Tanzanian Jungle Tigers

Born and brought up in Africa, the appeal of fishing a remote river valley in Tanzania, for one of Africa’s most iconic freshwater species, the tigerfish, was never going to be one that I could resist.

What is the draw? What makes sets Tanzania apart? Hydrocynus tanzaniae. One of five species of tigerfish and endemic to Tanzania, tigerfish in these river systems grow to significant size and the record (non-IGFA) is a 28 lb fish, landed in 2014 by Andrew Thomas on the Ruhudji. They have a distinctive gunmetal blue adipose fin and are, in the main, less bright than their more common cousin, Hydrocynus vittatus which has a much wider distribution throughout Africa and would be your target species fishing further south on the Okavango and on the Zambezi.

Tigerfish in these river systems grow to significant size and the record (non-IGFA) is a 28 lb fish.

Thankfully, Tanzania is one destination where the charter flight limit isn’t difficult to make. Flies take up the majority of my allowance. Clothing can be kept to a minimum as laundry is done daily. I travel with two 9′ 9# rods for tigerfish (one Hardy Proaxis and one Hardy Zephrus) and a 9′ 5# Hardy Proaxis if conditions are right to target yellowfish. Reels are two Hardy Fortuna X2s and my elderly Hardy Demon. I have two spare Sci Angler 350 grain sinking lines, 1 spare Airflo tropical floating line (Airflo work well in the heat) and an intermediate line that I’ve never used but take just in case.

A beautiful specimen of Hydrocynus Tanzaniae, Tanzania's endemic tigerfish.

On the leader front, a full spool of 45 lb green Maxima and a couple of packets of knottable wire. Having spent the night in Dar-es-Salaam, the following morning, before the city is fully awake, you head back to the airport for your flight down to camp. Two hours later, the empty spaces give way to small patches of cultivation and tiny villages before they make way for the mountains. Beyond the mountains we caught glimpses of rivers – not yet one of ours – and finally, I saw the emerald green on the wetland and knew we couldn’t be far away. With one fly over to make sure the runway was clear we passed over the vehicles heading from camp to the runway before descending towards our little strip of dirt. Wheels down. Dust in the air.

What I find particularly captivating about fishing here is that with two rivers to fish, the Mnyera and the Ruhudji, the team of eight splits in two and one group head off to the Ruhudji while the other team remain on the Mnyera. I was to fish the Ruhudji first and loaded up, we set off. The drive to the Ruhudji river valley takes you through Miombo woodland, through dry riverbeds, open plains, tall grassland and riverine forest and starts with a bush style river crossing. On the way, we saw bushbuck, waterbuck, red hartebeest and several groups of warthogs and numerous species of birds.

The Ruhudji is special. On my first trip I caught two 12 lb fish one after the other, on the swing, in consecutive little riffles behind clumps of phragmites.

The Ruhudji is special. On my first trip I caught two 12 lb fish one after the other, on the swing, in consecutive little riffles behind clumps of phragmites. Both came in hot and hard on a little blue and white bait fish pattern. Anywhere else in Africa, a 12 lbs fish is a fish to be justifiably proud of and it is worth hanging on to that thought because in Tanzania, fish under 10 lbs are considered small.

The Ruhudji is a beautiful river. Like the Mnyera it is wide but it has more form, more structure and with the shallower water and the larger sand banks, it somehow seems lighter. The camp on the Ruhudji is a very simple one but there is something truly special about it. There is a small communal reed structure as you drive in and beyond that two Meru style safari tents with ensuite flushing loo and shower. Down on the sand bank, a long canvas tent provides cover for all your meals and beyond that, camps chairs around the fire for an evening of fish tales. Simple in the extreme, this river calls to the adventurer, no matter how deeply buried.

Like all freshwater game fish, tigerfish don’t like pressure changes. It doesn’t really seem to matter what the weather is doing as long as it is constant. Hot and still is favourite but consistency is key. Whilst on the Ruhudji, the pressure was constantly changing and I was getting little taps to the fly but with few serious commitments.

Perfect shot of a trophy Tanzanian tiger.

With several fish landed, ranging from 5 lbs to 8 lbs, I was praying for more settled weather. At the tillers, our boatmen Six and Sayedi moved us around with a skill that only comes with many years on the river. You need to land your fly as close as you can to the structure as the bigger fish will be lurking within. That inevitably means that you regularly hook up to tree trunks and limbs but the trick is to get your fly moving fast as soon as it hits the water. It prevents you hooking into the immediate structure but the initial splash will have garnered interest and you need to capitalise on that with a fast moving fly.

Leaving the Ruhudji, we made our way back to the Mnyera where we crossed paths once more with the other group. The camp on the Mnyera is permanent, used by anglers for a few months every year. It is still very simple and is comfortable enough but most importantly, it is the gateway to another phenomenal river system.

A wide river, the Mnyera lacks the form of the Ruhudji and to me “feels” bigger and darker. The trees are more imposing, the structure in the river seems bigger. Birdlife on both rivers is incredible but seems more prolific on the Mnyera. We had the most incredible luck seeing Pel’s Fishing Owl, three times in two days. Another avian treat were the Palmnut Vultures that are a rarity elsewhere. Weaver bird nests line the riverbanks and the cry of the African Fish Eagle is the sound of “home”. As you move between pools and seam lines, you have constant aerial activity around you while storks and egrets stalk the shallow water for baitfish.

The "Stu's Blue" pattern, simple yet very effective.

By now, the pressure had settled and on the second afternoon, my flies were obviously tempting, my hooks were sharp and the fishing gods smiling on me. In what seemed like quick succession I had landed a 9 lb and a 10 lb fish and then a few hours later, I landed a 12 lb and 14 lb fish in quick succession – all of them on “Stu’s Blue”, a simple blue and white baitfish pattern.

Happy to sit down and leave the rest of the day to my boat partner, I flicked my fly towards the bank for one last half-hearted cast and BOOM. A 15 lb fish nailed that rather beaten up fly. It was an afternoon I will remember for a very long time. What was interesting was that the three fish had all spawned so add 2lbs – 4lbs per fish and they were edging up towards that magic trophy number.

You better watch your fingers with these aquatic demons !

Looking back, the frustration of those tough days early day on the Ruhudji was quickly forgotten. I didn’t get as many hits as my boat partner, Ronnie, but I was happy with my conversion rate. I stick them hard, keep the line tight and don’t let them run. You don’t play a Tanzanian tigerfish on the reel, in fact there’s no ‘playing’ at all – you have to bring them in hard. Everyone has their own technique and mine works for me. I’m right handed and between strips, clamp down hard on the line with my first two fingers and release pressure only slightly as I strip line in. That way the line is tight as I bring my hand back up to strip again. If I get a hit then, I can set with the rod as my left hand comes back up the fly line.

Keep the rod low, be ready for the jump and keep the tension on. The take is hard and the fight brutal but rewarding.

Uniquely among the African tigerfish, the Tanzaniae tiger has a blue adipose fin, while other species have a black one.

With reasonable clarity, conditions were perfect for a popper. Watching a popper that isn’t popping, but disturbing, the water is mesmerising. Watching the blunt nose of the fly pushing water ahead of it, listening to the sound of line running through fingers. Pick up, cast again and repeat. Watch, listen. Pick up, cast again. Watch the water moving, listen to the line. When the explosion comes you are rocked out of your somnambulant state by the sheer power of the fish hitting the fly.

A beautiful 15 lb fish rounded off my week and looking back, any week that sees tigerfish of 8 lb, 9 lb, 10 lb, 11 lb, 12 lb, 14 lb, 15 lb, 18 lb and a magical 20 lb fish landed is truly extraordinary. It is a truly unique experience, a stunning destination with the ultimate quarry and I can’t wait to go back.

TRIP CONTACT

Aardvark McLeod specialise in fly fishing holidays worldwide, in both freshwater and saltwater. Closer to home, they offer day tickets, guiding and multi-day trips.For more information you can contact them:

Email: mail@aardvarkmcleod.com

Tel: +44 (0) 1980 847389

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