Urban Call — Sponsored by Sally Beauty

Vol. 3, Issue 1

Bridging the beauty industry

Black Beauty: style and culture

Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition is distributed to 100,000 stylists nationally and their patrons in the multicultural beauty care Lafayette Jones industry. It is Publisher also available through the National Beauty Culturists League (NBCL) state and local chapters whose officers receive copies for distribution. Thanks to the continued sponsorship of Sally Beauty Co., we put our best foot forward at multicultural professional hair and beauty shows and conferences like Bronner Brothers in Atlanta, Premiere Beauty Show and other leading events. Our mission, as always, is to be a bridge between cosmetologists and their patrons, and a road for manufacturers and distributors who meet the unique hair and beauty care needs of people of color. Glad you can join us on the path.

URBAN CALL STAFF WRITER

I

t’s a sign of the times. The number of books about multicultural hair and beauty care continues to grow. Most discuss hair care in all its aspects — natural or relaxed, colored or curled, extended, braided or locked. Others address the culture surrounding multicultural hair care.

Stylist Andre Walker, in his book Andre Talks Hair, with a special message from Oprah Winfrey, provides page after page of fabulous photos of women of all ages and skin tones. In The Beauty of Color — The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color, successful actress/model Iman revolutionizes the way women of color can think about beauty and delivers a fresh, new approach to makeup and skin care.

Beauty and cover editor of Essence magazine, Mikki Taylor, shares skin, hair and makeup tips and writes from the vantage of a lifestyle coach in her book, Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beauty. She describes “selfseduction” as “a sense of loving ourselves in the highest order by committing to what honors us, both within and without — not what moves us to be self-centered, but rather what allows us to become the empowered women we are called to be on all levels.”

(CONT.

STYLE AND CULTURE ON PAGE

6)

Inside...

10

Renée Reynolds

Healthy Living — Every Day!

Maya Angelou

Oprah Winfrey

4

Cutting Edge

URBAN CALL 4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225 Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 Tel. (336) 759-7477 FAX: (336) 759-7212 E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com

Premiere Beauty Show

11 Honorable Mel Watt

BLACK BEAUTY:

Explore the divine paths to inner and outer beauty as it relates to hair, skin and spirituality: The Beauty of Color Iman: The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color by Iman; Andre Talks Hair! by Andre Walker; and Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beauty by Mikki Taylor.

Black Caucus

Beauty and Skin Care Experts

6

Beauty Watch

7

Show Time

8

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Urban Call

The multicultural beauty-care source delivered to 100,000 readers.

Page 2

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Sally magazine’s Color Me Beautiful provides useful tips and advice Culturist’s League (NBCL) educator and stylist Dr. Brenda Kynard, If you’re looking for multicultural hair and beauty care prod- who advises that “press and curl” irons, because of their higher ucts, be sure to stop at your heating levels, “should be used nearest Sally Beauty Supply only on virgin hair.” She also store. And while you’re there, says they can be useful for chilpick up an issue of Sally magadren who are “too young for zine, which is distributed in chemical relaxers.” more than 2,100 Sally stores Look for upcoming columns to nationwide. The Color Me Beautiful column by multicultural discuss the wide selection of books that cover multicultural hair and beauty care expert hair and beauty care. Others will Lafayette Jones covers topics tell the story of business pioof interest to men and women neers who helped create products of color and carries useful tips that address the specific hair and and advice. beauty care needs of men and In one column on hot irons, Jones quotes National Beauty women of color.

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Sally Beauty Supply names new president Sally Beauty Co. has named Michael G. Spinozzi as president of Sally Beauty Supply for the United States and Canada. This new position will report to Gary Winterhalter, president of Spinozzi Sally Beauty Co. and Beauty Systems Group.

As president of Sally Beauty Supply, Michael (Mike) Spinozzi will direct the store operations, merchandising/purchasing,

advertising, customer service, customer-relationship marketing, loyalty programs and public relations. A retail veteran of 24 years, Spinozzi will direct the overall strategic direction for the more than 2,100 Sally Beauty stores in the U.S. and Canada.

His wide-ranging experience includes the food, drug, book, music and movie industries, where he has touched every aspect of these businesses, from store operations and merchandising to marketing and distribution.

“We are pleased to welcome Mike to Sally Beauty,” said

Winterhalter, “and I know that his extensive background and expertise in a broad range of areas will prove a great fit for Sally and its continued success.”

Sally Beauty Company Inc. is the world’s largest distributor of professional beauty products to salon professionals and retail customers. The company has more than 3,000 stores in the U.S., Puerto Rico, United Kingdom, Canada, Germany, Mexico and Japan. For more information, visit www.sally beauty.com or call 1-800ASK-SALLY for store-location information.

Vol. 3 Issue 1 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225 ❍ Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 www.segmentedmarketing.com FAX: (336) 759-7212 ❍ PHONE: (336) 759-7477 Designer: Renée Canada Art Direction: 3CCreative Staff Portrait Artist: Leo Rucker Vol. 3, Issue 1

style and culture

I

t’s a sign of the times. The number of books about multicultural hair and beauty care continues to grow. Most discuss hair care in all its aspects — natural or relaxed, colored or curled, extended, braided or locked. Others address the culture surrounding multicultural hair care.

Stylist Andre Walker, in his book Andre Talks Hair, with a special message from Oprah Winfrey, provides page after page of fabulous photos of women of all ages and skin tones. In The Beauty of Color — The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color, successful actress/model Iman revolutionizes the way women of color can think about beauty and delivers a fresh, new approach to makeup and skin care.

Beauty and cover editor of Essence magazine, Mikki Taylor, shares skin, hair and makeup tips and writes from the vantage of a lifestyle coach in her book, Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beauty. She describes “selfseduction” as “a sense of loving ourselves in the highest order by committing to what honors us, both within and without — not what moves us to be self-centered, but rather what allows us to become the empowered women we are called to be on all levels.”

BLACK BEAUTY (CONTINUED ON PAGE 7)

URBAN CALL WRITER

Sally Beauty Co. has established an annual endowment to give 10 scholarships of $1,000 each to National Beauty Culturists League (NBCL) members who meet scholarship criteria. The goal is to help strengthen the network, further excellence in the profession, and provide opportunities for training in product knowledge and technology.

Scholarships will be awarded at the annual NBCL Convention and Trade Show to be held July 21–28, 2006, at the Renaissance in Cleveland, Ohio.

2006 SALLY BEAUTY SUPPLY CO. AND NBCL SCHOLARSHIP RECIPIENTS Ricardo Murphy, Colorado Springs, Colo.

Leroy Charles Jackson, Denver, Colo.

Larry Weekly, Denver, Colo.

LaQuita D. Johnson, Denver, Colo.

9

Honorable Mel Watt

Healthy Living — Every Day!

Maya Angelou

Oprah Winfrey

4

By Gerry Patton

Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition is distributed to 100,000 stylists nationally and their patrons in the multiculLafayette Jones tural beautyPublisher care industry. It is also available through the National Beauty Culturists League (NBCL) state and local chapters whose officers receive copies for distribution.

Thanks to the continued sponsorship of Sally Beauty Co., we put our best foot forward at multicultural professional hair and beauty shows and conferences like Bronner Brothers in Atlanta and other leading events. Our mission, as always, is to be a bridge between cosmetologists and their patrons, and a road for manufacturers and distributors who meet the unique hair and beauty-care needs of people of color. Glad you can join us on the path.

URBAN CALL STAFF WRITER

Inside...

Sally Beauty sponsors NBCL scholarship

Bridging the beauty industry

Black Beauty:

Black Caucus

Explore the divine paths to inner and outer beauty as it relates to hair, skin and spirituality: The Beauty of Color Iman: The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color by Iman; Andre Talks Hair! by Andre Walker; and Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beauty by Mikki Taylor.

URBAN CALL 4265 Brownsboro Road Suite 225 Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425 Tel. (336) 759-7477 FAX: (336) 759-7212 E-mail: urbancall@smsi-net.com

Premiere Beauty Show

10 Renée Reynolds

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Cutting Edge

National Beauty Culturists League Show Time

PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE

PAID

Urban Call

7 8

For our online edition, visit www.smsibeautynetwork.com

The multicultural beauty-care source delivered to 100,000 readers.

Publishers: Lafayette Jones, Sandra Miller Jones Associate Publisher: Joseph Rodney Lawrence

Photo Editor: Suvondra Montgomery Photographers: Michael Cunningham, Washington, D.C. Dorothy Lewis, Goldsboro, N.C. Elijah Lindsay, New York, N.Y. Jason Pitt, Winston-Salem, N.C. Director of Operations: Constance Harris Database Management and Circulation Manager: Tahnya Bowser Editorial Assistants: Bridgette Miller Jones, Lori Lawson

Director of Client Services: Gerry Patton

Beauty Consultant: Jacqueline Cash, Jacqueline First Impressions

Executive Editor: Alan Cronk Editorial Director: Rose Walsh

Warehouse and Shipping: Supervisor: Ric Woods Manager: Jordan Lash

Production Manager: Myra Wright

Financial Services: Roslyn Hickman

Tiffinee Keeton, Oakland, Calif.

Tori Pinkney, Denver, Colo.

Marcia Blake, Aurora, Colo.

Beverly Johnson-Houston, Dallas, Texas Meka La Pele-Futrell, Ahoskie, N.C. Kisha Collier, Torrance, Calif.

ANONYMOUS NBCL SCHOLARSHIP DONOR RECIPIENT Latoya Rogers, Mount Vernon, N.Y.

For information on subscribing to this publication contact Urban Call — Beauty Salon and Barbershop edition at 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 27106-3425. ©2006 Segmented Marketing Services Inc., 4265 Brownsboro Road, Suite 225, Winston-Salem, NC 271063425. Urban Call is published by SMSi as part of a strategic alliance with Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi) and Piedmont Publishing, a Media General company. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without the written permission of SMSi is expressly prohibited. Publishers reserve the right to accept or reject all advertising matter.

SMSi, founded in 1978, is a Winston-Salem, N.C., minority-owned national marketing, promotion and publishing company that specializes in helping major companies and organizations better serve ethnic customers. This publication is distributed to 100,000 beauty salon and barber professionals and their clients in the SMSi Beauty Salon and Barbershop Networks, through National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL) national officers, state presidents and chapter leaders, as well as to attendees of leading ethnic beauty trade shows. SMSi distributes millions of free product samples, publications and consumer offers through its national networks of African-American and Hispanic churches, beauty salons, barbershops, entertainment venues and health-care networks. Urban CallTM and SMSiTM are registered trademarks of Segmented Marketing Services Inc.

Page 4

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

T-Boz lends her voice to Sickle Cell Disease

By Blanche Carter URBAN CALL WRITER

Photo courtesy of Diggit Entertainment

The Forgotten Disease

Singer and dancer Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins stays upbeat while dealing with sickle cell disease. She and her daughter, Chase, enjoy a quiet moment.

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORT

Sickle cell disease, primarily found in people of African and AfricanCaribbean descent, is an inherited disorder that leads to abnormal hemoglobin, the substance that carries oxygen in red blood cells. An abnormal hemoglobin level causes soft and round red blood cells to become hard and pointed. These abnormally shaped red cells restrict the flow of blood to

Pop star Tionne “T-Boz” Watkins knows well the words “pain” and “perseverance.” The 36year-old singer and dancer, who rose to fame with the R&B group TLC, was diagnosed with sickle cell disease at the age of 7. Her illness has landed her in the hospital for days, even weeks at a time, including one four-month stay.

“Sickle cell [pain] is very excruciating pain,” says the recording artist. “It feels like somebody is stabbing you over and over again,” she said in a USA Weekend interview.

There were days when T-Boz couldn’t walk, much less perform. Having a baby is high risk for a sickle cell patient, but through aggressive medical care and healthy living, she gave birth to a

bones and various organs like the kidneys and lungs. Currently there is no cure for sickle cell disease. Problems caused by sickle cell disease include: ❏ Impaired blood circulation ❏ Severe pain episodes ❏ Damage to the body’s tissues and organs ❏ A shortened life span

awareness

daughter, Chase. Throughout her career with TLC — which included singing with Lisa “Left Eye” Lopes until her death in a car accident several years ago, and Rozonda “Chilli” Thomas — T-Boz has tried to stay upbeat and continue with her work. TLC albums have sold more than 27 million copies and nine million singles (Waterfalls, Creep and No Scrubs).

Adults need to be tested “I feel very strongly about the need for people of child-bearing age who might have the sickle cell trait to be tested and counseled,” says T-Boz, who is a spokeswoman for the Sickle Cell Disease Association of American (SCDAA). She has appeared in their 60-minute documentary, Sickle Cell: The Forgotten Disease.

While sickle cell disease affects about 100,000 people in the United States who are predominately AfricanAmerican, more than 2 million may carry the sickle cell trait. Individuals who have the trait have inherited only one gene for sickle cell (sickle cell disease is caused by two sickle cell genes) and are generally healthy. However, if both mother and father carry the trait,

there is a 25 percent chance of having a baby with sickle cell disease with each pregnancy according to the book, A Guide to Sickle Cell Disease, by Dr. Graham Serjeant. Screening for adults is recommended so they can make informed decisions about family planning. Newborns are screened for sickle cell and other disorders within hours of birth in most states.

Maya Angelou Center tackles health issues of African-Americans conference hosted at the center was Cancer Prevention in Underrepresented Minorities: How Do We Make it Work? It Dr. Kristy Woods, a nationally recoghighlighted breast, prostate and lung nized authority on sickle cell disease, cancer prevention programs that have heads the Maya Angelou Research been successful. The center has worked Center on Minority Health at Wake with local Hispanic radio and newspaForest University Health Sciences pers to spread health information from (www1.wfubmc.edu/minorityhealth) in Wake Forest University Baptist Medical Winston-Salem, N.C. The center was Center physicians, staff and other comestablished by the internationally munity health-care professionals to renowned writer Maya Angelou to North Carolina’s growing Hispanic popuaddress the health issues of Africanlation. Angelou is a professor of Americans, Hispanics and other people American studies at Wake Forest of color. It provides education and University in Winston-Salem. Woods awareness about diseases like sickle cell taught at Meharry Medical College in disease as well as other health probNashville, Tenn., and was director of its lems like HIV/AIDS, diabetes, hypersickle cell center before being named tension, heart disease and cancer. One the first leader of the Angelou Center.

By Rose Walsh

URBAN CALL STAFF REPORTER

Woods, Winfrey photos courtesy of Lou Davis/WFUHS Photography Angelou photo courtesy of Random House, Hallelujah! The Welcome Table

Dr. Kristy Woods, left, head of the Maya Angelou Research Center on Minority Health at Wake Forest University Health Sciences, poet and author Maya Angelou, and TV talk-show star Oprah Winfrey raised $127,000 for the center at the St. Peter’s Church fundraiser in Winston-Salem, N.C.

Page 6

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

BLACK BEAUTY:

STYLE AND CULTURE (CONT. FROM COVER)

Natural Hair

Beauty and Skin Care Experts

Books on natural hairstyles that don’t require chemical relaxers are numerous. Nekhena Evans’ Hairlocking: Everything You Need to Know: African, Dread & Nubian Locks covers 10 misconceptions about locks, among them — that you can grow locks fast and that locked hair is not versatile.

“Locked hair can be worn in any style. For examples, braided, twisted, crimped, pinned up, rolled are all possibilities.” She also explains the difference between locks and dreadlocks: “Dreadlocks are organic [hair is left in a natural state and nothing is done to it], and African locks are cultivated.

What they have in common is that both are natural (chemical-free), Africentric (sic), and are usually rooted in a sense of spirituality, consciousness and cultural pride.”

Pamela Ferrell also covers the subject of natural hair in Let’s Talk Hair: Every Black Woman’s Personal Consultation for Healthy Growing Hair. In it she discusses the need for good conditioners. “Hair conditioners are like lotion to the hair. Conditioners were made to do what sebum [oil from the hair follicle in the scalp] does naturally — provide a protective lubricant to the hair to make the scalp supple and the hair pliable. Conditioners with natural oils give luster to the hair shaft, making it appear glossy. A good conditioner should disappear when hands are rubbed together.”

Some beauty books are geared specifically to African-American women, like Sam Fine’s book, Fine Beauty: Beauty Basics and Beyond for African-American Women. He discusses makeup tools including the many varieties of brushes used in applying cosmetics and other tips on using powder, eye shadow, blush, lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, shaping eyebrows and attaching false eyelashes. Fine shares his photo diary, which includes stories of working with his star-studded clientele including Patti LaBelle, Naomi Campbell, Brandy and Vanessa Williams, among others.

If you are among the nearly half of the United States population that share the hallmarks of skin of color, you are likely to have received confusing advice — or no advice at all — about how to care for your skin. Finally, Beautiful Skin of Color: A Comprehensive Guide to Asian, Olive, and Dark Skin unlocks the particular secrets of your skin and provides the answers you've been searching for. Dermatologists Dr. Jeanine Downie and Dr. Fran Cook-Bolden, along with Barbara Nevins Taylor, an awardwinning reporter on skin and hair issues, offer clear, specific advice to help you achieve and maintain a healthy, gorgeous complexion.

Self-Seduction: Your Ultimate Path to Inner and Outer Beauty covers skin, hair, makeup, health and weight-loss tips. (“Watch your portions — in general, a single serving should be about the size of your palm.”) Author Mikki Taylor has been with Essence magazine, which celebrates its 38th anniversary this year, for more than 20 years. It is the oldest and most well-known magazine for African-American women.

Cosmetologists who are looking to pass the state exam may find Toni Love’s book useful — Tips to Passing the Cosmetology Stateboard (sic) Exam. Love self-published the book that carries basic information most state boards require. Love, formerly director of continuing education for Dudley Products and a Sally Beauty Co. platform artist, established Toni Love’s Training Center in Moundville, Ala., in 2002. “It is the only advanced training center for experience with hair at Howard University in Washington, D.C. As a sophomore, she noticed that students at this historically black college were at first “anti-natural”— not liking the look of the afro. But when R&B singers like James Brown sang I’m Black and I’m Proud, and Howard students like fiery civil-rights leader Stokely Carmichael stood on cafeteria tables giving speeches, “attitudes about racial pride were being altered,” says Jones. “By the time I was a senior, the homecoming queen had a natural.” Other women featured in the book include Tonya Lewis Lee, wife of movie maker Spike Lee (Malcolm X and She’s Gotta Have It) and author of Gotham Diaries (Hyperion, 2005), who talks about her natural

cosmetologists in the state,” said Love.

The school specializes in small classes with individualized training. Love is also the author of The World of Wigs, Weaves & Extensions. See her Web site at www. tonilove.com or call (205) 371-8950 for more information.

Another book for cosmetologists is Salon Success (Nolas Publishing, 2005), by stylist and educator Julia Smith. Call (312) 363-8000 for more information.

blondish/reddish hair, and Shelia Bridges, interior decorator and TV show host who speaks about losing her hair — a condition called alopecia.

Queens includes 50 blackand-white photos and personal narratives of women from the U.S., Africa and England. A wide variety of looks are shown, including “fantasy hair”— where creative boundaries are wide. Jennelle Byron illustrates the category with hair made up on the top of her head to look like the Twin Towers of the former World Trade Center in New York City. It is her tribute to a family member who was killed along with 3,000 other Americans on Sept. 11, 2001, when an attack brought both towers crashing down.

STYLE AND CULTURE (CONT. ON PAGE 7)

While many books focus on the how-to of hair, several address the culture surrounding it. Craig Marberry’s book Cuttin’ Up: Wit and Wisdom from Black Barber Shops (Doubleday, 2005) is a collection of 50 interviews distilled from a lifetime of listening to funny anecdotes and stories in black barbershops. One of his interviews is with Oprah’s father, Vernon Winfrey, a barber in Nashville, Tenn. He also interviewed Bernard Mathis, the barber who once tried to convince Don King, the famous boxing promoter, to give his sometimes startling stand-up hair a cut.

Michael Cunningham, famous for his portraits of black women in their church hats (Crowns, Doubleday, 2000, written with Marberry) has produced another treasure trove of pictures in Queens: Portraits of Black Women and Their Fabulous Hair (Doubleday, 2005).

Teaming with Cunningham to write the narrative is George Alexander. Sandra Miller Jones, founder of Segmented Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi), tells her

Cosmetology Training

BLACK BEAUTY:

The Culture in Multicultural

Page 7

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Black women are becoming entrepreneurs, trendsetters “African-American women We have always known represent a powerful consumer that there is something group,” says Pepper Miller, unique about the ability of president of Hunter-Miller. black women to thrive and “These women are fashion achieve. Now the Huntertrendsetters who have Miller Group research firm, increased their spending on which publishes Market Sandra clothing and accessories by 31 Snapshot, a compilation of Miller-Jones percent between 1999 and multicultural statistics, SMSi 2000.”

They spend more than Founding proves it with some numa billion dollars a year on Chair bers. The report notes that hair-care products, says black women are more likely than Datamonitor. Black women are the women of other races to be busimeans “for reaching the total black ness owners. “Over 365,000 busimarket, which has substantial and nesses are owned by black increasing spending power,” says the females,” says the research. The report. It cites the importance of report goes on to say that the “targeted media and grassroots income of all black women is 49 efforts in churches, black organizapercent of the black population’s tions and the community” to reach total income, while white and this consumer.

Hispanic women account for only Contact the Hunter-Miller Group 33 percent of the total income for at (773) 363-7420; www.hunter their races. millergroup.com.

Face of American consumers is changing Multicultural consumers are a grownontraditional venues — churches, ing part of the U.S. economy, and beauty salons and barbershops, and their numbers are increasing every cultural events. Segmented Marketing year. African-Americans, Hispanics Services Inc. (SMSi) reaches 40,000 and Asians number around 30 percent salon professionals in black and of the U.S. population, and by midHispanic beauty and barbershops in century, those numbers are expected its beauty salon and barbershop netJoseph to be at 50 percent. Their buying works, which serve nearly 3.25 milRodney power is also increasing. The Selig Lawrence lion consumers. The organization Center at the University of Georgia SMSi also has an outreach to 8,000 Executive estimates that African-American buyAfrican-American families consisting ing power will reach $965 billion by Vice President of nearly 3 million consumers who 2009. The Hispanic total will reach $992 bil- belong to the church family network. lion, and the Asian-American total will reach $528 billion.

To find out how to join SMSi’s commuMarketers are learning that some of the nity of networks, visit www.segmented best ways to reach this consumer are through marketing.com.

BLACK BEAUTY: BLACK BEAUTY:

History Makers The history of the multicultural hair and beauty-care industry is often considered to begin with Madam C.J. Walker, who in the early 1900s created one of the first successful, widely marketed products to meet the hair-care needs of African-American women. Her story is told in the book, On Her Own Ground — The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker, written by her great-great granddaughter, A’lelia Perry Bundles. Walker became the first female of any race to become a selfmade millionaire in the United States. In the 30s Chicago cosmetics entrepreneur S.B. Fuller had a dream to create many millionaires by sharing the fruits of labor from his door-to-door sales company, Fuller Products. His oldest child, daughter Mary Fuller Casey, tells his story in S.B. Fuller: Pioneer in Black Economic Development. Cornell McBride, a charter member of the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI) founded two companies — M&M Products (which created a product that prevented breakage and made the afro more manageable) and McBride Research Laboratories. His book, A Cut Above: How the Man Who Gave the World the Afro Made $$ Millions!, was published in 2006.

Other black businessmen in Chicago, inspired by Fuller’s example, included George H. Johnson, founder of Johnson Products, which introduced Ultra-Sheen as a

STYLE AND CULTURE (CONT. FROM PAGE 6)

relaxer for professional use.

When the company launched an at-home Ultra-Sheen relaxer kit, it took the industry by storm.

Johnson’s was the first African-American- owned company to be listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Both George Johnson and Cornell McBride were charter members of AHBAI, an association of minority-owned beauty industry manufacturing companies that was founded in 1981.

Joe L. Dudley, Sr., chief executive officer of Dudley Products and an AHBAI member, traces his success to Fuller Products, a company in which he and Eunice Mosely Dudley both worked.

They went on to co-found Dudley Products in the ‘60s. Today, the Dudleys and their three adult children, Joe Dudley Jr.; Ursula Dudley Oglesby and Genea Dudley, are actively involved in running the N.C.-based company. Dudley tells his business story in Walking by Faith: I Am, I Can & I Will.

The late John H. Johnson, who died in August, 2005, is best known as the founder of Ebony and Jet magazines. But he too got into the beauty business with makeup and haircare brands (Duke for men, Raveen for women). In his autobiography, Succeeding Against the Odds, he tells how he founded Fashion Fair Cosmetics so that the models in the Johnson Publishing Co.’s Fashion Fair tour would have appropriate makeup.

Children’s Hair Care Michele N-K Collison gives a lot of great advice in It’s All Good Hair: The Guide to Styling and Grooming Black Children’s Hair. “Our children come in a rainbow of hues and with all different types of hair — curly, kinky, wavy, straight, short, long, relaxed, locked. But all of our children’s hair is beautiful, and we must begin to tell our children so,” says Collison. She discusses braiding, locks, simple twists, flat twists, double-stranded twists with ponytail and other styles. For parents who want to relax their children’s hair, Collison says a commitment must be made. “Relaxers need regular maintenance. Don’t think that once you relax your child’s hair that you’re done. She must get regular touchups to keep her hair looking healthy. ... Hair breakage can result from waiting too long between relaxer retouches.”

By Suvondra Montgomery URBAN CALL WRITER

Shows, dates and locations are subject to change on this 2006–2007 calendar. Call or check the Web site to confirm a date.

American Health & Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI) Proud Lady Show Midyear Conference Aug. 28–30, 2006 New Red Rock Resort Las Vegas, Nev. April 2007 Tinley Park Convention Center Tinley Park, Ill. Contact: Geri Jones, Executive Director (708) 333-8740 E-mail: gjonesahbai@sbcglobal.net Web site: www.proudlady.org

Beauty Expo Trade Show Jan. 22–23, 2007 Riviera Hotel Convention Center Las Vegas, Nev. Contact: Ann Park, Marketing Director (314) 454-1112 E-mail: btexpo@yahoo.com Web site: www.beautyexpousa.com

Beauty Revolution LA Jan. 28–29, 2007 Los Angeles Convention Center Los Angeles, Calif.

Contact: Tom Berger & Associates (602) 569-9039 E-mail: todd@tombergerassociates.com Web site: www.tombergerassociates.com

Bonners International Gold Hair & Trade Show Nov. 10–12, 2006 Long Beach Queen Mary Dome & Hanger Long Beach, Calif.

Contact: Richard Bonner, President (310) 603-0731 E-mail: bonnerhairshow@verizon.net

Bronner Brothers Hair Shows Summer 2006 Aug. 5–8, 2006 Atlanta, Ga. Seminars by the Sea Oct. 28–Nov. 2, 2006 Cruise to Grand Cayman and Ocho Rios, Jamaica Winter 2007 Feb. 17–19, 2007 Atlanta, Ga. Midyear 2007 May 5–7, 2007 Baltimore, Md.

Summer 2007 Aug. 11–13, 2007 Atlanta, Ga. Contact: Janet Wallace, Show Manager (800) 547-7469 E-mail: bbshow@bronnerbros.com Web site: www.bronnerbros.com Carolina Trade Show June 2007 Charlotte, N.C. Contact: Bobby Benet, Show Director (800) 385-5535 E-mail: benetinc@aol.com Web site: www.hairsymposium.com Chicago Midwest Beauty Show March 3–5, 2007 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, Ill. Contact: Paul Dykstra, CEO (312) 321-6809 E-mail: cmbs@isnow.com Web site: www.isnow.com Cosmoprof North America July 16–18, 2006 Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, Nev. Contact: Melissa Coe (800) 557-3356 E-mail: Melissa@probeautyassociation.org Web site: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com Golden Scissors Show July 16, 2006 Navy Pier Chicago, Ill. July 30, 2006 Camelot Center Upper Marlboro, Md. Nov. 5, 2006 Constitution Hall Washington, D.C. Nov. 4, 2007 Golden Scissors Constitution Hall Washington, D.C. Contact: Glynn Jackson, Creator (202) 452-7445 E-mail: glynn@goldenscissorsawards.com Web site: www.goldenscissorsawards.com or www.fashionjackson.com

Hair Wars

Hair Etc. Beauty & Health Expo July 29–31, 2006 Gaillard Municipal Auditorium Charleston, S.C. July 29–30, 2007 Charleston, S.C. Contact: Tia Brewer-Footman, Marketing Director (866) 365-3976 E-mail: tia@myhairetcmag.com Web site: www.myhairetcmagazine.com Hair Wars July 30, 2006 Bert’s Warehouse Theatre Hair Wars Detroit, Mich.

Nov. 2006 Contact: David Humphries, Show Producer (313) 534-8318 E-mail: hairwars@ameritech.net Hispanic Health & Beauty Care/ General Merchandise Aug. 23–25, 20006 Renaissance Houston Hotel Houston, Texas Contact: Melinda Hall (773) 281-5276 Web site: www.ecrm-epps.com International Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Oct. 7–9, 2006 Orlando/OC Convention Center Orlando, Fla. June 2–4, 2007 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, Nev. Sept. 29–Oct. 1, 2007 Orlando/OC Convention Center Orlando, Fla. Contact: Jonnell Gailey (800) 624-3248 E-mail: info@iecsc.com Web site: www.iecsc.com International Beauty Show March 11–13, 2007 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York, N.Y. Contact: Mike Boyce, Show Manager (212) 895-8200 E-mail: mboyce@questex.com Web site: www.ibsnewyork.com

International Hair and Nail Show Sept. 17–18, 2006 Cook Convention Center Memphis, Tenn.

May 20–21, 2007 Meadowlands Expo Center Secaucus, N.J. Sept. 9–10, 2007 Cook Convention Center Memphis, Tenn.

Contact: Rudy Armstrong/ Sylvia Callaway (800) 676-7469 E-mail: sylvia@ihshow.com Web site: www.ihshow.com

International SPA Association Sept. 25–26, 2006 The Hotel Hershey Hershey, Pa. Nov. 6–9, 2006 The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino Las Vegas, Nev. Nov. 12–15, 2007 Gaylord Palms Resort & Convention Center Kissimmee, Fla. Contact: International SPA Association (888) 651-ISPA E-mail: ispa@ispastaff.com Web site: www.experienceispa.com National Beauty Culturists League (NBCL) 87th Annual Convention & Trade Show July 21–28, 2006 Renaissance Cleveland, Ohio 88th Annual Convention & Trade Show B C L July 20–28, 2007 N P Hyatt Fair Lakes Fair Lakes Circle F B Fairfax, Va. 22033 IN K Contact: Dr. Katie B. U P WI T H Catalon, National President (202) 332-2695 E-mail: drlindsay@nbcl.org Web site: www.nbcl.org L

Afro Hair & Beauty Show May 27–28, 2007 Alexandra Palace Way London, England Contact: Verna McKensie, Event Manager 011 44 207-498-1795 E-mail: info@afrohairshow.com Web site: www.afrohairshow.com

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

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Premiere Show Group Aug. 27–28, 2006 Orlando/Orange County Convention Center Orlando, Fla. June 10–11, 2007 Orlando, Fla. Sept. 30–Oct. 1, 2007 Birmingham, Ala. Contact: Lynn Finch, Creative Director (407) 265-3131 Web site: www.premiereshows.com World Natural Hair, Braiding & Weaving Seminar July 16–18, 2006 Amerisuites Hotel Atlanta, Ga. Contact: Taliah Waajid (877) 480-9328 E-mail: asktaliah@naturalhair.org Web site: www.naturalhair.org Pretty Girls Fashion Awards Aug. 13, 2006 Chicago, Ill. Contact: Carol Dunbar, producer/director (773) 752-8563 E-mail: dunbardiva@sbcglobal.net Your Beauty Network Sept. 23–25, 2006 Hyatt Regency Newport Beach Newport Beach, Calif.

(866) 364-4926 Web site: www.ybn.com Contact Joseph Lawrence at Urban Call with news on your show: jrlawremce@smsi-net.com.

URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

Elijah Lindsay Elijah Lindsay is a former professional model and actor turned professional photographer.

Lindsay can be reached at (212) 864-2635, (917) 952-4997 (cell) or by e-mail at info@elindsaysite.com. View his work online at www.elindsaysite.com.

Images courtesy of Elijah Lindsay

Andre Christburg Andre Christburg is publisher of Style Q Hair Magazine, a magazine that showcases the work of stylists across the country. He also publishes The Hot Atlanta Hair Directory. Christburg can be reached at (770) 498-7492 or by e-mail at styleq@hotmail.com.

Images courtesy of Style Q Hair Magazine

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URBAN CALL – Beauty Salon and Barbershop Edition

CUTTING

EDGE It’s been my pleasure to serve the beauty industry for 20 years now. I have had the privilege of working in all aspects of management, including buying, product development, asset management, inventory control, advertising and package design. My team and I have the responsibility to ensure that any product sold at Sally Beauty Supply Co. is top of the line quality — we will not accept anything less than the Renée Reynolds best.

Sally prides itself on having the most extensive selection of products available anywhere — not only for African-American women, but for all women of color. This commitment to the customer guarantees that she will find the widest selection of the highest quality products in all 2,200 Sally Beauty Supply stores in the United States.

We have been actively involved in crafting the new line, Silk Elements. In addition to the extensive testing that is done for a product launch, we try out the new product on ourselves, so that we have personally tested anything new that will be offered to the public. The manufacturer has been very responsive to our requests for changes, modifications and products that we would like to see added to the line. We are pleased to report that we are having a hard time keeping the product on the shelves — it has been flying out the doors. Silk Elements is a hit!

We are working on another line of products under the Silk Elements brand name called “Revive and Restore.” This is a line of organic botanical treatments and conditioners, designed for the customer who desires to maintain or restore healthy hair with natural ingredients.

As the largest purveyor of professional beauty supplies in the world, Sally Beauty has more than 2,100 stores that offer the salon professional and the consumer, between salon visits, more than 5,000 salon-quality products for hair, nail and skin care. For more information, visit our Web site at www.sallybeauty.com or call 800-ASK-SALLY for the store nearest you.

Renée Reynolds in the director of merchandising for ethnic and multicultural products for Sally Beauty Co.

There is strength in our unity

By Dr. Katie B. Catalon

most prestigious trade organizations for cosmetologists and allied industries in the world.

Black beauty professionals are a large There are also opportunities for higher and important business segment, according to the United States Census Department education. The National Institute of and independent industry research conCosmetology is the only accredited instiducted among beauty salon and barbershop tution nationally that offers NBCL memowners and operators by Segmented bers higher degree programs (B.A., M.A. Marketing Services Inc. (SMSi). There are and Ph.D.) in cosmetology. Members also about 120,000–125,000 black beauty proearn degree credits by attending educafessionals in the country who serve a growtional workshops at state, regional and ing customer base of 37.5 million black national conventions held every year. At clients. What this means for our cosmetolNBCL’s annual conventions and trade ogy business is more customers — more shows, members gather to learn about the women and men of color seeking profesnewest trends, techniques and products sional services to meet their unique needs available to professionals in our industry. in hair and beauty care.

Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles NBCL members get a 5 percent discount Beauty and barber professionals are and Care Guide features “Linking at Sally Beauty Supply.

Pros” in every issue. always looking for ways to advance their Join NBCL today. Small-business membusinesses and careers. One of the best ways to increase your trade knowledge and network of pro- bership is $200. Corporate membership is $500. Call us at (202) 332-2695 or visit www.nbcl.org. fessional friends is to join the National Beauty Culturists’ League (NBCL). As our motto states, there is “Strength in Dr. Katie B. Catalon is president of the National Beauty Unity.” Founded in 1919, NBCL is an association of 8,000 Culturists’ League (NBCL), headquartered in Washington, cosmetologists, estheticians, barbers and nail technicians with members in 42 states. It is one of the oldest and D.C. Its next convention will be July 22–29 in Cleveland.

SPECIAL TO URBAN CALL

Founded in 1981 to represent the ethnic health and beauty care industry, the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI), was created for black-owned hair companies.

Pictured (standing, left to right) are founder Lafayette Jones, who was then president of Smith, Jones & Associates, an association management firm and first AHBAI executive director (1981–1986); Frank Davies, World of Curls; Comer Cottrell, ProLine Corp.; the late Nathaniel H. Bronner Sr. of Bronner Brothers and the late Marcus Griffith of Hairlox; Edward Gardner, Soft Sheen; Cornell McBride Sr., McBride Research Laboratories: and Ken Wibecan, Smith, Jones & Associates. Seated from left to right are George Johnson, Johnson Products — the first chairman of AHBAI; Henry

AHBAI FORMED FOR HAIRCARE MANUFACTURERS Bundles, Madame C.J. Walker Co.; James Cottrell, Pro-Line Corp.; the late Freddie Luster, Luster Products; and Dr. Austin Curtis, Curtis Laboratories. Not pictured is charter member Melvin Calloway, 6 N 1

Products. In 1982, the Proud Lady symbol was developed and affixed to products whose companies work to support the black community. Geri Jones is the current executive director, (708) 333-8740, www.ahbai.org The documentary film, My Nappy ROOTS: A Journey Through Our Hairtage, traces the history and culture of African-American hair from ancient Africa to the present. Regina Kimbell, president of Virgin MOON productions is the film’s executive producer who called on actress Kim Fields, icon Lafayette Jones, the late entrepreneur Art Dyson and others to provide historical insights.