Lukove Village

LUKOVË the Green-Blue Place

First Impressions 2

Similar to Piqeras, Vuno, and other coastal villages in the region, Lukovë is organized along a sloping ridge leading toward the water perpendicular to the national road. Lukovë is not physically connected to a beach but it isn’t far, and evidence of this fact is abundant. Much sooner in Lukovë than in the more remote mountain villages one finds signs of the beach: brightly colored fabrics and plastics stacked high and in all manner through the plate glass of the shops along the national road. A quick step down from the road though, along the gently winding ridge, one finds oneself again transported. Lukovë’s original fabric is tight and beautiful. With what amounts to a single pathway connecting all the houses there, the lots splinter off to the left and right down the hillside. Behind almost every house are orchards and vineyards, whose greenery winds itself back up and into the pathways, seeming to find a way to make its presence known within the setting of the stone walls along the pathway.

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First Impressions 2

Similar to Piqeras, Vuno, and other coastal villages in the region, Lukovë is organized along a sloping ridge leading toward the water perpendicular to the national road. Lukovë is not physically connected to a beach but it isn’t far, and evidence of this fact is abundant. Much sooner in Lukovë than in the more remote mountain villages one finds signs of the beach: brightly colored fabrics and plastics stacked high and in all manner through the plate glass of the shops along the national road. A quick step down from the road though, along the gently winding ridge, one finds oneself again transported. Lukovë’s original fabric is tight and beautiful. With what amounts to a single pathway connecting all the houses there, the lots splinter off to the left and right down the hillside. Behind almost every house are orchards and vineyards, whose greenery winds itself back up and into the pathways, seeming to find a way to make its presence known within the setting of the stone walls along the pathway.

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The Roots - the History 4

The etymology of the name of Lukovë likely derives from the Slavic word luk, which means “green place” or “dense forest.”

The first time that Lukovë appears in written documents occurs in the Ottoman cadaster of 1431 and then again one hundred years later in 1551 and 1582, each time under the name of “Llukova.” In the first cadastral registration the village had a total of forty-four houses.

The settlement of Lukovë probably dates to the eleventh century, though the terrain seems to have been inhabited since antiquity. The ruined walls of the town of Dhokna in the hills just above Lukovë date to the second century BCE, indicating a continuity of life that has existed in these areas for a long time.

The events are not confirmed but local legend has it that Dhokna was destroyed in antiquity, burned by the Roman legions of General Paulus Emilius, in the years 167–169 BCE, along with seventy other cities in Epirus.

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The Roots - the History 4

The etymology of the name of Lukovë likely derives from the Slavic word luk, which means “green place” or “dense forest.”

The first time that Lukovë appears in written documents occurs in the Ottoman cadaster of 1431 and then again one hundred years later in 1551 and 1582, each time under the name of “Llukova.” In the first cadastral registration the village had a total of forty-four houses.

The settlement of Lukovë probably dates to the eleventh century, though the terrain seems to have been inhabited since antiquity. The ruined walls of the town of Dhokna in the hills just above Lukovë date to the second century BCE, indicating a continuity of life that has existed in these areas for a long time.

The events are not confirmed but local legend has it that Dhokna was destroyed in antiquity, burned by the Roman legions of General Paulus Emilius, in the years 167–169 BCE, along with seventy other cities in Epirus.

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The people - the history 6

Lukovë residents have historically been involved in animal husbandry, and less with agriculture or fishing, regardless of the proximity to the sea. In the late Middle Ages many of the inhabitants of Lukovë migrated and worked as manual laborers in France and Italy. A large number of emigrant Albanians from Lukovë operated as soldiers in the charge the Kingdom of Naples, being distinguished for being especially skilled in shooting.

In nearly constant battles against the Ottoman yoke in the seventeenth century, Lukovë, like many coastal villages, was a hotbed of resistance efforts.

The village was burned by the Ottomans in 1912, forcing the population into exile in Corfu for nearly a year.

Perhaps Lukovë’s most famous resident is the legendary figure Kalina. Kalina was a major force during the popular resistance of the seventeenth century and the story of her life has been transmitted through legend for generations.

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The people - the history 6

Lukovë residents have historically been involved in animal husbandry, and less with agriculture or fishing, regardless of the proximity to the sea. In the late Middle Ages many of the inhabitants of Lukovë migrated and worked as manual laborers in France and Italy. A large number of emigrant Albanians from Lukovë operated as soldiers in the charge the Kingdom of Naples, being distinguished for being especially skilled in shooting.

In nearly constant battles against the Ottoman yoke in the seventeenth century, Lukovë, like many coastal villages, was a hotbed of resistance efforts.

The village was burned by the Ottomans in 1912, forcing the population into exile in Corfu for nearly a year.

Perhaps Lukovë’s most famous resident is the legendary figure Kalina. Kalina was a major force during the popular resistance of the seventeenth century and the story of her life has been transmitted through legend for generations.

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The People - culture & tradition

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Until the early twentieth century, men in Lukovë and the surrounding region would have worn the fustanella—a kilt sewn from fabric woven on a loom using fine wool or linen thread. The fustanella was sewn “in forty ruffles” and was accompanied by white trousers that stopped just below the knee. Beneath that, men wore a white tirq, or long pant, tied with tasseled braids. On top, men wore black-and-white vests and a traditional red hat, the feste, with a yellow tassel. Their clothing was accompanied by traditional leather moccasin shoes, mainly red with black tassels on top. Under the vest man wore wide-sleeved shirts, crafted in cambric or imported white fabric. In between, at the place where kilts joined vest, men wrapped a long sash, made by linen thread, mainly in red and rarely brown color. This sash was about two-and-a-half meters long and wide as the palm of the hand.

The traditional female dress is known as the veshta—a garment draped to the middle of the calf, the bottoms of which are decorated with a richly colored, crocheted tape. In lieu of a veshta, elderly women wore a fushtani, a kind of long and wide skirt dark in color. In Laberia, the fushtani would be accompanied by a woven cardigan, the libadë. This would first be worn by a woman during her wedding: it was indeed a major part of a dowry and held symbolic purpose. Typically it would have been sewn with thin fabric, with colors corresponding to the age of the woman (red for young girls, darkening with age, until black by the time women reached old age).

The “Lukova song”, similar to many other villages in the south is the “polyphony” a harmonized coordination of various voices into one single melody line. In addition to this, the songs of weddings and funerals present interest to the researchers due to the presence of the pagan elements in them.

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The People - culture & tradition

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Until the early twentieth century, men in Lukovë and the surrounding region would have worn the fustanella—a kilt sewn from fabric woven on a loom using fine wool or linen thread. The fustanella was sewn “in forty ruffles” and was accompanied by white trousers that stopped just below the knee. Beneath that, men wore a white tirq, or long pant, tied with tasseled braids. On top, men wore black-and-white vests and a traditional red hat, the feste, with a yellow tassel. Their clothing was accompanied by traditional leather moccasin shoes, mainly red with black tassels on top. Under the vest man wore wide-sleeved shirts, crafted in cambric or imported white fabric. In between, at the place where kilts joined vest, men wrapped a long sash, made by linen thread, mainly in red and rarely brown color. This sash was about two-and-a-half meters long and wide as the palm of the hand.

The traditional female dress is known as the veshta—a garment draped to the middle of the calf, the bottoms of which are decorated with a richly colored, crocheted tape. In lieu of a veshta, elderly women wore a fushtani, a kind of long and wide skirt dark in color. In Laberia, the fushtani would be accompanied by a woven cardigan, the libadë. This would first be worn by a woman during her wedding: it was indeed a major part of a dowry and held symbolic purpose. Typically it would have been sewn with thin fabric, with colors corresponding to the age of the woman (red for young girls, darkening with age, until black by the time women reached old age).

The “Lukova song”, similar to many other villages in the south is the “polyphony” a harmonized coordination of various voices into one single melody line. In addition to this, the songs of weddings and funerals present interest to the researchers due to the presence of the pagan elements in them.

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The setting - urban fabric

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LukovĂŤ is a coastal village and it is the southernmost village within the Himara Province. It is located directly in between the cities of Himara and Saranda, its coastal waters offering tourists the option of a combined beach and village experience in one place.

LukovĂŤ shares similar urban features to many of the villages of the province of Himara. Its narrow streets retain the character of the original medieval settlements, paved with cobblestone and both sides enclosed by the walls of the houses called avlli.

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The setting - urban fabric

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LukovĂŤ is a coastal village and it is the southernmost village within the Himara Province. It is located directly in between the cities of Himara and Saranda, its coastal waters offering tourists the option of a combined beach and village experience in one place.

LukovĂŤ shares similar urban features to many of the villages of the province of Himara. Its narrow streets retain the character of the original medieval settlements, paved with cobblestone and both sides enclosed by the walls of the houses called avlli.

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The setting - Architecture

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The houses of LukovÍ are built with local stone, the roofs mostly covered with stone slab, with vaulted entrance doors. LukovÍ’s older homes have maintained cisterns on the ground floor supplied by rainwater. These low, dark, ground floor cisterns historically served as a place in which to preserve food as well, due to steady, cooler temperatures that they maintain. Small manmade and animal pathways crisscross the hill on which the village is built, leading from the main road through the agricultural terraces and leading to the seaside. The village lies on two hills covered with olive and orange plantations at an altitude of 150 meters above sea level.

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The setting - Architecture

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The houses of LukovÍ are built with local stone, the roofs mostly covered with stone slab, with vaulted entrance doors. LukovÍ’s older homes have maintained cisterns on the ground floor supplied by rainwater. These low, dark, ground floor cisterns historically served as a place in which to preserve food as well, due to steady, cooler temperatures that they maintain. Small manmade and animal pathways crisscross the hill on which the village is built, leading from the main road through the agricultural terraces and leading to the seaside. The village lies on two hills covered with olive and orange plantations at an altitude of 150 meters above sea level.

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Lukova village impressions - architecture

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Lukova village impressions - architecture

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Lukova village impressions - landscape

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Lukova village impressions - landscape

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Places of worship - the new Church of St. Niphon

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There is evidence that a saint of the Orthodox Christian church, St. Niphon, was also born in LukovĂŤ sometime during the thirteenth century.

Initially he worked as a priest in the monastery of Mesopotamia, while later achieving the highest rank of Ecumenical Patriarch in Constantinople in 1310, and sainted upon his death.

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Places of worship - the new Church of St. Niphon

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There is evidence that a saint of the Orthodox Christian church, St. Niphon, was also born in LukovĂŤ sometime during the thirteenth century.

Initially he worked as a priest in the monastery of Mesopotamia, while later achieving the highest rank of Ecumenical Patriarch in Constantinople in 1310, and sainted upon his death.

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Places of worship - the Church of st. Friday

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Places of worship - the Church of st. Friday

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Places of worship - church & Monastery of Krorëz

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Documents from the wards of the Kingdom of Naples that date to eighteenth century note a battle in which thirty inhabitants of Lukovë were killed. In a gesture of gratitude, the King of Naples ordered the delivery of a bell to the hometown of the slain, which was installed at the monastery of Krorëz.

Church of St. Mary and Monastery in Krorëz. Photo courtesy: Fation Plaku Source: http://www.panoramio. com/photo/97029402

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Places of worship - church & Monastery of Krorëz

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Documents from the wards of the Kingdom of Naples that date to eighteenth century note a battle in which thirty inhabitants of Lukovë were killed. In a gesture of gratitude, the King of Naples ordered the delivery of a bell to the hometown of the slain, which was installed at the monastery of Krorëz.

Church of St. Mary and Monastery in Krorëz. Photo courtesy: Fation Plaku Source: http://www.panoramio. com/photo/97029402

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the sea & Lukova beaches as tourist destinations

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The village of Lukova is not physically connected to a beach but it isn’t far. Once you are on the national road passing through Lukova, you will find signs of the beach: Well known by vacationers, Lukovë’s “Beach of Caves” (Plazhi i Shpellave) and “Bunec Beach” (Plazhi i Bunecit) are popular tourist destinations.

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the sea & Lukova beaches as tourist destinations

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The village of Lukova is not physically connected to a beach but it isn’t far. Once you are on the national road passing through Lukova, you will find signs of the beach: Well known by vacationers, Lukovë’s “Beach of Caves” (Plazhi i Shpellave) and “Bunec Beach” (Plazhi i Bunecit) are popular tourist destinations.

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Youth Actions and Terraces

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During socialist system, when agriculture was one of the primary economic sectors and the approach was to “rely on our own resources”, extensive efforts to terrace the hilly and mountainous terrain of Lukovë began from 1966- on.

The terraces make the current cultural landscape of Lukova and the coast.

In 1972, Lukova became the center of Agricultural Enterprise in Coast [Ndërmarrja Bujqësore në Bregdet]. In 1991, the census counted the population at 2,076 inhabitants, since most of the residents were younger people from all over Albanian who worked in the agriculture sector, and Lukova was the “Center of National Youth Action”. Soon thereafter, most of the population migrated internally and emigrated to Greece, the United States, Canada, Italy, Germany, and elsewhere.

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Young people working at the construction of terraces in the hills / slopes of Lukove Source: http://lesvraisamisdelurss.eklablog.fr/retoursur-40-annees-d-albanie-socialiste-a118668968

Youth Actions and Terraces

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During socialist system, when agriculture was one of the primary economic sectors and the approach was to “rely on our own resources”, extensive efforts to terrace the hilly and mountainous terrain of Lukovë began from 1966- on.

The terraces make the current cultural landscape of Lukova and the coast.

In 1972, Lukova became the center of Agricultural Enterprise in Coast [Ndërmarrja Bujqësore në Bregdet]. In 1991, the census counted the population at 2,076 inhabitants, since most of the residents were younger people from all over Albanian who worked in the agriculture sector, and Lukova was the “Center of National Youth Action”. Soon thereafter, most of the population migrated internally and emigrated to Greece, the United States, Canada, Italy, Germany, and elsewhere.

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Young people working at the construction of terraces in the hills / slopes of Lukove Source: http://lesvraisamisdelurss.eklablog.fr/retoursur-40-annees-d-albanie-socialiste-a118668968

Facts & figures 28

Located in between the cities of Saranda and Himara not more than 30 minutes’ drive from either of them, Lukova offers very favorable conditions in terms of vicinity to the urban centers, the remote mountainous areas and the sea/.

In 1431- there is the first written evidence of LukovĂŤ in Ottoman cadaster, and the village had a total of 44 houses.

In 1852, Lukova had 340 inhabitants.

In 1912, the village was burned down by ottomans and referring to the registrations in in 1913 Lukova had 410 inhabitants.

In 1927, Lukova had 470 inhabitants.

In 1991, the census counted the population at 2076 inhabitants, but soon thereafter, most of the population emigrated abroad.

In 1918, a primary school, taught in Albanian, was established. At the time, this was fairly rare for the region, as most schools that did exist were conducted in Greek.

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Facts & figures 28

Located in between the cities of Saranda and Himara not more than 30 minutes’ drive from either of them, Lukova offers very favorable conditions in terms of vicinity to the urban centers, the remote mountainous areas and the sea/.

In 1431- there is the first written evidence of LukovĂŤ in Ottoman cadaster, and the village had a total of 44 houses.

In 1852, Lukova had 340 inhabitants.

In 1912, the village was burned down by ottomans and referring to the registrations in in 1913 Lukova had 410 inhabitants.

In 1927, Lukova had 470 inhabitants.

In 1991, the census counted the population at 2076 inhabitants, but soon thereafter, most of the population emigrated abroad.

In 1918, a primary school, taught in Albanian, was established. At the time, this was fairly rare for the region, as most schools that did exist were conducted in Greek.

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Imprint

Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al

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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication.

On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al

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Imprint

Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al

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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication.

On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al

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