2026
Go Climb a Mountain A Few of Our Favorite Hikes in WNC
Qualla Arts & Crafts Mutual Hillman Brewing
John C. Campbell
Fishing in the Smokies
Folk School Going Strong at 50
MUSIC | MOUNTAIN BIKING | WATERFALLS
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If you’ve picked up this publication, then, by all accounts, you’re in search of outdoor adventure and countless memorable experiences in our backyard paradise that is Western North Carolina. As folks proud of our region, we also take a lot of pride in making those who visit feel as welcomed and embraced as possible. Life is about trying new things and meeting new people, and what better place to do so than with Mother Nature’s masterpiece of the Great Smoky and Blue Ridge mountain ranges as the backdrop? Take to the trail for a day hike or mountain bike ride, or to the river for some vigorous kayaking or tranquil fly fishing, or take to Main Street for an afternoon of shopping, perhaps a farm-to-table dinner or live bluegrass performance. The beauty of Western North Carolina resides in the mere notion that every day is a blank canvas by which we have all the colors of possibility at our disposal to paint with. Between our array of weekend festivals and seasonal events, the hardest part is simply figuring out what to do. It’s all here, and more. I’ve always believed the litmus test of the strength of a place is how well its community aims at bringing one and all together. Give me a town where the people really care and are vested in the community and its potential, and I’ll give you a location that is pulsating with activity, with love and passion, intellectuality and enthusiasm for the unknowns of tomorrow — bring it on, y’all. — Garret K. Woodward, Arts & Entertainment Editor
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INSIDE: Food+Drink
Solitude is gratitude: Snowbird Mountain Lodge........ 8 Food, family, friendship: Ristorante Paoletti................. 12 Appalachian ales: Hillman Beer......................................14
Art+Culture
Taking the wheel: Cold Mountain Art Collective.......18 Preserving tradition, perpetuating culture: Qualla Arts & Crafts Mutual...........................................20 The living word: John C. Campbell Folk School....... 22 Coming together: Haywood County Fair..................... 26 Sharing the craft: Jo Ridge Kelley Fine Art.................30 MU SEU MS. .......................................................... ..... 2 8 TH EATRES & PLAY H OU SES . . ..................................... 2 9
Outdoors+Recreation
The art of adventure: Outdoor 76..................................38 Ankle deep, all in: Matt Center’s journey fly fishing.....42 Coming down the mountain: Assault on Black Rock trail race.....................................56 H IKING ..................................................................... 4 0 REELIN’ IN APPALACH IA ..................................... ..... 4 4 TH E GREAT SMOKIES . .............................................. 4 8 TH E BLU E RID GE PARKWAY. .................................... 5 0 RIV ERS & WATERFALLS . ...................................... ..... 5 2 MOU NTAIN BIKING .................................................. 5 4 On the Cover: A stunning sunset from Kuwohi Mountain (formerly known as Clingmans Dome). Sara Leek photo | VisitNC.com
Editor/Publisher:
Writing/Photography:
Scott McLeod. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . info@smokymountainnews.com Garret K. Woodward. . . . garret@smokymountainnews.com Provided photos: VisitNC.com, JCTDA & Swain Co. TDA
Advertising Director:
Greg Boothroyd. . . . . . . . . . . greg@smokymountainnews.com
Composition & Design:
Micah McClure. . . . . . . . . . . micah@smokymountainnews.com Jack Snyder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . jack.s@smokymountainnews.com
Advertising:
Amanda Bradley. . . . amanda.b@smokymountainnews.com Maddie Woodard.. . . . maddie.w@smokymountainnews.com
Bookkeeping:
Jamie Cogdill. . . . . . . . . smnbooks@smokymountainnews.com
If you’d like bulk copies of the WNC Travel Guide to distribute at your business, email your request to smnbooks@smokymountainnews.com or call 828.452.4251. Contents ©2026/2027 The Smoky Mountain News. All rights reserved.
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2026
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Eats+Drinks Snowbird Mountain Lodge Solitude is gratitude
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here’s a certain feeling you get when you cross over the Graham County, North Carolina, line. For most “outsiders,” whether it be nearby East Tennessee or origin points from any incoming direction, it’s a sense of genuine curiosity and wonder, where you don’t know what to expect around the next curve. And that’s half the fun, you dig? The same can be said for folks who even live in greater Western North Carolina. If you call nearby Swain, Macon, Jackson or Haywood counties home, Graham can seem like the edge of the earth if you keep driving far enough west. And yet, that’s the true beauty to what lies in these parts — pure solitude. It’s the remote nature found in this far-off corner of WNC that holds such a specific hold on one’s heart and soul, either consciously or subconsciously. The awe-inspiring tranquility and happenstance camaraderie
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found here is rare and hard to grasp, especially in a 21st century world of digital technology, white noise and nonstop distraction. And I will always seek it out. To be blunt, it can be an adjustment (a much-needed shift) to sit with yourself and just be “you” when face-to-face with such ancient beauty in these mountains, this spiritual realm where time doesn’t really exist. But, you do, and so does the moment that’s unfolding in real time while you’re here, and present for whatever adventure may appear. So, why not engage and see where the day takes you, eh? For someone like myself, who has wandered (and driven) seemingly every corner of Southern Appalachia, when I was approached to do a story about the Snowbird Mountain Lodge (just outside of Robbinsville), I didn’t know what to expect. What folks will I cross paths with? What will I stumble across in the pro-
cess? Where to from this starting point? Cruising along N.C. 143, the last of the summer sunshine pierced through the tree canopy hovering over the s-curve mountain road. Pulling up to the Snowbird, I was immediately greeted with stunning panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Wandering over to the side porch of the picturesque lodge (built in 1941), I marvel at the seemingly endless mountains, the ridges undulating like waves on the open ocean. And where the steak, crab cake, pork chop or trout (coupled with a fine Oregon pinot noir or California chardonnay) at dinner in the lodge justifies your intent as an adult who enjoys the finer things in life, it’s the sounds of crickets outside your window in the midnight hour that reminds you just what it means to never lose the childlike wonder of exploration and discovery, especially in the presence of Mother Nature.
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Which is why places like the Snowbird remain sacred and should be cradled as so by the general public and the curious alike. Simply put, you can’t recreate what this place is just overnight. It takes decades of humanity inhabiting it, all atop countless you-had-tobe-there moments made in pure joy that form such a unique, cherished property. It’s the smell of wormy chestnut in the perfectly-aged décor of the lodge or wandering down to nearby Lake Santeetlah to canoe or go for a swim. “There are no televisions here,” the front desk host stated with a proud grin upon my arrival. “I tell people who come here, ‘Channel One is the mountains. Channel Two are the butterfly bushes. Channel Three is the lake. Channel Four is the fireplace.’” The view from the patio at Snowbird Mountain Lodge.
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To that point, it’s also the absolute “silence” of the property that haunts me, happily. Truth be told, I can’t remember the last time I found myself in such a peaceful slumber as I did in Room #17. No construction noises like I hear every morning near my apartment along Russ Avenue in downtown Waynesville. No garbage trucks. No mail trucks. No incessant noise of a whirlwind modern society constantly in motion. That tranquility at Snowbird is shockingly refreshing. But, more so, it made me realize just how much I actually missed normalcy of sleep, and of self. That, and the notion of just standing still, and listening to nothing, merely absorbing the beauty of quiet. It conjured a recent post on social media I came across from a friend, which stated: “We didn’t know how quiet the world used to be — until the noise never stopped.” Honestly? I felt like a kid again here, just like I used to at summer camp in Vermont or spending time at my grandparents’ cabin
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During summer and fall in the Blue Ridge Mountains shake off winter, Jackson County, NC comes alive with sunny afternoons and cool mountain evenings that practically beg to be enjoyed outside. It’s the perfect time to pull up a patio chair, sip something refreshing and savor the region’s vibrant culinary scene with a side of fresh mountain air. • Dine with a View: Tucked within a quiet mountain valley, Canyon Kitchen offers one of the most scenic dining settings in the region. Guests can enjoy refined farm-totable cuisine in an open-air barn overlooking dramatic cliffs and lush gardens, making every meal feel like a special occasion. • Settle in on a Charming Porch: A longtime local favorite, Cornucopia Restaurant is beloved for its welcoming porch surrounded by greenery. It’s an ideal place to linger over lunch or dinner while enjoying classic American dishes and the relaxed pace of mountain life. • Enjoy an Elegant Garden Setting: At The Orchard, outdoor tables overlook beautifully landscaped grounds and mountain scenery. The menu leans toward elevated Southern cuisine, creating a memorable spot for a leisurely spring dinner or celebratory brunch. • Grab a Patio Table Downtown: In the heart of Sylva, Lulu’s on Main offers lively sidewalk dining with views of the town’s historic courthouse perched above Main Street. Its eclectic menu and relaxed atmosphere make it a great stop after a day exploring nearby trails and waterfalls. • Pair Craft Brews with Mountain Air: For a more casual outdoor hangout, Whiteside Brewing Co. features a spacious lawn and open-air seating where visitors can sip local craft beer, enjoy laid-back bites and often catch live music on spring evenings. • Keep it Casual with Pizza and a Patio: After a day of hiking or sightseeing, visitors can unwind at Slab Town Pizza. The cozy outdoor patio, complete with a fireplace, makes it a favorite gathering spot for sharing hand-tossed pizzas and house-made desserts. For those planning a spring getaway, many of these spots also offer the perfect setting for a relaxed Easter brunch with family and friends. Think sunshine, mountain views and seasonal flavors fresh from the region’s farms.
WANT TO GO? A legendary spot for rest and relaxation, the Snowbird Mountain Lodge is located just outside of Robbinsville. An all-inclusive mountain retreat, guests are served a full breakfast and four-course dinner onsite, with a picnic-style lunch also provided.
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on Lake Champlain in the shadow of the Adirondack Mountains. Those slumbers remain tucked away for safe keeping in my memory. And I thought that kind of sincere melting into the bedsheets after a long, bountiful day would remain elusive nowadays — the sounds of cicadas and a lone owl lulling you to sleep. But, there I was at Snowbird. And then there’s the “pick your own adventure” book that is Graham County. By late morning, it’s hiking underneath the massive tulip poplar trees hiding mightily in the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Or the slight chill of an impending fall overtaking Huckleberry Bald, where I trotted up the old logging road and disappeared into the woods, finally alone and at peace with whatever it is ricocheting in my restless mind. It’s meandering along the snug two-lane Cherohala Skyway and finding an empty picnic table at a scenic overlook, soon unpacking the scrumptious lunch packed for me by the Snowbird. Eat the hearty sandwich with gusto and gratitude, wash it down with the small bottle of wine the staff placed in my backpack for safe keeping. By late afternoon, I return to the Snowbird for another dinner in the glow of the fireplace in the cozy bar or adjacent dining room. Following the four-course meal, I end the evening at the Summer House, the screened-in open air lounge with a gas fireplace. The flames illuminate the space. I crack open one of my all-time favorite books, a dog-eared copy of Jack Kerouac’s seminal 1958 novel, “The Dharma Bums.” Reading the pages in my own time, and at my own pace — the unfolding scene of a waning moon over the darkened mountain silhouettes seen in the distance — the words I come across perfectly sum up my experience here, and thereafter: “The closer you get to real matter, rock air fire and wood, boy, the more spiritual the world is.”
Beyond numerous amenities around the property (Fireside Bar, tennis court, yoga, etc.), Snowbird offers complimentary guest access to nearby Lake Santeetlah, with canoes, kayaks and paddleboards available for use. To note, dinner service is available to the public via reservation. There’s also an array of specialized events throughout the year. For more information and/or to make a reservation, visit snowbirdlodge.com or call 828.479.3433.
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Eats+Drinks Food, family, friendship Ristorante Paoletti
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ocated in the heart of downtown Highlands, Ristorante Paoletti is a decades-old beacon of culinary delights, compassion and camaraderie — all of which are connected by the family ties that bind.
Maria and Luigi, came to the United States via Ellis Island in New York City from the Marche region of Italy. “They came [to America] as poor Italian immigrants. When they got here, they had relatively nothing,” Cabrera noted. “So,
Highlands. “Our family fell in love with the mountains,” Cabrera said. “The South and southern culture is so similar to Italian and Italian American culture. It’s a very warm, family-centered culture where you often gather
The dining room at Ristorante Paoletti in Highlands.
“It’s just part of our culture as Italian Americans,” said Gina Paoletti Cabrera, director of operations. “When you go to an Italian house, what they know to do is feed you. It’s such a big part of our culture, how we communicate, and the manner in which we prepare food.” Although Ristorante Paoletti opened its doors atop The Plateau in 1984, the family’s history in the culinary realm extends back even further to 1953. To preface, in 1930, Arturo & Rita Paoletti and their children,
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when you juxtapose that to fine dining, there’s an immense sense of pride, because we were able to make a living for our family off of this restaurant.” After a stint in New Jersey, the family then relocated to Miami, Florida, in the early 1950s, only to open the original Paoletti’s there in 1953. The family business grew and shifted, literally and figuratively, where the Miami location moved to Coral Gables in 1960, then to Delray Beach in 1976, with Luigi and his wife, Gina, now at the helm of the storied restaurant. But, by the late 1970s, Luigi had unexpectedly passed away, leaving his wife, Gina, widowed and a single mother of six kids. In this moment of unknowns, Gina decided to push ahead with a stoic focus and steadfast vision to keep Paoletti’s alive, ultimately bringing the restaurant and its legacy to
around food. So, we felt very at home here in Highlands.” With its 40th anniversary recently occurring, the Ristorante Paoletti is under the meticulous, loving care of owner Arthur Paoletti (Rita’s grandson) and Cabrera (great-granddaughter). Cabrera’s mother, Gina Paoletti Ametrano, is also a core fixture and personality at the establishment, with her official title “Maître de Maison” (the main host). As well, Cabrera’s husband, Zac Vidic, is the general manager and director of human resources. “With some family-run businesses, there can be a resentment of, ‘I was born into this, I didn’t really want to do this,’” Cabrera said. “But, for us, we’ve only had family members that actually want to work at the restaurant, which is why I think we’re successful at keeping it in the family.”
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Perusing the menu, the intricacies of the dishes served is matched by high-quality in not only ingredients, but also presentation and appearance — from “Polpetta di Ricotta” (wagyu beef and ricotta meatballs) to “Melanzane alla Parmigiana” (roasted eggplant), “Costolette di Vitello alla Marsala” (bone-in veal chop) to “Spiced Cervena Elk Rib Chop.” “[For our vacations], we spent almost the entirety of it in Italy because we still have family there,” Cabrera said. “When we travel there, we take dishes we enjoy and bring them back. And we buy a lot of products from Italy that we directly import.” And ideally complementing the meals is a vast wine menu, which includes a keen focus on Italian wines. With over 1,000 labels available and around 7,000 bottles onsite at any given time, the vino flows free-
ly and joyously at Ristorante Paoletti. “Arthur is incredibly passionate about Italian wine — it’s nuanced, it’s elegant,” Cabrera said. “And we really enjoy educating our guests about wine and what dish to pair what bottle with — it’s a great way to expand people’s horizons.” On any given night, those who wander into Ristorante Paoletti, either on purpose or by happenstance, find themselves immediately immersed in the hospitality and sincerity that lies at the heart of the beloved space. And it’s that sense of authenticity and genuine care that remains a testament to a business now entering its fifth decade as one of the finest culinary spots in the region. “We’re filled with pride and moreover gratitude, because, while this is a family business, we could not have ever made it successful for 40 years in Highlands with just our family members,” Cabrera said. “Whether it’s been our longtime team members or our guests who have been dining with us for generations, we owe our successes as much to them as our family itself — we’re just so blessed.”
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Eats+Drinks Appalachian ales Hillman Beer
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n the depths of Biltmore Village in Asheville, Hillman Beer on Sweeten Creek Road has become a haven for craft ales lovers, outdoor enthusiasts, and simply those who stumble upon the spot happily by happenstance. “It’s instantly rewarding [seeing everyone in the taproom],” said Johanna Quinn, general manager at Hillman. “It just makes work more fun when we’re that busy. And sometimes you can get emotional, especially during Oktoberfest, knowing that so many people had a great time.” A family-owned brewery, Hillman Beer opened in Asheville in April 2017. With the Hillman brothers (Brad and Greig) launching the business, it has grown and shifted with the moving target that is the craft beer industry, all atop the continual evolution of Asheville itself. In July 2020, Hillman Beer opened its second location just down the road in Old Fort. “[Before the brewery], Greig was living here in Asheville and Brad was in New York City,” Quinn said. “Brad was bartending and had a tiny home brew set up in his tiny apartment in Brooklyn. He started bringing [beer] to family gatherings and [Greig] said, ‘[We] should open a brewery in Asheville. I’m telling you, your beer is going to sell well.’” So, Brad decided to relocate to Asheville and take the leap at brewing beer as a career. The process started small, with the brothers testing out recipes (many of which with a German
focus in terms of flavor and style) in a garage and giving away samples to friends and family to get feedback. The results were very positive, onward to a brick-and-mortar facility. “Greig lived in Germany for a while serving with the military,” Quinn said. “And Brad would come [visit and] taste beer over there, [which] is how we have such a German influence. I grew up in Germany, and I think our beer is pretty spot-on for the German styles.”
With a thick thread of German beer running through Hillman, there are “of course IPAs for the crowd favorites and the American styles.” The variety of ales presented is ideally complemented by the bier garden format of the property, something that parlays itself into an array of culinary options. “It’s upscale pub food with a more comforted, elevated touch,” Quinn said. “And we strive to make almost everything in-house. We don’t buy pre-padded burgers or anything like that. We mix them, season them, everything
like that. We don’t just ‘buy it,’ we add some sort of personal touch to it.” According to Quinn, Hillman “definitely [focuses] on the guest experience.” “We don’t take ourselves too seriously, but we’re serious about what we do,” Quinn said. “We do have a passion for it, but we like to have fun with it, as well.” In terms of the robust and ever-evolving Asheville and WNC craft beer scene, Quinn views the current, vast landscape as not only filled with incredibly talented brewers and delicious, award-winning products, it also has become a pillar of the culture in this region in just the few decades of its existence. “Everybody’s getting more established,” Quinn noted. “And I think that Asheville will still keep getting the recognition for it just because of that. We all kind of push and challenge each other, and there’s a great culture across the board.” When asked about what she loves about Asheville and greater Western North Carolina, Quinn can’t help but talk at-length about what makes these mountains and its inhabitants so unique, special, and cherished. “I do feel like we kind of live in a bubble, where sometimes I go visit other cities and go, ‘Oh, this isn’t nearly as cool as Asheville,’” Quinn chuckled. “It’s just the culture and the people around here. And that’s why I’m going to keep calling it home for a very long time.”
THE BIG LIST | WNC CRAFT BEVERAGES ASHEVILLE • 7 Clans • 12 Bones • All Sevens Brewing • Archetype Brewing • Asheville Brewing • Burial Beer Co. • Catawba Brewing • Cellarest Beer Project
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• Diatribe Brewing • DSSOLVR • Fahrenheit Pizza & Brewhouse • French Broad Brewing • Ginger’s Revenge • Green Man Brewery • Hi-Wire Brewing • Highland Brewing • Hillman Beer
• New Belgium Brewing • New Origin Brewing • One World Brewing • Outsider Brewing • Oyster House Brewing • River Arts District Brewing • Rye Knot Brewery • Salt Face Mule Brewing • Sweeten Creek Brewing
• Terra Nova Brewing • Thirsty Monk Brewery • TRVE Brewing • Twin Leaf Brewery • Wedge Brewing • White Labs Kitchen & Tap • Wicked Weed Brewing • Wicked Weed Funkatorium CONTINUED ON 17
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CRAFT BEER With around 75 independent establishments in Western North Carolina, the craft beer industry is booming in these parts. Now known a “Beer City,” Asheville has become the epicenter for a beverage movement unseen in not only the industry, but also the nation as a whole. It all started for Asheville in 1994 when Oscar Wong started Highland Brewing — the city’s first legal brewery since Prohibition — and tapped into the region’s craft beer potential. Fast forward 20 years to 2014, and craft beer pioneer and industry leader Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. (Chico, California) opened its $200 million, 217-acre East Coast production facility in Mills River, right outside Asheville. “The community around Asheville attracts such an artistic and eclectic mix of people, a very similar mix of people like Chico,” said Ken Grossman, founder/ owner of Sierra Nevada. “The outdoors is something I try to do on a regular basis — get outside and hike. We’re near mountains, streams, and places to recreate in Chico, and Asheville is just like that.” An embracing, all-are-welcome attitude is perhaps one of the reasons Asheville’s brew scene has exploded. Competing brewers exhibit camaraderie toward each other, with seasoned big-hitters lending help to upstart companies. Alongside Sierra Nevada Brewing Co, industry giants New Belgium Brewing (Fort Collins, Colorado) and Oskar Blues Brewery both opened East Coast headquarters in Western North Carolina. In 2012, Oskar Blues opened an enormous nine-acre $10 million east coast facility in Brevard and New Belgium fired up its $140 million facility in the River Arts District of Asheville, a property that has become a bea-
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con of economic and cultural significance for the city. New Belgium and Oskar Blues have since been bought out by larger beverage companies, as was local start-up brewer Wicked Weed a couple of years ago. Those buyouts are evidence of the ever-growing, somewhat topsy-turvy nature of the craft beer scene as these newer, unique brews continue to grab a larger share of the national and international beverage market. In the depths of Asheville, tucked away down Shady Oak Drive in Biltmore Village is Forestry Camp by Burial Beer Co. — a multifaceted property combining craft ales, culinary delights, live music, and fellowship.
“Of our four core values, two speak the most to me — community and inclusivity,” said Phil Cassella, head of marketing for Burial Beer Co. “With every decision we make, we try to keep [that] front of mind. And I think that resonates with folks — anyone who visits our taprooms can find something for them that is of a high quality.” Since it first arrived on the scene with its flagship location in the South Slope neighborhood of Asheville in 2013, Burial Beer Co. has become a pillar of the craft beer movement in the city and greater Southern Appalachia. With a seemingly never-ending selection of intricately curated ales, the brewery has risen into the upper echelon of the national craft beer landscape. “[Twelve years] is a testament to our team’s creativity and mindset of continual inno-
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vation,” Cassella said. “And we’ve changed our portfolio quite a bit over the years, not only with the beers we make, but through the variety of experiences we offer at our taprooms.” Amid a constant evolution of self, Burial launched its Forestry Camp location in 2019. Formerly operated by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) to house workers constructing the nearby Blue Ridge Parkway, the historic property was transformed into a place of respite — all with an extensive taproom, farm-to-table restaurant, and an expansive space to frolic and roam. “It’s sort of a campus situation that [also] houses our main production brewery,” Cassella said. “The food [at Forestry Camp] is definitely elevated and locally sourced, but it’s priced approachably. It’s a great place for families to hang out [with] the outdoor beer gardens and plenty of places for the kids to run around.” Haywood County has become a brewing scene in its own right. Boojum Brewing and Frog Level Brewing in Waynesville and BearWaters Brewing in Maggie Valley are all serving up a wide array of selections that perfectly compliment the innumerable varieties brewed in Asheville. Co-owner/manager of Boojum Brewing, Kelsie Baker and her family have quickly established themselves as one of the “must try” craft beer destinations in Western North Carolina. Amid a highly competitive industry — locally, regionally, and nationally — where your reputation resides in every beverage poured, Boojum has risen to the upper echelon of flavor, style, and selection. Between their off-site brewery and downtown taproom/restaurant, the business is a social and economic anchor within the community. “From day one, we’ve always said that we want to keep it fresh and exciting, to never cut corners,” Baker said. “We’re really passionate about what we do — always experimenting, reading, learning new techniques and ideas. We use high quality, difficult to get hops,
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yeasts and flavorings, and these things are expensive and generally more difficult to work with, but the result is a much better product.” Sitting at a table in the depths of Homeplace Brewing Co. in downtown Burnsville, owner John Silver scans the vast taproom and elaborate brewing equipment housed in the historic structure, formerly a lumber company. “It’s about the storytelling we do through our different craft beers, and also being able to preserve the
“For me, it’s about the process of creating unique products, having almost this chef mentality and taking pride in your product. The challenge, and the interest, for me now is figuring out creative ways to tell our story.”
— John Silver
history of this town and this region,” Silver said. The Silver family has called Western North Carolina home since the 1700s. It’s a source of deep pride for John, especially as things have come full-circle in his personal life and professional pursuits with opening Homeplace in his hometown in 2017. “For me, it’s about the process of creating unique products, having almost this chef mentality and taking pride in your product,” Silver said. “The challenge, and the interest, for me now is figuring out creative ways to tell our story.” And even though Silver was born and raised in Homeplace Brewing Co. (Burnsville) Burnsville, and even with being able to travel and wander the country, he still chooses to call his hometown, well, “home,” seeing as it remains a place of comfort and security. “My wife and I wanted to raise our kids in a small-town environment, and Burnsville was that place for our family,” Silver said. “And this business and our brand is to pay homage to the generations of people that came before us.”
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THE BIG LIST WNC CRAFT BEVERAGES ELSEWHERE • 7 Clans/Frog Level (Waynesville) • Angry Elk Brewing (Whittier) • Appalachian Grail Brewing (Hayesville) • Balsam Falls Brewing (Sylva) • BearWaters Brewing (Maggie Valley) • Big Pillow Brewing (Hot Springs) • Black Mountain Brewing (Black Mountain) • Boodas Brewing (Hendersonville) • Boojum Brewing (Waynesville) • Brevard Brewing (Brevard) • Buck Bald Brewing (Murphy) • Burning Blush (Mills River) • Currahee Brewing (Franklin) • Dry Falls Brewing (Hendersonville) • Ecusta Brewing (Pisgah Forest) • Eluvium Brewing (Weaverville) • Fonta Flora Brewery (Morganton) • Frog Level Brewing (Waynesville) • Guidon Brewing (Hendersonville) • Hillman Beer (Old Fort) • Homeplace Beer Co. (Burnsville) • Hoppy Trout Brewing (Andrews) • Innovation Brewing (Sylva/Dillsboro/Cullowhee) • Iron Key Brewing (Columbus) • Laughing Dogs Brewing (Hayesville) • Lazy Hiker Brewing (Franklin/Sylva) • Leveller Brewing (Weaverville) • Lookout Brewing (Black Mountain) • Mad Co. Brew House (Marshall) • Mars Theatre Brewing (Mars Hill) • Mica Town Brewing (Marion) • Mills River Brewery (Mills River) • Mountain Layers Brewing (Bryson City) • Native Brews (Cherokee) • Noblebrau Brewing (Brevard) • Nocturnal Brewing (Hayesville) • Oskar Blues Brewing (Brevard) • Pisgah Brewing (Black Mountain) • Riverside Rhapsody Beer Co. (Woodfin) • Oklawaha Brewing (Hendersonville) • Salt Face Mule Brewing (Woodfin) • Satulah Mountain Brewing (Highlands) • Sidetracked Brewery (Morganton) • Sideways Farm & Brewery (Etowah) • Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. (Mills River) • Snowbird Mountains Brewery (Andrews) • Southern Appalachian Brewery (Hendersonville)
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• Testament Brewery (Murphy) • Trailside Brewing (Hendersonville) • Turgua Brewing (Fairview) • UpCountry Brewing (Brevard) • Valley River Brewing (Murphy) • Whaley Farm Brewery (Old Fort) • Whistle Hop Brewing (Fairview) • Whiteside Brewing (Cashiers) • Zebulon Artisan Ales (Weaverville) • Zillicoah Beer Co. (Woodfin)
CIDERIES • Appalachian Ridge Artisan Cidery (Hendersonville) • Balsam Falls Brewing (Sylva) • Barn Door Ciderworks (Fletcher) • Black Mountain Ciderworks + Meadery (Black Mountain) • Bold Rock Cider (Mills River) • Fae Nectar (Lake Lure) • Flat Rock Ciderworks (Hendersonville) • Noble Cider (Asheville) • Side Trip Cider (Asheville) • TreeRock Social Cider & Mead Bar (Asheville) • Urban Orchard Cider (Asheville) • Wehrloom Meadery (Asheville)
WINERIES • Addison Farms Vineyard (Leicester) • B&C Winery (Maggie Valley) • Burntshirt Vineyards (Hendersonville) • Eagle Fork Vineyards (Hayesville) • FernCrest Winery (Andrews) • Marked Tree Vineyard (Flat Rock) • Deep Creek Winery (Bryson City) • Mountain Brook Vineyards (Tryon) • Overmountain Vineyards (Tryon) • Parker-Binns Vineyard (Mill Spring) • Pleb Urban Winery (Asheville) • Point Lookout Vineyards (Hendersonville) • Saint Pail Mountain Vineyards (Hendersonville) • Sawyer Springs Vineyard & Winery (Hendersonville) • Silver Fork Winery (Morganton) • South Creek Winery (Nebo) • Souther Williams Vineyard (Fletcher) • Stone Ashe Vineyards (Hendersonville)
Stonebridge RV Resort
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Arts+Culture Taking the wheel Cold Mountain Art Collective
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n a recent afternoon, dark storm clouds overtook downtown Canton. Sitting on a couch in the Cold Mountain Art Collective on Adams Street, Hannah Burnisky gazes out at the raindrops sliding down the large front windows of the business. “I love rainy days,” Burnisky noted. “I’m one of those moody weather people. It doesn’t really trigger me, [at least] until they start calling for flood advisories.” Owner of CMAC, Burnisky is an acclaimed potter and instructor at the studio/gallery. With over 50 artisan members as part of the CMAC, the small one-story 102-year-old building has become a beacon for creativity and community within the tightly knit mountain town. In September 2024, the CMAC was overtaken by devastating floodwaters due to Hurricane Helene. When the nearby Pigeon River spilled over its banks, over seven-anda-half feet of water quickly enveloped the structure. “It was Saturday around 1 p.m. and I rounded the top corner here on Main Street and saw [the building] — it was heartbreaking and
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emotional,” Burnisky said. “[The floodwaters] had peaked. And I sat there for a few hours, just watching the waters recede. As soon as it was low enough, [officials] let me come in and look at everything.” The floodwaters busted the windows and filled the CMAC with a thick, slippery, smelly layer of mud and rotting debris. Burnisky stood there in the absolute demise of her dream. “As the waters were receding, we watched our picnic table float around, and it ended up down by the train tracks,” Burnisky slightly grinned, signaling a much-needed sense of humor in dark times. “And it still had the flower pots on it, so I went and retrieved those.” Luckily, the day before the historic storm, Burnisky was able to pack up most of the artwork in the gallery. “I spent all of my time getting every bit of artwork out of the gallery, loaded it into my [car] and took it home,” Burnisky said. “Because if something had happened to all of the artwork, I don’t think I would’ve recovered as well.” That was the second time the CMAC has
been flooded since it launched five years ago. Back in August 2021, after being open for only four days, it was flooded by the Pigeon River due to Tropical Storm Fred. Burnisky reopened the facility later that year. After each flood, the art collective has been stripped and renovated twice under Burnisky. It’s been a team effort. “My [then eight-year-old] son was shoveling mud out onto the street and the excavator would come over, scoop it up, take it away, and wave [to him],” Burnisky reminisced. “He had on his work boots and his overalls. He was just ready to get at it.” “I knew immediately I was going to rebuild, even seeing my building submerged,” Burnisky said of the Helene aftermath. The “Grand Re-Reopening” of CMAC was held in April 2025. Beyond the gallery artwork for sale and its studio members, the CMAC is again offering an array of ceramic classes and other workshops. “I’m just trying to take it one step at a time, one foot in front of the other,” Burnisky said of the reopening celebration. “I’m ready to welcome the community back more than anything.”
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Creating Place Originally from Asheville, Burnisky initially pursued a career as an English teacher. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision to take a beginner’s ceramic class at AB-Tech that forever shifted the trajectory of her life. “It was just a very basic wheel class, but it was so hands-on, and I’m a very hands-on, texture-oriented kind of person,” Burnisky said. “That’s the kind of art I love, and it always upset me that we didn’t have a ceramics class in high school. The second I got into ceramics, I knew ‘this is it.’” From there, Burnisky rented kilns in Asheville’s River Arts District. Eventually, she wanted a place of her own — in her own style and theme. Once Burnisky became a stay-at-home mom, she knew it was her chance to become a full-time artist. In 2017, the young family relocated to Canton, with CMAC coming to fruition thereafter. “These artistic voices need to be heard,” Burnisky said of the importance of places like CMAC. “People need a creative outlet, and I just want to be an advocate for those voices.” Walking outside, Burnisky looks up at the storm clouds, her eyes slowly descending and scanning the building, her mind undoubtedly thinking about all she’s been through with CMAC and everything the structure has witnessed in its century-old existence. Soon, Burnisky points to a set of small plaques on the inside of one of the outer doorways. It’s the waterline markers for each of the four floods that have hit the building since the dawn of the 21st century. The lower plaque states “Tropical Storm Fred/August 17, 2021/32 Inches,” with the next two as follows: “Hurricane Frances/September 8, 2004/4 Feet” and “Hurricane Ivan/September 17, 2004/5 Feet 6 Inches.” Standing on your tippy-toes, the top plaque reads: “Hurricane Helene/September 27, 2024/7 Feet 7 Inches.” “She’s gone through a lot, survived a lot,” Burnisky said of the building. “And as long as she’s still standing, I’ll continue coming back.”
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Arts+Culture Preserving tradition, perpetuating culture Qualla Arts & Crafts Mutual Basket weaving is one of the traditional Cherokee crafts.
T
he Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual in Cherokee — the oldest Native American craft cooperative in the nation — showcases the work of hundreds of artisans from the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians. “The continuing of our history as a tribe, and also through the arts and crafts, it is a way for artists to express themselves,” said QACM manager Amanda McCoy. “No matter what they do, our artists put their heart and soul into every piece they make, and it really does show in the craftsmanship.” With the tribe located on the Qualla Boundary, the longtime organization offers craftspeople a chance to display and sell their wares, learn from one another, and ultimately pass on their traditional ways. “A lot of these artists are masters of their craft,” McCoy said. “And for good reason, they’re very particular in their styles — it’s an honor to be invited in amongst the ranks [of talented members].”
ENSURING TRADITIONS ENDURE To join the cooperative, craftspeople and artists must undergo a juried process, in which a board of QACM craftspeople evaluates and determines the artist’s skills and artwork. That intricate skillset — whether it be baskets, jewelry, pottery, beadwork, textiles, carvings, paintings, or weaponry — is something that’s taken very seriously by the cooperative, especially in terms of how materials are gathered and what the exact creative process entails. McCoy also noted how a big part of the ethos of the QACM artists is to actively be aware of the sustainable harvesting of materials used in the creation of their products. QACM collaborates with local conservation
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groups, including Mainspring Conservation and Conserving Carolina, to study the land, educate artists, and mindfully gather materials. In conversation, McCoy gives the example of the distinction between a basket weaver and a basket maker. “Anybody can go and pick up a splint kit from an arts and crafts supply store and weave a basket,” McCoy said. “But, to be a basket maker, they have the knowledge — to pass on to future generations — of how to go out into the woods and find the proper tree they need or the proper-sized river cane they need.” Additionally, QACM participates in the Revitalization of Traditional Cherokee
Establishing the Co-op In 1946, roughly 60 Cherokee craftspeople met to establish the Cherokee Indian Craft Co-op. Around the same time, the Great Smoky National Park, located adjacent to the Qualla Boundary, began to attract tourists to the area, presenting an opportunity for Cherokee artists to display and sell their artwork while also keeping Cherokee traditions alive for future generations within their community. By 1949, the cooperative was juried into the Southern Highland Craft Guild. It was officially renamed Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual in the 1950s. “One of our charter members said in 1946, ‘It’s the best thing that our tribe ever chose to do,’” McCoy noted. “Because we feel that this place is just as important as anything historical because it’s becoming a part of history.”
Artisan Resources program, a grant-funded initiative under the Cherokee Preservation Foundation, working in collaboration with the NC Cooperative Extension program. From children to adults, programs through RTCAR encourage artists to learn about Cherokee cultural traditions and artwork, from land to hand, and how to protect and care for the land across generations. Now, with the 80th anniversary of the Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual quickly approaching, those storied artisans who are part of the cooperative continue to look towards the future with hope and pride. “[The cooperative] shows and reflects our mission of keeping the arts and crafts alive,” McCoy said. “We would love to see this place continue on after we’ve passed away. We may not be here, but it will go on.”
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Arts+Culture The living word John C. Campbell Folk School
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ecently celebrating its 100th anniversary (2025), the storied John C. Campbell Folk School — located in Brasstown amid the rural landscape of Clay County — remains a cultural bastion for the arts, music and dance in Western North Carolina. “[The school] had an effect of kind of changing what traditional music and dance was in the region,” said T-Claw Crawford, music and dance coordinator for JCCFS. Located on 300 acres of fields and rolling hills surrounded by the bucolic Blue Ridge Mountains, the institution is the oldest and largest school of its kind in the country. In seemingly every corner of the property are jovial faces — instructors and pupils alike — coming together to let their minds and bodies go with the flow of the creative spirit. “We promise ‘joy’ in our mission statement,” said Annie Fain Barralon, programs development manager for JCCFS. “And sometimes when you’re trying something new, it’s not always comfortable. So, there’s this discomfort we need to be open to supporting. Here, the teacher learns as much as the student and vice versa — it’s this feedback loop instead of a hierarchy.” The idea for, and eventual creation of, the JCCFS came from Campbell’s widow, Olive Dame Campbell, and her colleague, Marguerite Butler. The duo headed to Europe to cultivate and bring back the teachings and traditions they found to WNC to share and complement the mountain culture that was already established.
“And Olive was a connector of people,” Barralon said. “She knew — from traveling to folk schools in Scandinavia — that song, music and dance was a part of the glue and of the community feeling.” In the 1920s, when the school was coming to fruition, young folks were leaving Western North Carolina in troves, in search of a better life, with many heading for the cotton mills outside of the area.
“[The school] started off as an agricultural setting,” said Martha Owen, who is the creative programming assistant at JCCFS. “They were trying to help young people stay in place — there was a desire to keep people on the land here.” From its earliest days, JCCFS looked at its programming as a way to mitigate the brain drain on the rural communities by offering people other possible avenues of revenue. “The impetus of this place was to find something [people could learn] that they could sell,”
WANT TO GO? The 50th annual Fall Festival will be held from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Oct. 3-4, at the John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown. Featuring over 200 artisan vendors and a slew of craft demon-
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Owen said. “And then also find a way to help people feed and take care of themselves.” Nowadays, the campus offers hundreds of classes throughout the year, with a seemingly endless selection of artistic mediums and musical opportunities available to locals and visitors — woodcarving, blacksmithing, gardening, writing, cooking, etc. “You’re not just coming to a class, you’re coming to a place,” Owen said in a matter-of-fact tone. “It’s not an industrial setting, it’s more of a homestead kind of setting. And you have people who come here to improve their calligraphy or how to write their first novel or learn photography — [JCCFS] is anything that anybody can imagine.” “We promise ‘joy’ in our mission statement,” added Barralon. “And sometimes when you’re trying something new, it’s not always comfortable. So, there’s this discomfort we need to be open to supporting. Here, the teacher learns as much as the student and vice versa — it’s this feedback loop instead of a hierarchy.” For Owen, whose expertise resides in “spinning, knitting, crochet, felt making, dyeing, and surface design,” her journey to JCCFS began in 1978. Back then, she was a young adult eager to find her passion in life. “A lot of what’s going on is the exchange of ideas across the campus,” Owen said. “And it’s like you push pause on your life — your busy life — and you have a chance to be still, be creative, learning something new, meet other people. For a lot of folks, it’s paradise.”
strations, the gathering will also showcase a wide-array of live music and dance, as well as food onsite and other activities for any and all. For more information about the festival and/or a full schedule of upcoming events and year-round classes at the school, visit folkschool.org.
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WNC MUSIC VENUES • American Legion Post 47 Waynesville 828.456.8691
• Angry Elk Brewing
Whittier 828.497.1015 facebook.com/angryelkbrewingco
• Balsam Falls Brewing
Sylva 828.631.1987 / balsamfallsbrewing.com
• Balsam Mountain Inn As a teenager, Owen was given a family heirloom, an antique spinning wheel. It sparked her curiosity, to which her grandmother saw an advertisement one day in the local newspaper for spinning and dyeing class at JCCFS. Owen took the two-week course and, suddenly, everything clicked. “And it just kind of went on from there,” Owen chuckled. “I’ve never gotten bored. There’s no way to get bored, there are so many aspects of [spinning].” Come Tuesday night, like clockwork, Crawford runs a community dance, one where contra styles are featured alongside a bevy of live music ranging from bluegrass to folk, Americana to blues. “Those are a way to overlap the community and the students,” Crawford noted. “And it’s the music, dance and singing element that’s one thing that [separates us] from a craft school.” When it comes to music and dance, Crawford estimates that he alone books upwards of 300 events each year for just those aspects of the JCCFS programming, the culmination of which being the annual Fall Festival (Oct. 3-4). With two stages, dozens of local and regional acts perform to an estimated 20,000 folks who attend the event and wander the hundreds of artisan vendor booths and live craft demonstrations. “My lens on life is just trying to include everyone,” Crawford said. “So, what type of programs, events, gatherings and spaces can we create a shared culture that’s more harmonious?” That genuine sense of togetherness is what lies at the foundation of JCCFS. It’s this steadfast ethos of connecting people, places and things within this storied space of creativity and cultivation.
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“People move here because there are not many small communities with such a robust music and dance culture,” Crawford said. “And everyone [around here] has their own little side trade, too.” With the 100th anniversary celebration now in the rearview mirror at JCCFS, Barralon has taken time to pause and reflect on just what this property means to human beings in the fast-paced 21st century. “We’re all humans and we know this feels good,” Barralon said of JCCFS’s intersection of art, nature and community. “But, modern life pulls us away from this good feeling — our folk school is about togetherness.” “It’s excitement. It’s joy. It’s really refreshing for people who come here,” Crawford added. “They get caught up in another energetic state than they would be in their regular day-to-day. So, it’s important for people to have an experience like this if at all possible.” When asked what she sees when looking at the next possible 100 years of JCCFS, Owen lights up in a sincere, confident voice, especially when you take the query and place it against a modern, digital world where more and more people are seeking those traditional trades and skillsets — this campus where tranquility and using your hands come together. “It’s been a long, long road, but I’m extremely optimistic right now for the future [of the school],” Owen said. “There were a lot of good parts to that old life [before the age of convenience].” (The story was created in partnership between The Smoky Mountain News and the Blue Ridge National Heritage Area and its annual “Down the Road” and “Craft Trails” magazines. For more information, visit blueridgenationalheritagearea.com.)
Balsam 828.283.0145 / thebalsammountaininn.com
• Bevel Bar
Waynesville 828.246.0996 / bevelbar.com
• Blue Ridge Beer Hub
Waynesville 828.246.9320 / blueridgebeerhub.com
• Blue Stage
Andrews 828.361.2534 / thebluestage.com
• Boojum Brewing
Waynesville 828.246.0350 / boojumbrewing.com
• Breadheads Tiki Shak
Sylva 828.307.2160 / breadheadstikishak.com
• Classic Wineseller
Waynesville 828.452.6000 / classicwineseller.com
• Concerts On The Creek
Sylva 828.586.2155 mountainlovers.com/concerts-on-the-creek
• Cowee School Arts & Heritage Center Franklin 828.369.4080 / coweeschool.org/music
• Currahee Brewing
Franklin 828.634.0078 / curraheebrew.com
• Farm At Old Edwards
Highlands 866.526.8008 oldedwardshospitality.com/orchardsessions
• Folkmoot Friendship Center Waynesville 828.452.2997 / folkmoot.org
• Fontana Village Resort Wildwood Grill Fontana Dam 800.849.2258 / fontanavillage.com
• Friday Night Live
Highlands highlandschamber.org
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WNC MUSIC VENUES • Frog Level Brewing
Waynesville 828.454.5664 / froglevelbrewing.com
• Frog Quarters
Franklin 828.369.8488 / littletennessee.org
• Groovin’ on the Green
Cashiers villagegreencashiersnc.com/concerts
• Happ’s Place
Glenville 828.742.5700 / happsplace.com
• Harrah’s Cherokee Casino Resort Cherokee caesars.com/harrahs-cherokee
• High Dive
• Meadowlark Motel
• Saturdays On Pine
• Mountain Layers Brewing
• Sauced
Maggie Valley 828.926.1717 / meadowlarkmotel.com Bryson City 828.538.0115 mountainlayersbrewingcompany.com
• Nantahala Outdoor Center Nantahala Gorge 828.785.5082 / noc.com
• Orchard Coffee
Waynesville 828.246.9264 / orchardcoffeeroasters.com
• Swain Arts Center Bryson City 828.488.7843 swainartscenter.com
• Pickin’ On The Square
Franklin franklinnc.com/pickin-on-the-square.html
• Lazy Hiker Brewing
• Quirky Birds Treehouse & Bistro
• Legends Sports Bar & Grill
• Rathskeller Coffee Haus & Pub
• Marianna Black Library
Bryson City 828.488.3030 / fontanalib.org
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• Ugly Dog Pub
• Pinnacle Relief CBD Wellness Lounge
Franklin 828.524.3600 / fontanalib.org
828.524.1598 / smokymountainarts.com
Robbinsville 828.479.3364 stecoahvalleycenter.com
• Lazy Hiker Brewing
• Macon County Public Library
Franklin
• Stecoah Valley Center
Sylva 828.586.9678 / innovation-brewing. com
Waynesville 828.454.5664 / froglevelbrewing.com
Sapphire 828.743.8655 / slopesidetavern.com
Canton 828.492.8009 southern-porch.com
• Innovation Brewing
• Lineside at Frog Level Brewing
Franklin 828.276.9463 / slantedwindow.com
• Southern Porch
Highlands 828.526.9047 highlandsperformingarts.com
Maggie Valley 828.944.0403 facebook.com/legendssportsgrillmaggievalley
• Slanted Window Tasting Station
• Smoky Mountain Center for the Performing Arts
Hayesville 828.389.ARTS / thepeacocknc.org
• Highlands Performing Arts Center
Sylva 828.349.2337 / lazyhikerbrewing.com
Waynesville 828.246.6292 / scotsmanpublic.com
• Peacock Performing Arts Center
Otto 770.335.0967 / go2ottonc.com
Highlands 828.526.2590 highlandermountainhouse.com
Franklin 828.349.2337 / lazyhikerbrewing.com
• Scotsman
• SlopeSide Tavern
• Highlander Mountain House
Dillsboro 828.226.0262 / innovation-brewing.com
Waynesville 828.246.9585 / saucedwnc.com
• Otto Community Center
Highlands 828.526.2200 highlandsdive.com
• Innovation Station
Highlands highlandschamber.org
Sylva 828.508.3018 / facebook.com/pinnaclerelief
Dillsboro 828.586.1717 / facebook.com/quirkybirdstreehouse Franklin 828.369.6796 facebook.com/rathskellercoffeebarandpub
• Salty’s Dogs Seafood & Grill
Maggie Valley 828.926.9105 / facebook.com/saltydogs2005
• Santé Wine Bar
Sylva 828.631.3075 facebook.com/thewinebarandcellar
• Satulah Mountain Brewing
Highlands 828.482.9794 / satulahmountainbrewing.com
Cashiers 828.743.3000 / theuglydogpub.com
• Ugly Dog Pub
Highlands 828.526.8364 / theuglydogpub.com
• Valley Cigar & Wine Co. Waynesville 828.944.0686 valleycigarandwineco.com
• Valley Tavern
Maggie Valley 828.926.7440 / valley-tavern.com
• Water’n Hole Bar & Grill
Waynesville 828.456.4750 facebook.com/waternhole.bar
• Whiteside Brewing
Cashiers 828.743.6000 / whitesidebrewing.com
• Yonder Community Market
Franklin 828.200.2169 / eatrealfoodinc.com
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Arts+Culture Coming together Haywood County Fair
W
hen it comes to the rich, vibrant history of Haywood County, you’d be hard-pressed to find someone as passionate and knowledgeable on the subject as Alex McKay, especially when it comes to the annual fair. “I think what people here now take for granted is that, for so long, Haywood County was farming and agriculture,” McKay said. “And a lot of that is physically disappearing.” Sitting in Smoky Mountain Coffee Roasters in the Hazelwood neighborhood of Waynesville one recent morning, McKay sips his cup and flips through several historical photos of the Haywood County Fair. “My family has been here for so many generations,” McKay said. “And I grew up with all of those stories about everything that’s happened here. I cared and I listened to the stories. It meant something to me.” Over the years, he’s been able to track down and collect the priceless images. For McKay, whose family goes back seven generations in Haywood County, farming is a deep symbol of pride for his family. “My people were mountain people. We
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The carnival rides are one of the favorites at the Haywood County Fair.
were farmers,” McKay said. “My grandparents were big producers at the tailgate market back when it was on Main Street [in Waynesville]. We did beans, corn, peppers and tomatoes, all kinds of varieties.” McKay grew up around farming, with the fair being the one anchor point of the year for the entire local agricultural community. Beyond the produce entries in the competitions, McKay also retains fond memories of his mother and grandmother entering the quilt contests. “Everyone looked forward to the fair, especially the farmers,” McKay said. “They’d learn new techniques and new equipment would be shown.” The first Haywood County Fair, which took place in 1905, was held in a large field off Sulphur Springs Road in Waynesville.
Beyond the exhibition tents, vendors and activities, there was also a horse racing track (where betting was allowed) and an elaborate parade that went around town. “People would bring Revolutionary War relics and Civil War relics,” McKay said. “But, the biggest part of the early fairs were the new innovations that came to mountains for the first time.” Of those new inventions presented to the general public in our region included the first car and first airplane (which was brought to the fair by train) to be seen in the mountains of Western North Carolina. Locals even got to ride in the car, which would have been a surreal experience for those used to horseback or simply walking to get somewhere. And yet, the wildest spectacle was the balloon ascension in 1908 and 1909. With a professional inside the balloon, it would ascend upwards of 3,000 feet into the sky above the fairgrounds, only to purposely explode, with the demonstrator parachuting back to earth. “[The demonstrator] popped [the balloon] and parachuted down,” McKay shook his head in awe. “And back then, I can’t even image how primitive the parachutes were.” According to McKay, the balloon demonstration was apparently done every single day of the fair when it was showcased. “It’d be wonderful [today] to see a balloon go up 3,000 feet and have a guy jump out of it,” McKay chuckled. Throughout the early decades of the fair,
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there were many gaps in when it actually occurred and was able to happen. Between World War I, the Spanish Flu, Great Depression and so forth, the fair would take a backseat to pressing matters of the day. But, by the mid-1930s, the fair returned, this time taking place near the Waynesville Country Club. For many decades, there were livestock shows that would hold the place of the fair. “The fair is the whole county’s history, and it brought people together,” McKay noted. “Back in the early days, people didn’t leave the mountains very much, so the fair was the biggest thing that happened right here.” The modern-day version of the fair as we know it would be set in place until the early 1990s when the fairgrounds (now Smoky Mountain Event Center) was constructed. Since then, the fair has remained a beloved annual tradition for locals and visitors alike, with the gathering currently celebrating its 120th anniversary. “The fair will always bring us together,” McKay said.
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__________________________________________________________ HANDCRAFTED, HERITAGE INSPIRED KITCHEN & BAR …COMMUNITY FOCUSED ENVIRONMENT CORNER OF BRANNER & DEPOT WAYNESVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
www.singletreekitchen.com (828) 246-9760 JOSH WEEKS
FOUNDER & CHEF
__________________________________________________________
CORNER OF BRANNER & DEPOT • WAYNESVILLE, NC singletreekitchen.com • (828) 246-9760
WANT TO GO? With a theme of “Where Tradition Meets Tomorrow,” the annual Haywood County Fair will take place Sept. 24-27 at the Smoky Mountain Event Center in Waynesville. For more information and/or to view a full schedule of events and activities, visit haywoodcountyfair.com.
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Museums A lthough the rich history and culture of Western North Carolina is alive and thriving through the hands of our local artisans and performers, there are also numerous museums here preserving and perpetuating the heritage of Southern Appalachia. These buildings each pay homage to the crafts, sounds, and deeply held traditions of these ancient mountains and its people.
• American Museum of The House Cat
Over 5,000 items dedicated to entire history of the house cat, here and abroad. 5063 U.S. 441, Sylva 828.421.0275 or 828.506.1236 facebook.com/americanmuseumofthehousecat
• Andrews Art Museum
Exhibits and galleries featuring local and regional artists. Corner of Chestnut and Third streets, Andrews 828.360.5071 • andrewsvalleyarts.com
36 Park Street, Canton 828.646.3412 cantonnc.com
• Cherokee County Historical Museum
Artifacts and exhibits showcasing the Cherokee Indians, local history and artisans. 87 Peachtree Street, Murphy 828.837.6792 cherokeecounty-nc.gov
• Clay County Historical & Arts Council Museum
Displays exhibiting the history, art and people of the area. 21 Davis Loop, Hayesville 828.389.6814 clayhistoryarts.org
• Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians
Showcasing the history of fly fishing in the Southeast. 210 Main Street, Bryson City 828.488.3681 flyfishingmuseum.org A sculpture greets visitors to the Museum of the Cherokee Indian in Cherokee.
exhibits and displays. 4735 N.C. 107 North, Glenville 828.743.1658
• Graham County History Museum
Museum preview featuring educational and interpretive displays and rotating exhibits managed by the Graham County Historical Association at the Graham County Welcome Center. 747 Rodney Orr Bypass 828.479.3790 historygc.org
• Graham County Museum of Prehistoric Relics A collection of prehistoric artifacts from North, South and Central America. 3204 Fontana Road, Fontana Dam 828.479.3677 thehikeinn.com
• Haywood County Historical & Genealogical Society, Inc. Post Office Box 444 Waynesville, NC 28786 nchchgs.org
• Highlands Museum & Historical Village A village composed of several restored buildings, with historical exhibits in the museum. 524 North 4th Street, Highlands 828.787.1050 highlandshistory.com
• John W. Bardo Fine & Performing Arts Center
Local and regional art, with historical exhibits. 199 Centennial Drive, Cullowhee 828.227.2787 wcu.edu/bardo-arts-center
• Junaluska Memorial & Medicine Trail
Displays dedicated to preserving Cherokee Indian history and culture. Not a museum but a trail. 1 Junaluska Drive, Robbinsville 828.479.4727
• Macon County Historical Society & Museum
• Appalachian Rivers Aquarium
Exhibits regional species of fish, amphibians, reptiles and hellbenders. 117 Island Street, Bryson City 828.488.7857 flyfishingmuseum.org/aquarium
• Canton Area Historical Museum
Displays focusing on the cultural history of Canton and Haywood County.
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• Franklin Gem & Mineral Museum
Extensive exhibits on the region’s gems and minerals. 25 Phillips Street, Franklin 828.369.7831 fgmm.org
• Glenville Historical Museum
Showcasing the history and culture of Glenville and greater Western North Carolina with
Antiques and artifacts showcasing the history of Macon and Western North Carolina. 36 West Main Street, Franklin 828.524.9758 maconnchistorical.org
• Mountain Farm Museum
Collection of historical log buildings and artifacts. 150 U.S. 441 North, Oconaluftee Visitor Center 423.436.1200 nps.gov/grsm
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• Mountain Heritage Center
Extensive displays of Western North Carolina and Southern Appalachian history. 150 H.F. Robinson Building, Western Carolina University, Cullowhee 828.227.7129 wcu.edu
• Museum of American Cut & Engraved Glass
Exhibits presenting one of the finest collections of its kind in the world. 472 Chestnut Street, Highlands 828.526.3415 ashevilleguidebook.com
Theatres & Playhouses
• Museum of the Cherokee People
Large exhibits showcasing the extensive and intricate tribe history. 589 Tsali Boulevard, Cherokee 828.497.3481 motcp.org
• Museum of Haywood County History
Located in the historic Shook-Smathers House, one of the oldest frame homes in Western North Carolina. Operated by the Haywood County Historical and Genealogical Society, the museum features exhibits on local families, industries, military service, and mountain traditions. 178 Morgan Street, Clyde nchchgs.org/mhch 828.564.1044
• Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts
Featuring unique works from some of the state’s most acclaimed artisans. 49 Shelton Street, Waynesville 828.452.1551 sheltonhouse.org
• Ruby City Gems Museum
Thousands of gem and mineral specimens on display. 131 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.3967 rubycity.com
• Scottish Tartans Museum
Exhibit on Scottish history and culture abroad and in Western North Carolina. 86 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.7472 scottishtartans.org
Inside of the Haywood Arts Repertory Theater in Waynesville.
• Haywood Arts Regional Theatre
• Peacock Performing Arts Center
• Highlands Performing Arts Center
• Smoky Mountain Center for the Performing Arts
Waynesville 828.456.6322 / harttheater.org Highlands 828.526.9047 highlandsperformingarts.com
• Highlands Playhouse
Highlands 828.526.2695 / highlandsplayhouse.org
• John W. Bardo Fine & Performing Arts Center
Western Carolina University Cullowhee 828.227.2479 / wcu.edu/bardoartscenter
Hayesville 828.389.2787 / peacockplayhouse.org
Franklin 828.524.1598 / greatmountainmusic.com
• Smoky Mountain Community Theatre
Bryson City 828.488.8227 / smctheatre.com
• Stecoah Valley Cultural Arts Center Robbinsville 828.479.3364 / stecoahvalleycenter.com
• Smoky Mountain Trains Museum
Collection of 7,000 Lionel engines, cars, accessories, plus large operating layout. 100 Greenlee Street, Bryson City 800.872.4681, x215 gsmr.com/smoky-mountain-trains-museum
• Wheels Through Time Museum
Rare and extensive collection of vintage motorcycles and classic automobiles. 62 Vintage Lane, Maggie Valley 828.926.6266 wheelsthroughtime.com
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Peacock Performing Arts Center in Hayesville.
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Arts+Culture Sharing the craft Jo Ridge Kelley Fine Art
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ith the traffic and noise of a busy Main Street in downtown Waynesville zooming by outside her window, Jo Ridge Kelley creates works of tranquility and natural wonders inside her cozy studio. “I love being able to pull from myself,” she said. “I’m a very soulful person, and painting is a way to work with my feelings — to be living in the moment.” Kelley has been creating most of her life. Growing up on a dairy farm in High Point, she found herself constantly mesmerized by the vast and varied scenery of the property, where light and shadows shifted hourly. “The landscape always inspired me, watching the light change across the farm,” Kelley said. “I started drawing and painting as a young girl. I loved it, and stuck with it.” Relocating to Waynesville in 1981, Kelley has become a beloved and highly sought after artisan around Western North Carolina. With vibrant colors and soothing tones in her art, one finds themselves immediately drawn to Kelley’s pieces, where the distractions of the outside world seem to melt away. “I’ve been focusing more on color lately,” Kelley said. “I think everybody needs a happy place to go. And if you can’t find it outside or wherever, maybe you could find it in a painting.” Whether she disappears into the backwoods of Southern Appalachia or simply wanders around the neighborhood of her studio, Kelley finds inspiration in whatev-
Jo Kelley at work on one of her paintings.
“It’s about feeling alive and feeling that energy, being joyful and happy with your interactions with people and with nature.” — Jo Kelly
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er it may be that catches her eye. “I’ve always been observant,” she said. “I could just walk right outside here on Main Street and find a place to paint, a spot that inspires me or inspires a painting. It can be a feeling or the energy of a place, sometimes it’s just the color, too.” When she puts brush to blank canvas, Kelley lets her fingers flow with whatever it is they’re channeling in her “plein air” (open air) style, where the energies of time and place move her brush strokes across the emerging image. “Whatever is happening around me, I try to leave myself vulnerable to the energy that nature is providing me,” Kelley said. “Whether it’s a sunrise, sunset, reflection on the water or deep shadows in the woods — it’s the painting speaking back to me, more so now than ever before.” Kelley noted that it was being exposed to art at a young age, and having her art encouraged by her parents, that really set the stage for what she would ultimately do with her life, and also how she conducts herself in the grand scheme of things. “Art is a way children can excel and perform,” she said. “For me, growing up in a large family, art was a way for me to get a little recognition, to boost my ego and help me in other subjects like math and science, which studies show how art will excel those other subjects.” In trying to spread her love and pure enthusiasm for art and the endless depths of the creative spirit, Kelley tells folks to go with what they genuinely feel, where each person shouldn’t compromise what they see in their minds with any sort of preconceived notion of “what art is” and “what art should be.” “Trust your instincts,” she said. “It’s about feeling alive and feeling that energy, being joyful and happy with your interactions with people and with nature.” Now settled in her current Main Street studio, Kelley is setting the stage for increasing her presence in the community as a creative force aiming to connect the dots of people and art, where the intersection and interaction will yield the fruits of artistic and collaborative efforts. “It’s been such a wonderful journey,” she said. “Art is something I’m very dedicated to growing in our area. You put your heart out there, and I couldn’t see myself doing anything else but creating and teaching — it’s where the magic is.”
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Outdoors+Recreation The art of adventure Outdoor 76
S
ixteen years ago, Main Street in Mountain as a kid,” Gasbarro said. “And that hit hard, and the industries Rob and I were Franklin was a pretty quiet place. It planted something in me early on. As soon working in were both severely impacted. At wasn’t hard to find a parking space as I had any independence, I did everything the same time, we shared this deep passion and most of the things we enjoy I could to get back to this region and spend for the outdoors and saw a real gap in our downtown today didn’t exist, at least not as much time outside as possible.” community when it came to quality outdoor yet. But, 15 years ago, an anchor business The duo eventually crossed paths in apparel, footwear and gear.” appeared on a hope and a dream — Outdoor WNC, with McCall based in real estate and “There was a shared feeling that the worst 76. Gasbarro working for “an engineering firm of the recession was behind us and that “There were a lot of empty storefronts focused on bridge design and construction.” we weren’t alone in recognizing Franklin’s and not much energy or activity. potential,” Gasbarro added. “And Still, we knew we wanted to be on beyond all the metrics, Franklin was Main Street because, to us, commuhome. Even when Cory and I played nity has to start there,” said Cory devil’s advocate and questioned McCall, co-owner of Outdoor 76. whether this was the right town, the “[Back then], it felt like people were answer kept coming back the same — it giving up on downtown. We never was a no-brainer.” thought we were the solution, but we Once the store opened, the shelves believed we could be part of it.” and showroom floor quickly filled up With a slogan of “your adventure with an endless selection of outdoor begins with us,” McCall and his busirecreation products — shoes, jackets, ness partner, Rob Gasbarro, officially tents and seemingly every kind of launched the company on Oct. 2, attire or accessory needed to survive 2010. the unpredictable elements of Mother “Opening day anxiety was indeNature. scribable,” Gasbarro said. “We were “To this day, we remain 100% serselling $100 rain jackets in a rural vice- and experience-driven, and we mountain town, just coming out of let the shop follow that lead,” Gasbara national recession, while many of ro said. “When someone tells us, ‘We the area’s largest employers were drove six hours to get fit for shoes,’ that disappearing. Fast-forward 15 years, lands in a way that’s hard to put into and everything we hoped for has words.” come to fruition — and continues to Outdoor 76 also boasts a taproom grow.” that’s a popular social haven for locals To preface, McCall is an and visitors alike. And there’s regular eighth-generation Maconian. community programming happening “So, Western North Carolina isn’t in the space, including fly-tying nights, just where I live, it’s really engrained Outdoors 76 co-owners Cory McCall (left) and Roy Gasbarro Rotary Club events and Nantahala hiking out West. into who I am,” McCall said. “I grew Hiking Club orientations, as well as the up spending most of my time outside “Smoky Mountain Storytellers” series — fishing, hunting, camping and explorAnd with the devastation caused by the that’s garnered quite an audience as of late. ing the Nantahala National Forest. Being 2008 recession, the two friends did what a “There’s not much that’s off-limits [for outdoors was never something special or lot of folks did at that time: finding themevents],” Gasbarro noted. “If it brings people planned, it was simply how we lived.” selves at this existential crossroads to really together, we’re interested.” Hailing from Florida, Gasbarro “knew from sit down and ponder their next move, this To note, in the aftermath of Hurricane an early age that I was a bit of a fish out of unknown chapter to possibly chase your Helene in September 2024, Outdoor 76 water” growing up in the Sunshine State. dreams, hell or high water. “became a hub for donation collecting and “My first real connection to the moun“The idea for Outdoor 76 was born out of sorting.” According to McCall, the collection tains came during summer trips to Black uncertainty,” McCall said. “The recession resulted in over “120,000 pounds of donated
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goods, with over 100 people showing up to lend a hand.” “[And] that didn’t happen because of us. It happened because we allowed our space to become what the community needed in that moment,” McCall said. “It was one of the most meaningful experiences of our 15 years [being here].” And on any given day, just when the Outdoor 76 showroom begins to fill up with outdoor enthusiasts looking for the ideal items to enhance their next adventure, it’s not lost on Gasbarro and McCall as to what they offer — a genuine space for connectivity through the sacred, ancient passion and purpose that is exploring the great outdoors. “For me, it all comes back to community,” McCall said. “From day one, everything we’ve done has been about connecting people. The products we sell can absolutely be found online, [but] what people are really looking for, though, is experience and connection.” “We didn’t do this for recognition. We wanted to provide a good life for our families and serve our community,” Gasbarro added. “Seeing the shop full of people engaging with staff, helping someone finish a thruhike [on the Appalachian Trail], or getting someone on their first trail without their feet hurting — that’s the icing on the cake. And it still gives us goosebumps.”
WANT TO GO? Specializing in all your outdoor needs, from shoes to tents and more, Outdoor 76 is located at 35 East Main Street in Franklin, North Carolina. Store hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday. For more information, visit outdoor76.com, call 828.349.7676 or email info@outdoor76.com.
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Outdoors+Recreation Seeking the high places
Many historic firetowers, like this one on Wayah Bald, remain along the trails and peaks in Western North Carolina.
W
hy do we seek the high places? The easiest explanation for going to the mountains is for the scenery. Even so, there must be something ingrained in the human experience that draws us to lofty summits and places where we can look out over the landscape. The reasons vary from the practical to the spiritual. High places represent safety and security.
Elevated vantage points have been used throughout history for human survival. From the heights, an approaching enemy can be detected from a long distance, or an attack more easily fended off. A path through unknown territory might be scouted out as waterways and passes can all be seen better from a high perch. Hunters are better able spot herds of animals from an overlook. Migratory animals often use mountain ridges
to travel long distances. Surely the Cherokee utilized ridge tops in their network of trails connecting villages and hunting grounds. There is something about the Appalachians that evokes a deep emotional response in most folks. When you are able to get an encompassing view of your surroundings, you automatically know more about your place in the world. For many, this serves to stimulate the curiosity to learn about
SELECT PEAKS
Muth, author “Mountain Biking North Carolina,” the Mouse Branch overlook 4.5 miles into that loop is the most stunning. On the Right it’s Windy Gap Overlook and the overlook on the Left trail isn’t named. All are fabulous.
This is a land of 4,000- and 5,000-foot mountains in one of the region’s wildest areas. Follow State Route 1310 out of Franklin until you pass Wayah Crest, where there is a camping area. A forest service road, with signs, leads to the parking area at Wayah Bald, where there is an old Civilian Conservation Corps firetower made of stone. Views from the platform are wonderful, and the Appalachian Trail passes right by.
Mt. Pisgah (5,749 feet) Located near milepost 408 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (he’s the man who built Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous. Tsali’s Fontana Lake overlooks (2,000 feet plus) If you’re a mountain biker, too often you are in the trees or too dog tired after a climb to enjoy the views, but there are several in Tsali that are worth getting off your bike and using as a rest break, photo-op or both. All of these are just above 2,000 feet in elevation, but because of the lake’s backdrop they make for stunning views. Tsali Recreation Area is located 12 miles west of Bryson City in the Nantahala National Forest. Go west on U.S. 74 and turn right on N.C. 28. Tsali is about five minutes down the road. Once there, the Mouse Branch, Right and Left loops all have great overlooks. According Timm
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Mt. LeConte (6,643 feet) The vistas are endless in the Smokies, but getting to the top of this mountain has the added advantage of being to check out LeConte Lodge, the only commercial lodging facility in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There are five trails to the lodge, the shortest and steepest being Alum Cave Trail at 5.5 miles, which a hiker in good condition can do in approximately four hours. None of these trails can be considered a stroll and you occasionally encounter ice and snow as late as May or as early as October. The other trails are Rainbow Falls and Trillium Gap, each 6.5 miles, a hike of about five hours; Bullhead at 7.2 miles and about five hours; and Boulevard, 8 miles and about 5.5 hours. Parking is available at the start of each trail. Once at the top signs lead to the best overlooks. Wayah Bald (5,342 feet) The Nantahala Mountains are not as tall as the Smokies, but the views are every bit as stunning.
Max Patch (4,629 feet) This may be the most scenic bald in the Smokies as well as one of the most accessible. From the top, the 360-degree views, the sheer vastness of the bald (which is mowed by the Forest Service) and the beauty is well worth the trip. Since the trail to the parking area is about a quarter of a mile max, it’s a great place to picnic and watch the sunset. Take Exit 7, the Harmon Den Exit, and turn right off the exit onto Cold Springs Creek Road. The dirt road goes into Pisgah National Forest. Stay on the main road for several miles until you come to a sign for Max Patch. It is a left-hand turn. Stay on the road until you come to a parking area with an unobstructed view of the bald. Follow the trail to the top of the bald and it intersects with the Appalachian Trail.
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nature or to seek wilderness. Others find the experience to be humbling, revealing the relative insignificance of the individual in the vastness of creation. The religious and spiritual connection with natural heights is easily explained in the context of being closer to Heaven, the gods and spirits. On Mt. Sinai, God presented Moses with the Ten Commandments and on Mt. Pisgah, Moses got a glimpse of the Promised Land. Native Americans attached sacred significance to high places. The Incas performed human sacrifice on sacred peaks in the Andes. Monks of various Eastern religions have built almost inaccessible monasteries on high precipices. At times, mountain travel involves personal
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challenge and extraordinary risk. When asked why he wanted to climb Mt. Everest, George Mallory replied, “Because it is there.” Whether Mallory reached the summit in
1924 is still in question, but the same adventurous spirit still drives many to climb the most difficult mountains. Even in Western North Carolina, the most remote peaks require no small amount of effort to reach. “Peakbagging” is the sport of getting to the top of as many peaks as possible. Hiking up a mountain is great exercise. The air is less dense and flows easily in and out of your lungs, but the lower concentration of oxygen means greater oxygen debt during physical activity. Eventually, the body becomes more efficient and compensates. Unfortunately, summer hikers in the Smokies may have difficulty with respiration due to the low oxygen density combined with high ozone levels caused by pollution from autos and power plants. Visiting the high places can even be a social event. In Japan, large numbers of hikers may crowd a summit trail. The camaraderie of sharing the journey and the view with good friends or a loved one is definitely a bonding experience and often requires cooperation to get there. On the other hand, the sense of solitude one experiences when standing alone on a lofty wilderness summit is difficult to describe or explain.
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Outdoors+Recreation Ankle deep, all in Matt Canter’s journey to fly fishing guide
M
att Canter made the choice to attend Western Carolina University in Cullowhee while ankledeep in the Tuckaseegee River, fighting a hungry rainbow trout at the other end of his fly rod.
“It was a wonderful experience,” Canter said about his time at WCU. “I think it’s the best school there is if you love the outdoors.” The parks and recreation management major set his sights on becoming a fly-fishing guide from childhood backyard in High Matt Canter shows off a recent catch.
He hadn’t seen campus or met his peers, but Canter didn’t need more convincing. For the future fly-fishing guide and owner of Brookings Fly Shop in Cashiers, the pristine waters surrounding Cullowhee had done the job well enough.
Point, but his experiences fishing the mountains of Western North Carolina with his family cemented that ambition. “I remember my first trout. My mom took me up to the Boone area when I was about 11. First time in the mountains at that point.
THE BROOKINGS BASH What is Brookings Bash?
A one-day outdoor festival in Cashiers, NC featuring bluegrass music, food trucks, and local vendors—all to benefit Habitat for Humanity’s affordable homeownership programs. When and where is the event?
Brookings Bash will take place on September 6, from noon to 7:30pm at Brookings Anglers in Cashiers.
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First time really fishing for trout,” Canter said. “About an hour into it, I caught my first wild brown trout, and it was, like, the best thing ever. Total addiction from there.” It came across in words, certainly, and in small moments of compassion. Over the course of the afternoon, Canter did everything from setting up his clients’ flies to tying their wading boots at the bank. He took time to point out the well-camouflaged trout by their delicate shadows on the river bottom and showed me the principles of casting between recordings. “I really enjoy seeing other people learn and get excitement and satisfaction from being successful. And I always say fly fishing will take you places you would otherwise never see,” Canter noted. Canter came to understand the full truth of that sentiment over time. While attending WCU, the High Point native met his future wife Natalie and, by the close of his senior year, he’d drawn the very first plans for his fly-fishing business, a capstone project from professor Deborah Singleton. His career quickly took shape. “I actually started guiding during school,” Canter said. “In the summers I’d go up to Minnesota and Canada and lead 10-to-12day canoe trips with the Boy Scouts… As soon as I graduated, I started guiding for a company in Cherokee.” Not long after taking that position in Cherokee, Canter joined Brookings’ operations in Cashiers, and that decision proved instru-
How can I get tickets?
Search for “Brookings Bash” online or call the fly shop at 828-7433768 Who benefits from the event?
100% of proceeds go to Transylvania Habitat for Humanity’s building programs, supporting affordable homeownership and critical home repairs for families in need. What should I bring?
Bring a blanket or chairs, your appetite, and your sense of community. The event is family-friendly and outdoors—rain or shine!
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“The whole idea was community,” Canter said. “Cashiers is a second-home community, and a lot of people don’t really know each other. “What we noticed on destination trips was that if you take people somewhere adventurous together, they come back as friends… So we thought, if people who love fishing just get to know one another locally, that benefits everybody.” Canter said it has exceeded his expectations. “I can’t tell you how many real friendships started there… I pinch myself every time I pull in,” he said. “When I told my dad I was gonna be a fly fishing guide, he said, ‘If you’re OK with trying to scratch by on about $40,000 a year,
go for it,’ and I said, ‘OK, that’s what I’m gonna do… To have the opportunity to build the store that we’ve built is just above and beyond. I never would have imagined it.” Canter now lives in Brevard with his wife and two children. He invariably spends his days by the water, and even now, it doesn’t feel like work. When I asked Canter what advice he had to share with current WCU Catamounts set on a fishing career, he shared what he looks for in guides he brings aboard. “In my opinion, people skills are more important than anything… I don’t care whether you can catch 100 fish or not. You need some skillset with fly fishing, but first and foremost you need people skills and the ability to entertain,” Canter said. “I can teach somebody to fish. I can’t teach personality. “I have no patience for ego,” Canter added. “If somebody gets cocky, they leave, and because of that, we’ve got a really team-oriented environment. Everybody helps everybody. There’s no secrecy … I’ll tell whoever’s guiding tomorrow exactly what flies worked best today.” — By Shane Ryden
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mental. The experienced outdoorsman quickly worked his way up to a lead guide position at Brookings, before the 2008 financial crisis put new strain on the business. The stress of the recession meant that for a moment, the shop, which then employed only four guides, might have to close its doors permanently. Forced to downsize the operation against his wishes, Canter was preparing himself for a major pivot – before a miraculous meeting in the shop. “It looked like Brookings wasn’t going to make it,” Canter said. “I’d already let employees go. I went three or four months without getting paid. “One day I’d just gotten off a bad phone call with ownership, and a customer walked into the shop wanting a $5 spool of tippet. I was frustrated and just said, ‘Man, get whatever you want today because I don’t think we’re going to be here next week.’ “That customer became my business partner… Life’s funny like that. He bought the business, moved the store to his property, and changed the whole direction of the shop — made it more of a real fly shop instead of a lifestyle store.” Over the next five years, Canter and his fishing financier transformed their business, and when presented with the opportunity to take on majority ownership, Canter made the bold choice to take the challenge on. Since then, Brookings Fly Shop has seen tremendous success. The shop now employs 26 fishing guides year-round. They’re able to guide on public rivers and exclusive patches of private water. Beyond Western North Carolina, they’ve been able lead groups on fantastic expeditions from the Bahamas to the Amazon Jungle to Canada to Patagonia. And here at home, they’re still at work to grow. Fishermen visiting Brookings Fly Shop to restock or catch up can now enjoy a drink at the Blue Line Bar they’ve erected inside, that’s quickly become a hotspot in town.
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Outdoors+Recreation Reelin’ in Appalachia WNC Fly Fishing Trail
A
ll of Western North Carolina is renowned for its fly fishing, and its reputation continues to grow. Jackson County developed the first official, mapped fly fishing trail, and that has been emulated by Swain County. And of course there are plenty of outfitters and guides ready to take visitors to the best fishing holes in the mountains. Below are the stops on Jackson County’s Fly Fishing Trail. Encompassing big rivers, small streams, easy access and backcountry hike-ins, the 15-spot trail was the first of its kind in the United States. For more information, click on flyfishingtrail.com.
bridge on Tanasee Creek Road (SR 1762) Type of Water: Wild Trout Available Fish: Brown Numbers or Size? Both Noteworthy: Very scenic stretch in the Nantahala National Forest Panthertown Creek The Stretch: Entire stream, roughly 3 miles Access Point(s): Parking and access at end of Breedlove Rd (SR 1121), with 2-mile walk to creek Type of Water: Catch and release single hook artificial lure Available Fish: Brook Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Located in Panthertown Valley, which is known as the “Yosemite of the East” because of its bowl shape and rocky bluffs
Scott Creek The Stretch: Roughly 10 miles from headwaters near Balsam down to Sylva Access Point(s): Parking and access available via several pull-off areas along U.S. 23/74 Type of Water: Hatchery supported Available Fish: Brown, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Stretch also includes North Fork Scott Creek and Buff Creek, which are very scenic Small Streams: Moses Creek, Mull Creek, Rough Butt Creek, Chastine Creek, Piney Mountain Creek The Stretch: Collection of small streams in eastern Jackson County, below Blue Ridge Parkway Access Point(s): Via Moses Creek Rd (SR 1740) and Caney Fork Rd (SR 1737), avoid posted land Type of Water: Wild Trout Available Fish: Brook, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Mountainous terrain, includes several large waterfalls Caney Fork The Stretch: Roughly 10 miles from East Laporte Park to headwaters at fork of Mull Creek and Piney Mountain Creek Access Point(s): Access via Caney Fork Road (SR 1737), avoid posted land Type of Water: Undesignated Available Fish: Rainbow, Brown, occasional Brook Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Respect private landowners Tanasee Creek The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from Tanasee Creek bridge up to headwaters Access Point(s): Parking and access available at
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Raven Fork The Stretch: Starts at Blue Ridge Parkway bridge near Cherokee and goes north for 2.2 miles Access Point(s): Parking and access via several pull-off areas along Big Cove Road; paths run along stream Type of Water: Catch and release fly fishing only Available Fish: Golden, Rainbow, Brown, Brook, Donaldson Numbers or Size? Both Noteworthy: This stretch is also called Cherokee Trophy Water and fish of 20-30 inches are common; Cherokee annual permit and daily permit required Whitewater River The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from N.C. 107 down to the South Carolina state line Access Point(s): Parking and access along N.C. 107, a few miles south of Cashiers Type of Water: Wild Trout Available Fish: Brook, Brown, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Flows into Whitewater Falls, the highest waterfall east of the Mississippi
Scotsman And Fowler Creeks Into Chattooga River The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles of each stream flowing down into the Chattooga River Access Point(s): Access available via Whiteside Cove Rd (SR 1107) or Bullpen Rd (SR 1100) in Nantahala National Forest Type of Water: Wild Trout with Natural Bait Available Fish: Brown, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Numbers (creeks), Size (Chattooga) Noteworthy: The film Deliverance was shot on the Chattooga River West Fork Tuckasegee River The Stretch: From small reservoir at Thorpe Power House upstream several hundred yards Access Point(s): Parking and access available both sides of N.C. 107 near Thorpe Power House Type of Water: Hatchery supported Available Fish: Brown, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Although hatchery supported, this has nice concentration of stream-raised fish Tuckasegee River (East Laporte Park to N.C. 107 Bridge) The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from park to bridge Access Point(s): Parking and access available at East Laporte Park and pull-off areas along Old Cullowhee Road Type of Water: Hatchery supported Available Fish: Rainbow, Brook, Brown Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: East Laporte Park has picnic tables and public restrooms Savannah Creek The Stretch: About 10 miles from headwaters in Pumpkintown into Tuckasegee River Access Point(s): Parking and access available via several pull-offs along U.S. 23/441 Type of Water: Hatchery supported Available Fish: Rainbow, Brown Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Access limited the closer you get to the Tuckasegee River Tuckasegee River (NC 107 Bridge to Dillsboro park) The Stretch: Roughly 4-5 mile stretch from bridge to the riverside park in Dillsboro Access Point(s): Parking and access available via numerous pull-offs along North River Road Type of Water: Delayed harvest Available Fish: Brook, Brown, Rainbow Numbers or Size? Both
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Big Snowbird Creek
Big Snowbird Creek in Graham County is known as one of the best fly fishing creeks in the region. Anglers can catch rainbows, browns, and brook trouts in various areas of the creek. It’s the “grand slam” of mountain fly fishing if you’re willing to make the trip. The hatchery section near the Junction, which is supported with stocked brown and rainbow trout. There are even some deep pools here where trout can get as big as 18-20 inches (the browns, at least). There are 12 miles of foot access between the headwaters and Junction, where you’ll find plenty of wild trout and about five miles of wide-open water that’s prime for rainbow trout. The large boulders ensure that runs are fast and pools are deep, giving rainbows the ideal opportunity to “hide” and giving you the opportunity to target them. (For more information contact the Graham County Tourism Development Authority at grahamcountytravel.com) Noteworthy: Best place to achieve the Tuckasegee Slam (catch all three species in one spot) Greens Creek The Stretch: About 3-4 miles from Macon County line to Savannah Creek Access Point(s): Various places along Greens Creek Road (SR 1370) Types of Water: Wild Trout, undesignated, hatchery supported Available Fish: Rainbow, some Brown Numbers or Size? Numbers Noteworthy: Portion of the creek flows through the Nantahala National Forest Tuckasegee River (in Dillsboro) The Stretch: About 1 mile from Dillsboro park through town Access Point(s): Various places between park and Best Western River Escape Inn Type of Water: Hatchery supported Available Fish: Rainbow, Brown Numbers or Size? Size Noteworthy: Includes two lodging options: Best Western River Escape Inn and Dillsboro Inn Lower Tuckasegee River (Barker’s Creek Bridge to Whittier) The Stretch: Roughly 8-10 miles from bridge to Whittier Access Point(s): Parking and access via pull-offs and businesses along U.S. 19/74 freeway Type of Water: Hatchery supported, undesignated Available Fish: Rainbow, Brown Numbers or Size? Size Noteworthy: The stretch is also home to smallmouth bass
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Outdoors+Recreation A palpable, spiritual place in nature Cades Cove
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rriving in Cades Cove, it’s hard not to be taken aback by the beauty of the place – lush meadows surrounded by the cool, green peaks of the Great Smoky Mountains. But Cades Cove, located near Townsend, Tennessee, is more than just its scenery, alluring as that may be. The place has a history, and one that is rather unique among National Park lands. Stephen Weber is president of the Cades Cove Preservation Association, and his roots there are as deep as anyone’s. “My mother’s family came from the cove,” Weber said. John Oliver (his great-greatgreat-grandfather) was among the very first settlers, arriving around 1821. “The history is what makes the cove special,” Weber said. The quickest way to take in Cades Cove, which is part of the Great Smoky Moun-
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tains National Park, is to drive (or bike) the 11-mile, one-way road that loops around the valley. Along the road is the Visitor Center, which features a number of exhibits and offers a good overview of the cove’s history and significance. While on the road, visitors will have ample opportunities for wildlife viewing, which Weber notes is an always-popular activity. Guests will also have access to riding stables and hiking trails, and opportunities to check out the numerous historical points of interest, such as old homesites – including John Oliver’s cabin – churches and cemeteries. And that access is a key point, because as convenient as the road is, to truly experience the cove, you’ll need to stop and get some soil under your feet. Once you do that, it might help to take a deep breath and close your eyes. Then, visualize what the Cove
was like 100, 125 years earlier. Weber can speak with authority on that. “By the time the park was created, there were probably 400-600 people living here – about 125 families,” he said. “There were schools, stores, churches. This was a very productive farming community – the land was very fertile.” Families grew enough for their own needs, and sold the surplus at markets in Maryville and Knoxville, Tennessee. “People were well off, even without running water,” he said. “By the late 1890s, six people had telephones. There was an exchange in Townsend.” Mostly, it was a tight-knit community. “People did work together,” Weber said. For example, sharing farm machinery was commonplace. One person with a particular piece of equipment would use it on his or
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her land and then help out another farmer who needed it. “Agreements were made with a handshake,” Weber said. Weber’s grandfather, John W. Oliver, witnessed firsthand the transformation of the cove from a farming community to becoming part of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
the option of signing lease agreements that allowed them to stay on their land, albeit with a number of restrictions (limits on hunting, trapping, timber harvesting etc.) put in place by the National Park Service. According to Weber, some residents had second thoughts after they sold their land. “Some never got over it,” he said. “They put the money they got into the banks, and
“He took the Civil Service exam in 1904, then was then the mail carrier for 34 years,” Weber said. “First he was on horseback, then he drove a Model T Ford.” By 1927, the states of North Carolina and Tennessee had begun buying land for what would become the park. Weber said the creation of the national park differed in that most of this land was held in private ownership, often by large lumber companies. Park land out west, on the other hand, was largely already owned by the federal government. By 1934, the cove had become part of the park. Landowners could sell their property to the government and move out, or take
then the banks failed (during the Great Depression). So they lost their money and their homes.” Life continued to change in the cove. According to the park service, the last school closed in 1944, and the post office shut its doors in 1947. The landscape began to change as well. “What you see now, as far as open land goes, is about one-third of what was cleared at the time. It didn’t take long for Mother Nature to reclaim it,” Weber said. “When the park took over, there were probably 450 structures in Cades Cove,” he said. “Some very nice homes and barns,
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along with schoolhouses and churches. What you see now is just a small fraction of what was there.” Some of the houses were used for a time as living quarters for the park rangers, he said. The group Weber leads, the Cades Cove Preservation Association, was formed in 2001 by former residents and their descendants with a specific mission in mind. “We thought the true story of Cades Cove wasn’t getting out,” Weber said. “We wanted to maintain the history and culture of Cades Cove.” The group has worked to restore and maintain the cemeteries in the cove, as well as the churches. Members clean the churches (which are high tourism traffic areas) once a week and annually give them a deep clean. The organization also operates a museum in Maryville, at 1004 E. Lamar Alexander Pkwy., that’s well worth a visit. The building that houses it is even historic – a two-story log structure dating to the 1790s. The museum is another way to get that story out there, Weber said, and it features close to 1,000 artifacts from Cades Cove. It also hosts events such as craft fairs and homeschool days for local students. “It’s interesting to see people come into the museum,” Weber said. “Some stay for 15 minutes and others will stay two hours.” Of course, the history of Cades Cove predates the European settlers who called the valley home for generations. According to the park service, the Cherokee used it as a hunting ground, seeking deer, elk and bear, all of which were abundant. It seems unlikely that the Cherokee had a large-scale settlement there, but they did maintain smaller camps used while hunting. The serenity you feel in Cades Cove is palpable, even spiritual in nature. The Cherokee no doubt felt it, as did the many families who lived there in its pre-national park days. It can be easy to lose oneself in such surroundings and imagine a less harried way of life. And there’s nothing wrong with that. — By Dan Sullivan
IF YOU GO nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/cadescove.htm cadescovepreservation.com
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Outdoors+Recreation Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Oconaluftee Visitor Center Along with knowledgeable rangers who can help you plan your time in the park, fabulous exhibits will take you back in time among the early settlers and Cherokee who called these mountains home. The visitor center chronicles the culture and history of the Smokies, from exhibits on the Civil War in the Smokies to moonshine making. Located on U.S. 441 at the North Carolina entrance to the park, north of Cherokee and near the terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway. 828.497.1904.
Mountain Farm Museum This stroll through an historic Appalachian farm offers a window on the ingenuity and self-reliance of early mountain people and Cherokee. A blacksmith shop to make everything from barn door hinges to horseshoes, a spring house to keep milk and butter cool, and sundry buildings for storing the food they raised, from corn cribs to apple houses to smoke houses. The outhouse is a guaranteed eye-opener for kids. Located at the entrance to the park on U.S. 441 just north of Cherokee.
Deep Creek
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he Great Smoky Mountains National Park has an amazing array of mini-ecosystems within its borders — from peaks over 6,000 feet to low valleys, from moist densely forested coves to dry meadows. A walk from mountain base to peak compares with traveling 1,250 miles north. Several resident plants and animals live only in the Smokies. The park has more than 100 species of
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trees and 4,000 species of plants. Some people say if you throw a rock and then trace its path, you’re likely to walk by at least 30 different kinds of trees. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park encompasses more than 500,00 acres, making it the largest national park in the East Here are a few of the highlights on the North Carolina side of the GSMNP.
Enjoy a little of everything at Deep Creek. Hiking to waterfalls, picnicking, mountain biking, camping and what Deep Creek is famous for: tubing. Several outfitters rent inner tubes for just a few dollars to float all day in the creek. This is a fantastic place to visit for a few hours because you can do so many different activities without having to go to different places. If you are in the Bryson City area, treat yourself to a visit.
Mingus Mill The rumble of mill stones, the whistle of corn meal sliding down the wooden shoot, the slap-slap-slap of water falling over the giant paddle wheel. Explore this historic site just one mile from the park entrance on U.S. 441 north of Cherokee.
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Kuwohi
(formerly known as Clingmans Dome A paved half-mile trail leads to a soaring lookout tower atop the highest peak in the Smokies. At 6,643 feet, the panoramic view offers spectacular scenery and is one of the best examples of the region’s famed blue mountain ridges marching endlessly across the horizon. The tower features a spiraling 375-foot ramp to the top.
Cataloochee Valley History and nature intersect in this picturesque meadow, a long, narrow valley cradled by mountains on all sides. An elk herd has been re-introduced into the park and calls the valley home. Cataloochee Valley is also home to a former mountain settlement, with intact farm houses, churches, schoolhouse and cemeteries that can be toured by car and short walks. Pick up an interpretive brochure at the campground on the left after you get down to the valley floor that describes the historic buildings.
Big Creek This relatively isolated area is a favorite of locals, with a campground, bathroom, picnic area and jumping off point for some great hikes into the Smokies, including the all-day hike up to Mount Cammerer look-out tower. One of the coldest, clearest swimming holes in the Smokies — aptly named Midnight Hole — is a short 1.5 mile hike up the wide Big Creek Trail.
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A view of one of the many tunnels along the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Outdoors+Recreation Blue Ridge Parkway serves up the best of the mountains
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he Blue Ridge Parkway is a National Parkway and All-American Road that winds for 469 miles from the southern end of Shenandoah National Park’s Skyline Drive in Virginia to U.S. 441 at Oconaluftee in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park near Cherokee. It’s hard to get lost on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It only goes in two directions — north or south. Short, wooden posts along the edge of the road mark off each mile — the entire 469-mile length of the Parkway — making it easy to know exactly where you are. The mile-marker is listed for the recommended stops on the Parkway below, and should be easy to find by watching the mileposts. Hint: the numbers get bigger as you go south, so the end of the Parkway in Cherokee is mile 469. The Parkway boasts more than 200 overlooks and more than 100 trails. The local
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section of the Parkway runs from the southern end in Oconaluftee to the Pisgah Inn on the Haywood, Transylvania County line. Along this stretch of scenic road you’ll find highlights such as the Parkway’s highest elevation overlook at Richland Balsam (6,053 feet), views of Cold Mountain made famous by author Charles Frazier, Waterrock Knob and Oconaluftee Visitors Centers, and Devil’s Courthouse Trail. The Parkway is made for exploring. Here are few suggested highlights in our region, but feel free to ignore them. It’s all about the journey, not the destination.
Waterrock Knob Visitors Center Mile-marker 451 A must for Parkway travelers. Stop here to get recommendations from park rangers
on things to do and see, plus pick up a free Parkway map and browse the bookstore. Views are fabulous if you are looking for a picnic spot. Also, there is a one-mile hike to the summit of Waterrock Knob. Interesting fact: the visitor center is powered by solar panels.
Richland Balsam Mile-marker 432
The views are great all along the Parkway, but there’s even a milestone achievement available for those don’t want to hike but prefer just getting out of their car to take a picture, enjoy the view, or have a picnic. Just about halfway between the Balsam Gap (U.S. 23-74) and N.C. 215 entrance to the Parkway, near milepost 432, is the Parkway’s highest point (6,053 feet), which is marked with a large sign and a great over-
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look. Just a mile away at milepost 431 is the Richland-Balsam Self-Guiding Trail, which is just one mile long and meanders through a spruce-fir forest. You’ll top out at an elevation of 6,410 feet, the 10th highest peak in the Eastern U.S.
Devil’s Courthouse Mile-marker 422
This one-mile round-trip trail leads to the top of stunning rock formation, a giant pedestal that seems to rise up magically from the mountains around it and makes you feel like you’re on top of the world looking out. Despite the sheer drop off all around you, rock walls provide a sense of safety — just don’t hop over them or let kids climb on the edge. Ecologically, visitors should stay off the cliff face, which is home to peregrine falcons and endangered rock-clinging lichens and plant life. The trail is steep but paved, making it accessible to anyone if you take it slow and steady.
Sam’s Knob Mile-marker 420 Stellar hiking trails lead into the Shining Rock Wilderness, passing over grassy balds, rock outcrops, high elevation streams and fir forests. The area is riddled with trails, some of which extend for miles into the Shining Rock Wilderness, so if you don’t have a map, watch the way you came carefully. To reach the parking area, turn down a gravel forest service road.
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A high-elevation bowl is home to two waterfalls, a swimming hole and crystal clear rocky stream. Unlike the dense forests that engulf most hiking trails in the Smokies, this area is defined by open meadows.
Mt. Pisgah (5,749 feet) Located near milepost 408, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (he’s the man who built Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous. Nearby campground and one of the only restaurants on the Parkway at the Pisgah Inn.
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Outdoors+Recreation Follow the water: Paddling and waterfall chasing in WNC tors before embarking on a trip. • Are you looking for a mild trip or a wild ride? • How long do you want to be on the river? • Are their any children in you party, and how much do they weigh? • How comfortable are the members of your party in the water should they take a fall out of the raft? These are questions you should have at least partially answered for before contacting a rafting company. Many of the raft companies operate their own lodging facilities, from campgrounds and rustic cabins by the river to luxury cabin rentals secluded in the woods. Expect $10 to $30 per person for rafting trips depending on the trip and how much is included, such as guided versus self-guided and what type of water craft you’re traveling in.
Rivers
Nantahala The Nantahala River in Swain and Macon counties has been called every man’s river. It is an eight-mile run of basically Class II rapids (19 of them) with Class III Nantahala Falls waiting at the end. There is a slalom course on the river at the Nantahala Outdoor Center as well as “the wave” for playboaters. It is a wonderful river for rafting and beginner kayakers. Several outfitters on the river allow raft rentals without guides, and they’ll also shuttle you to the put.in.
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rom mild to wild, paddlers can find whatever kind of river experience they’re looking for in the mountains of Western North Carolina. The area around Western North Carolina has earned a reputation as one of the premier whitewater regions in the country, for many reasons. In addition to rafting becoming one of the top activities sought by visitors to the area, the region has become a magnet for top kayakers and whitewater canoers. The Nantahala Outdoor Center located in the Nantahala Gorge south of Bryson City is the
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leader of the rafting and paddling industry in the region. The NOC is more than an outfitter and guide company but a support network for the many world.class paddlers — including members of current and past U.S. Olympic paddling team and the World Cup champions — that come here to train and live. Many of them work for NOC. The center hosts several top competitions each year that draws international paddlers. There are many other quality outfitters in the region offering an array of whitewater adventures for local and travelers. Recreational rafters should consider several fac-
Tuckasegee For beginners, tubers and those looking for a leisurely river trip, there is the Tuckasegee River in Jackson and Swain counties. There are five sections, almost 40 miles of navigable waterway from the tiny community of Tuckaseigee to Bryson City. The Tuck is great for family outings. Calmer water allows for a minimum weight requirement of 40 pounds. French Broad The French Broad River through Buncombe and Madison counties offers opportunities from flat water to waves for surfers to the class IV Frank Bell’s rapids. The most popular run on the French Broad is section nine from Barnard to Hot Springs. There is also a kayakers’ playground at the Ledges Park in Asheville.
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Chattooga The Chattooga River winds up in Lake Tugaloo. This scenic, free-flowing river offers a variety of whitewater experiences. Section II from N.C. 28 to Earl’s Ford is basically Class II with one Class III rapids, Bull Shoals. Section III begins at Earl’s Ford and runs 10 miles to U.S. 76. There are six rapids on this section ending with Bull Sluice, which is class IV or V depending on water level. Section IV is eight miles, from U.S. 76 to Lake Tugaloo. This section includes the difficult and potentially treacherous Woodall Shoals and finishes with “Five Falls;” First Falls, Corkscrew, Crack in the Rock, Jawbone and Sock’em Dog. Nolichucky One of the most scenic paddles in the region would be the Nolichucky. Born out of the confluence of the Toe and Cane rivers, the first few miles of the Nolichucky are full of big water and challenging rapids. The run from Poplar to Erwin, Tenn., is 8.5 miles of Class III and IV rapids, provided the river is up. The Nolichucky is not dam controlled and is dependent on rainfall. Pigeon The Pigeon has scheduled releases from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, with Class III and IV rapids. It has become a popular whitewater trip for paddlers and rafters in recent years, providing a shorter but exciting trip. A number of outfitters are located in Hartford, Tenn. Ocoee The Ocoee is the furthest west of the whitewater rivers, flowing through a beautiful gorge in east Tennessee. Rafters must be at least 12 years old to go on either the upper or lower Ocoee, and it has Class III and IV rapids for the entire ride. Cheoah The Cheoah River is located in the extreme southwestern corner of the state, near Robbinsville and is one of the hidden whitewater gems in the region. Whitewater releases on the Cheoah began in the fall of 2005 and there are nine miles of almost continuous Class IV and V+ rapids.
Waterfalls
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aterfalls have long had an almost spiritual appeal among humans. Whether one is an avid outdoorsman or an occasional hiker, there is something special about making a gorgeous waterfall the destination for a hike. Among the Cherokee Indians, rivers were known as “The Long Man” and special ceremonies were often held at waterfalls. There are hundreds of waterfalls in Western North Carolina, and we’ve compiled a fairly extensive list and an interactive map
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on our newspaper website smokymountainnews.com (navigate to the Outdoors section and you’ll find it). The following waterfalls are just a few of the more popular falls in the region. Dry Falls Dry Falls is one of the most popular waterfalls in Western North Carolina and an easy stop if you are seeing the other falls on U.S. 64 through the Cullasaja Gorge. Visitors can walk behind the falls and to the other side. The powerful waterfall is about 65 feet tall. Dry Falls is in between Quarry Falls and Bridal Veil Falls about three miles west of Highlands on U.S. 64. There’s a small parking area on the left if you are headed west. Signs mark the falls on both sides of the road. If you come on a Saturday during peak tourist season, a parking space will be hard to come by. The trail to the falls is short with some steps. Cullasaja Falls Cullasaja Falls is the final waterfall on the Cullasaja River before leaving the Gorge. The falls, a 200-foot cascade, is powerful and beautiful. You can get a good view of it from the road, but it would be a hike to get to the base, and I haven’t seen any trails that lead down to it. The downside to Cullasaja Falls is that the pull off is small and is a dangerous place for traffic to stop. Cullasaja Falls is about two and a half miles west of Quarry Falls on U.S. 64. The pull off is small and at a sharp curve. The small pull off fills up quickly during peak tourism days. You might have to drive past it a few times before you can get a spot. Heading west, the pull off is on the left side of the road. You might want to drive past it, turn around and approach it from the eastbound side of the highway. Mingo Falls On the Qualla Indian Reservation in Cherokee, you’ll find the popular Mingo Falls. A small creek falls about 150 feet over mossy rocks. Access to the falls is good – if you can handle lots of steps. A small bridge goes across the creek, giving hikers a face on view of the falls. People often climb around the bridge and on the rocks in front of the falls. Some of the rocks are very slippery, so be very careful if you choose to stray from the bridge. Coming from Cherokee, head north on U.S. 441. You’ll turn right onto Acquoni Road. There will be signs telling you to turn there for Big Cove Road. In about .1 mile, turn left on to Big Cove Road. Again you’ll see signs pointing to Big Cove Road. Drive about 5 miles and turn right into Mingo Falls Campground. The parking area is straight ahead. The trail starts there, goes up a lot of stairs, levels out and comes to a bridge overlooking the falls. The trail is about 265 yards. Soco Falls Soco Falls is one of the closest large falls to Waynesville. Two creeks flow over steep rock cascades at a right angle from each other. There’s a
wooden platform that faces the higher of the two falls. The other falls is nearly impossible to see face on without going down to the base of the falls. There’s a really steep dirt incline that goes down there without a lot to hold on to. I’ve never gotten the guts to slide down – especially with my camera. From Waynesville, drive north on U.S. 19. You’ll pass under the Blue Ridge Parkway. After passing the Blue Ridge Parkway, drive 1.4 miles to a pull off on the left. At the corner before the pull off you want, you’ll see a large gravel pull off. This is actually a private driveway and not the way to Soco Falls. A sign on the right side of the road will tell you to go another half mile. You want a pull off with a guardrail. A short, steep path goes down between the guardrails. Follow the trail, which leads to a wooden platform. The trail beyond the platform is steeper and more difficult but will take you to the top of one of the falls. A dirt incline leads to the bottom of the falls that you’d have to slide down. It looks like it would be a challenge to get back up. Midnight Hole There’s not much of a waterfall at Midnight Hole, but if you’re looking for a good place to jump in the water, this is it. Midnight Hole is very popular and crowded at times. There’s a rope that goes up one of the boulders so swimmers can jump off the rocks into the pool. The water is cold and crystal clear and feels wonderful after the hike on a hot, muggy afternoon. Take I-40 Exit 451 in Tennessee. It will be the first exit after you cross the state line. Stay left after crossing the Pigeon River and follow the road 2 miles. You’ll drive by a power plant and community park. You’ll come to a stop sign at an intersection. To your right there will be a small hut with signs for honey, jam and fresh lemonade. Go straight through the intersection and enter the Big Creek section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles to a picnic area and campground entrance. From the parking area, walk back up the road. You’ll see a sign on the left for the trailhead. The hike to Midnight Hole is about 1.5 miles. Stay on the main path and the hole is on the left. The hike is easy. I even saw a family pushing a stroller up the trail, although they seemed to have a little trouble with some of the slightly rocky parts. Horses and their riders also frequent the trail. Waterfall on West Fork Pigeon River The waterfall on West Fork Pigeon River runs under an old stone bridge on N.C. 215. Although this waterfall isn’t one to plan a trip around, if you’re driving to the other falls on N.C. 215, it’s worth a stop. You can take shots from the road and the bridge but watch out for traffic. I tried to hike down to the base of the falls and failed miserably. I wouldn’t recommend trying it. The waterfall is under a bridge on N.C. 215, 4.2 miles from where N.C. 215 crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s 13.6 miles south of where N.C. 215 intersects with U.S. 276.
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Outdoors+Recreation Hit the dirt: The best mountain bike trails in WNC
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his is one of the fastest growing recreational activities in the Smokies, one easily witnessed by all the vehicles with mountain bikes strapped to the back or top. Pretty straightforward as to why so may partake of this sport: the Smokies contain some of the best bike trails anywhere. Here are the popular spots:
Cherokee’s Fire Mountain Trails Twelve-mile system with wide variety of terrain from beginners to relatively serious downhill sections. This is one of the best-maintained trail systems in the Smokies region. Trailhead is in downtown Cherokee at the Oconaluftee Indian Village.
Chestnut Mountain Located just east of Canton, this mountain biking skills course includes a Berm Park and a 0.6-mile hiking/biking trail that climbs 350 feet to connect the gateway and pedestrian bridge to the park’s main trailhead. While hikers and bikers will use the same path to ascend the mountain, a dedicated descent trail for bikers aims to prevent conflicts and accidents. Berm Park includes jumps, ramps and all kinds of terrain to test one’s skills.
Tsali Recreation Area This is the granddaddy of Western North Carolina mountain biking, boasting 40 miles of trails on four loops. Rated as one of top 10 places to ride in the U.S. Fast, hard-packed singletrack, and you can’t go wrong with any of the loops. Off N.C. 28 past Bryson City, or if coming from Robbinsville N.C. 143 until you reach N.C. 28, go east. Entrance on north side of N.C. 28, well-marked.
Santeetlah Lake Trail A 15-mile trail open to mountain bikes, horses, and hikers. The trail follows a number of open and gated Forest Service roads
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with a short portion of single-track. Large sections of the trail hug the shoreline of Lake Santeetlah offering beautiful views. The primary trailhead is located at the intersection of N.C. 143 (NC1127) and Snowbird Road.
Jackrabbit Mountain Located next to the huge Jackrabbit Campground at Lake Chatuge, this 14-mile trail system is gaining popularity fast. Mostly flat with rolling dips and berms and just a few technical areas. At Lake Chatuge get on N.C. 175, turn onto Jackrabbit Road, signed parking area on left.
Western Carolina University Trail More than 7 miles of singletrack across the street from main WCU campus in Cullowhee. The trail system has two trailheads. One is located near the softball field and picnic area on WCU main campus, east of N.C.107. Trail users then travel through the pedestrian tunnel under N.C. 107 and access the trail on NCCAT property. The second trailhead is located at the parking lot of the Health and Human Sciences building.
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Bent Creek Asheville Located near where N.C. 191 intersects the Blue Ridge Parkway and I-26, this favorite among Asheville locals because of its proximity to this outdoors-loving city. Lots of hardpacked singletrack with very few technical sections, great place for beginner to intermediate riders and for children. mtbikewnc.com
Dupont State Park Brevard Located near Brevard, this has become one of the premier destinations in the region. 10,000 acres of trails, waterfalls, and rivers. Great spot with numerous trailheads. dupontforest.com
Pisgah National Forest Brevard Hundreds of miles of trails for bikers, some of it among the most technical in the region. For information on specific trails and trailheads, visit mtbikewnc.com
Nantahala Outdoor Center Bryson City The Nantahala Outdoor Center in the Nantahala Gorge has its own trail, which allows riders to try their hand at some technical maneuvering. The 4.5-mile Flint Ridge Trail system was designed specifically for mountain bikers. It features technical riding as well as some rolling single-track. Directions: From Bryson City, go south on U.S. 74 for 12 miles and the NOC campus will be on the right. noc.com/noccom/adventures/biking/ mountain-biking
Fontana Village Robbinsville Fontana Village’s trails are labeled and fairly well blazed. Mix and match from numerous options to make your own loop. You can get a good bit of climbing and long descents, plus technical rock gardens, stream crossings and log crossings on the 20-mile trail system. Directions: From Bryson City, take U.S. 74 southbound 8 miles past Bryson City. Turn right on N.C. 28. Go about 25 miles. fontanavillage.com/hiking
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Outdoors+Recreation Coming down the mountain Assault on BlackRock trail race turns 15
W
ith a deceptively simple slogan of “Run Walk Crawl,” the annual Assault on BlackRock trail race in Sylva is more than meets the eye. In truth, the slogan should read “Arduous Rough Grueling.” You can also add the words “glorious” and “gratitude” to all of the above, seeing as when one completes the course, a deep sense of self and of fellowship soon emerges. “The experience is definitely a Type 2 type of fun, at least for the first half of the race, but most people would say for the entire race,” said Brian Barwatt, AOBR founder/ race director. “The best comparison I can think of when completing this race would be like competing on the TV show ‘Hot Ones’ — almost everyone dreads it but are stoked to have completed it.”
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With around 2,800 feet of elevation gain in the first half and 2,800 feet of elevation loss in the second half, the seven-mile out and back — including 650 feet of elevation gain in the final one-third of a mile climb to the summit of BlackRock — has become a thing of legend within running communi-
ties in Western North Carolina and greater Southern Appalachia. “I try not to sugarcoat the experience of the race. I tell people that it will suck, but you will be glad you did it when it’s over,” Barwatt said. “The one piece of advice I will give to non-elite runners is to power walk the first two miles. From my experience, you can move faster versus trying to run it.” Created in 2011, the AOBR starts at the trailhead gate in Sylva’s Pinnacle Park. It immediately begins with a steep climb towards the main bulk of the race, the rugged route winding through a spruce forest toward the summit of BlackRock (elevation: 5,810 feet). At the top, a race official marks your bib and you begin the descent back down to the gate. Everything in-between? A whole range of emotions — excitement to frustration, despair to euphoria. “I honestly enjoy seeing people finish the race looking like they almost died, and a little blood makes me smile, too,” Barwatt said. “But, the amount of talent that we have locally has blown me away.” In full disclosure, I’ve run and completed the AOBR twice. At age 41, I’ve been a consistent and passionate runner since I was 12. A highly-competitive athlete through middle/high school, I even ran D-1 track and field. Hundreds of races on the track and in the woods, not to mention all of the trail running and hiking I’ve done from coast-tocoast. And yet, amid all of that experience and endurance, the AOBR remains the craziest race I’ve ever done.
Ready to run? The annual Assault on BlackRock trail run will take place Saturday, March 27, 2027, at Pinnacle Park, located at 2110 Fisher Creek Road in Sylva. The race is a seven-mile out-and-back (total) trek with 2,770 feet of elevation gain throughout the route. Proceeds from the race will go to the Sylva Art & Design Committee, an organization with a focus on bringing more art (outdoor murals) to downtown Sylva. To register, go to ultrasignup.com and search “Assault on BlackRock.” For more information, call 828.506.2802 or email barwatt@hotmail.com. You can also go to Facebook and search “Assault on BlackRock.”
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As it stands, the course record is “slowly getting closer and closer to one hour,” with the current record owned by Asheville’s Will Keller, who posted a time of 01:04:59 in 2025. Barwatt is offering a cash reward of $400 to whoever breaks the one-hour mark, with the pot growing by $100 each year until the achievement happens. The women’s course record is 01:25:33, set by Leah Nicholson in 2019. “Once the race starts, I have about an hour to relax before the organized chaos begins,” Barwatt said. “Once the runners start crossing the finish line, there’s about a two-hour time period where I probably look like a chicken with its head cut off running around trying to keep times, present awards and make sure there’s food and drinks available for everyone.” For Barwatt, AOBR is also an opportunity to help his neighbors. Each year, proceeds from the race go to local nonprofits. To date, “the race has raised over $44,000 for 11 different nonprofit organizations in Sylva.” “I look at it as my yearly contribution to giving back to the community,” Barwatt said. “None of this would be possible though, without the help from my many sponsors, friends, wife and volunteers who have helped me put it on every year.” Celebrating 15 years in 2026, the AOBR has evolved from this crazy idea for a trail race into this immediate bond between those who tackle it each March. For Barwatt, it’s surreal to see how much the race has taken on a life and lore of its own — this journey of the heart and soul, all done one step at a time. “Honestly, the growth of the race has baffled me. For the first few years, I was averaging 60-70 people, and now I’m averaging probably twice that,” Barwatt said. “I spend about $25 per year on advertising on Facebook and that’s it. I like to think that this race has slowly grown over the years by word of mouth. That’s the way I would prefer the most, because then it will have a stronger foundation each year in my opinion.” “When I started this race, I didn’t even know if runners would want to compete in it. I also thought that they might ridicule the race for being too extreme,” Barwatt admits. “I was totally wrong, I’ve had many runners come back year after year, and people are now putting down times that I would have thought were impossible 15 years ago.”
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2026
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Outdoors+Recreation Trails worth traveling: WNC hikes for every explorer look just isn’t worth the type of injuries that may occur. The trailhead is located approximately 10 miles east of Cashiers.
Boogerman Trail This 3.8 mile loop hike in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park takes you past old growth hemlocks and Robert “Booger” Palmer’s home place (hence the name). There’s plenty of creek views and wildflowers. Nealry a mile in, you’ll see a sign for Boogerman Trail. To avoid a relentless and steep climb, continue further up Caldwell Fork Trail and take the upper loop of Boogerman Trail. The hike begins near the Cataloochee campground.
Wayah Bald Located near Franklin in Macon County, this paved trail suitable for the handicapped leads to the Wayah Bald lookout tower, which is a National Historic Landmark offering breathtaking, panoramic views of the area. The Appalachian Trail and Bartram Trail intersect at the tower.
H
iking is one of the best ways to get out and commune with nature. With a quiet step you stand a great chance of seeing some of the multitude of wildlife Western North Carolina has to offer. There are hikes for all kinds — climbs along the rocks to a high mountain waterfalls, casual strolls to expansive mountain views, all-day treks out into the wilderness and brisk jaunts to perfect picnic places. Wherever you go, trying making part of your hike a “soft walk.” Tread quietly and use your senses to experience the world around you without talking. If you see something worth pointing out, communicate without speech. The process will help you tune in to nature and how it communicates with us. When hiking, you know best what you’re looking for and what you’re capable of — injuries happen when you take on too much or get too tired. Find a hike that suits your tastes and skills.
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Easy
Panthertown Valley Panthertown Valley is a 6,700-acre area in the Nantahala National Forest. It’s been nicknamed “the Yosemite of the East” and is home to granite domes, waterfalls, valley floors and rare high altitude bogs, as well as the headwaters for Greenland and Panthertown Creeks and the East Fork of the Tuckasegee River. Trails abound and primitive overnight camping and catch-andrelease fishing is allowed.
Horsepasture River Trail This out and back three-mile hike in Sapphire offers outstanding view of four large waterfalls and good camping along the way. The trail can be a little gnarly. Use extreme caution when viewing waterfalls, particularly Rainbow Falls, which can be viewed from the top. Falls are slippery and that closer
Joyce Kilmer Memorial Trail Joyce Kilmer Forest, the last remnant of virgin forest in the Southern Appalachians, offers a spectacular 2-mile loop trail. Near Robbinsville.
Medium Hemphill Bald The Loop hike at Hemphill Bald is 13.7 miles in total, but just 4.7 miles in will get you to the Bald. The bald was named after a pioneer family.
Tsali Recreation Area Located in Graham County the Tsali Recreation Area is known for its excellent trails. Hikers, bikers and horses all must share, but a bike/horse usage schedule keeps down the melee. Hikers may use any trail at any time. The Thompson Loop and Mouse
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Branch Looop are billed as easy to moderate and good for families.
Looking Glass Rock This 6-mile hike through the Pisgah National Forest travels first through small cove, then steeply up the backside of Looking Glass Rock through many switchbacks, hardwood forests, Carolina hemlocks. At the top of the trail there are cliffs providing views of Pisgah Ridge from Mt. Pisgah toward the Shining Rock/Black Balsam Area and the valleys below.
Hard Shining Rock Wilderness Area Shining Rock became one of the original components of the Wilderness System in September 1964. A series of high ridges extends east and west from the north-south oriented Shining Rock Ledge. There are three main access points for trails within this Wilderness. First and foremost is the Black Balsam area near the Blue Ridge Parkway. Although this is not part of the Wilderness itself, The Art Loeb (moderate) and Ivestor Gap (easy) trails lead into the wilderness area from here.
Mount Sterling Gap Trail This low ridge trail begins at Mt. Sterling Gap on Cataloochee-Big Creek Road. It’s only 2.8 miles to the firetower, but is rated extremely strenuous because of a 2,000foot climb in 2.3 miles along an old jeep trail to the ridge just below the firetower. This firetower is one of three remaining in the Park. There are several excellent lookouts from the trail prior to reaching the main ridge, but the view from the tower is unequalled in the Park.
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This 30-mile hike along the Appalachian Trails is full of ups and downs. There are shelters along the way, and in the end you’ll find yourself at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. Or do the hike in reverse and end at Fontana Dam. To learn more about the Appalachian Trail visit appalachiantrail.org. (Some hike recommendations courtesy of Danny Bernstein, author of “Hiking the Carolina Mountains.”)
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