Adventure Log: Daufuskie

Adventure Log: Daufuskie Island

Story and Photos By Amy Thurman

Igot to the public dock at 9:00 a.m. on a sunny summer morning. I called Lancy and Emily Burn, my hosts for the day, to let them know I was there, then looked at the map of the island to orient myself and mourned the abandoned building that was once Marshside Mama’s. A few minutes later, Emily arrived and took me back to their studio, Silver Dew Pottery. After visiting for a few minutes, they got back to work and I headed out to explore the island in their Ford Explorer.

My first stop that morning was the Glass House, on Lancy and Emily’s recommendation. There I met owner and artisan Melanie Larson, as she worked at her bench while we talked. Melanie explained that she orders Italian glass from Verano, Italy, and silver glass from Charlottesville, Va. The glass comes in the form of small fragile rods, which Melanie then melts and mixes with colors, then shapes into various shapes, depending on what she’s crafting. From jewelry to decorative household items, her work is unique and absolutely lovely!

From there I went on to visit Mary Field Cemetery. In learning about my own family history that I’ve traced back to Virginia and Pennsylvania in the early 1700s, I’ve come to appreciate old cemeteries as touchstones. Although their spirits have gone on, headstones may be the last remnants of previous generations. I couldn’t help but wonder who they were, what they’d done in their lives, and how they’d come to be on Daufuskie Island in the first place.

I’d heard from a visitor in Silver Dew Pottery earlier that morning that it was best to get to Lucy Bell’s Café as soon as they opened because the place tended to fill up fast. Since it was nearly 11, I backtracked to the café and got in line as I looked at the menu and special board. It was a tough choice. I’m supposed to be eating healthy, but there were so many delicious options! Shrimp salad and fried green tomatoes? Or maybe sea scallops? Or the seared tuna? Feeling only remotely guilty about it, I eventually chose the deviled crab lunch. Two deviled crabs with homemade cole slaw and half a dozen peel and eat shrimp. It was devilishly divine! Far heavier than I usually eat at lunch, but I was burning

Opposite page Top: Budd the Scarlet Macaw, inspects guests arriving at the Glass House while playing with his toys (he's only nine). Bottom left: One of Melanie's custom pendant designs with a silver rod and a blue glass rod. Most of her designs are reminiscent of the lowcountry. Bottom right: Lunch! Deviled crab, slaw, and peel and eat shrimp, from Lucy Bell's Cafe. Yum!

This page Top left: A marsh tacky comes to greet me! Top and bottom right: Geese and goats at the community farm. I know, I know those aren't water related, but I love taking pictures of critters! calories with the heat and walking, right? Right? The only drawback was that I was then too full to justify a slice of the seven-layer carrot cake that looked absolutely yummy and a return trip to the island just for that purpose is highly likely.

After lunch (in the shade of a sprawling live oak), I continued on my way, but didn’t get far before I saw one of the marsh tackys grazing in a yard beside the road. Emily had pointed the house out earlier as belonging to one of the Gullah residents. I stopped beside the road for a photo and walked up to the fence. When I clicked my tongue, he trotted over eagerly, seemingly as curious about me as I was about him. I was surprised as the marsh ponies on Cumberland won’t go near you, but this boy was friendly! I offered him a handful of grass from my side of the fence and he accepted it like a gentleman, then, realizing I had no other treats, turned back to his grazing.

From there, I wandered down to Haig Point Road to the stables near the marina, hoping to talk to Erica, the lady who runs the Daufuskie Marsh Tacky Society, but I missed her. (All the more reason for another trip!) Since I was there, I grabbed an after-lunch beer from the gift shop, because I could, and read the information sheet I’d picked up from a stand by the corral. These horses were brought over by the Spanish and early settlers and their roots can be traced back to Iberian stock. They were eventually domesticated by Native Americans and settlers, and their roles in South Carolina history is fascinating, but there are only about 400 in existence today. The Daughters of the American Revolution in South Carolina have even adopted a marsh tacky mare! Visit www. daufuskiemarshtackysociety.org for more information.

After finishing my beer I set off down the road again and saw a sign for the community farm. Intrigued I stopped and explored. It was a good-sized compound with a lot of animals – goats, geese, chickens and ducks, some in pens, some roaming free, and most seemingly unbothered by humans. The lady who runs the farm, Pat Beichler, was giving one guest a tour on a golf cart and we chatted for a few minutes. The farm is supported by donations and help from volunteers.

Next I stopped in to the Daufuskie Island Rum Company, owned by Tony and Kristi Chase. Although they started out distilling their own rum over four years ago, they’ve since expanded their operation and now also produce vodka and bourbon as well. Two of their products that caught my eye were their Blueberry Lavender Vodka, and their Spiced Rum. The vodka is distilled with locally sourced blueberries and lavender and the rum is Tony’s own recipe of nine secret spices. The Chase’s are animal lovers, too. Their dog Daisy is on the label of a couple of their lines, and one dollar of every purchase goes to the Humane Society. Look for a feature article on this micro-distillery in the future, and in the meantime, you can learn more by visiting www.daufuskierum. com.

From there I went on to visit one of the most beautiful structures on the island, the First Union African Baptist Church. The first church was built in 1881, but was destroyed by a fire. It was rebuilt in 1884 where it still stands today and services are still held every Sunday. I’ve always loved beautiful houses of worship; to me it just feels like a tribute to God, and this small church was absolutely lovely, inside and out. In the sanctuary, plain white walls and simple crosses took one back to an earlier time and inspired prayer and silent reflection. I could have spent the rest of the afternoon there, but I’d like to think I took a little of that inspiration and peace with me when I left.

Just down the road was the Mary Fields School, mentioned in Pat Conroy’s book The Water is Wide. Today it hosts the post office and is also used for church and other community activities. Riding on, I took a left on Beach Drive, which led me to the Bloody Point Lighthouse and Museum and the Silver Dew Winery. It was getting late in the day and I was running out of time to explore like I would have liked, so I snapped some photos and added it to my list for “next time,” but when you visit, don’t miss it!

Next up on the journey was a visit to the Iron Fish Gallery. Blacksmith and metal artist Chase Allen was on site that day, talking with visitors and working on his art. His metal pieces reflect the lowcountry we all know and love in the form of fish, crabs, sea turtles, rays, and even whimsical mermaids. Large or small, each piece is unique and full of character. Chase is a friendly, down-to-earth local and I look forward to visiting with him again soon for another segment in our Featured Artist series. Check out his creations at www.ironfishart.com.

Having come full circle, I crossed the road and followed the long winding driveway to the small clearing where Silver Dew Pottery sits. I parked the Explorer in the shade and went inside the studio where Lancy was finishing up at the wheel while Emily closed out the books for the day. While they finished, I browsed the beautiful pottery they create, as well as a small selection of local books and artifacts they’ve collected over the years.

Their offerings this season include a variety of platters, bowls, mugs and decorative items, mostly done in lowcountry hues of blue, gray, brown and green, that seem drawn directly from the sky, sea, land and foliage of the island. My colors! The bottom of each piece is inscribed with their names, the date, the piece number, and the current season’s motif – this year a fish hook. All of their pieces are lead-free and safe for food, as well as dishwasher and microwave safe.

Lancy is a Daufuskie Island native. His grandfather first visited the island in 1898 and returned in 1913 as the lighthouse keeper for Bloody Point Light. Later, in the mid-50s he owned Silver Dew Winery, which the pottery studio is named after.

Lancy’s mother, Billie Burn, wrote a book about the Mary Dunn Cemetery, another called Stirrin’ the Pots on Daufuskie, a collection of

Left: A bottle of Blueberry Lavender Vodka, oh my!

Above: Sign for the Daufuskie Island Rum Company with their pretty pelican logo.

Below: Blue Crabs wall art by Chase Allen.

local recipes handed down through generations, and An Island Named Daufuskie. Lancy generously gifted me an autographed copy of the later and I picked up a copy of the cookbook in their studio. I look forward to spending time with both books as soon as time permits.

Lancy and Emily met in 1964 when he got out of the Army. “I saw Emily and a lightning bolt hit!” he said, smiling at his wife. The couple didn’t marry right away, however, because Lancy was busy living out a dream of his father and grandfather, to sail across the ocean on a small sailboat. “He’s always been obsessed with boats,” Emily added.

After sailing over 4,000 miles in the O.S.T.A.R. (Observer Singlehanded Trans-Atlantic Race )and finishing 26th out of 55 boats, he returned to Daufuskie and in 1974, married Emily. The couple opened Silver Dew Pottery in 1997. In addition to the studio, they also enjoy time on their home compound, where Lancy’s green thumb is evident by the trees bearing olives, avocados, persimmons, pears, oranges, and more, many of which they preserve. He also grows a large variety of vegetables and herbs that would be the envy of anyone with a culinary bent. On weekends they go fishing, shrimping or crabbing, which adds to their healthy diets and is just plain enjoyable.

After an interesting day exploring the island and a lovely visit with my friends, I was sad to leave. Being on Daufuskie took me back to earlier times, when things were simpler, less hectic, and when I felt grounded in nature and spirituality. It soothed the soul and fed creativity, and was warmed by friendship. I can’t wait to go back.

Many thanks to everyone I visited with, and especially Lancy and Emily Burn and B-Bop. See you soon!

Top Left: A gorgeous bowl by Lancy and Emily at Silver Dew Pottery.

Above: Lancy and Emily at their pottery wheel, still happy after 45 years of marriage!

Left: B-Bop, their Catahoula Leopard Cur, the official state dog of Louisiana. He's the sweetest big baby in the world as long as you don't mess with his humans!