10 minute read

MAMMA MIA!

1 perfection on the tongue. A particular favourite of ours was ‘roots’, which pairs the perhaps unlikely combination of celeriac, truffle, lettuce and sumac to create a harmonious marriage of flavours that is reminiscent of smoked meat. Meanwhile, home-made open ravioli, chargrilled corn and herbs come together for the Granoturco, which is elevated comfort food at its finest.

Located at the Address Sky Views in Downtown Dubai, Lucia’s promises an Italian experience of charm and sophistication paired with fun. Designed in Italian tones of lemon yellow and sky blue, the restaurant also has an outdoor terrace where live music entertains you as the evening progresses. When it comes to food, it does not disappoint. The carpaccio di Manzo, made with seared Kiwami Wagyu eye round beef, had extremely clean flavours with nothing more than Parmesan, rocket leaves and a balsamic vinegar dressing. We opted for pasta as a main and can recommend the tagliatelle alla Bolognese di Wagyu as a filling option. Share the Lucia’s tiramisu – there’s plenty to go around, but you might be fighting for the last bite!

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The outdoor terrace at Lucia’s Dubai at the Address Sky Views offers stunning views; Marea Dubai’s Granoturco (open ravioli, chargrilled corn and herbs); rolled beef cecina; Social’s chef Carmine Faravolo; the tiramisu at Lucia’s is great for sharing.

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Chef Yunus Emre Aydin has launched a 10-course tasting menu at Marea Dubai honouring a variety of Italian ingredients through his creative lens. And while it seems like a lot, the delicate portions pack quite a punch. The journey starts with the chef’s take on the classic Margherita, which sets the scene for what is to come. The ‘carabaccia’, with caramelised onion, truffle, pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano, is an homage to the onion soup that has origins in Roman times and is absolute

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For a novel dining experience, book a table in Chef Carmine Faravolo’s kitchen at Social inside the Waldorf Astoria on the Palm. Chef Carmine hails from the South of Italy and learnt to cook from his grandmother, Nonna Maria. His dishes are rooted in tradition, but go expecting more molecular, playful, innovative creations – that are most importantly, delicious. Our meal started with an amusebouche series – what really stood out was the rolled beef cecina (dried beef) stuffed with a cheese mousse and topped with chives, lime and pomegranate gels. His stone-baked bread and Parmigiana are both nods to his Nonna. And the chef’s take on tonno e vitello (with tuna, veal, anchovies, capers and white radish) not only looks beautiful, but is also full of flavour and textures. Sitting in the heart of the kitchen is great fun – you really feel part of the action.

Inside Scoop

It’s time to treat yourself and beat the heat this summer with artisanal gelatos that are bursting with flavour and creativity; we share our favourites to frequent!

Gelato: This home-grown business offers flavours you really won’t find elsewhere – in addition to the classics – and does it in style by partnering with other local businesses such as Mirzam Chocolate and Arab pitmaster Hattem Mattar.

2 Cento% Gelato: While you’ll find your share of Italian classic gelato flavours here, Cento% is also a great place to try something different like Lotus biscoff and coconut gelatos. Don’t miss the traditional Italian espresso cafe served with gelato and whipped cream.

3 Massimo’s Gelato: An authentic Italian gelateria, Massimo’s creates gelato flavours with ingredients sourced directly from Italy. With classic flavours like chocolate, vanilla and hazelnut on the menu, Stracciatella’s simplicity definitely shines.

The first branch of Pitfire Pizza is an unassuming cosy spot in Dubai’s Jumeirah Lakes Towers where co-founders and husband-wife duo Bill and Michele Johnson started their pie empire.

The obsession with pizza started early on for Bill, at around 11 years of age. But his affinity with pizza has a richer past; his grandfather was a German baker in New York and those memories stay vivid in his mind.

“I have these memories of being around him, with smells of freshly baked German breads. There’s a bit of a propensity there, the connection with pizza and the dough. We are a pizzeria, but we’re really bakers,” he says.

Bill eventually went on to study hotel and restaurant management but left that world for corporate life, while Michele was a HR director before her pizza reign began. After a stint in Kuala Lumpur, the duo moved to the UAE in 2007 and started executing the pizza dream in 2010.

Michele adds, “It was something that we’ve always talked about. We both needed to go corporate out of university; there was no way we had enough money to fund a restaurant. But it was something that Bill never quit talking about. When we got to Dubai, we had 10 years’ [experience] of being expats. We found a business-friendly and expat-friendly business environment here that has good checks and balances in place – and we also realised there was no good pizza here.”

From devouring books about dough and pizza and even attending a pizza expo in Las Vegas, a lot went on before the first branch was even opened. And now the duo is set to open their sixth outlet in Dubai. Bill says, “Every industry, whether it’s airlines or automobiles or restaurants, is all about segmentation. And segmentation is understanding where you fit within the pizzeria industry. A lot of that is dictated by your style and what type of oven you’re using.” He describes the pizza style as having the visuals of a Neapolitan pizza (with big puffy char crusts and “funked up” toppings) blended with a New York-style pizza for a longer bake.

The co-founders are grateful for the relationships they’ve developed through this business and witnessing the passion that people have for restaurants. That’s not to say they didn’t face challenges along the way, not in the least trying to operate a full, busy operation from a 378 square foot space. “Suppliers won’t give you any attention and your food costs are really high. It’s really hard to get employees to come to work for you because they come to your space and they think, ‘what is this?’ And you start out doing all of it yourself so you’re on a learning curve.

Fortunately, Michele and I have complementary skill sets so we’re a really great team and that’s been something that really led to the success of our company long-term, which is going to be 10 years old next year,” says Bill.

The success of Pitfire Pizza can be seen with the popularity of its pizzas (approximately 3,000 pizzas every Friday, reveals Bill), the obsession over the brand’s garlic knots (an appetizer made with the pizza dough that has a dedicated fan following), and the multitude of awards over the years (including, most recently winner of the Best Pizzeria title at the Time Out Dubai Restaurant Awards 2023).

Michele reveals that the three best-selling pizzas are the Pepperoni Primo, the Margherita and the Truff Daddy (“because Dubai loves truffle”). She does say that with the last one, it took her a long time to launch a pizza with truffle on the menu because she doesn’t particularly like that ingredient. “When we create a pizza, we really want to do something that no one else is doing. There’s a lot of truffle pizza out there, but there’s not one like the Truff Daddy.”

She continues, “What you’re hearing here from us is an obsessive attention to detail, a refusal to cut corners and take short cuts, and a commitment to what it takes to do that. That’s what has kept our quality as good as it is. It’s so often that you see restaurants here open and start out great and then they go down. But when you have the owners, the founders or the creators just refusing to step away from that quality, which is us in a nutshell, then the sky is the limit.”

This comes through when both Michele and Bill speak of new flavour development and pizza launches. Bill says, “You have to take cues from the most successful restaurant brands. One of them for me is McDonald’s. I’ve been eating that

Filet-O-Fish sandwich for 50 years. McDonald’s has learned that you don’t mess with your menu. We have a line-up of 20 pizzas that are just phenomenal and to develop new ones is very, very tough. Michele and I, at the start of 2023, thought, ‘Let’s get some new stuff going’. So we had 25 pizzas and new toppings that we tested but none of them made the cut.”

But something else is on the cards. Michele reveals, “For the first time, we’re going to launch a chicken shawarma pizza. We had a lamb shawarma pizza for Ramadan, only for Time Out

Market. But this evolved almost from a challenge. I could have done a take on it, or an homage to it – I decided on the homage because I wanted to pay my respects to this beloved, iconic sandwich. And it tastes just like a chicken shawarma sandwich, but just on our pizza. And then I’ve got another one in the works as well, with burrata.”

Working with Time Out Market has been great for the brand, Michele says, because it made them look at combinations or dishes that were very out-of-the-box for a pizza brand – from a breakfast pizza to a festive one with stuffing, and much more. There are also collaborations with other home-grown concepts, such as the pizza collab with Moreish by K, as well as plans to work with the likes of Lila Taqueria.

All of this is also made possible by the pair’s insistence on sourcing high-quality ingredients. All Pitfire Pizza’s ingredients for the dough comes from Italy, along with a majority of its hard cheeses, flour and olive oils. The pepperoni comes in from the United States, the Italian sausage combines Dutch and Australian veal, while most of the toppings are made in-house. Ajman-based Italian Dairy Products supplies fresh mozzarella, and Bill acknowledges that they try to source locally wherever they can. He says, “There are some really interesting farms coming up now. They’re producing some great tomatoes and some of the rocket is really good.”

Bill muses, “Since we’ve lived here, it’s always been kind of a chain-dominated market and then the Italian concepts, but I think we’re the first independent, really craft-focused, artisanal pizzeria in the market here. I’ve always seen Dubai as a springboard into the food and beverage sector for the whole Middle East. It’s really one of the last frontiers for food and beverage. So the opportunity for us was to really jump in and be a home-grown, solid, really high-quality artisan craft pizzeria.” He continues, “Yeah, I’m living the dream.”

Michele adds, “And we have a great relationship that keeps us both going. We’re very happily married, a husband-and-wife team and partners in life. We’re very lucky.”

Pitfire Spaghetti And Meatballs

Prep time: 20 minutes (plus resting time)

Cook time: 1 hour

Serves: 4

For the meatballs

125ml SpinneysFOOD Bottled Drinking Water

57g breadcrumbs

2 SpinneysFOOD Organic Free-Range Eggs

1 garlic clove

Small handful of SpinneysFOOD Fresh Parsley

½ tbsp SpinneysFOOD Mediterranean Extra Virgin Olive Oil

47g SpinneysFOOD Parmigiano Reggiano Grated

1 tsp Maldon salt

½ tsp SpinneysFOOD Black Pepper, freshly ground Generous pinch of SpinneysFOOD Dried Oregano

1½kg SpinneysFOOD Grass-Fed Lean Beef Mince

Written by Devina Divecha ; Photography Aasiya Jagadeesh

For the sauce

2 small garlic cloves

4 tbsp SpinneysFOOD Mediterranean Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1¼kg SpinneysFOOD Organic Italian Tomato Passata

225g tomato paste

1 tsp SpinneysFOOD Dried Oregano

1 SpinneysFOOD Bay Leaf

1½ tsp Maldon salt

½ tsp SpinneysFOOD Black Pepper, freshly ground

250g Barilla Spaghettoni no.7

To serve

SpinneysFOOD Parmigiano Reggiano Grated SpinneysFOOD Fresh Parsley (optional)

1 To prepare the meatball mixture, combine the water, breadcrumbs and eggs in a large mixing bowl. Stir together until blended and set aside. Finely chop the garlic and parsley. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, until it turns golden. Combine the garlic, cheese, parsley, salt, pepper and oregano, then add this mixture into the breadcrumb mixture and mix well. Add the mince to the mixture. Using your fingers, gently lift the breadcrumb mixture from the bottom of the bowl and combine it with the mince. It is important to keep your fingers spread during this process. Keep lifting and mixing until well combined. Be careful not to overmix or to squeeze the meatball mixture. Cover the bowl with cling film and allow to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Finely chop the garlic. Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Stir in the passata and tomato paste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat then add the oregano, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and cool. Once cooled, store any unused sauce in the fridge for 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

3 Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.

4 Once the meatball mixture has rested, gently shape it into balls, approx. 60g each. Place the meatballs on the lined tray and bake for 17 minutes until just about done. Allow to cool. Any unused meatballs can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.

5 Place your desired portion of sauce in a large saucepan set over a medium heat. Add the meatballs to pan. Bring to a boil then simmer for approx. 15-20 minutes. 6 Meanwhile, fill a large pot with water and generously salt the water. Once it’s at a rolling boil, add the spaghetti and cook according to package instructions. Once done, remove it from the water using a pair of tongs or spaghetti scoop and place directly into the saucepan with the sauce and meatballs. Reserve 250ml of pasta water. Mix the spaghetti with the sauce until well coated. If it’s too dry, add a little pasta water to loosen it up. 7 Top with grated cheese and chopped parsley, if using, and serve.

When Matthew Jones founded Bread Ahead in 2013, he couldn’t have known that less than a decade later, his baked goods would fi nd a fan following all over the world including in the Middle East. He shares his journey and the motivation behind his work