5 minute read
By Georges
Jean-Georges brings the Far East to Nashville at Drusie & Darr
Written by Dave Mahanes / Photos courtesy of The Hermitage Hotel
Over 20 years ago, when Melissa and I lived in New York, we celebrated our anniversary at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s eponymous restaurant, Jean-Georges. It was new at the time and a big deal for us to get a reservation. But, wow, was it an incredible epicurean adventure. We also enjoyed dining at Jean-Georges’ Matador Room at the Edition where we stayed last summer on our South Beach vacation. It was a wonderful cornucopia of JeanGeorges’ take on Spanish, Caribbean, Latin, and South American fare. So, you can imagine how thrilled Melissa and I were to learn that Jean-Georges was opening his first restaurant in the American Southeast, Drusie & Darr, as the signature restaurant in the beautiful historic Hermitage Hotel.
The name Drusie & Darr derives from the names of the two children of the hotel’s former General Manager who lived and grew up playing in the hotel.
Jean-Georges is a world-renowned chef with sharp business acumen and a successful restauranteur who runs 40 classic dining destinations worldwide. The master chef grew up around Strasbourg in Alsace, France. He studied under some of the most prestigious master chefs in France. After his apprenticeship in France, he moved his training to Asia, including stints at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok, the Meridien Hotel in Singapore, and the Mandarin Hotel in Hong Kong. As a result, the flavors of the Far East are pervasive in his dishes. Ingredients typically include fruit essences, herbal vinaigrettes, light broths, and vegetable juices. His visionary approach to cooking is grounded in French techniques while adding international elements to that template.
Vongerichten has tapped Kelsi Armijo as executive chef to oversee Drusie & Darr. Armijo has over ten years of experience guiding some of the finest dining establishments in the country, including most recently, The Peninsula Beverly Hills.
The former space of the Capitol Grille has received a complete makeover by designer Thomas Juul-Hansen as part of the overall renovation of The Hermitage. Juul-Hansen incorporates stone, wood, metal, and leather to create a warm, relaxed but sophisticated ambiance.
Crispy Sushi
The space retains its BeauxArts glory with its original oak walls and a vaulted ceiling, while the curved banquettes, tables, mother-of-pearl pendant lamps, and seating are unique to Drusie & Darr.
Broccolini
The arched ceiling is strikingly illuminated by lighting from globally famous Herve Descottes of L’Observatoire International. The state-of-the-art open kitchen provides a peek at the magic that happens backstage.
The menu features the finest Tennessee produce with seasonal dishes reflecting Tennessee culinary tradition with Jean-Georges’ international influences, particularly Asian. The Hermitage Hotel’s Garden at The Land Trust for Tennessee’s Glen Leven Farm provides much of the produce. The menu offers JeanGeorges’ signature oven-fired pizzas and modern plant-based dishes. The menu is organized into the following categories: Raw (Seafood), Salads, Appetizers, Pasta & Pizza, Plants, Fish & Meat, Simple, Sides, and a Tasting Menu. Fish & Meat are JeanGeorges’ creations, while Simple features fish or meat served with shishito peppers and a choice of preserved black bean vinaigrette, habanero hot sauce, or miso mustard.
Melissa and I began our Drusie & Darr culinary journey with two items from the Raw portion of the menu, the Ahi Tuna Tartare and the Crispy Sushi. The Ahi Tuna Tartare was a timbale of raw tuna, crushed avocado, radish, and ginger dressing, while the Crispy Sushi consisted of raw sea trout, chipotle emulsion, soy glaze, and mint. We also sampled the Celeriac Katsu from the Plant section with horseradish, lemon, and shiso. It was a great start to the evening. Next, we ordered from the Fish & Meat area of the menu for our main courses as we wanted the full Jean-Georges experience. Melissa had Maine Lobster served with longevity noodles, a fragrant and savory broth, spiked with green chili and ginger. The flavor was delectably complex, and a French take on Vietnamese Pho with lobster. I went for the Grilled Prime Filet of Beef medium rare presented with parsnip purée, roasted brussels sprouts, and miso mustard. The beef was of the highest quality and cooked to perfection. Both dishes were unique, delicious, and out-of-this-world creations. Our side of choice was broccoli rabe with garlic, chili, and lemon. We concluded our dining experience with the decadent Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla bean ice cream and cocoa nib tuile. It was an evening to remember.
