Where GuestBook San Diego 2012

where GUESTBOOK SAN DIEGO

where GUESTBOOK

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Welcome to SAN DIEGO

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S.D. eSSenCe 24 Off THE WallS

la JOlla MURalS Ryan McGinness and John Baldessari are but a few big-name artists splashing color across La Jolla’s public spaces.

36 REVEnGE Of THE nERdS

46 zEn and THE aRT Of EaTinG TacOS

THE STORy Of cOMic-cOn How a once-small, geeky comic book convention took over the world. By nina GaRin

pERSOnal ESSay Author and La Jollan Mike Sager waxes poetic on San Diego’s signature dish.

By ValERiE ScHER

40 HERiTaGE HOUSE

50 Q&a

30 fanTaSy fúTBOl

HiSTORic aRcHiTEcTURE A peek inside Balboa Park’s Marston House.

By ValERiE ScHER

TiJUana SOccER The ascendant Xoloitzcuintles are giving Tijuana something to cheer for. By adaM EldER

34 iT’S in THE BaG

ndREW ziMMERn a The Travel Channel host on our region’s most bizarre foods.

By Maya KROTH

44 SEcRETS Of THE dEEp

52 HOW SWEET iT iS

faSHiOn dESiGn Rebecca Minkoff is fashion’s new “it” girl. By nina GaRin

WEiRd SciEncE With a little help from his friends at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, filmmaker James Cameron made history.

By Will caRlESS

nOSTalGic dESSERTS Inspired by childhood favorites, local pastry chefs are creating modern masterpieces.

By MaRia c. HUnT

(cOVER) MUSEUM Of cOnTEMpORaRy aRT San diEGO pHOTO By EdWin SanTiaGO. (OpEninG SpREad) ROBERT BEnSOn; (THiS paGE, l-R) dHanRaJ EManUEl, paUl BOdy, STEVE HEnKE

cOnTEnTS

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NAHO-3

Our Maile Leaf Pendant Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in various 14K Gold and Mother-of-Pearl combinations

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cOnTEnTS

S.D. eSSentialS 58 nEIGHBORHOODS

61 SPEnDInG TIME

MUST-SEE ATTRAcTIOnS Ten city-defining destinations: The order depends entirely on your interests.

GUIDE TO S.D.’S A MOST VISITED AREAS San Diego comprises many communities, from the Gaslamp Quarter to La Jolla to the North Coast.

75 cHOW TIME

SHOPPInG

62 lOOK BOOK A photographic peek at the wares of S.D.’s top retailers.

64 RETAIl DETAIlS The region’s major shopping destinations and a selection of local boutiques and galleries.

DInInG A guide to the best restaurants in the city.

91 PlAY TIME

ARTS & ATTRAcTIOnS Museums, theater, theme parks, nightclubs and more make San Diego a playground for kids and adults alike.

(l-R) cATHERInE lAU, lIMElIFE PHOTOGRAPHY, FRAncIScO VEGA

10 FIRST lOOK

6 WH ER E G U ESTBOOK

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Get your Passport to Savings Receive the VIP Treatment at Westfield Horton Plaza

PUBLISHER Jeff Levy EDITOR Maya Kroth ART DIRECTOR Bree Berri ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Nicole Bordges MARKETING DIRECTOR Audrey Nimura CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Carol Wakano ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION ARTIST

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Will Carless, Adam Elder, Nina Garin, Maria C. Hunt, Mike Sager, Valerie Scher

Mention this ad at Westfield Horton Plaza’s Shopping Concierge Center to receive your VIP Passport to Savings Discount Book.

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Robert Benson, Paul Body, Max Dolberg, John Dole, Dhanraj Emanuel, Catherine Lau, Limelife Photography, Edwin Santiago, Joe Scarnici, Ashok Sinha, Ian White COPY EDITOR Claire Caraska EDITORIAL INTERN Brianna Dotson

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ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Joanna McLean, Heather Howard-Heintz, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano CIRCULATION MANAGER Jordan Fraser PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng INTERIM PRODUCTION MANAGER Catherine Lau WEB MANAGER Christina Xenos ADMINISTRATION

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VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES

Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550

MVP CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER HONORARY PRESIDENT

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3990 OLD TOWN AVE., SUITE B–200 SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA 92110 PHONE: 619.260.5599 FAX: 619.260.5598 EMAIL ADVERTISING Nicole.Bordges@SoCalMedia.com BUSINESS JLevy@SoCalMedia.com EDITORIAL Editor@SoCalMedia.com ART Art@SoCalMedia.com PRODUCTION Ads@SoCalMedia.com CIRCULATION Jordan.Fraser@SoCalMedia.com

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324 Horton Plaza San Diego, CA 92101 619.239.8180 Westfield.com

Where GuestBook San Diego is published by Southern California Media Group under license from Morris Visitor Publications. Where GuestBook publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Amelia Island, Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Beverly Hills, the Big Island, Bonita Springs, Boston, Boulder, Cambridge, Captiva Island, Charlotte, Chicago, Clearwater, Colorado Springs, Dallas, Denver, Fort Myers, Fort Worth, Greater Fort Lauderdale, Houston, Jacksonville, Kansas City, Kaua’i, Los Angeles, Marco Island, Maui, Memphis, Miami, Naples, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, O’ahu, Orange County, Orlando, Palm Beach, Philadelphia, Ponte Vedra Beach, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, St. Augustine, St. Petersburg, San Antonio, San Diego/La Jolla, San Francisco, Sanibel Island, Santa Barbara, Seattle/Eastside, Tacoma, Tampa, Tucson, Wailea, Washington, D.C., and Winston-Salem/Greensboro/High Point.

Copyright© 2012 by Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

Printed in the United States. Circulation audited by Audit Bureau of Circulations.

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cOnTRiBUTORS

8DINING 8ENTERTAINMENT

miKE SaGER

• Zen and the Art of Eating Tacos, p. 46 A bestselling author and award-winning reporter, Mike Sager has been called “the Beat poet of American journalism.” A former Washington Post staffer under Bob Woodward, he worked closely with gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson during his years at Rolling Stone. He has served for more than 15 years as a writer-at-large for Esquire. Many of his articles have been optioned for film. He lives with his son in La Jolla.

8SHOPPING 8SIGHTS

In SAN DIEGO and other fine cities.

ss

limElifE pHOTOGRapHy

ss adam EldER • Fantasy Fútbol, p. 30 Writer Adam Elder covers soccer for The New York Times’ Goal blog and writes about sports for Wired, Fox Sports and other outlets. He once spent nearly an entire childhood vacation in Hawaii indoors to watch all of the 1994 World Cup. A San Diego resident for the past 10 years, Elder is glad to finally have a “local” soccer team: Club Tijuana, which he profiles in this edition.

• Off the Walls, p. 24 • Zen and the Art of Eating Tacos, p. 46 Limelife’s Jesse and Becky Morquecho are a husband-andwife photo team that specializes in lifestyle photography.

“We have a thing for color and fish tacos,” Becky says.

“That made shooting for this edition extra fun. Oh, and Bahia Don Bravo’s tacos are just as tasty as they look.”

nina GaRin • It’s in the Bag, p. 34 • Revenge of the Nerds, p. 36 Nina Garin is a native San Diegan who has covered pop culture, film and fashion for newspapers and magazines. She’s been to six ComicCons, five Academy Award red carpets, four Twilight movies, three fashion weeks, two Yo Gabba Gabba concerts and one baseball game at Fenway Park. The key to surviving them all was two aspirins and a sense of humor. She’s married to a writer and comics nerd from Boston. They have two daughters who already love movies.

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firstlook THE CiTy’S TOp 10 mUST-SEE aTTRaCTiOnS, in nO paRTiCULaR ORdER. FROm BaSEBaLL TO THE BEaCH, SHOppinG TO SHamU, S.d.’S diVERSE aTTRiBUTES piQUE EVERy inTEREST.

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The Beaches

There’s a bit of everything along San Diego’s 70 miles of coastline, which stretches from the legendary surf break Trestles in the north to Border Field State Park in the south, where the rusty fence separating the U.S. from Mexico disappears into the sea. The wide, sandy swaths of La Jolla Shores and Coronado (pictured) practically beg for sandcastle-building, while people-watching is mandatory along the raucous Mission Beach boardwalk. Serious surfers are drawn to Swami’s and Windansea, while curiosity-seekers venture out to clothing-optional Blacks Beach to get acquainted with their inner exhibitionist (note: nudity’s not “officially sanctioned” here—but we won’t tell if you don’t).

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Animal Attractions

There’s no doubt about it: San Diego has animal magnetism. Begin the wildlife tour at the world-famous San Diego Zoo, whose creative, humane enclosures house many exotic species, from cuddly pandas to clever meerkats. Safari Park (formerly the Wild Animal Park) lets visitors get up-close and personal with beasts roaming through spacious tracts of open land. SeaWorld, with its rides and shows, is part theme park, part aquatic zoo, and home to dolphins, penguins and one famous killer whale. More sea creatures, including sharks and seahorses, are on display at the Birch Aquarium, perched on a bluff overlooking La Jolla. San Diego Zoo, 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515, sandiegozoo.org; Safari Park, 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 619.231.1515, sdzsafaripark.org; SeaWorld, 500 SeaWorld Drive, Mission Bay, 800.25.SHAMU, seaworld.com; Birch Aquarium,

The Bays In 1602, Spanish explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno described San Diego Bay as “a port which must be the best to be found in all the South Sea.” The bay remains important not only commercially and militarily but also recreationally. Sightseeing and dinner cruises navigate the bay daily, departing from the Cruise Ship Terminal, where one can also catch the ferry to Coronado. Elsewhere along the Embarcadero, historic vessels including the aircraft carrier USS Midway and the 1863 barque Star of India have become floating museums; the area is also home to Seaport Village, a shopping and entertainment complex complete with a 19thcentury carousel. On man-made Mission Bay—part of 4,600-acre Mission Bay Park—kayaks, Jet Skis, sailboats and catamarans ply the calm water as bikers, joggers and skaters cruise along the bayside paths. San Diego Bay, 619.686.6200, thebigbay.com

(OpEninG SpREad) EdWin SanTiaGO. (THiS paGE, TOp) CaTHERinE LaU, (BOTTOm) JOE SCaRniCi

2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.FISH, aquarium.ucsd.edu

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Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement | Flyback function | Automatic IWC double-pawl winding system | Date display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel | IWC. Engineered for men.

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World-Class Golf With more than 90 courses, it’s safe to say San Diego is more than a little enamored of the links. Still, it’s quality—not quantity— that counts; thankfully, some of the world’s most sought-after greens are located right here. From Mickelson to Woods, the Torrey Pines Golf Course (pictured) has been played by nearly every boldfaced name in golf, for it’s not only been home to an annual PGA tour stop for nearly four decades but also hosted the 2008 U.S. Open Championship on its legendary oceanview South Course. In Carlsbad, the Park Hyatt Aviara boasts San Diego’s only Arnold Palmer signature course, and La Costa Resort has hosted numerous PGA tour events. For tee times, call San Diego Golf Reservations, 866.717.6552.

Since 1969 San Diegans have supported their hometown Padres, a baseball team that gave rise to legends like Hall-of-Famer Tony Gwynn, who is immortalized in bronze in a statue just beyond center field. Across town, on the gridiron at Qualcomm Stadium, the NFL’s San Diego Chargers have charged their way into the playoffs multiple times under the guidance of coach Norv Turner, and up at the Del Mar Racetrack celebrities and socialites have been betting the ponies for 75 years. Racing season runs annually from mid-July to early September. Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., downtown, 877.FRIAR.TIX, padres.com; Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 877.CHARGERS, chargers.com; Del Mar Racetrack, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1141, delmarracing.com

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Spectator Sports

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Old Town San Diego’s earliest settlers and explorers nested here, from the Kumeyaay Indians 9,000 years ago to the Spanish missionaries that arrived in the 18th century. Billed as the “Birthplace of California,” Old Town features authentic historic structures within Old Town State Park, including the freshly restored Cosmopolitan Hotel and a lively entertainment complex, plus more contemporary diversions along surrounding streets. Find fresh-made tortillas grilling at the many restaurants lining San Diego Avenue, while the nearby shops at Bazaar del Mundo offer colorful collectibles celebrating Mexican heritage.

Other Old Town attractions include an enclave of preserved Victorian homes known as Heritage Park, the Mormon Battalion Historic Site, a cemetery and an honest-to-goodness haunted house (Whaley House Museum). San Diego Ave. at Twiggs St., 619.220.5422

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Craft Beer Beer tourism is one of the newest reasons visitors are flocking to San Diego, thanks to the more than 50 craft breweries that have sprung up around the county in recent years—there’s even an entire newspaper devoted to covering the burgeoning scene. Hopheads can tour the facilities and taste a variety of styles, including San Diego’s signature double IPA, from well-known, award-winning producers like Escondido’s Stone Brewing Co. and Karl Strauss, the city’s original microbrewery, or get to know smaller labels like the family-owned Iron Fist Brewing Co. (pictured) at a growing number of specialty bars, pubs and beer shops that cater to the discerning drinker. San Diego Beer Week, held annually in November, celebrates all things related to the holy hops. For information on breweries and beer events, see

Gaslamp Quarter Past and present collide in this 16-square-block area full of historic architecture and bustling nightlife. An erstwhile red-light district known as the Stingaree, the Gaslamp Quarter was also the onetime stomping ground of Wild West lawman Wyatt Earp. These days, Victorian-era outlaws have been replaced by 21st-century fun-seekers, who swarm the boutiques and galleries of Fifth Avenue by day and spill off the sidewalks by night in all their evening finery. With more than 125 restaurants, bars, nightclubs and cafés in the neighborhood, and the ballpark and Convention Center just steps away, the Gaslamp is this beach town’s undisputed urban center. Fourth, Fifth and Sixth avenues between Broadway and Harbor Drive, 619.233.5227, gaslamp.org

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Balboa Park The cultural heart of San Diego, Balboa Park is one of the largest urban parks in the country. The 1,200-acre patch of green at the city’s center, Balboa Park is home to no fewer than two dozen institutions celebrating the arts and humanities, including the San Diego Museum of Art, the San Diego Natural History Museum, the historic Old Globe Theatre and museums dedicated to nearly every topic imaginable, from photography and folk art to model trains, sports and aviation. In addition to stellar sightseeing, the park also offers plenty of hike and bike trails, a Japanese teahouse and friendship garden, an IMAX theater and the Spreckels Organ, the world’s largest outdoor musical instrument. Pack a picnic and settle in for a free, family-friendly concert, held Sundays at 2 pm. Balboa Park Visitors Center at the House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado #1, 619.239.0512, balboapark.org

Coronado Accessible by ferry or via the graceful Coronado Bridge, this charming village across the bay from downtown San Diego is home to one of the city’s most famous sites: the Hotel del Coronado. Known to locals simply as “the Del,” the resort’s still tell stories about the time Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis came here to film Some Like It Hot). But the rest of Coronado is worth exploring, too, either on foot or while bicycling along 15 miles of dedicated bike paths. Those that run up and down Silver Strand State Beach are especially scenic. Take a stroll down the wide, tree-lined boulevard running through the center of town, which is defined by quaint mom-and-pop shops, sidewalk cafés and an array of remarkable early 20th-century residential architecture, ranging in style from English Tudor to Craftsman to Spanish Colonial. Coronado Visitor Center, 1100 Orange Ave., 619.437.8788, coronadovisitorcenter.com

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OFF THE

WALLS

BY VALERIE SCHER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIMELIFE

In La Jolla, the posh seaside town north of downtown San Diego, art isn’t confined to galleries and museum exhibits. It’s also spectacularly displayed on the sides of buildings, thanks to the La Jolla Community Foundation’s Murals of La Jolla. Big in size as well as variety, the murals offer a journey into the unexpected, turning humdrum settings into places of discovery. In a parking lot on Herschel Avenue, for instance, you’ll see Ann Hamilton’s at sea, a monumental, 44-foot-tall work that depicts a ghostly sailing ship. On the opposite wall is Ryan McGinness’ 53 Women, a 108-foot-long triptych that makes female figures look like zany versions of Matisse cut-outs. “What distinguishes this project from other public art projects is the caliber of the artists,” says Lynda Forsha, a member of the advisory committee that chooses the artists. “They all have national reputations.” Between 2010 and mid-2012, a total of six murals were installed. Assuming the enthusiasm and funding continues, the project will keep adding new works. Want to see what’s on display? Go ahead and print out the map (available at muralsoflajolla.com). You can walk or drive from site to site.

Either way, you’ll savor one of Southern California’s classiest outdoor art shows.

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opening spread: For Favorite Color (2010), Roy McMakin had the wall’s 900 tiles painted in hues chosen by volunteers and passersby.

THIS PAGE, TOP: Ryan McGinness says that his drawings for 53 Women (2011) are “my version of what is sexy.” BOTTOM: The inspiration for Anya Gallaccio’s Surf’s up (2011) was a SUPERCLOSE-UP IMAGE OF A grain of sand as seen through a scanning electron microscope.

OPPOSITE: Ann Hamilton’s at sea (2012) is firmly anchored to a bank building in downtown La Jolla.

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OPPOSITE: KIm maccOnnEl’S Girl from ipanema (2010) waS ThE fIrST wOrK TO bE InSTallEd In ThE muralS Of la JOlla PrOJEcT. ThIS PaGE: clOSEST TO ThE OcEan IS JOhn baldESSarI’S Brain/Cloud (with SeaSCape and palm tree), cOmPlETEd In 2011.

whErE GuESTbOOK

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Fantasy Fútbol A skyrocketing soccer team finally gives Tijuana something to cheer about. BY adam elder They pour into the Estadio Caliente just before noon on a hot, late-summer Sunday. Fathers and sons, grandmas, packs of young males, nearly all wearing official redand-black jerseys. In a shaded makeshift luxury box sits the owner of the team flanked by his people and an array of local politicians, with his stadium before him, his casino rising beyond it and his expansive property and private zoo behind him. In a moment, Club Tijuana’s young, scruffy, several-hundred-strong “official” cheering section, La Massacr3 (The Massacre), complete with loud drums, large flags and inflammatory chants at the ready, will come storming in—just as the home team takes to the field.

The raucous support underlies the struggle and uncertainty that the residents of Tijuana had endured for several years—a nightmare that the booming border metropolis is just waking up from. The drug wars that have plagued Mexico and escalated since the Calderón administration took office hit Tijuana and other border cities especially hard. Tijuanenses woke up to daily news and gossip of murder, ransom kidnappings and occasional gun battles, a byproduct of the internecine triangular warfare between rival cartels and the military.

As tanks lined the major boulevards, the violence had a second, more sinister effect on the city: its local economy. As the violence increased, tourism—upon which Tijuana is so reliant—grinded to a halt.

Yet, in the midst of this darkness, a local source of pride slowly arose in the form of a soccer team. Club Tijuana Xoloitzcuintles de Caliente (named after an Aztec dog—and almost always known as Xolos for short) was formed in 2007 by a local former politician and Caliente casino owner, Jorge Hank Rhon, with the goal of competing in Mexico’s top soccer league, the Primera Division. For several years Xolos steadily gained promotion in each division until May 2011, when, in a playoff, they won the right to a seat at Mexico’s top table.

With that, Xolos became Tijuana’s first team ever in Mexico’s top soccer league. The significance was immediately palpable. Trying to find a car free of any Xolos sticker or adornment in Tijuana these days is a nearly impossible task.

And what a team it is. Far from playing conservatively and defensively like the standard blueprint for a new, inexperienced team, Xolos set out to excite. The team spent big on players in the hopes of staying in the

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the ascendant xoloitzcuintles of tijuana recently faced rival teams from monterrey (PREVIOUS SPREAD) and toluca (above). the team’s star midfielder, san diegan joe corona, 21 (opposite), was invited to play for the u.s.’ U-23 national team in its olympic qualifying bid.

division (at the end of the season, one team out of 20 gets relegated via a complicated set of stats compiled over several seasons, replaced by one team coming up from the division below).

They still found the going hard at first. “You have to grow up,” says Xolos sporting director Ignacio Palou of the team’s initial troubles. “Some players don’t have the experience of the first division, so they have to play a few games, get their feet on the ground and know how the first division is.”

They were winless in their first five games, and only three months into the season fired their coach, Joaquin del Olmo, who had won promotion with Xolos. New coach Antonio Mohamed stabilized the side and they finished the Apertura, or opening half-season (Mexico’s soccer league season is split in half, with playoffs and a champion for each one).

When the second half-season, the Clausura, opened in January, Xolos started clicking. Their savvy squad mix of high-priced South Americans and young, local talent began to shine, with the rock-solid Urguayan Egidio Arevalo controlling their midfield and the rest of the team breaking with speed and spreading the ball around.

Goalkeeper Cirilio Saucedo rose to the occasion, making Xolos the stingiest team in the league with the fewest goals conceded in the Clausura.

Incredibly, it got better, as Xolos finished in the top eight, and qualified for the playoffs. Even though they were knocked out in the first round to perennial powerhouse Monterrey, the loss was simply the end to a wild, Cinderella-like first season in the top flight.

And in a team consisting of a few established stars, a local 21-year-old speedy midfielder named Joe Corona grabbed the spotlight. Four years before, Corona was playing high school soccer for Sweetwater High School in San Diego, overlooked by the United States’ elite soccer academies and scouts. He played at San Diego State University, then quietly signed on with Tijuana during its climb to the Primera Division and helped them earn promotion.

Corona, who holds triple nationality (his mother is from El Salvador) was so widely acclaimed he was invited to play in the United States’ U-23 team and scored four goals, including a hat trick against Cuba, in the team’s

failed Olympic qualifying bid. With the question of which senior national team he’d play for still up in the air, he was then called up by U.S. national team coach Jurgen Klinsmann, and made his senior debut in May, which ties him to the United States’ team.

Like the city itself, Xolos’ stadium, Estadio Caliente, is very much a work in progress. During last season, concrete rebar extended from the sides of a luxury box in the corner—signs that, if Xolos remained safe for another season, more would be built extending across and above one stand. When all is complete, the stadium will seat 33,333—a favorite number of owner Jorge Hank Rhon.

Rhon, who also owns Caliente, one of Mexico’s largest casinos, is a former mayor of Tijuana, and is known throughout Mexico as much for his many possessions as for his reputation. He’s as quotable as Dos Equis beer’s Most Interesting Man in the World, and lives just like him. His massive property abuts the stadium, casino and its adjacent dog-racing track, and includes vast horse stables and a private zoo—reportedly with numerous exotic animals.

And with Xolos’ ascent, the city is reviving too. Ever since Prohibition, Tijuana has been well-known as a destination for vice-seeking Americans. The city’s main tourist drag, Avenida Revolución, for years a sensory overload of Mexican souvenir stands, gentleman’s clubs and gringo bars catering to the young, was a barren stretch of closed storefronts at the peak of the violence in 2008. As things have calmed, in its place have sprung up restaurants, nightlife and businesses catering to locals— almost as if Tijuanenses are taking back their city. Chefs like Javier Plascencia have been profiled in The New Yorker, and Anthony Bourdain recently visited Tijuana for his hit foodie show No Reservations.

“For a long time, Tijuana has been defined more by outsiders than by the people who actually live there,” says Adrian Florido, border reporter for KPBS public radio in San Diego. “In the face of the tourism vacuum that the drug violence has brought on, it created this opportunity for Tijuanenses to redefine the city for themselves. And the fact that they now have a first-rate soccer team has given people the chance to redefine the image of Tijuana for Tijuanenses as a truly Mexican city, and not a second-rate American city.”

Francisco Vega

“The Xolos have given Tijuana a chance to redefine itself as a truly Mexican city, not a second-rate American one.”

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IT’S IN THE SaN Diego-borN rebeCCa miNkoff iS faShioN’S New “it” girl by NiNa gariN

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Derek Storm /SplaSh NewS/CorbiS

a Rebecca Minkoff handbag says something...

Much like a Chanel suit defines someone with refined taste, or Alexander McQueen platforms indicate a sense of adventure, wearing Rebecca Minkoff tells its own story of modern sophistication.

“The person who wears Rebecca Minkoff is someone who loves and appreciates style,” says San Diego-based stylist and Minkoff fan Mahjuba Levine. “The price point is great for a person looking for something unique but doesn’t want to break her budget.”

For the last several years, the San Diego-born Rebecca Minkoff has built her brand by making a new generation of “it” bags in bright colors and with flirty names like Morning After, Nikki and Matinee. They’re fun enough to attract attention without going over the top. And unlike Louis Vuitton and Coach purses that incorporate logos as part of their design, Minkoff’s are logo-free.

Minkoff pieces are worn on the arms of young Hollywood stars like Kristen Stewart, Anna Paquin and Blake Lively. They’re equally beloved by trendsetters including Agyness Deyn and Alexa Chung.

But the beauty—and success—of Rebecca Minkoff is that you don’t have to break your budget to own one.

Young professionals can have one, too. While the ladies on Sex and the City coveted a $5,000 Hermes Birkin, Minkoff tapped into the post-recession lifestyle by selling her pieces for $500 and below, a tactic that’s helped the label prosper at a time when luxury is struggling.

The design house is also unique in that it communicates to its web-savvy customers through social media.

Minkoff is active on Twitter and Facebook, where she has hundreds of thousands of fans. She engages with them directly, posts backstage photos from fashion shows and even throws a secret party only open to fashion bloggers and Twitter followers.

This modern business approach is obviously working for Minkoff.

According to Women Presidents’ Organization, a nonprofit group made up of women entrepreneurs, revenues at Rebecca Minkoff LLC went from $5.5 million in 2008 to $17.5 million in 2010.

Now, Rebecca Minkoff’s collection includes women’s ready-to-wear, shoes and sunglasses. She shows her collection at New York Fashion Week. There’s even a men’s handbag line called Ben Minkoff, named after her grandfather who was a WWII fighter pilot.

The pieces are quickly becoming staples around the globe, including top San Diego boutiques, thanks to their California-inspired aesthetic.

“Rebecca Minkoff is California chic, easy-to-wear fabrics, stylish, yet not trendy,” explained Levine. “I typically will throw on a simple clutch that has some special detail to complete a client’s look.”

Her dresses and pants are relaxed and breezy, with details like bold prints or a candy-bright color to give them a sense of whimsy.

It’s this playfulness that got Rebecca Minkoff national recognition.

At age 18, Minkoff moved to New York to work as an intern at the Craig Taylor design house. In 2001, Minkoff took a basic “I ♥ New York” T-shirt, the kind you find on the streets, and reworked it by cutting the neck and tattering the sleeves.

She gave one to her brother (and now business partner) Uri Minkoff, who was friends with the actress Jenna Elfman, who wore the shirt on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno shortly after 9/11, and suddenly Minkoff had thousands of orders. She spent months sewing them on her living room floor.

Soon after, Elfman asked Minkoff to design a handbag for a movie. Though the purse never made it on screen, the result was the Morning After Bag—an oversized satchel for a modern woman on-the-go.

It’s stylish enough for a night out, but big enough to cram in essentials in case you don’t make it home until morning.

The Morning After Bag inspired the creation of the Rebecca Minkoff label in 2005. Uri Minkoff, who had founded health and technology startups in Florida, came on as CEO while Rebecca Minkoff serves as the company’s creative director.

These days, Minkoff’s customers are so loyal that the company has an online community site, Minkette (minkette.rebeccaminkoff.com), that follows the designer’s moves, from opening stores in Japan to the recent birth of her son. The sassy, beautifully designed site also showcases celebrities wearing the brand, travel tips, summer playlists and even a do-it-yourself guide to creating gold leaf nails.

In return, she gets loyal fans who buy different incarnations of the Morning After Bag season after season.

DeSigNer rebeCCa miNkoff (above) haS maDe a SplaSh iN faShioN with Covetable haNDbagS like the oStriCh leather morNiNg after ClutCh (ShowN oppoSite, iN perSimmoN), SolD loCally at NeimaN marCuS.

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Revenge of the neRds

In 40 yEaRS, COmIC-COn HaS GOnE fROm a Small, OBSCURE COllECTORS’ EvEnT TO a GlITzy HappEnInG aS mUCH a paRT Of THE CITy aS BEaCHES and pandaS. By nIna GaRIn

Every summer, depending on who you are, San Diego transforms into Gotham City and Mordor, Westeros and Forks, Tatooine and Metropolis, all at the same time.

Because every July, more than 100,000 self-proclaimed freaks, geeks and nerds gather for San Diego Comic-Con International, a convention that celebrates the latest in comic books, movies, TV, video games, toys and so much more.

The five-day pop culture bonanza is now such a major part of San Diego, bringing between $40 to $60 million in revenue each year, that it’s as synonymous with the city as beaches and pandas.

Over the last decade, Comic-Con—or just “the Con,” as it’s come to be known—has also become one of Hollywood’s most important marketing events.

A-list stars like Angelina Jolie, Colin Farrell, Steven Spielberg and Justin Timberlake make the short trip from Los Angeles to the San Diego Convention Center to generate buzz for their latest projects.

The event is so popular, it’s regularly referenced on TV shows like The Big Bang Theory and Family Guy. And in 2011, Comic-Con became the subject of a documentary by Academy Award-nominated filmmaker Morgan Spurlock.

Comic-Con Episode IV: A Fan’s Hope, which was co-produced by Stan Lee, the creator of Spider-Man and X-Men, among others, tells a loving story of the different people who attend the event each year.

THE COllECTOR One of the film’s featured personalities is Chuck Rozanski, a dealer who runs Mile High Comics in Denver.

He’s among a handful of people who first attended the event back in 1970, when it was held in the basement of downtown’s U.S. Grant Hotel. In the film, Rozanski tries to make a profit by selling traditional comic books despite the dealers being relegated to smaller areas within the massive pop culture extravaganza.

“Even though they have ‘comic’ in the name of the event, very little of the convention anymore is actually comics,” said Rozanski in the film.

In its infancy, Comic-Con was meant to be a place where adult fans of comic books could gather and discuss all those things that were considered nerdy or immature.

“If you were interested in comics past a certain age, you were looked down upon by society—people thought there was something wrong with you,” says Mike Towry, one of Comic-Con’s original co-founders.

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THE NEW GENERATION

OPENING SPREAD: POSTER ART FROm mORGAN SPURlOcK’S REcENT cOmIc-cON DOcUmENTARy THIS PAGE, TOP: mORE THAN 40 yEARS ON, cOmIc-cON NOW PAcKS THE SAN DIEGO cONvENTION cENTER; ABOvE: A FlyER FROm THE 1978 cONvENTION.

In Spurlock’s documentary, James Darling and Se Young Kang embody the new, younger generation of the Con. The two, who got engaged at the convention, attend each year because they idolize pop culture icons like director Kevin Smith and screenwriter Joss Whedon.

In San Diego, high school teacher Kelly Nelson is also one of the convention’s newer fans. She’s never read a comic book and doesn’t particularly like sci-fi, but she loves Comic-Con nonetheless.

“It started with Twilight,” she says. “My students turned me on to it, but none of my adult friends knew what I was talking about. I found out there was going to be a panel at Comic-Con before the first movie came out and I went. I probably felt what the comic book people felt when it first started, like I was with a group that understood me.”

It was that year—2008—that longtime fans point to as the year everything changed, tickets began selling out in minutes and the event became a massive Hollywood focus group.

“I know that most of the Comic-Con community hates me because I don’t recognize half of the costumes,” Nelson said. “I just really love getting to see what new movies are being made and I love being able to see the movie stars up close.”

OPPOSITE: cOSTUmE DESIGNER HOlly cONRAD (SHOWING OFF HER mass effect GETUP) AND cOmIcS DEAlER cHUcK ROzANSKI (INSET) ARE AmONG THE HARDcORE FANS FEATURED IN THE FIlm.

THE cOSTUmES Perhaps even more of a spectacle than celebrities are the elaborate costumes parading through the Convention Center.

There are people dressed like obscure superheroes, girls in barely-there outfits inspired by video games, groups decked out in detailed Steampunk attire—even children show up in cutesy Pokemon outfits.

And so many people dress up like characters from the Star Wars movies that there’s a dedicated day just for them.

But the ones who take it to a completely different level are people like the movie’s Holly Conrad, a costume designer who makes outfits to display at the event’s annual Masquerade.

The Masquerade is part party, part showcase of the Con’s best costumes in which thousands of people watch and cheer for their favorites. For the 2010 event, Conrad created a mechanical mask to look like a character in the video game Mass Effect and won a judge’s prize. She also got hired to help design costumes for an upcoming Mass Effect feature film.

“Comic-Con isn’t just a fun time for some people,” Towry says. “It’s a major part of their lives.”

THE AGING FANS For the first time since 1976, retired archeologist Ron May won’t be attending the Con. The lifelong comic book collector owns an original Amazing Spider-Man #1 as well as original Fantastic Four, Superman and other valuable titles.

“My comics aren’t worth as much because they’re pretty beat up from being read,” he says. “I didn’t realize that one day they’d be valuable.”

Though May, 65, no longer buys comics, he does collect original art from illustrators including Tommy Lee Edwards, Rebecca Guay and Donato Giancola. May also fought to keep the convention in San Diego when there were talks about moving it to Orange County or Las Vegas.

But because of Comic-Con’s international popularity and a computerized ticketing system that’s too fast and too confusing for senior fans, May has been completely shut out.

“They’re getting lots of kids in there, kids that are better with computers,” he said. “But lots of them don’t have the money to buy art and collectable items that keep the comic book business going.”

And while he understands that the event is good for San Diego, he feels stung that he’s being left out.

“I wrote letters, called up the office, but it’s just become too big.”

(THIS PAGE) cOURTESy SAN DIEGO HISTORy cENTER; (OPENING SPREAD AND INSET) cOURTESy STRATEGy PR; (cONRAD) cOURTESy HOlly cONRAD

“We needed the convention as a place to get together with others who valued the same things we did.”

The early Comic-Con had a low-key, do-it-yourself feel, with hand-drawn posters and a small group of collectors, artists and fans that all knew one another.

The event was contained to two rooms, one for comic sales and another for panels. The celebrities who showed up were the kind who would go unrecognized in the mainstream world, people like writer Ray Bradbury and comics legend Jack Kirby.

“Hollywood had zero interest in us then,” Towry says.

In 1977, however, a pop-culture savvy George Lucas decided to showcase his new film, Star Wars, at the convention.

That changed everything.

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“Comic-Con isn’t just a fun time for some people,” says Mike Towry, one of the event’s original cofounders. “It’s a major part of their lives.”

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BUilT for The faTher of BalBoa parK, The marsTon hoUse is a sTUnning eXample of arTs & crafTs archiTecTUre and one of The parK’s hidden gems.

By valerie scher phoTography By paUl Body

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Grand old homes tickle our imagination and make us wonder about their history. Who built them? What was it like to live in them? Why have they survived when so many venerable buildings have perished?

TOp: GOOD vEnTilaTiOn WaS impORTanT TO iRvinG Gill’S DESiGnS. WinDOWS liKE THiS OnE KEpT clOSETS fROm GETTinG mUSTy; aBOvE: nOTaBlES RanGinG fROm TEDDy ROOSEvElT TO BOOKER T. WaSHinGTOn WERE GUESTS aT THE maRSTOnS’ DininG ROOm TaBlE.

One lucky survivor is nestled in San Diego’s famous Balboa Park. Owned by the city and lovingly maintained by a historic preservation group, the Marston House Museum & Gardens is a glorious reminder of the past.

The five-acre property attracts those who appreciate architecture, interior design, nature, gardening or simply a peaceful setting in the heart of town.

The home was built in 1905 for one of San Diego’s most illustrious citizens, George W. Marston, his wife, Anna Gunn Marston, and their children. The Arts & Crafts-style house—designed by eminent architects William S. Hebbard and Irving Gill—is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

“It’s a beautiful house, not a McMansion,” says Anne Selgas, one of about 10 docents who conduct tours at the site. “You can easily imagine yourself living here.”

Spacious and gracious, the three-story, 8,500-squarefoot home has 10 bedrooms and six bathrooms, with handsome wood floors, ample fireplaces and large windows that supply ooh-worthy views of the gardens, canyon and towering trees.

For fans of architecture, Marston House represents a significant early stage of Gill’s evolution. The home, which was modern for its time, foreshadows the streamlined aesthetic of Gill’s mature work some years later, such as The Bishop’s School in La Jolla and the La Jolla Recreation Center.

Part of an upscale residential neighborhood that borders Balboa Park, the home is managed by the Save Our Heritage Organisation (SOHO), San Diego County’s biggest historic preservation group.

“Every day visitors tell me, ‘I never knew this was here,’” says Sarai Johnson, a SOHO staff member. “Now we’re getting the word out.”

George White Marston (1850-1946) was an entrepreneur, politician, environmentalist and philanthropist who accomplished so much that he was dubbed “San Diego’s First Citizen.” He made his fortune as the owner of fancy department stores that were the old-school equivalent of Neiman Marcus or Nordstrom.

But philanthropy was Marston’s most enduring

achievement. He was a virtuoso at championing good causes, among them the San Diego Public Library, San Diego YMCA, San Diego Historical Society and Presidio Park, which includes the Junípero Serra Museum. Still, nothing surpasses his efforts to establish Balboa Park as an urban oasis. Home to museums, gardens and the Zoo, it’s one of the city’s greatest attributes.

On business trips to New York and San Francisco, Marston saw first-hand how urban parks were cherished green zones that made big cities more livable. He ardently believed that San Diego deserved an outstanding public park.

“I feel the development of the city’s beauty and civic welfare can go along with the industrial development,” he once said. “Let us build a great city on a good foundation...Let us build a complete city.”

A visionary with lofty dreams and deep pockets, he defied the land-grabbers and bureaucrats who disagreed with him. In 1902, he ponied up $10,000 to pay for an extensive plan for Balboa Park. He was also a major player in the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, which inspired park buildings that still stand today.

Marston lived long enough to see many of his dreams fulfilled. He died at the age of 95.

After her father’s death, Marston’s eldest daughter Mary gave the home to the City of San Diego to ensure that this precious piece of prime real estate was preserved instead of destroyed.

“Because of Mary, we can stand in this house rather than in a high-rise condo,” says Selgas.

When Mary died in 1987, shortly before her 108th birthday, the San Diego Historical Society became the home’s overseer, but it soon faced financial problems and couldn’t continue in that role. In 2009, SOHO took charge with the idea of making the museum more welcoming to visitors. Marston House now caters to the burgeoning branch of “heritage tourism,” which highlights the cultural value of historic sites. Attendance has risen significantly since SOHO took over, to about 20,000 visitors annually.

The house tour whisks you back in time. Theodore

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Roosevelt was president when the home was built and you get the feeling that he would have said “Bully!” to the Marston’s comfort zone. He visited the house, as did such honored guests as Booker T. Washington, the pioneering African-American scientist and educator.

As believers in “modern” improvements, the Marston family had electricity in 1905 as well as a “speaking tube” (a forerunner of the telephone) and one of the first automobiles in San Diego. The estate, which originally cost $30,000, also features Stickley furniture and a spacious “sleeping porch” that was believed to promote good health. Even the tin cans in the kitchen pantry are representative of the era.

During the garden tour, you’ll see towering trees and an English-style formal garden, complete with fragrant roses and flower beds. You’ll also find out about the neighboring canyon, home to old fruit trees planted in Marston’s era and rabbits, squirrels and lizards that scamper across winding trails. Golden Eagles and Redtailed Hawks soar over the grounds. Butterflies are frequent visitors—the area is part of the migration path for Monarchs. Their caterpillars feast on milkweed plants that grow in the canyon.

The garden brims with sentimental meaning—it was a gift from the five Marston children to their parents on their 50th wedding anniversary, in 1928—and as such is a popular wedding site. As many as 12 lucky couples are married on the premises each year.

The handsomely rustic carriage house, formerly used for horses and cars, now functions as the museum gift shop; inventory includes anything from umbrellas and lip balm to jewelry, books and coasters. It’s hard to resist the showy geraniums bred by local horticulturalist Jim Zemcik and sold for $5 a pot. One of the prettiest varieties is called “Geranium George,” after the nickname Marston picked up during his second and final unsuccessful run for mayor in 1917. His opponent, Louis Wilde, called him “Geranium George” as an insult, implying that Marston, the park champion, was a wimp where business and industry were concerned. (Wilde’s winning campaign slogan was “More Smokestacks.”)

Nearly a century later, “Geranium George” sounds like a compliment. That’s especially true at the Marston House Museum, where a little plant—and a big house— pay tribute to a man who helped San Diego bloom.

The Marston House is located at 3525 Seventh Ave., near Balboa Park. For information about tour schedules and tickets, go to sohosandiego.org or call 619.298.3142.

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This 1920s-era wedgewood stove was chosen to match the marstons’ original hood, one of many original details still preserved in the 1905 home.

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secrets of the

Deep

how scientists from the scripps institution of oceanography helped james cameron dive to the bottom of the ocean. By will carless

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ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ISLAND EFFECTS

O

n March 25, 2012, at 2:52 pm, filmmaker James Cameron became just the third man in history to reach the bottom of the world—the deepest point of the Mariana Trench in the southern Pacific Ocean.

More people have walked on the surface of the moon than have witnessed the alien gloom of the “Challenger Deep,” which Cameron reached in a specially designed submarine.

It took Cameron more than two and a half hours to descend the 35,756 feet, or almost seven miles, to the ocean’s deepest point. The explorer, who also helped design the submarine, had the honor of piloting the Deepsea Challenger as it corkscrewed its way from brightly-lit tropical waters 200 miles southwest of Guam to the ink-black depths of the trench, untouched by the warmth of the sun’s rays.

The venerable Scripps Institution of Oceanography in La Jolla became involved with the project several years ago. The research school has been pushing the boundaries of marine exploration and science for more than five decades, and jumped at the chance to collaborate on the expedition.

As the Deepsea Challenge’s primary scientific collaborator, the institution will now reap the scientific bounty of the expedition. Far from the swashbuckling lurch of the open Pacific Ocean, Scripps scientists will spend months, or even years, examining the specimens and samples the expedition collected in their laboratories.

One of those scientists is Professor Douglas Bartlett, a microbiologist and the chief scientist on the expedition. Bartlett says he’s particularly excited to start examining some of the mud the mission brought back. Mud? What treasures can mud possibly be hiding?

Quite a trove, apparently.

“This weird and wacky stuff is once-in-a-lifetime material,” Bartlett says. “It’s a bit like getting moon rocks in the early 1970s. For people in my business, this is amazing material to be able to work on.”

Bartlett explains that the materials scavenged by the expedition are so interesting in part because they exist in such extraordinary conditions. Animals found at such mammoth depths are particularly fascinating to marine biologists, who strive to

understand how life can thrive in conditions more akin to outer space than the Blue Planet, he says.

“We’re looking at life that exists under conditions that are more like Jupiter’s moon Europa than anything on the surface of our planet,” Bartlett says. “We’ve got darkness, we’ve got a temperature near freezing, we’ve got a pressure of 15,000 pounds per square inch and we have all these puzzles about how organisms can survive, how they’ve evolved to live down there.”

With Cameron back at work on his movie projects for the time being, the Deepsea Challenge has moved on to its second phase, a full scientific analysis of the material recovered by the expedition.

More than purely academic, this study could lead to breakthroughs in anything from toothpaste ingredients to new medical drugs, Bartlett says.

“Some of those microbes in the mud might be the kind of microbes that make antibiotics, but they might be totally different down there,” he says.

Another Scripps Institution expert was instrumental in ensuring Bartlett has so much material to work on.

Engineer Kevin Hardy directed the design, construction and deployment of the unmanned “landers” used in the project—essentially robots that accompanied the Deepsea Challenger on its historic voyage.

It takes about two minutes of talking to Hardy to realize that this is a man who loves his job. He talks about his time on the expedition with a poetic, Melvillian lilt.

“When you’re on a ship, your whole world is moving up and down,” he says. “You’re moving up three feet, then down three feet or 10 feet.

You’re pitching and rolling and yawing and it’s just ... alive! You’re riding on the back of this giant steel horse, and you’re part of the living sea.”

But underneath his romantic appreciation for the ocean and its bounty, Hardy’s real skill lies in engineering machines that can operate remotely in the harshest corners of the planet. In this instance, he designed two landers that were sunk alongside the Deepsea Challenger and then rendezvoused with the submarine almost seven miles down.

The landers were used both to film the environ-

ment at the bottom of the earth for an upcoming National Geographic special and to collect the vital samples of seawater, animals and, yes, mud, for inspection and analysis back in La Jolla’s labs.

Hardy’s landers don’t have the dexterity of a manned submarine, however. And, no matter how technologically advanced, his robots will always lack the human capacity for experiencing and recording a moment in time.

In the Mariana Trench, that task fell to Cameron, a Canadian filmmaker who has directed some of history’s highest-grossing movies including Titanic, Avatar and Aliens. When he’s not making blockbuster films, Cameron has devoted his career to creating groundbreaking documentaries, many of them filmed in the ocean’s depths.

To reach the bottom of the world, Cameron squeezed into a pilot sphere with an internal diameter of 45 inches. The cramped space bristled with equipment, and Cameron’s sweat and the mist from his breath were collected in a plastic bag, which he could drink from in an emergency.

Inside the submarine, which is designed to stand upright in the water—“like a seahorse,” as Bartlett describes it—Cameron was alone with his instruments and cameras for hours. On deck, the team waited nervously for his safe return.

Bartlett, who has been a part of many such expeditions, said this particular crew was even more eclectic than usual. It included the muscled giants who can man the huge IMAX cameras used for the movie, a doctor who has spent time in numerous war zones and other “film guys” who have hobbies like dressing up in wing suits and throwing themselves out of planes, he says.

“Meanwhile, I’m just a scientist,” Bartlett says.

After the excitement of the voyage, Bartlett is eager to drill into the microbiology of his lucky dip of materials. He’s hoping for a discovery as groundbreaking in its own way as the expedition of March 25. In a laboratory somewhere in La Jolla, he’ll be spending the next few months poring over his “moon rocks,” seeking to understand more about the diversity and adaptability of life on our planet.

It took two and a half hours to descend the seven miles from brightly lit tropical waters to the ink-black depths of the trench.

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zen and the art of eating tacos Award-winning author, essayist and La Jollan Mike Sager on San Diego’s signature dish.

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If hazy memory serves, it was a humid summer night in 1972 in my old hometown of Baltimore, Md., which calls itself Charm City and is known more for crabs than for tacos but which has nothing on my beloved Tan Diego, which you probably know by now is called America’s Finest City—why else would you be here?

It was a weekend, pretty late. I was 16, cruising with my boys Leeroy, Bave and Hot Dog in my mom’s Buick—she called it her Deuce-and-a-Quarter, ghetto slang for a now-discontinued luxury vehicle, the Electra 225, considered by some to be a poor man’s Cadillac, a big cushy car for people who either couldn’t afford or

opening spread and this page: limelife photography

Remember your first taco? I think I do.

didn’t want to be seen driving the real thing, which was believed by some to carry the stigma of the nouveau riche. I don’t know where my mother picked up that particular piece of vocabulary—she came from a tiny farm town in the South, the daughter of a Driving Miss Daisy-type and her devoted, shop-keep husband—but she always liked collecting words, something I must have inherited. The Deuce was equipped in the front with an eight-way adjustable bench seat. I enjoyed taking it on dates; I guess I was something of a serial makeout artist in those days, a (short-statured but) determined high school boy on the prowl for experience of all kinds—one of which had been crashing the Deuce into a guard rail on a dark night similar to this with Julie Becker in the front seat. Our date lasted a total of 20 minutes. I told my father a big dog had run out into the road; I’d had to swerve to avoid it, I said. For some reason, despite my polite request, my father declined to forward us to the party to which we’d been headed. I couldn’t for the life of me fathom why. One big lesson I learned that night: keep your eyes on the road and not on your date.

Anyway, on this evening of hi-jinx with my boys, the Deuce had been repaired and I was about to learn something else new and very important. The Grateful Dead were in the middle of a national tour, a bootleg cassette was playing on Hot Dog’s boom box in the back seat. There was enough hair in the car to service a small ward of alopecia victims—a trio of militant Jewfros, including Hot Dog’s, which was huge and yellow like a sunflower; plus my own elaborate mane, thick and wavy, mid-back-length, worn in a trendy shag, cultivated monthly by this hot stylist chick at a unisex barbershop downtown called The Hair Garage. I can’t recall what my friends and I had been doing that evening—one of them today is a federal judge—but I do remember that all of us were possessed by a powerful hunger. It was well past midnight, we lived in the ’burbs. We needed food. We needed it fast. There was only one place open at that hour.

So it was that I finger-steered the luxurious Deuce into the drive-through at Jack in the Box and, like many a newly-licensed teen driver before me, ordered my first four tacos. Despite the crumbs—my mother would give me hell the next day—it felt like the perfect food, all crunch and spicy meat and yellow cheese and comfort and hot sauce in little packets that you tore open with your teeth. Even some lettuce for nutrition—three of us,

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after all, were jocks. To this day I remember the mélange of flavors doing cartwheels in my mouth. (And also how it felt like the car was still moving, even after we were parked and I’d set the brake. Weird, right?)

As my stomach began to fill, as the endorphins began to flow, as this wonderful new food worked its soporific magic, I had a little bit of an epiphany: This taco, a shell stuffed with wonderfully good tastes, eaten inside this car stuffed with my closest friends … how could I not see? It was certainly a metaphor for a life well-lived.

Call it Zen and the art of eating tacos.

I have freely partaken ever since.

Now of course I live in a place where the taco is king, and sorry Jack, but I long ago came to realize that there are far better venues at which to get taco’d, though I do appreciate the commercials, what a hoot. While you’re driving around Tan Diego, be observant and you’ll notice—you are never far from a taco stand or even a taco truck. I know the joint might look grungy. But do yourself a favor and check it out.

Because I work at home, I tend to do my taco indulging at lunchtime, at my favorite local place, in a little area of La Jolla called Bird Rock, so named for a big rock where sea birds like to hang out and do their thing.

We Tan Diegans are simple folk. Tacos are a simple food.

They taste good. They don’t take long to make. They even serve as their own plate and wrapper. In a pinch, I’ve even used a tortilla for a napkin. (If you don’t want to sound like Napoleon Dynamite, please remember that the Ls are pronounced like a Y.) According to Gustavo Arellano, the editor of our nearby (and excellent) Orange County Weekly and the author of the hilarious and well-researched Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, tacos have existed ever since tortillas, even if they didn’t have a proper name. The earliest mention of taco as a food, Arellano says, dates to the late 19th century. Prior to that, the word “taco” was used in a number of ways, meaning everything from a pool cue to a hammer to getting drunk. Literally, taco in Spanish means “plug” or “wadding.” The name may have derived from the explosive charges used by Mexican silver miners, who wrapped their gunpowder in small wads of paper and had to be swift of foot, lest they be buried under the rocks. Hopefully, you will not choose a taco stand where the food will have an explosive effect on your own internal mine shafts. If you’re a newbie, watch out

for the refried beans. There is a lot of lard involved. You may need time to acclimate.

Since part of the United States used to be Mexico, I guess you could say that we’ve always had Mexican food here, but it is generally said that the cuisine began making its way into the U.S. in the 1880s—chili, tamales and tequila, mostly. The taco didn’t really make much of an impression until the 1960s, when Taco Bell and Jack in the Box and others started selling their mutant form of the Mexican staple. By the 1990s, Mexican food was everywhere. Salsa overtook ketchup as the country’s best-selling condiment (though the volume of ketchup sold is still greater). Like spaghetti and pizza, the taco has become part of a distinctly American cuisine. As Arellano points out, where else in the world could you get corned beef tacos at an Irish pub on May Day? My taco of choice is our regional specialty—fish tacos. Of course you know that real tacos don’t have a crunchy shell, but rather a pair of small, round, floppy corn or flour tortillas—if you’re used to flour, the corn may taste a bit gamey. In this part of the world, most of our Mexican food tends to hew to the Baja Californian tradition of cooking, a spicy seaside culture. Usually a fish taco is batter fried. I’m older now so I like mine grilled. When done correctly, the meat is flaky yet moist and flavorful. (If you’re adventurous, you can try grilling a whole fish over a fire on the beach; check for local regulations.) Some shredded cabbage and chopped tomato. A mild white sauce. Sometimes, in season, my taco stand features lobster tacos for three bucks a shot.

How my mother loves those when she’s in town visiting, though I’m not clear if it’s the price or the taste that so appeals to her; I always feel like lobster is as much about texture as it is about taste.

The truth is, when it comes to food, it’s not about the price or the grandness of the venue, though if you spend a lot of time going to restaurants, you might start to believe that people feel otherwise. For my money, nothing beats the sound of the attractive owner-lady behind the counter at my favorite taco stand calling my number.

I carry my orange plastic tray to the fixings bar and then exit outside to a weathered bench beneath a palapa overhang. There is a direct view down a hill to the ocean. As my belly fills, as the endorphins begin to flow, as my grilled fish tacos with extra cilantro and mild hot sauce begin to work their soporific magic ...

I am once again reminded of the beauty and the pleasure of the simple things in life.

sAGER (ABOvE) pREfERs his fish tAcOs with An OcEAn viEw, At BAhiA DOn BRAvO (OppOsitE AnD pREviOus spREAD) in LA jOLLA.

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Q&A

Andrew Zimmern

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ith his signature bald pate and knowing smirk, Andrew Zimmern appeared on the national stage in 2006 as the host of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods show, which has found him eating jellyfish soup in Guangzhou, China, and lemon ants in Ecuador, with a few freakishly tasty stopovers in our neck of the woods. Zimmern, who won a James Beard Award in 2010 for his work with the show, was recently back in town to film a new special called Border Check, about the symbiotic relationship between San Diego and Tijuana.

What’s unique about the San Diego/Tijuana border?

To me it’s such a fascinating part of the world, because of the geopolitical, social and historical ramifications of what borders mean in that part of the world, plus looking at how Mexican culture ebbs and flows over that border every day, from the maquiladoras (factories) to the food that’s being farmed down there and shipped up to the United States. You go down to the border and watch who’s crossing and what’s happening and it blows your mind.

Tell us about Border Check.

People tend to have some preconceived notions about Tijuana.

Care to dispel any myths?

The oldest question in the world when it comes to the notion of travel, going back thousands of years, is at its very simplest: Where does one place end and the other begin?

People try to answer that question with geographic borders or physical boundaries like mountain ranges and oceans; in a city like New York or San Diego, it’s turning a corner or crossing a street. What I’ve tried to do with Border Check is use that question as a litmus test to tell lots of other stories and answer that question for myself as it regards Mexican and American culture.

Tijuana is almost a bedroom community of San Diego at this point.

Any visitor to San Diego would do well to cross the border. Forget the myths. You can drink the water; it’s not dangerous anymore. People are very welcoming. It’s a cosmopolitan city. Yes, there are some very down-on-their-luck neighborhoods, but it’s relatively safe. The street food is vibrant; the taco scene is incredible. The BajaMed style that has come exploding out of Ensenada is in full effect in Tijuana. The last time I was there, I ate at El Taller and Misión 19,

which is Javier Plascencia’s place.

Either one would be a runaway success in New York—fantastic, contemporary style Baja food.

What is Baja food like?

Baja is very unique in Mexico and in the world. It has a very large Mediterranean influence from the Spaniards, a very large Asian influence because of its proximity to the Orient. They still have grapevines and olive groves flourishing there, so there’s a Mediterranean lilt to the culture, which is why they nicknamed the cuisine BajaMed. It has a much more international zing to it. It’s a very interesting place foodwise for anybody who loves to eat and travel.

What’s the most bizarre food you’ve encountered here?

With Bizarre Foods, we predicate a lot of what we do on the fact that what’s strange to some people is normal, everyday food for others. To many San Diegans, some of the amazing and delicious foods that you can find in National City or almost any ethnic enclave in town would be strange. National City, which is just a couple miles due south of San Diego proper, has become a hotbed of Filipino culture—it’s one of the larger

Filipino communities outside of the Philippines—and that has certainly changed the nature of the food and music scene in your part of the world. The markets in National City are incredible: they all carry balut, the fertilized duck eggs. To most Americans that’s a shocker. It tastes like little roasted ducks with a hardboiled egg around it—with a little chile and vinegar, it’s delicious. And the fact that you can go to a public beach and forage for wild mussels and gooseneck barnacles right from the jetty ... I think most people in San Diego would toss gooseneck barnacles into the garbage, when in fact it can cost you $60 a pound for them in Spain, and they’re one of the most delicious foods you can imagine.

Everybody thinks of San Diego as a young blond kid on a surfboard or a white-haired millionaire on his boat. It’s really a working city with millions of people of all ethnic types and economic backgrounds. Its weather makes it a beacon for travelers, but when they get there I would encourage them to get off the main strip, because that’s where all the fun is.

There are so many amazing things to do in this city, and all of it is in the great neighborhoods.

STEVE HENKE

The writer, chef and TV host explores bizarre foods in the border region’s underrated underbelly, from Filipino market eats to Tijuana haute cuisine. by maya kroth

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EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN FOR SAN DIEGO PASTRY CHEFS, WHO HAVE SUGAR-SPUN NOSTALGIC DESSERTS INTO CONTEMPORARY MASTERPIECES By maria C. hunt photography by dhanraj emanuel

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Carrot cake, tapioca pudding and banana cream pie are popping up on the dessert menus at white-tablecloth restaurants all around San Diego. But these aren’t your grandma’s recipes.

PREVIOUS SPREAD, left: AT George’s at the cove, Doughnuts ARE fried to order, rolled in sugar AND SERVED WITH a variety of dipPING SAUCES; rigHT: WILLIAM BRADLEY OF ADDISON MAKES A BROWNIE SUNDAE USING FRENCH VALRHONA CHOCOLATE, TART MARASCA CHERRIES, BORA BORAN VANILLA AND TOUCHES OF GOLD LEAF. THIS PAGE, ABOVE: JAMES FORAN’S TAKE ON BANANA CREAM PIE AT MARKET; opposite: DECONSTRUCTED CARROT CAKE at george’S.

Remember how excited you got as a kid, when you had cleaned your plate of pork chops, peas and rice and it was time for dessert? In a young life, dessert can be one of the best times of day.

Whether you liked your desserts fruity, chocolatey, creamy or crunchy, a mouthful of sweetness makes us happy. Maybe you couldn’t wait to taste your Aunt Fannie’s peach cobbler with the flaky buttery crust, or your mom’s gooey three-layer caramel cake or the hot fudge sundaes that your dad made for the family every Friday night. Or if you were really good, you got to go out with your parents to a fancy restaurant and order something fantastic like flaming Baked Alaska.

Pastry chefs know the nearly irresistible appeal of these retro desserts that remind us of childhood pleasures. So carrot cake, tapioca pudding, banana cream pie and even brownies are popping up on the dessert menus at whitetablecloth restaurants around San Diego like Market Del Mar, Herringbone and George’s California Modern.

But these aren’t your grandma’s recipes.

Pastry chefs are using modern techniques, new flavors and surprising forms to create sophisticated and fresh versions of classic desserts.

“It’s fun to work with the classics,” says James Foran, pastry chef at Market Del Mar. “You can do it in a way that’s elegant. They’re classic for a reason: because they’re good.”

Take the banana cream pie on the dessert menu at Market. The name is a bit misleading, since there’s a lot more going on besides bananas, whipped cream and crust.

Foran fills a mini salted peanut crust with chopped ripe bananas. He smooths a layer of whipped cream over the bananas and then sprinkles the pie with chocolate shavings and more candied peanuts. On the plate, the pie is paired with a swath of salted caramel and slices of caramelized bananas—a nod to Bananas Foster—and a scoop of ice cream that tastes just like a chocolate banana malt.

“Banana cream pie meets chocolate malt,” says Foran, who also features creative takes on the ice cream sand-

wich, strawberry shortcake and butterscotch pudding.

“On the menu it’s big and burly sounding, but it’s lighter and elegant and it’s the same flavors that you’d expect.”

It may seem that nostalgic desserts are more popular than ever as pastry chefs tap into the warm feelings diners hold for a simpler, safer time, but high-end chefs have delighted diners with old-fashioned desserts for nearly two decades. JJ Stith was the pastry chef who made warm chocolate chip cookies and a mini root beer float famous at Michael Mina restaurants in the late 1990s. Chocolate fudge and pancakes for dessert are popular Oscar party fare thanks to Sherry Yard, the pastry chef for the Wolfgang Puck empire. And Bradley Ogden made the turn-of-the-century dessert tapioca chic by serving it as a warm silky soup brightened by seasonal fruits.

The Asian-style coconut tapioca at Burlap is pastry chef Rachel King’s favorite of all the sweets she makes for Enlightened Hospitality, a group of hip, social restaurants helmed by partners Brian Malarkey (of TV’s Top Chef fame) and James Brennan; the collection also includes hotspots like Searsucker and Herringbone.

Rather than being a thick lumpy pudding, King’s tapioca is warm and fluid, with smooth pearls of tapioca accented by fresh mangoes and cool tropical sorbets.

“I wanted to add textural elements, so the passion fruit coconut sorbet is nice and smooth; the kiwi granita adds crunch, and the mangoes add their own texture,” says King. “To me, all those exotic flavors go together.”

King plays with texture again in the popular Red Velvet Cake at Searsucker, which is a chocolate cake that’s tinted red and served with a snow-white frosting.

Red Velvet first became popular as the secret recipe served famously at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. According to urban legend, someone bribed a cook at the hotel and the recipe went viral, passed along in chain letters and newspaper columns in the 1960s. In King’s update, the frosting is punctuated by Pop Rocks that she coats in white chocolate.

The King Sundae is another star on the Searsucker menu. While the chef’s surname is King, for this peanut

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butter, banana and bacon sundae, she was channeling another king: Elvis. Presley loved eating peanut butter, banana, honey and bacon sandwiches.

“It’s crunchy and soft, hot and cold; it’s an elevation of the average sundae,” says King. “I’m not trying to put powders and foams and gels on everything, especially in San Diego. The desserts that are more nostalgic are the ones that sell the best.”

While diners are adventurous sometimes with savory foods, when it’s time for dessert, they want a sure thing.

Filling a dessert menu with fancy French words like bavarois (pudding), millefeuille (layered puff pastry and cream) and vacherin (meringue shell filled with fruit and ice cream) is death to dessert sales.

“You have to make it familiar, otherwise they’re not going to stick it in their mouth,” says Lori Sauer, pastry chef at George’s California Modern in La Jolla.

“They’re wary of how adventurous they’re going to be because they don’t want to waste their money. But if you give them one or two components they’re familiar with, they’re willing to step out on the ledge a little bit.”

Sauer pulls diners to the edge with her carrot cake, which doesn’t have a whiff of cream cheese frosting.

Sauer at once deconstructs and amplifies the dessert with slices of sublimely moist, spiced carrot cake surrounded by white crumbles of brown-butter dust, crunchy carrot meringues and a sweet carrot-citrus sorbet. She finishes the plate with a pool of carrot/ brown-butter sauce and golden raisins plumped up in slightly savory lavender syrup.

“You can add so many things to carrot cake to make it flexible,” says Sauer, who recalls that the dish was one of her dad’s favorites. “He’s one of those grumpy old men who don’t like sweets, but he always liked carrot cake and Amaretto.”

One of Sauer’s other hits is Doughnuts & Dips, basically moist, cakey doughnut holes fried to order and rolled in sugar. She’s served them with a wild variety of dips including rosewater syrup and curried mango chutney. Currently, she’s pairing them with dipping sauces inspired by ice cream flavors: caramel, chocolate, marshmallow and sour cherry.

A brownie with vanilla ice cream might sound too humble a dish for the menu at Addison at the Grand Del Mar, a much-lauded five-diamond restaurant in the northern part of San Diego County. But Executive Chef William Bradley would tastefully disagree.

“Who doesn’t like brownie à la mode?” says Bradley,

who creates the desserts for the resort’s signature restaurant, Addison. “It sparks memories for a lot of people.

But it doesn’t look like the brownie à la mode you used to get.”

Fudgy chocolate cakes called brownies started appearing in American cookbooks in the early 1900s, so Bradley’s challenge is to make the best brownie dessert diners have ever had. The brownie is made with French Valrhona chocolate, and he accents it with the best tart Marasca cherries from Europe. One of Bradley’s secrets is finding the world’s best vanilla, which he believes comes from Bora Bora.

The result is a sculptural dessert with dense, fudgy cylinders of brownie, flanked by quenelles of delicately floral vanilla ice cream and rich chocolate mousse and intense macerated cherries with touches of gold leaf. It’s a brownie worthy of the sumptuous surroundings of the Grand Del Mar. “Execution is everything—not innovation,” says Bradley. “It’s not about designing something no one’s ever seen before.”

That same philosophy guides Rachel Caygill of Bread & Butter Baking, as she makes desserts for area restaurants. Her layered Chocolate Raspberry Pudding Trifle and Bacon Brittle Ice Cream Sandwich are popular with diners at Carnitas Snack Shack in University Heights.

But her real love is pie, whether it’s rustic tarts for Carnitas or weekly pie specials like Key Lime Meringue for Starlite in Little Italy.

“For me, the crust is the shining star of the pie. I love making pies,” says Caygill. “I think it’s the wannabe housewife in me.”

Of course, chefs say it can be tricky when they create a riff on a beloved dessert like brownies or apple pie that doesn’t match up with a diner’s memory.

“I’ve gotten so many complaints on my apple pie: It’s too tart, oh it’s too sweet,” laughs Foran. “It’s so hard to please people because they have a lot more to compare it to.”

King says that’s why she likes working in the gleaming open kitchens like the ones at Searsucker and Herringbone. She can observe diners to see if her desserts are really making people happy.

“Sometimes people say it’s so good, but how do you know, really?” asks King. “I will definitely watch people and it’s really rewarding when you see them take their first bite and smile and then share it with their friends.”

aboVE: AT BUrlap, PASTRY CHEF RACHEL KING’S FAVORITE RECIPE IS THIS ASIANSTYLE COCONUT TAPIOCA, ACCENTED BY FRESH MANGOES AND TROPICAL SORBETS. opposite: the ice cream sandwich goes upscale at market.

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Neighborhoods

La Jolla Known as “the Jewel,” La Jolla is the pride of San Diego, boasting unparalleled natural wonders and a cozy sense of community. The village’s tree-lined avenues give it a quaint, Main Street USA feel, only decidedly more upscale, thanks to tony boutiques and four-star bistros with sweeping views of the majestic, craggy coastline below. Surfers flock to La Jolla’s legendary reef breaks—such as Windansea beach, famously chronicled by Tom Wolfe in The Pump House Gang—while kayakers are drawn to the cove’s mysterious caves. Youngsters find endless amusement watching the seals at Children’s Pool beach. The town is also home to the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, which presents world-class exhibitions in its spacious galleries overlooking the Pacific.

little italy New York’s got one, Chicago’s got one, and so does San Diego.

Downtown-adjacent Little Italy has a palpable authenticity to it: Though it’s a popular stop for visitors looking for a slice of la dolce vita, don’t be surprised to hear the mellifluous strains of la madrelingua wafting from the many intimate bistros, pasta markets and sidewalk cafés lining the main drag, India Street. The village-like neighborhood is populated by many actual Italians, whose heritage is celebrated during several lively annual festas. Little Italy has also become one of the trendiest nesting sites for San Diego’s young urbanites, thanks to its contemporary architecture, adorable boutiques and a burgeoning, galleryfilled design district.

DOWNTOWN/GASLAMP quarter/EAST VILLAGE The one-time red-light district and former hangout of Wild West legends like Wyatt Earp, downtown’s Gaslamp Quarter is now among the country’s most vibrant entertainment districts, packed with a dizzying array of restaurants, nightclubs and boutiques. Downtown is also San Diego’s civic and cultural center, housing the headquarters for the Symphony and Opera, as well as the historic, beautifully renovated Balboa Theatre.

Still more attractions await along the Embarcadero, including the Maritime Museum, the USS Midway aircraft carrier and Seaport Village, with its shops, restaurants and vintage carousel.

Adjacent to the Gaslamp, the developing East Village seems to sprout a new condo high-rise weekly, attracting residents with its proximity to Petco Park, home of the San Diego Padres.

del mar/ solana beach These North Coast beach towns are a shopper’s paradise.

Upscale but accessible, Del Mar’s pedestrian-friendly downtown has no shortage of bars and restaurants at which to wind down from a day spent indulging in retail therapy at the chic boutiques of Del Mar Plaza or betting the ponies at the famous Del Mar Racetrack, a longtime hotspot for Hollywood’s elite. A few miles up historic Highway 101 lies funky Solana Beach, where boutiquelined Cedros Avenue forms the spine of the area’s design district.

Converted Quonset huts house all manner of home décor shops, art galleries and clothiers, while by night the Belly Up Tavern books some of the best local and national musical talent on the circuit.

edwin santiago (except la jolla by ian white, little italy by joe scarnici)

SAN DIEGO comprises MANY VERY DIFFERENT communities. HERE ARE THE MOST VISITED.

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UpTOWn/HillcREST San Diego’s edgiest cultural districts can be found in the neighborhoods just north and east of Balboa Park. Originally the center of the city’s gay and lesbian community, Hillcrest brims with a variety of entertainment options, including stellar shopping, tastetempting Thai food and lively dance clubs. Neighboring Mission Hills is home to beautiful estates whose residents frequent its charming boutiques and bistros. Due east, North Park—with its numerous alternative galleries and the historic Birch Theatre—is the city’s newest arts-and-nightlife hub, while its southern neighbor, South Park, is a small but charming collection of shade-dappled streets lined with boutiques, bars and cafés. Take a drive through the area’s residential streets to marvel at fine examples of Craftsman architecture.

EnciniTaS/caRlSBad The beach communities of North County have a pace all their own.

Quaint and walkable, the neighborhoods operate on clocks that seem to tick a bit slower, where corporate homogeneity doesn’t stand a chance against homegrown mom-and-pop shops. Locals prize this simple, laid-back lifestyle as the very definition of the good life. Encinitas lends itself to quiet contemplation, whether from atop a longboard at Swami’s beach or while strolling the gardens of the Self-Realization Fellowship, whose golden, lotus blossom-shaped towers define the skyline. To the north, Carlsbad’s village is packed with bistros and antique shops, while LegoLand and other attractions, such as the seasonal Flower Fields, are just a short drive to the east.

cOROnadO Sometimes referred to by locals as “the island,” Coronado is actually an isthmus, connected to mainland San Diego by a slim strip of beach known as the Silver Strand. Accessible by ferry from downtown San Diego or via a majestic 2.12-mile-long bridge, Coronado makes for a charming day trip. Wide, tree-lined boulevards and historic homes lend a small-town atmosphere to Coronado’s main drag. As it makes its way toward the Pacific, Orange Avenue winds past the picturesque red turrets of the Hotel del Coronado, a Victorianera resort where Marilyn Monroe and Jack Lemmon famously filmed Some Like It Hot. The area’s scenic beaches are favored by joggers, swimmers, sandcastlebuilding families and dog owners, whose four-legged friends love to frolic in the surf.

pacific BEacH/miSSiOn BEacH/miSSiOn Bay San Diego is home to dozens of colleges and universities, and the beach neighborhoods are where those students live. On a thin peninsula separating Mission Bay from the Pacific Ocean, Mission Beach is one continuous beach party, its boardwalk abuzz with joggers, bicyclists, skateboarders and sightseers on Segways. It’s also home to the historic Giant Dipper roller coaster, which dates back to 1925. East of Mission Beach is Mission Bay, whose salty waters are plied by kayakers, speedboats and catamarans. Nearby Pacific Beach is a haven for swimwear boutiques, surfing, sunbathing and fishing off the end of the iconic Crystal Pier. By night, Garnet Avenue’s lively bars and clubs keep the good times rolling.

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oLd town By day, pedestrian-only Old Town State Park attracts visitors with historic structures, including the city’s first public schoolhouse, oldest surviving newspaper (The San Diego Union) and first brick courthouse.

Nearby Heritage Park is a collection of immaculately preserved Victorian homes, including the 1887 Stick/Eastlake-style ShermanGilbert House and Temple Beth Israel, the city’s first synagogue, constructed in 1889. On the hill above Old Town stands another important landmark, the Junípero Serra Museum in Presidio Park, where Father Serra established Alta California’s first mission in 1769. By night, Old Town’s streets become a quaint entertainment district, packed with Mexican restaurants and festive bars.

ocean Beach/ point Loma These are the quieter, more scenic cousins to the raucous coastal neighborhoods of Pacific and Mission Beach. Ocean Beach, or “O.B.” to locals, is a holdout of counterculture, full of organic grocers, antique malls and laid-back watering holes. The Wednesday afternoon farmer’s market— replete with fresh veggies, busking musicians and even llama rides for the kids—offers a perfect snapshot of the community. Adjacent Point Loma houses Cabrillo National Monument, where in 1542 Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo became the first European to set foot on the West Coast. Point Loma’s iconic lighthouse, which dates back to 1855, is also worth a visit.

BaJa caLifornia No longer just a getaway for the youthful partygoer, the new Baja is a worthwhile excursion for passport-wielding foodies and culture-seekers. Though you needn’t look far to find a boisterous party scene in downtown Tijuana, you’ll also find a concert hall, art galleries and museum at the spherical Centro Cultural, as well as celebrated restaurants like Misión 19 serving haute BajaMed cuisine. Twenty miles south are the coastal towns Rosarito and Puerto Nuevo, where fresh-caught lobster is a local specialty. Surfers and horseback riders are drawn to these beaches, while the area’s luxury spas offer a little R&R. Baja even has its own wine country, a 14-mile route through the Valle de Guadalupe east of the romantic port city of Ensenada. for what’s happening in s.d., see where SAN DIeGO magazine, whereSD.cOm or the where uSA App

greater s.d. county Tourist brochures tend to focus on central San Diego and the coast, but interesting day trips await in the county’s eastern and northeastern reaches. About an hour from downtown is Julian, a charming gold rush town in the scenic Cuyamaca mountains whose small main drag is lined with historic buildings. It’s particularly beautiful in the fall, when the leaves are turning and the apple harvest is in full swing (try the pie, it’s famous). San Diego has its own wine country out here, too, home to around 20 small producers including the 120-year-old Bernardo Winery; another 20 are clustered together in nearby Temecula. Many of San Diego’s best breweries, including Stone, are headquartered in the Escondido area and attract a growing number of beer pilgrims.

edwin santiago (except BaJa By istocKphoto.com/Karin Lau, greater s.d. county By ian white)

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spending time

edwin santiago

SHOPPING san diego style is all aBoUt elegance tempeRed By comfoRt. tHis is tHe common tHRead Uniting tHe tony designeR sHops of la jolla, tHe independent BoUtiqUes spRinging Up downtown and tHe nUmeRoUs fasHion and oUtlet malls. decisions, decisions.

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LOOK BOOK a l o h a s u n day

neiman marcus

San Diego is a gold mine for discerning shoppers; discover a treasure trove of boutiques and galleries whose wares range from classic to contemporary.

Portland-based Shwood has quickly become a must-have brand thanks to its cool wood-frame wayfarer sunglasses, handcrafted from sustainable wood. These Canby shades are available in zebrawood, cherry or East Indian rosewood and sold for $165175 at uptown’s hip aloha sunday boutique. 3118 University Ave., North Park, 619.269.9838 This gold ring from Spanish jewelry line tous features an emerald rimmed with tiny black diamonds; it retails for $11,750 at the brand’s namesake boutique at Fashion Valley.

7007 Friars Road, 619.299.8687 This opulent beaded “daisy” clutch from Fendi can be slung over the shoulder via its thin metallic leather strap or toted in-hand. Crafted in Italy from ivory/black circle-beaded kidskin, the clutch boasts a teal and golden bead border, green-dyed mink trim, satin lining and magnetic snap closure. Find it locally at neiman marcus, where it retails for $2,500. 7007 Friars Road, Fashion Valley, 619.692.9100

to us

North Park-based Lotus Love Beauty makes beauty products that fuse aromatherapy and traditional ayurvedic and yogic philosophies.

The vegan collection is made up of small-batch oils infused with herbs and spices including jasmine rose, citrus saffron and verbena coconut. The oils go for $22.95 each at cathedral. 435 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.296.4046

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henri b endel

Vogue recently named chunky bangle bracelets one of the most essential accessories to update any wardrobe after spotting them on catwalks across the globe. Henri Bendel offers these chic metal bangles in varying widths, shown here in stingray, coral and other assorted colors and geometric patterns. Find them for $118-140, depending on size, at the Henri Bendel store at Fashion Valley. 7007 Friars Road, 619.296.4076 The Gaslamp Quarter’s Eden caters to the needs of the young urban fashionista with items from up-andcoming designers like Californiabased label Woodleigh, which makes this sexy chevron-motif striped skirt in black and nude with side slit—ideal for the beach or after-sunset cocktails. Find it for $98 at Eden. 520 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.696.3336 Hats are back in a big way ever since the Royal Wedding, from fedoras to fascinators. We love this demure Adriana cloche, shown here in a natural black straw weave from Goorin Bros. hat shop in the Gaslamp Quarter, where it retails for $55 and features a vintageinspired tie fabric double bow and brim piping. 631 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.450.6303

eden

goorin b ros.

Fashion Valley is home to the newest Ann Taylor concept store, a more intimate affair featuring white-washed maple hardwood floors, crystal chandeliers, modern tufted furniture and a selection of the brand’s signature classic looks for working women, such as these green stacked heels in embossed leather ($158). 7007 Friars Road, Fashion Valley, 619.683.2090

ann taylor

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SHOPPING DESTINATION SHOPPING

ORANGE & PARK

SOUVENIRS FOR THE SAVVY Sure, you can always pick up an “I ♥ San Diego” shotglass at the airport for the people back home, but why not take souvenir shopping up a notch? Coronado-based design studio Orange & Park makes these simple, modern map prints (pictured above), that are both an elegant way to remember time spent on San Diego’s killer beaches and a smart décor choice. A collaboration between Southern California natives David Klinker and John McCauley, O&P also makes stationery inspired by local icons—lifeguard towers,

★ BAZAAR DEL MUNDOCL002705 For more than 35 years, Diane Powers’ Bazaar del Mundo has endured as one of San Diego’s most beloved tourist destinations. This festive collection of nine boutique shops just across Juan Street from the State Park features eye-catching items from around the globe, from colorful pottery at Artes de Mexico to feminine clothing and jewelry at Ariana. You’ll also find textiles, kitchen items, home furnishings, paintings, folk art and an inspiring array of coffee-table books and other titles. 4133 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.296.3161, bazaardelmundo.com

★ FASHION VALLEYCL9006472 There are shopping malls and there are shopping empires. Fashion Valley holds sway as San Diego’s premier shopping destination, with five department stores—including Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s—and 200 shops and restaurants. If Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Burberry are too pricey for your pocketbook, Fashion Valley has all the usual suspects as well, from Abercrombie to Z Gallerie.

When shopping fatigue hits, take a breather at FV’s expansive food court. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.688.9113, simon.com

CARLSBAD PREMIUM OUTLETS Fashion vendors at this outdoor shopping center 30 minutes north of downtown range from Kenneth Cole, Dooney & Bourke and Lacoste to Barneys New York and Brooks Brothers. The outlets also boast wellselected shops specializing in children’s clothes, shoes for every occasion, travel gear and gifts. The center is located just off Interstate 5 (look for the giant windmill). 5620 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, 760.804.9000, premiumoutlets.com

THE FORUM AT CARLSBAD CL900647 Nestled between the North County communities of Rancho Santa Fe, Del Mar and Encinitas, the Forum at Carlsbad is much more appealing than your average strip mall.

This pedestrian-friendly and aesthetically pleasing shopping center is lined with tropical palm trees and boasts popular retail outlets like Talbots, Victoria’s Secret and Z Gallerie, plus family-oriented eateries such as Buca di Beppo and Panera Bread. 1901-1935 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.479.0166, theforumcarlsbad.com

DEL MAR PLAZA Experience the elegant seaside approach to a full shopping excursion.

The shops at Del Mar Plaza offer merchandise ranging from specialty clothing, footwear and organic bath products to artwork and gifts.

Casual and fine-dining restaurants are also perched upon this elevated plaza, providing guests a delightful coastal view. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.1555, delmarplaza.com

LAS AMERICAS PREMIUM OUTLETS Bargain hunters regularly trek to the border to find discounted treasures at this outdoor fashion outlet center, San Diego’s largest. With more than 125 stores and restaurants, including Neiman Marcus Last Call, Las Americas offers ample square footage to shop.

Just don’t go expecting basement bargains on everything—a lot of the stuff costs about the same as retail. Bonus: Tijuana is a five-minute walk away.

cresting waves, the Coronado Bridge—as well as typographically creative maps of North and South America, Africa and other locales. Find their stuff at the Hotel Del Coronado, the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego's X Store and boutiques like Noon and Progress (p. 72). Because your niece doesn’t really need another commemorative keychain, does she? orangeandpark.com

Hop on the Blue Line trolley from downtown for a hassle-free day. 4211 Camino de la Plaza, San Ysidro, 619.934.8400, premiumoutlets.com SEAPORT VILLAGECL0027063 Don’t let the “I heart S.D.” mugs and seashell trinkets scare you away—this popular tourist destination has many charms beyond its corner on the local souvenir market. In style, the 14-acre complex pays homage to the early days of the century-old seaport and features 54 shops and a handful of casual and upscale eateries. Miles of bayside cobblestone paths make it an ideal place for strolling on a sun-dappled afternoon. And kids will dig the delightful carved-wood carousel. 849 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.235.4014, seaportvillage.com ★ WESTFIELD HORTON PLAZACL9006475 Located on the site of San Diego’s historic town plaza, this seven-level, open-air mall is often credited as having sparked downtown’s revitalization. Horton opened in 1985 and features some 130 shops and restaurants, including mall chain mainstays (The Gap, Nine West, Levi’s, etc.), department stores (Nordstrom, Macy’s), a food court and movie theater. The colorful shopping center offers three hours of free parking with validation. 324 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.8180, westfield.com/hortonplaza WESTFIELD UNIVERSITY TOWNE CENTERCL002706 Family-friendly University Towne Center (UTC) is a popular shopping spot for students from nearby UCSD. This sprawling open-air mall features three major department stores (Nordstrom, Macy’s, Sears) and more than 180 shops and eateries, including a two-

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emerging and established artists.

Readers of the underground art mag Juxtapoz should find something to like in this 7,000-square-foot building, which features various exhibition spaces as well as 14 artist studios. Closed Sun.-Wed. 317 E. Grand Ave., Escondido, 760.781.5779, distinctionart.com JOSEPH BEllOWS GAllERyCL900648 Joseph Bellows Gallery features primarily vintage prints and photography in the three exhibition spaces at its La Jolla location. The gallery also offers search, appraisal and consultation services for both beginning and established collectors. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7661 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.5620, josephbellows.com

CROW THiEF

story Crate & Barrel. Commissioned artwork includes a dolphin-themed play fountain for children. The mall’s food court overlooks an ice skating rink—one of the few remaining in San Diego. 4545 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.546.8858, westfield.com/utc

GAllERiES h THE ART Of Tim CAnTOR CL00259 At age 15, Tim Cantor captured recognition when one of his paintings was placed in the White House. He has since been featured in some of the world’s most prestigious art venues. One of his own galleries, however, is right here in San Diego, offering visitors an up-close look at the artist’s expressive, darkly ethereal original oil paintings and limited-edition prints. 527 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.235.6990, timcantor.com CHUCK JOnES STUDiO GAllERy The work of animator Chuck Jones has been viewed and valued by generations enjoying Saturday morning cartoons

and is now on view at this gallery in the Gaslamp. The gallery features work by Jones, the Oscar-winning creator of such memorable characters as Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote, Marvin the Martian and Pepe le Pew, as well as images from San Diego’s beloved Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel. 232 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.294.9880, chuckjones.com/galleries.php CiREllO GAllERyCL900651 Cirello Gallery, located in North Park’s arts district, carries an impressive selection of designs by local artisans, including paintings, sculpture, glass, photography, furniture and other decorative objects. Especially cool is the geometric Cirello Jewelry line, made sustainably from discarded steel scraps. Featured artists rotate monthly; the gallery is open daily. 3803 Ray St., North Park, 619.201.4668, cirellogallery.com DiSTinCTiOn GAllERyCL900794 This Escondido contemporary art gallery showcases figurative pop and urban surrealist paintings from

mADiSOn GAllERyCL9007945 Gallery owner Lorna York presides over this 3,500-square-foot contemporary art space in the heart of La Jolla, which handles prints from the greats—Warhol, Picasso, Tamayo— as well as work from living artists: media paintings by James Verbicky, sensual stonework by Richard Erdman and metal sculptures from local star Matt Devine. Open daily.

1020 Prospect St. #130, La Jolla, 858.459.0836, madisongalleries.com nOEl-BAzA finE ARTCL9006485 Located in the art and design district of Little Italy, Noel-Baza Fine Art features original artwork by living mid-career artists and acknowledged 20th-century masters. Lichtensteins and Warhols hang alongside canvases and sculptures by contemporary artists in this modern, sunlit space. Closed Sun.-Mon. 2165 India St., Little Italy, 619.876.4160, noel-bazafineart.com qUinT GAllERyCL9007943 For more than 30 years, Mark Quint has been known as one of the most influential gallerists in town, and his opening parties are legendary. People still talk about the time, years ago,

that he let an artist shove a telephone pole through the front door, two walls and a back office. Ryan McGinness, Kim MacConnel and Roy McMakin are among the big names the gallery represents. Closed Sun.Mon. 7547 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.3409, quintgallery.com SCOTT WHiTE COnTEmPORARy ARTCL9006487 For more than 25 years Scott White Contemporary Art has consistently put together some of the most interesting gallery shows in San Diego, featuring the work of both emerging and mid-career artists. Media ranges from contemporary painting and printmaking to sculpture and photography created by artists from the United States, Canada and Europe. Willem de Kooning, Frank Stella, Norman Bluhm and Carol K. Brown are just a few of the names whose work has been showcased here. Closed Sun.Mon. 7655 Girard Ave. #101, La Jolla, 858.255.8574, scottwhiteart.com

SHOPS & BOUTiqUES AlOHA SUnDAy SUPPly CO. CL003852 This modern boutique captures the aloha spirit with its collection of clothing and accessories that are “surfinspired” but not Hawaiian-shirt cheesy. Find supersoft printed tees, organic denim skinny jeans and trendy wood-frame sunglasses from Shwood, plus slip-on shoes, African leather chukka boots and other essentials for the contemporary beach-dwelling man. 3118 University Ave., North Park, 619.269.9838, alohasunday.com THE ATTiCCL003851 This modern-vintage shop on Coronado’s main drag features design-savvy home décor items and accessories including recycled glass bird feeders, oversized rings and silver pendants by local designers, lightweight scarves from fair-trade companies and tea towels bearing the crown insignia, the symbol of Coronado. 1011 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.5432, theatticgirls.blogspot.com

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BlUE JEAnS & BiKiniS CL003847 This welcoming boutique aims to make it easier to shop for those two articles of clothing women notoriously dread having to try on. Skinny to boot-cut, find jeans from premium designers like True Religion and Lucky Brand as well as figure-flattering bikinis, tankinis and one-pieces from L Space, Vitamin A and Vix, among other brands. 971 Orange Ave., Coronado 619.319.5858, bluejeansandbikinis.com

bixby & ball

classic kid-lit titles ranging from Seuss to Silverstein to Sendak—even yogafor-babies manuals. 2007 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff-by-the-Sea, 760.230.4272, babiesbytheseaboutique.com

AzzARiA BOUTiqUECL900647 At this denim bar, “waitresses” present cocktail and denim “menus” and help customers find the perfect-fit jeans from brands like Hudson and J Brand. The brains behind the operation are Tammy Neihart, a former L.A.-based stylist for more than 10 years, and consultant Laura Ann Fairchild, of the previous concept bar L.A. Fairchild. The stylish setting, intimate service and tempting libations will leave your head spinning with a refreshingly satisfied buzz. 2021 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff-by-the-Sea, 760.753.7572, shopazzaria.com

h BETTiE PAGE ClOTHinGCL00385 Go from blah to bombshell in a highwaisted dress or pencil skirt from this Gaslamp Quarter boutique, launched

by Russian-born fashion designer Tatyana Khomyakova, whose retro designs are inspired by the ’50sera pinup queen. 430 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.544.1950, bettiepageclothing.com

BABiES By THE SEACL90062 Becoming a mother gave veteran boutique owner Laura Ann Fairchild the inspiration to open this shop specializing in natural, environmentally sensitive products for mom and baby.

She teamed up with her OB/GYN, Dr. Robert Biter, to create Babies by the Sea, where you’ll find supersoft bamboo onesies, unbleached cotton swaddlers and shelves filled with

BixBy & BAllCL9007948 The oldest cottage on South Cedros is now home to this lifestyle boutique carrying items that are coastal chic, minus the kitsch. You’ll find linens and quilts by John Robshaw, oversized throw pillows and nature-inspired wall art, along with lotions, scrubs, books, cards, jewelry, kitchenware and more.

214 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.436.7214, bixbyandball.com

h BOn VinCL0038 Housed in a historic 1887 building complete with polished hardwood floors, exposed brick and eclectic artwork, this wine bar and retail shop sells delicacies ranging from Marcona almonds and aged Italian balsamic vinegars to whole black truffles. Choose a bottle from the extensive wine selection and enjoy it corkage-fee-free in the wine bar. 542 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.8377, bonvinsandiego.com CAPRiCORn CL00270 This smart, chic-looking shop in the Bird Rock district features a small but discriminating array of women’s fashions from independent designers including Nation LTD, Myne, Vanessa Mooney and more in its checkerboard-tiled space. Shoes and accessories, too. 5544-B La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla, 858.551.2660, capricornboutique.com CECiliA’S BOUTiqUECL900658 Owned by Elizabeth Leffler-Agia, a seasoned stylist, Cecilia’s Boutique is a haven for designer denim, unique accessories and delicate jewelry as well as many items from local labels, such as RoseRags’ upcycled, vintage-inspired fashions. Closed Sun. 928 Fort Stockton Drive #115, Mission Hills, 619.692.3802, ceciliaboutiquesd.com CROW THiEfCL003857 Vintage chairs, antique fans and reclaimed fenceboard cladding set the stage for owner Melissa Hendrix-

Lawson’s line of bespoke men’s shirts, made by hand from high-quality fabrics including wool plaid, heavyweight denim and breezy cotton. Closed Mon.-Wed. 3009 Grape St., South Park, 619.961.6210, crowthief.com D.G. WillS BOOKSCL0000027074 While mega-bookstores peddle everything from CDs to lattes, D.G. Wills sells books. Fiction and non-fiction, stacked high on floor-to-ceiling wood shelves, along with photographs, prints and old-time La Jolla memorabilia. Owner Dennis Wills can talk at length about all things literary; he also makes spot-on reading suggestions. The shop long has hosted readings by authors ranging from Allen Ginsberg and Edward Albee to Gore Vidal and Maureen Dowd. 7461 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.1800, dgwillsbooks.com h DAniEl JEWElRy & GifTCL0000333836 For more than 30 years this La Jolla shop has been providing quality timepieces, diamond rings and jewelry from brands like TAGHeuer, IWC, Mont Blanc and Judith Ripka. 1241 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.8001, danieljewelry.net EyES On fifTHCL0000333849 Find fashion-forward eyewear and sunglasses to flatter any face shape at this downtown shop, with the latest designer frames from the likes of Prada, Tom Ford, Oliver Peoples and Alain Mikli as well as vintage options. Don’t miss styles from local brand Spexwax, which are handmade from recycled vinyl records. 228 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.231.3937, eyesonfifth.com h GOnE BAnAnAS BEACHWEAR For more than 35 years Gone Bananas’s collection of women’s mix-andmatch swimwear has been unsurpassed in quality and quantity. With some 15,000 pieces of swimwear, this Mission Beach shop showcases hundreds of designers, including Luli Fama,

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Beach Bunny, Vitamin A, L-Space and Cover Style with sizes ranging from XXS to E-cup. 3785 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.4900, gonebananasbeachwear.com GOORin BROS.CL0000333859 Design is a priority from head to toe at this well-appointed hat shop in a historic Gaslamp Quarter building. Fedoras, trucker, cowboy, even quirky baseball caps can be found here. Or try accessorizing with a vintage hatpin—they’re making a comeback. 631 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.450.6303, goorin.com GRaffiTi BEacHCL0000333866 Setting up shop in a 100-year-old building that once housed a fire station, owner Melanie Michaud caters to San Diego’s young, urban side with “beach-to-street” fashions from up-and-coming designers, many of whom practice an eco-friendly ethos. Plus, skimpy bikinis, supersoft men’s tees, hats and scarves in hip prints. Closed Mon. 2220 Fern St., South Park, 858.433.0950, shopgraffitibeach.com GROUndEd GaRdEn SHOpCL0000027080 Find a fresh, modern approach to gardening and design at this spot in Encinitas’ Lumberyard. Among the wares on display are indoor and outdoor furnishings by Herman Miller, Blu Dot and Gus Modern along with covetable placemats from Chilewich.

Build up your library with inspirational books devoted to home and garden design. 897 S. Coast Highway 101 #105, Encinitas, 760.230.1563, shopgrounded.com

“The Gaslamp’s Trendiest Closet” 435 Island Avenue (Between 4th & 5th) 619.795.2824 teaseboutique.com & check us out online... use promo code GB25 for 25% off your order online Keep in touch facebook.com/teaseboutique @TeaseMeSanDiego

HillSidE aRTiSanSCL0000333860 Hillside Artisans’ three locations are each home to a small yet quality selection of toys and children’s apparel including soft newborn blankets, whimsical lunch boxes, one-of-a-kind outfits, carriers and shoes. A small play space is also available to keep the kids engaged while the grownups shop. 7874 Girard Ave., La Jolla,

858.456.0134; 1412 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.794.0134; 827 W. Washington St., Mission Hills, 619.293.0134. hillsideartisans.com HUnT & GaTHERCL9000006851 This boutique lives up to its name with its array of vintage clothing, accessories and home décor gathered from up and down the West Coast by owner Zoe Crenshaw, who often customizes her finds with embroidery or other touches. 2871 University Ave., North Park, 619.297.3040, huntandgathershop.com KERUTCL9000007924 A cheery yellow awning announces your arrival at this tastefully appointed La Jolla boutique. Owner Lauren Turek, a former investment banker and personal stylist, curates a very of-the-moment collection that hits all of today’s top trends with brands like ALC and Rag & Bone. Having trouble choosing? Mull over your options with a class of bubbly in Kerut’s cozy lounge. 7944 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.0800, kerut.com laURa GamBUcciCL0000027089 Local style maven Laura Gambucci is the expert eye behind this eponymous La Jolla boutique, a favorite among the coastal female fashion set. Clothes are romantic, sexy and sophisticated, au courant but not overly trendy—in other words, quality pieces that are guaranteed a long closet life. 7629 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.0214 h lEO HamEl finE JEWElERSCL9000006478 San Diego’s largest full-service jewelry store offers an extensive collection that includes brands like Hearts on Fire, Marco Bicego, Pandora, vintage Tiffany & Co. and pre-owned Rolex and Cartier watches, among others. Family owned and operated for more than 30 years, the store’s personal shoppers can help find the right piece in any price range. 1851 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.299.1500 , leohamel.com

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M-Theory RecordsCL9000006667 San Diego’s version of the record store in High Fidelity, this shop carries anything from the new Arcade Fire disc to an out-of-print ‘60s soul classic on vinyl. The store has also hosted legendary live performances from acts like Chuck D, Spiritualized, the Hold Steady, Camper Van Beethoven and Switchfoot. 915 W. Washington St., Mission Hills, 619.220.0485, mtheorymusic.com Make GoodCL9000007927 Located on a tree-lined street in South Park, this small shop represents a collective of local crafters whose handmade, upcycled goods range from messenger bags and cuddly owl-shaped pillows to clothing, paintings and jewelry. Think of it as a brick-and-mortar version of Etsy, for locals only. Closed Mon. 2207 Fern St., South Park, 619.563.4600, themakegood.com MeleroCL9000007923 Specializing in emerging European designers not widely distributed in the U.S., Ruth Melero oversees a well-edited lineup of clothing, handbags and jewelry from lines like Sachin + Babi, Paul & Joe Paris, Black Halo, Joanna Louca and Chan Luu at her eponymous shop. 1918 India St., Little Italy, 619.546.4226, melerobg.com Mint ShoesCL0000027091 Get well-heeled without spending a mint at this stylish little shoe shop, painted in a modish spearmint, white and red color scheme. Displayed on clear shelves lining tubular walls are flirty flats and heels from young, hip lines like Oliberté and Jeffrey Campbell, and a wide selection of cool urban kicks for women and men. 525 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.291.6468, mintshoes.com MistralCL0000027093 Named for the winds that flutter from the Alps into the south of France, Mistral specializes in handcrafted

soaps, lotions and fragrances that offer healing and relaxation. The shop’s founders are proud of the natural ingredients used in their products, ranging from fresh lavender to verbena to hand-picked gardenias. 146 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.755.5963, mistralsoap.com MixtureCL0000027094 High design struts its stuff at this home furnishings and accessories store housed in the spacious former digs of a 1940s brick warehouse. The front gate slides wide open to show off an appealing collection of modern and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture, home and garden accessories, books, candles, jewelry, gift items and even fine art. 2210 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy, 800.903.1913, mixturedesigns.com h Na Hoku Hawaii’s Finest Jewelers Since 1924CL0000027095 Hawaiian for “stars,” Na Hoku captures the Island lifestyle and Hawaiian tradition in its collection of fine jewelry. The store features unique Island-themed lines like the Original Diamond Slipper Pendant, Palm Tree Collection and Hawaii Heirloom Collection, plus exquisite designs by well-known jewelry artisans Kabana, Steven Douglas and others.

Many items are set with Tahitian and freshwater pearls, diamonds, colored gemstones and inlays of opal and mother-of-pearl. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.294.7811 and 165 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.7121; nahoku.com Nicole MillerCL0000027097 New York designer Nicole Miller’s flirty, feminine dresses give classic silhouettes a modern twist with funky, unforgettable fabrics. Rumor has it she also was the first to coin the term Little Black Dress. You’ll find plenty of those, too, in this airy boutique, which also features Miller’s gorgeous bridal line. 1923 Calle Barcelona #141, Carlsbad, 760.632.7000, nicolemillersd.com

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SVAC-GUESTBOOK 2012

6/6/12

WATCH • LEARN • SHOP

in Balboa Park Over 200 San Diego County artists in 37 working studios located in beautiful Balboa Park.

Open 11am - 4pm daily

Spanish Village Art Center 1770 Village Place San Diego, CA 92101 619-233-9050

www.spanishvillageart.com

6:50 PM

h NiKKi & CO. FiNE JEWElERS4 Behind its ornate grapevine-motif brass gate, this tiny spot comes courtesy of a third-generation jeweler whose family has been in the business since 1948. Inside, find pre-owned fine Swiss watches from names like Patek Philippe, Panerai, Cartier and Breitling as well as antique and estate jewelry and diamonds, some dating back as far as the Victorian era. 562 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.236.0870, nikkifinejewelers.com NOON DESiGNSCL9000006661 With two San Diego locations, these adorable little shops showcase the work of craftswomen Maie Webb and Nora Alexander. Graphic designer Webb hand-draws and presses Noon’s adorable cards and stationery while Alexander, trained in industrial design, hand-makes its nature-inspired jewelry line. You’ll also find candles, handmade leather bags and more. 4993 Niagara Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.523.1744 and 349 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.436.7417; noondesignshop.com h OmEGaCL0000333837 As the official timekeeper for 24 Olympic Games, Omega has been a leading name in watchmaking since 1848. Designs range from the red gold ladies’ Constellation watch, with its whimsical diamond swirl face, to the navy blue Planet Ocean watch for men, made from scratch-resistant Liquidmetal, a super-strong zirconium-based alloy. 7007 Friars Road, Fashion Valley, 619.260.1120, omegawatches.com PiGmENTCL9000006479 Pigment has everything for your home and then some, with sleek modern furniture, flooring and home accessories. Pigment also carries baby items, jewelry, eco-friendly totes by Baggu, decorative mini-terrariums by local designer Britt Neubacher and limitededition art prints by co-owner Amy Paul. 3827 30th St., North Park, 619.501.6318, shoppigment.com

PilaR’S BEaCHWEaRCL0000027099 Forget about teeny-weeny yellow polka-dot bikinis. At Pilar’s, you’ll find every color, shape and size of swimwear imaginable—there are hundreds of brands from which to choose. At this popular Mission Beach shop, which has been suiting up San Diegans for more than 30 years, it doesn’t matter if you’re a Pilates nut or a couch potato: Pilar’s expert staff will help you find something beautiful and flattering, from the tiniest two-piece to the most forgiving cover-up. 3790 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.3056, pilarsbeachwear.com PROGRESSCL9000007941 Owned by a design-minded husbandand-wife team, Progress brings a cool, modern vibe to the trendy South Park neighborhood. Most items in the store, from the sculptural cardboard pendant lamps to the benches made from foldedup magazine pages, have an eco-minded twist, and the fun, smart furniture is all sourced from small companies.

You’ll also find candles, jewelry, handbags, cards, kids stuff and more. 2225 30th St., South Park, 619.280.5501, progresssouthpark.com

SOlOCL0000027107 Located in the trendy Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, this warehouse-like retailer carries all manner of home décor items, stationery and gifts. Find Asian-inspired furniture

by Curio, unique kitchen items, plus a killer array of inspiring architecture and design books, jewelry from local artisans, eye-popping lighting, baby items and much more. 309 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.794.9016, solocedros.com SUNSPlaSH SWimWEaRCL0000027109 With a vast international selection of swimwear and resort wear, including 200 name brands, SunSplash carries everything from itsy-bitsy Brazilian bikinis to modern designer one-pieces. Sizes run from 6-16, and SunSplash specialists are trained to find the perfect figure-flattering fit. 979 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.581.3400, sunsplashswimwear.com

h PROSPECT FiNE JEWElRyCL0038 Find high-end jewelry, diamonds in a variety of cuts and settings, bracelets, rings, necklaces, Lalique crystal and designer watches from the likes of Chopard at this spacious showroom in the heart of the village shopping district in La Jolla. 1200 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.1781

SWEET PaPERCL9000007930 This quaint, sunny stationery boutique run by a pair of sisters celebrates the lost art of the handwritten message. For a sentiment that just can’t be translated via Twitter or text, check out their selection of clever, smartly illustrated cards by boutique brands; there’s also a well-curated array of scrapbooking stamps, candles, notebooks, recipe boxes and more. Closed Sun. 7660 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.1446, sweet-paper.com

SaUvaGECL9006571 You don’t have to be a Sports Illustrated model to look sexy in the Sauvage line by local designer Elizabeth Southwood—although those bathing beauties have been seen in her bikinis. La Jolla’s Sauvage boutique stocks glamorous beachwear, cover-ups and accessories, all manufactured in San Diego; or choose custom swimwear for a superb fit. 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.729.0015, sauvageswimwear.com

TaylOR GUiTaRSCL9000006850 Taylor Guitars rest in the hands of famous musicians like Taylor Swift, Prince and Jason Mraz. At the company’s El Cajon factory, you can learn how the guitars are made and even purchase your own axe at the on-site store, which also carries picks, parts, accessories and more.

Tours of the factory are offered Mon.-Fri. at 1 pm. 1980 Gillespie Way, El Cajon 619.258.1207, taylorguitars.com

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h TEASECL00385 Located in the nightlife mecca that is the Gaslamp Quarter, Tease outfits downtown’s young, hip, after-dark crowd with a versatile, edgy collection that mixes big-name brands with local and up-and-coming designers. Especially cool is the line of vintage designer sunglasses by names like Balenciaga and Dior, which have been updated with modern flourishes.

435 Island Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.795.2824, teaseboutique.com TOBi BlATTCL00271 Apparel and accessories for men, women and children—but primarily women. Notable merchandise includes casual hoodies from Velvet, dresses and tunics from Graham and Spencer and hip denim

by Blank. 12750 Carmel Country Road #113, Del Mar, 858.509.5949; 742 Genevieve St., Solana Beach 858.847.0114; 152 N. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach. 858.350.8624 TOURnEAU CL9006501 If a new timepiece sounds tempting, turn to Tourneau, recognized by Guinness World Records for its mind-boggling selection—more than 100 brands and 8,000 styles, including rarities, vintage and limited editions. As an added bonus, Tourneau offers lifetime battery replacement. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.296.8463, tourneau.com OCABUlARyCL002718 V Make this a definite stop on any shopping itinerary. The Little Italy boutique is one of the loveliest around. Tiffanyblue walls, white molding and a plush seating area complement the youthful collection of clothing for women and men, as well as jewelry, home accessories and much more. 414 W. Cedar St., Little Italy, 619.544.1100, vocabularyboutique.com WAnDERinG SAGECL90063 Owner Ilze Ports designs clothing made from eco-cotton and alpaca wool, produced by a small, family-

owned business in Peru. The green boutique also sells embroidered silk scarves, handmade bracelets and other items from artisans from all over the globe—all Fair Trade-certified. 2415 San Diego Ave. #104, Old Town, 619.487.1189, wanderingsage.com WARWiCK’SCL003271 Warwick’s has been a La Jolla institution since it first opened in 1896. Bibliophiles appreciate the wide selection, knowledgeable staff, regular author readings and other literary events. Peruse the independent bookseller’s bestseller and recommended lists for suggestions.

Locals also shop there for stationery, office supplies and gift items. 7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.0347, warwicks.com h WE OliVECL900796 “You name it, we’ll find a way to get olive oil in it,” says a clerk at this La Jolla retail shop and oceanview wine bar. In addition to Californiagrown oils in flavors like habanero and porcini mushroom, you’ll also find bread mixes, body balms, lotions and soaps made with olive oil, plus balsamic vinegars, party dips and other gourmet items. 1158 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.8250, lajolla.weolive.com

You’re Invited

Free Olive Oil Tasting Daily · Olive & Gourmet Foods Premium Artisan Wines · Business Gift Collection Ocean View Wine Bar · Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm to 7pm

the finest California Extra Virgin olive oils, artisan vinegars, hand-crafted foods along with premium wines for an exquisite culinary adventure.

1158 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 551-8250 SHOP ONLINE lajolla.weolive.com

h WESTimECL9007956 This spacious, 2,500-square-foot boutique in La Jolla village is the first Westime outpost to open outside of Los Angeles. The multi-brand retailer showcases all manner of timepieces, from popular fashion watches to limited-edition selections from the finest Swiss watchmakers. Hublot, GirardPerregaux, Ulysse Nardin and Bell & Ross are among the brands represented. 1227 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.2222, westime.com

fOR mORE liSTinGS, SEE WHERE SAN DIEGO mAGAzinE, WHERESD.COM OR THE WHERE USA APP

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Fresh Fish. Flown in Daily.

Sleek and sophisticated, The Oceanaire provides the perfect setting to enjoy an unrivaled atmosphere where you will indulge in tantalizing chef creations, exceptional wines and exquisite desserts.

Make your reservation today.

WE’VE STEAKED OUR CLAIM Prime Steak • Fine Wine • Private Dining • New Menu

Gaslamp District • 400 J Street • 619-858-2277 theoceanaire.com

The Harbor Club | 285 J Street | 619-696-3369

mortons.com/sandiego

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chow time

courtesy nine-ten

DINING it’s not all sandy beers and fish tacos in san diego.

WITH AN ARRAY OF FRESH INGREDIENTS AVAILABLE NEARLY YEAR-ROUND, THE CITY’S CULINARY LANDSCAPE IS NOW ON PAR WITH THAT OF the world’s great urban centers. here’s a sampling of what your taste buds have in store.

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dininG

JaVIER PLasCENCIa

TiJUana RiSinG The culinary story of the year, not only for our region but nationally, has been the rise of neighboring Tijuana as a foodie destination, with both The New Yorker and anthony Bourdain's show No Reservations, among many others, trekking to the border to partake of the new style of BajaMed haute cuisine. at the epicenter is chef Javier Plascencia, whose flagship

1500 OcEanCL002689 california cuisine. 1500 Ocean at the Hotel del Coronado showcases “Southland coastal cuisine” with a delicious ocean view. The menu features seasonal culinary offerings sourced from Cabo San Lucas to Santa Ynez, coupled with wines from across the region. Dine on the oceanfront terrace, in the contemporary dining room or private dining cabanas. D (TuSa). 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490, dine1500ocean.com a.R. valEnTiEnCL0026903 california cuisine. Overlooking the Torrey Pines Golf Course, the signature restaurant of the Craftsman-style Lodge at Torrey Pines is named for an early 20th-century San Diego impressionist whose work is featured in the dining room. With Chef Jeff Jackson at the helm, the restaurant aims to use the best seasonal and local produce to create its own masterpieces. L, D (daily); B (Sa-Su). 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.453.4420, arvalentien.com

restaurant Misión 19 lures diners across the border with innovative preparations of local products, from octopus and oysters to beef tongue. Misión 19, just a fiveminute cab ride from the border, is worth a trip on its own, but the flavors of Baja can also be sampled by those traveling without a passport: Plascencia also owns Romesco, a Spanish-style restaurant in Bonita whose strip-mall location belies its quality, while north Park's El Take it Easy frequently hosts visiting chefs from Baja for one-off dinners.

addiSOnCL0026901 French. This fine restaurant overlooking the rolling green golf course at the Grand Del Mar features contemporary French cuisine intricately fused with Mediterranean flavors.

Dinner entrées change seasonally, as Executive Chef William Bradley—a James Beard “Rising Star Chef” nominee and Grands Chef Relais & Châteaux—uses the finest and freshest ingredients available. Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez presides over the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning wine list, which includes more than 3,600 labels. D (Tu-Sa). 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, Del Mar, 858.314.1900, addisondelmar.com

alcHEMyCL900640 international. This low-key neighborhood restaurant serves American comfort food with an international twist. Dishes change with the seasons but standbys include the grass-fed beef burger with housecured pickles and an array of street food from all over the world. An in-house mixologist shakes and stirs signature cocktails like the Alchemy margarita, served in a glass rimmed with black lava sea salt.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1503 30th St., South Park, 619.255.0616, alchemysandiego.com

BanKERS HillCL900675 american. Named for the neighborhood that houses it, this restaurant from popular Executive Chef Carl Schroeder (Market) features farm-fresh shareable small plates and entrées like braised pork tacos, pasta bolognese and hangar steak, served in a chic urban-casual setting. The airy interior features quirkily mismatched furniture and yields to a charming enclosed front patio—don’t miss the living tapestry of succulent plants mounted on the wall. D (nightly).

2202 Fourth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.231.0222, bankershillsd.com

aRTERRa RESTaURanTCL0026902 california cuisine. Located at the Marriott Del Mar, this award-winning restaurant specializes in fresh, contemporary seasonal cuisine with Americana influences. Known as a power-lunch spot for area execs, the restaurant’s bar and outdoor lounge are also nice for happy hour, while romantic dinners unfold in the main dining room. Arterra also offers a vast wine list and sushi. B (daily), L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 11966 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.6032, arterrarestaurant.com

BaRRiO STaRCL900675 Mexican/Southwestern. From veteran restaurateur Isabel Cruz comes this upscale take on Mexican fare. The colorful interior boasts rustic, Día de los Muertos-style decorations, and the menu features signature dishes like fish tacos and elote (roasted corn on the cob sprinkled with cotija cheese and slathered with jalapeño butter). Don’t miss the blackberry margarita, made with house-infused roasted jalapeño tequila. B, L, D (daily). 2706 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.501.7827, isabelscantina.com/barrio-star.php

avEnUE 5CL0026904 american. Family-run neighborhood spot boasts a seasonallychanging New American menu featuring seasonal ingredients. Chef Colin MacLaggan’s signature dishes include a burger, a risotto-of-theday and wild mushroom tortellini in Madeira sauce. Behind the bar, modern cocktails are inspired by molecular gastronomy. D (nightly), Br (Su). 2760 Fifth Ave. #100, Bankers Hill, 619.542.0394, avenue5restaurant.com

C

BEncOTTO iTalian KiTcHEnCL90069 italian. Italian for “perfectly cooked,” Bencotto’s been a hit with locals almost since Day One. The menu spotlights heaping portions of housemade pastas, cured meats, artisan cheeses and rich desserts— all served in a modern, airy setting inside the glass-concrete-and-steel walls of Little Italy’s Q Building. L, D (Tu-Su; daily in summer). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.450.4786, lovebencotto.com

h STARRED LISTINGS ARE FEATURED GUESTBOOK ADVERTISERS. 7 6 W H E R E G U E S T B O O K

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SPECTACULAR

WATERFRONT DINING Enjoy breathtaking views of the coastline while you dine on fresh fish specialties, award-winning prime rib and the Original Hot Chocolate Lava Cake. Chart House is your place for outstanding cuisine and impeccable service.

JOIN US FOR HAPPY HOUR!

2588 S. COAST HWY. 101 CARDIFF • 760.436.4044 online reservations at

CHART-HOUSE.COM

Escape to Coronado Island Peohe’s offers guests an island-inspired menu featuring an eclectic mix of fresh seafood, mouthwatering steaks, new wave sushi and more.

Enjoy Peohe’s all new modern decor and stunning waterfront view of the San Diego skyline.

JOIN US FOR HAPPY HOUR!

1201 FIRST STREET CORONADO FERRY LANDING 619.437.4474 ONLINE RESERVATIONS AT

PEOHES.COM

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hattan’s WD-50. The menu features pork belly croque madame, five different preparations of moules frites (mussels with fries) and the popular crispy Brussels sprouts with pancetta and Parmesan cheese, not to mention craft cocktails. D (nightly). 4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., Ocean Beach, 619.224.2884, bobeaukitchen.com BurlapCL003621 Eclectic/Fusion. This “Asian cowboy” eatery’s tagline is “Where the West Eats Meat.” Bold flavors and even bolder décor—think coffee sacks with stamps from around the world—define this hoppin’ spot from celebri-Chef Brian Malarkey. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 12995 El Camino Real #21, Del Mar, 858.369.5700, burlapeats.com

katsuya

Bertrand at Mr. A’sCL0026906 American. Step into the foyer of this smart uptown office building and you’d have no inkling of the wonders going on 12 stories above your head. Undoubtedly one of the most exciting places to eat in San Diego, Bertrand’s sits above downtown San Diego, with sweeping views that stretch from Tijuana to Orange County. Watch jetliners bob their way down to the runway at Lindbergh Field airport and enjoy some of the best food served anywhere. Add old-fashioned excellent service to the mix and even the most jaded diner will be impressed. L (M-F), D (nightly). 2550 Fifth Ave., 12th floor, Bankers Hill, 619.239.1377, bertrandatmisteras.com BiceCL9006842 Italian. Local version of the international chain begun by Beatrice “Bice” Ruggeri, this sleek spot brings Milanese authenticity to the heart of downtown. The eclectic menu features local, seasonal ingredients in

entrées like osso buco. Don’t miss the salumi and cheese bar, with dozens of varieties of fresh and aged cheeses and meats. D (nightly). 425 Island Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.2423, bicesandiego.com Blue Point Coastal Cuisine Seafood. This San Francisco-style supper club was the first seafood restaurant to drop anchor in the Gaslamp; these days, it’s popular with both local and visiting oyster aficionados. The décor is classy and the view of bustling Fifth Avenue is unsurpassed. D (nightly). 565 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.6623, dinecrg.com BO Beau Kitchen + BarCL900791 French. Embracing its surroundings in casual Ocean Beach, BO Beau is a pretension-free bistro serving simple, hearty French classics prepared by a young, Paris-trained chef whose résumé includes internships at the French Laundry and Man-

Café 222CL0026901 Breakfast. A line out the door tells you that this dog-friendly downtown breakfast and lunch spot is worth the wait. Don’t worry, it doesn’t take long to get a table—there’s plenty of seating inside and out. For 16 years, Café 222’s quirky charm (cup-andsaucer chandeliers, mismatched plates) and creative cuisine (Porky Benedict, Orange-Pecan Pancakes) have made it a local favorite. The chef/owner, who’s been featured on the Food Network, describes the menu selections as updated versions of what your mom used to make. With a new menu announced this summer make sure you wakey wakey, it’s time for breaky. B, L (daily). 222 Island Ave., downtown, 619.236.9902, cafe222.com Café ChloeCL002691 French. Aiming to bring some French culture to S.D.’s hippest hood, Café Chloe is intimate and charming, with creative and exciting French fare. The New York Times and the Boston Globe were wowed by this café, and not just for its proximity to the ballpark. B, L, D (daily). 721 Ninth Ave. #1, East Village, 619.232.3242, cafechloe.com

Café JapengoCL002691 Japanese. Located in the restaurant village of the Aventine, Café Japengo is a stylish and sophisticated lunch and dinner spot across from the Hyatt Regency La Jolla. The restaurant’s specialty is sushi, which it takes very seriously, with an always-busy sushi bar and a la carte delights that range from traditional to modern. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8960 University Center Lane, La Jolla-Golden Triangle, 858.450.3355, cafejapengo.com Café SevillaCL0026931 International. If you’re just mad about saffron—and the cuisine and culture of España, for that matter— head to downtown’s Café Sevilla. In a Spanish-themed dining room with matador art on the walls and a huge tin bull installed above the bar, feast on rich tapas such as olives, paella, pork skewers, empanadas and fresh seafood. Pitchers of fragrant sangria and live flamenco dinner shows will have you shouting “Olé!” D (nightly), Br (Su). 353 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.5979, cafesevilla.com h Candelas Mexican/Southwestern. A sexy, candlelit atmosphere defines the downtown location of this chic Mexico City-style eatery, whose sister spot at Coronado’s Ferry Landing has priceless bay and skyline views. Favorite dishes include tequila-flambéed lobster tail and steamed, ahi-stuffed artichoke hearts in zucchini flower sauce.

D (nightly) at both locations; Br (Su), L (M-F) in Coronado only. 416 Third Ave., downtown, 619.702.4455; 1201 First St. #115, Coronado, 619.435.4900. candelas-sd.com h Casa de Bandini Mexican/Southwestern. Located in the outdoor Forum at Carlsbad shopping center, Casa de Bandini channels old Mexico, from the handmade lanterns, bubbling fountain and colorful folk art that decorate the space to the regional classics cooking in the kitchen. Famous for its giant

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margaritas, the restaurant’s vast menu includes shrimp and mango tacos, a carnitas burrito, seafood specialties, breakfast options and more. L, D (daily). 1901 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.634.3443, casadebandini.com

BON VIN W I N E

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542 5TH AVENUE SAN DIEGO 619.702.8377 BONVINSANDIEGO.COM

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h CaSa GUadalajaRa Mexican/Southwestern. Find traditional Mexican cuisine in a hacienda-style setting at this Old Town favorite not far from historical attractions and shopping. The menu features regional specialties such as enchiladas and burritos, as well as a wide selection of seafood. Dine indoors or on the shaded patio in the lush courtyard garden. Pitchers of frosty margaritas, strolling mariachis and festive décor complete the experience. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 4105 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.295.5111, casaguadalajara.com h CHaRT HOUSE american. From coast to coast, the Chart House is synonymous with exceptional waterfront dining. At the Cardiff location, enjoy panoramic 3:14 PM views of the Pacific—sliding glass doors open to bring crashing waves and spectacular sunsets that much closer. The menu includes Chart House standards—the macadamiacrusted white sea bass or slowroasted prime rib, for example—as well as dishes that take advantage of local seafood offerings and regional flavors. L (W-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2588 S. Coast Highway 101, Cardiff, 760.436.4044, chart-house.com COWBOy STaRCL0026981 Steak. This downtown steakhouse, with its exposed-beam ceilings, large leather booths, stark landscape photography and cozy fireplace, brings a touch of Old West style to the neighborhood. The adjacent butcher shop ensures that the meats, like the USDA Prime 35-day dry-aged beef, are top quality. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 640 10th Ave., East Village, 619.450.5880, thecowboystar.com

CRafT + COMMERCECL9007920 american. As the name implies, this often-packed Little Italy bar/ restaurant is a union of strange bedfellows, right down to the quirky décor (urban-industrial meets library chic). On the menu, hearty dishes like roasted bone marrow and fried chicken are complemented by a rotating selection of two dozen craft beers and potent old-fashioned cocktails. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy, 619.269.2202, craft-commerce.com CROCE’SCL002690 american. If it’s downtown buzz you’re after, head to Croce’s, owned and operated by Ingrid Croce, whose late husband was singer/songwriter Jim Croce. Located in a cavernous building in the heart of downtown’s dining and party scene, Croce’s offers great American dining in a lively setting. B, L (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 802 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.4355., croces.com CROWn ROOMCL002691 Breakfast. Wizard of Oz author L. Frank Baum is credited for designing the crown chandeliers that hang from the Crown Room’s 33-foot-high, vaulted pine ceiling. Today’s visitors can soak in the historic elegance while savoring the gourmet Sunday brunch created at multiple distinct dining stations. Options might include madeto-order omelets, waffles, cheeses and charcuterie, shellfish, prime rib, desserts and such kick-starting classics as mimosas and Bloody Marys. Br (Su). 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490, hoteldel.com/dining CUCina URBanaCL0026948 italian. This always-bustling hotspot in Bankers Hill features antipasti, pizza and pasta from Chef Joe Magnanelli, as well as a retail wine shop heavy on Italian varietals. The cozy neighborhood kitchen’s chic décor combines contemporary touches with vintage accents.

Don’t miss the ricotta-stuffed fried

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squash blossoms. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 505 Laurel St., Bankers Hill, 619.239.2222, cucinaurbana.com DOnOvan’SCL00269 Steak. Donovan’s is a true-blue steakhouse, from the mahogany and delicate lighting to the mouth-watering Prime cuts of beef that define the classic menu. The restaurant also serves top-quality pork and veal chops and fresh local seafood, coupled with classic sides. Perfect for business and romantic dinners. D (nightly downtown; M-Sa in La Jolla). 4340 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla-Golden Triangle, 858.450.6666; 570 K St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.237.9700. donovanssteakhouse.com EDDiE v’S PRimE SEafOODCL003821 Seafood. This upscale La Jolla seafood haven is complete with fire pits, live music in the indoor/outdoor lounge and a dining room with 200-degree views of the Pacific. But the food is as much a reason to visit as the view. Find seafood classics like shrimp cocktail, ahi tartare and lobster bisque, plus 28-day aged Prime center-cut steaks. 1270 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.5500, eddiev.com El aGavECL002694 mexican/Southwestern. This upstairs spot near Old Town State Historic Park has innovative nouvelle Mexican cuisine—think: blue masa tlacoyos and cactus-leaf salad—and over 2,000 varieties of the finest tequila on the market. Dine indoors or on the sunlit patio. L, D (daily).

2304 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.220.0692, elagave.com El TaKE iT EaSyCL900792 mexican/Southwestern. No burritos at this cool, urban Tijuana-inspired “gastrocantina” in North Park.

Instead, try the house-cured country ham, pork belly tacos or rabbit cazuela, all made with sustainably grown ingredients sourced from small family farms. Wash it down with a craft beer, cool wine spritzer or something

from the cocktail list, which leans heavily on bourbons, tequilas and single-village mescals. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 3926 30th St., North Park, 619.291.1859, eltakeiteasy.com ExTRaORDinaRy DESSERTSCL00269 Desserts. The desserts at Karen Krasne’s two signature restaurants are truly extraordinary. The cozy original location in Hillcrest became so popular that the owners opened another in Little Italy. The menu changes daily but always includes a mouth-watering array of decadent and delicious desserts. The airy, modern Little Italy location also serves paninis, salads, bruschetta and offers a weekly cheese bar (W). Open daily. 1430 Union St., Little Italy, 619.294.7001 and 2929 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.2132, extraordinarydesserts.com GEORGE’S aT THE COvECL0026931 California Cuisine. This foodiefriendly La Jolla landmark offers three distinct dining experiences and a side of picture-perfect ocean views. Hang out in the laid-back George’s Bar before sampling Chef Trey Foshee’s daily menu of inventive California cuisine in the upscale George’s California Modern dining room. The rooftop Ocean Terrace is a favorite weekend spot with its casual bistro fare. L, D (daily). 1250 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244, georgesatthecove.com GRanT GRillCL002693 California Cuisine. Grant Grill’s been a downtown power spot for business and political leaders since it opened in 1951. The legendary restaurant reopened in 2006 with a renovated interior and menu. Dark woods, leather booths and crisp white linens provide a sophisticated backdrop for contemporary California cuisine crafted by Chef Mark Kropczynski. Movers and shakers only interested in shaken or stirred, take note—mixologist Jeff Josenhans is one of the country’s rising cocktail stars. B, L, D (daily). 326 Broadway, downtown, 619.744.2077, grantgrill.com

One Market Place | San Diego | CA | 92101 | 619.358.6740 /SallysSeafoodontheWater

@SallysSeafood

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h Greystone Steak. The flavors and culinary traditions of Europe and the Pacific Rim converge at Greystone.

The steakhouse features Prime-aged meats, seafood and fresh pastas, as well as an extensive wine selection.

Dine alfresco on the sidewalk patio, or escape the Gaslamp crowds and cozy up to Greystone’s mezzanine fireplace. D (nightly). 658 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.0225, greystonethesteakhouse.com Hash House a Go GoCL002693 Breakfast. Famous for its king-sized portions, the Hash House is where San Diegans go when they’re hungry. Really hungry. Always bustling with locals, the restaurant’s decadent and delightful food often warrants a doggy bag. The setting is casual and friendly, with one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods just steps away.

Expect a long wait for weekend brunch. B, L (daily); D (Tu-Su). 3628 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.4646, hashhouseagogo.com

Serving San Diego since 1961, this Old Town legend is famous for delicious Scampi Giulio, homemade pastas, seafood and veal. Patio dining. Full bar.

2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town • (619) 294-2074 • www.jackandgiulios.com

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Humphreys Restaurant

Waterfront Dining featuring Modern Global Cuisine Award-winning wine list San Diego’s favorite Sunday Brunch Live music nightly in Humphreys Backstage LIVE 2241 Shelter Island Drive humphreysrestaurant.com • 619.224.3577

HerringboneCL003807 Seafood. The fifth installment in celebrity Chef Brian Malarkey’s culinary empire offers “ocean bazaar” cuisine in an indoor/oudoor setting that evokes the feel of an Old World market, complete with 100-year-old olive trees. Dishes like king salmon with duck fat confit, Alaskan halibut with beef shin and whole fish ceviche are prepared by fellow Top Chef veteran Amanda Baumgarten.

L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 7837 Herschel Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.0221, herringboneeats.com

h Humphreys Restaurant Seafood. This San Diego landmark, which offers waterfront dining, an extensive wine list and live music every night of the week, features contemporary global cuisine with eco-friendly ingredients, including sustainable seafood, local produce and farm-raised beef. The elegant interior complements one

of the finest views in town. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577, humphreysrestaurant.com Indigo GrillCL0026938 Eclectic/Fusion. Even as competition has sprouted up around it, Little Italy’s Indigo Grill continues to reign as a neighborhood favorite. Award-winning Chef Deborah Scott’s flavors span the West Coast, from Alaska to Oaxaca in the south of Mexico. The Indian corn pudding and butternut squash soup have legendary status among locals.

The eye-catching décor mixes the primitive and the refined, a reflection of the fusion fare, and the crowd ranges from post-work to big-evening-out. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1536 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.6802, dinecrg.com h Jack and Giulio’s Italian. Formerly known as Giulio’s of Pacific Beach, this familyoperated, Italian restaurant in Old Town is a perennial favorite. A sure menu bet is the scampi alla Giulio, served since 1961 and befitting its proud name. Also choose from homemade pastas, veal, poultry, beef and fresh seafood—all just waiting to be paired with a robust Italian wine. Full bar. D (nightly). 2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.294.2074, jackandgiulios.com h JRDN California Cuisine. The beachfront hotel Tower23 upped the culinary ante in Pacific Beach when it launched JRDN. Dramatic lighting, teak-wood accents and water and fire features are part of the ultramodern décor. Dine indoors or out on the patio—gorgeous ocean views abound. JRDN’s menu features contemporary California fresh cuisine (steaks and seafood) with an emphasis on seasonal flavors. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su); B (daily) during summer.

723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736, jrdn.com

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JsixCL002694 California Cuisine. Jazzy and contemporary, Jsix is a great spot to unwind and get your groove on. In the middle of the downtown action, the Jsix dining room swaps boring beige for bright colors and original flourishes—check out the wall of fezzes.

Chef Christian Graves’ menu takes care to spotlight plenty of local produce and housemade garnishes. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 616 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.531.8744, jsixsandiego.com KatsuyaCL003809 Japanese. This restaurant at the Andaz Hotel marks the eighth collaboration between Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi and the famed designer Philippe Starck. The menu features unique rolls, sashimi platters and signature dishes like yellowtail with jalapeño and miso-marinated black cod. L (M-F), D (nightly). 600 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.849.1234, sandiego.andaz.hyatt.com KITCHEN 1540CL900796 California Cuisine. Farm-to-table is the concept at this eatery at L’Auberge Del Mar hotel. Executive Chef Scott Dolbee crafts dishes like whole roasted Tai snapper and pan-seared black cod, all with seasonal accompaniments. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1540 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.793.6460, laubergedelmar.com/kitchen1540 h La Piñata Mexican/Southwestern. Located in a house where Mexican food has been served since the 1920s, La Piñata continues the tradition, offering a host of flavorful Mexican favorites like fajitas, carnitas, pork chile verde, carne asada and shrimp.

Drinks and eats are served in festive, fiesta-style dining rooms—one with golf course views—or on the colordrenched patio, accompanied by live mariachi music. B, L, D (daily). 2836 Juan St., Old Town, 619.297.1631, lapinataoldtown.com

The LinkeryCL002694 California Cuisine. Named one of the best farm-to-table restaurants in America, this easygoing local spot features housemade sausages, pasta, small plates and other entrées made with sustainable ingredients sourced from small farms, plus specialty beers and wine. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3794 30th St., North Park, 619.255.8778, thelinkery.com The Lion’s ShareCL00362 American. Wedged between three higher-profile neighborhoods, this new hotspot is a hidden gem you’ll want to keep all to yourself. Exposed brick and old-timey Edison bulbs lend the place a metropolitan feel, while Chef Lhasa Landry’s adventurous menu includes wild boar ribs, stuffed quail and antelope sliders. Don’t miss the cocktails, an updated spin on classic recipes. D (nightly). 629 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 619.564.6924, lionssharesd.com

POSEIDON RESTAURANT On the Beach

1670 Coast Blvd. Del Mar (858) 755-9345 www.poseidonrestaurant.com

Marine RoomCL0026950 French. With arguably the best food and location in town, the Marine Room sits practically in the ocean at La Jolla Shores beach.

Come during high tide, when the waves lap against the window panes and the surfers look like they could hit the windows at any moment.

Chef Bernard Guillas’ food is outrageously innovative and exceptional; the service is formal, but not stuffy, and the ambiance is second to none. D (nightly). 2000 Spindrift Drive, La Jolla, 858.459.7222, marineroom.com MarketCL0026951 California Cuisine. Innovative food from chef/owner Carl Schroeder has made Market a winner for local gourmands and visitors to the nearby racetrack. Schroeder gets his vegetables fresh daily from nearby Chino Farms and the dinner menu changes nightly. D (nightly). 3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.523.0007, marketdelmar.com

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1041 4th Ave (at Broadway) San Diego, CA 92101 (619) 238-8380 www.urbanindiasd.com

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Mille FleursCL0026953 French. Mille Fleurs is one of San Diego’s top special-occasion restaurants. At this out-of-the-way location in tony Rancho Santa Fe, you’ll find elegant haute cuisine in a setting of unparalleled grace. French owner Bertrand has been in the business forever and has risen to the top of his game. The menu of spectacular French fare changes daily depending on what’s freshly available at nearby Chino Farms. L (Tu-F), D Paseo Delicias, (nightly). 6009 Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.3085, millefleurs.com

MistralCL9006843 Mediterranean. Chef Patrick Ponsaty, a fifth-generation toque with 15 Michelin stars to his credit, leads the oceanview dining room at the Loews Coronado Bay Resort. Mistral cultivates many of its own fruits, vegetables and herbs in the resort’s 3,800-square-foot garden and sources additional ingredients from local farmers, fishermen and artisans to create signature dishes like sautéed wild sea bass with orange blossom mousse. D (Tu-Sa), Br (Su). 4000 Coronado Bay Road, Coronado, 619.424.4000, dineatmistral.com

misión 19CL0026953 Eclectic/Fusion. Chef Javier Plascencia’s BajaMed cuisine has been recognized by The New Yorker and The New York Times for its innovative use of local ingredients (don’t miss the tender octopus and savory beef tongue), complemented by a full slate of wines from the nearby Valle de Guadalupe wine country. Housed in a state-of-the-art office tower in Tijuana’s Zona Rio, the modern restaurant also features an upstairs bar with great city views. Reservations recommended. L, D (MSa). Misión San Javier 10643, second floor, Tijuana, 664.634.2493, mision19.com

h Morton’s Steak. Part of the popular steakhouse chain, the San Diego location offers everything you’d expect from this national favorite. Succulent steaks—we love the Cajun ribeye—and fresh seafood specialties are among the many menu selections available. Home to one of the best martinis in town, the restaurant features a stylish, comfortable setting, near the Convention Center.

D (nightly). 285 J St., downtown, 619.696.3369, mortons.com

Mission CafésCL0026954 Breakfast. The Mission Cafés are a San Diego institution. Show up here on a weekend morning and find a crowd of locals and visitors eager to get at the delicious egg scrambles, health-food specials and delectable rosemary potatoes. The Mission had a healthy, hearty “power” menu long before most restaurants caught on to the fact that tofu sells just as well as bacon. The Mexican fusion dishes are also superb.

Come hungry. B, L (daily). 2801 University Ave., North Park, 619.220.8992; 3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.9060; 1250 J St., East Village, 619.232.7662. themissionsd.com

Nine-TenCL0026957 California Cuisine. The outdoor tables at this über-classy spot in the Grande Colonial hotel make peoplewatching on La Jolla’s main thoroughfare a delight. The food is also delightful, with innovative offerings and an elaborate, award-winning wine list. Chef Jason Knibb’s seasonally-changing dinner menu offers a mix of classic and contemporary in dishes like the fork-tender port-braised short ribs topped with chanterelle mushroom foam. B, L, D (daily). 910 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.964.5400, nine-ten.com NobuCL9006721 Japanese. After conquering New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and Las Vegas, celebrity Chef Nobu Matsuhisa brings his global brand to downtown San Diego with this sleek

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spot in the Hard Rock Hotel. You’ll find a raw bar as well as signature hot dishes including black cod with miso and abalone in garlic sauce, when it’s in season. D (nightly). 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.814.4124, noburestaurants.com/san-diego h OcEanaiRE SEafOOd ROOm Seafood. No pesky iceberg will ruin your experience at Oceanaire.

The retro supper club has the feel of an elegant 1930s ocean liner— all dark woods, sleek curves and crisp white linens—but it’s docked safely in the middle of the Gaslamp.

Such vintage-style luxury is the perfect backdrop for seafood so fresh it tastes just plucked from the sea.

Perch at the Oyster Bar and throw back some decadent mollusks and a dirty martini. Or slide into a cozy, high-backed leather booth and take your pick from the high-end restaurant’s changing menu, printed daily.

Sides are a la carte. Bon voyage. D (nightly). 400 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.858.2277, theoceanaire.com h OSETRa THE fiSHHOUSE Seafood. Indulge in caviar, vodka and oysters at this progressive eatery, whose three-sided bar encircles a dramatic three-story wine tower.

Prime-aged meats are also on the menu, along with pastas and a wide array of seafood appetizers and entrées. D (nightly). 904 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.1800, osetrafishhouse.com h OSTERia PanEvinO italian. In Italy, pane and vino are an essential part of the national cuisine, which is meant to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace with plenty of conversation. Osteria Panevino feels like an authentic Tuscan eatery. The rustic farmhouse ambience, lengthy wine list and housemade Italian pastas conjure the sights, sounds and smells of the Old World right in the heart of the Gaslamp. L, D (daily). 722 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.595.7959, osteriapanevino.com

h PEOHE’S Seafood. From the waterfall in the foyer to the giant palm fronds and lava rock throughout the tiered dining room, this waterfront restaurant is a tropical treasure. Indulge in Island-style dining against the jawdropping, floor-to-ceiling views of San Diego Bay and the downtown skyline. Not surprisingly, fresh seafood with a Polynesian flair and sushi are top-selling items. Peohe’s is accessible by land or water—just pull your yacht to the dock. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1201 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4474, peohes.com h POSEidOn RESTaURanT american. Poseidon’s beachfront deck offers a relaxed dining experience day or night. Dinner entrées such as bone-in rib-eye rubbed with rosemary and Kona coffee, cioppino and ginger-pesto day boat scallops make up the contemporary, eclectic menu. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1670 Coast Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.9345, poseidonrestaurant.com

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h THE PRadO aT BalBOa PaRK international. Nestled among the museums and attractions in Balboa Park, The Prado takes the trophy for prime location. With its vibrant décor and eclectic international tapas, the restaurant is a contender for citywide favorite. Spanish Revival architecture, kaleidoscopic hand-blown glass and unparalleled alfresco views on the terrace serve as a lovely backdrop to California cuisine with Latin and Mediterranean influences. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). 1549 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.557.9441, dinecrg.com REd liGHT diSTRicT CL00381 american. This Gaslamp Quarter hotspot pays homage to the neighborhood’s rough-and-tumble past, when it was full of gambling halls and saloons. In the kitchen, Chef Jason Maitland oversees a global menu that fuses French and Asian flavors with American comfort food (think:

Mexican Restaurant

2836 Juan St., San Diego • 619.297.1631 Old Town’s oldest restaurant, La Piñata is a local favorite for lunch, dinner and cocktails. Live Mariachi; heated patio; free parking.

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bacon-fat mac ’n’ cheese and cast-iron baked escargot). L, D (daily). 409 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.2800, rldsd.com h RicHaRd WalKER’S PancaKE HOUSE Breakfast. Since 1948, the Walker family has been serving gourmet breakfast and lunch favorites. The chain originated in the Chicago area and made its way to San Diego in 2006, opening at the base of downtown’s Pinnacle Museum Tower. Choose from classic griddlecakes, crepes, omelets or the signature Brittany-style apple puffed pancake. The weekend wait looks long, but is orderly and moves quickly. B, L (daily). 520 Front St., downtown, 619.231.7777, richardwalkers.com ROPPOnGiCL0026973 Eclectic/Fusion. This popular Eastmeets-West eatery is helmed by Chef Stephen Window, who brings expertise in classic French technique and a savviness for Pacific Rim flavors.

Savor inventive sushi rolls and buttery sashimi, or choose from the tapas menu, which includes sesamecrusted tiger shrimp, dynamite shrimp with crabmeat and crispy tofu with miso ginger, ginger soy and red pimiento dipping sauces.

The wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence several years running. L, D (daily). 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252, roppongiusa.com h Sally’S SEaFOOd On THE WaTER Seafood. This marine venue at the Manchester Grand Hyatt, which comes complete with knockout views and an exhibition kitchen, is one of San Diego’s best-kept secrets. The seafood-heavy menu includes creations like chili-cumin diver scallops and crab cakes with tomato relish and Old Bay aioli. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 1 Market Place, Embarcadero, 619.358.6740, sallyssandiego.com

SEaRSUcKERCL9007928 american. At this always-hopping Gaslamp Quarter hotspot, fedorawearing Top Chef finalist Brian Malarkey crafts a bold, flavorful menu that ranges from a mammoth 32-oz. ribeye steak to mini appetizer bites. The enormous space features an exhibition kitchen and see-andbe-seen square bar, where guests can sip on drinks designed by Snake Oil Cocktail Company. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.7327, searsucker.com SnOOzE, an a.M. EaTERyCL003805 Breakfast. For the omelet-addicted, waffle-dependent among us, Snooze is a godsend. Housed in a massive, sunlit space in Hillcrest, Snooze’s menu deifies the Benedict—including one with honey-smoked salmon on bacon-jalapeño spoonbread— and serves pancakes in flights like fine wine. They’ve got burgers, salads, shrimp ’n’ grits and other lunch fare, too. B, L (daily). 3940 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.500.3344, snoozeeatery.com/san-diego SOlacE 3802 california cuisine. Sister to North Park’s Urban Solace, this North County spot from Executive Chef Matt Gordon offers quality dining without scaring away the taco-stand types. Get situated in the groundfloor dining room or head to the upstairs raw bar for oysters and seared albacore in the more casual Moonlight Lounge. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 25 East E St., Encinitas, 760.753.2433, eatatsolace.com STaRliTECL900670 california cuisine. Behind its hexagonal entryway, this hip, sleek bar/ restaurant spotlights farm-to-table cuisine—including one of the town’s top burgers, served on a buttery brioche bun—and signature cocktails including the Starlite Mule, served in a rustic copper mug. Don’t miss the stunning chandelier suspended over

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the sunken bar. 21+ only. D (nightly), Br (Su). 3175 India St., Midtown, 619.358.9766, starlitesandiego.com STOnE BREWinG WORld BiSTRO and GaRdEnSCL900649 Brewpubs. Known for “big character” beers with clever names like Arrogant Bastard and Ruination IPA, Stone’s enormous North County brewery serves beer-friendly food made from organic, local ingredients—many from their own nearby farm—and also offers a behind-thescenes tour, complete with free samples. L, D (daily). 1999 Citracado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999, stonebrew.com h TaPEnadE BiSTRO French. Epicures flock to this critically acclaimed French restaurant, where veteran NYC Chef Jean-Michel Diot creates robust, enticing flavors that honor his Provençal roots. Choose from a number of menus, including lunch (salads, soups, light entrées) and dinner options (from caviar to filet au poivre), as well as tasting selections, vegetarian options and les fromages et desserts. And, of course, vin. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.7500, tapenaderestaurant.com ndERBEllyCL00380 U Japanese. Build your own elevated noodle creation from toppings like bacon-wrapped mushrooms and kimchi octopus at this hip, casual ramen bar. For something lighter, try the seven-radish salad or the oysters with pickled watermelon sake mignonette paired with a bottle of Japanese beer. While you slurp down your dinner (sorry, no spoons allowed) notice the living, wall-sized reproduction of Warhol’s Chairman Mao portrait, crafted from more than 3,000 succulents. L, D (daily). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.269.4626, godblessunderbelly.com h URBan india international. Part Indian buffet, part sports bar, Urban India comes

equipped with a full-service bar, flatscreen TVs and an extensive menu of Punjabi fare. Northern Indian favorites include goat curry and kadi pakoda, or deep-fried veggie dumplings in yogurt curry, among many vegetarian and vegan options. L, D (daily).

1041 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.238.8380, urbanindiasd.com URBan SOlacECL9006470 american. Enjoy new American comfort food in low-lit modern ambiance. The upscale comfort-food menu is warm to the core with its cheese biscuits with orange honey butter, pan-roasted black mussels in smoked tomato butter, and sweet potato fries with Maytag blue cheese buttermilk dressing. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 3823 30th St., North Park, 619.295.6464, urbansolace.net vivacECL002698 italian. The most opulent of the Aviara resort’s four restaurants, Vivace’s posh surroundings—fine crystal, velvet banquettes, soft lighting—may leave you starry-eyed, but the earthy food will bring you back to terra firma. Rustic wood-fired fowl, grilled Kurobuta pork and seasonal vegetables share the menu with imaginative pastas and risottos.

D (M-Sa), Br (Su). 7100 Four Seasons Point, Carlsbad, 760.448.1234, vivace-restaurant.com

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EnBU SUSHiCL0026984 z Japanese. The hippest sushi joint you’ll ever find in a strip mall, Zenbu’s contemporary rolls are made with seafood caught by the owner’s own fleet of fishing boats. Ask about the sushi bar’s off-the-menu creations. D (nightly). 7660 Fay Ave. #1, La Jolla, 858.454.4540; 2003 San Elijo Ave, Cardiff, 760.633.2223. zenbusushi.com

Open 7 days a week 6:30 am – 2:30 pm FOR MORE liSTinGS, SEE WHERE SAN DIEGO MaGazinE, WHERESD.COM OR THE WHERE USA APP

520 Front street, just south of market downtown san diego 619-231-7777 richardwalkers.com

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TAPenADe BisTRO

An evening at La Jolla’s esteemed Tapenade is like an escape to Paris, from the restaurant’s classic French dishes like escargots and coq au vin to its atmosphere brimming with joie de vivre. Chef and owner Jean-Michel Diot, whose culinary style is rooted in traditional Provençal bistro with a hint of California modern, works closely with local organic farmers to bring the freshest ingredients to his aromatic food. A landmark among local gourmands, Tapenade continues to impress new guests with its mix of seasonal and mainstay appetizers (Maine Jonah crab salad, wild mushroom ravioli), main courses (roasted duck leg confit, lobster and white corn) and, of course, “Les Desserts” (warm chocolate fondant with Grand Marnier). The restaurant also boasts an extensive wine list with offerings from the Old World and new. L (T-F), D (daily). Reservations are recommended.

MenU HiGHLiGHTs Starters and Bar Menu Mache and sylvetta greens traditional Burgundy escargots artisanal charcuterie plate smoked scottish salmon Housemade wild mushroom petrossian caviar Yukon gold potato gnocchi Maine lobster bisque niçoise salad Maine Jonah crab salad Mussels marinière, white wine and onion tiger shrimp cocktail lamb slider, mint and garlic aioli paté grand-Mère Maryland crab cake with rémoulade Entrees lobster white corn and porcini aged sirloin steak and fries alaskan King salmon traditional coq au vin diver Maine scallops Fish du jour, citrus and tomato broth roasted duck leg confit lamb duo, rack and braised shoulder Berkshire pork duo tenderloin and belly veal tenderloin and eggplant napoleon Wild mushroom risotto Desserts cheese plate with walnut bread classic profiterole with chocolate sauce Meyer lemon tart with red berry coulis chocolate fondant with grand Marnier passion fruit cheesecake Warm apple crumble california strawberry soup

7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla

858.551.7500

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CanDELaS ConTEMporary CuISInE

MEnu HIGHLIGHTS Entradas tacos de pato paleo burrito estructura de aguacate tacos de camarón enchilados tacos de carnitas ahi tuna tower ceviche Ensaladas, Sopas y Pastas ensalada de espinacas ensalada de palmitos roast beef salad ensalada veracruz ensalada cesar with chicken crema de cuatro quesos al chile pasilla sopa de tortilla crema de poblano crema de frijol santa Fe chicken pasta penne madeira

Candelas—which means “candles,” in Spanish—has become San Diego’s go-to spot for savoring the culinary flavors of Mexico City. In slang, this south-of-the-border style is known as “Chilango.” Translated, that means a menu focused on farm-fresh ingredients and innovative dishes that range from exquisite takes on sopas, ensaladas and pastas to exceptionally seasoned seafood, poultry and meat entrées. The restaurant has earned a well-deserved reputation for romantic ambience—think flickering lights that cast sultry shadows, hip Euro tunes, four-star service and a wine list that would put anyone in the mood. With locations in the Gaslamp Quarter and Coronado, Candelas offers urban-chic or waterfront options. Either way, it’s sure to be a memorable experience. Gaslamp location: D (nightly). Coronado location: Br (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (nightly).

416 Third ave., Gaslamp Quarter

619.702.4455 1201 First St., #115, Coronado

Pescados y Mariscos salmon epazote Mahi mahi with dill camarones 1/2 pound la pesca Chef Specialties Manjar vallarta Filete las flores placer poblano rib eye bolivar Carnes y Aves pollo al mole chile relleno pollo al chipotle carne asada a la tampiqueña Molcajete norteño Vegetariano torre de berengena el jardin

619.435.4900 candelas-sd.com

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ARTS, NIGHTLIFE & ATTRACTIONS FUN TIMES AWAIT FOR KIDS AND ADULTS ALIKE. FROM BARS AND CLUBS TO MUSEUMS AND THEATer TO THEME PARKS, MONUMENTS and one very famous zoo: IT’S ALL right HERE.

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aTTRacTiOnS aTTRacTiOnS

MEMPHIS

BROaDWay BOUnD San Diego doesn't have the reputation as an arts destination that, say, new york or San francisco enjoy, but that's only if you're not paying attention. in

BalBOa PaRKCL0000333662 At 1,200 acres, this lush green space overlooking downtown San Diego is the largest urban cultural park in the country, home to more than 15 museums, theaters and other cultural institutions, as well as the Spreckels Organ, the world’s largest outdoor musical instrument.

You’ll also find several spectacular gardens showcasing anything from succulents and palm trees to roses and perennials, plus various facilities for sports and recreation, trails for hiking and mountain biking and Irving Gill’s historic Marston House, one of the finest examples of Arts & Crafts architecture in the U.S. Balboa Park, San Diego, 619.239.0512, balboapark.org

fact, many plays and musicals that originated locally or were workshopped here have gone on to play on Broadway and, in the case of la jolla Playhouse's Memphis, to win Tonys—lots of 'em. four shows that debuted on Broadway in 2011 and 2012 had their roots in la jolla, including former Playhouse artistic director Des Mcanuff's revival of Jesus Christ Superstar, Peter and the Starcatcher, john leguizamo's one-man-show Ghetto Klown and frank Wildhorn's Bonnie & Clyde musical. The latest to make the leap? Hands on a Hardbody, a new musical from amanda Green (Bring it On: The Musical) and Phish's Trey anastasio. The Old Globe's latest export was Harvey fierstein's A Catered Affair, which debuted on Broadway in 2008.

BElMOnT PaRK Located right on Mission Beach, Belmont Park has everything a visitor could want from a summertime beach experience: bumper cars, air hockey, arcades, carousels, cotton candy and Tilt-A-Whirls. New and old live side-by-side in the historic 1925-built Giant Dipper (a classic wooden roller coaster), the Octotron thrill-ride and the Wavehouse (complete with the Flowrider, a simulated wave ride for surfing and body-boarding). 3146 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach 858.228.9283, belmontpark.com BiRcH aQUaRiUM aT ScRiPPS Educational and entertaining, the aquarium features an eye-popping assortment of Pacific marine life and lots of creative, hands-on exhibits highlighting the ongoing research and discoveries of the world-renowned Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Kids will love it—

“Hey, is that Nemo?!”—and grownups will leave feeling more informed about the planet’s vastest habitat: the ocean. Check the calendar for special events and activities for children and adults. 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.3474, aquarium.ucsd.edu caBRillO naTiOnal MOnUMEnT When Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo first gazed on San Diego Bay in 1542, he called the area “a very good enclosed port.” Later, Point Loma would be home to a historic lighthouse and Fort Rosecrans, a key cog in the coastal defense system. Now Cabrillo National Monument gives visitors the best views of downtown and sweeping ocean vistas. 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma 619.557.5450, nps.gov/cabr h cinÉPOliS lUxURy cinEMaS Latin America’s luxury theater chain made its first entry into the U.S. market with these two San Diego-area locations. Leather recliners, plenty of legroom and in-seat food and drink service takes moviegoing to new levels of luxe. 12905 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.794.4045; 6941 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760.603.8638. cinepolisusa.com h HORnBlOWER cRUiSES With a fleet of seven vessels capable of carrying from 50 to 1,000 people, Hornblower runs daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay that get you up close and personal with some 50 major landmarks, from the Star of India to Cabrillo National Monument.

Also offered: whale watching, nightly romantic dinner cruises, a twohour Sunday Champagne brunch cruise, yacht charters, weddings and

private events. 1066 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.686.8715, hornblower.com lEGOlanDCL0000027015 Stemming from the popular building blocks made for children, Lego owns and operates five theme parks all over the world (including two in Germany). Carlsbad is home to the only American park, featuring more than 50 rides along with model attractions (called Minilands) designed and constructed by master Lego builders using only Lego blocks.

The Sea Life Aquarium is adjacent to the park and features educational and interactive entertainment, and a new water park includes a 45-foot water slide tower, a lazy river and more. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346, legoland.com MiSSiOn San DiEGO DE alcala Founded by Father Junípero Serra in 1769, Mission San Diego de Alcala has served as a historical monument and a working Catholic parish. The church was the first of California’s 21 missions. Pope Paul VI designated the mission a basilica in 1976. Soak in the history and architecture of the mission on a self-guided tour any day of the week. 10818 San Diego Mission Road, Mission Valley, 619.281.8449, missionsandiego.com REUBEn H. flEET SciEncE cEnTERCL0000027018 This hands-on science center makes learning a blast. Explore more than 100 interactive exhibits and Kid City, where scientists 5 and younger can climb into the driver’s seat of a model fire truck and play pretend in a mock grocery store checkout line. And the whole family can catch

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fascinating large-format films and planetarium shows at the IMAX Dome Theater. 1875 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.1233, rhfleet.org San Diego Botanic Garden Back in 1957, Charles and Ruth Larabee donated their 30-acre private estate in Encinitas to the county. The San Diego Botanic Garden, now run by a nonprofit organization, immerses visitors in colorful flora and fauna in this urban oasis. Docent-led tours are offered Saturdays at 10:30 am. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036, sdbgarden.org San Diego Chargers After taking over the reins in 2007, coach Norv Turner has led the NFL’s Chargers to the playoffs multiple times, aided by star players including quarterback Philip Rivers and tight end Antonio Gates. Tailgaiting is a must before Chargers games—it’s a San Diego tradition. Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 877.242.7437, chargers.com San Diego PadreS The National League’s San Diego Padres moved into their new downtown ballpark in 2004 and posted some nice numbers in the subsequent seasons, winning their division in 2006.

These days the team that gave the world Hall of Famer Tony Gwynn plays 81 games per year at Petco Park; the Friar mascot gets fans riled up, as do between-inning games and contests. Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., downtown, 877.374.2784, padres.com h San Diego Zoo As the old children’s rhyme goes: You W W W. T R O O N G O L F. CO M belong in the zoo. And at the worldfamous San Diego Zoo, visitors will be in good company with more than 4,000 creatures from nearly every corner of the world. Animals, both wellknown and unfamiliar, live in habitats rich with features and activities (the Elephant Odyssey, for example). The Zoo is a longtime leader in animal care and wildlife conservation, and

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it shows at this landmark San Diego attraction. 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515, sandiegozoo.org h San Diego Zoo’s Safari Park The Serengeti is thousands of miles away, but the 1,800-acre Safari Park (formerly the Wild Animal Park) lets visitors experience a safari right here in San Diego. More than 375 species roam the extensive exhibits, which are designed to resemble natural habitats like savannas, forests and lakes.

Guided and self-guided tours bring animal adventurers safely close to elephants, giraffes, gorillas, lions, antelopes, zebras, rhinos and more. 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 619.231.1515, sdzsafaripark.org SeaWorldCL0000027027 With San Diego’s connection to the Pacific Ocean, SeaWorld remains the signature theme park of America’s Finest City. From Dining with Shamu to Shipwreck Rapids, the park balances informative, fun aquatic shows with thrilling coasters. Get wet on the splashy Journey to Atlantis, or explore polar life in Base Station Wild Arctic. The new Turtle Reef attraction offers an up-close look at some 60 threatened or endangered sea turtles. 500 Sea World Drive, Mission Bay, 800.257.4268, seaworld.com h Spanish Village Art Center This artists’ haven includes 37 working studios and an outdoor patio area where visitors can watch resident artists create original works of art. With more than 200 artists represented, the center displays a large variety of paintings, glass, gourds, pottery, jewelry, sculpture, photography, fiber arts, enamel, woodwork and more. 1770 Village Place, Balboa Park, 619.233.9050, spanishvillageart.com USS MidwayCL9000007768 The world’s largest floating navalaviation museum, the USS Midway,

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showcases restored airplanes on the flight deck, while interactive exhibits are featured inside. The Midway is the world’s longest-serving aircraft carrier, and many of the storytelling docents are veterans who served onboard the carrier during its 47-year history. 910 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.544.9600, midway.org

CaSinOS BaROna VallEy RanCH RESORT and CaSinO This spot boasts more than 2,000 slot machines, 70+ table games, satellite wagering and a buffet. Daily, 24 hours. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 619.443.2300, barona.com h SyCUan CaSinO Find high-stakes bingo, pai gow poker, slots and four restaurants at the East County gambling hall, plus a 500-seat theater. Daily, 24 hours. 5469 Casino Way, El Cajon, 619.445.6002, sycuan.com ViEjaS CaSinOCL0000333846 This Alpine casino features more than 2,500 Vegas-style slots, table games, satellite wagering, high-stakes bingo, buffet and six restaurants. Daily, 24 hours. 5000 Willows Road, Alpine, 800.847.6537, viejas.com

GOlf la COSTa RESORT Measure your game against golfing’s elite at La Costa, the site of numerous PGA Tour events. Amid 400 acres in the coastal foothills of Carlsbad, La Costa features two 18-hole courses recently restored with a $20 million renovation. The site also features a driving range, equipment rental, Southern California’s only TOUR Golf Academy and unique programs offered on-site by the U.S. Golf Fitness Association and the Chopra Center. 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 800.854.5000, lacosta.com/golf h MadERaS GOlf ClUB This Johnny Miller- and Robert Muir Graves-designed course is set

in secluded canyons and ravines 20 minutes northeast of downtown, complemented by oaks, sycamores, creeks, lakes, waterfalls and 40 acres of native wildflowers. This 18-hole course plays to 7,115 yards from the back tees, and with five sets of tees it can be enjoyed by golfers of all skill levels. 17750 Old Coach Road, Poway, 858.451.8100, maderasgolf.com PaRK HyaTT aViaRaCL9000006343 The only Arnold Palmer signature golf course in San Diego, Aviara winds through rolling valleys with ocean views. Named by Golf Digest and Golf magazines as one of the best resort courses in America, and by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best in the world, the resort also welcomes non-guests to play. 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad, 760.603.6900, golfaviara.com

WILD AT HEART sandiegozoo.org

TORREy PinES GOlf COURSE Home of the PGA Tour’s annual Farmers Insurance Open and the 2008 U.S. Open, this is one of the best-known courses in America. (TigerWhereOC_Guestbook_Zoo_2012.indd Woods and local Phil Mickelson are among the greats who have played here.) The two courses have stunning ocean views from the bluffs above the Pacific, wide fairways and sloping greens. The seven and 12 holes on the South Course are two of the town’s toughest. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.552.1662, torreypinesgolfcourse.com

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sdzsafaripark.org

MUSEUMS CalifORnia SURf MUSEUM Founded in 1986, the California Surf Museum documents not just the history of San Diego’s surf culture, but the whole state’s. The museum’s occasional exhibitions explore classic surf photography, the evolution of surfboard design and relics from the sport’s golden era. From highly specialized gear to music, art and clothing, the museum’s small but informative collection tells the story of a life lived according to the way

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the waves are breaking. 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.721.6876, surfmuseum.org LUX ART INSTITUTECL9000006328 Challenging the traditional museum experience, Lux makes art more accessible by allowing viewers to “see art happen,” as the tagline says.

The unique space lets visitors engage with artists-in-residence in a studiolike environment. 1550 S. El Camino Real, Encinitas, 760.436.6611, luxartinstitute.org MINGEI INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM Mingei—or art of the people— takes center stage at the Mingei International Museum, which showcases a rich collection of handmade folk art, craft and design from all eras and cultures of the world. The museum’s upcoming exhibitions include an exploration of the evolution of contemporary Japanese ceramics and True Blue, a showcase of the various ways different cultures have used

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turquoise, lapis lazuli, cobalt and indigo, from Tibetan jewelry to fine glass art from Dale Chihuly. 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0003, mingei.org MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART SAN DIEGOCL9000006330 With two locations—coastal and city—the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego keeps native and visiting culture-vultures satiated with lectures, film series and rotating exhibitions that have included marquee art-world names as well as notable up-and-comers. MCASD La Jolla, perched above the dazzling Pacific, showcases the whimsical and charming outdoor Edwards Sculpture Garden, while the downtown galleries occupy the historic Santa Fe Depot and feature commissions from artists including Richard Serra, Jenny Holzer, Roman de Salvo and Richard Wright. 1001 and 1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown; 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.3541; mcasd.org

MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHIC ARTS Since 1983, the Museum of Photographic Arts has brought the best of moving and still images to San Diego, ranging from pure art photography to pointed social commentary.

The permanent collection consists of more than 7,000 images, from the earliest daguerreotypes to modern photojournalism. MoPA also shows films in its state-of-the-art theater and has one of Balboa Park’s coolest gift shops. 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559, mopa.org NEW CHILDREN’S MUSEUMCL0000333625 Designed just for kids, this awesome space downtown encourages its wee visitors to interact with the exhibits. 200 W. Island Ave., downtown, 619.233.8792, thinkplaycreate.org SAN DIEGO AIR & SPACE MUSEUMCL0000333626 This cavernous museum traces the history of human flight, from the earliest contraptions to military jets, all suspended from the ceiling above interactive, educational exhibits that tell the stories of the two world wars.

The 4D theater provides an immersive thrill for all ages. 2001 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.8291, sandiegoairandspace.org SAN DIEGO HALL OF CHAMPIONS MUSEUMCL0000027020 Balboa Park’s Hall of Champions honors the athletes that loom large in the annals of San Diego sporting his-

tory. The museum’s collection covers high school, college and professional sports, and includes contributions from baseball legend Ted Williams and boxer Archie Moore. Baseball and football exhibits highlight Padres and Chargers achievements. San Diego’s active extreme-sports scene isn’t overlooked either—skateboarder Tony Hawk also gets some serious recognition. 2131 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.2544, sdhoc.com SAN DIEGO MARITIME MUSEUM San Diego’s Maritime Museum is world famous for its beautifully preserved historic ships and collection of seafaring memorabilia. Take a tour of the magnificent Star of India, the world’s oldest active ship. Since her maiden voyage in 1863, she’s survived a mutiny, a collision and thousands of tourists. Now safely docked—except for a couple of exhibition sails each year—she’s a tall ship with plenty of tall tales just waiting to be imagined. 1492 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.234.9153, sdmaritime.com SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF ARTCL9000006334 Opened in 1926 as the Fine Arts Gallery of San Diego, the museum’s diverse collection today includes Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque works, 19th and 20th century American and European paintings and sculpture and a vast Asian collection.

Director Roxana Velásquez, formerly of Mexico City’s Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes, has launched exhibitions featuring works from sought-after foreign collections. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931, sdmart.org SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF MANCL0000027022 Located in the historic California Plaza at the center of Balboa Park, the Museum of Man is known as much for its architecture as its exhibitions—the museum’s California Tower is Balboa Park’s signature

EDWIN SANTIAGO

★ MUSEUM OF MAKING MUSIC In an effort to bring the story of American popular music to life, this museum showcases vintage musical instruments, interactive audio and visual exhibits, films, concerts and discussions that explore the history of music making in the U.S. from the 1890s to the present day. Current exhibitions look at innovations in saxophones (through January 2013). 5790 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, 760.438.5996, museumofmakingmusic.org

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landmark. Past exhibitions have spotlighted everything from ancient Egypt to medieval torture devices. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001, museumofman.org San DiEGO naTURal HiSTORy MUSEUMCL0000027023 Housed in a building designed by San Diego architect William Templeton Johnson (who also designed the nearby Museum of Art), the Natural History Museum hosts permanent exhibitions such as Fossil Mysteries (prehistory of Southern California and Baja) as well as temporary ones showcasing nature photography. The museum also features an extensive film schedule at its 300-seat giant-screen 3D theater. 1788 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.3821, sdnhm.org STUaRT cOllEcTiOn Of ScUlPTURE aT UcSDCL9000006335 The Stuart Collection of Sculpture is a group of several site-specific artworks scattered across the expansive 1,200-acre campus at UCSD. The commissioned pieces come from cutting-edge artists including Barbara Kruger, William Wegman, Robert Irwin (a major figure in the Light & Space movement) and Niki de Saint Phalle, whose iconic Sun God sculpture is not to be missed. A map of all works can be downloaded from the collection’s website for self-guided tours. UCSD, Gilman and La Jolla Village drives, La Jolla, 858.534.2117, stuartcollection.ucsd.edu

niGHTlifE lTiTUDE SKy lOUnGECL9000006350 a San Diego looks good from 22 stories up. The highest open-air rooftop bar in Southern California, Altitude Sky Lounge at the Marriott Gaslamp offers two full-service bars and a design that caters to comfort and style. Spectacular views of the harbor, downtown skyline and an inside peek into Petco Park can be enjoyed with VIP service. With plenty of ledge seating and a swank fire pit, Altitude Sky Lounge allows guests

to sit atop the world in style. 660 K St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.758.3507, altitudesandiego.com anTHOlOGy lOUnGECL9000006351 This Little Italy nightspot is a serious boon for dedicated jazz cats and foodies alike. With state-of-the-art sound equipment and sought-after talent both onstage and in the kitchen, this supper club is a feast for all senses. The farm-fresh American-Mediterranean cuisine comes courtesy of Chef Todd Allison; the musicians come from all over the world, sending strains of Latin jazz, swing and big-band wafting through the tri-level club. 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300, anthologysd.com Elly UP TaVERnCL9000006355 B Built in a converted Quonset hut, this intimate club has offered some of the best live music in the county since 1974. The lineup runs the gamut from local and indie bands to well-known names in folk, world, rock, country and so on. It’s a short haul from downtown San Diego, and well worth it. Be sure to check out rock poster art

by Scrojo, the Belly Up’s resident artist. 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.481.8140, bellyup.com

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HE caSBaHCL9000006844 T This small but legendary rock club has hosted superstars like Nirvana and Smashing Pumpkins way before they became household names.

You’ll know you’re at the right place by the metallic flames licking the building’s exterior blood-red walls. 2501 Kettner Blvd., Midtown, 619.232.4355, thecasbah.com lUxxCL9000006363 f This theatrical nightspot gets its name from the continually changing atmosphere. But it’s not only the chameleon-like décor that attracts S.D.’s trendiest clubgoers to the 11,000-square-foot nighclub’s central sunken dance floor: Fluxx’s sophisticated lighting and sound systems along with their barely

ExpEriEncE Music in a WholE nEW Way at the Museum of Making Music

5790 armada Drive carlsbad, california (760) 438-5996 www.Museumof MakingMusic.org

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clad bartenders make for unforgettable nights. Open Fri.-Sat., select Thurs. 500 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.8100, fluxxsd.com HOUSE Of BlUESCL9000006365 The well-established national juggernaut of music, folk art and Southern cuisine planted its flag in San Diego in 2005 and has since asserted itself as local monarch of live music and promotion. The walls of the multi-level venue are bedecked with vibrant folk art. Clientele at HOB largely depends on the type of band onstage, but music lovers across the spectrum relish its paramount sound-and-stage technology. 1055 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.299.2583, hob.com/sandiego

S P E N D A D AY A W AY FROM THE DAY TO DAY Indulge in Spa at The Del’s signature treatments.

Unwind with a Sheerwater seaside lunch.

Shop an exciting selection of outstanding boutiques.

A day at The Del is the perfect break from an overbooked life.

SAN DIEGO, CA

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THE IvyCL9000006361 This Gaslamp mega-club inside the Andaz Hotel is all about seeing and being seen. Or more precisely, being watched. The multi-level club boasts an unabashedly voyeuristic atmosphere, with mirrored surfaces, a scantily clad service staff and sumptuously textured décor. There’s a dance club in the basement, a street-level wine bar and a rooftop poolside lounge complete with intimate cabanas. Andaz Hotel, 600 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.814.1000, ivyentertainmentsandiego.com NOBlE ExpERImENTCL9000006367 Behind the wall of kegs in Neighborhood lies an exclusive speakeasy-style lounge with golden skulls, glittering chandeliers and knowledgeable bartenders ready to satisfy your every classic cocktail whim, with a twist. Be sure to request the “Dealer’s Choice,” when these mixology magicians whip up the perfect concoction based on your preferences and serve it over an iceberg-size ice cube. Reservations are arranged via text message, so ask a Neighborhood staffer for the secret number and get your request in early—the bar fills up fast. 777 G St., downtown, 619.888.4713, nobleexperimentsd.com

STINGaREECL9000006373 Ironically named for San Diego’s seedy red-light district of the 19th century, Stingaree today is the pinnacle of posh. No fewer than 22,000 square feet define the parameters of this ultrachic mega-club steps from Petco Park. A well-groomed urban demographic flush with disposable income populates the three-level space, from the street-level Guesthouse bar to the VIP mezzanine to the starlit rooftop lounge. 454 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.544.9500, stingsandiego.com vIN dE SyRaHCL9000006376 For a drink with a bit of whimsy, go down the rabbit hole at this Alice in Wonderland-themed underground wine and spirit lounge, whose imaginative décor includes grass growing up the walls, oversized wingback chairs and upside-down umbrellas suspended from the ceiling. Closed Mon. 901 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.234.4166, syrahwineparlor.com

pERfORmING aRTS BalBOa THEaTRECL9000006325 The Balboa Theatre has enjoyed a long and colorful life since its construction in 1924. Originally a vaudeville and movie palace, it was transformed in 1934 into the Teatro Balboa, used by the Navy during WWII, served as single-occupancy housing after that and in 1959 was rescued from possible demolition by the Russo family.

In 1986 the City purchased the theatre and in 2002 decided to restore and renovate the historical building. In January 2008, after many years and $26 million, the Balboa Theatre finally reopened its doors as a local, national and international performing venue.

868 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.570.1100, sandiegotheatres.org CyGNET THEaTRECL9000006849 Critics applaud the award-winning Cygnet Theatre, whose productions range from stage classics to world premieres, clever comedies to edgy browraisers. Shows take place at Cygnet’s

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intimate, 250-seat space in the heart of Old Town. Old Town Theatre, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.337.1525, cygnettheatre.com La JOLLa PLayHOUSECL9000006326 The Who’s Tommy. Memphis. Jersey Boys. All won a bevy of Tony Awards, and all premiered here, 3,000 miles off Broadway in La Jolla. This theater founded by Gregory Peck and others in 1947 has a storied history, and continues to draw top-flight original musical and theatrical productions.

2910 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010, lajollaplayhouse.org LamB’S PLayERS THEaTRECL9000006337 This ensemble theatrer company presents a year-round schedule of productions in two different venues—its resident stage, a beautiful 350-seat space in Coronado’s historic Spreckels Building, and the newly refurbished Horton Grand Theatre, an intimate 250-seat space in downtown San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter. This energetic company serves up an engaging range of comedies, musicals, classics, dramas and new work. 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado; Horton Grand Theatre, 444 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.437.0600. lambsplayers.org THE OLd GLOBE THEaTRECL9000006338 Mixing traditional Tudor architecture and Shakespearean staging with contemporary plays, the Old Globe, founded in 1935, brings high-quality theater to the heart of Balboa Park.

The complex actually holds three stages: the main Old Globe Theatre (capacity: 580), the more intimate White Theater arena stage and the outdoor Lowell Davies Festival Theatre, with 615 seats. In addition to its annual summer Shakespeare festival and popular holiday offering, Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, the Globe this year features the world premiere musical A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder (March/April 2013). 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park 619.234.5623, theoldglobe.org

San diEGO OPERaCL9000006339 Opera isn’t just Vikings in helmets and rotund ladies in braids anymore.

With an interactive Web site and informative podcasts, San Diego Opera continues to make strides to bring its beautiful music and theater to new audiences. Ranked by Opera America as one of the top 10 opera companies in the U.S., the company produces four operas a year at San Diego Civic Theatre. The 2013 season, which runs from January through April, includes The Daughter of the Regiment, Samson and Delilah, Murder in the Cathedral and Aida. 1100 Third Ave., downtown, 619.533.7000, sdopera.com San diEGO REPERTORy THEaTRECL9000006340 Small but prestigious, The Rep stages five to seven plays annually at the downtown Lyceum Theatre space, including a few—such as It Ain’t Nothin’ But the Blues—that have moved on to Broadway. With an emphasis on multicultural programming, The Rep also produces Kuumba Fest, a celebration of African-American culture, and the Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.544.1000, sdrep.org San diEGO SymPHOny CL9000006341 San Diego Symphony has been enriching local culture for more than a century now. Under the leadership of Music Director Jahja Ling, the orchestra performs both classical and symphonic pops concerts throughout the year. Its winter home is downtown’s beautifully restored Copley Symphony Hall. For the Summer Pops series, the orchestra moves outdoors to the waterfront Embarcadero Marina Park South. 1245 Seventh Ave., downtown, 619.235.0804, sandiegosymphony.com

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