Flavors of My Heritage: Exploring the Nyonya Cuisine of Malaysian Cooking

By Chef Alice Koh

As a Malaysian-born citizen brought up with the wisdom of generations of women who were skilled in cooking (especially my mother), I enjoyed an upbringing of food influenced by the fusion of cultures that make up one of the most peaceful and multicultural regions in the world. The types of food available in Malaysia reflect the diverse traditions of Malay, Chinese, Indian, Nyonya, Thai, Indonesian, and many other ethnic groups with hints of European influences.

I am a Straits-Born Chinese, also known as Peranakan (local-born). I was born in the historical state of Malacca but was raised and educated in the suburb of Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. The Peranakan men are called Baba and the women, Nyonya. The Peranakans are the descendants of early 15th-century Chinese migrants who settled in Phuket, Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia. The Chinese traders married the local women and adapted to their local cultures. These intermarriages have produced one of the iconic cuisines in Malaysia and Singapore, popularly known as the Nyonya food.

Let me give you a bit of historical background on influences that give Malaysian Nyonya food the flavors it embodies today.

Nyonya cooking blends Chinese ingredients with local and Indian spices and cooking techniques of the Malay and Indonesian communities. The Nyonya food is an interpretation of Malay/Indonesian food influenced by Chinese, Indian, Thai, and Eurasian. Most Nyonya food is spicy, tangy, aromatic and uses a lot of fresh, local herbs. The Nyonyas are also known for our colorful and decadent desserts. Presentation is key; each morsel of food must be a feast for the eyes first, paying attention to details and blending flavors.

I grew up learning how to start a fire from my dad using sun-dried coconut shells to grill chicken satay.

I love cooking Nyonya food and incorporating inspiration from my mom and past generations into every dish. My parents loved hosting lunches most Sundays with relatives. I grew up learning how to start a fire from my dad using sun-dried coconut shells to grill chicken satay (skewers). The smoky flavor of the meat was exquisite! There are so many dishes I enjoy cooking but Nyonya Pineapple Shrimp Curry is very special to me because it was often cooked by my mom. She was able to prepare this dish with me even as she struggled with the ending stages of Alzheimer's. My cooking today is a tribute to her.

ABOUT CHEF ALICE KOH

Chef Alice Koh was born in Malaysia and raised in the suburbs of Kuala Lumpur. She started working as a chef in Phuket, Thailand and where she owned her own fine dining restaurant. She now shares the joy of Malaysian food and culture with the Spokane community as a chef-partner at Feast World Kitchen and through her catering business, SeraiMas. Learn more at seraimas.com or follow her on Facebook at facebook.com/SeraiMas.