3 minute read
Devon
Dramatic white cliffs meet rolling hills of green on the southern tip of England, a bucolic landscape evoking the land of hobbits.
Clovelly is a small fishing village nestled into Devon's northern coast, home to fewer than five hundred people. Life in the village has revolved around fishing since the time immemorial and as the village streets are unusually steep and narrow, for some five hundred years the locals have been using wooden sledges to pull the daily catch up to the village. Today Clovelly rings of true Devonshire spirit and its whitewashed houses and traditional fish fare are but a few of the attractions this charming corner of Devon has to offer.
The coast beckons with wild surf, purple heath and romantic legends of King Arthur, while in Devon’s interior time stands still. Verdant pastures fringed by endless ribbons of low stone walls enchant visitors who come in search of locally grown products and fresh sea air, away from the tourist resorts of the so-called British Riviera on Devon’s southern coast. Appledore, a coastal village located north of Clovelly, is a perfect example of Devon at its best. The confluence of the rivers Taw and Torridge is framed by sandy beaches and in the harbour humble fishing boats jostle for space with luxury yachts. The pastel facades of the village houses wear the mark of time – just as in much of Devonshire, Appledore’s settlement history goes far back. In spite of the progress of time, the community seems to have preserved the slow pace of life of yesteryear, with local restaurants serving the same traditional seafood that has been served here for generations. This is Devon, where azure blue skies give way to stormy clouds and the jolly squabble of seagulls surrenders to roaring waves. ■
Clovelly still exudes the magic of a true fishing village. Steep lanes shelter small houses buried in greenery and every path leads towards the harbour. In the past tourists were taken uphill by donkeys but today they must use their own two feet. Thankfully there are several local pubs along the way and you can recharge your batteries while taking photos of the stunning panorama.
The colour palette is rooted in tried and tested basics. Steel blue, light grey and weathered white on house fronts, adorned with red flower planters that are brimming with colourful geraniums.
The Clovelly harbour is the traditional epicentre of village life. Fishermen’s nets belong to Devon as much as local agricultural products and the county’s green pastures.
Devon’s beaches are wild and serene, pebbly and sandy – there is a beach for everyone.
Appledore, separated from Clovelly by the arc of a bay, is both a favourite destination and a starting point for a number of excursions – Devon offers up castles, islands and surfing beaches.
text: Kristýna Svobodová | photo: Lucie Desmond
