Where Traveler Los Angeles, October 2019

LOs AngeLes Oct

2019

design destinations you’ll dig spooky sights and seasonal delights michelinstarred dining

Center Stage

this fall, Los Angeles’ world-class visual and performing arts venues step into the spotlight

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OCt 2019

contents Departments Hot Dates 6 Where Now 8 Maps 75 30 Things We Love 80

COLLECTION

OCT

2019

DESIGN DESTINATIONS YOU’LL DIG SPOOKY SIGHTS AND SEASONAL DELIGHTS MICHELINSTARRED DINING ©Photograph: Laurent Ballesta/Gombessa Project

Entremet mignardise at Maude

12

on the

LOS ANGELES

Fifty Fathoms

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CENTER STAGE

This fall, Los Angeles’ world-class visual and performing arts venues step into the spotlight

Dove Cameron (left) in L.A. Opera’s The Light in the Piazza

cover

Downtown’s newly renovated Music Center Plaza. See p. 62.

Photo by Tim Street-Porter

features

12 Autumn Arts

Los Angeles continues to shine as a capital for arts and culture. This month, find A-listers performing in our theaters; cutting-edge works on display in our museums and galleries; and world-class music, opera and dance on our stages. By Briggs Hatton

The guide 52 62 64 70

70 Nightlife Entertainment 72 Beaches Attractions 74 Explore Dining

Shopping

17 Stellar Dining

The 2019 Michelin Guide California—Michelin Guide’s first-ever statewide edition in the U.S. and its first red guide to include Los Angeles in a decade—bestows 30 stars on 24 local restaurants. Can you say bucket list? By Suzanne ennis C o nnect w i th u s o nl i ne socalpulse . com

from top: dylan + Jeni; dewynters, london

city tours 21 Beverly Hills 22 Santa Monica 26 West Hollywood 30 Hollywood 34 Downtown 38 The Valley 42 Pasadena 44 South Bay 48

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HOT DATES

Great Pumpkins

OCTOBER

EVENTS Opening Oct. 10 For family-friendly Halloween fun, check out Pumpkin Nights, an interactive, multisensory experience at the Fairplex in Pomona that boasts over 3,000 hand-carved real and synthetic pumpkins created by master artists.

First, enter the Pumpkin Passage—a tunnel lined with 600 jack-o’lanterns—then continue on a magical quest through seven enchanting Pumpkin Lands.

You’ll also find seasonal treats, a pumpkin patch, a fire show and other attractions. pumpkinnights.com

SPOOKY THINGS THIS MONTH HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at SoCalPulse.com

Opening Oct. 11 Stroll and sip cocktails while exploring an eerie mansion.

The immersive experience is based on the final days of Spanish painter Francisco Goya. houseofspiritsla.com

FALL FESTIVAL Oct. 12-13

The Original Farmers Market’s oldest annual tradition is back with seasonal fun, live music, a petting zoo and a pie-eating contest. p. 66

CINESPIA

Oct. 19, 27 The popular outdoor film series hosts spooky screen-

ings of The Sixth Sense and The Texas Chainsaw Massacre at Hollywood Forever Cemetery. p. 62

PSYCHO—LIVE WITH ORCHESTRA

Oct. 25-27, 30-31 The L.A. Opera Orchestra plays Bernard Herrmann’s score live to film at the Theatre at Ace Hotel. On Oct. 26, stay late for a Hitchcock Halloween bash. p. 64

HALLOWEEN ORGAN & FILM Oct. 31

Organist Clark Wilson provides a live soundtrack to 1923’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame at Walt Disney Concert Hall. p. 64

WEST HOLLYWOOD HALLOWEEN CARNAVAL Oct. 31

Hundreds of thousands of wildly costumed revelers turn out for this street party, which features live music, DJ sets and dancing. p. 62

HALLOWEEN HORROR NIGHTS All month

At Universal Studios’ megapopular attraction, step inside the worlds of Stranger Things, Us and other scary shows and movies. p. 66

HAUS OF CREEP All month

This year’s edition of A-list favorite Creep is a clever “Instagram playground of

terror” with shocking scenes and intimate scares at Row DTLA. creepla.com

LOS ANGELES HAUNTED HAYRIDE All month

Groups of scare-seekers pile into the back of a tractor to be paraded through Griffith Park’s Old Zoo at this annual event, which has been completely reimagined with new attractions this year. p. 62

THE QUEEN MARY’S 10TH DARK HARBOR All month

The historic, haunted ocean liner becomes a playground of terrifying mazes, monsters, rides, live entertainment and secret bars. p. 66

COURTESY PUMPKIN NIGHTS

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HOUSE OF SPIRITS: A HAUNTED COCKTAIL SOIREE

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Manet_

Jeanne (Spring) (detail), 1881, Édouard Manet. Oil on canvas. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Text and design © 2019 J. Paul Getty Trust

Manet

and Modern Beauty

October 8, 2019– January 12, 2020 at the Getty

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WHERE NOW OCTOBER

DINING/SHOPPING

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Back on the Block Fia, a new dining destination occupying the longtime Wilshire Restaurant address, is a homecoming of sorts for Brendan Collins.

Seasoned restaurateur Michael Greco tapped the English chef—who received accolades at Mélisse, Waterloo & City, Birch and, most recently, Wilshire itself—to helm the kitchen at Fia as well. This time around, the menu is influenced by the California and Amalfi coasts—meaning lots of fresh, local produce and seafood. Standout dishes include grilled corn with truffled mascarpone and brown-butter truffle sauce; hand-cut capel-

lini topped with lobster Bolognese, basil and San Marzano tomato; and the massive seven-day Flannery Beef shank served with pickled vegetables and piadina bread. Cocktails (like those pictured here) are courtesy of L.A.’s “Godfather of Cocktails,” Vincenzo Marianella, and the list of Italian, French and Californian wines is overseen by Tara John (formerly of Wally’s Beverly Hills). Everything is presented in an inviting indoor/outdoor space that boasts one of the prettiest patios in town. 2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.1707, fiarestaurant.com

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From left: Jen Stark’s reversible totes at LA Original; Poketo Project Space at Row DTLA

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY JEN STARK; BECCA MENICHETTI FOR POKETO; ERIC STAUDENMAIER FOR KNOLL. OPPOSITE: MICHAEL GRECCO

DESIGN DESTINATIONS As a magnet for some of the most innovative designers in the world, Los Angeles is full of shops and showrooms that showcase the endless imagination of its residents. Awe-inspiring furniture showrooms, L.A.-maker-dedicated pop-ups, a vintage lover’s paradise and other specialty stores offer items big and small that capture the spirit of L.A. design. —By Teena Apeles SALVARE GOODS We can’t say enough what a wonder this store is. Its collection of beautifully staged vintage furnishings delight, but the real pleasure here is the treasure hunt. Visitors are invited to scour every inch of the main space and small back warehouse. Architectural salvage, exquisite furniture pieces and an array of items from your childhood lost and found greet you everywhere you turn. Don’t miss the opportunity to open drawers and dig through boxes; you’ll be charmed by what you might find. 2439 Riverside Drive, Frogtown, 323.486.7785, instagram.com/salvaregoods NEWMADE LA Great, affordable design? Yes, there is such a thing, and you can find it at this showroom inside Amsterdam Modern, located in a warehouse in creative neighborhood Echo Park.

Everyday items get a midcentury spin here, including a brass geometric toilet-paper holder and a triangle wall planter.

Pair a piece with Amsterdam Modern’s vintage midcenturymodern furniture, sourced from all corners of Holland.

134 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park, 213.221.7380, newmadela.com

LA ORIGINAL AT LAX For gifts that truly embody the city’s relaxed yet upbeat vibe, look no further than the LA Original pop-up stores at terminals 1 and 4 at LAX. Find a wide range of L.A.-branded products by local makers, such as ultracool men’s accessories by Pocket Square Clothing and home decor by Wolfum, Concrete Geometric and Made by DWC (Downtown Women’s Center).

Most of LA Original’s offerings are produced in the city as well, and each purchase comes with the added feel-good benefit of supporting creative entrepreneur programs. Los Angeles International Airport, 1 World Way, L.A.: Terminal 1 (Southwest Airlines), 424.200.0148; and Terminal 4 (Tom Bradley International Terminal), 424.200.0009, laoriginal.com

THE HÄNGAR For a mix of contemporary furniture and rare threads, head west to the Hängar’s massive, 7,000-square-foot design space (it’s housed in an actual hangar). You can spend the day drifting from one beautifully curated dream “room” to another; the looks range from industrially inclined to boho-inspired.

Along with an exciting mix of furnishings, you’ll find artwork by such local talent as Betzi Stein and Kit Plumridge, plus a vintage-clothing annex by Lulu Vintage Flippin. 2408 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.392.6111, thehangarla.com

Colorful chairs at Knoll

POKETO Joyous items for your home and life—bursting with bright colors and patterns—await at Poketo, which also hosts monthly workshops that cultivate creativity.

This month’s lineup: Oct. 5, “Photoshop 101 with Puno” of ilovecreatives, at the store’s Line Hotel location, and, on Oct. 26, “Painting with Natural Dyes” with Liz Spencer of Dogwood Dyer, at Poketo Project Space at Row DTLA. While you’re there, don’t forget to pick up the founders’ new book, Creative Spaces, which explores the lives and spaces of, you guessed it, creatives. The Line Hotel, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., Koreatown, 213.381.7411; Row DTLA, 777 S. Alameda St., #174, downtown, 213.372.5686, poketo.com KNOLL LOS ANGELES HOME DESIGN SHOP Sure, Knoll has its flagship location in New York, but the way its L.A. outpost’s modern furnishings are presented reflects a very Southern California attitude: welcoming and laid-back.

The shop is located on Robertson Boulevard, and its coveted designer furniture—such as Eero Saarinen chairs and Warren Platner tables—is fitting for the celebrity clientele who live in the neighborhood. 314 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.620.2680, knoll.com WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 9

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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O I N H I G H L A N D PA R K , V I S I T S O C A L P U L S E . C O M

ONE BLOCK THINGS TO DO IN

HIGHLAND PARK

DO

EAT

DRINK

SHOP

Highland Park has become one of the city’s hottest ’hoods, and Figueroa Street boasts a bevy of draws. Bowl a strike at Highland Park Bowl, a stunningly restored 1927 alley. Catch the latest flicks at Highland Theatres, and concerts across the street at Lodge Room.

And get your Zen on with a class at Kinship Yoga.

Fill up on tapas and paella at Spain-meets-L.A. restaurant Otoño. James Beard Award winners Nancy Silverton and Matt Molina serve up slices at Triple Beam Pizza, and Molina’s Hippo is next door. Vegans will love Kitchen Mouse and Burgerlords. And Café Birdie is a cute neighborhood bistro serving California cuisine.

Good Housekeeping is a cozy cocktail bar tucked behind Café Birdie. The midcentury-meetsindustrial ETA offers excellent drinks and food. At Gold Line Bar, hear tunes from DJ Peanut Butter Wolf’s record collection. In the morning, get your caffeine fix at Go Get Em Tiger, Kindness & Mischief Coffee or Civil Coffee.

Minimalist shop Sonomama is inspired by the Japanese wabi-sabi philosophy. Skater fave The Quiet Life sells hats and tees. For vintage duds, head to The Bearded Beagle. Stock up on vinyl at New York transplant Gimme Gimme Records. And browse new and vintage books and magazines at edgy new bookshop Owl Bureau.

Highland Park Bowl highlandparkbowl.com

Highland Theatres highlandtheatres.com

Lodge Room lodgeroomhlp.com

Kinship Yoga kinshipyoga.com

Otoño otonorestaurant.com

Triple Beam Pizza triplebeampizza.com

Hippo hipporestaurant.com

Kitchen Mouse kitchenmousela.com

Burgerlords burgerlords.com

Café Birdie cafebirdiela.com

Good Housekeeping goodhousekeepinghlp.com

ETA etahlp.com

Gold Line Bar goldlinebar.com

Go Get Em Tiger gget.com

Kindness & Mischief Coffee kandmcoffee.com

Civil Coffee civilcoffee.com

Sonomama shopsonomama.com

The Quiet Life thequietlife.com

The Bearded Beagle thebeardedbeagle.com

Gimme Gimme Records gimmegimmerecords.com

Owl Bureau chandeliercreative.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID BENJAMIN SHERRY; WONHO FRANK LEE (2); DYLAN + JENI

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Owl Bureau; the lanes at Highland Park Bowl; paella at Otoño; drinks and tunes at Gold Line Bar

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It’s no secret that L.A. boasts an embarrassment of artistic and cultural riches. In recent years, the city has continually restaked its claim as one of the top-notch artsand-culture capitals of the world. A one-man show performed by the world’s foremost clown, a Snapchat-infused immersive art installation and an abstract ballet performed by a legendary St. Petersburg dance troupe are among the enriching array of sights and experiences awaiting art lovers of all types this fall. by Briggs Hatton Theater & Performance

L

From top: A Day’s Notice Iris by Carole Kim, part of Descanso Gardens’ Shine a Light; Idina Menzel, starring in Skintight at the Geffen Playhouse; Bill Irwin in his one-man show On Beckett at the Kirk Douglas. Opposite: Lari Pittman, Untitled #4, 2003, on view at the Hammer Museum

os Angeles’ largest nonprofit theater, Center Theatre Group, has kicked off an exciting 20192020 season at its three simultaneously running theaters: downtown’s Mark Taper Forum and Ahmanson Theatre, and the Kirk Douglas Theatre in Culver City. The season began with A Play Is a Poem (running through Oct. 13 at the Taper), a new collection of five short plays by Ethan Coen, half of the darkly comedic directing duo behind such movies as No Country for Old Men (p. 64). Meanwhile, On Beckett plays at the Kirk Douglas through Oct. 27 (p. 64). Created and performed by renowned actor and clown Bill Irwin, this playful 90-minute show explores Irwin’s relationship with the writings of Nobel Prize-winning existentialist playwright Samuel Beckett. Head over to the Ahmanson Theatre for two critically acclaimed one-man shows direct from New York: John Leguizamo’s Latin History for Morons—a wild and irreverent show inspired by the actor’s frustration at the lack of Latin heroes in his son’s history book—runs through Oct. 20 (p. 64). Then, starting Oct. 23, comedian and storyteller Mike Birbiglia’s The New One mines his personal life with an off-kilter blend of humor and heart (p. 64).

Westwood’s acclaimed Geffen Playhouse continues its star-studded season with two shows this month.

Until Oct. 12, you can catch Tony Award winner Idina Menzel in Skintight, a new comedy by playwright Joshua Harmon brimming with neurotic family dysfunction (p. 62). And, opening Oct. 22, satiric comedy The Thanksgiving Play asks the question: What’s the appropriately “woke” way to teach children about

the first Thanksgiving (p. 64)?

If you’re looking for bigger, Broadway-style spectacles, the Hollywood Pantages is definitely your speed.

There, the playfully offbeat Blue Man Group has brought its popular new tour to L.A. It wraps up Oct. 6 to make way for the adventure-filled new musical Anastasia (Oct. 8-27), followed by the 50th anniversary tour of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s award-winning rock opera Jesus Christ Superstar, opening Oct. 29 (pp. 62-64).

But these shows are just a small sampling of the city’s strong theater offerings this month. Beverly Hills’ Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts hosts the West Coast premiere of Sisters in Law (playing through Oct. 13), a play about the first two female SCOTUS justices, and across town, the Pasadena Playhouse is running the deviously funny, botanical sci-fi musical Little Shop of Horrors through Oct. 20 (p. 64).

Art & Museums

O

ur city’s fine arts scene has never been stronger, and October boasts an unbeatable range of gallery and museum exhibitions. Housed in a former flour mill in downtown’s hip Arts District, Hauser & Wirth gallery has two large-scale shows running: Charles Gaines. Palm Trees and Other Works unveils new works inspired by SoCal’s native flora from a revered L.A. artist and educator. Meanwhile, Resilience: Philip Guston in 1971 is the first solo show in half a century dedicated to the renowned Guston, and includes figurative paintings and narrative satirical drawings inspired by U.S. social upheaval in the titular year (901 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.943.1620, hauserwirth.com).

from top: courtesy descanso gardens; Yann Rabanier; Carol Rosegg. Opposite: Private collection © Lari Pittman, courtesy Regen Projects, Los Angeles

Autumn Arts

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exploring its wide-ranging influence on all things art, design and architecture. And, through Oct. 28 at the seaside Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades, Buried by Vesuvius: Treasures From the Villa dei Papiri sheds light on rare artifacts from an ancient Roman villa that was buried when Mount Vesuvius erupted in A.D. 79.

On Oct. 5, the Annenberg Space for Photography opens its timely exhibit W|ALLS: Defend, Divide, and the Divine—a historical look at civilization’s multifaceted relationship with walls and borders (p. 66). You can get into the Halloween spirit starting Oct. 10 at Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County with Natural History of Horror, an exhibition exploring the links between scientific discoveries and cinema’s most iconic monsters—such as Dracula, the Mummy, Frankenstein and the Creature From the Black Lagoon (p. 68).

Through a Different Lens: Stanley Kubrick Photographs starts Oct. 17 at Skirball Cultural Center and delves into the famed film director’s early formative years as a photojournalist with Look magazine (p. 70). At the Hammer Museum in nearby Westwood Village, Lari Pittman: Declaration of Independence is a comprehensive, four-decade retrospective of an L.A.-centric painter’s output (p. 68). Meanwhile, San Marino’s bucolic Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens premieres Nineteen Nineteen, an exhibition celebrating the centennial of the institute’s founding

clockwise from top left: Natasha Razina © state academic mariinsky theatre; Ikko Freese/Drama_Berlin.de; © Charles Gaines, Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth,

Clockwise from top left: Mariinsky Ballet dancers Nadezhda Batoeva and Kimin Kim performing Rubies; a scene from the Komische Oper Berlin production of La Bohème; Numbers and Trees: Palm Canyon, Palm Trees Series 2, Tree #1, Cahuilla (Detail) 2019, by Charles Gaines, on display at Hauser & Wirth; a poster for 1932’s The Mummy and actor Boris Karloff in his Frankenstein makeup and costume, both from Natural History of Horror at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

On view at the picturesque, photo-op-friendly LACMA through Oct. 14 is the U.S. premiere of Christian Marclay: Sound Stories, an immersive audiovisual experience utilizing Snapchat footage. (If you missed Marclay’s fascinating LACMA display The Clock a few years back, be sure and catch this one!) Also currently on view, Thomas Joshua Cooper: The World’s Edge invites you to bask in stunning, large-scale black-and-white nature photography by the California-born artist (p. 68). Meanwhile, Shirin Neshat: I Will Greet the Sun Again, opening Oct. 19 at The Broad, is the largest exhibition of the Iranian visual artist’s 30-year career to date (p. 66). Over 200 photographs and eight video works explore themes of exile, displacement and identity with groundbreaking formal daring.

The J. Paul Getty Center’s two beautiful museum locations—the Getty Center (p. 66) and the Getty Villa (p. 68)—both call for an autumn excursion. At the Getty Center, In Focus: The Camera explores the evolution of the device through historical photographs and a selection of antique cameras from the 19th century to the present. Complementing it nicely, Once. Again.

Photographs in Series centers on historic and contemporary photographic artists who have each revisited people or places in a series of work. And Bauhaus Beginnings (on view through Oct. 13) marks the 100th anniversary of the famed German school of art,

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Photo: Fredrik Nilsen; Courtesy Universal Studios Licensing LLC (2). This page, From top: collection of the artist © Thomas Joshua Cooper, photo courtesy the artist; courtesy L.A. Opera

clockwise from top left: Natasha Razina © state academic mariinsky theatre; Ikko Freese/Drama_Berlin.de; © Charles Gaines, Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth,

and showcasing some 275 of its collections’ objects from that pivotal year in world history (p. 68). And at the also-lovely Descanso Gardens’ Sturt Haaga Gallery, interdisciplinary artist Carole Kim unveils digital metal prints and micro-video projections, as well as sitespecific installations throughout the gardens, in Shine a Light, open through Oct. 27 (p. 66).

Music & Dance

I

n addition to all the plays and paintings, this month has lots more to watch and listen to at L.A.’s dynamic music and dance institutions. At the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Los Angeles Philharmonic will host its Centennial Birthday Celebration Concert & Gala on Oct. 24 (p. 64). Marking the 100th anniversary to the day of the L.A. Phil’s very first performance, this unique evening will feature classical waltz, ballet score and symphony pieces as only the L.A. Phil can deliver. What’s more, Gustavo Dudamel, Zubin Mehta and Esa-Pekka Salonen will all three be conducting. In the same concert hall complex, at REDCAT, the 11th annual Angel City Jazz Festival showcases a program of cutting-edge, innovative, West Coast-centric jazz from Oct. 3-5 (p. 64).

Closing Oct. 6 at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, L.A. Opera’s new interpretation of the sweeping, romantic Puccini opera La Bohème will be followed by

the multi-Tony-winning musical The Light in the Piazza, playing Oct. 12-20. Also at the Dorothy Chandler, St. Petersburg’s visiting Mariinsky Ballet presents George Balanchine’s Jewels—a 1967 landmark considered to be the first great work of abstract ballet—from Oct. 24-27 (p. 64). And, just in time for Halloween, L.A.-based American Contemporary Ballet’s Inferno & Burlesque, opening Oct. 4, offers an evening of gothic-tinged, original ballet at its downtown theater (p. 64).

From top: Thomas Joshua Cooper, The North Atlantic Ocean, Home Strand Beach, Labrador, Canada, 2011, on view at LACMA; Dove Cameron and Renée Fleming in L.A. Opera’s The Light in the Piazza

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Get your

glam on

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STELLA R D I N I N G Last spring, Michelin bestowed a constellation of stars on Greater Los Angeles restaurants in its inaugural Michelin Guide California. The revelation broadcast globally what locals and savvy travelers already knew: The City of Angels is a world-class dining destination.

JILL PAIDER PHOTOGRAPHY

by SUZANNE ENNIS

Shiso tartare topped with borage flowers at Somni

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Chef Jon Yao of Kato.

Left: The restaurant’s spot prawns and peas

Around the turn of the 20th century, French tire tycoons the Michelin brothers began publishing travel tips and hospitality recommendations to entice motorists to hit the road. Few would have guessed that the promotional gimmick would go on to wield enormous power in the fine-dining world.

Today, however, the Michelin Guide rates more than 30,000 establishments across 80 countries, and a rating in the prestigious red guide—especially in the form of one, two or three stars—is an internationally recognized symbol of a restaurant’s excellence.

So it was with great fanfare that this past June, at a live ceremony in Huntington Beach, international director of the Michelin Guides Gwendal Poullennec announced the venerable company’s selections for the 2019 Michelin Guide California—its first-ever statewide guide in the U.S., launched in partnership with Visit California, which expanded the selections in this year’s San Francisco edition. Ninety restaurants from Wine Country to San Diego, including 24 in Greater L.A., received one or more stars. “This unprecedented expansion of the Michelin Guide gives full credit to California and its leading role as a culinary powerhouse,“ Poullennec told the assembled journalists and chefs.

L.A.’s inclusion marked the first time Michelin visited California’s most populous county since 2009, when, amid the recession, it ceased publication of its L.A. guide after a two-year run. The timing proved

unlucky. “When Michelin left L.A. 10 years ago, they left a city whose dining scene was about to explode,“ says Michael Cimarusti, 2019 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: West and owner/chef of two-starred Hollywood restaurant Providence. In the years that followed, the culinary culture in L.A. blossomed to a point where Michelin’s absence was conspicuous. “Now that Michelin is back, they will find a city with a monstrous dining scene—the pace of expansion here in L.A. has been remarkable,“ says Cimarusti. “I don’t envy the inspectors tasked with trying to keep up with it all.“ Providence is one of just six restaurants in L.A.’s vast, varied and boundary-pushing dining scene that earned two stars in the new California guide. Also in the two-star

Kali chef/ co-owner Kevin Meehan

category are chef Niki Nakayama’s seasonal kaiseki restaurant, n/naka; chefs Aitor Zabala and José Andrés’ intimate tasting-menu concept, Somni, inside the Bazaar by José Andrés at SLS Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Beverly Hills; the West Coast location of Edomae sushi restaurant Sushi Ginza Onodera (whose NYC location also boasts two Michelin stars); chef Hiroyuki Urasawa’s eponymous sushi restaurant, Urasawa; and Vespertine, from Alinea and French Laundry alum chef Jordan Kahn.

Of the six two-starred restaurants, four didn’t exist a decade ago. The other two— Providence and Urasawa—were also recognized in both the 2008 and 2009 guides.

“For me, retaining our stars was a validation of the fact that we have maintained our standards over the 10 years that the guide was absent,“ says Cimarusti. (“For over a decade, Providence has been at the forefront of L.A.’s fine-dining scene. Little has changed here, which is a beautiful thing,“ reads Michelin’s description of the restaurant.)

Consistency, both over time and across the menu, is one of five criteria used by Michelin’s anonymous inspectors to judge whether an establishment deserves inclusion in its iconic red guide. Quality of the ingredients, the cooking skills and the harmony of the flavors, the personality of the chef expressed in the cuisine and value for money also factor into the ratings, according to the company.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WONHO FRANK LEE; COURTESY KATO; RACHEL JACOBSON. OPPOSITE: JAKOB LAYMAN

TH E STARS ARE S H I N I N G O N CE AGAI N I N TH E CITY O F A N G ELS .

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L.A. STAR TOUR

Put rubber to the road and check out these Michelin-starred L.A. restaurants, organized by neighborhood.

BEVERLY HILLS

DOWNTOWN

HOLLYWOOD

**Somni (p. 52)

*Hayato Row DTLA, 1320 E. 7th St., Suite 126, 213.395.0607, hayatorestaurant.com

**Providence (p. 52)

**Urasawa 218 N. Rodeo Drive, 310.247.8939 *CUT (p. 54) *Maude (p. 54) *Nozawa Bar 212 N. Canon Drive, 424.216.6158, nozawabar.com

CULVER CITY **n/naka 3455 S. Overland Ave., 310.836.6252, n-naka.com

*Le Comptoir Hotel Normandie, 3606 W. 6th St., 213.290.0750, lecomptoirla.com *Orsa & Winston (p. 54) *Q Sushi (p. 55) *Shibumi 815 S. Hill St., 323.484.8915, shibumidtla.com

**Vespertine (p. 54)

MICHELIN GUIDE

**TWO STARS “Excellent cooking, worth a detour” *ONE STAR “High quality cooking, worth a stop”

*Kali 5722 Melrose Ave., 323.871.4160, kalirestaurant.com *Osteria Mozza (p. 52) *Trois Mec (p. 56)

SANTA MONICA *Dialogue (p. 57) *Rustic Canyon (p. 57)

SAWTELLE *Kato 11925 Santa Monica Blvd., 424.535.3041, katorestaurant.com *Mori Sushi 11500 W. Pico Blvd., 310.479.3939, morisushila.com

*Shunji 12244 W. Pico Blvd., 310.826.4737, shunji-ns.com

THE VALLEY *Bistro Na’s 9055 Las Tunas Drive, Suite 105, Temple City, 626.286.1999, bistronas.com *Shin Sushi 16573 Ventura Blvd., Suite 14, Encino, 818.616.4148

WEST HOLLYWOOD **Sushi Ginza Onodera 609 N. La Cienega Blvd., 323.433.4817, onodera-group.com

Providence pastry chef Mac Daniel Dimla’s whitesesame crémeux with Moro blood-orange sorbet

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Caviar with pork belly, hazelnut and smoked strawberry bubbles at Dialogue, chef Dave Beran’s 18-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Santa Monica

Wolfgang Puck, Osteria Mozza and Mori Sushi, as well as chef Hiroyuki Naruke’s Edostyle sushi temple, Q Sushi; James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran’s Dialogue; Curtis Stone’s wine-region-inspired Maude; Ludo Lefebvre’s Trois Mec; chef Gary Menes’ vegetable-forward Le Comptoir in the Hotel Normandie; and chef Jon Yao’s Taiwanese tasting-menu restaurant, Kato. (See the full list on the previous page.)

A tiny, unpretentious spot set in a Sawtelle strip mall, Kato represents Michelin’s (and, more generally, fine dining’s) expansion beyond European-style, whitetablecloth restaurants in recent years. Yao opened Kato in 2016 with little more than a few stages under his belt; he’s since been named a Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef, Forbes 30 Under 30 selection and

Chefs and spouses Niki Nakayama (left) and Carole Iida-Nakayama of n/naka

James Beard Foundation Rising Star finalist. In an Instagram post celebrating the restaurant’s first Michelin star, Yao hinted at an even greater ambition. “It definitely feels rewarding to receive affirmation from a long standing tradition that we all aspire to,“ he wrote. “So to team Kato—congratulations, you guys did it, now two more to go.“ Three stars, Michelin’s highest accolade, have proved elusive for L.A. There were other surprising omissions from the 2019 guide, too. Still, the city’s proud of those restaurants that did make the cut, and Poullennec sees a bright future. “We all feel at Michelin that [this] is only the very beginning,“ he said at the unveiling of this year’s stars—an optimistic view shared by Cimarusti, who predicts, “As the California guide evolves, I think L.A.’s light will continue to shine.”

FROM TOP: ERIN SIMKIN; ZEN SEKIZAWA

In addition to the star system is a designation called Bib Gourmand, established in 1997, which Michelin reserves for “hidden gems to complete the selections ... that are more widely accessible for diners.“ The new California guide includes 151 Bib Gourmand eateries; around 60 of those are in Greater L.A., including a handful of locally renowned Chinese and Mexican food spots and such lauded restaurants as Kismet, Cassia and Majordomo. The latest distinction to be added to the guide is the Michelin Plate, which denotes restaurants that serve “simply a good meal.” Altogether, there are now a whopping 657 Michelin-distinguished restaurants across the state.

Many chefs see recognition in the guide, especially in the form of one or more stars, as validation not only of the restaurant’s excellence, but also of their own hard work and talent. “It’s been a career goal of mine to be able to be included in the Michelin Guide. It has taken many years to perfect my craft to get there,“ says chef Kevin Meehan, whose seasonal California restaurant, Kali— which Michelin praises as “the very essence of neighborhood dining“—was one of 18 L.A. restaurants to receive a single star.

What’s more, the honor can be great for business. “The Michelin Guide has been a game changer for our small restaurant,“ says Meehan, who opened Kali with former Providence wine director Drew Langley three years ago. “Overall, the staff’s morale is up, our new demographic of guests are the best, and business has increased. What more could we ask for as restaurateurs?“ Other restaurants in the single-star category include repeat recipients CUT by 20 SOCALPULSE.COM

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EXPLORE THE CITY Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

CITY TOURS AT A

GLANCE

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown The Valley Pasadena

SANTA MONICA PIER, PHOTO BY LISA CORSON

South Bay

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS LOOMS LARGE IN POP CULTURE AS A POSH LOCALE HOME TO THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS ZIP CODE.

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of some 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest.

Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles.

Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, which has appeared in The Big Lebowski and Gilmore Girls.

Its graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Canon Drive. MCM Worldwide, Celine and Balenciaga recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fineart destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive.

Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this

stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out thousands of square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment

businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Canon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY GREAT FIND

Sustainable Style >Eco-conscious womenswear brand and e-tailer Whimsy + Row has set down roots with a brick-and-mortar boutique in idyllic Mar Vista, adjacent to Culver City. The L.A.-based, women-owned company makes its feminine styles sustainably and ethically. At the shop, find its full collection, along with goods from local, like-minded businesses.

12801 Venice Blvd., L.A., 424.500.2405, whimsyandrow.com

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-square-mile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are the Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO (2); COURTESY WALLIS ANNENBERG CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS. BOTTOM LEFT: WILLIAM PERLS; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY LADURÉE

THE MANSIONS

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shopping on Canon Drive in Beverly Hills; House of Bijan on Rodeo Drive; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

INSIDER TIPS

The Sweet Life Beverly Hills boasts beaucoup European-style patisseries and cafés.

Ladurée macarons

Chaumont 143 S. Beverly Drive, 310.550.5510

L’Tarte Boutique Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033

Ladurée 311 N. Beverly Drive, 310.623.1100

La Provence Patisserie & Café 8950 W. Olympic Blvd., 310.888.8833

Le Mervetty 319 N. Canon Drive, 310.804.9409

Le Pain Quotidien 9630 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.859.1100

’Lette Macarons 9466 Charleville Blvd., 310.275.0023

Oro Caffé 9559 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.888.8714

Tarte Tatin Bakery & Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 23

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New in Town Amá•cita

Chef Josef Centeno has transformed his BäcoShop space into a fun new Tex-Mex eatery with a California twist.

9552 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 424.523.3300

Jaffa Palms

Jaffa’s first location on 3rd Street quickly became a huge hit, and now the team is serving its modern take on Eastern Mediterranean cuisine in Palms.

10306 Venice Blvd., L.A., 424.298.8180

TAGS

Platform in Culver City

won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment in 2017. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northwest of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on

the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7.5-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings and cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue

is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with trendy bars and restaurants. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains a dozen high-end furniture showrooms.

Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 20 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip

Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped.

Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF BEVERLY HILLS, SEE PAGE 76.

KATIE GIBBS

This travel-clothing brand carries easyto-wear, fashionable pieces perfect for a jet-set lifestyle. 259 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.360.1660

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Santa Monica THE COASTAL CITY’S BUSTLING DOWNTOWN, BEACH AND PIER ATTRACT MILLIONS OF VISITORS PER YEAR.

Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to the Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in

1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz.

Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe.

The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era

home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café.

THE ARTS

MALIBU

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in a structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue.

On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center—

A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and

GREAT FIND

New Kid on the Block >Formerly the Zimmer Children’s Museum, the Cayton Children’s Museum just opened its new 21,000-square-foot facility at Santa Monica Place. It features an array of immersive experiences for young adventurers and provides fun and active ways for kids to develop their character and “play their way to a better world.” 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 424.416.8328, caytonmuseum.org

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: NATALIA MACHEDA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: MATHEW TUCCIARONE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY CARBON38

THIRD STREET + THE PIER

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pacific Park at the Santa Monica Pier; the Italian-esque Venice Canal Historic District; open-air shopping center Santa Monica Place

INSIDER TIPS

Fit & Fine Sweat in style wearing the latest from these fitness-apparel shops.

Carbon38

ALO Yoga 1422 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.252.2660 and Palisades Village, 1060 Swarthmore Ave., L.A., 424.223.5707

Athleta 1318 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.3040

Avocado 1348 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.452.1968 and 1239 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.744.7747

Carbon38 Palisades Village, 15273 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 310.300.3806

Sweaty Betty 1308 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.260.4998 and 1112 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3675

Vimmia 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Suite 116, Brentwood, 424.208.3532 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 27

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New Newin Town

In Town

ba&sh

This elegant Parisian brand just opened its second West Coast store at chic Malibu Country Mart. 23410 Civic Center Way, Malibu, 424.235.2339

Birdie G’s

Chef Jeremy Fox took inspiration from his grandmother’s dishes and added a modern, California spin at his new restaurant. 2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310.310.3616

Birkenstock

The German brand is now selling its iconic sandals at its second U.S. retail store. The airy, beachy shop feels right at home in Venice.

1208 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.310.8448

Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square.

Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland is wine country, where you can sample the local vino (and feed a giraffe!) at Malibu Wine Safari.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and

restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades. Upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. Palisades Village—from the developer of The Grove and The Americana at Brand—recently opened with over 40 uniquely curated boutiques. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a koiand swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become

Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping

ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful Central Garden.

MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF SANTA MONICA, SEE PAGE 76.

LISA CORSON, USED BY PERMISSION OF THE J. PAUL GETTY TRUST

The Central Garden, created by artist Robert Irwin, at the Getty Center

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Time-tested for 85 years and counting.

Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

West Hollywood LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE FLOCK TO WEHO’S ART GALLERIES, BOUTIQUES, RESTAURANTS AND NIGHTCLUBS.

After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Tesse and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s eurozone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley girl. For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar or Le Petit Four.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with

trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has multiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops.

Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene.

Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block

GREAT FIND

Handbag Heaven >Last fall, secondhand luxury-handbag retailer Rebag simultaneously opened two L.A. boutiques in the city’s most exclusive shopping destinations: Melrose Place and Beverly Hills. At the Melrose outpost, tucked inside an ivy-covered building, you can buy—or sell—your own designer bag. You’ll also find the popular Rebag Bar and the signature Hermès Birkin Wall. 8461 Melrose Place, L.A., 844.373.7723, rebag.com

stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and the first freestanding RH Modern Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect César Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners. Nearby are upscale dining options including Cecconi’s, Craig’s and Gracias Madre.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY BEVERLY CENTER; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY REBAG; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The luxury wing at the recently remodeled Beverly Center; the Petersen Automotive Museum; a vendor at the Original Farmers Market

INSIDER TIPS

Selfie Service Strike a pose in front of the area’s oh-so’grammable backdrops.

Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural

Alfred in the Alley 8509 Melrose Place, L.A.

Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.

Colette Miller Angel Wings outside St. Regis Wine & Liquor 8401 W. 3rd St., L.A.

Hello mural at Carrera Cafe 8251 Melrose Ave., L.A.

Made in L.A. mural 8025 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood

Marisabel Bazan’s Dance of the Butterflies mural 621 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood

Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural at Mondrian 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood

Paul Smith’s Pink Wall 8221 Melrose Ave., L.A.

RETNA mural outside Craig’s 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 31

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W sho a st m sho

New in Town

Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA

Bandier

The luxury activewear line’s new West Coast flagship is a threestory space with a café, fitness studio and, of course, shoes and apparel. 8101 Melrose Ave., L.A., 213.433.3203

The Kassi Club

Restaurateur Nick Mathers is behind this new-age Greek taverna serving up Mediterranean food and cocktails.

8422 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.545.6743

Pizzana

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

rant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitson and Kitson Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive.

Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picketfenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. The District by Hannah An and A.O.C., popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive.

Additional venues on this Museum Row include the renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft Contemporary. South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like French

bistro République and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, pizzerias, a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo and a new location of Trejo’s Tacos. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Charlotte Tilbury are joined by myriad restaurants including 189

by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut) and a Halo Top Scoop Shop.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF WEST HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGES 76-77.

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which just underwent a multimilliondollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Louis Vuitton boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restau-

EDWIN SANTIAGO

This upscale pizzeria’s first location earned a spot on the Michelin Bib Gourmand, and now you can taste its Naplesstyle pies in WeHo. 460 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.4662

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3rdStree

With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.

Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”

@WESTTHIRDSTREET

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WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . . C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique (+ Men) . E Bedhead Pajamas . . . . . Q Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . . C KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . E Kinsley James Couture Bridal . . . . . .F Lot Stock and Barrel . . . C M. Cohen Designs (+ Men) . . . . . . . . . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . .P 6 Nathalie Seaver Boutique . . . . . . . . . . Q NFP New Form Perspective . . . . . . . R noodle stories . . . . . . . . . E Parliament . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . . . C 5 Pyrrha (+ Men). . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Raquel Allegra . . . . . . . . Q Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Wardrobe Department . Q William B. + Friends . . . . Q

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QUALITY FOOD & BEVERAGE

THE ORLANDO HOTEL

WITTMORE

8030 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-5959

8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com

HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . .P Allan Jeffries Framing . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . B Freehand Gallery . . . . . . B MUD Australia . . . . . . . . . R Portola Paints & Glazes . G The Sill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J Vitsoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . E Lot Stock and Barrel . . . C M. Cohen Designs. . . . . Q 3 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . R

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DAN DEUTSCH OPTICAL OUTLOOK

PYRRHA

NATHALIE SEAVER FRENCH STYLE BOUTIQUE

8358 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-6181 dandeutschopticaloutlook.com

8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

8360 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8286 maison-nathalie.com

PETS Vanderpump Dogs . . . . .S

FA I R FA X AV E N U E

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FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co . . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . .P Blending Lab. . . . . . . . . . U Bluestone Lane . . . . . . . . .S Carmela Ice Cream. . . . U Cleo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . R Four Winters . . . . . . . . . . K Gelataria Uli . . . . . . . . . . .T Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . . Q Groundworks . . . . . . . . . J JAFFA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Joan’s on Third. . . . . . . . Q The Little Door . . . . . . . . .S The Little Next Door . . . .S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . . C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . . Q Mama’s Secret Bakery & Cafe . . . . . Q Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Plancha Tacos . . . . . . . . . R Prime Cutts . . . . . . . . . . . Q 1 Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . .T Simplethings Restaurant . . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . . Q Sweetfin Poke . . . . . . . . . K Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . K Toast Bakery Cafe . . . . . G Verve Coffee Roasters . K

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OPTICAL & SERVICES 4 Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . . Q 2 Orlando Hotel . . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . . Q

EDINBURGH AVENUE

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BEAUTY & FITNESS Aesop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . .P Alchemy 43 . . . . . . . . . . . .S AuraCycle . . . . . . . . . . . . .F The Bar Method . . . . . . . .P Benefit Cosmetics . . . . . C Blow Me Away Blow Dry Bar . . . . . . .G

LAUREL AVENUE

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KIDS Eggy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Lil Bit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Youth Academy of Dramatic Arts . . . . . . J

Bronzed and Sugared . . .S Bunda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F Clark Nova Salon . . . . . . .S Credo Beauty . . . . . . . . . E Drybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Face Haus . . . . . . . . . . . . C Le Labo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C MudbuM . . . . . . . . . . . . . J Murad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G SkinSense Wellness Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . . G Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . .P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R WOLA Fitness . . . . . . . . U

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD + HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity handand footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe

organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hol-

lywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Lady Gaga. You

GREAT FIND

Sweet Spot >At Tuesday’s Sweet Shoppe in Los Feliz, candy is a family affair—Emily Roiff owns the store with her husband and her brother, and named it after her daughter, Tuesday. Inside, find over 200 types of bulk candy, plus a chocolate gallery wall with brands from all over the world. Our picks? Rosé-flavored cotton candy and “frittle”—chocolate-covered peanut brittle. 1937½ Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 323.763.0115, tuesdaysla.com

can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions.

Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn

by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Holly-

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JONALYN SAN DIEGO, UNSPLASH; COURTESY TCL CHINESE THEATRE; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TUESDAY’S SWEET SHOPPE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: FRANK ZHANG, UNSPLASH

HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND HIP LOS FELIZ AND SILVER LAKE SHARE THE LIMELIGHT.

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THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: TCL Chinese Theatre; the Hollywood Museum OPPOSITE: The roof at Griffith Observatory

INSIDER TIPS

House Hunters The Eastside is full of architectural stars, but please check before stopping by—only a few offer public access.

Stahl House

Bubeshko Apartments 2036-2046 Griffith Park Blvd., Silver Lake

The Ennis House 2607 Glendower Ave., Los Feliz

Hollyhock House 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.988.0516 (tours offered)

Neutra VDL House 2300 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, neutra-vdl.org (tours offered)

The Paramour Estate 1923 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake, 213.999.0920

Silvertop 2138 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake

The Sowden House 5121 Franklin Ave., Los Feliz

Stahl House 1635 Woods Drive, L.A., 208.429.1058 (prepaid tour reservations required) WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 35

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RE

New Newin Town

In Town

Happy Socks

The Swedish brand known for its fun, colorful socks has a new Silver Lake shop—stop by to pick up a pair. 3902 Sunset Blvd., L.A., happysocks.com

Intelligentsia

This specialty coffee-bar chain is an L.A. favorite, so it’s only natural that it’s now offering its highquality caffeine fix along the Hollywood Walk of Fame. 6401 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 213.277.9095

Paradise City Records

wood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/mini complex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.

a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at the library-themed Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including Beauty & Essex.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is one of the most memorable experiences in L.A.

NIGHT CRAWLING

LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and

These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and

perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and eateries that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Restaurants such as Atrium represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at Forage, Sawyer and Kettle Black, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther

east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (3 miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,870-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGE 77.

DALE BERMAN

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House

You can find a wide variety of vinyls, vintage video games, comics, toys and more at this retro one-stop shop.

5009 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.486.7887

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REF: W B S T H – H OL LYWOOD M A DE HE RE – WHE RE LA MAGAZ INE

DATE : 14 .0 8 .2 0 19

HOLLYWOOD MADE HERE BOOK ONLINE AND SAVE

a© & TM WBEI. WONDER WOMAN and all related characters and elements are © & TM DC Comics and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. (s19) HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & TM Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s19)

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Downtown UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 80-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of

stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe

Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened recently after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781,

GREAT FIND

California Connoisseurs >For a sip of something local, head to cozy Chinatown wine bar LA Wine, just steps from the Gold Line Metro station. Inside, you’ll find an affordable, curated list of solely California wines (plus a selection of beers). Owner David DeLuca recently launched a namesake house label too, consisting of a syrah and chardonnay. Enjoy a glass, then buy a bottle to go. 900 N. Broadway, Suite 1070, downtown, lawineforever.com

is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theater District, home to once-opulent movie palaces.

Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY UNION STATION; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY LA WINE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: PABLO ENRIQUEZ, COURTESY COS

DTLA COULD NOT BE HOTTER RIGHT NOW, WITH NEW RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS OPENING DAILY IN TRENDY ’HOODS.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The fountain at Grand Park, in the heart of downtown Los Angeles; Union Station, built in 1939; dancing at historic Olvera Street

INSIDER TIPS

Urban Style These fashionable menswear shops keep L.A.’s downtown crowd looking on point.

COS

3.1 Phillip Lim 734 E. 3rd St., 213.246.2588

Acne Studios 855 S. Broadway, 213.243.0960

Apolis Alchemy Works, 826 E. 3rd St., 855.894.1559

COS 313 W. 8th St., 213.271.2716

Dover Street Market L.A. 606-608 Imperial St., 310.427.7610

Pocket Square Clothing 205 W. 7th St., 213.375.5111

Row DTLA (13 Bonaparte, Banks Journal, Bodega, Bridge & Burn) 777 Alameda St.

Visvim Exposition 304 S. Broadway, Suite 218, 213.265.7901

Wittmore 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite X, 213.626.0780 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 39

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New in Town Hex

The tech accessories and bag brand makes its grand return to L.A. in a larger space, next to Ace Hotel. 939 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.278.0897

Joey DTLA

Boasting the largest street-level patio in DTLA and an interior willow tree, the design of this Canadian restaurant is as impressive as its globally inspired menu. 700 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.372.5335

Tacos 1986

streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish, hidden in the back of historic Cole’s French Dip.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central

Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple.

Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal

small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Brera Ristorante and Bestia.

L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers, Sparks and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myr-

iad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits.

A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF DOWNTOWN, SEE PAGE 77.

IWAN BAAN

The Broad

After it went viral on social media, it was only a matter of time before this acclaimed Tijuana-style taco stand opened its own storefront. 609 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.988.7202

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805-WH

THE GARDEN BAR

LOCAL VIEWS, LOCAL BREWS, LOCAL WINE OUE SKYSPACE LA’S NEWEST ATTRACTION INCLUDES: Two open-air observation decks Casual dress code Paid parking available at Westlawn Parking Garage Admission to Skyspace required, reservations not needed Private event rentals available

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

The Valley THE VALLEY IS A SPRAWLING COLLECTION OF COMMUNITIES, EACH WITH ITS OWN ATTRACTIONS AND CHARMS.

A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfieldthemed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville,

Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and

visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites).

Always-packed Porto’s Bakery

GREAT FIND

Blooming in Burbank >Feather your nest—and backyard—with home goods from Tansy, a new boutique along Burbank’s bustling Magnolia Boulevard. You’ll find unique house plants, handmade items from international artists and eclectic decor around every corner. The enchanting space also hosts whimsical events—think fairy-garden planting parties and living-wall design classes. 2120 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, 800.580.0541, shoptansy.com

offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors?

Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses.

And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport.

It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID SPRAGUE/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD; DALE BERMAN (3)

UNIVERSAL CITY

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THIS PAGE: The NoHo Arts District OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Wizarding World of Harry Potter; Porto’s Bakery; the Federal Bar

INSIDER TIPS

Showtime Get in on the act at the Valley’s performingarts venues. dance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions.

Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its familyoriented lifestyle.

FAR RIGHT: COURTESY THE SORAYA; OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TANSY

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub; several Tiki bars; and the 1933 Group’s Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abun-

Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP, SEE PAGE 78.

The Soraya at CSUN

The Colony Theatre 555 N. 3rd St., Burbank, 818.558.7000

Crown City Theatre 11031 Camarillo St., North Hollywood, 818.605.5685

El Portal Theatre 5269 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.508.4200

Garry Marshall Theatre 4252 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.955.8101

Simi Valley Cultural Arts Center 3050 E. Los Angeles Ave., 805.583.7900

The Soraya at CSUN 18111 Nordhoff St., Northridge, 818.677.3000

Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Plaza 2100 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., 805.449.2787

Whitefire Theatre 13500 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.687.8559 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 43

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Pasadena HOME TO THE TOURNAMENT OF ROSES, THE CROWN CITY’S SMALL-TOWN CHARM BLOOMS ALL YEAR LONG.

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded

by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Zara, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled

with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters is formidable. To the north, you’ll find Rose Bowl Stadium (home to the UCLA Bruins, concerts and a popular flea market) and, nearby, the interactive Kidspace Children’s Museum.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court

Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment.

Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

GREAT FIND

Keep in Touch >School is back in session, and Highland Park is home to an adorable new store full of A-plus art supplies: Touch, an extension of nearby gift shop Crush. Its shelves are lined with everything from sidewalk chalk to artist-grade gouache, and kids, beginners, students and professionals alike can find what they’ll need to create artistic masterpieces.

5119 York Blvd., L.A., crush-la.com/pages/about-touch-art-supply

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California.

Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred-

ALL PHOTOS DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TOUCH ART SUPPLY; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: © DESCANSO GARDENS

OLD PASADENA

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Huntington’s cacti-filled Desert Garden; the architecturally significant Pasadena City Hall; shopping in Old Town Pasadena

INSIDER TIPS

Garden Party These local gardens bloom year-round.

Descanso Gardens

Arlington Garden 275 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.578.5434

Descanso Gardens 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200

The Huntington 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2100

Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222

Norton Simon Museum 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840

Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden 270 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.399.1721

Tournament House & Wrigley Gardens 391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100

Whispering Pine Tea House 1601 W. Mountain St., Glendale, 818.548.3782 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 45

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New in Town Ethel M Chocolates

Find small-batch, preservative-free treats at this chocolate shop and tasting room.

2159 Glendale Galleria, Glendale, 747.240.3987

Indochino

Set up an appointment at this made-tomeasure menswear company to create your own bespoke suit. The Americana at Brand, 712 Americana Way, Glendale, 747.240.5480

Porto’s Bakery & Cafe

horse-racing venues in the world.

Arcadia is also home to the beautiful 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying authentic Asian cuisine— everything from hole-in-the-wall bánh mì shops to grandiose Cantonese dim sum palaces—is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present myriad hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the

Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Blocks from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is the relatively undiscovered community of Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A., with homespun shops and diners. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF PASADENA, SEE PAGE 78.

DALE BERMAN

South Pasadena’s Fair Oaks Pharmacy

This Cuban bakery has only five locations, and at any given time, you can expect long lines of people ordering boxes of pastries and its famous potato balls.

584 S. Sunset Ave., West Covina, 626.214.3490

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Elevate YOUR NIGHTLIFE.

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

South Bay THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS BOAST OCEANVIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND FUN ATTRACTIONS.

Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s.

Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier, with its newly modernized Roundhouse Aquarium, features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is diehard beach-volleyball country.

It’s also a playground for watersports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand

House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive.

Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to

Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue.

Farther east, Becker carries surfboards and beachwear.

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront

GREAT FIND

Secondhand Stars >Stars Antique Market—located in a 7,000-square-foot barn-shaped building by the beach—is a must-visit destination for vintage treasure hunters. Inside, find over 70 individual dealers selling a wide spectrum of vintage items and collectibles, one-of-a-kind historical items and antiques that will suit every style, from shabby chic to midcentury.

526 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.2800, starsantiquemarket.com

featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor.

Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY STARS ANTIQUE MARKET; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS

MANHATTAN BEACH

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Manhattan Beach Pier and Roundhouse Aquarium; Hermosa Beach; a penguin at Long Beach’s Aquarium of the Pacific

INSIDER TIPS

¡Vamos a comer!

For muy deliciosa Mexican fare, sit down at one of these local faves.

Madre

Madre 1261 Cabrillo Ave., Suite 100, Torrance, 310.974.8005

Ortega 120 1814 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.792.4120

Palmilla Cocina y Tequila 39 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.977.7939

Pancho’s 3615 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.6670

Panxa Cocina 3937 E. Broadway, Long Beach, 562.433.7999

Sausal 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721

Sion’s 235 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.372.4504

Zacatecas Restaurant 13737 S. Inglewood Ave., Suite 9, Hawthorne, 310.679.5161 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 49

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New in Town Duff’s Cakemix

Create tasty works of art at Food Network star Duff Goldman’s cakeand cupcake-decorating studio at the Works.

730 S. Allied Way, El Segundo, 424.277.2811

Slay Steak + Fish House

This stylish restaurant features grass-fed beef, sustainable seafood and vegan dishes made from organic produce.

1141 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.504.0902

Tokyo Guild

feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Lighthouse is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-

foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors.

More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annu-

ally; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the

Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF THE SOUTH BAY, SEE PAGE 77.

STEVE NICHOLS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The Queen Mary ocean liner

This new eatery is serving up Tokyo-style street food, ramen and sandwiches paired with beer, wine and cocktails.

4262 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, 562.912.7722

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FIND YOUR

MARINA MOMENT Where living in the moment means paddleboarding to breakfast. Seizing the day can be a mid-morning sailing lesson, parasailing over the marina or cycling to Venice Beach. Embracing an evening is toasting the sunset and dancing under the star-kissed sky on a harbor cruise. It’s all here... what will your Marina adventure be?

Check out visitmarinadelrey.com or call 424-526-7900 for information.

Get connected with Marina del Rey

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THE GUIDE / DINING

A.O.C. > Mediterranean $$$ Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 Map I12 BAO DIM SUM > Chinese $$ Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 Map I12 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ Executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of skirt steak and lamb, and woodburned flatbreads. B, D (daily). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.579.1600 Map I12

Right Angle

Acclaimed Bay Area chef Joshua Skenes and his Saison Hospitality have brought Angler—and the chef’s Michelin-starred prowess— to the recently renovated Beverly Center. The menu at the “sea-life focused” restaurant is centered around a giant wood-burning hearth, where Skenes applies his unique fire cooking methods to locally sourced produce, game and seafood (like the spot prawns above). You’ll see the catch of the day swimming in tanks— an eye-catching element of Angler’s sophisticated maritime design. Pair your meal with a cocktail or selection from the expansive wine list. The restaurant is the latest addition to the shopping center’s alreadyimpressive culinary lineup, which includes Cal Mare (p. 56) and Yardbird Southern Table & Bar (p. 57). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 117, L.A., 424.332.4082, anglerrestaurants.com

(V) CROSSROADS KITCHEN > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 Map H12 THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN > Pan-Asian $$$ One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities in a chic indoor-outdoor space. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 Map I12 THE LITTLE DOOR > French $$$ For a candlelit dinner in a romantic setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 Map I12

Guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Beverly Boulevard........ 52 Beverly Hills................. 52 Brentwood.................... 54 Century City.................. 54 Culver City.................... 54 Downtown..................... 54 Hollywood..................... 56 La Brea......................... 56 La Cienega Boulevard. 56

Malibu........................... 57 Marina del Rey............. 57 Pasadena...................... 57 Santa Monica................ 58 South Bay..................... 58 Valley............................. 58 Venice............................ 58 West Hollywood............ 58 Westside....................... 59

(V) = Vegan/Vegetarian

SON OF A GUN > Seafood $$$ Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for inspiration here. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 Map I12 TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza and pastas. Try the delicious capunti al ragù d’agnello. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 Map J13 TORELLI TRATTORIA > Italian $$ Featuring a charming patio and dining room, this classic Tuscan trattoria serves authentic, made-to-order Italian dishes such as polpette al forno con mozzarella, tortellini di formaggio al pesto and lasagna Bolognese e besciamella. Br, L, D (Tu-Su). 7469 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.433.7065 Map H13

BEVERLY HILLS

LUCQUES > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes delicious starters such as grilled lamb merguez with haricots verts, banyuls, dried figs and treviso. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 Map I13

THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS/SOMNI > Spanish $$$$ Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to SLS Beverly Hills. Somni is billed as a “multi-sensory culinary experience” with a 20-pluscourse tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock. com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555, Somni 310.246.5543 Map H16

OSTERIA MOZZA > Italian $$$ Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which includes this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 Map H13

THE BELVEDERE > Mediterranean $$$$ The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ restaurant has a lovely terrace and menu from executive chef David Codney. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 Map J11

PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO > Italian $$ The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials.

Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 Map H13

CRUSTACEAN > Pan-Asian $$$ A walk-on-water aquarium meanders throughout the length of this modern-Vietnamese Beverly Hills landmark, which recently reopened its doors following a $10 million redesign. Enjoy reimagined Asian-fusion dishes while still satisfying cravings with the An family’s legendary “Secret Kitchen” dishes. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 468 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 Map I11

PROVIDENCE > Seafood $$$$ Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 Map I14

CULINA > Italian $$$ The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 Map J12

> After being nominated nine successive times, Providence chef Michael Cimarusti finally received the James Beard Award for Best Chef: West this year.

BONJWING LEE

BEVERLY BOULEVARD / 3RD STREET / MELROSE AVENUE

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DINING BRENTWOOD BALTAIRE > Steak $$$$ Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-or-stars dining on its terrace.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 Map J12 JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, which just opened a new Brentwood outpost, has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 11938 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.442.2733 Map J12

Corn caviar at Maude

CUT > Steak $$$$ A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, CUT is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 Map J11 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads, chicken potpies and other old-school fare. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615 Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS > California $$$$ Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6666 Map J11 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 Map J11

TAVERN > California $$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 Map J9

CENTURY CITY CRAFT > American $$$ New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 Map K11 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424.382.1118 Map J10

CULVER CITY LUKSHON > Pan-Asian $$$ Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 Map K12

MATSUHISA > Japanese $$$$ Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 Map I12

NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., L.A., 310.202.7003 Map L11

MAUDE > California $$$$ Aussie celebrity chef Curtis Stone helms this intimate, 24-seat restaurant. Four times a year, Stone and his team offer a new tasting menu and optional wine pairings inspired by a great wine region of the world. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 Map J11

VESPERTINE > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef Jordan Kahn’s pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s 101 best restaurants. Expect a spaceage meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la Map L12

MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 Map I11

DOWNTOWN

NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 Map J12 SPAGO > California $$$ An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 Map I11

71ABOVE > American $$$$ In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 Map H16 BAVEL > Mediterranean $$$ Bestia chef Ori Menashe and wife/pastry chef Genevieve Gergis bring Middle Eastern cuisine into the mainstream at this lively, trendsetting Arts District restaurant. The menu features a wide-ranging selection of mezze and larger plates such as herb-stuffed dorade with red chermoula. D (nightly). 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.232.4966 Map J17

BESTIA > Italian $$$ Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE > Italian $$ This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 Map I16 BRERA RISTORANTE > Italian $$$ From the team behind the Factory Kitchen, this stylish trattoria (formerly Officine Brera) serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 Map J17 BROKEN SPANISH > Mexican/Latin $$$ This “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. Try the oxtail quesadilla and lambneck tamale. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 Map I15 DRAGO CENTRO > Italian $$$ Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN > Italian $$$ Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, Suite 101, downtown, 213.996.6000 Map J17 GUERRILLA TACOS > Mexican/Latin $$ Chef Wes Avila’s lauded taco truck recently put it in park to open a brick-and-mortar space in the Arts District, complete with a bar and patio. B (M-F), L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2000 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.3300 Map J17 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR > French $$$ Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here. L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 Map H16 L.A. PRIME > Steak $$$$ Enjoy city views, wet-aged steaks and an award-winning wine list at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 Map I16 LE PETIT PARIS > French $$$ The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (W-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 Map I17 LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster.

L, D (daily). 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 Map I16 ORSA & WINSTON > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. For dinner,

DYLAN + JENI

Hollywood Bowl

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DINING

WURSTKÜCHE > Quick Bites $$ Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, buffalo with Luxardo cherries and mint. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.687.4444 Map I17

Chef Hiroyuki Naruke’s Q Sushi

enjoy a daily changing five-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 Map I16 OTIUM > California $$$ French Laundry alum Timothy Hollingsworth helms this modern restaurant adjacent to the Broad museum, preparing rustic, market-driven cuisine such as hamachi with nori and avocado, and a signature black-cod dish. L (TuF), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 222 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.935.8500 Map H16 PATINA > French $$$$ The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classical-music offerings with fine dining at its fine in-house restaurant, reopening Sept. 12. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 Map H16 PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL > Quick Bites $ The purported birthplace of the French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee.

B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 Map G17 Q SUSHI > Japanese $$$$ The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and a parade of simply prepared sushi. These strictly traditional interpretations are never flashy but always rewarding. L (Tu-F), D (TuSa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 Map I16 REDBIRD > American $$$ Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 Map H17

YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere has made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since the Yun family opened the spot in 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811 Map G17

HOLLYWOOD / EASTSIDE ALIMENTO > Italian $$$ Zach Pollack is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, with dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 Map east of W23 APL RESTAURANT > Steak $$$$ At classically trained chef and barbecue expert ­Adam Perry Lang’s steakhouse, starters include new versions of old-school favorites. The rib-eye, bone-in New York strip and tomahawk chop are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 Map H14 THE BOURBON ROOM > American $$$ Step into the world of Rock of Ages at this new restaurant and bar. The immersive theatrical and dining experience features dinner and bar service before, during and after performances. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, rockofageshollywood.com Map H14 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ The Hollywood location of this bustling mezze restaurant recently reopened in the new h Club Los Angeles with a menu from chef Martin Heierling. D (nightly). 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 Map H14 GWEN > American $$$$ Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 Map H14 THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL > Steak $$$ Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes and lobster Thermidor with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (TuSa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 Map H13

ROSSOBLU > Italian $$$ Chef Steve Samson and wife Dina are behind this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where Samson serves Bolognese family favorites. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.1099 Map J16

NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 Map south of W23

TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain. Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234 Map I16

PALEY > California $$$ This glamorous restaurant pays homage to the golden age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 Map H14

WP24 > Pan-Asian $$$$ From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the

PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a

confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A new outpost in the Valley opened last year. L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916 Map H13 SALAZAR > Mexican/Latin $$ This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (TuSu); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla. com Map southeast of W23 TROIS MEC > French $$$$ Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must make advance reservations via phone or the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, multicourse meal. D (Tu-Sa). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com Map H13

LA BREA / MID-CITY ANIMAL > American $$$ This bare-bones eatery from Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal, (such as pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 Map I13 JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 Map B2 PINK’S HOT DOGS > Quick Bites $ There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot-dog stand, open since 1939, which serves around 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 Map I13 RÉPUBLIQUE > French $$ Fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics in a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 Map I13

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD / RESTAURANT ROW BARTON G. THE RESTAURANT > American $$$ The L.A. location of Barton G. Weiss’ Miami Beach restaurant offers fun, showstopping food presentations in a finedining setting, making each meal an experience. Favorites include the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp and cottoncandy dessert Marie Antoinette’s Head. D (nightly). 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.388.1888 Map I12 CAL MARE > Seafood $$$ This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 131 La Cienega Blvd., Suite 115, L.A., 424.332.4595 Map I12 CATTLE & CLAW > American $$ Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ laid-back restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef). Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.770.1654 Map I12 NOBU > Japanese $$$$ The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711 Map H12

COURTESY Q SUSHI

goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. The restaurant offers some of downtown’s best skyline views. Restaurant/ lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room: D (Tu-Sa). Nest: D (Tu-Sa). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 Map I15

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Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery THE STINKING ROSE > Steak $$ True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 Map I12 YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR > Southern $$$ This fried-chicken favorite at the Beverly Center is popular for its made-from-scratch regional Southern fare and cocktails like the Southern Peach, made with sweet tea. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 112, L.A., 323.250.8034 Map I12

MALIBU DUKE’S MALIBU > Seafood $$ Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this restaurant features oceanfront views, a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 Map west of K7

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd.

Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB > Steak $$$$ At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 Map west of K7 MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. D (nightly). Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 Map K7 NOBU MALIBU > Japanese $$$$ Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s coastal restaurant attracts celebrities, as well as serious foodies. Indulge in an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi.

B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 Map east of K7

MARINA DEL REY CAFE DEL REY > Seafood $$$ Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. It recently unveiled a new menu and look. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 Map N9

TA K E A T R I P TO T H E MEDITERRANEAN, W I T H O U T L E AV I N G L . A .

Inspired, shareable, modern Mediterranean fare.

MENTION THIS AD TO RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY ROUND OF CRAFT COCKTAILS *Offer valid with the purchase of an entrée.

Limit 1 offer per table. Not valid with any other offers.

Offer expires 12/30/2019.

PASADENA / GLENDALE ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 Map Q20 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068 Map U23, R23 (2) SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 Map Q19

cleothirdstreet.com @cleorestaurant cleothirdstreet@sbe.com 323 579 1600 8 3 84 We s t 3 r d S t r e e t L o s A n g e l e s , C A 9 0 04 8

YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine has made this local chain a mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 Map Q22

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SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 Map L8 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD > British/Irish $$ Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, like the acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 Map L8

Foie gras halva at Bavel (p. 54)

SANTA MONICA 1 PICO > California $$$ This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 Map M8 BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE > Seafood $$$ Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 Map L8 BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466 Map M8 CASSIA > Eclectic/Fusion $$$ This Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng serving dishes like Vietnamese pot-au-feu and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 Map L8 DIALOGUE > California $$$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant. One market-driven 18- to 20-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online.

D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd St. Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com Map L8 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. > Seafood $$ Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 Map M9 MICHAEL’S > California $$$ Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 Map L8 MILO & OLIVE > Pizza $$ The team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is at communal tables and the bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 Map K9 RUSTIC CANYON > California $$$ Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of

SOUTH BAY / LONG BEACH DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 Map D2 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE > Seafood $$$ Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations here. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 Map L13 ISE-SHIMA > Japanese $$ Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers.

B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 Map M14 LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 Map L13, M13 LOVE & SALT > California $$$ Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted branzino) in this buzzy South Bay spot.

Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 Map L13 M.B. POST > American $$$ Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, freshbaked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 Map L13 SAUSAL > Mexican/Latin $$ This stylish El Segundo restaurant serves nuevo-rancho cuisine by chef Anne Conness (Jaffa), with an emphasis on wood fire, smoke and slow-roasting methods; Mexican and Spanish flavors; and locally sourced produce. L, D (daily). 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721 Map L13 THE STRAND HOUSE > California $$$ This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a stylish bar. Executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights coastal California cuisine. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 Map L13 YANG CHOW 2.0 > Chinese $$ This popular local Mandarin and Szechuan chain just opened a more casual Long Beach outpost. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp. L, D (Tu-Su). 2930 Clark Ave., Long Beach, 562.982.4288 Map M17

VALLEY ASANEBO > Japanese $$$$ Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 Map A1 CASTAWAY > American $$$ Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 Map north of W21 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other oldschool fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 Map west of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ This celebrity-frequented café offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 Map T18 PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. B, L, D (daily). 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 Map G10

VENICE FELIX TRATTORIA > Italian $$$ Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glassenclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—tonnarelli, orecchiette—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 Map M9 GJELINA > Mediterranean $$$ Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett (also behind Gjusta and MTN), Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 Map N9 MTN > Japanese $$$ Chef Travis Lett is behind this California izakaya, where foodies perch on bar stools to slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. L, D (daily). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 Map N9 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (W-F), D (W-M). 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 Map M9 (V) PLANT FOOD + WINE > California $$$ This restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining.

Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 Map N9

WEST HOLLYWOOD BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse on the Sunset Strip. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 Map H12

NICOLE FRANZEN

market-driven, Mediterranean-inspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 Map L8

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DAN TANA’S > Italian $$$ New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks. Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 Map I11 FIG & OLIVE > Mediterranean $$$ Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil.

Don’t miss the paella noir or the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 Map I12 (V) GRACIAS MADRE > Mexican/Latin $$ Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche and flautas de camote filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 Map I12 KATANA > Japanese $$$ Sunset Strip restaurant with a sushi bar and robatastyle cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscale-casual dress code. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 Map H12 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724 Map I12 ROKU > Japanese $$$ This Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, inventive omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 Map H12 ROSALINÉ > Mexican/Latin $$$ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant— named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., kampachi ceviche, chicharrón de paiche). D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 Map I12 TESSE > French $$$ Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights updated for 21st-century L.A. Mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., Suite B, West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 Map H12

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WESTSIDE THE APPLE PAN > Quick Bites $$ Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu-Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 Map K10 STK > Steak $$$ The One Group’s renowned steakhouse at the W hotel in Westwood offers starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 Map J10

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LADINING THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak.

The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights.

Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

GRATITUDE KITCHEN AND BAR Love Serve Remember—parent company of Café Gratitude (which has locations in Larchmont Village, downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Venice) and Gracias Madre in West Hollywood— brings an upscale iteration of its plant-based concepts to Beverly Hills with Gratitude Kitchen and Bar. Just like its flagship location in Newport Beach, Gratitude offers a seasonally rotating menu crafted by executive chef Seizan Dreux Ellis that’s designed to support health and sustainability for the community and the planet. And just like the cuisine, the curated cocktail program uses organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s all served in a light-filled, 3675-square-foot space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

419 Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 424.389.1850 • gratitudekitchenandbar.com

YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR James Beard Award-nominated restaurant, Yardbird is a bastion of regional Southern fare. The look at the Beverly Center spot is clean-lined and contemporary—with fun exceptions: “Run, chicken, run,” for instance, is scrawled on a cleaver over the open kitchen. Start with biscuits—actually, start with blackberry bourbon lemonade—perhaps chicken biscuits with pepper jelly or smoked-brisket biscuits with house-made barbecue sauce; mention Where magazine and receive complimentary Famous Mama’s Biscuits. Among popular mains are Lewellyn’s Fine Fried Chicken with honey hot sauce, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and sweettea-braised short ribs. Finish with Pie in a Jar served in a Mason jar. Happy hour M-F (3-7 pm). L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 323.250.8034 • runchickenrun.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Cattle 10-ounce burger Summer kebab Lobster beef burger

CATTLE & CLAW Cattle & Claw, the sizzling SoCal Eatery located at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, presents the perfect balance between surf and turf dishes! Guests can enjoy a colorful selection of shareable appetizers and family-inspired entrées among the beautiful ambiance of the restaurant’s blooming garden patio. Guests seeking the ultimate decadence will be delighted by the Cattle & Claw’s two crowning achievements: the Lobster Burger, made with a full lobster tail and a grilled beef patty, and the Lobster Paella, a SoCal-take on the traditional Spanish dish topped with a whole Lobster. Come discover all the decadent specials and make the most of the gorgeous outdoor garden patio, ideal for a lunch with friends or a romantic dinner. Drop by Cattle & Claw’s famous Boozy Brunch every Sunday from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m to enjoy special brunch menu items like the lobster frittata, lobster Benedict, lobster waffles, egg burgers and more, and wash it all down with two hours of bottomless Mimosas or Lobster Bloody Marys while grooving to a live DJ set. Reservations recommended. L, D (daily).

Claw Lobster pizza Lobster ravioli Lobster paella Combos Two lobster rolls, two 10-ounce burgers, whole lobster, fries, salad Drinks Lobster bloody mary Mason-jar cocktails Margarita

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.770.1654 cattleandclaw.com

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THE GUIDE / ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL EVENTS

VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC, LOS ANGELES Oct. 5 Picnic, sip Champagne and see professional polo led by world-renowned Argentine polo player Nacho Figueras at the 10th annual L.A. edition of this sporting event, which regularly attracts A-listers. Event is 21+. 11 am-5 pm; match starts at 2 pm. $90-$500. Ticket purchase includes shuttle transportation between check-in lot and event grounds. All tickets must be purchased through Eventbrite. Will Rogers State Historic Park, 1501 Will Rogers State Park Road, Pacific Palisades, vcpoloclassic.com Map J8

The Plaza for All

Following a 20-month, $41 million renovation, The Music Center Plaza is back with a fresh design and new amenities. In addition to doubling the plaza’s occupancy and improving its accessibility, the overhaul added a welcome center, permanent public restrooms and three new dining destinations: full-service restaurant Abernethy’s, the Mullin Wine Bar and “third wave” coffee bar Go Get Em Tiger. The plaza’s programming is getting a boost, too: Among its expanded calendar of free and low-cost events is Grand Park Downtown Día de los Muertos, a large-scale nine-day art installation on the plaza and adjacent Grand Park that kicks off with Noche de Ofrenda, or Night of the Offerings, on Oct. 26. Visitors can check out altars and sculptures on their own or with free guided lunchtime tours. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, musiccenter.org

STREET FOOD CINEMA Oct. 5, 12, 19-20, 26 This outdoor film series hosts screenings at various locations across L.A., including Los Angeles State Historic Park and Will Rogers State Historic Park. This month’s spooky lineup includes Ghostbusters and Beetlejuice. Also enjoy live music and food trucks. See website for a full schedule and start times. $6-$23, under 6 free. 323.254.5068, streetfoodcinema.com CICLAVIA—HEART OF L.A. CELEBRATING UCLA100 Oct. 6 During this eco-friendly event, several miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour of the city’s most celebrated attractions. October’s route, which celebrates UCLA’s centennial, travels through Westlake, Chinatown, Little Tokyo, Boyle Heights and DTLA (where UCLA originally began as a teachers college). See website for route details. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org BEVERLY HILLS ARTSHOW Oct. 19-20 This long-running outdoor art showcase displays artwork from over 245 exhibitors twice a year. Wine and beer gardens and food trucks are also on-site. Check website for times. Free. Beverly Gardens Park, along Santa Monica Boulevard from Rodeo to Rexford drives, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830, beverlyhills.org Map J11 CINESPIA Oct. 19, 27 Watch films projected on a mausoleum wall during this popular Amazon Studios-sponsored film series at Hollywood Forever Cemetery, which continues into October with scary screenings of The Sixth Sense and The Texas Chainsaw Massacre. See website for full schedule and door and movie times. $18$20. Parking $12-$20. 6000 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., cinespia.org Map H14 BREWERY ARTWALK Oct. 26-27 This biannual art walk takes place in the world’s largest art complex, located in a former Pabst Blue Ribbon brewery. More than 100 participating resident artists who live in the brewery’s lofts open up their studios to showcase their work. 11 am6 pm. Free. 2100 N. Main St., L.A., 323.638.9382, breweryartwalk.com Map east of G17 WEST HOLLYWOOD HALLOWEEN CARNAVAL Oct. 31 Hundreds of thousands hit the streets of West Hollywood for its incomparable annual costume bash.

Expect live music, DJs, dancing, local eats and parties along the route. Not recommended for kids. 6-10:30 pm.

Free. Santa Monica Boulevard between North Doheny Drive and La Cienega Boulevard, 323.848.6400, visitwesthollywood.com Map H12 LOS ANGELES HAUNTED HAYRIDE All month This popular Griffith Park attraction takes thrill-seekers on a

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events............. 62

Studio Tapings............ 66

Theater........................ 62

Museums..................... 66

Music + Dance.............. 64

Shopping....................... 70

Sports.......................... 64

Nightlife....................... 70

Attractions................... 64

Beaches....................... 72

Studio Tours................ 66

Explore......................... 74

ride through the Old Zoo, where they’ll enter Midnight Falls—an eerie and mysterious fictitious town set in 1985 where time stands still and it’s always Halloween.

Every attraction has been entirely redesigned this year; new draws include escape rooms, additional mazes and a haunted house. Check website for dates and times. $34.99-$109. 4730 Crystal Springs Ave., Griffith Park, L.A., losangeleshauntedhayride.com Map U23 MELROSE ROOFTOP THEATRE All month For October, this alfresco film series is screening a mix of scary movies Sunday through Thursday nights on the rooftop of hot spot E.P. & L.P. Enjoy food, specialty cocktails and views of the Hollywood Hills. Come in costume for the Oct. 31 screening of Hocus Pocus. VIP Dinner & a Movie package offers a three-course modern Asian meal at E.P. Dinner & a Movie 6:30 pm; theater opens 7:30 pm; movie 8:30 pm. $27.50-$65. E.P. & L.P., 603 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.9955, melroserooftoptheatre.com Map I12 ROOFTOP CINEMA CLUB All month The U.K.’s “Number One Outdoor Cinema Series” returns to the rooftops of Hollywood’s private NeueHouse and downtown‘s Level for its fifth season in L.A. Fill up on street food and drinks while you take in views and enjoy horror flicks (including Poltergeist and Midsommar) and family-friendly Halloween films this month. See website for full lineup and schedule.

Ages 18+. $17-$25. 6121 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; 888 S. Olive St., downtown, rooftopcinemaclub.com/los-angeles Map W21, I16

THEATER BLUE MAN GROUP Through Oct. 6 The world-renowned bald and blue trio is making its L.A. debut with a show featuring new and original compositions, acts and instruments alongside iconic Blue Man Group moments. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 ANASTASIA Oct. 8-27 This new musical inspired by beloved films about Anastasia is from the Tony-winning creators of Broadway classic Ragtime. This month, the lost Russian grand duchess’s “journey to the past” journeys to L.A. for the first time. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 SKINTIGHT Through Oct. 12 Joshua Harmon’s new comedy is a neurotic family drama about how to age gracefully. Tony winner Idina Menzel plays Jodi, a woman who retreats to her dad’s Manhattan townhouse after her ex-husband gets engaged to a much younger woman—only to find her dad’s new 20-year-old live-in boyfriend. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10

> Business magnate Howard Hughes once owned the Pantages Theatre—and some say his ghost can still be found hard at work in his office there.

TIM STREET-PORTER

OKTOBERFEST Oct. 4-27 L.A.’s oldest Oktoberfest turns 51 this year and is celebrating with a “bier-hall” style throwback event. The German marketplace provides traditional Bavarian fun including Germany’s Haderlumpen band, dancing and traditional food and beer. F-Sa 21+, Su all ages. F-Sa 6 pm-midnight; Su 1-6 pm. $10-$20. Alpine Village, 833 W. Torrance Blvd., Torrance, 310.327.4384, alpinevillagecenter.com Map M15

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I M M E R S I V E P H O T O G R A P H Y A N D V I D E O BY A G R O U N D B R E A K I N G A R T I S T

ON VIEW THROUGH FEB. 16, 2020 Get tickets at thebroad.org

Shirin Neshat, Land of Dreams video still, 2019. © Shirin Neshat/Courtesy the artist and Gladstone Gallery, New York and Brussels

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ENTERTAINMENT

SISTERS IN LAW Through Oct. 13 This work, having its West Coast premiere here, explores the friendship between the U.S. Supreme Court’s first two female justices, Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Sandra Day O’Connor. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11 LATIN HISTORY FOR MORONS Through Oct. 20 After a critically acclaimed Broadway run, Tony and Emmy winner John Leguizamo brings his smart and hilarious one-man show to L.A., shedding light on America’s unsung heroes. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 LITTLE SHOP OF HORRORS Through Oct. 20 This production of the classic sci-fi musical comedy features some devious new twists and stars George Salazar (Be More Chill), Mj Rodriguez (Pose) and Amber Riley (Glee). Pasadena Playhouse, 39 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.356.7529 Map Q20 THE THANKSGIVING PLAY Opening Oct. 22 In Larissa FastHorse’s biting satire, three “woke” white thespians struggle with the task of helming an elementary-school pageant about the first Thanksgiving. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 THE NEW ONE Opening Oct. 23 Comedian Mike Birbiglia (Sleepwalk With Me) takes the stage at the Ahmanson to tell a new story in a new way—and Lin-Manuel Miranda and John Mulaney are already raving about it. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 ON BECKETT Through Oct. 27 Master clown and Tony-winning actor Bill Irwin explores a performer’s relationship to Samuel Beckett’s language during this intimate, 90-minute evening. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR Opening Oct. 29 Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s iconic musical about the final weeks in the life of Jesus Christ is reborn in this 50th anniversary, Olivier Award-winning production. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

MUSIC + DANCE AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY BALLET Opening Oct. 4 Inferno & Burlesque. The Fashion Theater at

CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA Oct. 3 Chick Corea: Trilogy, with Christian McBride and Brian Blade. Oct. 6 Sankai Juku: Meguri: Teeming Sea, Tranquil Land, directed, choreographed and designed by Ushio Amagatsu. Oct. 11-12 Ain Gordon: 217 Boxes of Dr. Henry Anonymous (Freud Playhouse). Oct. 12 Max Richter, premiering material from his forthcoming album and From Sleep, with American Contemporary Music Ensemble and Grace Davidson. Oct. 13 Samin Nosrat in Conversation With Lindy West. Oct. 18-19 Maya Beiser/Wendy Whelan/Lucinda Childs/David Lang: THE DAY. Royce Hall, 340 Royce Drive, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Oct. 2, 6 La Bohème, L.A. Opera, composed by Giacomo Puccini, conducted by James Conlon. Oct. 12-13, 17-20 The Light in the Piazza, L.A. Opera, starring Renée Fleming and Dove Cameron. Oct. 20 Javier Camarena in recital with pianist Angel Rodriguez, L.A. Opera. Oct. 24-27 Mariinsky Ballet: George Balanchine’s Jewels, with live music

by Mariinsky Orchestra. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 FORD THEATRES Oct. 1 John Prine. Oct. 5 Game Theory: The Indie Game Symphony. Oct. 11 The Ford Theatres in association with CAP UCLA presents Hassan Hajjaj: My Rock Stars Experimental—Live! Oct. 12 We Are KING. Oct. 19-20 Día de los Muertos Community Celebration; Lila Downs’ Día de los Muertos: Al Chile, with Grandeza Mexicana Folk Ballet Company and Mariachi Femenil Flores Mexicanas. 2580 Cahuenga Blvd. E., Hollywood, 323.461.3673 Map G14 THE FORUM Oct. 5 Peter Frampton: Finale—The Farewell Tour. Oct. 11 Babymetal. Oct. 20 Anuel AA: Emmanuel World Tour. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 GREEK THEATRE Oct. 4 Marina: Love + Fear Tour.

Oct. 5 Barbara Mason: Yes, I’m Ready 55th Anniversary. Oct. 6 Silvestre Dangond and Jessi Uribe. Oct. 10 Reik. Oct. 11 Rezz: Beyond the Senses Tour. Oct. 12 Bastille. Oct. 17 Rocketman: Live in Concert, featuring a special performance by Elton John and Taron Egerton with the Hollywood Symphony Orchestra. Oct. 22-23 Luke Combs: Beer Never Broke My Heart Tour. Oct. 25 Hozier. Oct. 26-27 Incubus: 20 Years of Make Yourself & Beyond. Oct. 29-30 Thom Yorke: Tomorrow’s Modern Boxes. 2700 N. Vermont Ave., Griffith Park, L.A., 323.665.5857 Map V22 HOLLYWOOD BOWL Oct. 2 Vampire Weekend: Father of the Bride Tour, with Tinariwen, Richard Pictures. Oct. 4 Marco Antonio Solis: El Querido Tour 2019. Oct. 5 Live Concert Experience: Game of Thrones, music by Ramin Djawadi. Oct. 6 Van Morrison, with Melod Gardot.

Oct. 10 Lana Del Rey’s Norman Rockwell Tour. Oct. 11, 13, 24 The Who: Moving On! Oct. 12 Logic: Confessions of a Dangerous Mind Tour, with J.I.D, YBN Cordae. Oct. 16 Ms. Lauryn Hill and H.E.R. Oct. 20-21 Jonas Brothers: Happiness Begins Tour. Oct. 26 Morrissey with very special guest Interpol. Check website for lease-event house rules. 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000, hollywoodbowl.com Map G13

THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL Oct. 3-4 Werk It! A Women’s Podcast Festival. Oct. 5 Bowie’s Piano Man: Heroes. Oct. 8-9 Brittany Howard. Oct. 11 Nate Bargatze. Oct. 12 Zaz. Oct. 13 Claudia Oshry. Oct. 16 City and Colour. Oct. 20 Stereolab. Oct. 22 Rick Wakeman. Oct. 24 Devendra Banhart. Oct. 25-27, 30-31 Psycho—Live With Orchestra. Oct. 26 A Hitchcock Halloween. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16

LARI PITTMAN, TRANSUBSTANTIAL AND NEEDY, 1991. ACRYLIC AND ENAMEL ON MAHOGANY. 82 × 66 IN. (208.3 × 167.6 CM). PRIVATE COLLECTION, COURTESY OF REGEN

A PLAY IS A POEM Through Oct. 13 This new collection of one-acts by celebrated playwright and filmmaker Ethan Coen takes an eccentric look at life across America—traveling from a gazebo in Mississippi to the executive suites of Hollywood. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

California Market Center, 110 E. 9th St., downtown, 213.304.3408 Map I16

WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Oct. 3-6 Dudamel Conducts American Icons, with Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet, Julia Bullock. Oct. 8 Beethoven’s Late Genius, with members of the L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 10-13 Dudamel Conducts Copland, with conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Sergio Tiempo. Oct. 12 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: Copland’s America. Oct. 15 Conversations With Nick Cave: An Evening of Talk & Music. Oct. 18-19 Salonen Conducts Tchaikovsky & Bartók, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, violinist Daniel Lozakovich. Oct. 19-20 Bruckner’s Great Mass, with Los Angeles Master Chorale, conductor Grant Gershon. Oct. 24 Centennial Birthday Celebration Concert & Gala, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductors Gustavo Dudamel, Zubin Mehta and Esa-Pekka Salonen. Oct. 25 Mehta’s Mahler, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Zubin Mehta, soprano Kristin Lewis, L.A. Master Chorale. Oct. 26 Salonen & Sibelius, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, soprano Golda Schultz.

Oct. 27 Beethoven’s Ninth With Dudamel, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, soprano Golda Schultz, Tambuco Percussion Ensemble, L.A. Master Chorale. Oct. 29 Chamber Music for Brass and Strings, with members of the L.A. Philharmonic. Oct. 30 Joshua Bell, with pianist Alessio Bax. Oct. 31 Halloween Organ & Film, with organist Clark Wilson. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

SPORTS BANC OF CALIFORNIA STADIUM Oct. 6 Los Angeles Football Club vs. Colorado Rapids. 3939 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 323.648.6060 Map K15 DIGNITY HEALTH SPORTS PARK Oct. 6 NFL: Los Angeles Chargers vs. Denver Broncos. Oct. 12 Chivas Guadalajara vs. Club Leon. Oct. 13 NFL: Chargers vs.

Pittsburgh Steelers. Oct. 19 Los Angeles Galaxy II vs.

El Paso Locomotive FC. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15 LOS ANGELES MEMORIAL COLISEUM Oct. 13 Los Angeles Rams vs. San Francisco 49ers. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15 STAPLES CENTER Oct. 4 WWE SmackDown 20th Anniversary. Oct. 10 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Denver Nuggets—Preseason. Oct. 12 Los Angeles Kings vs.

Nashville Predators. Oct. 13 Clippers vs. Melbourne United—Preseason; Kings vs. Vegas Golden Knights. Oct. 14 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors—Preseason. Oct. 15 Kings vs. Carolina Hurricanes. Oct. 16 Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors—Preseason. Oct. 17 Kings vs. Buffalo Sabres. Oct. 19 Kings vs. Calgary Flames. Oct. 22 Clippers vs. Los Angeles Lakers. Oct. 25 Lakers vs.

Utah Jazz. Oct. 27 Lakers vs. Charlotte Hornets. Oct. 28 Clippers vs. Charlotte Hornets. Oct. 29 Lakers vs. Memphis Grizzlies. Oct. 30 Kings vs. Vancouver Canucks.

Oct. 31 Clippers vs. San Antonio Spurs. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

ATTRACTIONS

REDCAT Oct. 1 A Farewell to Angela Ricci Lucchi With Yervant Gianikian. Oct. 3-5 Angel City Jazz Festival.

Oct. 7 Lana Lin: The Cancer Journals Revisited. Oct. 11 “Shadows Crossing: Tones of Voice Continued,” a lecture

by Cedar Sigo. Oct. 12 2019 Eyeworks Festival of Experimental Animation. Oct. 18-25 WITKACY / Two-Headed Calf. 631 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.237.2800 Map H16

AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea lions and 11,000 other animals.

Daily 9 am-6 pm. $24.95-$34.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16

STAPLES CENTER Oct. 11 Chris Brown. Oct. 18 Kane Brown. Oct. 26 J Balvin. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

BARNSDALL ART PARK Features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery The-

MATTHEW MURPHY

John Leguizamo in Latin History for Morons, at the Ahmanson through Oct. 20

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LARI PITTMAN

Declaration of Independence

Sep 29, 2019–Jan 5, 2020

1 MUSEUM

10899 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA @hammer_museum | FREE ADMISSION

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LARI PITTMAN, TRANSUBSTANTIAL AND NEEDY, 1991. ACRYLIC AND ENAMEL ON MAHOGANY. 82 × 66 IN. (208.3 × 167.6 CM). PRIVATE COLLECTION, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES. © LARI PITTMAN, COURTESY OF REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES

ATTRACTIONS endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction.

Find over 125 figures including celebrities and pop icons, plus 4-D and VR adventures. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark established in 1934 boasts 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13

atre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: Th-Su 11 am-4 pm.

Hollyhock House tours $3-$7. 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031 Map W22 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Ongoing exhibit follows the ship’s history through World War II, Korean War and Cold War. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest, the Japanese Garden and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm. $4-$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean and new Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $98-$149, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781. Historic buildings include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign.

Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES This project from the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs features an exhibition gallery and a Monozukuri Shop with a curated selection of Japanese products, plus a café, a restaurant, a library, an event venue and views of L.A. Su 10 am-7 pm; M-Sa 10 am-8 pm. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Levels 2 and 5, L.A., 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles Map H13 L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft, restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them

OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track, with a pro driving coach riding shotgun. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Tours, shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. Visit tclchinesetheatres.com or call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the new Jurassic World—The Ride; multisensory DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda; the Wizarding World of Harry Potter; and the Simpsons Ride. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. Call or check website for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377, universalstudioshollywood.com Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating major studio.

Reservations recommended. See website for schedule.

Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under

16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramountstudiotour.com Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $50, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Sets from The Big Bang Theory were recently added to the Stage 48: Script to Screen interactive soundstage; visitors can sit in Sheldon’s “spot” on the couch. Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. Parking $12. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live!, The Late Late Show With James Corden and The Voice, as well as special events. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, on-camera-audiences.com

MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free.

Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm.

Permanent gallery, free; admission for Imax varies. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. Cash only. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9

SVETLANA AVVAKUM © STATE ACADEMIC MARIINSKY THEATRE

Mariinsky Ballet, at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion from Oct. 24-27 (p. 64)

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Burbank Media District

Tocaya Organica

Simmzy’s

Veggie Grill

Coffee Commissary

Sotta

Le Pain Quotidien

Burbank’s famed Media District combines world-class production studios with exciting dining options. Whatever you’re craving, Burbank satisfies!

For more information, please go to VisitBurbank.com

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ATTRACTIONS GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm.

Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm.

Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART MUSEUM, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 KIDSPACE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Celebrating 40 years, this museum for kids ages 1-10 offers more than 40 fun hands-on exhibits, programs and monthly events on almost 3.5 acres of indoor and outdoor space. M-F 9:30 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $14, under 1 free. 480 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.9144 Map Q18 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. Chris Burden’s Urban Light installation welcomes museumgoers. M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building.

Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm. Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in two facilities: MOCA Grand Avenue and the Geffen Contemporary. M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. $8-$15, under 12 free. MOCA Grand Avenue, 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, 152 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.772.2506 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcy-

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

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SHOPPING

BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall just completed a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored

by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Angler from chef Joshua Skenes, Cal Mare, Farmhouse and Easy’s diner. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and new Charlotte Tilbury and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel, all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 PALISADES VILLAGE The newest shopping destination from Caruso (the Grove, Americana at Brand) is an upscale walkable village home to over 40 uniquely curated boutiques including Amazon Books, Jennifer Meyer and Veronica Beard, as well as fresh dining options and a restored historic movie theater. 15225 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 310.525.1380 Map K7 PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (The Edit by Freda Salvador + Janessa Leoné, Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. Delicious dining options include Loqui and Brooklyn import Roberta’s. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11 THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at the south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Lorna Jane and Rimowa, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6

AR Y ER S

WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Petrossian, Porsche Design) in LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldairports.com/lax Map O10

LEGENDS

NIV

THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Toms and & Other Stories are among the 90 or so stores. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23

TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

AN

SHOPPING

20 CENTURY

TH

SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays.

2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Converse, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8

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cles. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of newly expanded and renovated vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores including Compartés Chocolatier and Equipment; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898 Map J11

NIGHTLIFE 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12

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ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. Pouring With Heart’s Arts District brewery and tasting room with classic bar games and an outdoor patio. 828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887 Map I17 BASEMENT TAVERN Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469 Map M8 BOOTSY BELLOWS H.Wood Group’s nightclub with burlesque shows and other live entertainment boasts a gorgeous new Palm Springs-inspired design. 9229 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.7500 Map H12 BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment (Break-dancing? Moonwalking? Check and check). 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8 DOHENY ROOM Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group offers a diverse menu by Cleo chef Danny Elmaleh. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12

Face your fears! Come visit the Real Deal!

Guests who bravely venture into The Hollywood Museum in full Halloween costume on the day of Oct. 26-27, and Oct. 31-Nov. 3 (10am-5pm) will receive $5 off the regular admission price.

HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar from the 1933 Group. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13 LA DESCARGA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservations recommended.

Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 LAUGH FACTORY Famed comedy nightclub regularly hosts the biggest names in stand-up. 8001 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12, N16 MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12

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BEACHES + PARKS NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building overlooking Pershing Square; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is below. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope is hidden in the back and features more than 120 premium whiskeys.

515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13 UPSTAIRS Bar with stunning city views atop Ace Hotel, in the historic United Artists Building. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16

BEACHES DOCKWEILER STATE BEACH 3.7 miles of ocean frontage and 255 acres of beach near LAX. Bonfires permitted. 12501 Vista del Mar, Playa del Rey Map C1 EL MATADOR STATE BEACH One of the prettiest beaches in L.A. County. Steep stairs lead to 18 acres of narrow, sandy beach with scenic rock formations.

32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 HERMOSA BEACH 2-mile stretch of beach along Santa Monica Bay with combination bike path/boardwalk and pier. Hermosa Avenue and 33rd Street, Hermosa Beach Map L13 LEO CARRILLO STATE BEACH 1.5 miles of beach for swimming, surfing, windsurfing, surf fishing, plus tide pools, coastal caves and reefs for exploring. 36000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH 167-acre beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider Beach, the Adamson House and a museum. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9

Connect with wildlife at the L.A. Zoo! Enjoy amazing up-close views of otters, gorillas, jaguars, stingrays, and more, plus interactive experiences like giraffe feedings. Around here, fun just comes naturally.

Open daily. Free parking.

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MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is dotted with beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring the recently renovated Roundhouse Aquarium. 4004500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 POINT DUME STATE BEACH Cliffs and rocky coves border this beach, one of the most beautiful along the L.A. coastline. 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu Map northwest of K9 REDONDO BEACH A 1.5-mile beach that runs south of the pier to Torrance Beach. 400-1700 Esplanade, Redondo Beach Map M13 SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH 3.5-mile-long beach features wide, sandy expanses divided by the iconic Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8 TOPANGA BEACH Rocky and narrow Malibu beach is a popular surfing spot but unsafe for swimming. 18700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Topanga Map northwest of K9 VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions.

The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” 2700-3100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9 WILL ROGERS STATE BEACH Sandy 3-mile beach is starting point for the Marvin Braude Bike Trail. Popular

• Over 200 authentic artifacts discovered this decade from two ancient cities lost to the Mediterranean Sea over 1,200 years ago • 3 Colossal 16’ sculptures including the Hapi, Pharaoh and Queen • Stunning ancient religious, ceremonial and commercial artifacts • Precious gold coins and jewelry, bronze vessels and more

Organised with the Institut Européen d’Archéologie Sous-Marine with the generous support of the Hilti Foundation and in collaboration with the Ministry of Antiquities of the Arab Republic of Egypt Photo: Christoph Gerigk © Franck Goddio/Hilti Foundation

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EXPLORE for swimming and skin diving; volleyball courts. 17700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades Map K7 ZUMA BEACH The ultimate SoCal beach. Food stands at each end of its 4-mile expanse along PCH. 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K7

EXPLORE AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com

NATURE, ART, CULTURE 626-405-2240 | Pasadena-adjacent Tours@huntington.org

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Victims of Nazism at FC Bayern Munich

DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium allows guests to visit the field, dugout and more. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 EXOTICS RACING LOS ANGELES SUPERCAR TOUR Known for top-notch driving experiences, Exotics Racing lets you explore Los Angeles while enjoying the luxurious drive of a Ferrari 488, a Lamborghini Huracan, a McLaren 570S and a Maserati Gran Turismo. Tours offered Su-F 8:30 am-7 pm. 120 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.220.2671, exoticsracing.com Map M8 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from sunset dinner, cocktail and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 855.290.0383, hornblower. com Map O9 METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties.

Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day, as well as tours to beaches, theme parks and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13

ON EXHIBIT NOW LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST 100 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90036 • 323.651.3704 www.lamoth.org • Admission always free

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Westwa

Westways Magazine Ad August 2019.indd 1 75-79_Maps_WLA.indd 79

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30 THINGS WE LOVE THIS MONTH

9

23

4 1 Customized facials by A-listfavorite Shani Darden at her new studio. shanidarden.com 2 Rocketman: Live in Concert

at the Greek Theatre—with Elton John and Taron Egerton— on Oct. 17 ... p. 64

3 ... right after a three-course

pre-show “Greek” dinner at Los Feliz‘s Atrium. 323.607.6944

4 Midcentury-inspired planters at NewMade LA. p. 9 5 Bowling a few games at 1933

Group’s gorgeously refurbished Highland Park Bowl. p. 10

6 Rooftop Cinema Club‘s lineup of spooky Halloween films. p. 62

9 The Strong Medicine cocktail menu—including the roseinfused Opium—at District, at the Bloc in DTLA. 213.612.3185 10 Discovering the science

behind horror icons at Natural History of Horror at the Natural History Museum. p. 68

11 Trading “boo”s for brews at Alpine Village’s Oktoberfest— the oldest in Los Angeles. p. 62

16 Worth-the-wait dogs at Pink’s Hot Dogs. p. 56

17 Feminine styles at Veronica Beard’s sunny new boutique at Palisades Village. p. 70

18 Spanish octopus with pasta e fagioli at chef Brendan Collins’ newest restaurant, Fia, in Santa Monica. p. 8

23 Eye-catching pieces by L.A. artist Lari Pittman, on display at the Hammer Museum. p. 14

24 Fall styles at French label

ba&sh’s new Malibu Country Mart boutique. 424.235.2339

25 Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s tasting menu at Trois Mec. p. 19

19 Refreshing cocktails paired

12 Date night at cozy Firefly in Studio City. 818.762.1833

with Michelin-starred seafood at chef Michael Cimarusti’s Providence. p. 19

26 Getting design inspo at the WestEdge Design Fair, Oct. 24-27 at Santa Monica’s Barker Hangar. westedgedesignfair.com

13 Pizzaiolo Daniele Uditi’s

20 H.Wood Group nightclub

27 Catching a screening at ArcLight Hollywood’s historic Cinerama Dome. 323.464.1478

neo-Neapolitan pies at Pizzana’s new West Hollywood outpost.

310.657.4662

14 Potato balls from the new-

Bootsy Bellows’ new Palm Springs-inspired design. p. 70

21 Adobada tacos and vampiros

7 Cutting-edge cuisine from Michelin-starred Somni. p. 19

est location of Porto’s Bakery & Cafe, in West Covina. p. 46

at Tijuana-style taco stand Tacos 1986’s new permanent DTLA location. p. 40

8 Hair-raising scares inside the

15 Warm caviar on banana

22 Stepping back in time at

Stranger Things maze at Universal Studios Hollywood’s Halloween Horror Nights. p. 66

29

pancakes at Bay Area chef Joshua Skenes’ new Angler at the Beverly Center. p. 52

the newly reopened Formosa, where you can dine in a 1904 red trolley car. 323.850.1009

28 The Infinity Coral exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific’s new Pacific Visions wing. p. 64

29 Sustainable, L.A.-made

apparel at Whimsy + Row’s first brick-and-mortar boutique. p. 22

30 Treasure hunting at Stars Antique Market. p. 48

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler® is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

4, COURTESY NEWMADE LA; 9, COURTESY DISTRICT; 18, MICHAEL GRECCO; 23, LARI PITTMAN, HOW SWEET THE DAY AFTER THIS AND THAT, DEEP SLEEP IS TRULY WELCOMED, 1988, COLLECTION OF MATTHEW C. AND IRIS LYNN STRAUSS, RANCHO SANTA FE, CALIFORNIA. © LARI PITTMAN, COURTESY REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES; 29, COURTESY WHIMSY + ROW

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