Where Traveler San Francisco, Winter 2021

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

WINTER

2021

MUST-SEE MUSEUM EXHIBITS FOOD TRUCKS TO FOLLOW CHINATOWN AND NORTH BEACH FOR FOOD AND CULTURE

Beauty by the Bay

EXPERIENCE THE WONDROUS WATERFRONT THROUGH ITS HISTORY, SCENERY AND DINING

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EVERYBODY’S GARDEN

OPEN DAILY

WINTER

2021

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS Where Now City Tours Maps

4 6 14 46

THE GUIDE Shopping Art Dining Attractions & Explore Wine Country

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

WINTER

2021

MUST-SEE MUSEUM EXHIBITS FOOD TRUCKS TO FOLLOW CHINATOWN AND NORTH BEACH FOR FOOD AND CULTURE

Beauty by the Bay

EXPERIENCE THE WONDROUS WATERFRONT THROUGH ITS HISTORY, SCENERY AND DINING

27 30 32 39 44

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House of Nanking in Chinatown

ON THE

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COVER Dining at Waterbar with a view of the San FranciscoOakland Bay Bridge

Levi’s exhibit at Contemporary Jewish Museum

FEATURE

10 On the Waterfront

Exploring San Francisco’s bay coastline, with its all-important ports, wharves and Embarcadero, offers an appealing path for experiencing the city’s history, scenery and dining. BY SPUD HILTON PLEASE CHECK WEBSITES OR CALL BUSINESSES FOR COVID-19-RELATED UPDATES BEFORE ACTING ON INFORMATION PRINTED IN THIS ISSUE.

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FROM TOP: COURTESY HOUSE OF NANKING; COURTESY CONTEMPORARY JEWISH MUSEUM. COVER: AUBRIE PICK PHOTOGRAPHY/WATERBAR

Ask the Expert

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clarkFineart.com

415.397.7781

INSIDER TIPS

Ask the EXPERT appealing to a wide range of tastes.

Galleries are free and located at 1275 Minnesota Street and 1150 25th Street (by appointment only).

PRESIDENT

Jeff Levy

GROUP PUBLISHER NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

Nikki Wood EDITOR

Concierge St. Regis San Francisco

Q: What’s the best way to capture the culture of Chinatown?

A: If you aren’t lucky enough to be visiting San Francisco during the Chinese New Year’s parade in February, a walk down Stockton Street is the next best thing. Here you will find bustling crowds of locals shopping for food, spices and herbs. You might also duck into the many alleys you may pass with scores of shops brimming with potential gifts. Don’t forget to stop in at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley, and for the nouveau-Chinatown experience, finish at George Chen’s China Live that features a marketplace, snacks, teas, and elegant sit-down dining at Eight Tables.

Q: What museums or galleries capture the artistic side of the city?

A: The Dogpatch area is rapidly growing as a home for the local contemporary art community. While there are many studios, visit the Minnesota Street Project, a group of three warehouses that contain galleries with a range of local creations

Spud Hilton

Q: Do you have favorite restaurants for al fresco dining?

A: Given the times, most open restaurants have an outdoor dining area, but for the truly San Francisco experience, John’s Grill is still the winner. Now in its 112th year, John’s features a 700-square-foot outdoor area near Union Square, great steak, fresh seafood, personable staff and an amazing history blazed by the century of previous guests and stories that make up their legacy.

MARKETING/PRODUCTION MANAGER

Q: What do you recommend for guests who want to get out on the bay, either on tour boats or by ferry?

A: From dinner cruises to schooners to sail boats, San Francisco offers many professional tour options for those who want to get their nautical on. The more adventurous can rent a kayak, either with a tour or on your own, from San Francisco Kayak and Adventures or at City Kayak, at Pier 40 near Oracle Park.

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COURTESY CAROLINE JEWEL

CAROLINE JEWEL

Q: How can guests best experience the waterfront, past and present?

A: If you have the time and stamina, start at Chase Center and walk the Bay Trail up Embarcadero all the way to Ghirardelli Square. The old and the new will greet you along the way in the form of buildings, art, watering holes, and eventually, Fisherman’s Wharf, not to mention the many piers you will pass, once bustling with commerce. It’s about 4 miles, but you can start virtually anywhere along the route.

ROBERT KIPNISS

E L I Z A B E T H PAT T E R S O N

CK CONTEMPORARY ORIGINAL PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURE

246 POWELL STREET SAN FR ANCISCO 415. 397.0114 CKCONTEMPOR ARY.COM

WHERE NOW WINTER SPRING

DINING ART

Art and Culture Sites Welcome You Back

San Francisco’s world-renowned museums reopen with powerful exhibitions

by EMMA KRASOV

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Opposite from top: Levi Strauss exhibit at the Contemporary Jewish Museum; Tibetan art at the Asian Art Museum; a custom motorcycle at the Museum of Craft and Design.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY SFMOMA; CONTEMPORARY JEWISH MUSEUM; ASIAN ART MUSEUM; MUSEUM OF CRAFT AND DESIGN

YOU’LL HAVE TO preorder tickets online, wear a face mask, provide contactless payment and keep your distance from other visitors, but engaging with San Francisco’s worldclass museums is as thrilling as ever.

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) presents “David Park, A Retrospective,” 127 paintings and drawings by the pioneer of Bay Area Figurative Art. 151 Third St., 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org The Asian Art Museum explores Himalayan paintings, sculptures, and textiles designed for meditation and self-knowledge in “Awaken: A Tibetan Buddhist Journey Toward Enlightenment.“ 200 Larkin St., 415.581.3500, asianart.org The Contemporary Jewish Museum (CJM) follows the birth of the iconic blue jean in “Levi Strauss: A History of American Style,” focusing on the 1873 patent on placing metal rivets in denim work pants in San Francisco at the end of the Gold Rush. 736 Mission St., 415.655.7800, thecjm.org The Museum of Craft and Design (MCD) looks into the world of custom motorcycles, featuring cutting-edge motorcycles from around the globe, as well as models, sketches, and renderings that unveil the design process. 2569 Third St., 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 7

WHERE NOW WINTER

DINING

CREATIVE EATS ON THE STREET FORGET CHOWDER IN A BREAD BOWL, food trucks are the real San Francisco treat. While you will find food trucks offering standard tacos, burgers and barbecue, the city’s trucks also make incredibly creative fare that is affordable and family friendly. You’ll find everything from acai bowls to waffles and wild mashups of Asian, Mexican and Filipino cuisine like tikka masala burritos and sisig nachos. Accessible, surrounded by outdoor space and with the option to take your food and go, food truck parks are popular with both locals and visitors. Though they are busiest in the summer and fall, thanks to San Francisco’s mild weather many operate pretty much year round. Best of all, because most locations offer multiple trucks, everyone can pick and choose.

Though locations vary, Off The Grid has been the major food truck park operator for a decade in San Francisco. Adapting to meet the needs of the local community, OTG mobile parks have popped up at shopping malls, historic landmark districts and even the airport. Check offthegrid.com to find out the most current schedule. —AMY SHERMAN 8 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

KoJa Kitchen A favorite among rotating vendors at SPARK Social SF food truck park. Korean- and Japanese-influenced KoJa Kitchen offers savory and sweet kalbi Korean short rib sandwiches, served on a unique “bun” of two crispy fried garlic rice patties. kojakitchen.com, sparksocialsf.com Hookt Doughnuts Across the street from Spark Social is Parklab Gardens, home of the Stagecoach Greens, an 18-hole San Franciscothemed mini golf course and ontrend Hookt Doughnuts. Serving doughnuts freshly cooked to order, it has quickly built a rabid fan base. hooktminidoughnuts.com, parklabgardens.com Codmother Fish & Chips Wander a block inland from Fisherman’s Wharf and look for the Union Jack at the corner of Jones and Beach streets. In addition to freshly fried fish and chips, there is fried shrimp and Baja-style fish or shrimp tacos. Upgrade your fries with added Parmesan cheese and garlic. codmother.com

TOP: COURTESY KOJA KITCHEN. LEFT: COURTESY HOOKT DOUGHNUTS

FOLLOWING THE FOOD TRUCKS

On the

WATERFRONT Discover San Francisco’s deep connection to the bay through the historical landmarks, fishing fleets, ferry boats and bridge-view bistros

by SPUD HILTON

10 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

IF THERE’S ONE element of San Francisco that has dominated the city’s history and heritage more than tourism, tech and trade combined, it’s the waterfront. The sweeping, curved shoreline from the Golden Gate to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge has always been important here—a city bordered on three sides by water—for transportation, recreation, trade and travelers, for armadas of fishing boats and waves

FERRY BUILDING: NATALIE AND CODY GANTZ

of immigrants. And as with other cities with shorelines dominated by docks, marinas, wharves and warehouses, the waterfront in San Francisco in modern times has evolved into much more than a revolving door for goods and people. San Francisco’s waterfront today is still about trade and transportation, but also is about leisure, dining, adventure, exploration, hospitality and shopping. And there are more than a few simple,

fun ways to experience the waterfront, past and present, to get the big picture of the city’s front door.

Hike/Bike The great majority of the city’s north and east shores are predictably flat, allowing for easy, fast walking and biking, and for heartier folks, it is possible to walk from bridge to bridge, including along the entire Embarcadero and through Fort Baker,

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 11

Dining During the rough and rowdy times of the late 1800s, the sailors, captains and longshoremen having a meal at any of the countless saloons and boarding houses along the waterfront probably didn’t think much about the bay views. (For one thing, it was really dark with no bridges or significant light from other cities.)

Today, the views generally are far better than back then as is, presum-

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ably, the cuisine. Among the best places to combine the two these days are: Epic Steak and neighboring Waterbar, both of which have outdoor tables near the water almost under the Bay Bridge. Farther north, find bayside tables and a taste of Peru at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, near Pier 1, as well as upscale tapas and cocktails at Coqueta a few doors down. More casual options include Hog Island Oyster Co. at the Ferry Building, the laid-back Pier 23 Cafe (which had a large outdoor patio before it was trendy) and, for secondfloor views of the marina and the famous sea lions, try Fog Harbor Fishhouse or Swiss Louis Italian & Seafood Restaurant, both in Pier 39.

History Experiencing the historical side of the waterfront depends heavily on what era you’re aiming for. Before the Gold Rush, the original shoreline was farther inland, so much so that all of Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, the

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WATERBAR; JOHN FLECK/ALCATRAZ CRUISES; VISITFISHERMANSWHARF.COM (2); EPIC STEAK

Marina Green and Crissy Field all the way to Fort Point. The Embarcadero offers diversions along the way (see pp. 14 and 22 for the City Tours of Fisherman’s Wharf and the Embarcadero), including a walking route that weaves behind the buildings, along the piers and wharves (look for Bay Trail signs). Make sure to walk out to the ends of Pier 7 and Pier 14, pedestrian walkways north and south of the Ferry Building, respectively, that stretch a couple of football fields into the bay and offer

stunning views of the waterfront, the Bay Bridge and the rest of the bay. At Fisherman’s Wharf, walk the working docks where the city’s fishing fleet has been returning with Dungeness crab and fresh fish for more than a century. Once past Fisherman’s Wharf, wander out to the end of the public pier at Aquatic Park. The curved, cement structure is still a popular spot for public fishing and it offers unobstructed views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and Angel Island.

AWAY ON THE BAY Among the more exciting ways to experience San Francisco’s waterfront is to board a vessel and see it from the water. Here are operators who offer cruise and ferry services around the bay.

Alcatraz Cruises Official operator for transportation to the island and tours there. Departs: Pier 33. alcatrazcruises.com Angel Island Tiburon Ferry Round-trip service between Tiburon and Angel Island State Park on the weekends.

Departs: Ferry dock near the end of Tiburon Boulevard. angelislandferry.com Bay Voyager Offers bay tours on a high-speed boat for private parties of up to eight people.

Departs: Pier 39. bayvoyager.com

Clockwise from left: Night dining at Waterbar; the boat to Alcatraz; Dungeness crab at Fisherman’s Wharf; the F line streetcar passes Boudin Bakery; braised wagyu short ribs from Epic Steak.

Embarcadero and the Ferry building all would be in the bay back then (and the North Beach neighborhood actually included a beach). Among the more colorful remnants of that era is the Old Ship Saloon on Pacific Street that was built on the ruins of the Arkansas, a Gold Rush-era ship that was abandoned in 1849, became landlocked and was turned into a bar. The current building was erected after the ship was dismantled and is said to be the last bar left that was connected to the practice of drugging and kidnapping men to work on ships, better known as Shanghai-ing. Other glimpses of his-

tory include: riding the vintage F line streetcars along the waterfront; get a view from Aquatic Park of the historical masted ships and boats lining Hyde Street Pier, part of the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park; and the restored wetlands at the end of Crissy Field, parts of which look as they were before the Spanish arrived. Finally, at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge’s south anchorage is Fort Point, a red-brick battery built in the 1850s to protect the bay from invaders. (The grounds are open, although the fort’s interior was still closed at press time.)

Blue and Gold Fleet Operates the popular route between San Francisco and Sausalito. Departs: Pier 41. blueandgoldfleet.com Golden Gate Ferry Commutercentric ferry service among San Francisco, Sausalito and Tiburon.

Departs: San Francisco Ferry Building. goldengate.org Red and White Fleet Offers a variety of cruises around the bay, including under the Golden Gate Bridge. Departs: Pier 43.5. redandwhite.com San Francisco Bay Ferry Commuter-centric ferry service among San Francisco, Alameda and Jack London Square in Oakland, weekdays only as of press time. Departs: San Francisco Ferry Building. sanfranciscobayferry.com San Francisco Water Taxi Hop-on/hop-off service in small boats among Hyde Street Fishing Pier, Pier 39 and Pier 1.5 near the Ferry Building.

Also offers custom service. sanfranciscowatertaxi.org

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Fisherman’s Wharf POPULAR PORT DISTRICT STILL A HUGE DRAW FOR FANS OF OLD-SCHOOL SEAFOOD, NEW ATTRACTIONS AND PEEKS AT THE CITY’S PAST It’s unlikely the Italian immigrant fishermen who built up the original Fisherman’s Wharf in the 19th century could have foreseen what it would become: the most popular dining, shopping and entertainment district for San Francisco visitors.

Although in fairness to their legacy, it still serves its original purpose. Peek behind the curtains of shops, bistros, attractions and diversions, and you still find a home base for fleets of commercial and sport fishing boats

loaded with whatever catch comes in from season to season. For a glimpse, check out the fishing docks at the base of Pier 45, behind Alioto’s restaurant, as well as the working docks on Pier 47.

It’s easy to tap into the history, culture and characters of Fisherman’s Wharf by following the Port Walk, a series of historical markers along the waterfront from Pier 41 to Hyde Street. Also, experience the neighborhood’s heritage through San Francisco Maritime

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National Historical Park, from the murals and models at the ship-shaped Maritime Museum, to the Hyde Street Pier, an outdoor museum with a fleet of vessles predominantly from the 1800s.

TIP: Attractions, cafes and museums around Fisherman’s Wharf are evolving to comply with healthy practices, so call or check online first.

ATTRACTIONS For those whose love of sea life goes beyond seafood, the Aquarium of the Bay at Pier 39 offers a close-up view of a world under the waves, including two clear tunnels that give an underwater perspective of species that live in San Francisco Bay. Visitors can experience the bay from the opposite angle on the neighboring Flyer

San Francisco, a high-tech ride that simulates soaring over the city’s biggest landmarks. Pier 39 also is where to find the wild sea lions that 30 years ago took up residence next door on floating docks. Observation stands provide a front-row view of a population that can grow to 900 in winter.

Jefferson Street, the main strip in Fisherman’s Wharf, is home to visitor-favorites Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum, and the San Francisco Dungeon, a guided, theatrical experience that focuses on city history.

At Pier 45 is Musée Méchanique, a warehouse with more than 300 mechanical toys and amusements from coin-operated pianos to antique slot machines.

Fisherman’s Wharf also

is the launching point for the ferries to Sausalito, Angel Island and Tiburon, as well as for the tour boats to Alcatraz and bay cruise boats. Among them is the Bay Voyager, a rigid-inflatable boat (8 passenger limit) that explores the city’s coast and distant parts of the bay.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SPUD HILTON (2); COURTESY OF VISIT FISHERMANSWHARF; SYLVIA MATZKOWIAK/SF TRAVEL; SPUD HILTON

DINING The two main concentrations of restaurants in Fisherman’s Wharf are at Pier 39 and along Jefferson Street, including near the fishing fleet docks where there’s a cluster of old-school seafood restaurants (some owned by the same families for generations), including Alioto’s, Castagnola’s, the Grotto, and Scoma’s on Pier 47.

On Pier 39, a variety of bistros have expanded to outdoor dining, including Fog Harbor Fish House, the Wipeout Bar & Grill and the Luau Lounge.

Among the other culinary highlights on Jefferson Street is the Boudin Bakery complex, where the famous sourdough rounds are always available to take home or take to the park for a picnic. Walk a block up Hyde Street to the famous Buena Vista Cafe, either to dine outside or to get some take-out and nosh in Victorian Park across the street. Either way, get a creamy Irish coffee at the cafe where the drink was invented. Down the street at San Francisco icon Ghirardelli Square,

original home to the famous chocolate, there are good options for outdoor dining, including dim sum at Palette Tea House and pints at San Francisco Brewing Co. Don’t leave without getting ice cream from the Ghirardelli Chocolate Marketplace.

RECREATION Because Fisherman’s Wharf is so popular with visitors, it also is a hot spot for choices on how to experience and get around the city. Just up Hyde Street from the Buena Vista, visitors can rent bikes or electric-assisted bikes at Blazing Saddles for pedaling over the Golden Gate Bridge, rolling down the Embarcadero or exploring the

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Produce at the pier; Pier 39 flags; Pier 39 visitors; fishing docks; bakers at Boudin Bakery.

Presidio. Other ways of getting around: Segway tours with Electric Tour Company; GPS-guided tours in a GoCar; or up and down the hills with San Francisco Jeep Tours.

If walking is the way to go, it’s easy to find a slice of local life exploring Aquatic Park, a beach and waterfront area protected by the municipal pier. Walk out to the end of the pier for views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and the city.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Union Square

operation, but were not running as of press time.

DISTRICT AROUND SAN FRANCISCO’S PLAZA IS THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN AND A DRAW FOR SHOPPERS, FOODIES AND THEATER FANS

ART

Originally a vacant sandlot ringed by 19th century homes, churches and social clubs, Union Square today is the heart of downtown San Francisco and one of its most beloved outdoor spaces. The square itself, modeled after the grand plazas and piazzas of Europe’s great cities, today is surrounded several blocks deep by some of the biggest names in fashion, art, jewelry, hospitality, theater and dining.

The square earned its name while it served as a meeting place for

supporters of the Union during the Civil War, and the 97-foot monument at its center, raised in 1904, is dedicated to Admiral Dewey’s victory at Manilla Bay during the Spanish-American War. During the 20th century, it and the surrounding neighborhood evolved into a destination for locals and visitors alike, bustling day and night.

Two of the neighborhood’s top attractions, the Cable Cars that trundle past the square on Powell Street, and the theater district are scheduled to resume

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The sculpture topping the Dewey monument is of the Greek goddess Nike, holding a trident in one hand and a wreath in the other and was based on a poor, young model, Alma de Brettville (who went on to marry sugar baron Adoph Spreckels, one of the wealthiest men in San Francisco at the time).

The monument also was dedicated to President William McKinley, but he didn’t live long enough to see it completed.

The square holds one of the highest concentrations of the heart-shaped sculptures of the “Hearts in San Francisco” project that were painted by Bay Area artists and that raised millions for a local

hospital foundation. One of most Instagrammed hearts on the square is titled “America’s Greatest City By the Bay,” painted by singer Tony Bennett who made the city synonymous with hearts with the hit song “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” Other artists and luminaries who have painted hearts include Phil Frank, Hung Liu and Roy de Forest.

The neighborhood around Union Square has become well-known among art enthusiasts for the collection of fineart galleries, including many within two blocks of the square. Visitors will find works by Renoir and Manet (Christopher-Clark Fine Art), Warhol and Lichetenstein (Meyerovich Gallery), Basquiat and Dalí (Martin

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: UNION SQUARE B.I.D.; SCOTT CHERNIS PHOTOGRAPHY; UNION SQUARE B.I.D.; SPUD HILTON (2)

Lawrence Galleries), as well as European contemporary art (CK Contemporary) and fine art glass

by Chihyuly and Marioni (Montague Gallery).

Also, visitors should take a moment to walk up Stockton Street and peek between the Apple Store and the Grand Hyatt San Francisco at Ruth Asawa’s San Francisco Fountain, a whimsical bronze sculpture from 1970 that features dozens of iconic city scenes.

SHOPPING A quick 360-degree glance from the Dewey monument helps illustrate why Union Square has become a huge draw for shoppers. Macy’s takes up one horizon,

while Apple, Tiffany & Co. and Saks Fifth Avenue take up another.

Add in the massive Nike store on one corner and Neiman Marcus on the next, as well as the scores of galleries and boutiques only a block or two away, from Williams-Sonoma to The North Face to Shreve & Co. jewelers.

A side trip down Powell Street offers UNIQLO Union Square, Urban Outfitter and Sephora and, eventually the shopping-heavy stretch of Market Street that includes brand-boutique shops for names such as Timberland and Doc Martens, as well as the Westfield San Francisco Centre, a mall with more than 200 shops and

restaurants. The center is anchored by the West Coast-flagship Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom.

DINING

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Westin St. Francis; Union Square; Tony Bennett’s heart; Neiman Marcus; the Dewey monument.

San Francisco has a reputation for great dining and many of the city’s best spots are evolving to meet state and local policies with outdoor tables and limited seating inside. For a sit-down experience, try 620 Jones, a chic cocktail bar with southern-comfort menu and an outdoor, terrace. A popular outdoor spot during the day is Emporio Rulli, a cafe on Union Square with coffee, pastries and sandwiches.

Chic French-Vietnamese restaurant Le Colonial has dining on its open-air patio. At the base of the

Post Hotel, the Honey Honey Cafe & Crepery is a good bet for breakfast and lunch.

The square offers spots to sit and nosh on lunch.

Among the better options for takeout and delivery, as well as sit-down dining, is New Delhi Restaurant, a family owned spot close to the square with traditional Indian cuisine.

TIP: As of press time, most restaurants offer drinks only with a food purchase.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

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Chinatown + North Beach SAN FRANCISCO’S TWO BEST-KNOWN CULTURAL DISTRICTS OFFER A DELICIOUS GLIMPSE INTO THE CITY’S HISTORY, HERITAGE AND CUISINE It shouldn’t surprise anyone that San Francisco’s most enduring culturally based neighborhoods were established by two groups of immigrants who did most of the heavy lifting to build the city into a legitimate metropolis. Waves of Chinese immigrants came for the Gold Rush but also established a foothold that now is the oldest and largest Chinese enclave outside of Asia. The flood of Italian immigrants, mostly fishermen working on the waterfront, arrived

about 30 to 40 years later, congregating around Telegraph Hill, supposedly because the hilly terrain reminded them of home. Today, the neighboring neighborhoods are among the city’s most popular for visitors, if only because they offer the true flavors (figuratively and literally) of the cultures that laid roots more than a century ago. North Beach later became more known for the Beat movement in the 1950s and the parade of soon-tobe-famous comedians

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and musicians who passed through nearly every club on Broadway and Columbus Street, from Jack Kerouac and Woody Allen to Lenny Bruce and Miles Davis.

DINING While the original wave of Chinese immigrants were from Guangdong Province, Chinatown’s food scene today covers a wide range. Visitors who like it hot will find dishes with a Szechuan heart at the popular Z&Y Restaurant, where chef Li Jun Han has served hot pots and hand-pulled noodles to presidents of China and the United States. The R&G Lounge on Kearny Street is well known for its salt-andpepper Dungeness crab and other Cantoneseinspired dishes. For more

modern takes on the cuisine, there’s the Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s and its signature Dutch Crunch barbecue pork buns, as well as the China Live complex, where the restaurant serves up old-meetsnew dishes. Another good bet: the popular House of Nanking.

Once you cross Columbus Street or Broadway, the cafés, restaurants and pastry shops take on a distinctly Italian turn, including a seemingly endless supply of pizza joints—do not walk into the first one you see. Many of the culinary highlights in the neighborhood are within a block or two of Washington Square, a grassy, tree-fringed park that is the heart of the neighborhood. Nearby

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SPUD HILTON (2); STEFANO POLITI MARKOVINA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY CHINA LIVE

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana is nationally known for its extensive menu and is as popular with locals as with visitors.

Other pizza-centric spots with credentials include North Beach Pizza a block away from the park, Golden Boy Pizza around the corner from Tony’s, the Chicago-style Capo’s, Il Casaro and its Italian-style pie, and Tommaso’s, a landmark that opened in 1935.

Some of the neighborhood’s best Italian food and wine can be found at Cafe Zoetrope in the wedge-shaped Sentinel Building (owned by Francis Ford Coppola).

Back on Grant Street is seafood-centric Portofino, where the authentic

cioppino is among the most popular dishes, and on Vallejo Street is Caffé Trieste, a laid-back hangout popular with the Beat regulars when it opened in the 1950s. Other highlights on Washington Square include the popular Original Joe’s and the upscale Park Tavern.

If you just want the Italian vibe for a picnic or sandwiches in the park, stop by Molinari’s Delicatessen, which is filled with imported goods from the Old Country, and lays claim to being the oldest deli in the country, having opened in 1896.

ATTRACTIONS At Bush and Grant streets is the Lion’s Gate, an elaborate traditional Chinese

arch that was a gift from the Republic of China (Taiwan). Chinatown has been attracting visitors since the 1860s, although a stroll up Grant Street or the parallel Stockton Street make it clear the district is still a neighborhood, where most of the shoppers in the markets are locals stocking up on vegetables, fresh fish and every variety of mushroom imaginable.

For more people-watching, stop at Portsmouth Square, a sunny park where locals gather to relax, practice Tai Chi and play MahJong. Farther north is the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, a tiny shop where cookie-makers stuff and shape the ubiquitous treats.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Hanging lanterns; Bruce Lee mural; North Beach at night; Cantonese chicken at China Live.

On Washington Square is the ornate Saints Peter and Paul Church, built in 1924, where services are performed in English, Italian, Latin and Chinese.

Climb a few blocks east on Filbert Street and follow the stairs for the top of Telegraph Hill and the iconic Coit Tower. The tower itself was closed at press time, but a closeup view of the Art Deco structure, as well as the city views from the hilltop, are worth the climb.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Presidio FORMER ARMY BASE IS A CITY WITHIN A CITY, WITH PARKS, RESTAURANTS, MUSEUMS, ART AND SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS IN THE STATE It seems odd to be thankful that past military leaders, from Spanish conquistadors to Cold War-era U.S. generals, took up so much space in San Francisco. But if the Presidio had not been a military base for 219 years, the prime, scenic real estate at the southern end of Golden Gate Bridge would almost certainly be covered with mansions, resorts and condos. Instead, the Presidio, with its great swaths of forests, beaches and bluffs, is part of the National Park Service and protected as such.

The sprawling park, which is more than 5 percent of San Francisco’s total area and is larger than Golden Gate Park by a third, first opened as a Spanish Imperial Outpost in September 1776. After expanding and passing first to Mexico then to the United States in 1848, the U.S. Army base was decommissioned in 1989 and designed a National Historic Landmark District five years later. Since then the Presidio Trust has overseen efforts to find new uses for historical buildings and revitalize

20 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

the 300-acre forest and open spaces.

The Presidio today is four separate pieces: the Main Post area, including the original post, the visitors center and the old Letterman Hospital grounds; Crissy Field, the northern waterfront with rehabilitated wetlands; the southern wilds area, home to the natural forests, trails and the golf course; and the Golden Gate area, including Baker Beach, Fort Point and Fort Winfield Scott.

TIP: Most facilities for visitors are evolving to meet state and local guidelines, so call or go online first to verify if sites are open.

HISTORY & ART The strongest reminders of the Presidio’s storied past are the exhibits at the Officer’s Club, now a

museum and event space, the displays in the visitor’s center at the Main Post, monuments to World War II and the Korean War, the crumbling artillery batteries on the coast and, of course, the San Francisco National Cemetery, final resting place for more than 30,000 personnel, including Civil War generals, buffalo soldiers and a Union spy.

Among the quirky, lesser-known sites at the Presidio is the pet cemetery on McDowell Avenue under the Presidio Parkway viaduct, where from the 1950s through the ’70s, families living on base interred hundreds of pets, including dogs, cats, hamsters and a parakeet named Knuckle Head.

The park also houses public art by Andy Goldsworthy, who from

2008 to 2014 created four installations—Tree Fall, Earth Wall, Wood Line and Spire—meant to reflect the relationships among city, nature, people and place, and were created to complement the natural landscape.

For slightly more literal works, visitors to Letterman Digital Arts Center can find bronze statues celebrating film pioneer Eadweard Muybridge; television inventor Philo T. Farnsworth; and Yoda, a Jedi Master.

SPUD HILTON

ATTRACTIONS Among the top draws at the Presidio is the parade ground of the Main Post, in part for the sprawling lawn that’s perfect for picnics or relaxing in the

sun, but also for the nearby Walt Disney Family Museum. The captivating museum, which isn’t affiliated with Disney corporations, illustrates the entertainment mogul’s humble beginnings, innovations and successes, and is built into one of the Presidio’s historical redbrick barracks, looking on the outside pretty much as it did 120 years ago.

For photographers and Instagramers, a big draw is the Golden Gate Overlook, a spot chosen for one of the most compelling views of the massive bridge. The spot is on Lincoln Boulevard near Ralston Avenue.

Crissy Field, the former airstrip that in recent decades has been

returned to beaches and natural wetlands, has become a top draw, both for visitors and locals who want to relax, hike, bike or picnic in one of the most picturesque settings in the state. The only direct routes from the Presidio proper to Crissy Field are Halleck Street near the main post, and McDowell Avenue from the old cavalry stables. There are plenty of walking and biking trails in Crissy Field, including one that follows the waterfront west to Fort Point, the Civil Warera fortress at the bridge’s south anchorage.

For visitors seeking more recreation, there’s an extensive network of trails through the Southern Wilds area, as well as

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Parade grounds; Crissy Field wetlands; Visitor Center; Fort Winfield Scott; pet cemetery.

the Presidio Golf Course.

Trails also follow the Pacific coastline among the bluffs and beaches (see story on p. 10), offering stunning scenery.

DINING A good bet for outdoor dining is Sessions at the Presidio, a gastropub focused on comfort food and craft beer. As of press time, the Commissary and Arguello, both on the Main Post, were still waiting to reopen.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 21

CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Embarcadero THIS GRAND BOULEVARD IS THE CITY’S BEST FOR STROLLING, ROLLING, RIDING AND DINING, ALL THANKS TO A REALLY BIG EARTHQUAKE It turns out the Loma Prieta earthquake was the best thing to ever happen to the Embarcadero.

Before the 1989 temblor, the waterfront avenue was hidden under a raised freeway, a dark, charmless street lined with industrial wharves and crumbling piers. With the freeway long since torn down the Embarcadero today is one of San Francisco’s true jewels, a sweeping boulevard with bistros, palm trees, historical streetcars, public art and pedestrian piers, all of which makes it a great place to spend a day by the bay.

At its center is the Ferry Building, which before the Golden Gate and S.F.-Oakland Bay bridges were built was one of the busiest passenger ferry terminals in the United States. Now it is a vast marketplace, lined the length of two football fields with shops and restaurants, and the clock tower is one of the city’s most enduring landmarks (it survived the Loma Prieta quake and the 1906 earthquake and fire).

The Embarcadero is a prime route for strolling or biking—it’s probably the longest street you

22 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

can walk without running into a hill in this town— and offers striking views of many of the most beloved icons, including Coit Tower and the Transamerica Pyramid.

The Embarcadero also has dedicated lanes for the F line or E line streetcars, rehabbed antique trolleys from other cities in the world that run up and down Market and along the Embarcadero either toward Fisherman’s Wharf or south toward Oracle Park.

TIP: Odd-number piers are north of the Ferry Building, even-number piers are to the south; and while the bay side of the city tends to be warmer and less windy than the Pacific side, it’s best to dress in layers anyway—in case Karl the Fog decides to come along.

RECREATION If the 2 miles between Pier 23 and Oracle Park isn’t enough walking, there are some great detours, including two pedestrian piers—637foot Pier 14 and 840-foot Pier 7—that jut out into the bay, offering new angles of both the bay and the city. There’s also a portion of the San Francisco Bay Trail that hugs the waterfront, along public promenades and through and around some of the piers. There’s a dedicated bike lane for much of the Embarcadero, so renting wheels is a popular way to explore.

Places to stop and admire the view include pint-sized Rincon Park, a slice of meadow recognizable by the 60-foot-tall bow and arrow sticking out of the ground, a public

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: AMY SNYDER/EXPLORATORIUM; NATALIE AND CODY GANTZ (3)

art piece called Cupid’s Span. Farther south, beyond the Bay Bridge anchorage is Brannan Street Wharf Park and South Beach Park past Pier 38. Another highlight of the Embarcadero is the Exploratorium, a handson museum focused on science and nature.

DINING Dining in and around the Embarcadero is as varied as the boulevard is long.

Among the casual options is Pier 23 Cafe, a popular spot for oysters, fish tacos, hot chowder and cold cocktails on the laidback patio over the water.

Also with an outdoor patio is La Mar, a chic dinner spot serving authentic Peruvian cuisine with an

emphasis on seafood.

Down the road are Epic Steak steakhouse and its seafood-serving neighbor, Waterbar, both of which have outdoor dining with a front-row view of the Bay Bridge and the Bay Lights, a dazzling art display of 25,000 LED lights on the side of the bridge that starts around sunset.

If the weather’s good (fall typically is the warmest season), consider an evening picnic outside with upscale takeout from two of the city’s best-known bistros, Boulevard and One Market, each about a block from the Embarcadero. Down the road beyond the Bay Bridge anchorage, are the Hi Dive Bar and Red’s Java House, two

authentic, old-school San Francisco joints known for cold drinks and no-fuss menus of pubgrub, seafood and burgers. Red’s has a large outdoor patio over the water.

Whether dining in, taking out or taking home, the Ferry Building is itself a foodie destination. Among the scores of shops are vendors specializing in artisanal cheeses, meats, bread, chocolate and olive oil, including local favorites Cowgirl Creamery, Dandelion Chocolate and McEvoy Ranch.

TIP: The Ferry Building set up outdoor seating, making it easier to have a D.I.Y. picnic with goods from the shops.

A good bet for outdoor

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The Exploratorium; farmers market; the Ferry Building; Heath Ceramics in the Ferry Building.

tables on the waterfront side is Hog Island Oyster Company, specializing in all manner of oysters, clams and seafood stews.

Facing the city is Gott’s Roadside, a Napa Valley staple with upgraded comfort food (burgers, shakes, onion rings) and a long list of California wines. Visitors have even more options on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays when vendors set up out front for the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 23

CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Sausalito A WEALTH OF WATERFRONT DINING, BOUTIQUE SHOPS, GALLERIES AND STUNNING VIEWS MAKE THIS ARTSY ENCLAVE A GREAT DAY-TRIP OPTION Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, from San Francisco’s urban scene to the untamed nature of the craggy Marin Headlands, the first sign of civilization is Sausalito. Which is odd, since much of the town’s history hasn’t been so much about civilization as escaping it. Wedged on a slice of land between the hills of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and Richardson Bay, Sausalito is a quirky, homey, artsy anecdote to city life, where the pace is decidedly slower and the landscape more intimate.

Over the years, the

town has passed through periods influenced by Prohibition bootlegging, legal gambling, construction of the Golden Gate Bridge, a shipyard during World War II, waves of artists, Beats and hippies, a quirky floating enclave of houseboats, and sailing culture with a mile of marinas. The result today is a waterfront hamlet filled with shops specializing in art, wine, gifts and artisanal foods, as well as a collection of restaurants, from chic to no-frills, that offer dining over the bay with a view of Angel Island and its historic

24 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

structures. Add on a ferry terminal that welcomes day-trippers over from San Francisco or Tiburon and direct access from the bridge, and it’s easy to see why Sausalito is such a draw for day-trippers and overnighters.

DINING Because of the town’s narrow profile, most diversions line an avenue called Bridgeway, which stretches from Richardson Street downtown all the way to Marin City. Along the way are some of the Bay Area’s best restaurants with waterfront, outdoor dining, including the Trident, Scoma’s of Sausalito and, farther up the road, Salito’s Crab House & Prime Rib. On the other side of Bridgeway, options for sit-down dining range from the

Tuscan menu at Poggio Trattoria to inventive takes on Mexican cuisine at Copita Tequileria y Comida to casual sandwiches and pizza at Venice Gourmet & Giovanni’s Pizza, which looks out on the promenade.

Two enormously popular options for fans of fish—but with very different takes on it—are longtime landmark Sushi Ran, often ranked among the best in the Bay Area, and Fish, a laid-back seafood cafe near the yacht club with an outdoor patio and a loyal following.

If outdoor dining looks more like stolling and noshing or sitting on one of the many benches along the promenade with manchego cheese, sourdough and an amazing view, a good place to stock up is Sausalito Bakery

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; SPUD HILTON (3)

& Cafe across from the promenade. Consider also Golden Gate Market and Driver’s Market, both of which have deli counters and carry top-shelf cheeses, salads, breads and other supplies. For dessert, get a taste of the islands with a scoop of Kona Mocha Chip or Hawaiian Sea Salt Caramel from Lappert’s Ice Cream & Yogurt, a beloved branch of the Hawaii-based premium ice cream company.

ATTRACTIONS Sausalito is attractive to day-trippers who come over on the ferry in part because the downtown is easily walkable; most of the town’s popular sites are within a 10-minute stroll from the ferry docks.

Closest to the docks and the picturesque marina is Viña del Mar Park, a grassy plaza with a grand fountain and two 14-foot elephant statues originally from the 1915 PanamaPacific International Exposition in San Francisco.

Just south of the plaza is a block of boutiques, gift shops, cafes and art galleries, including Hanson Gallery Fine Art, which at press time also was offering vodka tastings. Farther south is the promenade, a quarter-mile sidewalk at the water’s edge with unobstructed views of Angel Island on the left and San Francisco in the distance.

For visitors with a car, it’s worth driving north to the opposite end of

Bridgeway and marina with Sausalito’s famous houseboat community.

The floating neighborhood grew from the closing of the Marinship shipyard at the end of World War II when a few industrious souls took from the leftover wood, steel and other supplies to build makeshift homes on Richardson Bay. After a few decades of waring between local authorities and what were essentially watery squatters, the result is a peaceful neighborhood with some wildly eclectic and unorthodox architecture, including houseboats made from a former 1889 steam schooner and another from a 1900 Pullman railcar. (Otis Redding is said to have written

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Waterfront walkway; statue on Viña del Mar Park; Poggio Trattoria; Sausalito Bakery & Cafe.

“Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay” while staying on a houseboat here in 1967.)

Drivers headed south from downtown should follow the signs to the former Fort Baker, which sits near the north end of the Golden Gate Bridge. The base’s historical structures have been preserved as Cavallo Point, a luxury resort that loops around the parade ground. Walk down to the Moore Road Pier for a great up-close view of the bridge.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE LISTINGS ON PP. 26-43. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGE 46.

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 25

WINTER

THE BEST IN S.F.

DOORS OPEN FOR DISNEY’S MAGIC

The Walt Disney Family Museum, which tells the story of Disney’s life through galleries, historical materials and artifacts, now offers timed-ticketing and listening stations accessible through the museum’s mobile app. Upcoming exhibitions include “The Walt Disney Studios and World War II” and “Veterans Voices: Painted Realities.”

104 Montgomery St. in the Presidio, 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

CALL FIRST Editor’s note: In recognition that everything in San Francisco is still evolving on a daily basis, we strongly urge readers to call or check details online for every shop, gallery, restaurant, tour company and attraction listed in The Guide.

Many businesses had not reopened or resumed operation at press time, and for many that have, there are significant changes in policies and practices. Those places that are ready are eager for your business, but please assume that you will be required to use a face mask and that you should keep a safe social distance while enjoying this magical city.

26 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

LEFT: COURTESY WALT DISNEY FAMILY MUSEUM. OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OMNIVORE BOOKS

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Culinary Titles on Omnivore’s Menu

Even through tough times for independent booksellers, Omnivore Books has continued to offer literature that chefs, foodies and collectors can sink their teeth into.

Having celebrated 12 years as San Francisco’s only culinary bookshop, Omnivore has become the destination shop for all manner of cookbooks and food-focused books, both current and antiquarian.

The locally owned store often is a stop for internationally known food writers and chefs doing book-signings. 3885A Cesar Chavez, 415.282.4712, omnivorebooks.com

ACCESSORIES & BAGS CHROME Practical and functional bags, street-tested by professional messengers and urban commuters, Chrome makes bags, footwear and apparel that adapt to unpredictability.

962 Valencia St., 415.874.9232, chromeindustries.com TIMBUK2 Messengers bags, as wells as laptop bags, backpacks, luggage, totes and accessories.

Customers can choose their own color combinations and play with specialty fabrics. 506 Hayes St., 415.252.9860; 587 Shotwell St., 415.321.6806, timbuk2.com

APPAREL

sweatshirts, tees and scarves that are made in San Francisco from sustainable materials 2106 Chestnut St., 415.400.4136; 1572 California St., 415.970.5785; 498 Hayes St., 415.829.7519, marinelayer.com

BOOKS, MUSIC & ELECTRONICS AMOEBA MUSIC Offers one of the largest selections of CDs, DVDs, videos, vinyl records, turntables and vintage rock posters anywhere. It also hosts live music performances that range in genre and are all-ages. 1855 Haight St., 415.831.1200; 2455 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley, 510.549.1125, amoeba.com

AZALEA BOUTIQUE Trendy boutique offers designs for men and women by the likes of Alexander Wang, A.P.C. and Richer Poorer, as well as an impressive inventory of denim. 411 Hayes St., 415.861.9888; 956 Valencia St., 415.682.6988, azaleasf.com

CITY LIGHTS BOOKSTORE Co-founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, this independent bookstore and publishing house has been a hub for writers and artists since the Beat era.

261 Columbus Ave., 415.362.8193, citylights.com

MARINE LAYER This clothing company sells luxuriously soft

OMNIVORE BOOKS Featuring new, antiquarian and

RED LISTINGS IN THE GUIDE ARE FEATURED ADVERTISERS

collectible books by and for culinary gurus, this bookstore is a wonderland for readers interested in food and drink. 3885A Cesar Chavez, 415.282.4712, omnivorebooks.com

CHILDREN’S SHOPS AMBASSADOR TOYS Find toys ranging from sciencethemed to traditional old world toys, books, arts and crafts, collectibles and puppets.

186 W. Portal Ave., 415.759.

TOYS; 2 Embarcadero Center, Lobby Level, 415.345.8697, ambassadortoys.com SMALL FRYS This hip children’s shop carries a variety of local brands, eco-friendly and organic items, accessories and baby essentials. 3985 24th St., 415.648.3954, smallfrys.com

DEPARTMENT STORES BLOOMINGDALE’S This is the second largest Bloomingdale’s store in the country, offering the latest fashions for women, men

and kids, plus home decor.

845 Market St., 415.856.5300, bloomingdales.com MACY’S The flagship store is housed in two buildings between O’Farrell and Geary streets on either side of Stockton Street and encompasses an entire city block. 170 O’Farrell St., 415.397.3333, macys.com NEIMAN MARCUS This shopping mecca features couture and accessories departments for men and women, plus highend lingerie and cosmetics. Enjoy a lobster club sandwich or high tea inside the Rotunda restaurant overlooking Union Square.

150 Stockton St., 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com

DISPENSARIES THE APOTHECARIUM This dispensary emphasizes education and customer service for seniors, first-time visitors and patients with serious medical conditions. Flow Kana products are available here. 2029 Market St., 415.500.2620; 2414

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 27

SHOPPING

PAXTON GATE Paxton Gate contains 2,000 square feet of vintage taxidermy, ethically sourced skulls and bones, unique plant life and an assortment of home goods for the curious collector. 824 Valencia St., 415.824.1872, paxtongate.com

JEWELRY Westfield San Francisco Centre

Lombard St., 415.408.6986; 527 Howard St., 415.741.0741, apothecarium.com GANJA GODDESS If you tend to shy away from going to a physical dispensary, Ganja Goddess is the perfect solution, offering deliveries of curated cannabis products ranging from edibles to concentrates to tinctures. Free shipping on orders over $75; most deliveries arrive within one business day. 855.426.5246, goddessdelivers.com THE GREEN DOOR Opened in 2003, this is one of the longest-operating dispensaries in California. Flow Kana products are available here. 843 Howard St., 415.541.9590, greendoorsf.com MOE GREENS This dispensary claims to be a “place where you can bring your mother” and offers three different lounges: a vaping lounge, an extracts lounge and a lounge with large booths. Flow Kana products are available here. 1276 Market St., 415.762.4255, moegreens.com VAPOR ROOM Founded in 2004, this cannabis dispensary has been at the forefront of the industry and provides caring and friendly service. Dogs are welcome. Flow Kana products are available here. 79 9th St., 415.626.2100, vaporroom.com

EYEWEAR WARBY PARKER The affordable eyeglasses retailer has

limited-edition styles you can’t find anywhere else.

357 Hayes St., 415.906.5313; 216 Stockton St., 415.528.2698, warbyparker.com

GOURMET & SPECIALTY FOODS DANDELION CHOCOLATE Dandelion is a bean-to-bar chocolate factory that only uses two ingredients, beans and sugar, and is meticulously sourced.

740 Valencia St.; 1 Ferry Building; 2600 16th St., 415.349.0942, dandelionchocolate.com RECCHIUTI CONFECTIONS Michael Recchiuti’s chocolates come in unusual flavors and designs. The company has been creating hand-made chocolates for 20 years. 1 Ferry Building Marketplace, Shop 30, 415.834.9494; 801 22nd St., 415.489.2881, recchiuti.com

HOME & DESIGN ATYS The modern items at this store are designed by architects and industrial designers. Most of the sleek pieces are imported from Denmark, Germany, France and Italy. 2149B Union St., 415.441.9220, atysdesign.com BIORDI ART IMPORTS The secret of Biordi’s success is to maintain a clientele with taste and a fond appreciation for Italian Renaissance-style majolica: exquisite objets d’art, hand-painted dinnerware and much more. 412 Columbus Ave., 415.392.8096, biordi.com

28 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

SHOPPING DESTINATIONS EMBARCADERO CENTER The office towers known as 1, 2, 3 and 4 Embarcadero house more than 70 retailers, 50 restaurants and a movie theater. Sacramento and Davis streets, 415.772.0700, embarcaderocenter.com FERRY BUILDING MARKETPLACE Located at the foot of Market Street, this marketplace is home to abundant food shops, ceramics, gardening supplies and skin care. 1 Ferry Building, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

LANG ANTIQUES Find fine jewels from every important design period, as well as estate diamond engagement rings, at this quaint little shop.

309 Sutter St., 800.924.2213, langantiques.com

STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER Browse more than 140 boutiques and admire the gardens and picturesque sculptures. 660 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 650.617.8200, stanfordshop.com

SHREVE & CO. One of the city’s leading purveyors of fine jewelry, watches and crystal, this San Francisco institution features an in-store Mikimoto pearl boutique, Rolex watches and more.

150 Post St., 415.421.2600; 329 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 650.327.2211, shreve.com

WESTFIELD SAN FRANCISCO CENTRE This nine-story shopping mall features Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and more than 200 shops and restaurants such as Aveda, Coach, Godiva Chocolatier, Kate Spade and Sephora.

865 Market St., 415.512.6776, westfield.com/sanfrancisco

MEN’S APPAREL

WOMEN’S APPAREL

CABLE CAR CLOTHIERS Cable Car offers classic Britishmade menswear, plus robes, boxer shorts, hats and scarves.

Don’t miss the barbershop.

110 Sutter St., 415.397.4740, cablecarclothiers.com

AMOUR VERT This eco-fashion brand plants a tree for every purchase. This company has set a new standard for socially responsible clothing. 437 Hayes St., 415.800.8576; 2110 Chestnut St., 415.654.5385; 1840 4th St., Berkeley, 510.898.1870, amourvert.com

WELCOME STRANGER High-end boutique for men’s apparel and shoes that are a blend of “rugged” (including brands associated with construction) and hipster chic.

Stylish grooming products also on the menu. 460 Gough St., 415.864.2079, welcomestranger.com

CUYANA Cuyana (“to love” in Quechua) creates premium apparel and accessories, designed with a classic, modern aesthetic, sourced from the world’s highestquality materials and crafted to last. 291 Geary St., Second Floor, 415.445.3001, cuyana.com

SHOES THE ALDEN SHOP This shoe company offers classic men’s footwear that represents New England’s tradition of custom boot-making. Find a complete line of shoes made with premium calfskins, luxurious suedes and genuine shell cordovan. 170 Sutter St., 415.421.6691, aldenshop.com

THE GROCERY STORE Hip European fashion oasis featuring cool clothing with a rock-star twist. 3687 Sacramento St., 415.928.3615 VER UNICA Upscale vintage shop has been San Francisco’s go-to for high-quality finds. The collection offers everything from ‘50s sundresses to ‘60s Chanel baubles to ‘70s Gucci bags.

526 Hayes St., 415.621.6259

SPUD HILTON

NEEDLEPOINT INC. For the best in hand-painted needlepoint designs, visit this shop in the heart of Jackson Square. Needlepoint Inc. carries a wide assortment of original canvases, fibers and stitching accessories. 326 Jackson St., 800.345.1622, needlepointinc.com

Photo by Simon Shim

LEAVE YOUR HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO. THE PULSE OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

.com DISCOVER THE PULSE OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

WHERE TO EAT • WHERE TO SHOP • WHAT TO DO

ART

Finding Frida

The de Young Museum presents “Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving,” featuring the iconic female artist’s paintings and drawings alongside her personal items. The trove of possessions—photographs, letters, jewelry, cosmetics and Mexican folk-style outfits—are on view for the first time since after Kahlo’s death in 1954.

50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

THE ANTIQUE TRADERS This shop has a fine collection of original art nouveau antique items, which includes lamps and art glass, chandeliers, stained and beveled glass windows, bronzes, sculptures and furniture. 4310 California St., 415.668.4444, theantiquetraders.com ARTHAUS ArtHaus specializes in contemporary works by established and midcareer Bay Area and New York artists. It also provides an intimate setting for cocktail receptions.

228 Townsend St., 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com CALDWELL SNYDER GALLERY Caldwell Snyder is a contemporary art gallery representing many significant international painters and sculptors from the 21st century.

It has introduced many artists to the Bay Area for the first time.

341 Sutter St., 415.392.2299; 1328 Main St., St. Helena, 707.200.5050, caldwellsnyder.com CATHARINE CLARK GALLERY This is a gallery with attitude. It specializes in contemporary painting and

new media installation art by emerging artists, often with social and political themes.

248 Utah St., 415.399.1439, cclarkgallery.com CCA WATTIS INSTITUTE The California College of the Arts’ Wattis Institute provides two floors of contemporary exhibition space that are free to the public, in addition to its artist residency and research programs.

360 Kansas St., 415.355.9670, wattis.org CHRISTOPHER-CLARK FINE ART This premier gallery features paintings, drawings and original prints by European masters. Find art by Gauguin, Renoir, Manet, Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Kandinsky and Dalí, plus Frankenthaler, de Kooning and Lichtenstein.

377 Geary St., 415.397.7781, clarkfineart.com CK CONTEMPORARY This gallery space is home to original paintings by noteworthy American and European contemporary artists. The gallery also works closely with collectors to assist clients in finding the perfect pieces for their home.

246 Powell St., 415.397.0114, ckcontemporary.com

30 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

DANIEL MERRIAM’S BUBBLE STREET GALLERY Bubble Street Gallery offers an eclectic mix of fine arts and crafts. Contemporary surrealist Daniel Merriam’s collection reflects styles from steampunk to neo-Victorian and pop surrealism. 565 Bridgeway Blvd., Sausalito, 415.339.0506, bubblestreetgallery.com FRAENKEL GALLERY Founded in 1979, this world-class gallery at 49 Geary focuses on photography, with rotating shows that span the medium’s history from the beginning to modern day. 49 Geary St., Fourth Floor, 415.981.2661, fraenkelgallery.com HACKETT MILL Hackett Mill represents the contemporary artists David Beck, Masatoyo Kishi, Manuel Neri, Raimonds Staprans, and Brian Wall and is the exclusive representative of David Park and Robert Schwartz. 145 Natoma St., 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com HASHIMOTO CONTEMPORARY Hashimoto Contemporary is home to an eclectic blend of new contemporary artists. The gallery focuses on a range of painting, sculpture

and installation-based work.

804 Sutter St., 415.655.9265, hashimotocontemporary.com JOHN BERGGRUEN GALLERY This gallery showcases works by 20th-century contemporary American and European painters and sculptors such as Richard Serra and Julie Mehretu, as well as historic exhibits of Georgia O’Keeffe and Matisse. 10 Hawthorne St., 415.781.4629, berggruen.com MARK WOLFE CONTEMPORARY ART This all-media gallery offers a mix of young urbanism and new traditional media. It focuses on exposition, showing works that encourage audiences to perceive visuals in new ways.

555 Sutter St., 415.369.9404, wolfecontemporary.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This gallery specializes in original paintings, sculptures and limited-edition graphics and features works

by Basquiat, Dalí, Warhol and emerging artists. 366 Geary St., 415.956.0345, martinlawrence.com MEYEROVICH GALLERY One of the country’s leading

ABOVE: COURTESY FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO. OPPOSITE: KATHERINE DU TIEL/SFMOMA

ART GALLERIES

ART galleries, Meyerovich specializes in American and European paintings, works on paper, graphics and sculpture by contemporary masters such as John Baldessari, Guy Dill, Alex Katz, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Motherwell, Chuck Arnoldi, Ross Bleckner, Deborah Kass, Andy Warhol, Frank Stella, Donald Sultan and Bernar Venet. The gallery has extensive experience in working with museums and international clientele. 251 Post St., Suite 400, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com MODERNISM This gallery’s museum-quality program emphasizes historical exhibitions of significant artistic movements, foremost the Russian AvantGarde 1910-1930. This was the first gallery to exhibit Andy Warhol in the Bay Area.

724 Ellis St., 415.541.0461, modernisminc.com/gallery MONTAGUE GALLERY The only gallery of its kind in San Francisco, Montague Gallery specializes in contemporary fine art glass with an expansive roster of world renowned artists including Dale Chihuly and Dante Marioni. 445A Sutter St., 415.964.4978, montaguegallery.com

from pop culture, offering original photographs, paintings and limited-edition prints of the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix and more. 458 Geary St., 415.441.8840, sfae.com SAN FRANCISCO CENTER FOR THE BOOK This gallery showcases every artistic aspect of books, from the antique to the experimental. Ponder exhibitions on censorship and literary forms, or take a workshop on bookmaking. 375 Rhode Island St., 415.565.0545, sfcb.org SCOTT NICHOLS GALLERY This gallery shows vintage and contemporary photographs by established and emerging artists. It’s home to an extensive inventory of photographs by iconic California photographers such as Ansel Adams and Dorothea Lange. 450 1st St. E, Sonoma, 707.343.1928, scottnicholsgallery.com SERGE SOROKKO GALLERY Located in Union Square, this gallery features postwar and contemporary art by acclaimed American and European artists, including Hunt Slonem, Ross Bleckner and Miguel Condé.

345 Sutter St., 415.421.7770, sorokko.com

“Our Ancestors’ Wildest Dreams,” mural at SFMOMA

history and culture throughout Asia, this museum is one of the largest in the Western Hemisphere devoted exclusively to Asian art. 200 Larkin St., 415.581.3500, asianart.org

and preserves arts that reflect the traditions of Chicano, Mexican, Central and South American and Caribbean societies.

2868 Mission St., 415.821.1155, missionculturalcenter.org

BAMPFA This museum has rotating art exhibitions that range from classical Chinese painting to abstract expressionism to provocative multimedia work, plus a film archive that offers screenings. 2155 Center St., Berkeley, 510.642.0808, bampfa.org

MUSEUM OF THE AFRICAN DIASPORA This cultural institution celebrates the richness of black culture and is one of the few museums in the world that exclusively examines the African diaspora. 685 Mission St., 415.358.7200, moadsf.org MUSEUM OF CRAFT AND DESIGN This is San Francisco’s only museum devoted exclusively to modern and contemporary craft and design. 2569 3rd St., 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

MONTGOMERY GALLERY This Jackson Square gallery offers works ranging from old masters to 20th-century modern, European and American impressionism, and 19thand 20th-century Californian.

545 Sansome St., 415.788.8300, montgomerygallery.com

TANGENT CONTEMPORARY ART This gallery showcases works from American and international artists that present new approaches to traditional media and challenge viewers’ perception. 373 Geary St., 415.956.9999, tangentart.com

CONTEMPORARY JEWISH MUSEUM Located in a Daniel Libeskind-designed building, the CJM explores contemporary perspectives on Jewish culture, history, art and ideas. 736 Mission St., 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

RENA BRANSTEN GALLERY Gallery includes established and emerging artists—such as Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Vik Muniz, Henry Wessel and Ron Nagle— whose work engages with contemporary social and cultural climates. 1275 Minnesota St., 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

WEINSTEIN GALLERY This gallery’s collection is dedicated to rare works of 20th-century masters including Picasso, Chagall, Calder and Matta. The gallery has works of surrealism and abstract expressionism, as well as contemporary figurative painters. 383 Geary St., 415.362.8155; 444 Clementina St., 415.362.8151, weinstein.com

DE YOUNG MUSEUM Founded in 1895, this impressively varied museum showcases collections from the Americas, Pacific Islands and Africa, as well as photography, graphic art and textiles. Free general admission first Tuesday of each month. 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

ROBERT KOCH GALLERY This gallery offers a wide range of exemplary photography that spans from the 19th century to the present, exhibiting works by artists such as Isaac Abrams, Alex Webb and Debra Bloomfield. 49 Geary St., Fifth Floor, 415.421.0122, kochgallery.com

ZK GALLERY This contemporary and modern art gallery exhibits internationally renowned and emerging artists, as well as traditional and hybrid media, printmaking, sculpture and photography. 213 Jefferson St., 415.632.1036, zkgallery.com

LEGION OF HONOR This grand art museum is a threequarter-scale adaptation of the 18th-century Palais de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris.

The museum was built to commemorate soldiers who died in World War I. Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave., 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.famsf.org

SAN FRANCISCO ART EXCHANGE San Francisco Art Exchange is a worldwide leader in art and photographs

MUSEUMS ASIAN ART MUSEUM Home to over 18,000 exquisite art objects spanning 6,000 years of

MISSION CULTURAL CENTER FOR LATINO ARTS The MCCLA promotes

MUSEUM OF ICE CREAM Step inside an immersive experience, painted neon pink and populated with cookie carousels and a swimming pool filled with rainbow sprinkles.

1 Grant Ave., 855.258.0719, museumoficecream.com SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART SFMOMA is the largest modern art space in the nation. See painting, sculpture, photography, architecture and design, and media arts. Most of the museum’s ground floor is free. 151 3rd St., 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS This contemporary art center highlights multicultural issues through artwork, performing arts, film and civic engagement. 701 Mission St., general: 415.978.2700, tickets: 415.978.2787, ybca.org

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DINING NOPA > American.

Named for its North-of-thePanhandle location, NOPA serves organic, locally sourced, woodfired rustic cuisine with a weekly changing menu. 560 Divisadero St., 415.864.8643, nopasf.com RICH TABLE > American.

This one-Michelin star hot spot serves unfussy, market-driven food such as aged beef ravioli with pickled ginger, all in a lively atmosphere. 199 Gough St., 415.355.9085, richtablesf.com SOUVLA > Greek.

This Greek sandwich shop is inspired by the souvlaki joints found throughout Greece.

The sandwiches are made with spit-roasted meats on warm pita bread with spiced yogurt sauces. 517 Hayes St., 415.400.5458; 531 Divisadero St., 415.400.5458; 758 Valencia St., 415.400.5458; 2272 Chestnut St., souvla.com

Palette on Folsom Street has opened a permanent outdoor space on the property, Terrace at Palette. The 60-foot-long addition to the restaurant features a steel-wall enclosure, redwood-planked floors and, when needed, an adaptable roof.

The “Cal-Coastal” menu was designed by chef-owner Peter J. Hemsley, and the cocktails are by Trevin Hutchins, most recently of One65. 816 Folsom St., 415.865.0529, palette-sf.com CASTRO/ UPPER MARKET CANELA BISTRO AND WINE BAR > Spanish/Tapas.

Serving traditional tapas and modern Spanish dishes, sourcing ingredients from sustainable California markets and farms. 2272 Market St., 415.552.3000, canelasf.com FRANCES > California.

Serving a daily changing menu of modern California cuisine, Frances offers delights such as steak with sweet corn polenta, roasted Bartlett pear with celery root confit and gnocchi with maitake mushrooms. 3870 17th St., 415.621.3870, frances-sf.com

CHINATOWN R&G LOUNGE > Chinese.

This spot has a Hong Kong-style

menu that includes tank-fresh seafood. No Reservations host Anthony Bourdain visited the restaurant and raved about the salt and pepper crab.

631 Kearny St., 415.982.7877, rnglounge.com Z&Y RESTAURANT > Chinese.

Chinatown landmark with authentic Schezuan cuisine from fish and pork-belly hot pots to hand-pulled noodles. Guests have included presidents of the United States and China.

655 Jackson St., 415.981.8988, zandyrestaurant.com

CIVIC CENTER/ HAYES VALLEY ABSINTHE BRASSERIE & BAR > French.

The perfect place to take a break from shopping or enjoy a dinner

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date. The menu boasts an oyster bar, classic French specialties and heavenly desserts. 398 Hayes St., 415.551.1590, absinthe.com ESPETUS CHURRASCARIA > Steaks.

This Brazilian-style steakhouse offers all-you-can-eat skewers (“espetus,” in Portuguese) of slow-roasted beef, lamb, pork, chicken and shrimp for a fixed price. 1686 Market St., 415.552.8792; 710 S. B St., San Mateo, 650.342.8700., espetus.com MONSIEUR BENJAMIN > French.

Inspired by Parisian bistros, this restaurant offers a seasonal, modern take on traditional dishes, from Gulf flounder stuffed with spinach to duck leg confit.

451 Gough St., 415.403.2233, monsieurbenjamin.com

DOGPATCH GILBERTH’S LATIN FUSION > Latin American.

Pan-Latin cuisine is served in an industrial-chic setting at this family-owned restaurant.

The frequently changing menu features fresh, local ingredients.

2427 3rd St., 415.913.7163, gilberths.com SERPENTINE > New American.

This industrial-chic restaurant and cocktail bar serves upscale American and Southerninfluenced dishes, such as cornmeal-crusted halibut and country grits. 2495 3rd St., 415.252.2000, serpentinesf.com

FINANCIAL DISTRICT AKIKOS RESTAURANT > Sushi.

This sushi restaurant is com-mitted to local, organic and sustainable products, and the menu features traditional-contemporary sushi and eclectic seafood items.

431 Bush St., 415.397.3218, akikosrestaurant.com

COURTESY PALETTE

Palette goes al fresco in SOMA

ZUNI CAFE > Mediterranean.

This San Francisco institution won a James Beard Award in 2003 for Outstanding Restaurant and is famous for its cookedto-order roast chicken for two (allow an hour), a true standout on the menu. 1658 Market St., 415.552.2522., zunicafe.com

DINING ONE MARKET RESTAURANT INTRODUCES BOB’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE > Steaks.

Prime cuts of filet mignon, New York strip steaks and a 22ounce bone-in rib-eye dominate a menu rounded out by rack of lamb, roast duck and seafood in this Omni Hotel spot. 500 California St., 415.273.3085, bobs-steakandchop.com HARBORVIEW RESTAURANT & BAR > Chinese.

Enjoy authentic Cantonese Chinese cuisine, traditional dim sum and cocktails alongside panoramic bay views. Menu items include steamed Shanghai dumplings and scallops.

4 Embarcadero Center, 415.399.1200, harborviewsf.com

A DELICIOUS MENU OF JEWISH COMFORT FOOD — IN ADDITION TO OUR POPULAR PRIME RIB, FRIED CHICKEN, KING SALMON AND WEEKLY DINNER SPECIALS.

See menu and order at onemarket.com “Top Ten American restaurants in the U.S.”

1 MARKET STREET SAN FRANCISCO 415.777.5577 ONEMARKET.COM

– Gayot Guide

The

KUSAKABE > Japanese.

For the ultimate in sushi, look no further than Kusakabe, a high-end restaurant that offers a prix fixe menu chosen by the chef. 584 Washington St., 415.757.0155, kusakabe-sf.com ONE MARKET > American.

This popular restaurant on the Embarcadero waterfront offers contemporary presentations of American classics from chef Mark Dommen, showcasing farm-fresh ingredients, heritage meats, artisanal cheeses and stellar wine. 1 Market St., 415.777.5577, onemarket.com PABU > Japanese & Sushi.

Michael Mina and Ken Tominaga’s modern Japanese izakaya offers sushi and smallplate menus complemented by more than 100 sake selections. 101 California St., 415.668.7228, michaelmina.net

San Francisco Steakhouse

PROSPECT > California.

This polished spot serves California cuisine in an elegant yet comfortable environment.

The menu changes daily with options like duck liver mousse, roasted sea scallops with wilted celery root, and tuna crudo with stone fruit. 300 Spear St., 415.247.7770, prospectsf.com

Award winning steaks, superb wines, and live jazz nightly for over 35 years!

415.673.1888 • 2100 VAN NESS AVE. HARRISRESTAURANT.COM

WAYFARE TAVERN > American.

Built with bricks salvaged from the city after the 1906 quake, chef Tyler Florence’s restaurant channels the Barbary Coast era with American fare. 558 Sacramento St., 415.772.9060, wayfaretavern.com YANK SING > Chinese.

Upscale dim sum parlor with no menus. Just point at what looks

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DINING

JAPANTOWN/ LOWER FILLMORE THE PROGRESS > New American.

A 2015 James Beard Award winner and one-Michelin star spot, this is the second restaurant from the team behind State Bird Provisions. 1525 Fillmore St., 415.673.1294, theprogress-sf.com

Chilled oysters at Bistro Boudin

good as the servers roll the carts by, and discover the art of eating Shanghai dumplings. 101 Spear St., 415.781.1111; 49 Stevenson Place, 415.541.4949, yanksing.com

FISHERMAN’S WHARF/ WATERFRONT ALIOTO’S > Seafood.

One of San Francisco’s oldest restaurants, this Fisherman’s Wharf landmark has magnificent views of the San Francisco Bay and a reputation for great cioppino and fresh seafood. 8 Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.673.0183, aliotos.com BISTRO BOUDIN > American.

Seasonal cuisine and sourdough dominate the menu at the famed bread-maker’s flagship facility, which also houses a sourdough bread museum, an exhibition bakery, and a café and gourmet market. 160 Jefferson St., 415.351.5561, bistroboudin.com THE BUENA VISTA CAFE > American.

This wharf institution by the Hyde Street cable car turnaround is famous for first introducing Irish coffee to the U.S. in 1952.

The menu features all-day breakfast and comfort food.

2765 Hyde St., 415.474.5044, thebuenavista.com THE GROTTO > Seafood.

This bistro, oyster bar and lounge has been feeding fishermen and visitors since 1935. It was the first

sit-down restaurant to open in Fisherman’s Wharf. 2847 Taylor St., 415.673.7025, thegrottosf.com HOG ISLAND OYSTER COMPANY > Seafood.

This attractive waterfront spot in the Ferry Building is known for its happy hours and unconventional, exceptional clam chowder with whole manila clams and a light, flavorful broth.

1 Ferry Building, 415.391.7117, hogislandoysters.com THE SLANTED DOOR > Vietnamese.

With a waterfront location in the Ferry Building, this restaurant from star chef Charles Phan serves modern interpretations of Vietnamese cuisine that remain faithful to the original. It’s famous for its shaking beef dish.

1 Ferry Building, 415.861.8032, slanteddoor.com

JACKSON SQUARE COTOGNA > Italian.

This casual cousin to the threeMichelin star Quince restaurant serves a seasonal menu of spit-roasted meats and game birds, wood-oven pizzas, housemade pastas and local seafood. 490 Pacific Ave., 415.775.8508, cotognasf.com QUINCE > Contemporary.

Elegant without being stuffy, this intimate three-Michelin star restaurant with a superb wine list serves sophisticated Californian contemporary cuisine via a

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STATE BIRD PROVISIONS > American.

It’s worth it to get a reservation at the 2013 James Beard Award winner for Best New Restaurant. This Michelinstarred restaurant does inventive, adventurous American cuisine. 1529 Fillmore St., 415.795.1272, statebirdsf.com

MARINA/COW HOLLOW A16 > Italian.

This neighborhood hot spot combines the cuisine of Campania with the pizzas of Naples and pours small-production wines from California and Southern Italy. 2355 Chestnut St., 415.771.2216; 5356 College Ave., Oakland, 510.768.8003, a16sf.com ATELIER CRENN > French.

This three-Michelin star restaurant presents gardencentric dishes. Giving center stage to the food, diners enjoy a multicourse tasting menu.

3127 Fillmore St., 415.440.0460, ateliercrenn.com INDIE SUPERETTE > California.

Michael Mina’s new cafe and grab-and-go market that is focused on plant-based fare from veggie burgers to vegan pastries. 3060 Fillmore St., 628.222.6642, michaelmina.net

MISSION DISTRICT

pioneered San Francisco’s farm-to-table movement. It’s received rave reviews since its opening in 1998. 3621 18th St., 415.552.4055, delfinasf.com FLOUR + WATER > Italian.

This incredibly popular, welcoming spot serves exceptional Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizzas and housemade pastas made with seasonal ingredients.

2401 Harrison St., 415.826.7000, flourandwater.com FOREIGN CINEMA > California.

A mainstay in the Mission District since 1999, Foreign Cinema has a bohemian-chic space that suits the excellent California-Mediterranean cuisine. A heated, covered patio screens classic, foreign and independent films. 2534 Mission St., 415.648.7600, foreigncinema.com ICHI SUSHI > Sushi.

Celebrated as one of San Francisco’s top sushi destinations, Ichi Sushi is the place to go for traditional nigiri, sashimi and an extensive sake list. 3369 Mission St., 415.525.4750, ichisushi.com LOLINDA > Steaks.

The team behind Beretta and Starbelly has created a new kind of steakhouse, one that marries the flavors of Argentina with the culinary sensibility of California.

The meats are cooked over a wood-fired asador (grill).

2518 Mission St., 415.550.6970, lolindasf.com TARTINE BAKERY & CAFE > Dessert/Coffee.

This popular artisan bakery serves fresh-from-the-oven pastries all day, as well as pies, cakes, artisan bread and coffee.

Gourmet sandwiches and classic pastries keep folks lining up.

600 Guerrero St., 415.487.2600, tartinebakery.com

NOB HILL

CRAFTSMAN & WOLVES > Bakery.

This modern patisserie features a rotating menu of breakfast pastries, desserts, lunch and other savory fare. 746 Valencia St., 415.913.7713; 1598 Yosemite Ave., 415.423.3337, craftsman-wolves.com

BERBER > North African.

As a supper club, Berber features a prix fixe menu of dishes alongside a cirque show. As a restaurant and bar, Berber offers an unfussy dining room with Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine and craft cocktails.

1516 Broadway, 415.800.7767, berbersf.com

DELFINA > Italian.

This bustling neighborhood trattoria is a local favorite that

SWAN OYSTER DEPOT > Seafood.

This seafood market and 18-stool

COURTESY BISTRO BOUDIN

nightly changing tasting menu.

470 Pacific Ave., 415.775.8500, quincerestaurant.com

DINING oyster bar almost always has a (very long) wait, but the food and the service are always well worth waiting for. Cash only.

1517 Polk St., 415.673.1101, swanoysterdepot.us TOMMY’S JOYNT > American.

One of the first hofbraus in San Francisco is still serving up generous portions of freshly cut meat and other dishes cafeteria-style. 1101 Geary Blvd., 415.775.4216, tommysjoynt.com

NOE VALLEY FIREFLY > American.

Homey spot where the food is comfortable and creative, and vegetarians will find at least two courses on menu. 4288 24th St., 415.821.7652, fireflysf.com

NORTH BEACH CAFE ZOETROPE > Italian.

Owned by legendary film director and winemaker Francis Ford Coppola, this neighborhood Italian restaurant is named after his famous production company and features an authentic Italian menu.

916 Kearny St., 415.291.1700, cafezoetrope.com

WWW.CAFÉZOETROPE.COM | (415) 291-1700

DON PISTO’S > Mexican.

A fresh take on traditional Mexican street food, this spot serves up tacos and tamales inspired by the towns from Baja California all the way down to the Yucatan peninsula. 510 Union St., 415.395.0939, donpistos.com FIOR D’ITALIA > Italian.

Dubbed America’s oldest Italian restaurant (opened in 1886), Fior d’Italia has been serving authentic Northern Italian cuisine for over 130 years. 2237 Mason St., 415.986.1886, fior.com NORTH BEACH RESTAURANT > Italian.

This classic restaurant serves generous portions of hearty Tuscan cuisine from its extensive menu alongside a huge selection of wines.

1512 Stockton St., 415.392.1700, northbeachrestaurant.com CUPERTINO • SAN FRANCISCO • PASADENA ONE65 • THE SEA • ALEXANDER PATISSSERIE • ALX

ALEXANDERSSTEAKHOUSE.COM

PARK TAVERN > American.

A fashionable American bistro and bar boasts a menu of shareable plates and seafood such as steak frites made with a 12-ounce rib-eye and a pan-seared trout in cherry beurre blanc. 1652 Stockton St., 415.989.7300, parktavernsf.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

T AST E O F SA N F R A N C I S C O HISTORIC JOHN’S GRILL TOP PICK

CLASSIC SF RESTAURANT

A San Francisco tradition since 1908 and a favorite with locals and national celebrities (Olympia Dukakis, Renée Zellweger and Drew Brees), who enjoy great steaks, fresh seafood and excellent service at honest prices. The casual atmosphere and pictures of old San Francisco is a setting in the novel The Maltese Falcon and is conveniently located to downtown hotels and theaters. This landmark restaurant was featured in Gourmet and named Top 10 by Esquire. Private banquet rooms available. L, D (daily) Union Square 63 Ellis St. (Powell & Stockton), San Francisco, 415.986.0069 • johnsgrill.com

NEW DELHI RESTAURANT Chef Ranjan has been preparing legendary flavors for guests from around the world at the same location for over 30 years. San Francisco’s oldest Indian restaurant has been serving classic and unique Indian dishes using fresh, local ingredients. Voted the “Best Indian Restaurant” and decorated like a Maharajah’s banquet room, New Delhi has been a favorite for locals and visitors. Within walking distance of downtown hotels, it’s ideal for a unique and delicious dining experience. Bar open late. D (nightly) 160 Ellis St., San Francisco 415.397.8470 • newdelhirestaurant.com

SOTTO MARE Tony Bennett says that Sotto Mare is one of his favorite places to dine in San Francisco. Located in the heart of North Beach, Sotto Mare provides an authentic Italian North Beach experience serving the freshest fish and shellfish in town— and the best cioppino in San Francisco. Oysters, Boston-style clam chowder, crab cioppino, Louis salads, seafood pastas, seafood risotto and a selection of fresh fish daily. Private parties are available in our restaurant and banquet room.

Fresh fish also sold retail. L, D (M-Sa) 552 Green St., San Francisco 415.398.3181 • sottomaresf.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

T AST E O F S A N F R A N C I S C O BUENA VISTA First established on Fisherman’s Wharf in 1886 and as rich in history as the city itself, the Buena Vista has served warming libations and hearty meals to patrons from near and far for over 130 years. In more recent history, the “BV” gained new renown in 1952 with the introduction of its world-famous Irish Coffee, which—in addition to its bountiful meals, full bar and celebrated views—continues to attract locals and visitors alike. Open late. B, L, D (daily)

Fisherman’s Wharf, 2765 Hyde St., San Francisco 415.474.5044 • thebuenavista.com

Z & Y RESTAURANT Chinatown’s Z & Y Restaurant is San Francisco’s first Sichuan restaurant. Its authentic cuisine and ambiance have earned the venue the Michelin Guide’s 2020 Bib Gourmand rating as well as high rankings from Zagat Guide. Chef Han has served Chinese presidents and was executive chef at the city’s Chinese consulate. He recommends the fish poached in spicy sauce, tea-smoked duck, saltand-pepper crab, tan tan noodles and the sweet and spicy Couple’s Delight. Vegetarian options also available. L, D (daily), closed Tuesdays.

655 Jackson St., San Francisco 415.981.8988 • zandyrestaurant.com

CHILI HOUSE SF Chili House SF has been serving fresh Chinese cuisine to locals and visitors; it has earned the reputation of being among the best Chinese restaurants in San Francisco. Chef Han brings an authentic approach to specialties such as Peking duck, dim sum and seafood. Other favorites include spicy and crispy garlic crab, fresh fish with flaming chili oil, kung pao chicken, Beijing potstickers and soup dumplings. L, D (daily), closed Tuesdays.

726 Clement St., San Francisco 415.387.2658 • chilihousesf.com

DINING

SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA)/CHINA BASIN ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE > Steaks.

This fine interpretation of the classic American steakhouse reveals hints of Japanese influence throughout the menu with dry-aged steaks and an awardwinning 400-bottle collection.

448 Brannan St., 415.495.1111; 19379 Stevens Creek Blvd., Cupertino, 408.446.2222, alexanderssteakhouse.com

Prawn salad at E&O Kitchen and Bar

SOTTO MARE OYSTERIA & SEAFOOD RESTAURANT > Seafood.

Sotto Mare is an authentic Italian North Beach experience. The seafood restaurant serves oysters and clams, clam chowder and more and is well known for its crab cioppino. 552 Green St., 415.398.3181, sottomaresf.com TONY’S PIZZA NAPOLETANA > Italian.

Dubbed the best pizzeria in America by Forbes magazine, Tony Gemignani’s pizzas are authentic, with ingredients imported from Naples, Italy.

1570 Stockton St., 415.835.9888, tonyspizzanapoletana.com

PACIFIC HEIGHTS/ UPPER FILLMORE LA MÉDTIERANÉE > Armenian.

This restaurant is consistently voted “Best Middle Eastern” and “Best Mediterranean” in the San Francisco Bay Area. Now in its 40th year, the familyowned and -operated Middle Eastern and Mediterranean restaurant is inspired by Armenian and Lebanese family recipes.

2210 Fillmore St., 415.921.2956, cafelamedfillmore.com

RICHMOND/ OCEAN BEACH CHILI HOUSE > Chinese.

Chili House SF has been serving fresh Chinese cuisine to locals

and visitors; it has earned the reputation of being among the best Chinese restaurants in San Francisco. Chef Han brings an authentic approach to specialties such as Peking duck, dim sum and seafood. Closed Tuesdays.

726 Clement St., 415.387.2658, chilihousesf.com CLIFF HOUSE > American.

This historic site is home to two restaurants and spectacular views. Sutro’s at Cliff House offers an upscale setting and a seasonal California coastal menu, while the Bistro at Cliff House offers a more casual experience. 1090 Point Lobos Ave., 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com OUTERLANDS > New American.

This Outer Sunset restaurant is committed to local and sustainable ingredients. The menu features simple yet elevated takes on classics such as a bacon and cheese sandwich and Early Girl tomato soup. 4001 Judah St., 415.661.6140, outerlandssf.com

SAUSALITO BARREL HOUSE TAVERN > New American.

This casual eatery serves a local, seasonal menu of rustic comfort food and overlooks the bay with breathtaking views of the bay. 660 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com

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BENU > American.

This three-Michelin star restaurant distills fine dining down to the elements: exquisite ingredients, unique flavors, precise technique and attentive service. 22 Hawthorne St., 415.685.4860, benusf.com BLUESTEM BRASSERIE > California.

This upscale urban restaurant is a modern interpretation of the classic American brasserie.

Dishes include grass-fed beef burgers and steaks, and vegan pupusas. 1 Yerba Buena Lane, 415.547.1111, bluestembrasserie.com DUMPLING TIME > Chinese/Japanese.

This restaurant serves handmade dumplings from Japanese and Chinese traditions. The signature are Japanese-style gyoza.

11 Division St., 415.525.4797, dumplingtimesf.com MARLOWE > American.

This neighborhood bistro is a sister restaurant to Park Tavern. The market-driven menu is known for upscale comfort foods like burgers, crispy Brussels sprout chips and deviled eggs. 500 Brannan St., 415.777.1413, marlowesf.com MATHILDE FRENCH BISTRO > French.

Mathilde is a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional French fare like slow-cooked duck confit in duck fat and coq au vin. Surrounded by vines and greenery, the inviting back patio evokes the French countryside. 315 5th St., 415.546.6128, mathildesf.com

UNION SQUARE THE CAVALIER > British Pub Food.

This London-inspired brasserie, a 2014 James Beard Award semifinalist, was created by the duo behind the critically acclaimed restaurants Marlowe and Park Tavern. 360 Jessie St., 415.321.6000, thecavaliersf.com E&O KITCHEN AND BAR > Asian.

Just steps away from Union Square, E&O has a festive vibe and serves shareable bites and creative cocktails featuring bold and dynamic flavors.

314 Sutter St., 415.693.0303, eosanfrancisco.com EMPORIO RULLI BANCARELLA > Café.

Bancarella features an array of pastries in flavors ranging from hazelnut to Domori dark chocolate. Enjoy one alongside Gary Rulli’s special Bancarella espresso blend. 350 Powell St., 415.433.1121, rulli.com JOHN’S GRILL > American.

This casual steakhouse is one of the city’s oldest restaurants and served as a setting for the classic book and movie The Maltese Falcon. 63 Ellis St., 415.986.0069, johnsgrill.com LE COLONIAL > French.

Enter a space resembling the tropical elegance of 1920s Vietnam. The menu offers dishes such as whole fried red snapper, Vietnamese beef stew and white prawns with garlic noodles.

20 Cosmo Place, 415.931.3600, lecolonialsf.com NEW DELHI RESTAURANT > Indian.

Authentic Northern Indian food, with recipes culled from royal menus dating back 400 years. Chef/owner Ranjan Dey creates daily specials with his six gourmet spice blends.

160 Ellis St., 415.397.8470, newdelhirestaurant.com

VAN NESS CORRIDOR HARRIS’ STEAKHOUSE > Steaks.

This iconic restaurant represents classic steakhouse dining, but chef Michael Buhagiar adds a California sensibility with a subtle flair for the unexpected, seen, for example, in the vanilla rose crème brûlée. 2100 Van Ness Ave., 415.673.1888, harrisrestaurant.com

COURTESY E&O KITCHEN AND BAR

COPITA TEQUILERIA Y COMIDA > Mexican.

This neighborhood restaurant and tequila bar offers elevated versions of traditional Mexican cuisine and inventive cocktails. 739 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.331.7400, copitarestaurant.com

ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE 501 Stanyan St., 415.831.2700, goldengatepark.com GRACE CATHEDRAL Cathedral, inspired by the architecture of Paris’ Notre Dame, serves as a diverse gathering place for worship, celebration and activities. 1100 California St., 415.749.6300, gracecathedral.org JAPANESE TEA GARDEN Stroll among monuments, bridges, native Japanese plants and koi ponds in the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States.

75 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, japaneseteagardensf.com

Exploring ‘Red Power’ on the Rock

Alcatraz Cruises is offering tours that focus on historical outdoor spaces and scenic views on the island, as well as access to “Red Power On Alcatraz: Perspective 50 Years Later,” a compelling exhibition about the Native American occupation of the island in 1969. Tickets include the ferry service, an app-based audio tour with stories from the park’s history, and access to the recreation yard, Eagle Plaza and the Rose Garden, as well as close-up views of the major buildings. alcatrazcruises.com

ATTRACTIONS & SIGHTS AQUARIUM OF THE BAY Visit San Francisco’s only waterfront aquarium to get up close and personal with the bay’s amazing marine life. Pier 39, 415.623.5300, aquariumofthebay.org

NATALIA PEREZ/ALCATRAZ CRUISES

COIT TOWER Lillie Hitchcock Coit bequeathed funds for the “beautification of the city.” Her heirs used the money to build Coit Tower. 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd., 415.249.0995, sfrecpark.org CONSERVATORY OF FLOWERS This botanical wonderland in Golden Gate Park is the oldest wood and glass conservatory in North America. The inside houses nearly 2,000 plant species. 100 John F. Kennedy Drive, 415.831.2090, conservatoryofflowers.org

CRISSY FIELD Waterfront recreation area, beach and wetlands is popular among locals and visitors. Great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. Located along Mason Street in the Presidio. Warming Hut Park Store & Cafe: 983 Marine Drive, 415.561.3042, parksconservancy.org FISHERMAN’S WHARF Find crab stands along the sidewalks, seafood restaurants and shops in the historic heart of the city’s fishing industry.

Pier 43, 415.674.7503, fishermanswharf.org FORT MASON Once the embarkation point for soldiers going to war in the Pacific, the 13-acre campus now is home to theaters, galleries and museums. 2 Marina Blvd., 415.345.7500, fortmason.org

GHIRARDELLI SQUARE Former chocolate factory site is home to boutiques, restaurants and the Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop. 900 North Point St., 415.775.5500, ghirardellisq.com GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE One of the most iconic landmarks in the world, the Golden Gate Bridge defines the city. A stroll down the east side offers views of the city and the bay. Lincoln Boulevard and Armistead Road in the Presidio, welcome center: 415.426.5220, goldengatebridge.org GOLDEN GATE PARK This park is home to the de Young Museum, California Academy of Sciences and the Conservatory of Flowers, with soccer fields, a golf course, tennis courts and more. Pick up a park map at McLaren Lodge,

LANDS END Known for its shipwrecks and landslides, this is San Francisco’s wildest and rockiest coast. The crown jewel is the scenic Coastal Trail, with views of the Pacific coast and Golden Gate Bridge. Visitor Center: 680 Point Lobos Ave., 415.426.5240, parksconservancy.org LOMBARD STREET This famed landmark has eight hairpin switchbacks on a downward pitch, making it the “crookedest street in the world.”

Lombard and Hyde streets MADAME TUSSAUDS SAN FRANCISCO This famous chain of wax museums is filled with celebrities. You can now get up close and personal with the figures—no more ropes­— and snap a pic with your favorite celebrity. 145 Jefferson St., 415.757.2707, madametussauds.com MISSION DOLORES Completed in 1791, Mission Dolores is the oldest intact building in San Francisco and was the city’s first church.

3321 16th St., 415.621.8203, missiondolores.org PAINTED LADIES This row of seven Victorian homes (made famous by the opening credits of Full House) lines the eastern side of Alamo Square park and is often called “Postcard Row.” 710-720 Steiner St. PALACE OF FINE ARTS This domed rotunda is all that remains from the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition.

Today this is a popular spot to stroll, take photos or attend events at the theater.

3301 Lyon St., 415.563.6504, palaceoffinearts.org

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ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE

Seaplane Adventures

PIER 39 Popular shopping, dining and enter-tainment destination near Fisherman’s Wharf features more than 50 shops and 14 restaurants with bay views. Beach Street and the Embarcadero, 415.981.7437, pier39.com THE PRESIDIO Former Army base is now a national park with forests, trails, historic structures, restaurants and the Walt Disney Family Museum.

Visitor center at 210 Lincoln Blvd., 415.561.4323, presidio.gov SAN FRANCISCO BOTANICAL GARDEN This internationally recognized urban oasis includes 55 acres of gardens displaying almost 9,000 different kinds of plants, plus a library and a bookstore.

1119 9th Ave., 415.661.1316, sfbotanicalgarden.org THE SAN FRANCISCO ZOO Home to more than 2,000 exotic, endangered and rescued animals, among peaceful gardens full of native and foreign plants. Sloat Boulevard at Great Highway, 415.753.7080, sfzoo.org THE WOMEN’S BUILDING MURAL Spectacular mural by seven women artists. conveys the healing power of women’s wisdom and the contributions of women.

3543 18th St., 415.431.1180, womensbuilding.org YERBA BUENA GARDENS The Yerba Buena Gardens offer nine different types of gardens, a center for the arts, a carousel, an MLK memorial, an iceskating rink and bowling center, plus child care facilities.

750 Howard St., 415.820.3550, yerbabuenagardens.com

BAY AREA ATTRACTIONS ANGEL ISLAND This small island just off the Tiburon Peninsula offers hiking and biking trails, campsites, picnic facilities and spectacular views of the city. Purchase tickets from Blue and Gold Fleet or the Tiburon Ferry, 415.435.3972, angelisland.org BAY AREA DISCOVERY MUSEUM Interactive learning center lets children play outdoors, design and create high-tech projects and oversized structures. 557 McReynolds Road, Sausalito, 415.339.3900, bayareadiscoverymuseum.org JACK LONDON SQUARE Dining, shoping and entertainment plaza named author Jack London, who spent much of his boyhood on Oakland’s waterfront. Water Street and Broadway, Oakland, 510.645.9292, jacklondonsquare.com MOUNT TAMALPAIS STATE PARK Marin County’s highest peak (2,500 feet) is ideal for hiking, cycling and offers breathtaking views. Panoramic Highway, 415.388.2070, parks.ca.gov MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT Famous grove of 400- to 800-year-old virgin redwoods that grow more than 250 feet tall. 1 Muir Woods Road, Mill Valley, 415.561.2850; parking/shuttle; reservations: 800.410.2419, nps.gov/muwo OAKLAND ZOO The Oakland Zoo is home to more than 750 native and exotic animals and is recognized for its outstanding animal care. 9777 Golf Links Road, Oakland, 510.632.9525, oaklandzoo.org

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WINCHESTER MYSTERY HOUSE The Winchester Rifle heiress spent 38 years directing construction of the 160-room home, which is full of bizarre and unorthodox features, including doors that open to nowhere. 525 S. Winchester Blvd., San Jose, 408.247.2000, winchestermysteryhouse.com

MUSEUMS BEAT MUSEUM Dedicated to the poetry and social movement that made San Francisco part of literary history, this museum showcases artifacts from Jack Kerouac, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and others. 540 Broadway, 800.537.6822, front desk: 415.399.9626, kerouac.com CABLE CAR MUSEUM Museum in the historic Washington-Mason cable car depot and powerhouse that houses a historic cable cars, photographs and mechanical displays.

1201 Mason St., 415.474.1887, cablecarmuseum.org CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF SCIENCES The academy is an international center for scientific education and research and the only museum in the world to house an aquarium, planetarium and natural history museum under one (living) roof. 55 Music Concourse Drive, 415.379.8000, calacademy.org CHILDREN’S CREATIVITY MUSEUM This hands-on, multimedia arts and technology experience for kids promotes 21st-century skills. 221 4th St., 415.820.3320, creativity.org EXPLORATORIUM This educational center offers an array of interactive scientific exhibits and displays. Find virtual experiences and learning resources online. Pier 15, 415.528.4444, exploratorium.edu GLBT HISTORY MUSEUM Celebrating the San Francisco gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community

through dynamic exhibitions and programming. 4127 18th St., 415.621.1107, glbthistory.org MUSÉE MÉCANIQUE Come see one of the world’s largest privately owned collections of coin-operated mechanical music boxes and antique arcade games in working condition.

Free admission daily. Pier 45 at Taylor Street on Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.346.2000, museemecaniquesf.com WALT DISNEY FAMILY MUSEUM This museum tells the story of the man behind the Disney magic. The tale of Walt Disney comes to life in galleries with voice clips, home videos and family photographs. 104 Montgomery St. in the Presidio, 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

BAY CRUISES ALCATRAZ CRUISES Official concessioner for the National Park Service. See Alcatraz, one of San Francisco’s most popular attractions, or take a combo tour of Alcatraz and Angel Island. Ticket Booth: Pier 33, 415.981.7625, alcatrazcruises.com BLUE AND GOLD FLEET Blue and Gold Fleet offers tours of the Bay and Alcatraz. A free audio tour is available on select tours in nine languages. Bring WiFi-enabled devices to access the tour. Pier 41, 415.705.8200, blueandgoldfleet.com RED AND WHITE FLEET Sail under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz aboard the one-hour Golden Gate Bay Cruise. All cruises depart from Pier 43 1/2, Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.673.2900, redandwhite.com SAN FRANCISCO BAY BOAT CRUISES, INC. Explore the San Francisco Bay and taste wines aboard the city’s only floating tasting room. Sip from a large selection of California wines. Pier 39, 415.859.7052, sanfranciscobayboatcruise.com

BIKE RENTALS BAY WHEELS Explore San Francisco with Bay Wheels, a bike share system with docking stations around the Bay Area. Rides start at just $2. Requires the Lyft app. San Francisco and Bay Area, 855.480.2453, lyft.com BLAZING SADDLES Bike on your own or take a tour with

COURTESY SEAPLANE ADVENTURES

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BOTANICAL GARDEN The 34-acre botanical garden at UC Berkeley exhibits over 10,000 types of plants. It features nine regions of plantings from Italy to South Africa, as well as California native plants. 200 Centennial Drive, Berkeley, 510.643.2755, botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu

ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE this biking adventure company, offering locations at Fisherman’s Wharf, the Financial District and Union Square. 415.202.8888, blazingsaddles.com

DISCOUNT TICKETS CITYPASS Save 46% or more at the Bay Area’s major attractions. Choose between a booklet of four preset and one option tickets or a booklet of three tickets to attractions of your choice. citypass.com

PRIVATE TRANSPORTATION

SFO: 780 N. McDonnell Road, 650.933.0124, exoticcars. enterprise.com PARK ‘N FLY The closest parking lot to the San Francisco International Airport, Park ‘N Fly offers valet parking, door-todoor shuttle service, luggage assistance and 24-hour security.

Open 24/7. 160 Produce Ave., South San Francisco; lot contact: 650.877.8438; reservation help: 800.325.4863, pnf.com

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

ACE PARKING Don’t waste time searching for a place to park.

Easily find available parking or a place to charge your electric vehicle with Ace Parking. Check online for locations. 855.223.7275, aceparking.com

BART Bay Area Rapid Transit trains serve the city of San Francisco, as well as San Francisco and Oakland International airports, Berkeley, Oakland and other Bay Area destinations. 510.464.6000, bart.gov

ENTERPRISE EXOTIC CAR COLLECTION From sports cars to sedans and SUVs, this is one of the largest selections of highend vehicles from some of the world’s top luxury manufacturers. 233 Ellis St., 415.542.6023;

CALTRAIN Offering commuter rail service along the San Francisco Peninsula, through the South Bay to San Jose and Gilroy. One-way tickets range from $3.75-$15. 800.660.4287, caltrain.com

CLIPPER CARD Available for use on Muni, BART, CalTrain and more, this is an all-in-one transit card that keeps track of any passes, discount tickets, ride books and cash value loaded onto it. clippercard.com

Chinatown includes a look into architectural history, an herbal pharmacy and a fortune cookie factory. Tours depart from Old St. Mary’s Cathedral at 660 California St., 415.982.8839, allaboutchinatown.com

FERRIES Golden Gate Ferry offers trips to Sausalito, Larkspur and Tiburon. Blue and Gold Fleet offers trips to Sausalito, Tiburon and Angel Island. San Francisco Bay Ferry offers trips from Pier 41, SF Ferry Building, Oracle Park, South San Francisco, Mare Island, Vallejo, Richmond, Oakland, Alameda and Harbor Bay. sfport.com

AVITAL TOURS Visit some of the city’s best eateries and bars and take in the sights as your guide shares engaging historical anecdotes. 415.355.4044, avitaltours.com

MUNI Citywide bus and lightrail service. Muni Passports, good for unlimited rides for one, three or seven days, are available at the Visitor Information Center at the BART station on Powell and Market streets.

415.701.2311, sfmuni.com

TOURS ALL ABOUT CHINATOWN TOURS This cultural, historical and culinary walking tour of

BARBARY COAST TRAIL TOURS The Barbary Coast Trail is a 3.8-mile walk through the heart of historic San Francisco and leads to 20 of the city’s most important historic sites. 415.537.1105, sfhistory.org BIG BUS TOURS Take a tour through San Francisco and learn about its rich history and culture aboard an open-top bus, hopping on and off at any of the 20 stops located throughout the city. 855.854.8687, bigbustours.com CRUISIN’ THE CASTRO TOURS Learn about San Fran-

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EXPLORE cisco and its role in the gay rights movement on this walking tour that explores one of the oldest and largest LGBTQ+ neighborhoods in the country. Tours meet at the Rainbow Flag pole near 400 Castro St., 415.550.8110, cruisinthecastro.com ELECTRIC TOUR COMPANY—SEGWAY TOURS Sign up for fully guided Segway tours of Fisherman’s Wharf and the waterfront, Golden Gate Park, Chinatown and Lombard Street. One-on-one training is provided. Participants must be over 12 years of age and weigh 100-250 pounds. 757 Beach St.; 82 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, 415.474.3130, electrictourcompany.com GRAY LINE OF SAN FRANCISCO Offers more than 30 tours in the Bay Area and beyond, including Muir Woods and Sausalito, Napa and Sonoma, and Yosemite National Park.

Pier 41 Marine Terminal; 478 Post St., 415.353.5310, graylineofsanfrancisco.com JELLY BELLY FACTORY TOURS. Learn the secrets behind the company’s famous candy on guided and self-guided tours of the candy factory. 1 Jelly Belly Lane, Fairfield, 800.953.5592, jellybelly.com LUCKY TUK TUK These modern-day rickshaws go where buses can’t. See the city up close on the 2.5-hour guided Ultimate SF City Tour; taste craft beer on the Craft Beer Crawl. Pick-up locations: Fisherman’s Wharf on Taylor Street in front of Applebee’s, or Union Square on Post Street at side entrance for Westin St. Francis Hotel, 415.851.9190, lucky-tuk-tuk.com SAN FRANCISCO HELICOPTER TOURS These narrated tours offer bird’s-eye views of the city and attractions such as the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and more. Complimentary pickup from Fisherman’s Wharf, Union Square and Nob Hill. All tours depart from the Executive Terminal at SFO, 800.400.2404, 650.635.4500, sfhelicopters.com SAN FRANCISCO MOVIE TOURS Watch clips from dozens of movies shot in San Francisco as you pass the actual film locations on this three-hour

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EXPLORE bus tour. 888.217.1871, sanfranciscomovietours.com SEAPLANE ADVENTURES Get a bird’s-eye view of the city and the bay on this flying tour, which takes passengers soaring above the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco skyline, Alcatraz and the Pacific coastline. 242 Redwood Highway Frontage Road, Mill Valley, 415.332.4843, seaplane.com URBAN HIKER SAN FRANCISCO Get in a workout and take advantage of San Francisco’s great hiking in city limits. Trek hills, stairways and trails and take in incredible views. 415.669.4453, urbanhikersf.com

VISITOR CENTERS MARIN CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU Visitors information on where to stay, who to meet, things to do and places to explore in Marin County. 1 Mitchell Blvd., San Rafael, 415.925.2060, visitmarin.org

The Best Memory of San Francisco Red and White Bay Cruises Family Owned and Operated Since 1892

SAUSALITO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Reach Sausalito over the Golden Gate Bridge or by 30-minute ferry ride.

Special holiday events include the 13th Annual Gingerbread House Tour, and the Lighted Boat Parade and Fireworks.

1913 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.331.7262, sausalito.org S.F. TRAVEL Staff at the San Francisco Visitor Information Center can help with maps, guides, tour and attraction tickets and passes for Muni and the Cable Car. Inside the Moscone South Building, Fourth and Howard streets, sftravel.com/vic TUOLUMNE COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU Tuolumne County is the place for Yosemite explorations, Gold Country discoveries and High Sierra adventures, just two and a half hours east of the San Francisco Bay Area. 193 S. Washington St., Sonora, 209.533.4420, visittuolumne.com

Pier 43 1/2, Fisherman’s Wharf (415) 673-2900 redandwhite.com

VISIT BERKELEY Less than a 30-minute drive from San Francisco, Berkeley is your destination for arts and culture, with more than 100 cultural organizations, and for dining, with more than 350 restaurants citywide.

2030 Addison St., Berkeley, 510.549.7040, visitberkeley.com

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WINE COUNTRY offers cooking classes and a store of kitchen goods. The Restaurant at CIA Copia offers Mediterranean-inspired California cuisine and an extensive wine list. 500 1st St., Napa, 707.967.2500, ciaatcopia.com NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN Passengers sip select Napa Valley wines and indulge in gourmet cuisine as they ride past vineyards on these three-hour lunch and dinner tours aboard Pullman coaches. Reservations recommended. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, 800.427.4124, 707.253.2111, winetrain.com

WINERIES

Sonoma Bordeaux-focused winemaker Aperture Cellars has opened Aperture Estate, the label’s first designated winery and center for tastings and events. The property near Healdsburg includes 32 acres of vines, and the 4,000square-foot hospitality center features an outdoor plaza and glass walls that can be opened up to offer space and natural light. Tastings are by appointment. 12291 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg, 707.200.7891, aperture-cellars.com

DINING BOUCHON BISTRO More relaxed than the French Laundry but stemming from the same culinary tradition, Bouchon is the place to find quality French meals. 6534 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.8037, thomaskeller.com THE FRENCH LAUNDRY Chef Thomas Keller’s staff serves contemporary French cuisine.

Order one of two multiple-course chef’s tasting menus, including a vegetarian option. Reservations are taken up to two months in advance. 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2380, frenchlaundry.com THE GIRL & THE FIG Country French cuisine showcasing fresh regional ingredients and a nice selection of artisanal cheeses make this a singularly pleasurable dining experience at Sonoma Plaza. 110 W. Spain St.,

Sonoma, 707.938.3634, thegirlandthefig.com GOTT’S ROADSIDE Gott’s Roadside serves up worth-waiting -in-line-for American food. The burgers, fries and shakes are the best around, and the gourmet sandwiches, seafood and wine list add a touch of class. 933 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.3486; 644 1st St., Napa, 707.224.6900, gottsroadside.com MODEL BAKERY For more than 90 years, this bakery has remained true to producing fresh and organic artisan treats daily, ranging from signature breads to delicious cinnamon buns. 644 1st St., Napa, 707.259.1128; 1357 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.8192, themodelbakery.com

SHOPPING THE BARLOW A stretch of renovated warehouses is home

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to some of the best local food producers, winemakers, brewers and artisans. 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707.824.5600, thebarlow.net OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET Gourmet mall for the freshest local ingredients and independent eateries offering elevated takes on pizza, burgers and tacos.

610 & 644 1st St., Napa, 707.226.6529, oxbowpublicmarket.com

TOURS & ATTRACTIONS BIN 415 Bin 415 offers excursions hosted by a certified sommelier to wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Bin 415 also offers tours throughout San Francisco, Sausalito, Muir Woods and the Pacific Coast Highway. 415.851.5711, bin415.com CIA AT COPIA The Culinary Institute of America at Copia

BEAULIEU VINEYARD This over-100-year-old winery is the production site for the flagship cabernet sauvignon.

A French winemaker founded Beaulieu to produce wine that rivals France’s. 1960 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.257.5749, bvwines.com BERINGER VINEYARDS Beringer is known for its cabernet sauvignons and bold, oaky chardonnays. 2000 Main St., St. Helena, 707.257.5771, beringer.com BUENA VISTA WINERY This California Historic Landmark offers world-class cabernets, pinot noirs, chardonnays and zinfandels. Tasting room open seven days a week. 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800.926.1266, buenavistawinery.com CAKEBREAD CELLARS A Napa Green Certified Winery since 2008, this winery is an enthusiastic advocate of pairing food with wine. Cakebread cabernets and chardonnays are well-known and delicious. 8300 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 800.588.0298, cakebread.com CHARLES KRUG Since its opening in 1861, Charles Krug winery has produced awardwinning estate-grown cabernets and renowned sauvignon blanc. Tasting room open daily.

2800 Main St., St. Helena, 800.682.5784, charleskrug.com

COURTESY APERTURE CELLARS

Aperture’s New Site is Picture Perfect

ARTESA WINERY Founded by a Catalan family that has been handcrafting wines since the 16th century, this Carneros winery focuses on producing small, ultrapremium lots.

1345 Henry Road, Napa, 707.224.1668, artesawinery.com

WINE COUNTRY CHATEAU MONTELENA WINERY This Napa winery’s chardonnay earned international recognition at the 1976 Tasting of Paris when it won best white wine in the world, and the winery still produces great wines. Visit the tasting room in the Westin St. Francis hotel. 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, 707.942.5105, montelena.com CLINE CELLARS This smallproduction winery produces Rhone varietals and zinfandel from some of the oldest vines in California. The 1850s farmhouse is surrounded by warm mineral springs and dozens of rose bushes. 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800.546.2070, clinecellars.com CLOS DU BOIS Chardonnay, cabernet and merlot are the most popular selections at this large Alexander Valley winery. A scenic picnic area overlooks rolling vineyards. Tastings and tours are open to the public. 19410 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 800.222.3189, closdubois.com DOMAINE CARNEROS Champagne’s famed Tattinger family founded this winery.

The Le Reve sparkling wine is compared to the top cuvées from Champagne, while the chardonnays and pinot noirs hold their own, too.

1240 Duhig Road, Napa, 800.716.2788, domainecarneros.com DRY CREEK VINEYARD Dry Creek Vineyard was the first winery to reopen in the Dry Creek Valley after Prohibition.

The flagship varietal is fumé blanc, and signature wines include chenin blanc, chardonnay, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon. 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, 707.433.1000, drycreekvineyard.com FAR NIENTE The winery so committed to quality that it only produces one chardonnay and one cabernet sauvignon each year is open to the public. Tours and tastings by appointment.

The gardens are famous for their azaleas. 1350 Acacia Drive, Oakview, 707.944.2861, farniente.com FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA WINERY At this winery in the heart of picturesque Alexander Valley, sip from more than 40 wines produced on-site and eat authentic,

Neapolitan-style pizzas and South American wood-grilled meats. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707.857.1471, francisfordcoppolawinery.com

ence free from the traditional pomp and circumstance of wine tasting. 1178 Galleron Road, St. Helena, 877.283.5934, theprisonerwinecompany.com

J VINEYARDS & WINERY J Vineyards produces a vintage brut, plus a selection of still wines (notably pinot noir) from its Russian River Valley vineyards. 11447 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg, 888.594.6326, jwine.com

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY This winery is a Napa Green Certified Winery and Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing. A full selection of Mondavi wines is available for tasting in the Vineyard room, while the To Kalon room pours reserves and limited-production wines. Reservations strongly recommended. 7801 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville, 888.766.6328, robertmondaviwinery.com

KENZO ESTATE Kenzo Estate is Napa’s only winery with a tasting menu from famed chef Thomas Keller. The winery produces beautiful varieties of cabernet sauvignon. Tours and tastings by appointment.

3200 Monticello Road, Napa, 877.977.7704, kenzoestate.com LOUIS M. MARTINI WINERY For 85 years, Louis M. Martini Winery has embodied a simple, honest premise: The best grapes make the best wines. Today, Michael Eddy carries on this tradition at the historic winery in Napa Valley with his range of cabernet sauvignon wines. 254 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.968.3362, louismartini.com NAPA CELLARS Napa Cellars’ tasting room pours varietals from three sister wineries: Napa Cellars, Folie à Deux and Ménage à Trois. Relax on the winery’s patio, bring a picnic and enjoy one of the award-winning varietals. 7481 St. Helena Hwy. S., Oakville, 800.535.6400, napacellars.com OPUS ONE WINERY A joint venture between Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi led to the creation of Opus One, the highly prized, limited-edition wine blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc, merlot and malbec. 7900 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville, 707.944.9442, opusonewinery.com PLUMPJACK WINERY The winery is best known for its highly rated cabernet sauvignons.

The winery helped pioneer the use of screw caps on wine bottles. 620 Oakville Cross Road, Napa, 707.945.1220, plumpjackwinery.com PRISONER WINE COMPANY The Prisoner Wine Company, known for its thought-provoking label designs, has a tasting lounge that creates an experi-

ROMBAUER VINEYARDS Founder Koerner Rombauer’s great-aunt was Irma Rombauer, author of The Joy of Cooking. This small-production winery produces ultrapremium chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons, zinfandels and merlots. Tastings by appointment. 3522 Silverado Trail N., St. Helena, 866.280.2582, rombauervineyards.com ROSENBLUM CELLARS Zinfandel reigns at this winery, which has produced over 50 zinfandels that have earned 90 points or more from Wine Spectator. 10 Clay St., Oakland, 877.478.9467, rosenblumcellars.com RUTHERFORD RANCH This estate has a 100-year-old olive grove and focuses on sustainability in the production of its wines. 1680 Silverado Trail S., St. Helena, 707.968.3200, rutherfordranch.com SCHUG CARNEROS ESTATE WINERY This winery’s pinot noir is internationally acclaimed.

Tours by appointment. Winery: 602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707.939.9363; tasting room: 452 1st St. E., Sonoma, 707.343.1255, schugwinery.com SCRIBE WINERY Scribe Winery is a photographer’s dream, with sun-dappled hills and wildflowers. The wine, made with wild yeasts, is solid and includes varietals like riesling, chardonnay, syrah and pinot noir.

2100 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707.939.1858, scribewinery.com SEBASTIANI VINEYARDS & WINERY2 One of Northern California’s oldest winemaking families produces a broad range of wine with grapes from seven Sonoma regions. 389 4th

St. E., Sonoma, 707.933.3230, sebastiani.com SEGHESIO FAMILY VINEYARDS This long-standing Italian family winery produces topnotch zinfandel and sangiovese on 400 acres. 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707.433.3579, seghesio.com ST. SUPERY ESTATE VINEYARDS & WINERY Family-owned and sustainably farmed, this winery offers an art gallery, scenic grounds, tours and hands-on interactive wine experiences such as creating your own white wine blend. 8440 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.4507, stsupery.com STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS Best known for its estate cabernet sauvignons, this Napa Valley first-growth estate gained recognition in 1976, when its SLV Cabernet Sauvignon was judged the best red wine in the world at the Paris Tasting. 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.944.2020, stagsleapwinecellars.com STAGS’ LEAP WINERY Not to be confused with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, this winery produces Rhône varietals and cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot. Open by appointment only. 6150 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.257.5790, stagsleap.com STERLING VINEYARDS Take in panoramic views of Napa Valley on an aerial tram ride to this winery. The winery tower houses bells from London’s Church of St. Dunstan’sin-the-East. 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800.726.6136, sterlingvineyards.com SUTTER HOME WINERY Sutter Home Winery is one of the largest independent, familyowned wineries in the country.

Sutter is known for creating white zinfandel, and its portfolio features 20 different varietals. 277 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.963.3104, sutterhome.com WENTE VINEYARDS The country’s oldest continuously operating family-owned winery offers wine tastings, vineyard and garden tours, workshops, an upscale restaurant and a scenic 18-hole golf course. 5565 Tesla Road, Livermore, 925.456.2405, wentevineyards.com

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 45

MAPS / SAN FRANCISCO To: Sausalito & Wine Country

KEY 38

MUNI Bus

38

MUNI Metro

Train Station

Bike Route

Interstate

Information

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE Fort Point

MARINE DR Warming Hut

ORE ILLY AVE

HALLECK ST GIR ARD RD

LIG GETT AVE

RUGER ST

AVIL AS T

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Miraloma Playground

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Glen Canyon Park

CR

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S AVE ST JOSEPH

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ST BRODERICK

WOOD ST WOOD ST COLLINS ST

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ST STANYAN

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AVE PRESIDIO

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Interior Green Belt

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Midtown Te r r a c e Playground

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Laguna Honda Reservoir

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8TH AVE

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10TH AVE

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Sigmund Stern Grove

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12TH AVE

17TH AVE

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W AWONA ST

46 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

NORIEGA ST

IAL AER

S SUTTER

LVD EAKS B TWIN P

ST NTE VICE

Parkside Square

San Francisco Zoo

18TH AVE

23RD AVE

22ND AVE

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Larsen Park

ULLOA ST

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McCoppin Square

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Sutro Tower

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Pine Lake Park

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4TH AVE

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Laguna Puerca

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Grand View Park

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South Sunset Playground

44

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West Sunset Playground

ST JACKSON TON S WASHING

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Koret Children's Quarter Playground

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FUNSTON AVE

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N

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San Francisco's Solar Power Array

VALLEJO ST

Laurel Hill Playground

ST National Aids E DR EA MIDDL Memorial Grove

R KING J R D HER N LUT MARTI

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PARKER AVE

JORDAN AVE

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San Francisco Botancial Garden

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18TH AVE

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Sunset Recreation Center

LAWTON ST

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LA PLAYA ST

47TH AVE

KIRKHAM ST

WAWONA ST

5TH AVE

A 5TH

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Carousel

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N

CUTLER AVE

9TH AVE

MET SON RD

Conservatory of Flowers

F KEN N EDY DR

California Academy of Sciences

Strawbery Hill

STOW LAKE DR

R

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

IRVING ST

VICENTE ST

7TH AVE

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Stow Lake

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12TH AVE

11TH AVE

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10TH AVE

15TH AVE

14TH AVE

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Golden Gate Park Disc Golf Course

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18TH AVE

17TH AVE

20TH AVE

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19TH AVE

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26TH AVE

I

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30TH AVE

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33RD AVE

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38TH AVE

36TH AVE

40TH AVE

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43RD AVE

42ND AVE

45TH AVE

44TH AVE

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48TH AVE

47TH AVE

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Chain Of Lakes

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Laurel Village

St Mary's Medical Center

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44

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49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

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Kaiser PermanenteSan Francisco

GEARY BLVD

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Chestnut Street

Inspiration Point

44

1

Dutch Windmill

BLV

CORNWALL ST

38

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

BALBOA ST

MO R

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

IN L O

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ANZA ST

Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant

LAKE ST

CALIFORNIA ST

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5

Mountain Lake Park

INNER RICHMOND

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TER

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San Francisco National Cemetery

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where traveler San Francisco

T LO OP Presidio Of San Francisco

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STILW ELL

Copyright © 2021

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49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

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To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. For information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one transit cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, clippercard.com.

China Beach

AVE BE HOCK KO BHITC

T MASON S

The Walt Disney Family Museum

PATTEN ST

N BL V

D

Baker Beach

ST

Shopping Area

Crissy Field

COWLE ST

ON APPLET

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1 km

ST

.5

University/College 1 mi

STOREY A

MAR

BLVD MARINA

ST JEFFERSON

CR ISS YF IEL DA V

101

ST

.25

Viewpoint

Museum .5

Golden Gate National Recreation Area

MASO N

Scenic Drive

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

BART Stop .25

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T RD YACH Marina Green Park

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Ferry Line

D

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U.S. Highway

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NG N LINCOL BLVD HOF FM A N ST I ST E AD RD

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CC

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MAPS / SAN FRANCISCO NIMITZ

HILLC R E ST

United States Coast GuardGroup SF

RD

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280

26TH ST

TENNESSEE ST

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

25TH ST

MINNESOTA ST

INDIANA ST

26TH ST

MICHIGAN ST

24TH ST

CESAR CHAVEZ MARIN ST

19 MARIN ST

19

ME ND ELL ST

EV AN FAIR SA FAX VE

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India Basin Shoreline Park

T Silver Terrace Playground

NEW HA LL S T

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3RD ST

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3RD ST

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Potrero Hill Recreation Center

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ST

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3RD ST

18TH ST

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AL HEI GHTS BLVD BERN POWHATTAN AVE

PIER 38

22ND ST

26TH STJames Rolph Jr

CITA PRE

where traveler

PIER 36

20TH ST

POTRERO McKinley HILL Square

Potrero Del Sol Park

E A AV ALT PER ST ALM NTC MO E ST RUTLE D G COSTA ST BERNAL RIPLEY ST

Precita Park

HARRISON ST

J

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BRYANT ST

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HORACE ST

CITA AVE PRE

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H 4T

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T HS 8T

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BALMY ST

LUCKY ST

MISSION ST

LILAC ST

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DRUMM ST

FRONT ST

ST

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ST 24TH ST

S VAN NESS AVE

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PIER 30 49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

T AN

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Jackson Playground

San Francisco General Hospital

25TH ST

30

ST

8T HS T

101

22ND ST

CYPRESS ST

RANDALL ST FAIRMOUNT ST

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ST

MASON ST JONES ST

FOLSOM ST

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S VAN NESS AVE

LAID LE MIGUEL S Y ST T

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Glen Park

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T

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80

ON TS T

South Park

RIT OE CH S ST T

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19

N

BE AL ES FR T EM

SOUTH BEACH

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

21ST ST

POPLAR ST SAN JOSE AVE

DOLORES ST

NS T

Franklin Square

MARIPOSA ST

OSAGE ALY BARTLETT ST ORANGE ALY

FAIR OAKS ST

GUERRERO ST

30TH ST

CHURCH ST

ADDISON ST

SHOTWELL ST

NATOMA ST

AMES ST

CHURCH ST

DAY ST

ST ON Y ST AC S BE DIGB O ON EVERS DDIS ST A ITT FF MO

OR

ST SUSSEX ST

29TH ST

Billy Goat Hill Park Walter Haas Playground

WHITNEY ST

AY

BERKE L

ARB

SANCHEZ ST

CASTRO ST

DIAMOND ST

CT

DR GO NE E Y WL D MI AY

VALLEY ST

15TH ST

15TH ST

ST

ST

DIVISION ST

16TH ST

24th & Mission

NOE ST

BLVD

T OLD M IN E OPA ZW

ark tion er

16th & Mission

80

ALAMEDA ST 15TH ST

N ISO RR HA

ND

Bay Bridge to Treasure Island, East Bay and Oakland International Airport

TS T

Transbay Terminal

ST

30

NT YA BR

HA RR IET

101

KAMILLE CT

28TH ST

pher ound

12TH ST

CESAR CHAVEZ

27TH ST

ST

ST

ST

ST

ST

ST

14TH ST

CESAR CHAVEZ ST

DUNCAN ST

10 TH

HILL ST

26TH ST

RA GS

PLUM ST

MISSION ST

GUERRERO ST

CHATTANOOGA ST

HOMESTEAD ST

25TH ST CLIPPER ST

Douglass Playground

9T H

14

JERSEY ST

Y

ST

ST

CENT RAL FWY

SAN CARLOS ST LEXINGTON ST VALENCIA ST LAPIDGE ST LINDA ST

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

24th Street Noe Valley

24TH ST

LAF AYE TTE

QUANE ST

ELIZABETH ST

RD WA HO

14

ST

7T H

6T H

3R D

MISSION

NELLIE ST VICKSBURG ST BLANCHE ST

ALVARADO ST 23RD ST

11 TH ST

CAPP ST

ALBION ST

GUERRERO ST

HILL ST

ST MA TO NA

Valencia Street

NOE VALLEY

22ND ST

SOMA

Civic Center

19

ST TH 11

OTIS ST

WIESE ST HOFF ST ST WOODWARDJULIA N AVE CALEDONIA ST VALENCIA ST

DOLORES ST

21ST ST

T TS

38

T A S 1ST TIN ST EN EM CL XS T 2

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Children's Creativity Museum

5T H

20TH ST

J

LIBERTY ST 21ST ST

101

ST

CUMBERLAND ST

20TH ST

VARADO ST

OAKWOOD ST

19TH ST

E RK MA

CLARION ALLEY SYCAMORE ST

DORLAND ST

Mission Dolores Park

HANCOCK ST

CASTRO ST

WIN ST

COLLINGWOOD ST

DIAMOND ST

EUREKA ST

DOUGLASS ST

D ST

Old Mission Dolores

CHURCH ST

18TH ST

CASTRO

16TH ST

DORLAND ST

FORD ST

Castro Theatre

GO UG H

F

ELGIN PARK PEARL ST

E RK MA 17TH ST

T YS AD BR

BLVD

F PROSPER ST POND ST NOE ST

T ST FLIN

T TS

SHARON ST

J

15TH ST

RAMONA AVE

HENRY ST

16TH ST

J

CLINTON PARK BROSNAN ST

LANDERS ST

SANCHEZ ST

14TH ST

BELCHER ST

DUBOCE AVE

BEAVER ST

MW A ATE Y SS T

J

Duboce Park

WALTER ST

W ELT

ST GERMANIA ST HERMANN

NOE ST

CASTRO ST

DIVISADERO ST

ALPINE TER VE E BUENA VISTA TER TA A VIS NA

N

TH

PAGE ST ROSE ST

12

OCTAVIA

CK ST BRODERI

HAIGHT ST

LAUSSAT ST

RTH ST LEAVENWO

HICKORY ST OAK ST

WALLER ST LLOYD ST

ST LARKIN

GROVE ST

T AS TIN EN EM CL

ST EU AR

5 5

ST

80

J

14

Embarcadero

Moscone Center

Metreon Moscone Center West

14

F ON ST NS VE STE

L

FULTON ST

SIE JES

YE Contemporary RB Jewish Museum AB UE Yerba Buena NA Center For LN The Arts

Centre

Powell St.

Justin Herman Plaza

38

BUSH ST

Ferry to: AL/OAK HARBOR BAY FERRY GATE E

F

Montbomery St.

Westfield MASan Francisco

Hallidie Plaza

J

Asian Art Museum

Civic Center City Hall Plaza

EDDY ST TURK ST

5

LINDEN ST

Patricia's Green

HAYES VALLEY

Glide Memorial

CIVIC CENTER

ER ST MCALLIST

HAYES ST

IVY ST

LOWER HAIGHT

HYDE ST

GATE AVE GOLDEN

SF War Memorial & Performing Arts Center

BIRCH ST

Painted Ladies at Alamo Square

POLK ST

S AVE VAN NES

5

LITTLE SAIGON

ELM ST

101

ST GOUGH

ST BUCHANAN

LAGUNA ST

E ST FILLMOR

PIERCE ST

STEINER ST

SCOTT ST

O ST DIVISADER

Alamo Square

ST WEBSTER

ELM ST

Jefferson Square

Margaret S Hayward Playground

WESTERN ADDITION

DDY ST

ELLIS ST ST FRANKLIN

RRELL ST

LIS ST

EE

POWELL ST

ST

ORBEN PL WILLOW ST

Raymond Kimball Playground

TENDERLOIN

Crocker Galleria

E MAIDEN LAN

38

ero Center

Embarcad

CLAY ST

PINE ST

Union Square

38

ST OFARRELL St Mary's Cathedral

Chinatown Dragon Gate

Union Square

POST ST

JAPANTOWN

38

Ferry to: VALLEJO FERRY GATE B

R1 PIE

Walton Square

A ST CALIFORNI

Grace Cathedral

SUTTER ST

ST OFARRELL

AVE PACIFIC Sydney G

FINANCIAL DISTRICT

BUSH ST

FILLMORE

Hamilton Recreation Center

RY BLVD

T VALLEJO S Y ST BROADWA

L ST COMMERCIA

PINE ST

ST

E S T RD

F r a n c i s c o B a y

Ferry Building

A ST CALIFORNI

GEARY ST

S a n

7 R 1 Exploratorium PIE 5 R1 PIE R9 PIE

GREEN ST

N ST WASHINGTO

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

NOB HILL

OR

Embarcadero 3 R2 PIE 9 R1 PIE

UNION ST

TELEGRAPH 39 HILL

Y TUNNEL BROADWA

O ST SACRAMENT

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

BUE

TAYLOR ST

LARKIN ST

HYDE ST

S AVE VAN NES

POLK ST

ST FRANKLIN

GOUGH

OCTAVIA ST

LAGUNA ST

ST BUCHANAN

ST WEBSTER

E ST FILLMOR

STEINER ST

PIERCE ST

Lafayette Park

A ST

UCSF

CO Washington LU Square MB US AV E

30

CLAY ST

Fillmore

ST EN ST

COIT Tower FILBERT ST

ST JACKSON

PERINE PL

ST LOMBARD H ST GREENWIC FILBERT ST

NORTH BEACH

19

Alta Plaza

O ST

ST CHESTNUT Pioneer Park

Transamerica Pyramid

N ST WASHINGTO

YERBA BUENA ISLND SF IGNA L RD

AN D RD

James R. Herman Cruise Ship Terminal

CHINATOWN

PACIFIC HEIGHTS

ST

ST LOMBARD

RTH ST LEAVENWO

Polk Street Russian Hill

F

39

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

ST GREENWICH FILBERT ST

RUSSIAN HILL

101

Union Street

POWELL ST

101

STOCKTON

ST CHESTNUT Lombard Street

MACA LL A RD

Pier 35

PFEIFFER ST

WATER ST

ST FRANCISCO

COW HOLLOW

A ST MAGNOLI

MBARD ST MOULTON ST ST REENWICH PIXLEY ST

BAY ST

19

ST FRANCISCO

Moscone Recreation Center

30

30

ST

TAYLOR ST

T AS

STNUT ST

BAY ST

M

ST

Ghirardelli Square

INT NORTH PO

F

Anchorage The Square Cannery BEACH ST

DR

39

MASON ST

BR

NT NORTH POI

WAY ALLORCA

M LHA

BEACH ST

BLV D

N ST JEFFERSO

JONES ST

Y

Fort Mason

ST JEFFERSON ST LAGUNA

ERV AN TES

AY

Aquatic Park

IN ST FRANKL

EN DR RINA GRE

CO WA Y

Cable Car

Ferry to: Alcatraz Island

Aquarium of the Bay

THE EMBAR CADERO

HYDE ST

VE VAN NESS A

Golden Gate Nat'l Recreation Area

Pier 39

Pier 41

Fisherman’s Wharf

Hyde Street Pier

SL TREASURE I

PIE R4 5

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships

NORTH GATE R D

Ferry to: Oakland

Ferry to: Sausalito,Tiburon and Angel Island

Hilltop Park

WINTER 2021 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 47

MAPS / DOWNTOWN

SS Jeremiah O’Brien Pier 45 USS Pampanito

Ferry Line

C AVE PACIFISydney G

JOICE ST POWELL ST

STE V JES ENS SIE ON ST ST

MI NA NNA TO ST MA TEH ST AM AS T

STE VE NS ON ST

PE RR YS T

SH CL IPLE AR Y S AS T T

M NA INN TO A MA ST ST TEH AM AS T

BR AN W NA F ELS BL UX N S REE H OM T LO ST NS ES T T

MI NN AS T

ST TEH AM A

48 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO WINTER 2021

15TH ST

B

a

W

a

r

C

h

a

n

n

e

l

T

280

T YS RR BE

HO OP ER IRW ST IN ST

15TH ST

a

n si

te

8T HS T

B1 ST

UCSF LN 4TH ST

15TH ST

Caltrain Depot

T SS EN OW

ALAMEDA ST

14TH ST

in

SF Giants

N

T HS 6T

VALENCIA ST

WOODWARD ST

DIVISION ST

101

ORACLE PARK

VARA ST

KIN GS T

BR AN NA NS T

19

h

PIER 40

ST

C

PIER 36 PIER 38

J

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

T YS RR BE

T HS 8T

12T HS T

ST RE DO

PLUM ST

80

30

T YS RR BE

ST

ST

South Park

ST

RT BE GIL

LAF AYE TTE

PIER 30

4TH

HA RR IET

14

ST TH 11

ELGIN PARK PEARL ST

CLINTON PARK

ST

80

ST

30

ST

J

F

12

HAIGHT ST

101

TH ST

T YS AD BR

PAGE ST ROSE ST

11 TH

International

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

RIT CH ST

N TO NG LA

LINDEN ST

Moscone Center

Children's Creativity Museum

JES SIE ST

Civic Center

ST MA TO NA

Moscone Center West

T AS TIN EN EL M C

L

GROVE ST

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Metreon

BE AL ES T

East Bay and

T

ST EY NC LA DE

Asian Art Museum

FULTON ST

14

T AS TIN EN M E CL

N

Transbay Terminal

T ES ZO

Civic Center Plaza

ST IE SS JE

ST IET RR HA SS ST T S RU OSS M

City Hall

Powell St.

38

T ES RN HO WT HA

5 F ON ST S J EN

R ST MCALLISTE

HICKORY ST

J

TAYLOR ST

JONES ST

POLK ST

LAGUNA ST

ST BUCHANAN

Patricia's Green

Westfield San Francisco Centre

Hallidie Plaza

19

IVY ST

EDDY ST

5 5

EX ESS

38

EV ST

Montbomery St.

YE Contemporary RB Jewish Museum AB Yerba Buena UE NA Center For LN The Arts

Glide Memorial

ELM ST

Crocker Galleria

NE MAIDEN LA

38

ELLIS ST

J

14

T RS EA SP ST IN MA

Union Square

POST ST

BIRCH ST

ST HERMANN

Chinatown Dragon Gate

Union Square

SUTTER ST

SF War Memorial & Performing Arts Center

Ferry to: AL/OAK HARBOR BAY FERRY GATE E

F Justin Herman Plaza

38

GRANT AVE

A ST CALIFORNI

Margaret S Hayward Playground

Ferry to: VALLEJO FERRY GATE B

Embarcadero

Grace Cathedral

TO ST SACRAMEN

5

DAVIS ST

CLAY ST

ro Center

DRUMM ST

IA ST CALIFORN

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

ON ST WASHINGT

101

F r a n c i s c o B a y

R1 PIE

Embarcade

AL ST COMMERCI

FRONT ST

30

Jefferson Square

Univ./College

Ferry Building

ST JACKSON

WILLOW ST

Viewpoint

Museum

DAVIS ST

T VALLEJO S

FRONT ST

GREEN ST

Transamerica Pyramid

St Mary's Cathedral

Hospital

Scenic Drive

S a n

Walton Square

19

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

Information

Shopping Area

7 R 1 Exploratorium PIE 5 R1 PIE R9 PIE

UNION ST

ST MONTGO MERY

POWELL ST

MASON ST

TAYLOR ST

LARKIN ST

POLK ST

OCTAVIA ST

ORTH ST LEAVENW

GRANT AVE

39

Bike Route

Interstate

where traveler San Francisco

3 R2 PIE 9 R1 PIE

ON ST WASHINGT

Lafayette Park

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

Train Station

Copyright © 2021

Embarcadero

CH ST GREENWI FILBERT ST

COIT Tower ST RT E B L I F Washington Square

JONES ST

Polk Street Russian Hill

Cable Car

Cruise Ship Terminal

ST LOMBARD

Pioneer Park

KEARNY ST

H ST GREENWIC ST T FILBER

101 101

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

ST LOMBARD

10

BR AN NA NS T

Lombard Street

MUNI Metro

To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. For information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one transit James R. Herman cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, clippercard.com.

ST CHESTNUT

39

ST CHESTNUT

38

CH AN NE LS T

O ST FRANCISC

F

PFEIFFER ST

WATER ST

ST FRANCISCO

Russian Hill Park

KEARNY ST

19

MUNI Bus

BART Stop

POWELL ST

30

MASON ST

Ghirardelli Square

Pier 35

39

F

Anchorage The Square Cannery BEACH ST

JONES ST

LIN ST FRANK

Fort Mason

N ST JEFFERSO TAYLOR ST

Aquatic Park

Aquarium of the Bay

ST STOCKTON

HYDE ST

Cable Car

Fisherman’s Wharf

THE EMBA RCADERO

38

Ferry to: Alcatraz Island

PIER 27

Hyde Street Pier

Pier 41

PIER 33

where traveler

Pier 39

PIE R3 1

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships

KEY

Ferry to: Oakland

Ferry to: Sausalito,Tiburon and Angel Island

.25mi .5km

CHASE CENTER

Your imagination misses you.

START HERE exploratorium.edu