Where Los Angeles, November 2018

NOVEMBER 2018 SOCALPULSE.COM

LOS ANGELES

BECAUSE YOU’VE ARRIVED SWEET DESSERT SPOTS DRYBAR FOUNDER ALLI WEBB’S LOCAL FAVES DESIGNS THAT PUT THE “L.A.” IN COLLABORATE

JOIN THE PARTY THE COUNTY’S BEST BARS CREATE COCKTAILS AND COMMUNITY

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where

los angeles November 2018 the Nightlife issue

COntents

departments

the guide

6 Hot Dates

60 Dining Notable restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

AFI Fest kicks off awards season in Hollywood, and Grand Ave Arts: All Access takes you behind the scenes of DTLA’s world-class cultural institutions.

75 Entertainment Special events, performing arts and sports

88 30 Things We Love

76 Attractions Theme parks, activities, studio tours, museums and more

This November, we’re thankful for artisanal treats, craft cocktails and fun festivals.

79 shopping The county’s major retail destinations

where now 8 Dining

80 NIGHTLIFE Hot bars and cool clubs

80 BEACHES Sandy stops along L.A.’s coastline

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Drinking destination Apotheke, in Chinatown

82 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

10 Shopping Cool things emerge when creative minds meet, as illustrated by four new designer collaborations available in Los Angeles.

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Freshly baked treats at Winston Pies

12 Beauty Drybar founder and entrepreneur extraordinaire Alli Webb, who’s celebrating over 100 locations of her blowout boutique, shares her favorite L.A. spots with Where.

City Tours 28 Beverly Hills 32 Santa Monica 36 West Hollywood 40 Hollywood 44 Downtown 48 Pasadena 52 The Valley 54 South Bay

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14 A Toast to Your Health

ON THE COVER The bar at Highland Park Bowl. See p. 16.

The new wave of Los Angeles nightlife is all about quality and community. Play retro games or spin a vinyl record while sipping local spirits and masterfully made cocktails. By andrea richards

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20 Changing Scenes L.A. is made up of many neighborhoods. Here are the best places to eat in 10 of them—from classic fine-dining destinations like Beverly Hills to up-and-coming areas like Echo Park. by roger grody

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Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California editors online and on your smartphone.

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Copyright © 2018

where Los Angeles

From top: Art Gray; courtesy winston pies. cover: danielle bernabe

Whether you’re craving chocolate, cake, pie or ice cream, these 11 new dessert shops­— including the long-awaited L.A. location of Milk Bar—are guaranteed to give you a sugar rush.

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where magazine

publisher EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Gillian Glover

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez Contributing designer Heidi Schwindt Contributing EDITOR Suzanne Ennis contributing WRITERS

Teena Apeles, Roger Grody, Marina Kay, Andrea Richards digital Editor William Yelles digital contributors

Samantha Esquivel, Jordan Fraser contributing photographers

Dale Berman, Brown Cannon III, Matt Hartman, Edwin Santiago advertising Director ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Jessica Levin Poff

Kerry Brewer, Tim Egan, Joel Gilliam, Brooke Knetzger, Christine Penning, Heather Price business manager

Leanne Killian Riggar

circulation / SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Jennifer Salas

marketing/PRODUCTION MANAGER

Dawn Kiko Cheng administration

Stephanie Busto, Whitney Lauren Han, Eva Scattergood For Advertising Information, contact Jessica.Levin@WhereLA.com 310.280.2880

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3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Editorial Gillian.Glover@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website William.Yelles@WhereLA.com Circulation Jennifer.Salas@WhereLA.com Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles.

Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36.

Contact: Jennifer Salas. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Jennifer.Salas@WhereLA.com © 2018 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved.

Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a ­registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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WESTFIELD CENTURY CIT Y LOS ANGELES 310.919.5557

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WHERE CALENDAR

HOT DATES November 2018

LET’S DO THIS

Because we just want to have fun IN NOVEMBER Joni 75 Nov. 6-7

James Taylor, Emmylou Harris and Diana Krall are among the lineup for Joni Mitchell’s 75th birthday celebration at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. p. 75

Becoming: An Intimate Conversation With Michelle Obama Nov. 15

The former first lady shares stories from her upcoming memoir at the Forum. p. 76

UCLA vs. USC Nov. 17

Rival college teams the Bruins and Trojans go headto-head at the Rose Bowl. rosebowlstadium.com

NOV. 8-15 FEMME FILM This year marks the 32nd edition of the American Film Institute’s annual AFI Fest—L.A.’s longest-running international film festival. A-listers turn out for red-carpet galas, while the public piles into Hollywood theaters for free screenings of highly anticipated awardsseason contenders. This year, the fest opens and closes with the world premieres of two films about strong, real-life women: On the Basis of Sex, with Felicity Jones portraying Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, kicks things off, and Mary Queen of Scots, starring Saoirse Ronan and Margot Robbie (pictured above center), ends the festivities. p. 75

Jackalope Indie Artisan Fair Nov. 17-18

This art and craft fair brings over 200 local artisans to Old Pasadena’s Central Park. jackalopeartfair.com

Grand Tour Now in its fourth year, Grand Ave Arts: All Access returns to Grand Avenue for a daylong culture-filled event that showcases some of the best aspects of the city’s arts scene. From 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., over 10 of DTLA’s premier cultural institutions—including the Broad, Central Library, Colburn School, Grand Park,

L.A. Chamber Orchestra, L.A. Opera, L.A. Philharmonic, MOCA, the Music Center and REDCAT—open their doors to the public for free family-friendly activities, interactive workshops and tours, granting behindthe-scenes access to the world-class arts and cultural organizations within the six-block area of Grand

between Temple and 6th streets. Highlights include scavenger hunts at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and the Broad—no advance reservations necessary—a sugar-skull workshop at the Central Library and a Día de los Muertos celebration in Grand Park. For a full schedule of events, visit grandavearts.tumblr.com.

HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at socalpulse.com for the up-to-the-minute lowdown on the coolest concerts, plays, sporting events, festivals, art exhibitions and restaurants.

Runners hit DTLA’s streets Thanksgiving morning to burn calories and raise money for charity. p. 75

The Hollywood Christmas Parade Nov. 25

Floats, marching bands and celebrities make their way through Hollywood during this annual holiday extravaganza. p. 75

Iliza: Elder Millennial Tour Nov. 29-30

Iliza Shlesinger performs a new comedy special at the Theatre at Ace Hotel. p. 76

FROM TOP: FOCUS FEATURES; COURTESY GRAND AVENUE ARTS

Turkey Trot Los Angeles Nov. 22

Nov. 3

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404 N Beverly Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210

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WHERE NOW The best in dining, shopping and beauty

DINING

Just Desserts From mom-and-pop chocolate shops to New York’s biggest name in sweets, these new L.A. dessert shops offer something to satisfy every sweet tooth. ­—GILLIAN GLOVER CAKES AND PIES Enjoy a bevy of baked goods at these scrumptious shops. At Winston Pies’ second brick-andmortar location, freshly baked pies with all-butter crust made from founder Brianna Abrams’ family recipe are served with a side of Southern hospitality.

Enjoy the brand’s original PieBites (pictured here) in flavors like Fall Pumpkin and Blue Ridge Blueberry on the shop’s plant-filled back patio. 8366 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.925.4743, winstonpies.com

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: STEPHANIE TODARO; COURTESY MILK BAR; TANA GANDHI. OPPOSITE: MARIE BUCK

Clockwise from left: Sweet Laurel Bakery founders Laurel Gallucci and Claire Thomas; Milk Bar’s Birthday Cake; a selection of chocolates from andSons Chocolatiers

Christina Tosi’s dessert empire has finally made its way to L.A.—you can spot the city’s first location of Milk Bar by the massive photo mural of the bakery’s Birthday Cake. Inside the flagship, enjoy all of Milk Bar’s cult-favorite sweets. There’s also a hands-on classroom where you can learn how to make a layer cake or Crack Pie yourself. 7150 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.3250, milkbarstore.com Acclaimed L.A.-based bakery Cake Monkey recently opened its second shop in Westlake Village. Its updated takes on nostalgic sweets like Ding Dongs and Ho Hos are made from scratch and make you feel like a kid enjoying an afterschool treat. You’ll also find mini layer cakes, pies and breakfast and lunch offerings. 2805 Agoura Road, Westlake Village, 805.230.2252, cakemonkey.com When you step inside Sweet Laurel Bakery, a pretty-in-pink cake shop at upscale new shopping center Palisades Village,

you’ll never want to leave. Its Pinterest-worthy treats—think brownies and naked cakes dressed with fresh flowers—are paleo and free of grain, dairy and refined sugars, yet they look and taste indulgent. 15279 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades, 310.913.1829, sweetlaurel.com CHOCOLATE Curb your chocolate cravings at these shops. L.A.’s own LetterPress Chocolate, founded by husband and wife David and Corey Menkes, just opened a retail space at its West L.A. chocolate factory. Take a tour to see how the single-origin chocolate is made, then stock up on its hand-wrapped chocolate bars. 2835 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 424.240.8580, letterpresschocolate.com Popular San Francisco-based bean-to-bar chocolate factory Dandelion Chocolate has popped up in Salt & Straw’s Arts District store. Shop its bars, hotchocolate mix and cocoa nibs,

and sign up for a chocolatemaking workshop. 829 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.988.7070, dandelionchocolate.com Second-generation chocolatiers Marc and Phil Covitz and pastry chef Kriss Harvey (formerly at the Bazaar by José Andrés) are turning Beverly Hills’ Teuscher Chocolates into andSons Chocolatiers. Expect beautifully colored chocolates and European classics when the shop opens this month.

9548 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.2776, and-sons.com And L.A.-based boutique “chocolaterie” Milla Chocolates, from award-winning chocolatier Christine Sarioz, opens its first brick-and-mortar shop this month, offering chocolates, confections and coffee. 9414 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.876.1021, millachocolates.com ICE CREAM Beloved ice-cream brands from all around the world are setting up shop in Los Angeles. Santa

Barbara-based McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, known for its made-from-scratch flavors, brings its 70-year legacy to its first location on L.A.’s Westside, located at Palisades Village.

15209 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 424.330.0126, mcconnells.com Brooklyn’s Ample Hills Creamery—which Food Network has named “Best Ice Cream in America”—just opened its first West Coast outpost in a Los Feliz Craftsman house, offering a new, locally inspired horchata-based flavor, Beneath las Estrellas. 1824 Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 323.426.9009, amplehills.com And London-based scoop shop Four Winters—known for its colorful toppings and made-to-order ice cream— recently opened its first-ever U.S. location in L.A. This month, try seasonal flavors pumpkin spice crunch and vegan sweet potato. 8065 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.900.0449, fourwinters.co

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WHERE NOW / November

2018

SHOPPING

COOL COLLABS California is buzzing with creative cross-pollination this fall, and top designers are taking part. We picked four locally available collections that illustrate the power of mixing it up. —SUZANNE ENNIS

ANINE BING X JANESSA LEONÉ For their first joint collection, L.A.-born fashion houses Anine Bing and Janessa Leoné combined forces and aesthetics, designing three feminine-meets-masculine hats with a rock ’n’ roll edge. The tan Zane and the navy Arden (above) coordinate with the Dylan coat from Bing’s fall collection, and the black Skylar sports a chevron-stud pattern. Anine Bing, 15231 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 424.238.5738 and 8128 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.424.3165, aninebing.com; The Edit, Platform, 8840 Washington Blvd., #106, Culver City, 310.256.2296, janessaleone.com

ARTEK + HEATH

VANS X HEDLEY & BENNETT

THE SIL X THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL The SIL—PR pro Natalie Bloomingdale’s ultrachic e-commerce destination—launches its first capsule collection for the Beverly Hills Hotel this month, featuring Pink Palace-inspired clothing and accessories.

Among the Bloomingdale-beloved brands represented are Dovima Paris, Tish Cox and Hayden Lasher, who designed a pink pressed-Italian-leather Elle bag (above). RSVP at hi@shopthesil.com to snap up the collection Nov. 14-15 in one of the hotel’s newly redesigned bungalows; afterward, visit shopthesil.com or the hotel gift shop. Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.2251

A shared appreciation of dreaming and doing underlies a limited-edition capsule collection cooked up

by SoCal companies Hedley & Bennett and Vans.

On the menu: an H&B stretch-denim apron accented with Vans’ iconic checkerboard pattern, plus two “Made for the Makers” footwear styles— the Classic Slip-On and Sk8-Hi (above)—with rainbow soles that match a mural outside H&B’s DTLA apron factory. Select J. Crew Mens and Nordstrom locations (including Nordstrom Century City and the Grove); vans.com/hedleyandbennett; hedleyandbennett.com/vans

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEF T: JEFFERY CROSS; COURTESY IMAGE; LILY GL ASS; COURTESY IMAGE

Collaboration is in the DNA of Heath Ceramics, which has designed and manufactured ceramics in California since 1948. Now, the company’s teaming up with a like-minded icon—Finland’s Artek, co-founded by Alvar Aalto in 1935—to offer a limited-edition collection sure to wow design aficionados. Among the offerings are Artek’s Tea Trolley 900, produced with six custom Heath tile tops, and a versatile Stool 60 nesting set (above) in colors drawn from Heath’s recently refreshed palette of Coupe dinnerware glazes. Heath Ceramics, 7525 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.965.0800, heathceramics.com

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EXPERIENCE THE HOLIDAYS IN BEVERLY HILLS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEF T: JEFFERY CROSS; COURTESY IMAGE; LILY GL ASS; COURTESY IMAGE

Beginning Thursday, November 15 with the Rodeo Drive Holiday Lighting Celebration, join us for spectacular lighting displays along the streets of Beverly Hills. BOLD Holidays will also feature evening shopping on Fridays and Saturdays, live entertainment, art installations and much more!

LOVEBEVERLYHILLS.COM/BOLDBH #BOLDBH

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2018 TRAVEL BEAUTY TIP Drink tons of water, and always bring a silk pillowcase for both your hair and skin.

Drybar Slumber Party silk pillowcase, $45, thedrybar.com

BEAUTY

Best Tressed NIGHTLIFE Drybar founder Alli Webb demands quality and consistency —which explains why you can get the perfect blowout at the company’s 100-plus locations nationwide (including a new Calabasas shop).

Below, Webb shares some other places and products that pass her test.

CULTURAL FIX I love all the pop-up art galleries in L.A. and seeing a variety of artwork all over the city.

See p. 6 for Grand Ave Arts: All Access and p. 77 for museum listings.

SPLURGE-Y BOUTIQUE Definitely Elyse Walker.

That store is so well curated, with the best pieces from the best designers. 15306 Antioch St., Pacific Palisades, 310.230.8882, elysewalker.com

GUILTY PLEASURE Bluestone [Lane] makes the most delicious beet latte—it’s so good, not to be missed!

523 Rose Ave., Venice, 718.374.6858; additional L.A. locations at bluestonelane.com

ABCs of Beer

DRYBAR PICKS The 3-Day Bender and Mai Tai Spritzer are my go-to’s.

Find 18 L.A. County Drybar locations and shop online at thedrybar.com.

DATE-NIGHT RESTAURANT Catch LA. 8715 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.347.6060, catchrestaurants.com

OPEN HAUS Locally founded Face Haus—the brainchild of three San Fernando Valley moms and dermatologist-to-the-stars Dr. Harold Lancer—has been growing exponentially since its inception five years ago. Today, you can experience the brand’s facial-bar concept in Studio City, West Hollywood, Santa Monica, a new location in USC Village (pictured right) and, coming in midNovember, Manhattan Beach. Face Haus’ accessible, affordable model (a signature

facial is just $65) has struck a chord with busy women, men and teens, delivering on the company’s “facials for the people” promise and making high-quality skin care an everyday reality, not just a luxury. The chic spots also stock a curated selection of top-tier brands including Eminence Organics (a favorite of Meghan Markle), Hylunia and DermaFlash. 3201 S. Hoover St., L.A., 855.550.HAUS; visit thefacehaus.com for additional locations.

FROM TOP: COURTESY DRYBAR; COURTESY FACE HAUS

WHERE NOW / November

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On view now Works by

Paul Pfeiffer, Andreas Gursky, Pierre Huyghe, Anselm Kiefer, Ragnar Kjartansson, Sherrie Levine, Glenn Ligon, Sharon Lockhart, Ed Ruscha and more from the Broad collection.

Reserve free tickets at thebroad.org Leading Partner Image Credit: Paul Pfeiffer, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse #17, 2004. Fuji Digital chromogenic print. 60 × 48 in.

(152.4 × 121.92 cm). The Broad Art Foundation © Paul Pfeiffer. Courtesy Paula Cooper Gallery, New York

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A TOAST TO Y O Debaucherous nights don’t have to leave you hurting; the new L.A. nightlife is all about imbibing high-quality, highly curated ingredients in fantastic locations that aren’t isolated by velvet ropes. Nothing is more passé than exclusivity—it seems the entire city has tired of scenes, bad behavior

and bottle service. Instead, the hottest bars are all about community, from communal tables and retro games to menus that support locally made

spirits, beers and wines. For a fun and enlightened night out, look no further.

by ANDREA RICHARDS

Master Mixologists Go Veggie-Friendly

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innovative bartenders, cocktails might be good for more than just our mental health—there’s a healthy dose of vegetables being deployed in those shakers.

New York import Apotheke, a stylish joint in Chinatown where bartenders don white lab coats, augments alcohol’s medicinal value, mixing eucalyptusinfused tequila, mezcal, lime, a honeydew-spirulina puree and habanero bitters into its most popular cocktail, the Greenseer, which has the microgreen Bull’s Blood as a garnish (consider it a h a n k st o

salad!). The extensive cocktail menu focuses on housemade ingredients, many of which are vegetable or herbal infusions.

Taking things a few steps further is Kevin Lee, the creative mastermind and head bartender behind downtown’s newly opened The Wolves, who makes all his own amari, liqueurs, bitters and vermouths from seasonal produce.

Eschewing commercially produced spirits means the freshest of ingredients, and Lee’s cocktails are truly singular. His Mostly Carrots combines lavenderrose vermouth, juniper cordial, carrot liqueur, yuzu bitters and aromatic bitters (all homemade)

with fresh lemon and soda and receives a final spritz of “pine fragrance” from one of the many small, hand-labeled bottles atop the bar. It’s no gimmick; the drink is perfectly balanced and as exquisite as the setting—a 1911 annex to the once-grand Alexandria Hotel that has been restyled to evoke the Belle Époque. In December, a smaller upstairs bar will open as Le Néant, hosting intimate, omakase-inspired experiences.

Here, Lee will create cocktails based on guest preferences using a list of curated farmersmarket ingredients that will change as the micro-seasons do.

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Y OUR HEALTH

A martini at the Streamliner.

Opposite: Shuffleboard on Block Party’s patio

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Cocktails Take Flight

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Vinyl Spinners

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ome evenings are made for sampling cocktails and records at the same time, so,

From top: Ben Franklin’s Milk Punch, part of Bar Centro’s Bazaar Flights; the Wolves in DTLA

fortunately, a slew of new places inspired by Japanese hi-fi coffee shops and whiskey bars have landed in L.A. The cozy and midcentury-styled In Sheep’s Clothing, in the Arts District, opens in the morning as a coffee shop and then transitions at night into a full-service bar. Guests are asked to keep conversations low and not to take photographs so that everyone has a chance to engage in communal listening. Highland Park’s newly opened Gold Line is a bar actually owned by a record company (Stones Throw Records) that features a topflight

vintage hi-fi sound system and a collection of 7,500 vinyl records from label founder Peanut Butter Wolf. Located above the 800 Degrees pizzeria in Hollywood is the diminutive Sunset & Vinyl, a 1970s-inspired lounge where no more than 35 people at a time drink cocktails designed specifically for the grooves. Guests here are invited to bring along hits from their own record collections.

Rec Rooms

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eyond listening parties, there are plenty of other communal pursuits that allow patrons to play more than the field. Vintage arcade games, pinball, lawn games and even shuffleboard offer a chance to interact over drinks—and, of course, an opportunity to show off high scores. The latest incarnation of the “barcade” is Walt’s Bar, a folksy, corner bar in Eagle Rock that advertises fine wine and hot dogs on hand-painted signs.

The long wooden bar is a great place to knock back a beer from a local brewer (rotating offerings from Mumford, Highland Park Brewery and Long Beach’s Beachwood Blendery are all on tap)— that is, if you can pull yourself

away from a pinball machine long enough to finish it. Echo Park’s popular Button Mash also has an extensive list of local beers, plus pinball and some 40 golden-age arcade cabinets. If the din of blips and bleeps isn’t strong enough, knock down pins at the historic Highland Park Bowl, a gorgeous refurbished bowling alley with steampunk style, wood-fired pizza and themed cocktails. Or try The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt, a gaming parlor with two vintage bowling lanes and plenty of strong drinks.

Locally Made Spirits

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o savor local flavor, take a tour of one of Los Angeles’ distilleries. The first craft distillery in L.A. since Prohibition, Greenbar Distillery, in the Arts District, shows its hometown pride on every bottle of its small-batch, organic spirits with the tagline “Made in the City of Angels.”

Greenbar showcases local produce and L.A. flavors to capture the city’s cultural terroir, and sales support nonprofit initiatives like feeding the hungry and planting trees. Visitors can tour the distillery or take a class in craftcocktail making. Also in the Arts

from top: Dustin Downing; Grimm Lee. previous spread, from left: Gabe huerta; Wonho Frank Lee

makase-style cocktail service, where guests receive a progression of drinks based on “bartender’s choice,” is the primary draw at The Walker Inn, a speakeasy-styled bar located within Koreatown’s Normandie Club that was among the first in L.A. to adopt the practice. There are two nightly seatings for this reservation-only trip through six to seven courses of creative cocktails (accompanied by small snacks) that follows both seasonality and the staff’s creative whims. Similarly, Bar Centro at the SLS Beverly Hills (which is currently celebrating its 10-year anniversary) hosts “Bazaar Flights,” a bartender-led six-cocktail tasting menu that features whimsical and interactive presentations. One of the innovative drinks is even made using a recipe for milk punch originating from Benjamin Franklin.

In Malibu, Eat Your Drink author Matthew Biancaniello’s newly opened Mon-Li serves an intimate, 12-person, 12-course liquid tasting menu, where one can enjoy the cocktail chef’s delicious, seasonally inspired creations along with fantastic ocean views.

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GettyVil

WHERE MYTHS TAKE HOLD Rediscover Hermes, Medusa, Cupid, and other beloved mythological heroes and gods. Experience 3,000 square feet of new exhibition space, masterpieces never before on view, and a major reinstallation of the Getty Museum’s collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan treasures.

The Getty Villa. One mile north of Sunset on PCH. Reserve your free tickets today.

#gettyvilla

FROM TOP: DUSTIN DOWNING; GRIMM LEE. PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT: GABE HUERTA; WONHO FRANK LEE

getty.edu/villa

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details Apotheke / 1746 N. Spring St., downtown, 323.844.0717, apothekela.com Bar Centro / SLS Beverly Hills, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5555, slsbeverlyhillshotel.com Block Party / 5052 York Blvd., L.A., 323.741.2747, blockpartyhlp.com Broxton / 1099 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.933.9949, broxtonla.com Button Mash / 1391 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.250.9903, buttonmashla.com

From top: Greenbar Distillery in the Arts District; bottles for sale at Highland Park Wine

The Future Is Female

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hankfully, gender equity in the hospitality industry has become a concern patrons are paying attention to, and the best way to support it is by frequenting women-owned establishments.

Earlier this year, three friends and businesswomen opened Genever, an art deco-styled lounge in Historic Filipinotown whose menu celebrates the history of women-run speakeasies, fresh ingredients, Filipino flavors and, of course, gin. In Little Tokyo, using spirits from women-run distilleries is important to The Mermaid owners Katie Kildow and Arelene Roldan, whose newest venture is a fanciful, underwater-themed space serving tropical cocktails, local beers and wine.

Block Parties

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he sport of barhopping in L.A. used to be akin to island-hopping—traversing great distances to land at an isolated destination. But today, the city is more connected—and more walkable—than ever before, thanks to a focus on locality. Avoiding traffic

and sticking to the neighborhood lets you turn every evening into a block party. Bars, restaurants and coffee shops are moving in close proximity to one another so all needs can be taken care of in a single block, like the one in Highland Park that boasts Highland Park Wine—a shop from the Silverlake Wine team— Triple Beam Pizza, restaurant Hippo and coffee shop Go Get Em Tiger. Also in Highland Park, the aptly named Block Party—a modern beer garden that boasts a huge, sunny patio—serves craft beers and vino from small-production wine makers. The picnic tables and shuffleboard set invite guests to hang as a community, and food is welcomed from outside vendors (on Thursday nights, vendors sell vegan food all along

York Boulevard). Similarly, on the Westside, the newly opened Broxton is a brewpub from Artisanal Brewers Collective that boasts something for everyone —even kids. Perhaps the most elegant example of a space attempting to connect communities appears in one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, Union Station, which just welcomed the trainthemed Imperial Western Beer Co., from 213 Hospitality, where travelers and locals come together in true beer-hall fashion for inhouse-brewed craft beer. Sharing space in the historic train depot is The Streamliner, a dramatic bar from the team behind the Varnish that aims to offer “finer, faster cocktails” at an affordable price. A delicious and more democratic gimlet? Yes, please.

Gold Line / 5607 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.274.4496, goldlinebar.com Greenbar Distillery / 2459 E. 8th St., downtown, 213. 375.3668, greenbardistillery.com Highland Park Bowl / 5621 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.257.2695, highlandparkbowl.com Highland Park Wine / 5918 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.545.3535 Imperial Western Beer Co. / 800 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.270.0035, imperialwestern.com In Sheep’s Clothing / 710 E. 4th Place, downtown, 213.415.1937, insheepsclothinghifi.com Lost Spirits Distillery / 1235 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.505.2425, lostspirits.net The Mermaid / 428 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.947.3347, themermaidla.com Mon-Li / 26025 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.525.1150, mon-li.com The Spare Room / The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.769.7296, spareroomhollywood.com The Streamliner / 800 N. Alameda St., downtown, thestreamlinerbar.com Sunset & Vinyl / 1521 Vine St., Hollywood, 424.646.3375, sunsetandvinyl.com The Walker Inn / The Normandie Club, 3612 W. 6th St., L.A., 213.263.2709, thewalkerinnla.com Walt’s Bar / 4680 Eagle Rock Blvd., L.A., 323.739.6767 The Wolves / 519 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.265.7952, thewolvesdtla.com

from top: courtesy greenbar distillery; sarah pierce

District, Lost Spirits Distillery offers two-hour tours—complete with a Willy Wonka-esque boat ride—plus a tasting of its rums and malts by reservation only.

Genever / 3123 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 213.908.5693, geneverla.com

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Changing Scenes NEIGHBORHOODS IN LOS ANGELES ARE CONSTANTLY EVOLVING, AND THEIR DINING SCENES FEATURE BOTH ESTABLISHED FAVORITES AND EXCITING NEWCOMERS. BY ROGER GRODY

Pork collar with rosewater jaew, radish kimchi and flowering cilantro at Michael’s

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From left: The scene at Beverly Hills’ Spago; the Delice dessert at Tesse Restaurant

Los Angeles is a patchwork of vibrant, multicultural neighborhoods, each one with its own style, personality and flavor. Some are hip, others homey; some are the epicenters of global industries, while others are fueled by mom-and-pop enterprises. And each neighborhood offers noteworthy dining, whether at renowned institutions steeped in history or at new arrivals that reflect emerging trends.

FROM LEFT: ANTONIO DIAZ; WONHO FRANK LEE. OPPOSITE: JAKOB LAYMAN

Forever Famous Hollywood No neighborhood is more quintessentially “L.A.” than Hollywood, whose mystique has endured through good times and bad. And over the decades, Musso & Frank Grill has been one of the neighborhood’s most iconic restaurants, offering legendary martinis and steaks since 1919. A few of the waiters, all consummate pros, look like they have been there since opening night, and Musso & Frank remains a great spot to score old-fashioned dishes like turkey à la king or Welsh rarebit.

APL Restaurant repackages the spirit of Hollywood for the 21st century, yet chef/owner Adam Perry Lang draws inspiration from nostalgic chophouses like Musso & Frank. Lang trained with French-cuisine heavyweights Daniel Boulud and Guy Savoy, but his menu is all-American, featuring sophisticated renditions of old-school staples. Begin with an iceberg wedge or shrimp cocktail before moving on to prime attractions like Lang’s signature short rib and steaks. The chef has studied metalworking, so diners are presented with hand-forged knives to cut into beef that has been dry-aged on-site. The restaurant, housed in a historic building, is a contemporary reimagination of the mahogany- and leatherclad steakhouses of old Hollywood.

and beyond sample craft sakes with upscale Japanese bar food like chawanmushi (egg custard) with crab, karaage (fried chicken) and sake-marinated foie gras in a lively, convivial setting. The Tsubaki team will soon open bar Ototo next door, which will offer small-batch sakes, Japanese craft beers and shochu.

A Fashionable Scene Beverly Hills Beverly Hills offers the height of luxury and style, with brands like Gucci, Prada and Valentino setting the tone. Spago is surely not the oldest restaurant in town—places like La Scala and Lawry’s outdate it by many decades—but the Wolfgang Puck flagship is the epitome of celebrity-fueled glamour. It also earned a pair of Michelin stars for dishes like crispy-scaled black bass with lobster and sauce américaine, Cantonese duck and Austrian specialties such as kaiserschmarrn. The scene is more subdued than it used to be, but Spago remains the dining equivalent of watching the Lakers from courtside seats.

Headlining a new version of elegance is Avra Beverly Hills, the West Coast edition of a renowned Midtown Manhattan Greek restaurant where a beautiful crowd gathers to sip Greco-themed cocktails and sample authentic dishes with progressive notes. With its sleek, contemporary design, Avra is no rustic taverna, and the sophistication extends to a menu showcasing fresh seafood from the grill.

Polishing the Edge Echo Park Echo Park is an up-and-coming area—a cool, edgy neighborhood convenient to Hollywood, Silver Lake, Dodger Stadium and downtown.

Taix French Restaurant, an ornate but unfussy bistro established in 1927 that has been operating at its current location since 1962, has recently been rediscovered for timeless specialties like moules marinières, coq au vin and steak au poivre.

Introducing a brand new Echo Park is stylish, intimate Tsubaki, a true izakaya that balances authenticity with a little California fun. Loyal customers from the neighborhood

Underestimated The Valley The underrated San Fernando Valley dining scene offers everything from ethnic holes-inthe-wall to avant-garde chefs experimenting their way to stardom. An incredible concentration of sushi bars lines Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, and since opening more than 20 years ago, Asanebo has been among the best. Don’t be fooled by its modest strip-mall location, as this eatery has earned a Michelin star. Splurge on an omakase feast featuring a parade of artfully plated sushi and refined dishes laced with caviar and truffles.

The Valley is also a hotbed for French bistros, and the latest arrival is Petit Trois from former haute-cuisine chef Ludo Lefebvre and fellow renegades Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. Looking the part of a 5th arrondissement bistro, Petit Trois has an approachable menu and all-day service, so you can drop in for ham- and Gruyère-stuffed waffles in the morning, a croque monsieur at lunch and steak frites or a sloppy, sensual burger (le Big Mec) in the evening, washed down with an unpretentious Beaujolais.

Magnet for Chefs Venice Venice continues to evolve from its Muscle Beach roots into an affluent enclave for residents with artistic sensibilities. In 1990, when gentrification was just underway, Chaya Venice debuted a French-influenced Japanese menu that included the now-ubiquitous tuna tartare, a dish the Chaya team claims to have invented at its sister restaurant. Recently rebranded as Chaya Modern Izakaya, the restaurant offers a fun five-course tasting menu in addition to sushi, hand rolls and robata.

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From left: Mezze maniche alla carbonara at Felix Trattoria; the fish display at Avra Beverly Hills

Timeless & Instant Classics APL Restaurant 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280, aplrestaurant.com

Avra Beverly Hills 233 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.734.0841, avrabeverlyhills.com Boa Steakhouse 9200 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050, boasteak.com Chaya Modern Izakaya 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179, thechaya.com Felix Trattoria 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622, felixla.com Good Measure 3224 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.426.9461, goodmeasurela.com Michael’s 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843, michaelssantamonica.com Musso & Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788, mussoandfrank.com Native 620 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.4427, eatnative.la Petit Trois 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600, valley.petittrois.com Spago 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880, wolfgangpuck.com Taix French Restaurant 1911 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.484.1265, taixfrench.com Tam O’Shanter 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.664.0228, lawrysonline.com Tesse Restaurant 8500 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866, tesserestaurant.com Tsubaki 1356 Allison Ave., Echo Park, 213.900.4900, tsubakila.com

Ironically, now-trendy Venice is well represented by a restaurant that honors tradition.

At Felix Trattoria, chef Evan Funke meticulously employs centuries-old techniques to create remarkable handcrafted pasta for his tonnarelli cacio e pepe and Bolognese-style pappardelle topped with premium aged ParmigianoReggiano. Felix also offers pizzas, branzino and a 40-ounce dry-aged bistecca alla fiorentina for sharing in a modern, inviting space.

The Celebrity Corridor Sunset Strip “The Strip,” one of L.A.’s most storied and recognizable districts, boasts a rich dining heritage that has included glamorous Le Dome and the original Spago. Helping to usher in the contemporary steakhouse trend—a welcome departure from the sedate, buttoned-down chophouses that preceded it—was Boa Steakhouse, which has been part of the Sunset scene since 2001. The restaurant still looks cool, even clubby, and its updated riffs on traditional steakhouse fare deftly bridge the gap between eras.

Brand-new to the Strip is Tesse Restaurant (a play on délicatesse, or “tasty,” in French), where Michelin-starred chef Raphael Francois creates a menu that blends classic French— he’s a master charcutier—with contemporary dishes like the crab simplissime he introduced at New York’s Le Cirque. The dining room, which blends into the kitchen, is sleek and tailored, warmed by wood and leather.

Chef-Driven Coast Santa Monica Owner Michael McCarty and ambitious young chefs Nancy Silverton, Jonathan Waxman and Roy Yamaguchi (to name a few) pioneered California cuisine at Michael’s, a culinary landmark no less influential than Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. Oddly enough, current-day

Santa Monica—no longer the sleepy town it was when McCarty opened his doors in 1979—is also represented by Michael’s. The restaurateur updated his eponymous establishment, which still features great modern art and a sexy patio, and recruited Miles Thompson, another gifted young chef, to help write the next chapter of American cuisine.

New to Santa Monica is Native, a contemporary bistro from chef Nyesha J. Arrington.

Her cuisine is steeped in classic French technique (she was mentored by Josiah Citrin at Mélisse) but incorporates cross-cultural accents from her own family and beyond in dishes like wagyu beef tartare inspired by her Korean grandmother, and lamb meatballs with plantain chips and piri piri.

Finally Discovered Atwater Village Tam O’Shanter is a true survivor in Atwater Village, a neighborhood long overshadowed by adjacent Los Feliz and Silver Lake. The Tam has been attracting hungry diners since 1922—including Walt Disney, who loved the restaurant—and is now benefiting from the Village’s revival. The plaid-laden Scottish-pub-themed eatery serves fish and chips, haggis and satisfying prime rib (the accompanying Yorkshire pudding is legendary), followed by sticky toffee pudding or English trifle.

A robust dining scene has emerged on Glendale Boulevard in Atwater Village, and one of the street’s best restaurants is Good Measure, a funky, inviting wine bar where a global list complements chef Mike Garber’s crispy pork rillettes, chickpea fries and gnocchi with Parmesan cream. A group of six to eight can reserve the table in the wine cellar, featuring hands-on service from co-owner/wine director Matthew Kaner.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY FELIX TRATTORIA; WONHO FRANK LEE

Asanebo 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348, asanebo-restaurant.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BEVERLY CENTER

YOUR CULINARY ADVENTURE AWAITS

COMING SOON AMERICAN

ANGLER BY SAISON

Clockwise from top left: A decadent spread by Tocaya Organica, caviar at Angler by Saison; coffee service at LAMILL Coffee.

FOOD & FLAVOR | BEVERLY CENTER’S NEW ONE-OF-A-KIND CULINARY LINEUP CONTINUES TO EXPAND AS EVEN MORE CHEF-DRIVEN RESTAURANTS AND FAST CASUAL EATERIES OPEN WITHIN LA’S NEWLY REIMAGINED SHOPPING DESTINATION. THESE NEW RESTAURANTS JOIN RECENTLY REVEALED CAL MARE, FARMHOUSE, YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR AND OTHERS, SATISFYING FOOD LOVERS AND FOODIES ALIKE. EASY’S a modern diner counter, offering an expanded food, drink and cocktail menu throughout the day. A menu of elevated versions of old school diner fare from restaurateur Jeremy Fall, Easy’s is redefining seemingly simple food with classic salads, melted sandwiches, all-day breakfast dishes, duck parmesan and fried chicken n’ funnel cake.

The modern diner will also offer a full cocktail menu complete with playful ingredients ranging from Fruit Roll-Ups syrup and boozy snow cones.

MARUGAME UDON brings authentic Japanese dining experience with its cafeteria-style fastcasual restaurant. Committed to freshness, every dish is made-to-order with authentic udon noodles and freshly prepared broth that brings out the great taste of the noodles. Guests then take their bowl and customize it with a diverse array of toppings which include freshly grated ginger, green onion, tempura flakes, sesame seeds and more.

TOCAYA ORGANICA signature ‘Modern Organic Mexican’ cuisine, focuses on the highest quality ingredients paired with bold flavors. Taking a unique chef-driven approach, Tocaya Organica’s versatile menu, which features salads, tacos, bowls and burritos, caters to a variety of dietary preferences including vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free.

Underscoring their commitment to serving natural

and sustainable ingredients, Tocaya Organica uses sustainable fish and meats that are 100% free of hormones, steroids, and antibiotics.

LAMILL COFFEE is an award-winning specialty coffee roaster headquartered in Los Angeles. The new grab-and-go location created by founder, Craig Min, will offer a new line of frozen beverages along with traditional teas and coffee sourced from the finest estates from Colombia, Brazil, Ethiopia, Kenya and Mexico. LAMILL will also offer a menu of California style sandwiches and salads available for breakfast, lunch and dinner by Michael Mina and Adam Sobel of Cal Mare and fresh baked pastries by Farmshop.

Three-Michelin star Saison is opening an expanded restaurant concept, Angler this fall. Founded by Josh Skenes who is best known for redefining modern American cuisine, will feature a seafood-focused menu and bring his Saison approach of marrying the very best products in existence with the art of live-fire cooking. The relaxed 100-seat restaurant will boast a full bar and an expansive 3,000 bottle cellar full of rare wine selections from small production labels.

Angler by Saison will also have several spaces available for private parties.

PITCHOUN! BAKERY is an artisanal bakery, known for its commitment to authenticity and classic techniques, will serve up fresh house-made pastries and breads as well as a variety of café items. Using traditional French baking techniques to create beautiful desserts, Pitchoun! aims to share the best of the French regional specialties, such as kouign amann, pan bagnat, bredele, cannelé, and tropézienne, to name a few. 

 Parking is easy, just enter the new valet-parking lobby accessible from 3rd Street.

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From a power lunch to weekend brunch, a new experience awaits.

New stores. New restaurants. New views.

Cal Mare · Easy's · Eggslut · Farmhouse Yardbird Southern Table & Bar · Marugame Udon Pitchoun Bakery & Café · Tocaya Organica

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HOLLYWOOD MADE HERE BOOK ONLINE AND SAVE

a© & TM WBEI. WONDER WOMAN and all related characters and elements are © & TM DC Comics and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. (s17) HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & TM Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s17)

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WHERE ABOUTS

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Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

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MARVIN BRAUDE BIKE TRAIL, PHOTO BY BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

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Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

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THE MANSIONS

/ RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE / THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS / CENTURY CITY

BEVERLY HILLS It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that’s home to some of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the country’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

THE MANSIONS The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest.

Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours or Star Track Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Goyard and Stuart Weitzman recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque

side street to fine-art destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo.

Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive.

Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-square-mile modern acropolis of Century

great find

RARE BIRD Last year, one of New York’s most stylish stores, Bird Brooklyn, landed at hip shopping complex Platform. The brand’s first West Coast flagship carries women’s ready-to-wear, handbags and accessories from an eclectic selection of independent and established designers including Acne, Rachel Comey and Isabel Marant.

8870 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.596.4200, birdbrooklyn.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CONFERENCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; JESSICA ANTOLA. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

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NEW IN TOWN ba&sh

This chic, womenowned Parisian brand, started by two best friends, recently opened its first West Coast boutique. 404 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.734.7370

Crack Shack

Top Chef alum Richard Blais’ gourmet friedchicken concept arrives at Westfield Century City. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424.320.0046

Hasiba

The Lodge Bread Company team is behind this hotly anticipated kosher spot serving hummus, sandwiches and shakshuka.

8532 Pico Blvd., L.A., 424.302.0225

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

Opposite, from left: Two Rodeo; a signpost at the intersection of luxury and commerce WHERE LOS ANGELES 29

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/ WESTWOOD VILLAGE / CULVER CITY

Platform in Culver City

City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which recently unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D.

Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with bars and restaurants including Italian spot AR Cucina and seasonal California restaurant the Wallace. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms.

Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped.

Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T H E W H E R E G U ID E . F O R A N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P, S E E PA G E 9 2 .

A Marc Chagall work at Galerie Michael

insider tips

ART SMART During your shopping trip, snap up a masterpiece at one of Beverly Hills’ fine-art galleries.

Christie’s 336 N. Camden Drive, 310.385.2600 Denis Bloch Fine Art 229 S. Beverly Drive, 310.270.4880 Gagosian 456 N. Camden Drive, 310.271.9400 Galerie Michael 224 N. Rodeo Drive, 310.273.3377 Garboushian Gallery 427 N. Camden Drive, 310.274.5205 Marc Selwyn Fine Art 9953 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.277.9953 Mouche Gallery 340 N. Beverly Drive, 310.858.8114 Timothy Yarger Fine Art 354 N. Bedford Drive, 310.278.4400

FROM LEFT: BENNY CHAN; COURTESY GALERIE MICHAEL

UCLA

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HEAD TO TOE HOLIDAY CHEER ANTHROPOLOGIE | COS | GORJANA | LACOSTE MEUNDIES | NORDSTROM | SEPHORA PLUS OVER 180 STORES @WestfieldCenturyCity #WestfieldCenturyCity westfield.com/centurycity

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THIRD STREET + THE PIER

/ MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE / THE ARTS / MALIBU

SANTA MONICA THE ARTS Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s firstrate, 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue.

On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center— now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café.

THIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to The Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz.

Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe.

The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

MALIBU A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

great find

O SAY CAN YOU OSEA Malibu-based natural skin care brand OSEA—Ocean. Sun. Earth.

Atmosphere.—has long been a favorite of celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Jessica Biel. Now the nontoxic beauty brand has opened its first brick-and-mortar space, OSEA Skincare Studio, offering three facial treatments using the line’s vegan, seaweed-based products.

1732 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.985.1447, oseamalibu.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SANTA MONICA PLACE; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY OSEA. OPPOSITE: BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey.

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NEW IN TOWN Elephante

This rooftop bar and restaurant offers Italian fare and innovative cocktails, served with an Instafriendly ocean view.

1332 2nd St., Santa Monica, 424.320.2384

Makani

Chef Kevin Lee conjures up a bold, spicedriven menu inspired by his Korean roots at his new restaurant.

512 Rose Ave., Venice, 424.645.5410

Muji

The Tokyo-based home and lifestyle retailer opens its largest West Coast store on Third Street Promenade this fall. 1345 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, muji.us

Santa Monica State Beach. Opposite, from left: Santa Monica Place’s Dining Deck; Abbot Kinney Boulevard WHERE LOS ANGELES 33

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/ VENICE / BRENTWOOD / MARINA DEL REY

The Getty Villa

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square.

Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking

trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still

there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute and Monrow. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful central garden.

MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T H E W H E R E G U I D E . F O R N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P S , S E E PA G E 9 2 .

Mona Moore

insider tips

COOL CORRIDOR Shop hip wares along Venice’s up-and-coming Lincoln Boulevard.

Apiece Apart 1817 Lincoln Blvd., 424.384.5040 Bassike 1918 Lincoln Blvd., 424.228.1102 Christy Dawn 1930 Lincoln Blvd., 310.450.7860 General Store 1801 Lincoln Blvd., 310.751.6393 Iron and Resin 1916 Lincoln Blvd., 424.744.8563 Late Sunday Afternoon 1920 Lincoln Blvd., 310.450.0290 Mona Moore 208 Lincoln Blvd., 310.452.4070 Nick Fouquet 853 Lincoln Blvd., 310.310.2315 Tradesmen 1807 Lincoln Blvd., 424.835.4397

FROM LEFT: COURTESY GETTY VILLA; COURTESY MONA MOORE

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

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MainStr

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE ORDINARY, A BLOCK AWAY FROM THE BEACH The Happiest Hour on Main: join over 20 Main Street restaurants and bars for their featured Happy Hour deals up and down the street!

212 Pier Dolcenero Gelato Bike Shop Zumanity Bombshell Salon Circle Bar The Closet Trading Company Axiom Contemporary Ambiance Hair Studio Finn McCool’s KOKO One Life Natural Foods Accents Giant of Santa Monica 31Ten Dogtown Coffee Bareburger Mac 911 Bumble Bee Shoes Deluxe Nail Bar and Spa Groundwork Coffee Aaron Cleaners Angel City Books Amelia’s The Basement Anthony Schmitt Designs Beyond O2-Waterhouse Arts and Letters Ricks Tavern on Main Lost & Found Leon Max Miakel Bishay Salon Main Street Sunday Farmers Market Fitness

Natures Grooming & Boutique

LA Urban Pebbles

Nails & Spa Duganne Ateliers Ashland Hill Crossfit Santa Monica Bank

Greens Up

Hinterland

Santa Monica Beach Nail Spa

Aussie Pie Kitchen

Buffalo Exchange

OneWest T-Mobile California

Basement Tavern

Enterprise Fish Co.

2640 Main Street 310 396 2469 basementtavern.com

174 Kinney Street 310 392 8366 enterprisefishco.com

Heritage Museum Bubble Beach Laundry Alchemie Spa Framm & Co. La Vecchia Cucina Max Muscle Hollywood

Buster Shoe Repair

Ben & Jerrys

Hollywood Smoke Organic Nails & Spa Studio Brick + Mortar Bike Attack Electric Bryn Walker Eyes On Main hiptique Lorraine Colour Bar Bulletproof Coffee Edgemar Center for the Arts Clouds Art Luna Salon Chinois On Main Arts & Letters Urth Caffe

Main Street Bagels

Circuit Works Santa

Monica Dove Hair Design Fleurs Du Jour Holy Guacamole Manchego Thai Vegan Kyle Mathis Salon Stansbury Collection The Famous Enterprise Fish Co SM The Victorian Trendy Sunglasses Main Attraction Nails & Spa Dhaba Cuisine of India Books and Cookies Lula Tim Clarke ZJ Boarding House 3 Twins Ice Cream Sea Shore Motel Pinkies Nail Spa Sunny Blue Novel Café Blossom Love Adorned Mindfulnest Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Peet’s Muji Oeste Sisters & Gifts Glassware The Galley Fedora Primo Samosa House The Birdcage Pink Elephant

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La Vecchia Cucina 2654 Main Street 310 399 7979 lavecchiacucina.com

FOOD & DRINK BIKES SERVICES GYMS BOUTIQUES BEAUTY HOME & MORE EVENTS | MAINopoly | SOULstice Holiday Tree Lighting

5/10/18 2:00 8/15/18 4:23 PM PM

SUNSET STRIP

/ SUNSET PLAZA / MELROSE AVENUE / WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Estrella and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted

into the Tower Bar. And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian

than Valley Girl. For up-tothe-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Nicole Miller, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has mul-

tiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and RH: The Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which

great find

“IT”-GIRL PICK Earlier this year, Meghan Markle- and Gwyneth Paltrow-approved brand Veronica Beard opened its first West Coast boutique. Beyond the shop’s pink facade, soak in a tropical-vacay vibe while you browse feminine, flattering dresses, tailored separates, shoes and made-in-L.A. jeans, plus limited-edition designs and special collabs.

8471 Melrose Place, L.A., 323.968.0125, veronicabeard.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY OLE HENRIKSEN; ERIK MELVIN. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

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NEW IN TOWN Bünda

This StairMastercentric fitness studio creates targeted toning programs focused on sculpting the lower body.

8231 W. 3rd St., Suite C, L.A., 323.852.3355

Gabriela Artigas

The Artigas sisters expand their jewelry business, famous for sculptural pieces like tusk earrings, with their first retail store. 7970 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.424.4345

Noree Thai

The culinary duo behind Luv2eat Thai Bistro apply a modern take on traditional Thai cuisine at their third restaurant.

7669 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.937.3100

The Grove.

Opposite, from left: Robertson Boulevard; Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa WHERE LOS ANGELES 37

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/ ROBERTSON BOULEVARD / FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE

The Petersen Automotive Museum

houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and contains a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation.

Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary

menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restaurant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitross and Kitross Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele.

The District by Hannah An and Cecconi’s, popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/West Hollywood area.

At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the newly renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft & Folk Art Museum.

South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like Odys + Penelope and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, a taqueria and a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Elizabeth and James are joined by myriad restaurants including new 189 by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut).

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 92-93.

The RealReal

insider tips

STYLE SECRETS Psst: Find fashion steals and treasures at local consignment and vintage shops.

ConsignMEN 7957 Melrose Ave., L.A., 310.994.7195 Crossroads Trading Co. 8315 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.0505 Decades 8214 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.655.1960 Entre Nous 130 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 424.245.4566 (appt. only) Melrose Trading Post 7850 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.655.7679 The RealReal 8500 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.695.1795 Recess 111 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4009 Scout 8021 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.461.1530

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; JOYCE LEE PHOTOGRAPHY

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

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Time-tested for 83 years and counting.

Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND

/ SHOWTIME / WALK OF FAME / MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE / AROUND VINE

HOLLYWOOD “Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this legendary area of Los Angeles experienced a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, where throngs of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the

studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t.

Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Jason Derulo. You can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large

great find

OBJECTS OF NOTE Arguably the coolest cultural destination in Hollywood right now, gallery/store/café Japan House carries the most exquisite, carefully curated collection of items you never knew you’d covet—from imaginatively designed food graters to “architectural model accessories” at 1/100 scale. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., 2F & 5F, Hollywood, 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

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NEW IN TOWN Ma’am Sir

The Filipino-food movement continues with former finedining chef Charles Olalia’s Silver Lake restaurant inspired

by Pampanga.

4330 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.741.8371

Madame Siam Sideshow Emporium

The Houston brothers’ newest themed bar features craft cocktails and carnival games in a former speakeasy.

6533 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.337.3727

Parachute

The trendy homegoods retailer brings its unique textiles, designed in Venice Beach, across town to its second L.A. location.

3436 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.741.0045

Hollywood Pantages Theatre. Opposite, from left: Hollywood & Highland; an exhibit at the Hollywood Museum

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/ LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE / GRIFFITH PARK

The Autry Museum of the American West in Griffith Park

concentration of entertainmentindustry companies in the 1920s.

It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit.

Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood; across Vine Street is chic Japanese restaurant Katsuya.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/minicomplex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.

NIGHT CRAWLING The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed the Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse.

Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including TAO Group’s Beauty & Essex at the new Dream hotel.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los

Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake.

Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue.

Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T HE W HE R E G UID E . F O R NE I G HB O R H O O D M A P S , S E E PA G E 9 3.

=

Griffith Observatory

insider tips

#HOLLYWOOD Rack up the likes with snaps at these cool and classic Hollywood spots.

Capitol Records Building 1750 Vine St. Griffith Observatory & Hollywood Sign 2800 E. Observatory Road, 213.473.0800 Hollywood Bowl 2301 N. Highland Ave., 323.850.2000 Hollywood Walk of Fame Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, walkoffame.com Runyon Canyon 2000 N. Fuller Ave., runyoncanyonhike.com The Spare Room Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., 323.769.7296 Stahl House 1635 Woods Drive (prepaid tour reservation only), 208.429.1058 TCL Chinese Theatre Forecourt 6925 Hollywood Blvd.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY THE AUTRY; JONALYN SAN DIEGO ON UNSPLASH

NIGHT CRAWLING

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*Does not apply to food and retail locations. HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & ™ Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s18) ©2018 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 18-ADV-25057

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UNION STATION

/ GRAND AVENUE / BUNKER HILL / OLVERA STREET / HISTORIC DISTRICTS

DOWNTOWN With new restaurants and shops opening daily, downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the laid-back image of L.A. hardly applies.

UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 79-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a

formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park,

between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo.

A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art.

The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA.

OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel),

great find

MODERN-DAY MIDWAY Billed as “L.A.’s first Micro-Amusement Park™,” Two Bit Circus has transformed an Arts District-adjacent warehouse into a fun house full of carnival and arcade games with a high-tech twist, immersive “story rooms,” a VR arena and much more. Refuel with cocktails poured by a robot bartender and fun takes on fairground food. 634 Mateo St., downtown, 323.250.9964, twobitcircus.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: IWAN BAAN; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY TWO BIT CIRCUS. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened last year after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

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NEW IN TOWN Guerrilla Tacos

Chef Wes Avila’s lauded taco truck recently put it in park to open a brick-and-mortar space in the Arts District, complete with a bar and patio.

2000 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.3300

Hightide

This cult-favorite Japanese brand specializing in artisanal stationery and office supplies opens its first U.S. location in Row DTLA. 787 S. Alameda St., #140, downtown, 213.935.8135

Monty’s Good Burger

The Insta-famous vegan concept opens a permanent spot in Koreatown, serving a “plant-based In-NOut burger.” 516 S. Western Ave., L.A., 909.259.0652

Grand Park.

Opposite, from left: The Broad museum; Mark Taper Forum at the Music Center

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/ CHINATOWN / LITTLE TOKYO / L.A. LIVE / EXPOSITION PARK American National Museum.

The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door.

At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Officine Brera and Bestia.

Row DTLA lifestyle complex, near the Arts District

have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.”

Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts.

The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors

and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese

L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-ofthe-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues— WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

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Union Station

insider tips

BUILDING HISTORY Glimpse downtown L.A.’s past by visiting these iconic buildings.

Bradbury Building 304 S. Broadway The CalEdison Building 601 W. 5th St. Eastern Columbia Lofts 849 S. Broadway Fire Station No. 23 225 E. 5th St. Los Angeles Central Library 630 W. 5th St. Los Angeles City Hall 200 N. Spring St. Los Angeles Theatre 615 S. Broadway Millennium Biltmore Hotel 515 S. Olive St. Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles 535 N. Main St. Oviatt Building 617 S. Olive St. Union Station 800 N. Alameda St.

FROM LEFT: KATIE GIBBS; COURTESY UNION STATION

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

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OLD PASADENA

/ PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE / SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

PASADENA Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

OLD PASADENA A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded

by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to H&M, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the

West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable.

A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld.

Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment.

Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and new education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California.

Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

great find

THROWBACK THIRSTY Family-owned and -operated for more than 100 years, Galco’s Soda Pop Stop in Highland Park lets nostalgic shoppers choose from over 600 sodas—or create their own. There are also craft beers, vintage candies, retro toys and more. The spot has garnered all types of acclaim, and was memorably featured on KCET’s Visiting ... With Huell Howser. 5702 York Blvd., L.A., 323.255.7115, sodapopstop.com

TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; BOTTOM: MARTHA BENEDICT. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

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NEW IN TOWN Laemmle Glendale

The art house chain has a new five-screen movie theater in the city’s arts and entertainment district. 207 N. Maryland Ave., Glendale, 310.478.3836

Otoño

Dine on tapas, raciones and paella at chef Teresa Montaño’s new Highland Park restaurant, which serves modern Spanish cuisine with a California influence. 5715 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.474.6624

The Wicked Boheme

Shop boho-chic home decor—like handmade candles and rattan furniture—at this local brand’s new showroom.

2395 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena, thewickedboheme.com

Pasadena’s Colorado Bridge.

Opposite, from left: Pasadena City Hall; Huntington Gardens WHERE LOS ANGELES 49

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/ EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

The Gamble House

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California.

Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Steps from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

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The Langham Huntington, Pasadena

insider tips

TEA TIME Put your pinkies up at these local teahouses.

Chado Tea Room 79 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.431.2832 Huntington Rose Garden Tea Room 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2100 Kendall Alley N. Raymond Avenue and E. Union Street, Old Pasadena The Langham Huntington, Pasadena Lobby Lounge, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6218 Madeline Garden 1030 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.795.5599 Rose Tree Cottage 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 The T Room 2405 Honolulu Ave., Montrose, 818.249.6677 Tea Rose Garden 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.578.1144

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY THE LANGHAM HUNTINGTON, PASADENA

SOUTH PASADENA

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UNIVERSAL CITY

/ BURBANK / NORTH HOLLYWOOD / VENTURA BOULEVARD / DEEP IN THE VALLEY

THE VALLEY

UNIVERSAL CITY A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter attraction is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfield-themed “world.”

Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include

new Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of

your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea,

but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites).

Always-packed Porto’s Bakery offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors?

Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses.

And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport.

It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and

great find

SEAFOOD CENTRAL Joining Sherman Oaks’ burgeoning dining scene is The Joint, a gourmet café and seafood market from Boba Truck founder Liwei Liao. Take home fresh fish, shellfish, live crustaceans, seasonal delicacies and exotic imports from around the world, or stop by for a class to learn seafood-preparation techniques. 13718 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.510.0626, thejointeatery.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN (2); WONHO FRANK LEE. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; KRISSY LEFEBVRE

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms.

Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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Hogwarts Castle at Universal Studios Hollywood.

Opposite, from left: Downtown Burbank; Idle Hour in North Hollywood

is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Holly-

wood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions.

Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its family-oriented lifestyle.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

Petit Trois

insider tips

RISE AND SHINE Start your day off right at one of the Valley’s homey breakfast spots.

Another Broken Egg Cafe 250 E. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.563.3344 Bea Bea’s 353 N. Pass Ave., Burbank, 818.846.2327 Blu Jam Café 15045 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.906.1955 Café de Olla 2315 W. Victory Blvd., Burbank, 818.588.3684 CiCi’s Cafe 18912 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, 818.881.6704 Good Neighbor Restaurant 3701 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Studio City, 818.457.6050 Nat’s Early Bite Coffee Shop 14115 Burbank Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.781.3040 Petit Trois 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600

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MANHATTAN BEACH

/ HERMOSA BEACH / REDONDO BEACH

SOUTH BAY the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue.

Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

MANHATTAN BEACH Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s.

Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier (whose Roundhouse Aquarium is undergoing improvements) features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite,

Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at Shade hotel.

Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa

shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor.

Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the

great find

MADE IN THE SHADE A few years ago, production designer Johnny Flanagan whipped up a vintage-inspired leather visor for his partner, stylist Lauren Kolodny. Since then, the duo’s hobby has evolved into Right Tribe: a creative studio and tucked-away seaside shop that sells handmade leather bags, planters, funky collectibles and, yes, visors—a cool-kid must-have. 328 Center Place, Manhattan Beach, shoprighttribe.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY L.A. COUNTY DEPT. OF BEACHES & HARBORS; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC; COURTESY RIGHT TRIBE. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch known for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

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NEW IN TOWN Little Sister

Chef Tin Vuong flipped his former Suburbia restaurant into a third outpost of his popular Southeast Asianinspired spot. 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237

Polish

by Sand Spa

Sand Spa, founded by a pair of former collegiate athletes, opens its first stand-alone, full-service nail salon— with a colorful mural outside. 3219 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.796.2457

Tocaya Organica

This locally sourced Mexican eatery boasts organic menu items, served in a casual, yet sophisticated, environment at shopping center the Point. 850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 424.352.0876

The Redondo Beach Pier. Opposite, from left: The Manhattan Beach Pier; an exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific WHERE LOS ANGELES 55

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PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

/ SAN PEDRO / LONG BEACH miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Light-

house is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-squarefoot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors.

More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few

WF O R BOLD I T E M S, S E E T HE W HE R E G UIDE . F O R A NE I GHB O R H O O D M A P, S E E PA GE 9 3.

Two Guns Espresso in Manhattan Beach

insider tips

BEACH BUZZ Get a strong cup of coffee culture at these South Bay cafés.

Blue Butterfly 351 Main St., El Segundo, 310.640.7687 The Boy & the Bear 350 N. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, theboyandthebear.com Gum Tree 238 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.376.8733 Java Man 157 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.7209 Lord Windsor Coffee 1101 E. 3rd St., Long Beach, 562.901.2111 North End Caffe 3421 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.4782 Sirens Java & Tea 356 W. 7th St., San Pedro, 424.477.5603 Two Guns Espresso 350 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach; more at twogunsespresso.com

FROM LEFT: NIAZ UDDIN; COURTESY TWO GUNS ESPRESSO

Santa Catalina Island

LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

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WHERE CUISINE MEETS THE L.A. SCENE

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THE GUIDE “ARCTIC TREASURE” BY SERGEY GORSHKOV, RUSSIA. FINALIST: ANIMAL PORTRAITS © SERGEY GORSHKOV/WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

WHERE

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ATTRACTIONS

Wild Life The Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County presents the West Coast debut of Wildlife Photographer of the Year, an exhibition illustrating the beauty and drama of the natural world with the goal of promoting sustainability and conservation. Of the almost 50,000 entries submitted by both professional and amateur photographers from around the globe, only 99 were selected to tour with the show, on loan from the Natural History Museum, London. The award-winning images range from tiny insects (a swarm of monarch butterflies adorning trees in Mexico) to massive mammals (a pack of lions attacking a giraffe in South Africa). On view through Jan. 6, 2019. Tickets for Wildlife Photographer of the Year are separate from general admission.

See museum listings.

8/15/18 2:14 PM

/ DINING AMERICAN 71ABOVE In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes (e.g., farm egg with crispy potato, chorizo, raclette, lime and cilantro) at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$$ Map H16 ANIMAL This bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 CASTAWAY Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa–Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 $$$ Map north of W21

Artsy Mediterranean Bestia chef Ori Menashe and wife/pastry chef Genevieve Gergis bring Middle Eastern cuisine into the mainstream at Bavel, a lively, trendsetting restaurant occupying a former brick warehouse also in the Arts District (and one of the hardest reservations to get in the city). Inspired by the couple’s roots in Israel, Morocco, Turkey and Egypt, Bavel’s menu features a wide-ranging selection of mezze including silky hummus (pictured above), eggplant baba ghanoush with puffy fried pita, and sinfully sumptuous foie-gras halva with date paste. Larger plates include herb-stuffed dorade with red chermoula and wagyu beef-cheek tagine. Gergis churns out licorice-ice-cream bonbons and rose-clove chocolate doughnuts for dessert.

D (nightly). 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.232.4966 $$$

CATTLE & CLAW Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ new pop-up restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef).

Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$ Map I12 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 DELILAH This celebrity-favored restaurant/lounge from the H.Wood Group pays homage to the Roaring ‘20s and offers a menu of classic and modern American cuisine (e.g., deviled eggs, chicken tenders and funnel cake). It’s the perfect spot for drinks, dinner and dancing.

Reservation-only. D (Tu-Su). 7969 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.745.0600 $$$ Map H12 FREDS AT BARNEYS Inside Beverly Hills retail destination Barneys New York, the first West Coast outpost of the retailer’s signature restaurant is a go-to for power lunches, shopping breaks and happy hour. Try the artisan pizza with Robiola and truffle oil or the Beverly Hills club sandwich.

Balconies boast views of the Hollywood sign and Beverly Hills. L (daily). 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Fifth Floor, Beverly Hills, 310.777.5877 $$$ Map J11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 THE INDEPENDENCE This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica, which pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad that connected downtown L.A. with what is now the Santa Monica Pier back in 1875, offers a great happy hour and a menu of New American cuisine that includes blistered shishito peppers and entrées like wild local sea bass. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN This rusticyet-sophisticated restaurant offers creative takes on American regional classics. Try the Jimmy burger with jalapeño jam, pimento cheese and applewood-smoked bacon. Santa Monica: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

Woodland Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1733

GUIDELINES

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue.

Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX American........................60 Mediterranean...............66 Breweries/Gastropubs..61 Mexican/Latin................66 British/Irish....................61 Pan-Asian.......................66 California........................61 Quick Bites.....................66 Chinese...........................62 Seafood...........................67 Eclectic/Fusion..............62 Spanish...........................67 French............................63 Steak...............................68 Italian..............................64 Thai............................................68 Japanese........................65

Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 424.292.5222; The Village at Westfield Topanga, 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.369.0005 $$ Map M8, northwest of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill from Karen and Quinn Hatfield features a live-fire grill and woodfired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails.

Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options also available. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 OSTRICH FARM This intimate, 50-seat neighborhood gem in Echo Park serves classic, locally sourced American heritage fare. It’s a popular brunch destination; favorite dishes include the sweet-potato bowl and smoked-salmon tartine. D (nightly), Br (Tu-Su). 1525 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.537.0657 $$ Map north of G16 PLAN CHECK KITCHEN + BAR Minichain offers contemporary takes on American classics, complemented by craft beers and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather, followed by cruller doughnuts for dessert. L.A., Fairfax, downtown: L, D (daily); Br (Su). Santa Monica: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.857.1364 $$ Map K9, I12, H16, L8 P.Y.T. At this seasonal, vegetable-centric restaurant, chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston), offers eclectic dishes such as bincho-grilled kanpachi with greens, citrus and fried lentils; green piri-piri rice with an over-easy egg; and Gianduja mousse and rice pudding for dessert. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7015 $$ Map I17 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken pot-

W Chef Kris Yenbamroong credits late L.A. Times food critic Jonathan Gold with saving his now-popular Night + Market restaurant from closure. p. 68

NICOLE FRANZEN

THE GUIDE

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DINING pie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17

BREWERIES/GASTROPUBS FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly).

Culver City: L (F-Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 SIMMZY’S Popular pub serves up hearty burgers (try the classic Simmzy’s), sandwiches, salads and other fresh fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3000 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.962.2500; 5271 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.439.5590; 229 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.1201; 37 Washington Blvd., Venice, 424.835.6580 $ Map T20, O17, L13, N9

BRITISH/IRISH YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, including acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa).

116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

CALIFORNIA CUISINE 1 PICO This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 $$$ Map M8 208 RODEO This gem of a café boasts a picturesque setting above Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street at luxe Two Rodeo—the perfect place to while away an afternoon and enjoy all-day California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences. Standout dishes include wagyu burgers, seafood salad and penne arrabbiata. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 AKASHA Chef/owner Akasha Richmond takes ecoconsciousness to new heights with sustainable decor and organic ingredients. The menu of comfort food includes humanely raised meats (e.g., Niman Ranch flat iron steak), but Richmond also offers intriguing vegetarian plates. L (M–F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$ Map L11 BARAN’S 2239 This South Bay restaurant from brothers Jonathan and Jason Baran serves up shareable dishes in an intimate space that belies its strip-mall setting. Chef Tyler Gugliotta (the Tasting Kitchen) incorporates produce from his family’s farm into seasonal specialties with multicultural influences. D (Tu-Su). 502 Pacific Coast Hwy., Hermosa Beach, 424.247.8468 $$ Map L13 DIALOGUE James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant (eight seats at a kitchen counter, plus three tables). One market-driven 15- to 21-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online. D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd Street Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com $$$$ Map L8 EVELEIGH With a menu chockablock with farmersmarket veggies and meats in a country-chic space, Eveleigh projects an image of cool rusticity. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8752 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.239.1630 $$ Map H12 GRATITUDE This upscale, plant-based restaurant from the team behind Café Gratitude and Gracias Madre offers a seasonally rotating menu and a curated cocktail program that both use 100 percent organic and sustainably

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DINING baked pastries. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

CHINESE BAO DIM SUM Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12 DIN TAI FUNG Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898; The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068; Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 $$ Map J10, U23, R23 (2), D2 LIORIENT ASIAN BAR & RESTAURANT This restaurant on the fourth floor of the U.S. Bank Tower serves a menu of classic Chinese favorites (think: scallion pancakes and whole Peking duck). The handmade xiao long bao, offered in a rainbow of colors, is a house specialty.

Don’t miss the traditional Chinese breakfast on weekdays. B, L (M-F); D (M-Sa). 633 W. 5th St., Suite 400, downtown, 323.500.1186 $$ Map I16

sourced ingredients. Everything’s served in a lovely, lightfilled space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 419 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 424.389.1850 $$ Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6566 $$$ Map J11 LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13 MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 24-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his paternal grandmother. Four times a year, Stone and his team offer a new tasting menu and optional wine pairings inspired by a great wine region of the world. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11 MICHAEL’S Michael McCarty’s influential farm-totable restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8

RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners.

Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8 SADDLE PEAK LODGE Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this elegant hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as 1-pound aged cowboy rib-eye and New Zealand elk with English pea-bacon jam, Meyer lemon, crispy potato and asparagus. D (nightly), Br (Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (TuSa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11 THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. Exeutive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights award-winning coastal California cuisine. The street-level bar is a great spot for a sunset cocktail. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

MILO & OLIVE The husband-and-wife team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery.

Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is communal tables and bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9

TAR & ROSES Chef Andrew Kirschner’s first restaurant focuses on small, rustic shareable plates cooked in his wood-burning oven, but with a week’s notice, he can also whip up large, lavish family-style suppers of Moroccan-spiced goat or standing rib rack.

D (nightly). 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 $$$ Map L8

PALEY This glamorous restaurant (named after former CBS CEO William S. Paley) pays homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 $$$ Map H14

THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9

PLANT FOOD + WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9

TAVERN James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs.

The adjacent, more casual Larder offers divine house-

MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly).

344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 ROC Westside diners celebrated when ROC (it stands for Republic of China) and its xiao long bao arrived in Little Osaka; it’s since expanded to Beverly Grove and Playa Vista. Popular menu items include a scallion pancake and made-from-scratch soup dumplings stuffed with pork and fresh crab. L, D (daily). 2049 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.235.2089; 8474 W. 3rd St., Suite 108, L.A., 323.782.8808; 12775 Millennium Drive, Suite 110, L.A., 424.835.4777 $$ Map K10, I12, 010 YANG CHOW Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

ECLECTIC/FUSION BAROO Tucked in a homely Hollywood strip mall, this highly acclaimed restaurant from chef Kwang Uh, who was raised in Korea and staged at Noma in Copenhagen, is a celebration of experimentation and fermentation.

The concise, oft-changing menu includes bibim salads, rice bowls and handmade pastas. L, D (Tu-Sa). 5706 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.819.4344 $$ Map H14 CASSIA This bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng (the Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu, black cod with anchovy broth, and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Sister concept Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16

COURTESY FELIX TRATTORIA

Rolling out pasta at Felix Trattoria. p. 64

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DINING VESPERTINE Chef Jordan Kahn’s mysterious, pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s 101 best restaurants. Expect a space-age meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la $$$$ Map L12

FRENCH CAFÉ PINOT This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, sky­line views—from the bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina Group. D (M-Sa). 700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$ Map H16

VISIT OUR LOCATIONS AT 1733 Ocean Avenue Santa Monica, 90401

KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). The BoardRoom, a Parisianinspired lounge with live music, is adjacent. L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

The Village at Westfield Topanga 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd.

Woodland Hills, 91367

LE PETIT PARIS The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 $$$ Map I17

j-fat.com

THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12

LUNCH

DINNER

WEEKEND BRUNCH

HAPPY HOUR

Ye Olde King’s Head

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World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

LITTLE NEXT DOOR The Little Door’s charming, casual extension serves modern French brasserie fare and boasts an in-house patisserie featuring viennoiserie, macarons and pastries. L, D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su).

8/2/18 6:16 PM 8142 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1010 $$ Map I12 MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated, modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster Bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16 PETIT TROIS Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-barstyle spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A new location recently opened in the Valley. L.A.: L, D (daily). Sherman Oaks: B, L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916; 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 $$$ Map H13, G10

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd.

Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13 TESSE RESTAURANT Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights—handcrafted charcuterie and foie gras, duck confit, leg of lamb, steak frites—updated for 21stcentury L.A. Pioneering mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly).

8500 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 $$$ Map H12

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DINING pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 LOCANDA DEL LAGO Northern Italian restaurant features organic produce from Santa Monica farmers markets. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8 MATTEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures.

Classic dishes include mussels in white wine and osso buco Milanese. D (Tu-Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 OFFICINE BRERA From the team behind the Factory Kitchen, this stylish trattoria serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu in a rustic-meets-contemporary space. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. L (M-F), D (nightly).

1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 $$$ Map J17 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which include this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13

TROIS MEC The foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook is behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. D (M-F). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

ITALIAN

cent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espressobar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DAN TANA’S New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks.

Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 $$$ Map I11

ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, featuring dumplings filled with a hot broth that explodes in your mouth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23

DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16

BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of housecured meats. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17

THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17

BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too.

B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16

FELIX TRATTORIA Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glass-enclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—pappardelle, tonnarelli, strascinati—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 $$$ Map M9

CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to well-heeled clients who schmooze over Bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12

JON & VINNY’S Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2

CULINA The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adja-

LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic Northern Italian cuisine is served in a laid-back bistro. Find more than a dozen

ROSSOBLU Chef Steve Samson (Sotto) and wife Dina recently opened this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where he serves Bolognese family favorites. Pastas and salumi are made in workshops visible from the cellar wine room, which is available for private dining. D (nightly). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.10990 $$$ Map J16 SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS Chef Antonia Lofaso’s popular Italian-American restaurant serves up oldschool dishes like rice balls, crispy squash blossoms and squid-ink calamari, plus traditional desserts (think cannoli, spumoni and Italian cookies). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2905 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.821.1100 $$$ Map N10 SOTTO Steve Samson and chef de cuisine Craig Towe serve dishes like squid-ink campanelle and paccheri with spicy pork ragu, Tuscan kale, pecorino and fennel pollen at their acclaimed regionally inspired Italian restaurant. Other highlights include Neapolitan pizzas like the Guanciale or Fiorata cooked in an 8-ton woodburning oven. D (nightly). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 TERRONI Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain. Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. Downtown: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). L.A.: L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 UNION Enjoy a taste of Northern Italy at this intimate spot in Old Pasadena. Standout dishes include Hope Ranch mussels with guanciale, and spaghetti alla chitarra enhanced with San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and a hint of Fresno chili. D (nightly). 37 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.795.5841 $$ Map Q20 VALENTINO For more than 40 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a pre-eminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

SKANDIA SHAFER

HOLY MOLE Tucked into the same Echo Park strip mall as Sunset Beer Company is new Mexican-inspired concept Bar Caló, a stylish spot from the owners of nearby Ostrich Farm (p. 60). Perch on one of the velvet stools and order from a menu of around 30 regionally focused mezcals and shareable plates. Stop by during weekend brunch for coffee and a bowl of chilaquiles en mole (pictured above), or come by at night with a date for cocktails and a quesadilla de Jamaica with mezcal salsa.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1498 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.278.0901 $$

PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13

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DINING JAPANESE

Explore, taste, and shop Japan

ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. The expansive restaurant consists of a sushi bar, lounge space, large communal table and terrace. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14 KATANA Sunset Strip restaurant with a sushi bar and robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscale-casual dress code. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck.

L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; The Americana at Brand, 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 323.525.2400 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso-anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M-F), D (nightly).

129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 MTN Chef Travis Lett (Gjelina, Gjusta) is behind this new California izakaya, pronounced “mountain,” where foodies perch on bar stools to dine on fare like charred Japanese sweet potato and slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. D (nightly). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 $$ Map N9

Monozukuri Shop and Cafe | Level 2 Hollywood & Highland WhereMag.qxp_Courier 7/04 1/4/17 3:42 PM Page 1

NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents.

West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q SUSHI The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and monkfish as rich as foie gras. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16 ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12

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SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19 TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA RESTAURANT Twentyone floors above downtown L.A.’s Financial District, you’ll find this restaurant serving elevated sushi, robata

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DINING lobster with chili butter in a sexy surf-lodge setting.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1238 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.1829 $$ Map L13 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude.

Inventive dishes like coconut-ceviche tostadas and flautas de papas please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12 MAESTRO This restaurant brings Mexican fine dining and mezcal- and tequila-based craft cocktails to Old Pasadena. Try the lamb barbacoa and picadas with queso fresco. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 110 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.787.1512 $$ Map Q20 ROSALINÉ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant—named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., lima-bean salad, kampachi ceviche, chicharron de paiche). The cuisine is complemented by Peruvian cocktails from Jeremy Lake.

D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 $$$ Map I12 SALAZAR This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla.com $$ Map southeast of W23

and Japanese-influenced entrées. The dishes pair nicely with signature cocktails and 360-degree views of the city. Dine inside or on the outdoor patio. L (M-F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st Floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$$ Map H16

MEDITERRANEAN A.O.C. Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning chef/owner Suzanne Goin. Try the addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a lovely terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney. Menu favorites include Dover sole and potted house-smoked salmon.

The extravagant, seafood-centric Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne brunch is a don’t-miss. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 BOWERY BUNGALOW Restaurateur George AbouDaoud honors his Middle Eastern heritage at this Silver Lake restaurant by applying Silk Road flavors to all-American concepts like Southern baby back ribs and a Brooklyn-style Reuben sandwich. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.663.1500 $$ Map south of W23 CLEO At this restaurant, executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and lamb, and wood-burned flatbreads. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.658.6600 $$$ Map I12 CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 FIG & OLIVE Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is

an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett (also behind Gjusta and MTN), Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled salmon wrapped in grape leaves and served with green rice, feta, labneh and caper salsa.

L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 MIRO Order from a pan-Mediterranean menu of shareable dishes such as wood-fired pizzas, charcuterie and pasta at this stylish Financial District restaurant. Downstairs is a glamorous whiskey lounge and an invitationonly “vault” filled with some of the world’s rarest labels.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 888 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.988.8880 $$$ Map I16

MEXICAN/LATIN BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 B.S. TAQUERIA The colorful setting at this Ray Garcia-helmed spot—a casual sibling of Broken Spanish, above—offers the right vibe for lemon-pepper chicken chicharrones or clam-and-lardo tacos. A B.S. Taqueria concession stand serves tacos and churros at Staples Center. L (M-F), D (nightly). 514 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.622.3744 $$ Map H15 DÍA DE CAMPO Part of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Abigaile, Steak & Whisky), this restaurant offers innovative Mexican dishes such as chocolate-duck quesadillas, chorizo-stuffed dates and wood-grilled

TALLULA’S At this colorful new entry from the Rustic Canyon team, dine on fresh Mexican fare (think: grilled swordfish tacos, yellowtail ceviche and organic turkey enchiladas) by the beach. Pair with refreshing cocktails like the passion fruit mezcal margarita. D (nightly).

118 Entrada Drive, Santa Monica, 310.526.0027 $$$ Map L8

PAN-ASIAN THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities. Dishes such as Wok Lobster with handmade noodles are enjoyed with Southeast Asiainspired cocktails. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE SISTER Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s panAsian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and saltand-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 $$ Map L13, I16, M13 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and a Far East-inspired cocktail program. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (TuSa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room D (Tu-Sa). Nest D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

QUICK BITES THE APPLE PAN Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger lovers wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu-Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10

JOSH TELLES

Dishes and drinks at APL Restaurant. p. 68

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DINING

PRIME AGED

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL The purported birthplace of the French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17 PINK’S HOT DOGS There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot-dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13

TO PERFECTION

SEAFOOD BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England clam chowder and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map L8 CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for its great nightly happy hour, too. L (M–F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 CAL MARE This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. D (nightly). 131 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 424.332.4595 $$$ Map I12 DUKE’S MALIBU Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood.

Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes with housemade pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13

Los Angeles 735 South Figueroa St. 213-553-4566

SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 435 S. La Cienega Blvd.

310-246-1501

Woodland Hills 6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

Burbank 3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

South Coast Plaza Village 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

Anaheim 1895 South Harbor Blvd.

714-621-0101

Mortons.com

NATALE E T H A I

C U I S I N E

“The Best of Culver City” 8 Years in a Row ~Culver City News

“Readers’ Choice Award” ~LA Times “Best of The West Side” ~The Argonaut

Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd.

Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd.

Full Bar | Valet Parking

Dine In | Delivery Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

PROVIDENCE Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s and fish shop Cape Seafood and Provisions) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant, which the Los Angeles Times rates as one of the best in the city.

Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14 ROY’S James Beard Award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi, who pioneered innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. more than 30 years ago, is behind this chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants with stylish tropical decor. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map west of A1, Q21 SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

SPANISH THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to the SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic to cutting-edge. New concept Somni is billed as a “multi-

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DINING Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20

NEW MOON Last year, chef Raphael Lunetta (formerly of Santa Monica’s JiRaffe) opened two-in-one restaurant Lunetta, with a daytime concept dubbed Lunetta All Day and, now, a sophisticated nighttime option, Lunetta at Night. Dinner destination Lunetta Dining boasts a new chef-driven, seasonal menu of dishes crafted with ingredients from the Santa Monica Farmers Market. For drinks, head to the Moon Bar in the back and enjoy handcrafted, produce-driven cocktails (pictured right).

D (Tu-Sa). 2420 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.581.9888 $$$

STEAK ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu.

Bull & Barrel bar concept offers the menu and a whiskeyforward cocktail menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 APL RESTAURANT At classically trained chef and barbecue expert ­Adam Perry Lang’s new steakhouse, starters include versions of old-school favorites (e.g., iceberg wedge, shrimp cocktail). The rib-eye, T-bone and porterhouse are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 $$$$ Map H14 THE ARTHUR J This Manhattan Beach steakhouse by chef David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite) offers a classic menu that will delight any carnivore, but the seafood dishes and sides-with-a-twist are excellent as well. D (nightly). 903 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.878.9620 $$$$ Map C2 BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-orstars dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12 BOA STEAKHOUSE Way hip, way fine steakhouse.

Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. Santa Monica: D (nightly). West Hollywood:

NICK + STEF’S Bunker Hill institution Nick + Stef’s is a midcentury-modern vision whose menu includes showstopping meat dishes, as well as an expanded seafood menu. USDA prime beef is aged on-site in a glassencased aging chamber. L (M-F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE This chain of upscale steakhouses is known for offering the finest cuts of USDA prime beef, served sizzling on 500-degree plates, as well as award-winning wines. 369 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.583.8122; 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8744; 13455 Maxella Ave, #230, Marina del Rey, 310.821.4593; The Promenade, 6100 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Suite 1360, Woodland Hills, 818.227.9505 Map Q20, J11, N10, west of A1 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. Pianist Gary Sherer performs Th-Sa evenings in the Gar Bar. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12

L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12

STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has checked into the W hotel in Westwood. Expect starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

THAI

CUT A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$ Map J11

JITLADA THAI The wait for a table is long at this top-rated restaurant in East Hollywood’s Thai Town, but the southern Thai specialties are authentic and exceptional. L, D (Tu-Su). 5233 1/2 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare. Beverly Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, west of A1

NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chilies) and a sole filet in red curry sauce.

Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry.

L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, J12

L.A. PRIME Enjoy city views and wet-aged steaks at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. An award-winning wine list complements a surf-and-turf menu. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 $$$$ Map I16 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by whole Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills,

NIGHT + MARKET For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or new Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong.

WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). Venice: D (W-M). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899; 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 $$ Map I12, south of W23, M9

where?

LOG ON ANYWHERE. SOCALPULSE.COM

ACUNA-HANSEN

sensory culinary experience” with a 20-plus-course tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock.com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

MUSSO & FRANK GRILL Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes and lobster Thermidor with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (Tu-Sa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13

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LADINING LOCANDA DEL LAGO Locanda del Lago blends organic produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and many other local purveyors with Italian ingredients to create dishes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. This family-run restaurant attracts celebrities, foodies, locals and travelers with its authentic and traditional recipes. Dishes feature high-quality meats and pastas such as all-natural Niman Ranch veal shank, salt baked wild sea bass, housemade ravioli and home-made buckwheat pappardelle.

A full vegetarian menu is also available. Enjoy the breads, desserts and gelato, made in-house daily. The warm interior and sidewalk patio overlooking the bustling Third Street Promenade also offers a daily happy hour that features specialty cocktails and local and Italian wines. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.3525 • lagosantamonica.com

STK Combining a modern steakhouse with a chic lounge at the W Los Angeles - West Beverly Hills hotel, STK makes steak a stylish affair. Each table is illuminated by theatrical lights, and smoky mirrors let diners take in their surroundings while a DJ sets the mood with an energetic live set. Of course, steak is the main attraction here: Choose from high-quality small, medium and large cuts of USDA beef. Other menu highlights include market-fresh fish entrées, tuna tartare, Lil’ BRGs and sides like Parmesan truffle fries and sweet corn pudding. D (nightly).

930 Hilgard Ave., L.A. 310.659.3535 • stkla.com

GRATITUDE BEVERLY HILLS Love Serve Remember—parent company of Café Gratitude (which has locations in Larchmont Village, downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Venice) and Gracias Madre in West Hollywood— brings an upscale iteration of its plant-based concepts to Beverly Hills with Gratitude. Just like its flagship location in Newport Beach, Gratitude Beverly Hills offers a seasonally rotating menu crafted by executive chef Seizan Dreux Ellis that’s designed to support health and sustainability for the community and the planet. And just like the cuisine, the curated cocktail program uses organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s all served in a light-filled, 3675-square-foot space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

419 Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills 424.389.1850 • cafegratitude.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Artichoke Flatbread Clams Casino New Zealand Snapper Crudo Farmers Market-Driven Plates Sweet 100 Tomatoes Roasted Carrot Salad Burrata

1 PICO In the 25 years since it first opened, 1 Pico has garnered a reputation as one of Southern California’s premier oceanfront dining venues. Located inside luxurious hotel Shutters on the Beach, the upscale restaurant recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Chef de cuisine David Almany (formerly of Osteria Mozza and Singapore’s Angeleno) utilizes seasonal, market-fresh ingredients in dishes influenced by his global perspective. Copa d’Oro’s Vincenzo Marianella has put a fresh spin on 1 Pico’s bar program, whose highlights include handcrafted cocktails and one of Santa Monica’s most reputable wine lists. In addition to inventive food and drinks, the restaurant boasts majestic views of the beach and Pacific Ocean, framed by large, floorto-ceiling windows. The space was designed by famed interior designer Michael S. Smith, with whitewashed, shiplap walls that contribute to its refined, coastal feel. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

Pastas and Entrées Mafaldine Lunghe New Zealand Grouper Bone-In Heritage Farms Pork Chop

Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica

310.587.1717 shuttersonthebeach.com/dining/1-pico

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Cattle 5-ounce burger 10-ounce burger Bacon burger

CATTLE & CLAW A new SoCal eatery inside Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills satisfies omnivorous appetites with two mouthwatering and complementary dishes: lobsters and burgers. At Cattle & Claw, you’ll find simple yet delicious burgers made with roasted red pepper and garlic mayonnaise; spiced lobster rolls drizzled with a tangy remoulade and served on a homemade bun; lobster beignets with a side of housemade lobster aioli sauce; truffle fries served family style; and much more, all cooked to perfection. Can’t decide between surf and turf? Splurge for the combo with two lobster rolls, two 5-ounce burgers and a whole lobster served with fries and a salad. To pair with your feast are curated cocktails served in a jar (e.g., lobster bloody mary), a selection of approachable wines and an assortment of California craft beers. What you won’t find here: a stuffy attitude. Despite sitting at the heart of the La Cienega’s tony Restaurant Row and serving only the best locally sourced beef and lobster from across the seas, Cattle & Claw welcomes diners with a casual-cool vibe. Reservations recommended. L, D (daily).

Claw Lobster beignet Lobster roll in remoulade sauce Whole lobster Lobster salad Combos Two lobster rolls, two 10-ounce burgers, whole lobster, fries, salad Sides Fries Truffle fries Salad

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 cattleandclaw.com

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RESTAURANTS CITY INDEX OUR SUPERGUIDE BY AREA, WITH CROSS REFERENCE TO LISTINGS BY CUISINE

BEVERLY HILLS

BOTTEGA LOUIE (Italian)..............................64

208 RODEO (California)...................................... 61

BROKEN SPANISH (Mexican/Latin).............66

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD RESTAURANT ROW

TAR & ROSES (California)................................. 62

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British/Irish).... 61

THE BELVEDERE (Mediterranean).............. 66

B.S. TAQUERIA (Mexican/Latin)......................66

THE BAZAAR

CULINA (Italian).................................................... 64

CAFÉ PINOT (French)...........................................63

BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS (Spanish)......................... 67

CUT (Steak)............................................................... 68

DRAGO CENTRO (Italian)................................ 64

CAL MARE (Seafood)........................................... 67

FREDS AT BARNEYS (American).............. 60

THE FACTORY KITCHEN (Italian)............. 64

CATTLE & CLAW (American)........................ 60

GRATITUDE (California)...................................... 61

KATSUYA (Japanese)..............................................65

FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean)........................... 66

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)...... 68

KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French)..............63

MATSUHISA (Japanese)..................................... 65

JEAN-GEORGES

L.A. PRIME (Steak)............................................. 68

MORTON’S

VALENTINO (Italian)...........................................64

SOUTH BAY/LONG BEACH THE ARTHUR J (Steak)........................................... 68 BARAN’S 2239 (California)..................................... 61 DÍA DE CAMPO (Mexican/Latin).........................66 DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 62 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE (Seafood).... 67 ISE-SHIMA (Japanese)......................................... 65

BEVERLY HILLS (California)........................... 62

LE PETIT PARIS (French)...................................63

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)........................... 68

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)......... 68

LIORIENT ASIAN BAR &

NOBU (Japanese)..................................................... 65

MAUDE (California)................................................ 62

RESTAURANT (Chinese)...................................... 62

THE STINKING ROSE (Steak)...................... 68

MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 62

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 66

MALIBU

NATALEE THAI (Thai)...................................... 68

MIRO (Mediterranean)...............................................66

DUKE’S MALIBU (Seafood)............................. 67

SPAGO (California)................................................. 62

MORTON’S

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB (Steak)........... 68

VALLEY

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak).............................68

MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 62

ASANEBO (Japanese).......................................... 65

NICK + STEF’S (Steak)............................................ 68

NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)............................... 65

CASTAWAY (American)..................................... 60

OFFICINE BRERA (Italian)............................64

MARINA DEL REY

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)....... 68

A.O.C. (Mediterranean)......................................... 66

ORSA & WINSTON (Eclectic/Fusion).......... 62

CAFE DEL REY (Seafood)................................ 67

JIMMY’S FAMOUS

BAO DIM SUM (Chinese)................................... 62

PATINA (French)........................................................63

ROC (Chinese)............................................................... 62

AMERICAN TAVERN (American)............... 60

CLEO (Mediterranean)........................................... 66

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL (Quick Bites). 67

BEVERLY BOULEVARD 3RD STREET MELROSE AVENUE

CROSSROADS KITCHEN (Mediterranean).66

PLAN CHECK (American)................................... 60

THE DISTRICT BY

P.Y.T. (American)......................................................... 60

HANNAH AN (Pan-Asian)................................. 66

Q SUSHI (Japanese)..................................................65

GRACIAS MADRE (Mexican/Latin)............. 66

REDBIRD (American)............................................. 60

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)................... 60 THE LITTLE DOOR (French)..........................63 LITTLE NEXT DOOR (French)......................63 LUCQUES (Mediterranean)................................ 66 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................. 64 PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian)........................... 64 PROVIDENCE (Seafood).................................... 67 ROC (Chinese)........................................................... 62 ROSALINÉ (Mexican/Latin).............................. 66 RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE (Steak)...................................... 68 SON OF A GUN (Seafood)............................... 67 TERRONI (Italian)................................................. 64

BRENTWOOD BALTAIRE (Steak)................................................ 68 KATSUYA (Japanese)............................................65 TAVERN (California).............................................. 62

CENTURY CITY CRAFT (American)................................................. 60 DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 62

CULVER CITY AKASHA (California)..................................................... 61

ROSSOBLU (Italian).............................................. 64 TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA RESTAURANT (Japanese)...................................65 TERRONI (Italian)................................................. 64 WP24 (Pan-Asian)......................................................66 YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 62

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE ALIMENTO (Italian)................................................ 64 APL RESTAURANT (Steak)........................... 68 BAROO (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................ 62 BOWERY BUNGALOW (Mediterranean)...66 GWEN (American)..................................................... 60 JITLADA THAI (Thai)...........................................68 KATSUYA (Japanese)..............................................65 MUSSO & FRANK GRILL (Steak).............. 68 NIGHT + MARKET SONG (Thai).................68 OSTRICH FARM (American)............................. 60 PALEY (California)..................................................... 62 PETIT TROIS (French)........................................ 63 SALAZAR (Mexican/Latin)....................................66 TROIS MEC (French).............................................. 64

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 66 LOVE & SALT (California).................................. 62 M.B. POST (American)........................................ 60 SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub).......................................... 61 THE STRAND HOUSE (California).............. 62

RUTH’S CHRIS

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)................... 60

STEAK HOUSE (Steak)...................................... 68

MORTON’S

PASADENA/GLENDALE ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)... 68 DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 62 KATSUYA (Japanese)........................................... 65 MAESTRO (Mexican/Latin)................................. 66 ROY’S (Seafood)...................................................... 67 RUTH’S CHRIS

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)........................... 68 PETIT TROIS (French)........................................ 63 ROY’S (Seafood)...................................................... 67 RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE (Steak)...................................... 68 SADDLE PEAK LODGE (California).......... 62 SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub)........................................... 61 YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 62

STEAK HOUSE (Steak)...................................... 68

VENICE

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 65

FELIX TRATTORIA (Italian)..........................64

UNION (Italian)........................................................64

GJELINA (Mediterranean)................................... 66

YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 62

MTN (Japanese)......................................................... 65

SANTA MONICA

NIGHT + MARKET SAHM (Thai)............... 68

1 PICO (California).................................................... 61

PLANT FOOD + WINE (California)............ 62

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE (Seafood).. 67

SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS (Italian).............64

BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak).......................... 68

SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub).......................................... 61

CASSIA (Eclectic/Fusion)..................................... 62

THE TASTING KITCHEN (California)........ 62

DIALOGUE (California)........................................ 61 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. (Seafood)............. 67 FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub)..................... 61 THE INDEPENDENCE (American)............... 60 JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN (American)............... 60 LA VECCHIA CUCINA (Italian)...................64 LOCANDA DEL LAGO (Italian)................... 64 MÉLISSE (French).................................................. 63

WEST HOLLYWOOD BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak).......................... 68 CECCONI’S (Italian)............................................64 DAN TANA’S (Italian).........................................64 DELILAH (American)........................................... 60 EVELEIGH (California)................................................. 61 KATANA (Japanese).............................................. 65 NIGHT + MARKET (Thai)................................ 68 ROKU (Japanese)..................................................... 65 TESSE RESTAURANT (French)................... 63

FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub).................... 61

LA BREA/MID-CITY

MICHAEL’S (California)....................................... 62

WESTSIDE

LUKSHON (Pan-Asian)........................................ 66

ANIMAL (American)............................................. 60

MILO & OLIVE (California)............................... 62

THE APPLE PAN (Quick Bites).............................66

NATALEE THAI (Thai)...................................... 68

JON & VINNY’S (Italian)..................................64

PLAN CHECK (American)................................ 60

MATTEO’S (Italian)...............................................64

VESPERTINE (Eclectic/Fusion)........................63

ODYS + PENELOPE (American).................. 60

ROBATA BAR (Japanese).................................. 65

PLAN CHECK (American)................................ 60

DOWNTOWN

PINK’S HOT DOGS (Quick Bites).................. 67

RUSTIC CANYON (California)........................ 62

ROC (Chinese)............................................................... 62

71ABOVE (American)............................................. 60

PLAN CHECK (American)................................ 60

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 65

SOTTO (Italian).......................................................64

BESTIA (Italian)......................................................... 64

RÉPUBLIQUE (French)....................................... 63

TALLULA’S (Mexican/Latin).............................. 66

STK (Steak)......................................................................... 68

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LADINING THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak.

The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights.

Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN The JFAT family of restaurants is known for its artisanal approach to American comfort food. Certified green by the Green Restaurants Association, Jimmy’s strives to use locally raised, organic and sustainable ingredients. Enjoy brews, cocktails and wines before indulging in menu highlights such as Jimmy’s signature buttermilk fried chicken, spicy tequila shrimp pasta with charred corn and pepitas, and half-pound, ground New York sirloin burgers. The Santa Monica location is just a few blocks from the pier. Happy hour and weekend brunch menus are available. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica • 424.292.5222 The Village at Westfield Topanga, 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd.

Woodland Hills • 818.369.0005 j-fat.com

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Serving fresh seafood since 1979, Enterprise Fish Co. is housed in a historic brick building that was renovated to resemble the quintessential wharfside eateries found along the Pacific Coast.

Vintage photos of Venice Beach and other seaside locations on the walls set the beachy mood, as does the aquarium you pass by when entering. The restaurant’s open kitchen, set in the middle of the dining room, allows patrons to witness the catch of the day being cooked on a unique mesquite grill. Alternately, diners can eat alfresco on the cozy heated patio. The menu features favorites like wild-caught fish, Maine lobster and king crab legs, but don’t miss the steaks and decadent desserts. It’s no wonder Enterprise Fish Co. was voted locally as the No. 1 seafood restaurant in the area. Daily happy hour 4-7 pm. L, D (daily).

174 Kinney St., Santa Monica 310.392.8366 • enterprisefishcosantamonica.com

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ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL EVENTS ICE PRESENTED BY THE PLAZA AT SANTA MONICA Opening Nov. 3 This 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica brings holiday spirit to the beach. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 Fifth St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199, downtownsm.com Map L8 AFI FEST Nov. 8-15 Presented by Audi, the American Film Institute’s annual film festival offers world-premiere screenings and events in the heart of Hollywood.

On the Basis of Sex opens this year’s fest, and Mary Queen of Scots is the film for the Closing Night Gala. See website for schedule and pass pricing. Tickets available online or at box office. Screenings free. TCL Chinese Theatre Imax, 6925 Hollywood Blvd.; TCL Chinese 6 Theatres, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Third Floor; Egyptian Theatre, 6712 Hollywood Blvd.; The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.234.3378, afi.com/afifest Map H13 L.A. COMEDY FEST Nov. 8-18 Featuring film, live comedy acts and a screenplay competition, this showcase attracts up-and-comers and established comics alike.

Check website for schedule and ticket information.

Let Live Theatre, 916 N. Formosa Ave., L.A., lacomedyfest.com Map I13 THE BAI HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE Opening Nov. 15 Skate among the skyscrapers at this ice-skating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square. See website for hours, skate-session schedule and prices. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 BURBANK WINTER WINE WALK Nov. 17 Burbank kicks off the holiday season with a free Holiday Street Fair featuring vendors, live entertainment, holiday lighting and snowfall from 6:45-8 pm. The Winter Wine Walk offers samples from a roster of world-class wineries and breweries. Holiday Street Fair noon-8 pm; all ages, free. Winter Wine Walk 4-7 pm; 21+, tickets $50, Santa’s VIP Holiday Lounge $75. 301 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, burbankwinterwinewalk.com Map north of T21 TURKEY TROT LOS ANGELES Nov. 22 Spend Thanksgiving morning in downtown L.A., taking in a scenic 5K or 10K route through the area’s historic streets. The race starts at City Hall and takes runners past Grand Park and Walt Disney Concert Hall. There is also a Widdle Wobble 1K for kids. Proceeds benefit charity the Midnight Mission. 5K 8 am; 10K 8:45 am; Widdle Wobble 10 am. $15-$70. 200 N. Spring St., downtown, 310.821.7898, turkeytrot.la Map H17 THE HOLLYWOOD CHRISTMAS PARADE Nov. 25 Welcome the holidays at this annual holiday parade, with a concert beforehand and a celebrity grand marshal. The procession winds through Hollywood and features floats, balloons, characters, marching bands and equestrians. Concert 5 pm; parade 6 pm. Grandstand tickets $32-$85. The route starts on Hollywood Boulevard at Orange Drive and travels east to Vine Street, south on Vine to Sunset Boulevard and west on Sunset, back to Orange. 866.727.2331, thehollywoodchristmasparade.org Map H13

COURTESY COMPLEXCON

THEATER A BRONX TALE Nov. 6-25 This musical incarnation of Chazz Palminteri’s autobiographical one-man play and subsequent film is co-directed by Robert De Niro and features dance numbers and original doo-wop tunes from Beauty and the Beast songwriter Alan Menken. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

/ THE GUIDE

GUIDELINES Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue.

Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX Special Events............75 Studio Tapings............77 Theater........................75 Museums....................77 Music + Dance............75 Shopping Destinations.. 79 Sports..........................76 Nightlife............................80 Attractions..................76 Beaches........................ 80 Studio Tours................77 Tours + Transport.......82

QUACK Through Nov. 18 Having its world premiere here, this new comedy is about a daytime talk show host whose reputation is ruined by a take-down piece of journalism, exploring the fleeting nature of 21st-century fame. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 DEAR EVAN HANSEN Through Nov. 25 The acclaimed Broadway hit—which won six Tonys, including for best musical—arrives in L.A. on its national tour.

The personal and contemporary work follows high school senior Evan Hansen’s misguided attempt to fit in after the death of one of his classmates. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 COME FROM AWAY Opening Nov. 28 This moving musical is set in the week following the Sept. 11 attacks and tells the true story of what transpired when 38 planes carrying 7,000 passengers were ordered to land unexpectedly in a small, welcoming town in Newfoundland. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 WICKED Opening Nov. 28 The Broadway sensation is back by popular demand. Learn the untold story of the witches of Oz, the “wicked” Elphaba and good witch Glinda, in this smash-hit prequel to The Wizard of Oz. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 CHARLES DICKENS’ A CHRISTMAS CAROL All month In this world-premiere adaptation, Tony Award winner Jefferson Mays breathes new life into the classic Christmas tale, turning it into a one-man show in which he plays Scrooge, Bob Cratchit, Tiny Tim et al. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 VALLEY OF THE HEART All month Legendary playwright Luis Valdez (Zoot Suit) is behind this sweeping new epic—set amid the Great Depression and attack on Pearl Harbor—that explores the disconnect between America’s ideals and actions. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

MUSIC + DANCE CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA AT ROYCE HALL Nov. 3-4 Bill T. Jones/Arnie Zane Company: Analogy Trilogy. Nov. 9 Terri Lyne Carrington.

Nov. 10 Joan Baez: Fare Thee Well... Tour 2018. Nov. 16 David Sedaris. Nov. 17 Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir and Tallinn Chamber Orchestra. Nov. 30 Sweet Honey in the Rock. 340 Royce Drive, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Nov. 1, 4, 8, 11 Satyagraha by Philip Glass, L.A. Opera, conductor Grant Gershon, starring Sean Panikkar. In Sanskrit. Nov. 6-7

Pop Culture Power The third-annual ComplexCon takes over the Long Beach Convention Center Nov. 3-4, combining music, streetwear, food and art in a modern-youth-culture extravaganza. Organized by media company Complex Networks and hosted by Pharrell Williams and contemporary artist Takashi Murakami, the event expects to draw 50,000-plus attendees to its marketplace (offering exclusive sneaker drops, collabs and projects from more than 100 brands including Puma and G-Star); First We Feast Lagoon (featuring eateries like Alvin Cailan’s The Burger Show Pop Up and Jon & Vinny’s); music stages (headlined by Future and Rae Sremmurd); Art Zone; and ComplexCon(versations). 11 am (VIP 10 am)-8 pm. $60$300. 300 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, complexcon.com

W The Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum—temporary home of the L.A. Rams—was the first stadium in the world to host the Olympics twice. p. 76 WHERE LOS ANGELES 75

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ENTERTAINMENT conductor Michael Tilson Thomas, mezzo-soprano Measha Brueggergosman. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

SPORTS LOS ANGELES MEMORIAL COLISEUM Nov. 11 Los Angeles Rams vs. Seattle Seahawks. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15

Joni 75: A Birthday Celebration, featuring Glen Hansard, Emmylou Harris, Norah Jones, Chaka Khan, Diana Krall, Kris Kristofferson, Los Lobos, Graham Nash, Seal and Rufus Wainwright. Nov. 17, 25 Hansel and Gretel, L.A. Opera, conductor James Conlon, starring Susan Graham. Nov. 30 George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker.

135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16

STAPLES CENTER Nov. 1 Los Angeles Kings vs. Philadelphia Flyers. Nov. 3 Kings vs. Columbus Blue Jackets.

Nov. 4 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Toronto Raptors. Nov. 5 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Minnesota Timberwolves.

Nov. 6 Kings vs. Anaheim Ducks. Nov. 7 Lakers vs.

Minnesota Timberwolves. Nov. 8 Kings vs. Minnesota Wild. Nov. 10 Clippers vs. Milwaukee Bucks; Kings vs.

Calgary Flames. Nov. 11 Lakers vs. Atlanta Hawks. Nov. 12 Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. Nov. 13 Kings vs.

Toronto Maple Leafs. Nov. 14 Lakers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. Nov. 15 Clippers vs. San Antonio Spurs. Nov. 17 WWE NXT Takeover: War Games. Nov. 18 WWE Survivor Series. Nov. 19 WWE RAW. Nov. 20 WWE Smackdown Live. Nov. 21 Kings vs. Colorado Avalanche. Nov. 23 Clippers vs. Memphis Grizzlies; Lakers vs. Utah Jazz.

Nov. 24 Kings vs. Vancouver Canucks. Nov. 25 Lakers vs. Orlando Magic; Kings vs. Edmonton Oilers. Nov. 28 Clippers vs. Phoenix Suns. Nov. 29 Lakers vs. Indiana Pacers. Nov. 30 Lakers vs. Dallas Mavericks. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

THE FORUM Nov. 2, 21 Ozuna: Aura USA Tour. Nov. 10 Twenty One Pilots: The Bandito Tour. Nov. 11 Alejandro Fernandez & Los Tigres del Norte: Rompiendo Fronteras Tour. Nov. 15 Becoming: An Intimate Conversation With Michelle Obama. Nov. 16 Ghost: A Pale Tour Named Death. Nov. 17 K-Love Live: Las Que Mandan. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12

STUBHUB CENTER Nov. 2 NCAA Women’s Soccer: USC vs. UCLA. Nov. 18 NFL: Los Angeles Chargers vs. Denver Broncos. Nov. 25 Chargers vs. Arizona Cardinals. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15

REDCAT Nov. 1 Margaret Leng Tan. Nov. 3 The 2018 Eyeworks Festival of Experimental Animation. Nov. 5 Raha Raissnia: Expanded Film Performances. Nov. 9-10 Carmina Escobar: Pura Entraña. Nov. 12 Vivian Ostrovsky: L’humour du geste. Nov. 15-17 Kaneza Schaal: JACK &. Nov. 29-30 Ellen Reid: p r i s m. 631 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.237.2800 Map H16

AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea otters and 11,000 other animals.

Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16

STAPLES CENTER Nov. 2 So So Def 25th Cultural Curren$y Tour. Nov. 9 Russ: I See You Tour Part 2. Nov. 27 Justin Timberlake. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15 THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL Nov. 5 Lea Michele and Darren Criss. Nov. 6 The Milk Carton Kids. Nov. 17 Snap Judgment—LIVE in L.A. Presented by KPCC in Person.

Nov. 18 CAP UCLA presents: UnCabaret: 25th Anniversary Show & Celebration. Nov. 21 Cat Power. Nov. 29-30 Iliza: Elder Millennial Tour. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Nov. 1-4 Mälkki, Reich & Mahler, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Susanna Mälkki. Nov. 4 L’Arpeggiata, featuring musical director Christina Pluhar, sopranos Céline Scheen and Vincenzo Capezzuto, dancer Anna Dego. Nov. 8-10 The Tempest, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Susanna Mälkki, the Old Globe, director Barry Edelstein. Nov. 11 West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, featuring conductor Daniel Barenboim, cellist Kian Soltani. Nov. 13 European Avant-Garde, featuring LA Phil New Music Group, conductor Susanna Mälkki, baritone Sean Michael Plumb, organist Francesco Filidei. Nov. 16, 18 Cameron Carpenter Plays Saint-Saëns, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Roderick Cox. Nov. 17 Fluxus: Fluxconcert, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Christopher Rountree, director R. B. Schlather, Roomful of Teeth. Nov. 18 Bach’s Magnificat, featuring artistic director Grant Gershon, composer Reena Esmail. Nov. 23-25 Stanley Kubrick’s Sound Odyssey, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Jessica Cottis, Los Angeles Master Chorale, Grant Gershon.

Nov. 24 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: Brahms and His First Symphony, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Elena Schwarz. Nov. 28 Music 101: A Symphonic Spectacular, featuring KUSC’s Alan Chapman. Nov. 30 “Pathétique” With MTT, featuring L.A. Philharmonic,

ATTRACTIONS

BARNSDALL ART PARK Features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: ThSu 11 am-4 pm. Hollyhock House tours $3-$7. 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031 Map W22 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Explore the missile decks, bridge, mess areas and captain’s cabin. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest, the Japanese Garden and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm. $4$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean, Space Mountain and updated Star Tours. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $97-$135, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781.

Historic buildings, 11 of which are open to the public, include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17

GRAND PARK Urban park positioned between the Music Center and City Hall offers draws such as a farmers market and community entertainment. Daily 5:30 am-10 pm. Free. Entrances at 200 N. Grand Ave., 221 N. Hill St., 221 N. Broadway and 227 N. Spring St., downtown, 213.972.8080 Map H17 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft (formerly Club Nokia), restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction.

Find over 125 figures including celebrities, pop icons, actors and actresses, 4-D and VR adventures and more.

Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Tours, shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen and Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood.

Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20

MATTHEW MURPHY

Dear Evan Hansen at the Ahmanson Theatre. p. 75

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ATTRACTIONS UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the brand-new multisensory attraction DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda; The Wizarding World of Harry Potter; and Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem and adjacent Super Silly Fun Land. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D, film and TV sets. Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservations recommended.

See paramountstudiotour.com for schedules. Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under 16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $45, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11

Travel Back in Time to 79 A.D. • Experience life in the bustling, ancient Roman city of Pompeii • Marvel at nearly 200 precious artifacts, lost for nearly 2,000 years • Relive the massive power of Mt. Vesuvius in 4D Eruption Theatre

40 Presidential Drive • Simi Valley, CA 93065 • ReaganLibrary.com

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. Parking $12. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live! and The Voice. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW that are produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang Theory and Man With a Plan. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com THE ELLEN DEGENERES SHOW Free tickets to taping of comedian’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent. Day-of tickets, call before noon; advance tickets, go to ellen.warnerbros.com/tickets. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20 ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

MUSEUMS

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native WHERE LOS ANGELES 77

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ATTRACTIONS American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free.

Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, with an emphasis on California and the western United States. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for King Tut: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh and Imax varies. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm.

Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13

LA ZOO LA ZOO LIGHTS N I 16 G –HJAN T L 6Y NIGHTLY NOV LIGHTS NOV 27–JAN 3

“L.A.’S BRIGHTEST HOLIDAY TRADITION.”

*

N I G HDISCOUNT T LY SPECIAL

on L.A. Zoo Lights admission NOV 27–JAN 3

for WHERE Magazine readers!

Purchase online with code 18TTZL

Get your tickets today at LAZooLights.org

Discount on online purchase only.

Not valid for daytime admission. *Closed November 22, December 24, and December 25.

See Los Angeles.

Cheers to the Holidays.

9/26/2018

Los Angeles Zoo

File prep: Miss Cecilia

323-336-2596

Pub: Disney The Line Color: CMYK

PMS: None

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HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21

Get in the holiday swing with a festive lunch, brunch or dinner cruise. Whichever your pleasure, you’ll enjoy our celebrated cuisine, outstanding service, and the most remarkable views in town.

LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13

Visit Hornblower.com or call 310-301-9900 for reservations.

LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus.

M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building. Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm.

INDULGENT DINING. BREATHTAKING VIEWS. FESTIVE SPIRITS.

NEWPORT BEACH MARINA DEL REY LONG BEACH SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK

@HornblowerLA @HornblowerSoCa @HornblowerCruises

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InspIre HumanIty tHrougH trutH Los angeLes museum of tHe HoLocaust

admission always free.

100 the grove Drive Los angeles, ca 90036 www.lamoth.org

SHOPPING Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities. GA, GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm (GC closed through Nov. 11). PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. GA and GC: $8-$15, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, human-rights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of newly expanded and renovated vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted.

6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

SHOPPING THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Kate Spade, & Other Stories and Toms are among the 90 or so stores. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Cal Mare, Farmhouse, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Pitchoun! and Eggslut. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and Elizabeth and James and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (creator of the Cronut), all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market.

189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (Magasin, The Edit by Freda Salvador + Janessa Leoné, Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. Dining WHERE LOS ANGELES 79

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BEACHES options include Hayden and Loqui Taco. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11

Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8

THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 1850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13

COVELL Intimate Los Feliz neighborhood wine bar from restaurateur Dustin Lancaster of L&E Oyster Bar. 4628 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.660.4400 Map W23

SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Chan Luu and Barneys New York, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Bottega Veneta, Céline, Chanel, Chloé, Gucci, plus new Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6 THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Converse, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options curated by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Petrossian, Porsche Design, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Spanx) in LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldairports.com/lax Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

NIGHTLIFE 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. Newer concept the Chapel at the Abbey is adjacent. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. 213 Hospitality’s Arts District brewery and tasting room with classic bar games and an outdoor patio. 828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887 Map I17 BASEMENT TAVERN Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469 Map M8 BIGFOOT LODGE Kitschy log-cabin-themed watering hole. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., L.A., 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11 BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment (Break-dancing? Moonwalking? Check and check). 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont

DOHENY ROOM Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group offers a diverse menu by Cleo chef Danny Elmaleh. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12 HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar from the 1933 Group. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13 LA DESCARGA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservations recommended. Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12 THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservations-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope is hidden in the back and features premium whiskeys. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13 UPSTAIRS Bar with stunning city views atop Ace Hotel, in the historic United Artists Building. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16

BEACHES DOCKWEILER STATE BEACH 3.7 miles of ocean frontage and 255 acres of beach near LAX. Bonfires permitted. 12501 Vista del Mar, Playa del Rey Map C1 EL MATADOR STATE BEACH One of the prettiest beaches in L.A. County. Steep stairs lead to 18 acres of narrow beach with scenic rock formations. 32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH 167-acre beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider Beach, the Adamson House and a museum that highlights the area’s history. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is dotted with beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring a small aquarium and a café. 400-4500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 POINT DUME BEACH Cliffs border the beach, one of the most beautiful along the L.A. coastline. 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu Map northwest of K9 SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH Wide, sandy expanses divided by Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8

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TOURS + TRANSPORT VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions.

The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” 2700-3100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9 ZUMA BEACH The ultimate SoCal beach. Food stands at each end of its 4-mile expanse along PCH. Beach wheelchairs available. 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K7

TOURS + TRANSPORT AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium allows guests to visit the field, dugout and more. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9

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METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net

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METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties.

Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day, as well as tours to beaches, theme parks and more.

The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip, brought to life with videos from TMZ’s on-air stories and the occasional star sighting. See website for pickup locations, hours and prices. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

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18 Milla Chocolates’ popular Hazelnut Praliné Bar. p. 9

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Panoramic skyline views at sunset from Oue Skyspace LA in the U.S. Bank Tower. p. 76

Holiday spirit and skating by the ocean at Ice at Santa Monica’s outdoor rink. p. 75

Fried butterball potatoes at chef David Chang’s Majordomo, near Chinatown. 323.545.4880

The Tea Trolley 900 from the Artek + Heath limitededition collection. p. 10

The Desert Flip, one of the new fall cocktails at Ostrich Farm in Echo Park. 213.537.0657

Carne-asada fries and tacos on fresh flour tortillas at Frogtown’s Salazar. salazarla.com

The Morrissey-headlined Tropicalia Fest, Nov. 3-4 at Long Beach’s Queen Mary Events Park. tropicaliafest.com

Gourmet grub at The Fields L.A., adjacent to Banc of California Stadium. 213.419.9465

Paella, potato churros and gin tonics at Spanish restaurant Otoño in Highland Park.

323.474.6624

Craft cocktails and eclectic cuisine at Bar Garcia, in downtown’s Tuck Hotel. 213.947.3815

Tony-winning musical Dear Evan Hansen, playing at the Ahmanson through Nov. 25. p. 75

Feeling transported to Tulum, Mexico, with a massage at local chain The Now. 323.922.6007

Hard-to-find vinos at wine store Boutellier, adjacent to Tesse Restaurant. 310.294.8115

Authentic New York pizza at Roberta’s newly opened permanent spot at Platform. p. 79

Date night at stylish Apotheke, in Chinatown. p. 14

L.A. illustrator Tuesday Bassen’s boutique. 213.278.0210

Upscale shopping and dining at new lifestyle center Palisades Village. 310.525.1380

Immersive exhibition WDCH

Dreams, running inside the Walt Disney Concert Hall’s Ira Gershwin Gallery all season long. p. 76 Free screenings and world premieres at the 32nd annual AFI Fest, Nov. 8-15. p. 75 Los Angeles Ballet’s festive

Beautiful blowouts at brandnew Drybar at the Commons at Calabasas. 530.285.0275

Fluffy frittatas at Pasadena’s new Superba Snacks + Coffee.

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Nutcracker Tea at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, Nov. 17-18.

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Pumpkin-spice-crunch ice cream at Four Winters, on West 3rd Street. p. 9

Girl power at femaleowned bars Genever and The Mermaid. p. 18

Lavender- and rose-infused cocktails at stunning new bar The Wolves, downtown. p. 14

where in the world

WHERE is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Anine Bing’s perfect-forfall Dylan coat, paired with hats from her collaboration with Janessa Leoné. p. 10 The Big Mec burger at Ludo Lefebvre’s French bistro, Petit Trois, new to the Valley. p. 21 Project Blue Boy, the Huntington’s exhibition about conserving Thomas Gainsborough’s famous work. p. 78 Chili dogs and pulled-pork sandwiches at chef Adam Perry Lang’s APL Hole in the Wall takeout window. 323.416.1280

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