The
Collection of Fiona Spear
Fiona Spear
Interview
FIONA SPEAR
VERUSHKA
Caught in the swirl
Emilio Pucci’s designs defined the 60s. His brilliant waves of colour swooped and dived across everything from silk jersey frocks to umbrellas. His biggest fan lives in New York, has a huge collection of Pucci paraphernalia and can’t wait to get her hands on more.
“I’m a Pucciholic, Fiona Spear declares in a breathless voice, as if in thrall to, but trying to kick, an unsavoury habit. Not likely. The only 12 steps this Adelaide-born, New York resident is inclined to take are those necessary to walk across her immaculate SoHo apartment to a credenza filled with all manner of Pucci paraphernalia. Inside it are vintage scarves, handbags, swimsuits, sunglasses and stationery all bearing the distinctive colourful swirls of the Italian fashion house. Welcome to PA: Pucciholics Anonymous.
At a time when fashion can seem increasingly homogeneous. with identical garments available in identical stores the world over, and a global saturation of trends, it’s intriguing to come across an individual who triumphantly flies her own flag. For more than a decade Spear has been an insatiable hunter and gatherer of everything to do with Pucci, the idiosyncratic label that, along with pop art and the Beatles, is unmistakably wrapped up in the iconography of the 60s.
Despite the giddy object of her affection, Spear is far from being a wacked-out flower child. On the contrary, the day Vogue scoots by her apartment she is the very picture of a modern careerist, garbed in the customary New York uniform of blackon- black, her chestnut hair scraped back into a neat ponytail, her flawless skin free of any make-up. She is wearing neither lurid leggings nor Mary Quant nail polish. It immediately transpires.
that Spear is a part-time Pucciholic, electing to wear the label in her down time from being an in-demand freelance art director. “When I put on a piece of Pucci,” she says, “it means I’m going to have some fun.
Fun is the only way to describe a nearby rack groaning under the weight of jersey dresses, silk shirts, velvet skirts and scarves swirled with exuberant colours and patterns. Viewed in its entirety, Spear’s collection recalls the clothes 60s author Jacqueline Susann might have packed for a racy worldwide book tour. Her apartment is a repository of more than 100 Pucci pieces, plucked from flea markets (especially New York’s 26th Street Markets). vintage-clothing stores such as Resurrection in New York’s East Village and via clothing agents, some of whom recognise the avid collector on sight. Prior to our meeting, Spear had been accosted in the street by an agent with earth-shattering news. “He was chasing me yelling, ‘Oh! Oh! Oh! I’ve got Pucci towels! I have been looking for Pucci towels forever. They were in production for just two years in the 60s. I have the handtowels, but I really want the beach towels.”
For Spear, Pucci has a talismanic power. She carries at least a single piece with her wherever she goes - a key ring, a handbag or a pair of brilliant, fly’s-eye sunglasses. (She owns a pair Elton John could well have called his own at some point in his flamboyant career.) With such sartorial distractions as these, it’s little wonder Spear is content to watch fashion styles ebb and flow. “My collection will always be in for me,” she says, smiling broadly. Paradoxically, this is a Pucci moment in fashion. The last European collections were all about Pucci-inspired prints at Versace, Gucci and Fendi, while the LVMH juggernaut recently acquired the original fashion house, evidently believing the time is ripe for a comeback. Although Spear is a regular at the Pucci boutique on East 64th Street, snaffling such pieces as the striking mini-cushions on her sofa, it’s the original stuff she really lives for.
The fashion house Emilio Pucci built peaked in the swinging 60s when the aristocratic Florentine designer - a former World War II pilot-dropped a colour bomb on the American fashion scene. The so-called Prince of Prints spawned the perfect jet-set wardrobe, using fluid silk jerseys stamped with psychedelic, kaleidoscopic designs that appealed to the new generation of liberated American women. That the label was also adopted by the likes of Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe (who was said to have been buried in Pucci) guaranteed it a place in the style hall of fame. Puccimania spread to everything from sundresses to Vespas, from ski wear to a logo for the Apollo 15 space flight. The Italian designer even dreamt up the wacky uniforms for US airline Braniff, including clear space helmets, and modern carriers take note-bookings shot up as a result.
One of Spear’s most treasured pieces is a Braniff umbrella, a riot of colour that feasibly could be used to land a plane. She also values the ceramics Pucci designed for Rosenthal, delicate but intensely coloured bowls and plates that take pride of place atop the George Nelson credenza.
Not surprisingly, the cumulative effect of all these brilliant Pucci treasures is a wholly positive one. As Emilio Pucci once observed: “Colour is a language by itself; it excites you or soothes you.” Spear agrees, “When you’re wearing Pucci you can’t help but be in a good mood. It’s hard to wear it sometimes in
VOGUE
Manhattan because it’s such a full-on city. But if we’re having a cocktail party or a dinner party, or if I’m going away somewhere, I always pull out the Pucci”
Spear was first turned on to Pucci by her twin sister, Trudi Scrymgour, one-half of hip Sydney design firm, Form Follows Function. By the time Spear decamped to New York 10 years ago, to pursue a career as a graphic designer with clients including Volvo, EMI, Iridium and the Museum of Modern Art, she discovered she was in vintage heaven.
Located on funky Mott Street, Resurrection is Spear’s favourite haunt, where she has picked up originals by Halston, Yves Saint Laurent and Courrèges; she owns a zinging orange vinyl coat Heather Graham could have worn as Felicity Shagwell in Austin Powers: The Spy Who Shagged Me. No doubt her affinity with these labels has much to do with her appreciation for standout design.
Asked what he makes of his wife’s Pucci fascination, Spear’s husband, Geoff, chuckles. “It’s pretty dangerous.” he says wryly. “It brings colour into our lives.” Geoff is a still-life photographer, and the pair work from home in a coolly minimalist downtown loft that divides neatly into apartment and studio. The space was designed by Trudi Scrymgour and awarded the 21st Best Residence plaudit from New York’s Interiors magazine earlier this year. One of the walls in the bedroom is painted a blazing shade of orange, suggesting the Pucci collection stored behind it. Riffling through the sideboard before leaving, we even find a Pucci perfume. Does Spear wear it?
She lets out a piercing giggle. “No! It stinks”
VOGUE
1) SILK SHIRT
SIZE CHEST 36IN / 92CM
2) MATCHING EVENING BAG
SIZE 8IN / 20CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $400 - $500
LOT LOT 32
LOT
1) SILK SCARF
SIZE 34x35IN / 86x86CM
2) MATCHING EVENING BAG
GILT TWIST-ROPE HANDLE / 7.5IN
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $300 - $500
LOT
RARE PRINTED VELVET JACKET
SELF-COVERED BUTTONS
SIZE CHEST 34IN / 86CM
CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
RARE CYLINDRICAL EVENING BAG
GILT CHAIN / 7.7IN / 19.5CM CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
1) RARE SUNGLASSES
EXAGGERATED ROUND FRAMES
CIRCA 1960’s
2) TOTE BAG
WOOL TOTE BAG CIRCA 2000’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
1) EVENING BAG
WHITE LEATHER ADJUSTABLE STRAP
SIZE 7IN / 18CM
2) SILK SCARF MEDIUM
SIZE 36x36IN / 91x91CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $300 - $500
LOT
RARE VELVET DRESS
A-LINE / VIBRANT COLOURS
BUST / 36-38IN / 76-96CM CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
EVENING BAG
STRUCTURED PRINTED SILK
TOP HANDLE / CLASP / 8IN / 20CM CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
40 EVENING BAG
GILT TWIST CHAIN HANDLES S IZE 9.5IN / 24CM CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT 41
RARE PUCCI FOR BRANIFF AIRLINES
“THE END OF THE PLAIN PLANE” CAMPAIGN
SPACE-AGE UNIFORMS & VIBRANT ACCESSORIES
1) UMBRELLA
LEATHER HANDLE & COVER
SIZE 25IN / 64CM
2) MATCHING CHIFFON SCARF
SIZE 28x34IN / 71x86CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $400 - $600
LOT
TERRYCLOTH MAXI COVER-UP
PUCCI BY JULIAN ESPADA
CORK-TOGGLES TIES
SIZE ITALIAN 42
CIRCA 2002
ESTIMATE $400 - $500
1) EVENING BAG
SIZE 7IN / 19.5CM
CIRCA 1960’s
2) SILK SCARF LONG
SIZE 12x58IN / 30x147CM
CIRCA 2000’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT LOT 43
43
LOT
LOT 44
1) TERRYCLOTH BEACH COVER-UP
SIZE BUST 34IN / 86CM
2) SILK SCARF MEDIUM
SIZE 34x35IN /86x88CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMAT: $200 - $300
LOT
LOT
1) EVENING BAG
SIZE 8.5IN / 21CM
2) SILK SCARF
SIZE 33x33IN / 84x84CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT
LOT 46
1) SILK SCARK / SARONG
SIZE 40x49IN / 101x124CM
1) SWIMSUIT
CHUNKY PLASTIC ZIPPER ON HIP
SIZE ITALIAN 38
CIRCA 1990’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT
LOT 47
1) VINTAGE SILK SHIRT
SIZE CHEST 36IN / 92CM
2) VINTAGE HANDBAG
SIZE 8IN / 20CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT 48
1) RARE COTTON BIKINI
BUST 30IN / 76CM. WAIST 28IN / 72CM
2) COTTON CROP-TOP
1970’S DEADSTOCK
3) SILK SCARF
SIZE 17x17IN / 43x43CM CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT
1) TUNIC COVER-UP
SIZE CHEST 36IN / 92CM
2) MATCHING BIKINI BOTTOM
SIZE WAIST 32IN / 82CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
1) VELVET SHOULDER BAG
LEATHER HANDLE
SIZE 11IN /28CM
2) SILK SCARF MEDIUM
SIZE 34x34IN / 86x86CM
CIRCA 1990’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT
VELVET A-LINE MAXI-SKIRT SIZE WAIST 30IN / 76CM CIRCA 1960’s
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
ISSABELLA ROSEINI
SILK TIES X 3
LORD & TAYLOR
SAKS FITH AVE
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
LOT LOT 52
1) TWO-TONE POLYESTER KAFTAN
SIZE CHEST 42IN / 106CM CIRCA 1980’s
2) SUN HAT
3) MATCHING BAG
SIZE 8IN / 20CM CIRCA 2000’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT
$250 - $400
LOT 56
LINGERIE SET
1) LONG NIGHTDRESS
PUCCI FOR FORMFIT ROGERS
2) BRA
BUST 32IN / 82CM
3) PANTIES
WAIST 26IN / 66CM
4) HALF-SLIP/SKIRT
5) COTTON CROP-TOP NOT PICTURED
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 5
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
LOT 57
1) VINTAGE HANDBAG
GILT ‘BUCKLE’ DETAILING
SIZE 8IN / 20CM
CIRCA 1960’s
2) VELVET KEYCHAIN IN BOX
3) VELVET WALLET
SIZE CIRCA 2000’s LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE: $200 - $300
LOT
LOT 58
1) COTTON BIKINI TOP
SIZE BUST 28IN / 72CM
2) COTTON SHORTS
WAIST 24IN / 60CM
3) COTTON CROP-TOP DEADSTOCK
4) COTTON SCARF SMALL
SIZE 18x18IN / 45x45CM CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 4
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT
LOT 59
1) PATENT LEATHER HANDBAG
GLIT CHAIN STRAPS
SIZE 13IN / 33CM
2) COIN PURSE IN BOX 3IN /7.5CM
CIRCA 1980’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT 60
1) SILK HALTER DRESS
SIZE ITALIAN 42-44
2) PUCCI BUCKET HAT
3) COTTON HALTER DRESS
SIZE BUST 30-32IN / 76-81CM
CIRCA 2000’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $250 - $350
LOT 61
1) VINTAGE SHIRT
SIZE CHEST 36-38IN / 92-96CM
2) VINTAGE SHIRT
SIZE CHEST 36-38IN / 92-96CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMAT: $250 - $400
LOT
61
LOT
LOT 62
1) SWIMSUIT
SIZE ITALIAN SIZE 42
KRISS-CROSS HALTERNECK TIES
2) MATCHING POUCH FOR SWIMSUIT
3) COTTON SARONG
SIZE 50X53IN / 127x135 CIRCA 2000’s LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT
LOT 63
1) SHEER CHIFFON SHIRT
SIZE BUST 36IN / 72CM
2) BLACK JERSEY TROUSERS
SIZE WAIST 28IN / 71CM
3) SHEER CHIFFON SHIRT
SIZE BUST 36IN / 72CM CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $250 - $400
LOT
1) JERSEY HALTERNECK-DRESS
SIZE ITALIAN 46 BUST 34IN / 86CM
2) COTTON TUNIC
SIZE ITALIAN 40 BUST 34IN / 86CM
CIRCA 2000’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT 65
1) JERSEY MAXI-DRESS
BUST 32-34IN / 81-86CM
WAIST 24-26IN / 60-66CM
CIRCA 1960’s
2) SILK SCARF
SIZE 22x22IN / 55x55CM CIRCA 2000’s
Lot of 2
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
1) CROP-TOP DEADSTOCK NAVY
2) RAYON SKIRT
WAIST 28IN / 72CM
3) CROP-TOP DEADSTOCK ORANGE
4) SILK-CRÊPE SKIRT
WAIST 28IN / 72CM CIRCA 2000’s LOT OF 4
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
LOT
1) JERSEY DRESS
BUST APPROX 36IN / 72CM CIRCA 1960’s
2) JERSEY MICRO-MINI / TUNIC
BUST APPROX 36IN / 72CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $250 - $350
LOT
1) SUNGLASSES
RECTANGULAR FRAMES
2) SILK WALLET
3) VELVET KEYCHAIN
4) SILK KEYHOLDER CIRCA 1960’s-1970’s LOT OF 4
ESTIMATE $200 - $300
1) WOOL JERSEY DRESS
TIE-BELT BUST 36IN /92CM CIRCA 2000’s
2) COTTON CROP-TOP
DEADSTOCK BLUE
3) COTTON SKIRT
PRES-STUD FASTENINGS
WAIST 30IN / 76CM
HIPS 40IN /101CM CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $250 - $350
PUCCI FOR FORMFIT ROGERS
1) NEGLIGEE
2) MATCHING LONG ROBE
3) NEGLIGEE
BUSTS 34IN / 86CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
PUCCI FOR FORMFIT ROGERS
1) NEGLIGEE
BUST 36IN / 92CM
2) MATCHING LONG ROBE
3) NEGLIGEE
BUST 32IN / 82CM
CIRCA 1960’s
LOT OF 3
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
PUCCI FOR FORMFIT ROGERS
1) LONG NIGHTGOWN
2) LONG NIGHTGOWN
BUSTS 34IN / 86CM
CIRCA 1960’s LOT OF 2
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
1) PLAYING CARDS
2) HAND TOWEL
3) HAND TOWEL
4) COTTON SCARF
5) COTTON SCARF CIRCA 2000’s LOT OF 9
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
LOT
6) PURFUME
7) STATIONARY SET
8) COTTON SCARF
9) COTTON SCARF
CIRCA 2000’s LOT OF 9
ESTIMATE $150 - $250
FASHION AUCTIONEER
