Lost & Found

Seeking serenity at Amangiri

Alone on a hiking trail deep at the heart of the high desert on the Colorado Plateau in mid-January, I found myself fighting back tears; the irony of my uncontrollable waterworks in this arid environment not escaping me. The salty droplets stung my cheeks as I wiped them away with gloved fingers that were nearly numb from the frigid temperature. I wasn't even sure if I was still on the trail at this point as there wasn't another living soul as far as the eye could see, and (gasp) I'd ventured into an area without cell service. For me, being awake to greet the dawn of a new day is already a special tie, and as the morning sun continued to rise, this fleeting moment of magic felt more bewitching, as I was privy to a tête–à–tête between sunlight and shadow that animated the ancient sandstone rock formations. Even though it was the third morning I'd been exceptionally privileged to witness this spectacle, the surreal beauty of the scene continued to trigger an involuntary welling of my eyes in wonderment.

Sitting in silence until I could no longer handle the chill, I located the familiar cairns that are used to mark the trail, added one teeny pebble on top to commemorate the moment, and made a beeline for Amangiri, the storied resort set amidst 600 acres in Canyon Point, Utah. Although it feels quite remote, the property is a 20-minute drive from the Glen Canyon Dam at the end of popular Lake Powell. The resort provides complimentary transfers to guests who arrive via Page Municipal Airport, just 25-minutes away.

Rather than try to upstage Mother Nature’s handiwork, the developers sought to have the 34-room property virtually disappear into the base of the mesa where it is artfully sited. Turning off of a two-lane highway that seems to stretch into infinity, the resort begins to slowly reveal itself as a mirage while you travel up, down, and around spectacular rock formations. In any other setting, the arrow-straight lines of the resort’s architecture would be perceived as severe, but here, with walls erected of concrete that has been mixed with local aggregate to complement the variegated hues of the metamorphic sandstone all around, architecture becomes art.

Manmade features have been carefully orchestrated to mimic and magnify the landscape. A large rock outcropping, the terminus of which reminded me of an oversized cartoon nose in profile, served as the starting point for the layout of the physical structures of the property, including the resort pool, which follows the rock’s natural contours. Moving outward from the pool is Amangiri’s “living room,” a multiuse space with seating areas oriented to four large fireplaces, floor-to-ceiling windows, an open kitchen with wood-fired oven and chef’s counter, a library, and a gallery-style gift shop with jewelry, art, and objects that highlight local artisans. The spa, guest rooms, and suites extend like open arms from this central gathering point. Interspersed along the way, and communicated utilizing changes in elevation and direction, are strategic openings intended to frame a view, along with water features that imbue the concrete with a time-worn patina and break the desert’s silence.

Guest accommodations have been conceived in a similar vein of refined austerity. The muted and monochromatic color scheme derived from the surrounding landscape creates a Zenlike atmosphere; utilitarian furnishings were custom-designed to meld into the physical space. Simple pegs and a timber beam flush-mounted on the concrete wall near the entry to my 1,000-square-foot Desert View Suite held a thoughtful array of amenities to use for my daily sojourns: a walking stick, sunhat, natural fiber bag, and a flashlight. French doors opened to a terrace with a gas fireplace integrated into bench seating that served as the only barrier between me and the expanse beyond; the breadth seemed even more profound at 4am when I would seek repose there to admire a night sky with more brilliance than any assemblage of diamonds I’d ever been privy to.

The spa-like bathroom boasted a wet room with a soaking tub centered on a tall picture window, and a large shower with showerheads on opposing walls. A spacious closet opposite the dual vanity was designed in a similar fashion to its counterpart in the bedroom, which cleverly concealed the television and pantry with a coffee machine, a refrigerator stocked with complimentary drinks, and a tempting selection of Dean & DeLuca snacks.

Exploring the more than 25 miles of marked trails on the property was obviously something I relished in, but for those not interested in exploring on their own, Amangiri adventure staff offer twice-daily complimentary guided hikes on property. As an enthusiast of archaeology and Native American culture, I signed up for a short morning hike to Broken Arrow Cave; its massive opening resembled the gaping mouth of a whale shark as it filters plankton from the ocean. Professional excavation of the cave has provided evidence of human habitation dating back to 6300 BC, although its name is derived from a more contemporary reference: the 1996 film Broken Arrow, starring John Travolta and Christian Slater. A climactic scene from the movie was filmed adjacent to the cave and remnants from the set, including a faux mineshaft, still remain.

Arguably an extreme offering for a brand so inextricably tied with tranquility, Amangiri has teamed up with Adventure Partners, the property’s on-site guide service, to offer resort guests exclusive access to six Via Ferrata climbing routes (there are only eight routes in total in the United States). An Italian word meaning “iron road,” Via Ferrata originated in the Alps and is a method of assisted rock climbing that essentially allows less experienced climbers like me to scale peaks that would otherwise be outside the realm of possibility.

Staring up at the nearly 600-foot-tall peak I was about to tackle, my knees were trembling and my intense fear of heights prompted a fight or flight battle to rattle around in my mind. Even though I knew that being clipped onto the stainless-steel aircraft cable that snaked up the peak would limit any fall or slip to no more than five feet, the irrational “what ifs” tended to materialize at the most inopportune moments. With the ardent encouragement of my guide, who had the patience of a saint and encouraged me to keep going even when I practically pleaded to turn back, I ever so slowly ascended by alternating between climbing staple-like rungs permanently affixed to the rock in particularly tricky spots and more “authentic” rock climbing, where I had to feel around the surface of the stone to discern the most ideal hand and footholds.

By the time I reached the apex, a state of absolute euphoria rushed over me; I stopped to catch my breath, only to have it taken away again by the sweeping views that extended all the way to the Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. The descent was just as exciting and involved crossing a 200-foot suspension bridge that linked two peaks (I refused to cast my eyes anywhere but straight ahead) and then rappelling down a crevasse on the other side.

The Aman brand as a whole is legendary for its “your wish is my command” philosophy in meeting guests’ requests, and an in-room adventure guide provides a good starting point for crafting both self-chaperoned and guided experiences in the immediate area. A sampling of on-property activities includes horseback riding, mountain biking, complimentary yoga, and fitness classes, and full use of the fitness center and the unisex Water Pavilion area in the spa with a dry sauna, steam, cold plunge, and soaking pool. Offsite, the options are limited only by your time and energy. A private guided tour led by Adventure Partners through the famous (and hugely popular) slot canyons nearby is an absolute must and provides access to places devoid of crushing crowds, so you can fully enjoy the magnificence of these natural sculptures. Boating, hot air balloon tours, working with paleontologists to unearth dinosaur bones, rafting, and miles and miles of hiking are all also easily accessible excursions.

A destination in its own right, the impressive 25,000 square-foot Aman Spa draws inspiration for its holistic menu from Navajo healing traditions and utilizes chemical-free Aman skincare products. The spa is such a tranquil and well-designed place of respite that I found myself lingering there frequently to unwind in the surroundings with a cup of herbal Navajo tea, brewed from the indigenous green thread plant. One of the most popular treatments and the spa’s signature service is the Desert Dream: a 135-minute journey that begins with craniosacral therapy while floating weightlessly in a saltwater pool, followed by 30 minutes of unattended floating, before finishing with a 60-minute aromatherapy massage.

Under the direction of Executive Chef Jacob Anaya, the dining experience is an absolute delight that delivers an exciting journey through the culinary traditions of the Southwest and beyond. The standard room rate at Amangiri includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner for two guests per suite (inclusive of nonalcoholic beverages). A New Mexico native that grew up in a multi-cultural household, Anaya began cooking at a young age under the tutelage of his mother and grandmother, using produce grown in their own garden. The passion he feels for his craft is infectious and discernable in every bite. His plating is so beautifully executed (in particular the vegetarian options), that you’ll want to wait until the light wanes enough to obscure the view outside the floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining room so you can fully appreciate the edible artistry.

It is little wonder that the exclusive Aman brand has inspired a legion of “Aman Junkies”. And, it is also not surprising that the company chose this magical part of the country, which boasts the highest concentration of National Parks and National Monuments in the United States, for one of its two US outposts. Setting out on a trail at sunrise each morning and watching the resort slowly disappear from view as I trekked on, I found that it only took me minutes to feel “lost”, but in an equal amount of time, I was able to discover so much more.

Standard daily rate at Amangiri from $1,400, based on double occupancy. For more information and to make reservations visit online at Amangiri.com.