My Go To

By Craig Kaminer / Photos by Spencer Pernikoff

Because I grew up in New York City and lived in Italy, people always ask me which are my favorite restaurants? Most of the time, I just share a list of places and let them figure out what they are in the mood to eat. I used to always recommend fancier places, but for the last few years, I have been suggesting places similar to where I went nightly in Florence. All have consistently great food, welcoming and passionate servers, an owner who is deeply engaged, and an intimate atmosphere where you always feel like a regular.

Louie is one of those places and we eat there weekly. It has a simple, Italian-forward menu, with just enough regular offerings and a handful of specials to make ordering easy and uncomplicated. The team has worked together for years, are like family with each other and their guests, treat everyone like they own the place, and strive for perfection every time.

Located in the Demun neighborhood of Clayton, Louie is surrounded by Sasha’s Wine Bar, the original Kaldi’s Coffee, and Clementine’s Creamery – all of which are standouts in their own right and attract lines nightly. Together, they complement and support each other. My opinion: their clientele protect this little slice of culinary heaven by not telling too many of their friends about it!

Since it opened in 2017, I have eaten everything on the menu. For me, the perfect evening starts with a bottle of Poliziano Vino Nobile from Montepulciano, a half portion of the freshly sliced prosciutto, shaved parmesan cheese, and drizzle of Tuscan olive oil, then the roasted chicken with rapini (broccoli rabe). I always razz my wife that we eat too much chicken at home, but the roasted chicken at Louie is without compare. The portions are generous, so I typically share this with my wife.

While this is my go-to order, some of my other favorites are the charred eggplant dip or hummus as starters, burrata and heirloom tomatoes when they’re in season, a margherita Neapolitan pizza, the grilled pork chop with shisito peppers, or the polenta. While I rarely order dessert, their panna cotta and ice cream sandwiches are the best. But don’t forget that Clementine’s is down the block - there’s always a wait - so the options are bountiful for something great.

The somewhat shy and reclusive owner, Matt McGuire, is one of the great restaurateurs in St. Louis. He was the founder of King Louie’s in the Grove long before the Grove was the Grove. He worked with Gerard Craft for a number of years and ran Brasserie by Niche in the Central West End. Later, McGuire partnered with out-of-town investors on Central Table on Euclid Ave., and while it was great, its location, large size, and Central West End drama were responsible for a premature closing. After some time off spent strategizing, McGuire has hit the long ball home run with Louie… and his fans applaud him every chance they get.

Louie has a small but great wine list, carefully crafted cocktails, perfect menu, and a team that goes out of its way to make your meal the best anywhere. If you have been here before, you know what I am talking about. If you haven’t or can’t get a reservation, you don’t know what you’re missing. It’s so good that we make reservations weeks out just so we have them!

If you don’t have a reservation, try sitting at the bar. The bartenders are fun, happy to give you tastes of wine, and you can always strike up a conversation with a regular from the neighborhood or someone alone on a business trip (remember those?) who searched “best restaurants in St. Louis” and decided on Louie.

As St. Louis’ native son and famed restaurateur Danny Meyer will tell you, it is not just about the food...it’s about the hospitality. The host is on top of it, and will have you wait at the bar or Sasha’s until your table is ready. The servers know their stuff, will make recommendations, and may even pull up a chair to meet everyone at the table. McGuire does his best to say hi to guests; but make no mistake about it, he is watching everything going on from his prosciutto perch in the corner. When he has a second to say hello, you’ll know him because he is frequently stopped by regulars giving him big hugs.

The only complaint I have ever heard about Louie is that it can be loud at times. For me, I love the energy, the laughter, and the crowd. After a couple of years of silence, the buzz and commotion are welcome. It’s hip, stylish, and always foodie. In fact, many of the top chefs in town camp out at the bar, supporting McGuire and I am sure trying to figure out what makes this place tick.

Whatever it is, I would want my restaurant – if I had one – to have the same vibe.