Soyaconcept material guide and strategy

Material Guide

© sustainacompany 2021 2nd Edition Author: Anne Katrine Blirup Layout: Signe S. Høltzermann

This material guide is made to be used. Used when picking out new and better materials. Used for the creation of educational communication. Used to exercise transparency on choices and avoid greenwashing.

The guide has five different fiber groupings: natural, synthetic, cellulose, animal originated, and fibers on the rise.

All fibers are rated on seven parameters, individually: water use, chemical use, social issues, environmental issues, animal welfare, price and availability. Each parameter is given a classification of bad, poor, fair or good.

A model visualising the rating can be found alongside the respective material. In the back of the guide I have gathered all materials in large tables, so you can compare their properties.

This is the second edition of this guide and new knowledge and different ratings have been added. We will continue to grow our knowledge and once we have more knowledge we will share it.

Please share with me if you have any corrections to anything mentioned in this book, so we can all learn from each other.

I hope you make good use of your material guide! Enjoy!

Anne Katrine Blirup

Author and founder of Sustainawear

Ratings

Bad

Poor

Fair

Good

Table of contents Natural Fibers Conventional cotton Organic cotton GOTS cotton Linen

Synthetic Fibers

6

8 10 12 14

16

Polyamide/Nylon Acrylic Polyester Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester PU PVC

18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Cellulose Fibers

32

Animal Originated Fibers

50

Classifications

70

Bamboo Viscose Viscose FSC Viscose Acetate Modal Cupro Lyocell LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Fur Angora Down & Feathers Leather Silk Cashmere Wool Mohair Wool Alpaca Wool

Water Use Chemical Use Social Issues Environmental Issues Animal Welfare Price Availability

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68

71 72 73 74 75 76 77

NATURAL FIBERS

In this guide a natural fiber is defined as a fiber deriving from plants, which has not been dissolved into a cellulose.

They may include, but are not limited to, fibers deriving from cotton plants, flax and hemp.

Significant sustainability considerations in this category: • Water use • Chemicals

Conventional Cotton Cotton derives from the cotton plant and is grown in more than 80 countries around the world. Cotton is a very water consuming plant and is often protected from insects by using pesticides. Cotton can also be treated with GMO’s, to ensure a larger outcome of the individual plant.

Production 1. Planting the seeds and harvesting after 25 weeks 2. Ginning to remove the dirt from the cotton 3. Spinning the cotton thread 4. Weaving the fabric 5. Dyeing and/or printing 6. Cut and sew of garment Pros • Strong and breathable fiber • A natural fiber Cons • The use of harmful chemicals are bad for the environment • Cases of poor working conditions for cotton farmers • Potential loss of biodiversity • Uses a lot of water Alternatives • Organic cotton • BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) • Cotton Made in Africa • Fairtrade Cotton • Recycled Cotton (but virgin cotton must then be added)

9

Conv. Cotton

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Organic Cotton Organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic chemicals.

This includes pesticides and GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Cotton is a water consuming plant, but since pesticides are not used, the soil has more natural nutrition and therefore it needs less water over time. Some argue that it needs more water, since you cannot protect the plant. When it is GMO free, you do not get the same outcome from the plant, hence you will need a bigger area. Choose organic cotton for the sake of not using pesticides, rather than saving water. If you want to save water, choose other natural fibers.

Production 1. Planting the seeds and harvest after 25 weeks 2. Ginning to remove the dirt from the cotton 3. Spinning the cotton thread 4. Weaving the fabric 5. Dyeing and/or printing 6. Cut and sew of garment Pros • No use of harmful chemicals which is good for the environment • Better conditions for the farmers economic situation because they don’t rely on big agrochemical companies • Better conditions for the farmers health because they are not exposed to as many chemicals • Better biodiversity Cons • The price is high • Uses a lot of water Alternatives • GOTS Organic Cotton

Organic Cotton

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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GOTS Organic Cotton Organic cotton certified by Global Organic Textile Standard.

The following criterias must be met: • Only use certified organic cotton • At least 70% of the material is natural organic fiber (contains organic fiber logo) and the garment contains max 10% synthetic fibers (except socks, leggings and sportswear) • At least 95% of the material is natural organic fiber • Working conditions and environment issues are checked throughout the supply chain • Packaging only from certified forests (e.g. FSC) and no PVC • Chemical content is checked throughout the supply chain • Accessories used on the garment live up to chemical restrictions – and no PVC • Lives up to the GOTS quality standard Production Same as organic cotton, but with a certifications process throughout the supply chain using Scope and Transaction certificates.

Pros • Full transparency • No use of harmful chemicals • Better conditions for the farmers and workers • Use the certification in marketing (if you are certified) Cons • A lot of administration in managing the certification • The price of the organic cotton and the certification Alternatives

None, this is as good as it gets within cotton

GOTS Cotton

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Linen Linen is a natural fiber deriving from the flax plant. Flax grows quickly and is not as water consuming as cotton. Conventional linen uses pesticides in the growing of the plant.

Production 1. The flax is harvested 2. Chemicals are added to speed up the retting process 3. The material is spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Low use of water • Yields more crops than e.g. cotton Cons • Chemicals in the retting process • Use of pesticides Alternatives • Organic Linen • GOTS Linen

Linen

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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SYNTHETIC FIBERS

In this guide a synthetic fiber is defined as a fiber made from synthetic materials, often created through a chemical process.

Significant sustainability considerations in this category: • Chemicals • Microplastics • Use of fossil fuels

Polyamid/Nylon Polyamide/Nylon is made from coal or petroleum and is a plastic. It is a strong and lightweight material.

Production 1. Two acids (diamine and adipic) are forced into reaction with heat and pressure, creating a polymer 2. The polymer is chopped up into nylon chips 3. The chips are melted 4. The melted polymer is spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Nylon is recyclable when made from 100% nylon • A strong fiber Cons • Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed Alternative • Recycled Nylon/Polyamide • ECONYL®

Polyamid/Nylon

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Acrylic Acrylic is made from oil, and is a plastic material. It is often used in knitwear as it can simulate wool, and is flexible when used in combination with other synthetic or natural fibers.

Production 1. The polymer is created through a reaction technique called free radical polymerization 2. The polymer is then dissolved using a harsh chemical solvent producing a gel like material 3. This is extracted to form an acrylic fiber 4. This fiber is washed and spun into thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • When made from 100 acrylic it is recyclable Cons • Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed Alternatives • Organic wool • GOTS Wool • Wool

Acrylic

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Polyester Polyester is made from oil, then added chemical. Polyester is a very strong synthetic fiber, which works very well as sportswear. When washed, polyester releases microplastic into the water.

Production 1. Through a chemical reaction at high temperatures, a monomer is made 2. The monomer is reacted with a phthalate to create a polymer 3. The polymer is extracted in long strips, which are then broken into small chips 4. The chips are then melted to a gel-like material 5. This material is then spun into a thread 6. The thread is weaved into fabric 7. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 8. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • It is recyclable, when made from 100% polyester Cons • Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed Alternatives • Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester • Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester

Polyester

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester Pre-consumer recycled polyester is derived from plastic and polyester products that have not yet been used by consumers.

Production 1. The recycled PET is broken into small chips 2. The chips are then melted into a gel-like material 3. This material is spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Cuts down on plastic waste or material waste in the factories.

Cons • Releases microplastics into the water when washed • Cannot return to nature Alternatives • Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester Note: You need to make sure that the garments you get are certified as recycled to ensure that it is, in fact, recycled materials

Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Post-consumer Recycled Polyester Post-consumer recycled polyester is derived from recycled polyester garments.

Production 1. The garment is melted 2. The melted material is spun into a new thread 3. The thread is weaved into a new fabric 4. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 5. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Contributes to a circular fashion industry Cons • Releases microplastics into the water when washed Alternative • None. This is the most sustainable polyester for now.

Note: You need to make sure that the garments you get are certified as recycled to ensure that it is, in fact, recycled materials

Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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PU PU (polyurethane) is often used as imitation leather and has the most visual resemblance to real leather. Some types of PU leather are made from actual leftover leather, but has a PU coating on top of it.

Production 1. Through a chemical reaction at high temperatures, a monomer is made 2. The monomer is reacted with a phthalate to create a polymer 3. The polymer is extracted in long strips, which are then broken into small chips 4. The chips are then melted to a gel-like material 5. This material is then spun into a thread 6. The thread is weaved into fabric 7. From this polyester material, you apply a PU coating Pros • PU Leather is cheaper than normal leather • PU leather can be made into many colours Cons • Not breathable like leather • Does not lasts as long as real leather, as it can crack • It does not decompose • Made from non-renewable sources Alternatives • Leather • Vegan leather (non-PU/PVC)

PU

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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PVC PVC is often used as imitation leather. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) is made from chemically altered oil and salt.

Production 1. Salt water produces chlorine through electrolysis 2. The chlorine is combined with Ethylene (deriving from oil), forming VCM (Vinyl Chloride Monomer) 3. This is melted and poured on the surface of a backing fiber, such as cotton Pros • Hard PVC is recyclable (so if PVC is used for zippers or the like, it can be recycled) Cons • Contains plasticizers which are known for their endocrinedisrupting abilities • The production of PVC creates dioxins (toxic chemicals known for their endocrine-disruptive and carcinogenic abilities) • A recycling solution for soft PVC has not yet been found.

Alternatives • Leather • Vegan leather (non-PU/PVC)

PVC

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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CELLULOSE FIBERS

Cellulose fibers come from plant-based materials treated with solvents or other chemicals to be broken down into a fibre that can be spun into a thread and weaved into a fabric. Many different plant-based materials can be used, but the most common type is wood from different sources.

Sustainable considerations in this category: • Chemicals waste • Water usage • Management of sourced raw materials

Bamboo Viscose Bamboo Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved bamboo wood pulp. In all cases, bamboo viscose is just viscose, as the bamboo is not identifiable in the end product.

Production 1. Bamboo is cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • It is a cheap fabric with a lot of functions Cons • A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • Leads to deforestation • Tough on the soil in which it is grown • Non-recyclable Alternatives • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose Note: Bamboo is often wrongly portrayed as sustainable

Bamboo Viscose

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Viscose Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees.

Production 1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Breathable fiber Cons • A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • A lot of trees are used in the production, contributing to deforestation • Non-recyclable Alternatives • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose

Viscose

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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FSC® Viscose Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees. FSC® Viscose is similar to normal viscose, except for the fact that the wood used comes from sustainably managed forests.

Production 1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Comes from sustainably managed forests, certified by FSC® • Higher transparency • Prevents deforestation Cons • A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • Non-recyclable Alternatives • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose

FSC® Viscose

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Acetate Acetate derives from cellulose and has the appearance of silk.

Production 1. The trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The cellulose is forced into a reaction with acetic anhydride 3. The material is then extruded and spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Comes from a natural raw material Cons • The chemical process is very extensive • The wood does not come from sustainably managed forests • A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers Alternatives • Silk • Peace Silk

Acetate

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Modal Modal is made from wooden chips from the beech tree.

Production 1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose, 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Uses less chemicals in the production than viscose • A strong fibre Cons • The chemical process involved in making Modal requires a lot of water • High use of chemicals • The wood does not automatically come from sustainably managed forests Alternatives • TENCEL™ Modal

Modal

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Cupro Cupro is a soft material often used as a cheaper alternative to silk. The fabric is made from cotton linter.

Production 1. The cotton linter is exposed to a mixture of ammonium and copper, creating a new substance 2. The new substance is submerged into caustic soda 3. Then dipped in a series of baths to reconstruct the cellulose 4. The thread can then be weaved into a fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Comes from a waste product (linter) Cons • Use of toxic chemicals • High water use in the chemical process Alternatives • Silk • Peace Silk

Cupro

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Lyocell Lyocell is a form of viscose, produced in a closed loop.

Production • Similar to viscose, but using non-toxic and organic solvents.

The chemical handling is done in a closed-loop system. This means both water and solvents are recycled and reused.

Pros • Fast growing crop • Eucalyptus trees contribute positively to their surrounding environment • Organic non-toxic solvents • Closed loop system Cons • Using Lyocell that is not branded, can cause some uncertainty in regards to traceability Alternatives • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • TENCEL™ LYOCELL (Depends on the desired handfeel)

Lyocell

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees. The wood pulp for LENZING™ ECOVERO™ comes from certified sustainably managed forests. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ has a fiber identification technology, making it possible to identify the fiber in the endproduct.

Production • Similar to viscose, but produced with lower emissions and water impact compared to conventional viscose.

Pros • Up to 50% less carbon emissions, compared to normal • Up to 50% less water used than for other viscose types • Wood from certified sustainably managed forests • Fiber technology to trace the fiber up to the final product • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers are certified with the EU Ecolabel for textile products Cons • Lack of availability • Higher price than conventional viscose Alternatives • Livaeco Viscose • Lyocell • TENCEL™ Lyocell

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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ANIMAL ORIGINATED FIBERS

Animal fibers mostly come from skin or fur of animals but can also be materials made by animals, such as silk. Because they have such different properties their treatments also vary greatly.

Sustainable considerations in this category: • Animal Welfare • Chemicals

Fur Fur covers pelts/skins from animals farmed in cages (e.g. fox, mink, chinchilla, rabbit). Fur can also come from wildlife such as fox and beavers. The use of fur is becoming more and more limited because of the many animal welfare organisations campaigns against its use.

Production 1. Farming/hunting/catching 2. Slaughter of animal 3. Skinning 4. Degreasing 5. Tanning Pros • If it is possible to ensure that the animals have been treated decently, then fur is a very durable material.

Cons • High use of chemicals.

• Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare Alternatives • Faux Fur

Fur

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Angora Angora comes from the angora rabbit that has soft fur.

Production 1. The fur is shaved off the rabbit 2. The fur is spun into a soft thread Pros • A very soft material to use together with other types of wool • A natural fiber Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • It has been banned by many retailers due to claims of animal cruelty during shearing of the fur and general living conditions of the rabbits Alternatives • Other types of wool

Angora

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Down & Feathers Down and feathers are used as a filler, often in jackets (downjackets).

Production 1. Birds are slaughtered 2. The downs are plucked from the bird Pros • If the animal is not harmed in the process, then there is no trouble in using the material.

• A natural fiber Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • There have been reports of birds having their feathers ripped off while they were still alive, so that they could grow out again and you could get more feathers from one bird.

• Geese that has been used for the production of Fois Gras have been force fed, contributing to animal cruelty.

Alternatives • Fake down (synthetic) • Recycled Down

Down & Feathers

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Leather Leather most commonly comes from cows, goats or sheeps.

It is animal skin which has been either chemically tanned or vegetable tanned. Leather is most often used for shoes, bags, jackets, belts and other accessories, but is also used for other clothing items such as pants.

Production 1. Farming 2. Slaughter 3. Skinning 4. Degreasing 5. Tanning 6. Cut and sew Pros • The skin can be a waste product from the food industry • It is a very durable material • Sustainable in the use-phase, as it requires no washing Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • The working conditions at and near the tanneries are often criticized because of the exposure to hazardous chemicals • Due to the use of hazardous chemicals, the environment can be harmed • The methane gas from the cows releases CO2 • Uses vast amounts of land for the animal to grass Alternatives • Vegan leather (Lab-grown leather, Mylo, Pineapple leather)

Leather

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Silk Silk derives from the cocoon of the silkworm.

Production 1. When the worms start pupating in their cocoons, they are dissolved in boiling water 2. Long fibers are extracted 3. The fibers are spun into silk thread Pros • The fiber is very long-lasting due to the luxury of the material • Uses less water and chemicals than many other fibers • Responsible in the use-phase, as it requires very limited washing and is normally cared well for Cons • The silkworm is boiled alive, which has made animal welfare organizations criticise the industry • A natural fiber Alternatives • Peace silk • GOTS certified organic silk

Silk

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Cashmere Cashmere wool comes from cashmere goats, primarily living in northern China.

Production 1. The goat is sheared of its wool 2. The wool is cleaned and sorted into bales 3. The fibers are made into long strands 4. The long strands are spun into yarn 5. The yarn is woven or knitted into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Wool is very sustainable in the use-phase, since it is not washed as often and you tend to care much for your wool product • A natural fiber Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • The goats’ hoofs are hard on the pastureland in northern China • There can be issues on animal welfare during shearing of the goat • Water is used to clean fibers Alternatives • Alpaca wool • RWS

Cashmere

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Wool Wool is sheared from sheep.

Production 1. The sheep is sheared of its wool 2. The wool is cleaned and sorted into bales (treated with chemicals) 3. The fibers are made into long strands 4. The long strands are spun into yarn 5. The yarn is woven or knitted into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Wool is very sustainable in the use-phase, since it is not washed as often and you tend to care much for your wool product • A natural fiber Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • The animal welfare when shearing the sheep has received some negative attention • Uses vast amounts of land for the animal to grass • The methane gas from the sheep releases CO2 • Water is used to clean fibers Alternatives • RWS

Wool

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Mohair Wool Mohair wool comes from angora goats, which have a very thick wool.

Production 1. The goat is sheared of its wool 2. The wool is cleaned and sorted into bales 3. The fibers are made into long strands 4. The long strands are spun into yarn 5. The yarn is woven or knitted into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Wool is very sustainable in the use-phase, since it is not washed as often and you tend to care much for your wool product • A natural fiber Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • The animal welfare when shearing the sheep has received some negative attention. This has led many retailers to ban the use of mohair.

• The hoofs of the goats are hard on the pastureland.

• Water is used to clean fibers.

Alternatives • Alpaca Wool • Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS)

Mohair

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Alpaca Wool This wool comes from alpacas.

Production 1. The alpaca is sheared of its wool 2. The wool is cleaned and sorted into bales 3. The fibers are made into long strands 4. The long strands are spun into yarn 5. The yarn is woven or knitted into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn Pros • Wool is very responsible in the use-phase, since it is not washed as often and you tend to care much for your wool product • A natural fiber • They have soft padded hoofs that does not harm the ground as much as other animals • Normally no dyeing of the yarn, as the Alpaca naturally comes in very different colours Cons • Lack of transparency to the animals, hence difficult to ensure good animal welfare • Water is used to clean fibers • The availability of alpaca wool is more limited than other types of wool Alternatives • Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS)

Alpaca Wool

WATER USE

CHEMICAL USE

SOCIAL ISSUES

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

ANIMAL WELFARE

PRICE

AVAILABILITY

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Classifications In the following section you find tables for the seven sustainability parameters.

All tables contain all the fibers included in the guide.

The tables are designed to make it easier for you to compare the materials on the parameters you choose to focus on.

Water Use Natural

Synthetic

Cellulose

Conventional Cotton

Organic Cotton

Viscose

Bamboo Viscose

GOTS Cotton

BCI Cotton

FSC® Viscose

Modal

Fairtrade Cotton

Animal

Acetate Cotton Made in Africa

Cupro

Leather

GOTS wool

Organic Wool Pre-Cons.

Recycled Cotton

Post-Cons.

Recycled Cotton

Post-Cons.

Recycled Polyester

Polyamid/ Nylon

Fur

Cashmere

Acrylic

Polyester

Wool

Mohair Wool

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled Polyamid/ Nylon

RWS

Alpaca Wool

PU

PVC

Down & Feathers

Angora

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Organic Hemp

Linen

Organic Linen

Hemp

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

Peace Silk

Silk

Ramie

GOTS Linen

Lyocell

Livaeco

Recycled Wool

RDS

GOTS Hemp

Chemical Use Natural

Synthetic

Conventional Cotton

Cellulose

PVC

PU

Viscose

Bamboo Viscose

Acrylic

Polyester

FSC® Viscose

Acetate

Cupro

Modal

Animal Leather

Fur

Wool

Mohair Wool

Polyamid/ Nylon Linen

Hemp

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

BCI Cotton

Fairtrade Cotton

Post-Cons.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

Cashmere

Ramie Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Pre-cons.

Recycled Cotton

RWS

Alpaca Wool

Cotton Made in Africa

Angora

Silk

Peace Silk Organic Hemp

GOTS Cotton

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Organic Wool

RDS

Organic Linen

Organic Cotton

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Lyocell

GOTS wool

Recycled Wool

GOTS Hemp

GOTS Linen

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Livaeco

Down & Feathers

Social Issues Natural

Synthetic

Cellulose

Conventional Cotton Organic Hemp

Animal Leather

Hemp

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

PU

Modal

Cupro

Mohair Wool

Fur

PVC

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

FSC® Viscose

Viscose

Cashmere

Wool

Acrylic

Polyester

Bamboo Viscose

Acetate

Polyamid/ Nylon

Post-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Livaeco

BCI Cotton

Organic Cotton

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Organic Wool

Peace Silk

Cotton Made in Africa

Fairtrade Cotton

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Lyocell

Angora

Down & Feathers

Linen

Organic Linen

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Silk

Alpaca Wool

Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Pre-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Recycled Wool

Ramie GOTS Linen GOTS Hemp

GOTS Cotton

RWS GOTS Wool

RDS

Environmental Issues Natural

Synthetic

Convetional Cotton

Cellulose

PVC

Polyamid/ Nylon

Acetate

Polyester

Acrylic

Bamboo Viscose

Linen

Hemp

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

Modal

Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Pre-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Post-cons.

Recycled Polyester

PU

FSC® Viscose

BCI Cotton

Ramie

Cotton Made In Africa

Fairtrade Cotton

Viscose

Animal Leather

Fur

Alpaca Wool

RWS

RDS

Wool

Cashmere

Down & Feathers

Angora

Silk

Cupro

Livaeco

Mohair Wool Organic Linen

Organic Hemp

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Organic Wool

GOTS Wool

GOTS Linen

GOTS Cotton

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Lyocell

Peace Silk

Recycled Wool

GOTS Hemp

Organic Cotton

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Animal Welfare Natural

Synthetic

Cellulose

Animal Angora

Fur

Leather

Down & Feathers

Mohair Wool

Wool

Cashmere

Silk

Alpaca Wool

Organic Wool

GOTS Wool Organic Hemp

GOTS Hemp

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Organic Linen

Organic Cotton

Polyamid/ Nylon

Acrylic

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Lyocell

Conventional Cotton

Ramie

PVC

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Livaeco

Linen

Hemp

Polyester

Post-cons.

Recycled Polyester

FSC® Viscose

Viscose

BCI Cotton

Pre-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Bamboo Viscose

Cupro

Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

Fairtrade Cotton

Modal

Acetate

Cotton Made in Africa

GOTS Cotton

GOTS Linen

PU

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Recycled Wool

RWS

Peace Silk

RDS

Price Natural

Synthetic

Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

GOTS Cotton

Fairtrade Cotton

GOTS Hemp

Cellulose

Post-cons.

Recycled Polyester

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Animal Peace Silk

Organic Wool

GOTS Wool

Recycled Wool

GOTS Linen Organic Linen

Organic Cotton

Cotton Made in Africa

Pre-Cons.

Recycled Cotton

Pre-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

Organic Hemp

BCI Cotton

Hemp

Linen

Ramie

Conventional Cotton

Linen

FSC® Viscose

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Mohair Wool

RWS

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

Cashmere

Fur

Lyocell

Livaeco

Alpaca Wool

RDS

Silk

Angora Leather

Bamboo Viscose

Modal

Wool

Viscose

Down & Feathers

Acrylic

PU

Cupro

PVC

Polyester

Acetate

Polyamid/ Nylon

Availability Natural

Synthetic

Cellulose

Post-cons.

Recycled Cotton

REFIBRA™ (LENZING™)

Organic Linen

Organic Cotton

Organic Hemp

GOTS Cotton

Pre-Cons.

Recycled Cotton

Fairtrade Cotton

GOTS Linen

GOTS Hemp

Cotton Made In Africa

Hemp

Recycled Nylon/ Polyamid

Post-cons.

Recycled Polyester

Animal Peace Silk

Organic Wool

GOTS Wool

Recycled Wool

Alpaca Wool

RWS

Angora

Pre-cons.

Recyled Polyester

TENCEL™ LYOCELL (LENZING™)

Lyocell

Wool

Fur

TENCEL™ Modal (LENZING™)

Modal

Silk

Mohair Wool

FSC® Viscose

Livaeco

Cashmere

RDS

Down & Feathers

Leather

LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Conventional Cotton

Ramie

Acrylic

PU

Cupro

Viscose

Linen

BCI Cotton

PVC

Polyester

Bamboo Viscose

Acetate

Polyamid/ Nylon