Dhermi Village

DHĂ‹RMI

the precious stone of Riviera

First Impressions 2

When traveling south from Llogara Pass, the first twenty kilometers or so of the Riviera are experienced winding through a kind of vague terrain—a mixture of old and new buildings settled back within the trees and crowding up against the road. It is not until a sharp bend in the road, where the view suddenly opens up across a deep gorge, that Dhërmi is revealed, and one finally understands a primary sensibility of the Riviera: the iconic hillside village. Dhërmi is one of the gems of south Albania: incredibly rich in history, and due to its relative stability over time, more developed and a bit larger than other villages. Its geography is dramatic. From the national road the village seems impossibly stacked against the steep rock. The bell towers of centuries-old churches rise up in profile against the white fabric behind them, all of it interrupted in places by lush swaths of green overgrowth, anywhere it gets a chance. A stroll through the village though reveals a much more gentle landscape above—even wide swaths of flat space in a couple of lovely plazas. The village is organized as a kind of process to reach the church at the top. It is a lovely route that brings the walker across the various types of houses and smaller civic and religious buildings, and culminates in one of the more dramatic views of the entire Albanian coastline, set from within the yard of the church.

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First Impressions 2

When traveling south from Llogara Pass, the first twenty kilometers or so of the Riviera are experienced winding through a kind of vague terrain—a mixture of old and new buildings settled back within the trees and crowding up against the road. It is not until a sharp bend in the road, where the view suddenly opens up across a deep gorge, that Dhërmi is revealed, and one finally understands a primary sensibility of the Riviera: the iconic hillside village. Dhërmi is one of the gems of south Albania: incredibly rich in history, and due to its relative stability over time, more developed and a bit larger than other villages. Its geography is dramatic. From the national road the village seems impossibly stacked against the steep rock. The bell towers of centuries-old churches rise up in profile against the white fabric behind them, all of it interrupted in places by lush swaths of green overgrowth, anywhere it gets a chance. A stroll through the village though reveals a much more gentle landscape above—even wide swaths of flat space in a couple of lovely plazas. The village is organized as a kind of process to reach the church at the top. It is a lovely route that brings the walker across the various types of houses and smaller civic and religious buildings, and culminates in one of the more dramatic views of the entire Albanian coastline, set from within the yard of the church.

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The people - economic activity

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Dhërmi residents are mostly indigenous, though some settled having come from villages in Labëria, internal migration being common here. Historically, the residents were involved in animal husbandry, as the limited land is rugged and rocky, making agricultural work difficult. Olive cultivation and processing is, however, carried out—and has been for centuries, as evidenced in the Ottoman tax registers of 1551 and 1585, where olive oil, wine, and scant wheat and barley production are noted.

These documents also mention the cultivation of vegetables, fruit, and poultry.

Currently, people in Dhermi live on tourism related activities. About 45% of total bedding capacity of hotels in Himara region is located in Dhërmi offers various types of tourism activities, such as nature tourism, agro tourism, culture tourism, etc, due to the richness in natural and cultural landscape, traditional settlements, cultural heritage sites, agricultural landscapes, beaches, canyons and mountain sites of great natural beauty.

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The people - economic activity

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Dhërmi residents are mostly indigenous, though some settled having come from villages in Labëria, internal migration being common here. Historically, the residents were involved in animal husbandry, as the limited land is rugged and rocky, making agricultural work difficult. Olive cultivation and processing is, however, carried out—and has been for centuries, as evidenced in the Ottoman tax registers of 1551 and 1585, where olive oil, wine, and scant wheat and barley production are noted.

These documents also mention the cultivation of vegetables, fruit, and poultry.

Currently, people in Dhermi live on tourism related activities. About 45% of total bedding capacity of hotels in Himara region is located in Dhërmi offers various types of tourism activities, such as nature tourism, agro tourism, culture tourism, etc, due to the richness in natural and cultural landscape, traditional settlements, cultural heritage sites, agricultural landscapes, beaches, canyons and mountain sites of great natural beauty.

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The people - culture and tradition

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The traditional attire of the residents of Dhërmi is the same as the attire of other villages of the province: the white kilt, cut to below the knee, long and widesleeved white shirts, the vest crafted with traditional folk motifs using gold thread, and traditional socks and leather shoes with tassels. They wore a white hat, which continues to be worn.

Their characteristic singing, as elsewhere throughout the coast, polyphony, is a “musical symphony,” where five or six musical lines perfectly come together and are harmonized in a single line.

Albanian woman’s sleeveless coat of the 19th century. Source: ww.augusta-auction.com, accessed Feb.2016 7

The people - culture and tradition

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The traditional attire of the residents of Dhërmi is the same as the attire of other villages of the province: the white kilt, cut to below the knee, long and widesleeved white shirts, the vest crafted with traditional folk motifs using gold thread, and traditional socks and leather shoes with tassels. They wore a white hat, which continues to be worn.

Their characteristic singing, as elsewhere throughout the coast, polyphony, is a “musical symphony,” where five or six musical lines perfectly come together and are harmonized in a single line.

Albanian woman’s sleeveless coat of the 19th century. Source: ww.augusta-auction.com, accessed Feb.2016 7

The roots - the history 8

Dhërmi is the second largest village, after Himarë, in the province. Historical records suggest that this beautiful countryside of the Albanian coast has been continuously inhabited since antiquity.

In the second century BCE, in one of the beautiful beaches of Dhërmi, Julius Caesar, together with his troops, came to Orikum in the bay of Vlorë to conduct military operations. It was here, in the fourteenth to ninth centuries BCE, across the shores of Himarë and Dhërmi, that Bulgarian Byzantine kings, the Normans of Robert Guiscard, and the last Ottoman invaders also descended upon the coast.

In written Ottoman records, it is noted that Dhërmi residents were referred to as ‘derbend ‘meaning exempted from taxes and charges as custodians of road maintenance and safety. In the register of 1551, Dhërmi had forty-four houses, and later, in the register of 1582, fifty houses were recorded.

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The roots - the history 8

Dhërmi is the second largest village, after Himarë, in the province. Historical records suggest that this beautiful countryside of the Albanian coast has been continuously inhabited since antiquity.

In the second century BCE, in one of the beautiful beaches of Dhërmi, Julius Caesar, together with his troops, came to Orikum in the bay of Vlorë to conduct military operations. It was here, in the fourteenth to ninth centuries BCE, across the shores of Himarë and Dhërmi, that Bulgarian Byzantine kings, the Normans of Robert Guiscard, and the last Ottoman invaders also descended upon the coast.

In written Ottoman records, it is noted that Dhërmi residents were referred to as ‘derbend ‘meaning exempted from taxes and charges as custodians of road maintenance and safety. In the register of 1551, Dhërmi had forty-four houses, and later, in the register of 1582, fifty houses were recorded.

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The setting - neighborhood structure

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Currently, DhĂŤrmi consists of three sections or neighborhoods that form the village. Hondraqi is the first section visitors encounter after coming down from Llogara, the second is Gjileka (Gjin Leka), and the third, the village namesake, is DhĂŤrmi.

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The setting - neighborhood structure

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Currently, DhĂŤrmi consists of three sections or neighborhoods that form the village. Hondraqi is the first section visitors encounter after coming down from Llogara, the second is Gjileka (Gjin Leka), and the third, the village namesake, is DhĂŤrmi.

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The setting - Urban fabric

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On the western shoulders of the village rises the ‘Cika Mountain” also known as the “Peaks of Lightning”, mentioned as “infames scopulos Acroceraunia” by the Roman poet Horace. On the eastern side lies the coastline with small beautiful bays, including Gjipe, Dhrimadhes, and Palasa.

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The setting - Urban fabric

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On the western shoulders of the village rises the ‘Cika Mountain” also known as the “Peaks of Lightning”, mentioned as “infames scopulos Acroceraunia” by the Roman poet Horace. On the eastern side lies the coastline with small beautiful bays, including Gjipe, Dhrimadhes, and Palasa.

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The setting - Urban fabric and architecture

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Constructed on steep hillside 150 m above sea level, and surrounded on the western and eastern side by steep rocks the settlement of Dhërmi resembles an acropolis.

Taking into consideration Dhërmi’s steep and rocky location above the sea, and the impression it leaves as if emerging from the rocks, the town is often compared with Amalfi in Italy. All the dwellings are built with carved stones taken directly from the local terrain and have characteristic shapes. The people of Dhërmi have proven to be masters and craftsman of construction, building their houses in solid stone, with the special care of assuring view the sea. The small town of Dhërmi, with the stone and white painted houses, pitched red roofs emerged into the dense greenery of the natural wild and cultivated vegetation, represent a typical Mediterranean setting.

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The setting - Urban fabric and architecture

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Constructed on steep hillside 150 m above sea level, and surrounded on the western and eastern side by steep rocks the settlement of Dhërmi resembles an acropolis.

Taking into consideration Dhërmi’s steep and rocky location above the sea, and the impression it leaves as if emerging from the rocks, the town is often compared with Amalfi in Italy. All the dwellings are built with carved stones taken directly from the local terrain and have characteristic shapes. The people of Dhërmi have proven to be masters and craftsman of construction, building their houses in solid stone, with the special care of assuring view the sea. The small town of Dhërmi, with the stone and white painted houses, pitched red roofs emerged into the dense greenery of the natural wild and cultivated vegetation, represent a typical Mediterranean setting.

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the monasteries of Dhermi

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At the top of the village, perched boldly on a rocky outcropping sits the Monastery of Pangji (Manastiri i PangjisÍ). The church grounds date all the way to the thirteen to fourteenth century. There are three other monasteries—the most famous of them being St. Theodore, in addition to the Monastery of St. Mary and the Monastery of Stavridh.

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the monasteries of Dhermi

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At the top of the village, perched boldly on a rocky outcropping sits the Monastery of Pangji (Manastiri i PangjisÍ). The church grounds date all the way to the thirteen to fourteenth century. There are three other monasteries—the most famous of them being St. Theodore, in addition to the Monastery of St. Mary and the Monastery of Stavridh.

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the churches of Dhermi 20

There are two large churches —the church of Saint Harallamb and that of Saint Spiridon—as well as a number of other smaller churches, built mainly with the financial support of emigrants. Churches of more architectural and iconographic interest include the Church of St. Stephen and the Church of St. Demetrius.

St. Demetrius possesses the oldest frescoes in Albania dating to the twelfth century. Latin documents of the sixteenth to seventeenth centuries talk about efforts made by the Catholic Church, through the order of Basilians, for the conversion of Himarë and especially Dhërmi. They also established a seminar for priests in the Albanian language.

The feast of St. Mary is one of the most popular celebrations of the village.

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the churches of Dhermi 20

There are two large churches —the church of Saint Harallamb and that of Saint Spiridon—as well as a number of other smaller churches, built mainly with the financial support of emigrants. Churches of more architectural and iconographic interest include the Church of St. Stephen and the Church of St. Demetrius.

St. Demetrius possesses the oldest frescoes in Albania dating to the twelfth century. Latin documents of the sixteenth to seventeenth centuries talk about efforts made by the Catholic Church, through the order of Basilians, for the conversion of Himarë and especially Dhërmi. They also established a seminar for priests in the Albanian language.

The feast of St. Mary is one of the most popular celebrations of the village.

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Petro Marko house 22

One of the outstanding writers of literature, Petro Marko, was born in DhĂŤrmi and his house has been preserved as a monument of culture.

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Petro Marko house 22

One of the outstanding writers of literature, Petro Marko, was born in DhĂŤrmi and his house has been preserved as a monument of culture.

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The caves of Dhermi 24

In the south of the village on the rocky coast is situated a great deep cave known as the “Cave of Pirates.” In the northern part of the coast of Dhërmi, in a small and rocky bay called the Bay of Gramata. This name comes from a large number of inscriptions carved into the rock. These were made by Roman emperors, sailors, various pirates, and even the famous Italian humanist Kyriakos of Ancona, all who passed there at one time or another.

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The caves of Dhermi 24

In the south of the village on the rocky coast is situated a great deep cave known as the “Cave of Pirates.” In the northern part of the coast of Dhërmi, in a small and rocky bay called the Bay of Gramata. This name comes from a large number of inscriptions carved into the rock. These were made by Roman emperors, sailors, various pirates, and even the famous Italian humanist Kyriakos of Ancona, all who passed there at one time or another.

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Dhermi Visualization in the 19th century

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Important visualizations of the Himarë region occurred in the nineteenth century. Traveling diplomats, missionaries, and artists, influenced by the ideas of the European Enlightenment, came through the territories of southern Albania, documenting what they saw along the way.

This wave of foreign travelers produced its first maps. There are a series of paintings, engravings, watercolors, and sketches, which address the characteristic subjects of landscape, costumes, and the area populations of the time.

Among the prominent artist travelers are the Britons Cartright, Richard Caton Woodville, and the painter Edward Lear. Lear undertook two long trips in the province of Himarë, the first in 1848 and again in 1856. Apart from his travel diaries— in which he marked in great detail his contacts, conversations, and the characteristics of places he visited—Lear drew a large number of landscapes of Himara and its surrounding environments in watercolor, almost all of which are stored in the archives of Harvard University.

The paintings of Edward Lear, stored in the archives of Harvard University, are accessed in Feb.2015, from: oasis.lib.harvard.edu/oasis/ deliver/~hou01475

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Dhermi Visualization in the 19th century

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Important visualizations of the Himarë region occurred in the nineteenth century. Traveling diplomats, missionaries, and artists, influenced by the ideas of the European Enlightenment, came through the territories of southern Albania, documenting what they saw along the way.

This wave of foreign travelers produced its first maps. There are a series of paintings, engravings, watercolors, and sketches, which address the characteristic subjects of landscape, costumes, and the area populations of the time.

Among the prominent artist travelers are the Britons Cartright, Richard Caton Woodville, and the painter Edward Lear. Lear undertook two long trips in the province of Himarë, the first in 1848 and again in 1856. Apart from his travel diaries— in which he marked in great detail his contacts, conversations, and the characteristics of places he visited—Lear drew a large number of landscapes of Himara and its surrounding environments in watercolor, almost all of which are stored in the archives of Harvard University.

The paintings of Edward Lear, stored in the archives of Harvard University, are accessed in Feb.2015, from: oasis.lib.harvard.edu/oasis/ deliver/~hou01475

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facts & figures 28

The village of Dhermi remains the centre of the unit for the local population, in terms of culture attractions, history and services.

Currently there are less than 1000 inhabitants in the town, but resident population is expected to grow through return of migrants along with tourism development of the area. The village boundaries have already been affected by recent residential expansion to the south along the national road. This small town is an asset, but there is a necessity to preserve its natural setting and visual perception from the beach.

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facts & figures 28

The village of Dhermi remains the centre of the unit for the local population, in terms of culture attractions, history and services.

Currently there are less than 1000 inhabitants in the town, but resident population is expected to grow through return of migrants along with tourism development of the area. The village boundaries have already been affected by recent residential expansion to the south along the national road. This small town is an asset, but there is a necessity to preserve its natural setting and visual perception from the beach.

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Imprint

Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al

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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication.

On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al

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Imprint

Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al

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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication.

On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al

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