Wine

Every year on the weekend before Easter is the Toques et Clochers festival in and around the bohemian city of Limoux, one of the finest, yet most understated wine growing regions in France.

The two-day charitable gastronomy festival celebrates Chardonnay production in the Limoux wine appellation.

Each year a different village in the appellation is chosen to host the festival and the money raised is used to restore the church in that village.

Punters rock up, pay five euros

STOP BY ANNE DE Joyeuse’s shop in Limoux to sample all sorts of fabulous local grape produce but do make sure you leave with a bottle of two of La Butiniere, the vineyard’s top Chardonnay - it’s heavy, thick with a mineral style and soft notes of honey and delicate vanilla.

and are handed a plastic wine glass and proceed to wander around a beautiful medieval village where art exhibitions, live music mingle with a number of wine stops to try this year’s Chardonnay output.

Limoux’s chalky territory makes its Chardonnays exceptional. The vines, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, are among the oldest in the south of France and produce wellrounded, full-bodied whites.

Limoux itself is worth a weekend away. Located just to the south of the magnificent walled city of Carcassonne, Limoux is quite an

To the north of the city, seek out Maison Antech for its unparalleled array of sparkling wines. A tasting of all of them is a must. Pure Emotion is a particular favourite - an incredibly dry, delightfully light pink featuring Chardonnay, Chenin, Mauzac and Pinot Noir with subtle hints of wild strawberry. Serve super cold and you might find that champagne will be a disappointment henceforth. ●

artist’s commune with a lovely river running through it. The little city is easy to get around and sample the many wine houses dotted in the area.

Stay at the Hotel des Arcades, and ask for one of the rooms in the annex, they’re essentially apartments, located just off the main square.

Historically this region has been better known for its sparkling wines, which are produced and sold under the Blanquette de Limoux and Crémant de Limoux appellation titles. Records suggest that the world’s first sparkling wine was produced in this region in 1531, by the monks at the abbey in nearby Saint-Hilaire. What is it with monks and their penchant for producing alcohol?

For my money, the bubbles produced in Limoux, which tend to feature the Mauzac grape, are far superior to any champagne (and considerably cheaper). A typical Limoux sparkling wine is very dry and crisp and serves as a super aperitif or to go alongside seafood.

Travel restrictions aside, I hope to see you in Limoux just ahead of next Easter. ●