive display of Haida argillite carving.

Afternoon tea at the Empress, a tradition since 1908. A great table by the window in the attractive room; potted plants and dark wainscoting created a classic air; piano in the background added to the ambiance. Tea was a special blend for the Empress and accompanied salmon and egg sandwiches, scones and clotted cream, fresh strawberries and little cakes. Very pricey but a special treat. Walked down Antique Row, which did not amount to much, and explored a couple of shops selling Haida art and jewelry. Ended up at Irish Times, a lively Irish pub on the corner near our hotel. After deliberating over our beers, we decided to purchase a gold pendant and a Haida argillite carving that we had seen earlier in the day. While Jake held onto our seats at the bar, I ran back to the shop to buy them. The manager kindly gave us a copy of an excellent reference on argillite, now out of print, containing numerous references to the late artist who had made our piece. Jake and I stayed for fish & chips and a sandwich before returning to the hotel for an early night.

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Thursday, September 21

to Seattle, WA

Left Victoria by return BC Ferry to Vancouver. Returned the rental car and retrieved our own car from the dealership; a shocking bill to replace the clutch—our Canadian souvenir.

Drove south to Seattle, entering the US through the Peace Gate at Blaine, WA. Checked into the trendy Hotel W—a “wonderful” room, just as advertised. Great toiletries too! A bath and a rest and we were ready to go. Had an expensive drink in the hotel bar—the lobby was lighted only by candlelight—kind of fun. Walked down to the water to Etta’s Seafood at Pike Place Market for dinner. It is one of several places owned by prominent Seattle chef Tom Douglas. Crab cakes and black cod with ocean seaweed “salad” which Jake loved. Walked back past the market, which looked enticing; we will visit it in the morning. Passed numerous coffee shops; appropriate for this city so famous for Starbucks and SBC.

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Friday, September 22

Seattle, WA

Walked back down to Pike Place Market; cappuccinos and tasty little doughnuts from Daily Dozen Company. Watched the performance at the Pike Place Fish Market, as the workers in their black shirts and orange overalls yelled out to each other and tossed salmon back and forth, occasionally surprising an unsuspecting tourist by flinging a stuffed fish their way.

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Walked to Pioneer Court, an area with inviting shops located in interesting old buildings. At the Flying Shuttle, found an attractive scarf and a necklace that Jake particularly liked on me. Stood in line for lunch at Salumi, a small place specializing in cured meats. Enjoyed huge sandwiches and soup; took a molé sausage to go. Visited the environmentally-and user-friendly new $165 M public library, located on a city block near our hotel. Took time off in the afternoon to take it easy, use the Internet and rest. Sat at the satay bar at Wild Ginger for a dinner of lamb satay, pot stickers, duck, pork curry and ginger ice cream while we watched the preparation of various dishes.

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Saturday, September 23

to Port Townsend, WA

Pricey breakfast at a French café we did not realize was associated with the Fairmont Hotel; wish we had gone back to the Daily Dozen. Jake drove me back to the Pike Place Market so that I could run down to the magic shop and ask about a “Carter the Great” poster that was displayed on the wall outside. They were not open but I took down the number for future reference. Drove to the Space Needle for a photograph of this Seattle icon against a perfect blue sky. Crossed Lake Union to the University District and drove by Husky Stadium at the University of Washington. Joined I-5, driving south past Tacoma, the Boeing plant and SeaTac Airport. We got on Rt. 16 west over the Narrows Bridge, noting a new suspension bridge under construction. Drove along the water to Gig Harbor. There was some kind of doggie walk underway, complete with a flea market (aptly named, as Jake noted.) Continued to Bremerton and its naval facilities at Keysport, and through Scandinavian-influenced Poulsbo (“Velcommen, Tourists” on a sign that insured correct pronunciation.) Views of Mt. Rainer and Olympic Mountains as we went along. Over the floating Hood Canal Bridge and into Port Townsend. Had a difficult time finding our hotel and finally had to call for directions. Turned out that their information on the web was totally false; the hotel is well outside of town (not “only blocks from shopping, dining and all manner of activities”) and the “spectacular view” consisted of a few boats on trailers in a commercial boatyard across the street. The guest services book lists “A Gideon Bible is provided in your nightstand drawer” as an amenity. Went first to Fort Worden State Park, where Officer and a Gentleman was filmed. Drove to Port Townsend and found a place to park.

Walked around the town, photographing attractive Victorian buildings and water views and perusing the shops. The town seemed seedy; maintenance needed and shops looked as if they had seen better days. Local beers at Watertown Brewery and Belmont Hotel. Dinner at Silverwater on Taylor Street: local Dungeness crab that was really fresh and good. Back to the hotel, finding the place overrun by a huge crowd of bikers.

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Sunday, September 24

to Astoria, OR

Got away at 7:30 in brilliant sun and drove to Port Angeles where we had eggs and pancakes at Cornerhouse Café; apparently a popular place with locals.

Entered Olympic National Park and drove to Hurricane Ridge for stunning views of the craggy, snow-capped Olympic Mountains from the 5700-ft. ridge.

Had to retrace the road back to Port Angeles before proceeding west, passing Crescent Lake. Stopped to photograph mountains reflected in the still water.

The way was unpopulated and heavily forested, except for ugly spots of clear-cut. Entered the park again, taking the road to the Hoh Rain Forest. Walked the mile-long Moss Trail, where we saw fallen, decaying giant spruce, which had become home to new growth, clothed in moss and accented with delicate fungi.

Many species of ferns as well, creating a Grimm-life magical forest primordial. Felt the variance in temperatures, as waves of warm, moist air wafted over us.

Also noticed the aromas of dampness and new growth.

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Ruby Beach

Again, had to retrace the road out before we continued on Rt. 101 to Ruby Beach, one of the Olympic Peninsula’s most beautiful stretches of coastline. Followed a short path to the beach where sea stacks, tidal pools, and the jumble of bony driftwood and sea-polished stones shone through the mist from ocean waves. No wonder the place is a favorite of artists, beachcombers and photographers. Back on 101, south through the lumber towns of Hoquiam, Aberdeen and Raymond.

Continued to see heartbreaking evidence in clear-cut areas that Jake observed looked like giant garbage dumps. Crossed the Columbia River into Astoria, Oregon by way of the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Took a room at the Elliott, an attractive 1924 hotel on the National Register.

Watched the sun set as we enjoyed seafood dinners at the Cannery Café, located on the pilings of an old cannery down on the water.

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Monday, September 25

to Bandon, OR

Didn’t need an alarm clock, as the municipal garbage service picked up a dumpster full of bottles beneath our window at 5:15. When I looked out of the window, Venus greeted me, indicating another crystal-clear morning. Away at 8:00, continuing south on Rt. 101, down the Oregon coast. Stopped first at Seaside, a resort town where Lewis and Clark finally reached the Pacific. Saw the bronze statue of the two, as they gazed out over the ocean. Then to Cannon Beach, an upscale alternative to Seaside for Portland weekenders, located 10 miles south. Pristine village, the buildings constructed of weathered cedar shingles. Took pictures of Haystack Rock, the 235-foot monolith that is supposedly the most photographed feature of the Oregon coast. Enjoyed sweeping vistas as we continued to Tillamook, home of the famous cheese. Fields of cattle; cows with noticeably engorged udders. Lots of fishermen in the salt water flats as we passed. Took the Three Capes Scenic Loop, a 35-mile byway off 101 that Fodor calls “One of the coast’s most thrilling driving experiences.” Came first to Cape Meare. Drove to the state park parking lot and took a short walk to the lighthouse, built in 1890, it commands an amazing view over the cliffs and caverns below. Drove through several tourist towns that dot the coast. Lunch at Sea Hag in DePoe—famous clam chowder that appears in the NY Times Heritage Cookbook. There was a party going on in the back room that involved the Chicken Song being performed on partly filled glasses of water. Views of the 19th century Yaquina Head Lighthouse perched on a rocky peninsula. On the guanoencrusted Pinnacle and Colony rocks, saw hundreds of birds; a whale arched in the waters below. At Cape Perpetua, walked down near the Devil’s Churn to watch as the waves pushed up out of a cleft in the rocks. At another turnout, found a pretty view of Heceta Head Lighthouse with its red roof, off on a distant cliff. Heard the sound of honking and looked down to find a huge number of sea lions cavorting on the rocks below. Drove up to another lighthouse at Umpqua, overlooking the south side of Winchester Bay. Just north of Brandon we pulled off at Bullards Beach State Park and followed a 2-mile road through the Bandon Marsh to the 1896 Coquille Lighthouse. There, in the dying sea grass, we found it standing lonely sentinel at the mouth of the river. As the afternoon was moving into early evening, it created a deeply evocative image. Across a drawbridge and into Bandon, we were fortunate to find an available room at the attractive Bandon Inn, set on a hill above the town.

Dinner on the water at the High Dock Bistro for more local seafood.

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Tuesday, September 26

to Ashland, OR

Deciding that we had traveled far enough south on 101 to get a sense of the rugged Oregon coast, we turned inland on Highway 42 and picked up I-5 in Winston. Drove south to Ashland. We had tried to get reservations earlier at the 1925 Ashland Springs Hotel but were assured that the hotel was fully booked. However, as we walked around the attractive resort town, we passed the hotel and decided to try one more time. They indeed had had a cancellation and could offer us a lovely corner room, which we were delighted to take. The day was clear and bright and it was a pleasant break to take our time exploring the town and looking in the interesting shops and galleries. Ended up buying a small chine collet print by Oregon artist Yuri Hiratsuka at a small gallery. Also found a black hand-woven jacket at Websters, a shop specializing in weaving and wearable art by Pacific Northwest artists. Stopped in at Standing Stone Brewing Company for local brews and lunch. Back at our room we took naps and I enjoyed a luxurious bath—heavenly. In the evening, we walked up to the “bricks” in front of the theaters and listened to an outdoor concert of Jacques Brel songs sung by a woman with a two-man musical accompaniment. While most went on to the theater that Ashland is known for, we had a prix-fixe dinner at Chateaulin, a cozy polished wood and etched glass fin-desiecle restaurant near our hotel.

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Wednesday, September 27

to Corvallis, OR

The hotel provided a nice breakfast on the mezzanine, which we enjoyed before checking out. Took OR 62 to Crater Lake, paralleling the Rogue River most of the way. Noted that the mountains were not as precipitous as those we had seen earlier. Entered Crater National Park from the south, driving the east Rim Drive and stopping to view the lake from different vantage points. Five miles wide and ringed by cliffs almost 2,000 feet high, the lake rests in the shattered remnants of Mt. Mazama, which erupted and collapsed into itself 7,700 years ago. At 1,943 feet, it is one of the deepest lakes in the world. The water is amazingly blue and still, and I found looking into it to be strangely calming. Exited the park to the north and connected with US 97 to Bend. Visited the High Desert Museum, three miles south of the city. It boasts intricately crafted walk-through dioramas of Indian and pioneer life that capture the sights, sounds and even smells of various historical periods. The Desertarium showcases smaller desert animals and birds of prey. The place made us wish that our grandchildren were with us to enjoy it too. Explored Bend (pop. 75,000) by car; Jake was amazed at how it had grown in the 10 years since his last visit. Had a late lunch at Deschutes Brew Pub. I tried their award-winning Mirror Pond pale ale and bought one of their fleece vests with its logo to commemorate my graduation from wheat beer. Took OR 20 to Albany, deciding to bypass Eugene. Along the way, we saw evidence of forest fires that was somewhat offset by brilliant orange, yellow and red bushes that dotted the darkened hillsides. Driving over Tombstone Pass (4,240 feet), we descended to the Willamette Valley. Outside of Albany, passed field upon field of crop grass that justify the town’s designation as “The Grass Seed Capital of the World.” Changed our minds about spending the night there after driving around the rather depressed downtown area and continued 11 miles to Corvallis. Got a sense of the home of Oregon State University by driving through the attractive campus. Had no luck finding an interesting place to stay, or to eat for that matter. At 7:30, decided on a clean-looking Super 8. Dinner next door at Michael’s Landing which, although earning a rating in Fodor’s, was only satisfactory.

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Crater Lake

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Thursday, September 28

to McMinnville, OR

A crisp fall morning; could not be a nicer day for our exploration of the wine

a couple of bottles of Lazy River Pinot Noir. Our next stop was the Carlton

country in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Got on OR 99W; the flat fields of

Depot, a tasting room located in the restored train station in the historic town

grass gave way to gently rolling hills. Horses grazed behind white fences and

of Carlton. Jake had a grand time there, and we left with six bottles of Ken

lavender fields lined the road. Picked up 22E to Salem and then 221 to the

Wright’s white wines. Our final winery was Archery Summit, a beautiful estate

wine country. Paused for photos at Cristom Winery, passed others as well as

set up on a hill in the midst of beautifully manicured vineyards. We arrived five

a large Christmas tree farm on our way into McMinnville. Paid a visit to the

minutes before the gate was closed and were just in time to share a flight of

Chamber of Commerce for brochures and guidance for our winery tour.

their delicious Pinot Noirs. Before departing, we paused to photograph the

Drove to Lafayette, and then up Mineral Springs Road to Anne Amie

views and take close-up pictures of the grapes, ready for harvest. Driving back

Vineyard. Tasted a flight of Pinot Noirs, bought two bottles and we were on

to McMinnville, we checked into the quirky Oregon Hotel, a 1905 lodging

our way. Upon the recommendation of that winery, we went next to

house that has been imaginatively restored by the McMenamin brothers.

Domaine Drouhin, founded in 1988 by the famous winemaking family of

Original artwork and historic photographs filled the hallways and surprised the

Burgundy. The wine is hand-crafted by Veronique Drouhin, a fourth-

visitor in unexpected places. Our corner room had once been the Ladies’

generation winemaker. Again we tasted and bought a Chardonnay and

Parlor, and the walls were decorated with a painting of how it must have

another Pinot Noir. We drove a short distance to Dundee for lunch at Tina’s,

looked, as well as this painted description of the parlor: “…bedecked with

an intimate and unpretentious country-French restaurant on Hwy. 99.

cascading floor length lace curtains, gas lamps, ornate rocking chairs, rich

Although the lunch menu was somewhat scaled down, the food was delicious.

patterned carpet, ostrich feathers, potted plants and an upright piano.” But

We started with corn soup, which was as comforting as any food could be. I

today, it was more adapted to appease a gentleman’s taste as well. We were

had a salad bursting with fresh greens, local blue cheese and hazelnuts and

charmed with everything but the fact that we had to share the bathroom with

perfect pears from the area. We also sampled two more Willamette Valley

the room next door. We had a cool drink in the hotel’s kitchy bar before

Pinot Noirs. After lunch we walked across the street to the Ponzi Vineyard

going next door for dinner at Nick’s Italian Restaurant. Showing a similar mish-

Tasting Room but found it touristy and decided to move on instead to the

mash of decorations, Nick’s nonetheless had an excellent prix-fixe menu and

Carleton Winemakers Studio (“Just plain cool” according to Food and Wine

showcased a number of local wines, and we found it a good choice for our

magazine) where we tasted samples from their tenant winemakers and bought

evening in the Willamette Valley.

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Friday, September 29

to Mountain Home, ID

Through Portland on I-5; fog hung over the city but little problem with rush hour traffic. To I-84, paralleling the Columbia River that divides Washington and Oregon, with Mt. Hood to the south and Mt. Helens to the north. Could see Multnomah Falls from the freeway, a 620-ft. high double decker torrent. Exited at Hood River to Lost Lake for a famous view of Mt. Hood. Due to my lack of map reading skills, much more of a detour than we had anticipated Followed a winding road through apple and pear orchards and up into a lush fall-colored forest for 26 miles to the point where it ended at the lake. Had the place to ourselves; as we walked down to the water’s edge, it was totally silent. The view of towering Mt. Hood and the thick forest reflected in the still waters was magnificent. Not sure that Jake fully agreed with me that this was worth the 1½ hour side trip, however. On the way back to the Interstate, stopped at McCurdy’s Farm roadside fruit stand and bought apples and pears fresh from the surrounding orchards. As we continued east on I-84, still following the Columbia, it was interesting to watch the landscape becoming more arid. We eventually left the riverbed and ascended to a plateau with irrigated fields of grain and grasslands for grazing. For miles and miles the road gently curved through hills of uninhabited scrub. Passing Ontario, at the very edge of Oregon, we saw the huge Ore-Ida Company, home of Tater Tots.

Into Idaho, we drove another 55 miles to Boise, a sprawling city of 190,000. Southern Idaho is empty and flat. Clearing Boise as we had planned, we stopped for the night in Mountain Home, an additional 50 miles or so down the road. Unpretentious motel and steak dinner and beer at AJ’s Restaurant next door.

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At McCurdy’s Farm Fruit stand, we bought fruit fresh from the trees around us. We were fortunate that we were there during one of the “Fruit Loop” weekends when all the growers are out offering their harvest. The pears were especially juicy and good!

We also bought a bottle of locally made eau de vie.

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Saturday, September 30

to Saratoga, WY

Got away at 7:00, before sunrise. As the day brightened, we saw miles and

wasted no time exploring this little village, tucked away in a valley formed by

miles of sagebrush, occasionally broken by an irrigated field of green. Stopped in

the Snowy Range and the Sierra Madre mountains. The main street was an

Jerome, ID for breakfast and to give the sun time to rise to visor level. Flying J

attractive recreation of a 19th century western town and we poked into several

truck stop provided a gigantic breakfast for $6.99 and teamster ambiance

shops that lined both sides. Perhaps most interesting was Hat Creek Saddlery

(“Shower number 168 is now available” over the intercom). Followed I-84 as it

and Trading Post, carrying everything a real cowboy would need, from chaps to

turned south to Utah. Passing Twin Falls, we got a glimpse of the black and

saddles to spurs. They even had a bear trap for $320. We went down to the

bumpy volcanic fields that characterize Craters of the Moon National

hot springs on the edge of town, but rather than undressing for the full

Monument. Desolate, arid land continued to spread out before us as we

experience, I waded into the Platte River just to feel the intriguing difference in

crossed the Wyoming state line, heading east on I-80. Could not believe how

temperature between the main current and the hot springs. Admired the

many trucks on the road; semis far outnumbered any other type of vehicle.

golden aspen trees reflected in the river. Checked into our hotel; nothing fancy

Gassed up at Love’s in Wamsutter, (pop. 68). We decided to bypass Rawlins,

but we were lucky to get a room, for apparently the whole town was booked

just a few miles down the road. In Fodor’s I read that “although declines in

for what might be the last nice weekend of the season. At 7:00 went back to

sheep raising and downturns in regional mineral production had had a negative

the main street and had a drink at Lazy River Cantina before going to the Wolf

impact on the economy, there were still railroad workers and employees of the

Hotel for dinner in their Victorian-inspired dining room. Mediocre prime rib

Wyoming State Penitentiary” to keep things rolling in town. Additionally, we

with potato in foil, butter and sour cream in wrappers and lackluster service.

could have visited Carbon County Museum and seen “a pair of shoes made

We ordered a bottle of wine and the waitress asked, “Do you want two glasses

from the skin of Big Nose George Parrott” when “he was ultimately skinned…

with that?” Afterwards we went back across the street to the Cantina where

after he attempted to escape from the county jail.” Although that, and a glimpse

we found great seats at the bar and listened to Rimrock, a local band, play

of the Death House, part of a tour of the Wyoming Frontier Jail, sounded like

“Brown-Eyed Girl” and other country favorites while we watched local color: a

can’t-miss attractions, we nonetheless decided to take WY 130 south 21 miles

wedding party, groups of young studs in cowboy hats and older women out for

to Saratoga for the night. It was after 4:00 when we pulled into town, so we

a good time.

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Sunday, October 1

to Cheyenne, WY

We drove towards Encampment in the early morning; the sun shining on the changing leaves cast a golden glow on the countryside. Crossed into Colorado, taking state road 14 towards Steamboat Springs. Vast areas of ranch land, cattle peacefully grazing. At the Steamboat Springs turnoff, ascended through Rabbit Ear Pass (9570 ft.), passing forests of dark spruce and golden aspen; patches of snow on the ground. Coffee at a fancy McDonalds in Steamboat Springs that looked like a ski lodge. Found the town to be a well-developed modern resort with extensive indoor and outdoor facilities. Returned by the same road, pausing to take photos of the fall colors descending to the lake in the valley far below. Continued on scenic roads towards Rocky Mountain National Park, driving through Byers Canyon, a deep gorge with dramatic jagged rocks on both sides. Entered the park at Grand Lake at 11:45; wished we had those clear skies of earlier that morning, for although it was still sunny, the mountains had developed a cloudy backdrop. We climbed the highest road of our trip, the Trail Ridge Road, up to 12,183 feet at Gore Range turnout. Views of the mighty Rockies, dusted with snow, were magnificent. Exited the park at Beaver Meadows at 2:30 and immediately became entrenched in a traffic jam around Estes Park. Some kind of affair was going on there, and people were everywhere. As we made our way east on CO 36, we determined that the line of traffic into town extended more than 7 miles (where were they all going to go once they got into town?) making it hard to enjoy the scenic gorges that we drove though. We joined I-25 and continued north to Cheyenne, seeing both a brush fire and a mini sandstorm in the 70-mile trip. Checked into our hotel and enjoyed a rest and shower. At 5:30, drove to First Presbyterian Church where we met Bob Garrard, my old pastor from River Forest Pres. Bob introduced us to the new members class he was teaching, gave us a tour of his 1925 sanctuary and then took us home. We joined Bob and Holly and the church Mission Committee for dinner at Little America Resort. Good conversation and a wonderful time to re-connect.

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Monday, October 2

to Grinnell, IA

Time to start the trip back to Chicago. After checking out, took a corny picture of Jake by a giant cowboy boot in front of the hotel. Got on I-80 and made our way east through the state of Nebraska. Breakfast at a Perkins in Sidney, NE; great cinnamon muffins. Then mile upon mile of the great wide open, listening to classical music. Passed Buffalo Bill’s Ranch in North Platte and several pony express stations. Saw a prayer along the side of the road, painted in white on a series of tires nailed to a fence: “Jesus…Touch…my heart…Change me…Touch me…Amen.” Grasslands became irrigated cornfields; cattle and even some llamas grazing.

Passed under a kitchy “Great Platte Riverbend Archway” built over the Interstate—(Perhaps a pork barrel project that didn’t quite take off?) Gas near Minden; took a picture of an evocative red barn nearby. At 4:30, crossed into Iowa and noted that almost immediately the flatness of Nebraska became gently rolling farmlands, with squares of corn interspersed with green fields dotted with freshly baled hay. Red barns and silver silos off in the distance; I was reminded of Grant Wood’s paintings of the Iowa countryside. Saw a sign for John Wayne’s birthplace in DeSoto, and an Antique Tractor Engine Show sign painted on the side of an old trailer carcass in a field. Stopped for the night in Grinnell, between Des Moines and Iowa City. Driving into town, we photographed Merchant’s National Bank (one of the “Jewel Box” banks) designed by Louis Sullivan in 1914, and other lovely buildings on Commercial Street, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Drove through the campus of Grinnell College, founded in 1846, finding some nice old buildings intermixed with uninspired new architecture. Had beer and pizza at George’s on Main Street. Through it all, we were amazed that the campus—and the town—were almost completely devoid of people. The streets were absolutely empty. Kind of eerie. Found a hotel next to the highway for an easy departure in the morning for our final leg home.

Tuesday, October 3

to Chicago

Awoke to the sun rising over the Iowa cornfields. Reorganized the car in preparation for our arrival back home and headed east on I-80 for the last stretch.

Interesting that as we crossed over the Mississippi River and into Illinois, those rolling Iowa farmlands flattened out again. Took I-88, and after passing Dixon, Ronald Reagan’s boyhood home, it was a fast trip into Chicago and home to 1320.

To give a sense of the varied conditions that we encountered on our 7766-mile journey, these are some of the road signs that we passed along the way:

Pavement Ends, Steep Grade, Sunken Grade, Slides, Elk Crossing, Deer Crossing, Open Range, Livestock, Rough Road, Loose Gravel, Abrupt Change Ahead, Falling Rocks, Avalanches, Tsunami Area, Log Trucks, Bumps, Dust Storm Area, Frequent High Winds, Road damage Ahead, and Expect Cows in the Road.

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