Adventure Log: Little St. Simons

Day 1

Rode over from Hampton River Marina with Captain Luke, John and Kathy, a couple from Montgomery, Ala., and two other guests. Met at the dock by Taylor Evans, who gave us a short orientation and tour of the main lodge before directing us to our rooms. My room was in Cedar House. Spacious, comfortable, and with a great view of the marsh. First activity – short beach excursion. Naturalist Rock drove us through maritime forests and marshes along Beach Road, an oystershell track bisecting island. Stopped at Norm’s Pond, named for the 13-foot gator that rules this little freshwater oasis and rookery. Sadly Norm wasn’t sunning himself just then, but we enjoyed watching great and snowy egrets, ibis, anhinga and the island’s only nesting wood stork pair tending their nests. From there on to the beach. Had time for a short walk (beach populated only by birds and other beach critters) before heading back to compound, arriving just before lunch bell rang at lodge. Lunch consisted of expertly cooked and seasoned crab cakes, herb-roasted potatoes, roasted asparagus and homemade cookies. For someone who eats lunch on the go, if at all, this seemed quite a lot, but after a morning of fresh air was perfect. During lunch, naturalist Rock discussed afternoon activities. Options included the beach, visiting the North End, riding bikes or doing your own thing. I grabbed my camera and headed for the gardens I’d glimpsed that morning. Gorgeous driftwood fence and gate (lined with chicken wire) kept herbivorous critters out of the immense gardens. Overwhelming variety of fruit, flowers, herbs, vegetables, and even decorative plants. Took pics and sampled a few blackberries and fresh herbs, enjoying the peace and quiet until it was time to cool off. Settled on screened porch at Cedar House with sweet tea and a book, but was distracted by birds enjoying a feeder a few feet away. Stepped outside for better view and watched mourning doves and a young cotton rat gather fallen bits of food. When the cotton rat scampered away with a full belly, a small raccoon ambled over. Using his front paws, he snatched up seeds as a child would candy. He noticed me but paid no mind and continued his meal. At six, after cleaning up and changing into clean (but casual) clothes for dinner, I headed to the lodge for the daily social hour. Chose a beer and a cold pint glass from the bar then found a seat on the side porch with the other guests. We shared a pleasant hour of conversation until the bell sounded for dinner. Dinner was delicious, starting with a salad of mixed greens grown in the island garden, followed by redfish, stir-fried Carolina gold rice, and mustard greens. Individual, freshly-baked sweet potato hand pies with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream was served for dessert. I don’t care for sweet potatoes, but it was all I could do not to lick the bowl.

Day 2

Slept great, woke at first light, grabbed camera and headed out to explore the compound while it was still cool. Chose a path around main lodge and immediately noticed a rabbit nibbling on greenery in a patch of sun. It paused, noticing me too, then continued to dine, undisturbed by my proximity. I watched for a few minutes and went on my way. Breakfast bell rang at nine and we again ate well: freshly- baked biscuits, gravy, sausage, bacon, and fruit – there might have been more, but that’s what I put on my plate! After breakfast, Cohen Carpenter found me on the dock and we had a chance to catch up. You might remember Cohen from a few articles he wrote for Southern Tides about sharks. He’s now the assistant manager of the naturalists and an excited dad-tobe. Congrats, Cohen! For the morning activity, John, Kathy, two other guests and I

Overlooking Mosquito Creek.

Cedar House back porch.

Pretty in pink!

Edible day lilies! Brined Meyer Lemons. Young gator in Goose Pond. Gabe & Pam

decided to go fishing. Naturalist John took us to a spot on Mosquito Creek within eyesight of the beach and got us set up with rods and cut shrimp. While John and Kathy caught several fish, I was too busy talking, inspecting ghost crab holes, and hunting out edible plants to pay much attention to actually catching fish. But we all had fun! Heading back to the compound for lunch, I was sure I couldn’t be hungry after our huge breakfast but being active in the salt air and heat did the trick. Another delicious meal with pasta salad – which I’m determined to duplicate – followed by fresh-baked cookies. Naturalist Nate joined us to discuss afternoon activities, but I had plans to spend time with staff to learn more about the LSSI. Visited kitchen with Chef Matt (and learned how to brine lemons), then with Scott Greene, the general manager. Scott and I toured the compound and guest cottages, and I learned more about native species planting and island history. Later in the afternoon, indulged in a nap before dinner. Was rough day. Our social hour that evening was interrupted by a visit from an armadillo. A few of us watched it root along the flower beds surrounding the porches. Like other critter encounters, this guy couldn’t have cared less about the humans only feet away from him. Entrée for dinner was lamb chops. Tried lamb many times because everyone says, “It has to be prepared right, but you’ll like it THIS time!” Each time they were wrong. But kept an open mind and put one small chop on my plate. Grateful to see we were also having mushroom risotto and braised fennel – I wouldn’t starve. Kathy assured me it was cooked perfectly (uh huh) so I cut off a small bite, mentally bracing for that odd gamey flavor … but it wasn’t gamey at all. It was delicious! Medium rare and tender, with a whisper of fresh mint. I asked for the platter to please be passed back to me. After dinner guests were invited to participate in an evening program – beach walk with a sea turtle expert!

Day 3

Another blissful night’s sleep! Woke early to meet John and Kathy and do a little crabbing before breakfast. Perfect morning to sit on the dock, tend our lines, and talk. If the other guests had been dependent on us to provide crabs for sustenance, everyone would have starved, but we had a lovely time talking books and history until all our bait was stolen and it was time to return (empty handed) for breakfast. Breakfast: Frittata, grits and fresh fruit (all yummy). Afterwards met with Jessica Baxter, culinary gardiner, for guided tour of the gardens. Jessica works with Seamus, the island’s horticulturist, and Chef Matt to make the best use of the garden yield. She identified plants I wasn’t familiar with and talked about which thrive in heat and loamy soil, shared different uses for various herbs and plants, and explained how to make compound butters. Also got to taste the petals of a day lily! After garden exploration, the pool called me. Delighted to find Gabe and Pam had the same idea. Water was a touch chilly at first but felt good after being in the sun all morning. Lunch: Oven-baked ribs (tender as fish), creamy potato salad, and one of my all-time favorites – collard greens. And of course, cookies for dessert. I had two since it was my last meal on the island. After lunch others were going to the beach or kayaking, but I met up with the island ecological manager, Scott Coleman, and we rode out to Goose Pond. Juvenile gators who’d yet to find their own territories and quite a few nesting birds basked in the sun. Scott told me more about the conservation and research practices on the island and LSSI’s partnerships with multiple coastal organizations. Got back to compound with just enough time to pack and head to the dock. Kathy and John came down to say goodbye as they were staying on one more day, then heading to St. Marys for a visit. Gabe and Pam rode back with me and several day trippers – we were all sad to be leaving. Although guests are well-cared-for, it’s more like going to visit friends who happen to be naturalists, on their own private island. Casual, relaxed, fun, comfortable, great meals, and you learn a thing or two while you’re there! The perfect coastal getaway! Hope to visit again this winter and see what the Lodge has to offer in cooler months. I’ve already been told to expect an oyster roast! Count me in! 21