Living in Singapore Magazine - October/November 2022

October/November 2022

The Magnificent Thian Hock Keng Temple Singapore's Oldest Temple Still Stands

History of the Botanic Gardens

New Icons of SG

Plus the living heritage of the gardens

And the loss of the old icons

US-SG Bilateral Relations The ups and downs over the years

America's First Home in SG Find out where the US ambassador first stayed

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who we are EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief: Susan Williams communications@aasingapore.com

In a country as young and modern as Singapore, it can be easy to overlook the vast history our city-state holds.

Publishing Editor: Melinda Murphy generalmanager@aasingapore.com LAYOUT Graphic Designer: Susan Williams graphics@aasingapore.com

This issue is all about history. You'll get to know about the Association's 105year history, as well as the history of the iconic Singapore Botanic Gardens.

We'll also learn about the oldest temple in Singapore, Thiang Hock Keng temple.

For the politically-minded, we have a conversation with former Singapore Ambassador to the United States, Tommy Koh, and hear about the ups and downs of diplomatic relations between the two countries.

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager: Thila Chandra thila@aasingapore.com

Coming up soon, we'll be joining forces with the American Women's Association and XCL American Academy to host a Thanksgiving family picnic in November.

It'll have fun, games, crafts, and of course, a full Thanksgiving dinner.

Treasurer: Ashok Lalwani

We're also excited to be able to bring back the George Washington Ball. It's been a few years since we've been able to hold it, and we can't wait to get dressed up and party! So mark your calendars and save the date – February 4, 2023.

The American Club: Neetu Mirchandani

Keep an eye out for the next Ambassador's Cup Golf Tournament, too. We're busy planning our big events as we get back to a more normal postCovid world.

COLUMNIST Andrea McKenna Brankin CONTRIBUTORS Andrea McKenna Brankin, Asif R. Chowdhury, Cara D'Avanzo, Jack Davis, Richard Hartung, Mia McDonald, Melinda Murphy, Lily Ong, Luke Plein, Meg Farrell Sine, Glenn van Zutphen, Susan Williams, Emily Xu AMERICAN ASSOCIATION BOARD MEMBERS President: Blair Hall Vice President: Michael Johnsen Directors-at-Large: Mkulima Britt, Dana Hvide, Aaron Kim, Daniel Moss, Naureen Rasul, Jennifer Yarbrough AmCham: Dr. Hsien-Hsien Lei AWA: Linda Schindler SACAC: Jeff Majestic SAS: Kyle Aldous Non-Voting Members US Embassy: Brian Himmelsteib US Navy COMLOG WESTPAC: Rear Admiral Mark Melson AAS: Melinda Murphy PUBLISHER – AMERICAN ASSOCIATION The American Association of Singapore (AAS) is a professional, notfor-profit organization established to enhance the well-being and living experience of Americans residing in Singapore and to promote relationships, both business and social, between Americans and those from different cultures and nationalities.

56A Boat Quay, Singapore 049845 • (+65) 8030 6183 admin@aasingapore.com • www.aasingapore.com Living In Singapore magazine will be released six times per year, with the purpose of enhancing the expatriate experience in Singapore.

SUBSCRIPTION

Editor-in-Chief

Susan Williams

A subscription to Living in Singapore is complementary with an AAS or CareerSource membership. AAS annual family membership is $120. CareerSource membership is $220.

To join, visit www.aasingapore.com and have Living in Singapore magazine delivered to your inbox. Reproduction in any manner, in English or any other language, is prohibited without written permission. Living in Singapore welcomes all contributions of volunteer time or written material.

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what’s in...

10 Community News 32 The History and Living Heritage of the Botanic

Gardens

Get to know a little more about the Little Red Dot.

32

34 America's First Home in Singapore What to do once you've settled in.

36 The New Icons of SG and the Loss of

the Old

A primer on the arts and culture scene in Singapore.

39 The Magnificent Thian Hock

Keng Temple

Formula One returns to Singapore.

44 Historical Ebbs

& Flows of US-SG Bilateral Relations Find out which countries in Asia require a visa.

34

36 39

44

message from the general manager

By Melinda Murphy Hot diggity dog! Life is returning to normal again! Snoopy dance!

For AAS, that means we are busy planning our calendar. We’ve pulled together some cool, smaller events (magic and wine anyone?) as well as some great networking opportunities such as coffees and happy hours. Don’t forget that your AAS membership now includes access to CareerSource events. Yay! I’ve tried to pop into as many of these events as possible. It’s been a delight getting to meet our members eyeball-to-eyeball, many who are new to Singapore. What a cool bunch we are! I really have enjoyed chatting with each and every one and hearing everybody’s life stories.

I’m really pumped about bringing back our marquee events in the coming months. Thanksgiving Family Celebration, Toys for Tots, George Washington Ball and the Ambassador’s Cup Golf Tournament are all on the horizon. And yes, we’ll be back at SAS for this year’s 4th of July bash. There’s not much cooler than seeing all our members celebrating our fabulous American traditions.

We’ve also started work this month on the next edition of Living in Singapore Reference Guide, due out in May. Good gosh! What a history AAS has: 87 George Washington Balls, 16 editions of the reference guide, 74 golf tourneys … and so much more. How proud I am to lead this 105-year-old organization!

I’m absolutely tickled pink about the coming months. And a word to the wise: we expect all of these big events to sell out quickly so buy yours as soon as they go on sale. Fun awaits!

American Community Organizations Directory AAS aasingapore.com

AWA awasingapore.org

SAS sas.edu.sg

The American Club amclub.org.sg

AmCham amcham.com.sg

Navy League nlus-sgp.org

SAIS sais.edu.sg

US Embassy sg.usembassy.gov

American Dragons americandragons.sg

SACAC Sports safl.sacac.com

Scouts BSA Troop 07: www.bsatroop07.org BSA Troop 10: www.sgtroop10.org BSA Troop 1010: sgtroop1010@gmail.com

6 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

Cub Scouts Pack 3010: www.sgpack3010.org Cub Scouts Pack 3017: cubscoutsusa.com.sg USA Girl Scouts: www.singaporeusagirlscouts.org

member benefits Banyan Tree Bintan 15% off best available rates. Valid through 12/31/22.

Core Holistic Nutrition Get 10% off the initial consultation rate. WhatsApp: +65 8789 9064. contact@coreholisticnutrition.com.

Valid through 11/30/2022.

Estheclinic 10% discount for all their treatments. Valid through 12/30/22.

Expat Living magazine Free six-month subscription. Valid through 12/30/22.

Hard Rock Cafe 15% discount on food and beverage upon showing a screenshot of your membership. Valid through 12/30/22.

Hedgers Carpet Free high-quality underlayment with every purchase at our store (while stocks last). Valid through 12/30/22.

Motorist 15% off car insurance quotes. Valid through 11/30/22.

Poke Theory AAS members get a 10% discount.

Flash your membership profile to the friendly staff to redeem this perk! Exclusively at Katong Square #01-12. Valid through 12/31/22.

Raffles Hotel 15% discount at Raffles Spa Mon-Fri; 15% off regular-priced items at Raffles Boutique & Floral Boutique; 15% off total bill at Raffles restaurants. Blackout dates apply.

The Counselling Place AAS members enjoy 10% discount for their first session. Apply code "AAS" in the coupon section when making the booking to receive the discount. Valid through 12/31/22.

Laguna Golf Bintan 25% off visitor rates. Valid through 12/31/22.

The Residence Bintan AAS members get 15% off Best Available Rate, 10% off Recreational Activities, 10% off Spa Treatments.

Valid through 12/31/2022.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib 15% discount for à la carte food bill for dine-in only. Blackout dates apply.

Solescape AAS members enjoy 15% discount on their purchase of a pair of shoes.

Valid through 12/31/22.

Mr. Jeff Free pick up & delivery for Buona Vista/Pasir Panjang area; 20% discount using code AAS20. Valid through 12/30/22.

Sunbird Brewing Company AAS members enjoy 15% off with promo code AAS on web orders.

Valid through 12/31/2022.

Marriott AAS members enjoy a 25% discount on F&B. Show a screenshot of your membership.

The American Club AAS members may order dinner from The American Club.

Scan or click here for our full member benefits page and more details on each benefit.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 7

American Association Sister Organizations Click Through to Find Out What’s Planned at AAS and at Our Sister Orgs

American Association of Singapore AmCham

American Women’s Association Navy League

SAFL The American Club US Embassy

upcoming events Monthly Happy Hour with AAS Oct 7, 4:00 – 6:00 PM NFL with AAS – Giants vs.

Packers Oct 9, 9:30 PM Metworks Oct 13, 7:00 – 9:00 PM

Deepavali in Little India Oct 15, 4:00 – 7:00 PM (Young) Professionals & Newbies Happy Hour Oct 20, 6:30 – 8:30 PM

A Night of Magic, Wine and Cheese Oct 27, 7:30 – 9:00 PM AAS at ACRES Oct 29, 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM

Freelancers, Thanksgiving Family Picnic Entrepreneurs & Small Nov 20, 4:00 – 6:00 PM Business Coffee Oct 26, 10:00 AM – 12:00 PM

AAS Strategic Partners We would like to extend our thanks to our strategic partners at the Association for their continued support and contribution.

Patriot Partners

Stars & Stripes Partners

Community Partner

8 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

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We are so happy to return to this annual event!

On September 3, AAS, XCL World Academy, and XCL American Academy had a fabulous time at our welcome back celebration! We welcomed families new to the schools, new to Singapore, new to AAS as well as long-timers who came out for the fun. Lawn games kept both kids and adults busy. A bouncy house let kids burn off some of the sugar from the cotton candy, and a photo

10 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

booth sponsored by SmileFocus let everyone take the memories home with them. Smokey's BBQ kept us fed, and Creative Eateries provided lucky draw prizes. The Dance Sport Academy taught us how to square dance, and we were treated to a gorgeous sunset at night's end.

We hope you join us next year!

For additional photos, click here.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 11

12 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 13

n o i t c A n i p i h s r e d Scouts BSA: LeBay Luke Plein, BSA Troop 10

as a ity to grow e opportun th s a ility w g n n Scouti f respo sib positions o attracted to t s n a re w fe I if s d n nt scope reaso up 17 ith a differe ity to take One of the w n u s e rt o m p o p c o n e ositio eir uts have th ey. Each p couts in th leader. Sco re to aid S outing journ c su S o ir p e x e th l f ningfu the day-to urse o s give mea managing n over the co y o b ti p si o o o p tr ll r ta onsible rve ou ement, bu who is resp we can se r , e le p st a and requir m a m x b e e t. For as a W I am evelopmen ol Leader; le – where personal d Senior Patr a s a p y current ro o o m tr – e n a th ri activities, f o to s, ss meeting or, as His p te o o si day busine b tr e m w o s fr oop’s g memorie ining the tr d chroniclin for mainta n a g n ti n e for docum responsible ed along ve progress a h s.

I ie s n a o t, m n . porta and cere run a Troop oop are im required to ys in the tr la ip p h t rs u e o d c 0 a S e le 1,70 les each preciate th more than While the ro come to ap lessed with b ve a re h I a e y, e W be led by g journ t exist. rtunate to g could no my Scoutin n fo ti u re o a c e S , w , rs oop ls of rent leade n. In our tr varying leve Without pa r East Regio who have a F rs e e ngs, st th a in tm oop meeti nteers nt Scou parent volu in weekly tr ral Assista jo ve y se e h d T n . a e ir tim tivated outmaster us with the us stay mo ro lp e e n an adult Sc h e g d n ry a ngs, re ve – , but who a t camp outi n achieve a scout ca experience volunteer a k s, n e ra g d st a e b h t the hig children. rn our meri with their le Scouts – e g c a n E help us ea e ri re e a p x rs ge ade the Scoutin d. Some le and focuse ant to share w o h w l. ts gfu are paren ting meanin and others on make Scou to d e ir er working u q are re Scoutmast 0 1 p o o All of them Tr s he would nd the list of thing h my dad a it a w d a y a h d r n e u g an utmast spent a S time helpin re the Sco Recently, I d to spend nts. I am su e re e m the ff e o ir u e q h nk re y, but pole which my Scout ra on a Sunda keshift flag a ily m m a r fa fo is h y e wa andle oing with properly h red to mak rather be d mony and y was clea n re o e c lc a g b a fl e h a alf-hitches, out. T onduct knot, two h aspiring Sc e how to c re a m u w sq o a sh e cing each en to ti er used to rope practi ow and wh e h th Scoutmast e h m it t w h g d tau – mble an flag. He ith his son ntly as I fu the Americ ing time w e sat patie d H n . e h c sp it h n e e day, he have b and a clove n that Sun . He could O n . o a bowline, ’t ti n ra id d st u e ed fr but h ot by ever show le Scout – dication, n knot. He n me an Eag ent, and de o c m e it b m to m o g c hip, that day. lso aspirin cus, leaders taught me fo e f h who was a o t a e h c n w a y port and b ted the im de for me are demonstra fice he ma ri c sa e selflessly sh th aders who id, but by le sa lt e u h d a t a e it h w d spir r all th dership an ratitude fo out this lea share my g h it ld u W o . w w ro ts cou us g would my I think all S and to help t exist, nor g o n n ti ld u u o c o S w uting to promote as I grow. cceed; Sco their time se leaders ould not su e w th ts te u o la c u S m ring, d to e of voluntee couting an y best in S m o d to enthusiasm p 10. an for Troo the Histori d n a t u o c tar S Luke is a S

The History of Girl Scouts Courtesy of Girl Scouts of the USA Blazing trails and redefining what’s possible since 1912.

for girls everywhere? Girl Scouts have been

true to this

by her nickname, Juliette Gordon Low—also known widely town of Savannah, “Daisy”—started Girl Scouts in 1912 in her home who all shared a Georgia. The first troop consisted of 18 girls do anything. sense of curiosity and a belief that they could s couldn’t yet vote At a time when women in the United State norms, encouraging and were expected to stick to strict social create their own girls to embrace their unique strengths and gathering of girls more than 100 years l smal That opportunities was game-changing. s, and make unlock her full potential, find lifelong friend ago ignited a movement where every girl could the world a better place.

te Gordon ell, the founder of Boy Scouts, inspired Juliet A meeting in 1911 with Sir Robert Baden-Pow had the en wom e befor ut In a time of cultural change—b Low to establish Girl Scouts the following year. ce. siveness, the outdoors, self-reliance, and servi right to vote—Girl Scouts emphasized inclu and Mexico in outside the United States in China, Syria, The first Girl Scout troops were launched on the Onondaga Native American Girl Scout troops formed the 1920s. Additionally, one of the earliest troop in Houston, t Mexican American girls formed a Girl Scou Reservation in New York State in 1921, and tered its first Girl (later called USA Girl Scouts Overseas) regis Texas, in 1922. Lone Troops on Foreign Soil in 1925.

Scout troop in Shanghai, China, with 18 girls clothing and ts participated in relief efforts by collecting Throughout the Great Depression, Girl Scou n printing its bega the waves of new immigrants, Girl Scouts food for those in need. To meet the needs of let in Yiddish, Italian, and Polish.

"Who Are the Girl Scouts?" promotional book cts, collected ted bicycle courier services, ran Farm Aid proje During World War II, Girl Scout troops opera that taught utes Instit ens, as well as sponsored Defense fat and scrap metal, and grew Victory Gard ican girls, orting children during air raids. Japanese Amer women survival skills and techniques for comf California, also established troops. confined to internment camps in Utah and items needed by assembling “Kits for Korea,” pouches of Girl Scouts responded to the Korean War y Magazine Ebon push for inclusiveness and equality, with

by Korean citizens. They also continued to ess toward . . Scouts were making slow and steady progr reporting in 1952 that even in the South, ". n." surmounting the racial barriers of the regio level for 1980s, and Girl Scouts established the Daisy Interest in Girl Scouting expanded in the ed renam was a Senior or Ambassador Girl Scout can earn kindergarten-aged girls. The highest award ssed some The Contemporary Issues series that addre the Gold Award in 1980. Troops also distributed abuse, and child use, drug ding day were confronting, inclu of the most serious issues teen girls of the teen pregnancy.

Digital Cookie, nnial in 2012. In 2014, Girl Scouts launched Girl Scouts turned 100, celebrating its cente ry of the iconic online by girls for the first time in the histo through which Girl Scout Cookies were sold ding robotics inclu cts, subje expands to include more STEM cookie program. Girl Scout programming also and space science badges.

As the Girl Scout Handbook in 1913 said, are its makers."

rrow, and we

“The work of today is the history of tomo

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 15

Earning the Hiking Merit Badge

By Emily Xu, BSA Troop 1010G

The hiking merit badge was my first Scouting merit badge, which took a long time and effort to earn. I had to complete six hikes, including one five-mile, three ten-mile, one 15-mile, and one 20-mile hike. At the time, I was the only member of the girls’ Troop 1010 working on this merit badge, so I worked with a group of boys from Troop 07. I chose the hiking merit badge because it could help me build up my stamina and endurance while learning a few outdoor skills.

We started with a five-mile hike that didn’t feel challenging, and I thought hiking was easy.

We then completed three, ten-mile hikes to build up our endurance for the longer hikes. On one of the ten-mile hikes, the Scoutmaster taught me how to find my orientation without a compass. He positioned his trekking pole in the ground, put a marker at the tip of its shadow, and in 15 minutes, as the sun moved, he made another marker at the shadow tip.

Then, by connecting the two markers, we formed an east-west oriented line, and as we were in the northern hemisphere, the first marker pointed to the west and the second to the east. I felt it would be super helpful knowledge for surviving in the wilderness.

For me, the most strenuous hike was the 15-mile hike because, although we hiked at night, it was extremely humid and stuffy. After five miles of hiking, sweat started trickling down my face and back, and I had to keep drinking lots of water to stay hydrated. On this hike, one of my teammates had blisters on his foot. Though I felt bad for my teammate, it taught me how to treat blisters as part of first aid skills. I watched an adult take out a first aid kit. After sanitizing the blister with alcohol, he used a clean, sharp needle to prick the blister in several spots near the edge. After the fluid came out, he applied an ointment to the blister and covered it with a bandage. I tried to memorize all the steps hoping I could help others when necessary.

When we finally reached our destination at 10 pm, everyone was exhausted. I noticed one Scout sitting on a bench motionless like a statue.

Our longest hike was the 20-mile hike. It was not as grueling as the 15-mile because we started at 4 am when it was still cool. It was a breezy day with light rain and drizzle, and we hiked along the East Coast Park beach dotted with palm trees, kayaks, and umbrellas. We also passed a pond with beautiful purple lotus. It was the first time I saw purple lotus.

Finally, I earned the hiking merit badge. I enjoyed the experience since I learned new skills, improved my endurance, and made new friends.

Emily is a Life Scout in BSA Troop 1010G.

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living in s

When I was young, my hometown of Kansas City felt like an island surrounded by an ocean of open land. Like many Midwestern towns, the world seemed to end at the city limits.

Sometimes, it felt like empathy ended there with it.

I grew up thinking that all that mattered was within driving distance. That the affairs of foreign countries were of no consequence and the issues their citizens faced were not my concern. I believed this until an exchange program tore me from the illusion. I realized then that the values we hold and the issues we face are too similar to allow distance to separate us.

So I made it my mission to bridge that gap.

My journey to gain the tools needed to build bridges brought me to places where no one in my family had gone before. I became the first person in my family to attend college, leaving Kansas City to study journalism at Howard University. I was convinced at the time that news reporting would be how I could connect people.

I was trained to communicate clearly and concisely, but decided that proficiency in one language would not suffice. So, I decided to spend a year studying French in Paris.

18 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

singapore Humans of The Embassy Erick Boone Pickering Fellow

During my time in France, however, my confidence in journalism began to shrink. My French classmates had read a lot about the United States, but they remained skeptical. It seemed as if the power of language was blunted at a distance.

In contrast, when I had face-to-face conversations with classmates, the words appeared to carry more weight. So, I returned to Howard with a new focus: facilitating people-to-people connections.

The question then became how to make a career out of such work.

After graduation, I bounced around from one short-term job to another. I worked as a program assistant for the Mandela Washington Fellowship, then returned to France to teach American history and English. I later found myself on Capitol Hill working to introduce the American public to international events through Congressional briefings and reports.

All the while, these experiences were quietly forming a path for me. They led me to the Department of State, where my specific passions and skills converged. A career as a foreign service officer became that perfect union.

I applied to the Pickering Fellowship – a pipeline designed to help underrepresented communities enter the foreign service – and was fortunate to receive the award. With a fellowship in hand, I completed a Master’s degree at Harvard University’s Kennedy School of Government and prepared to join the foreign service.

I will officially begin my career at the Department of State in a few short weeks. The path was not always straightforward, but it has led me to a longtime goal. As a diplomat, I can report on international issues and lead dialogues abroad while also managing programs that build bridges like the one that opened me up to the world.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 19

First London Interim Semester trip in 1975

Singapore American School's Interim Semester Turns 50!

By Cara D’Avanzo

Fifty years ago, Singapore American School high school students were offered a new kind of school program. Small groups of students and teachers explored a challenge, theme, or place during an “Interim Semester” between the first and second terms. Some explored Singapore, others went to Malaysia or Indonesia, while others attended intensive classes on the SAS King’s Road campus. A post-course survey revealed that most student experiences were positive.

“It was very interesting and educational,” wrote one student, while another called it “the best idea this school has ever come up with.” “Too short, but it was as long as the teacher could endure us,” noted one honest participant. In the language of the time, one comment sums up the overall student response: “It was far out.”

20 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

Interim Semester was born of a sense among the SAS faculty that their students were increasingly isolated from “real life” in Singapore and Southeast Asia. When SAS was formed in 1956, its families tended to be well-integrated with local families through neighborhood, school, church, or work ties.

But by the 1970s, many Singaporeans had moved into new HDB housing estates and the government had decided that Singaporean students must study at local schools.

Expatriates increasingly clustered in certain neighborhoods, socialized at private clubs, and hired other foreigners as domestic help.

With the rise of air travel, many SAS families now flew back to the United States for vacation, rather than exploring the region.

Additionally, an oil boom brought waves of American “oil patch” workers and their families to Singapore, and their stays tended

to be too short to learn much about their new home. The gap between Singaporeans and foreign residents seemed to have widened perceptibly.

The school had already strengthened its Asian studies offerings, which included field trips, so some teachers had experienced leading excursions to Bali, Cambodia, Malaysia, and Thailand. At the end of the 1971–72 school year, SAS Superintendent Dr. Jack McLeod, inspired by an article about an Oregon school’s program, proposed that the school add a short-course program to the next year’s schedule. Teachers liked the idea and suggested that time be allotted between the first and second semesters. A committee of students, teachers, and administrators developed the goals and structure of this new program, while teachers developed courses. From January 26 to February 5, 1973, the first Interim Semester took place.

It proved popular, and over the next few years, the "The last time the 16 of program was repeated and us were together was at refined.

Duration, scope, Paya Lebar Airport after timing, and offerings were getting our luggage…

Will something like this varied. Behavioral problems trip ever happen again?” plaguing young expatriates at Student Irene Kazanis, the time, including drug and writing about a two-week alcohol use, were reflected student trip through in disciplinary problems and Malaysia and Thailand in even a few arrests! But those the student newspaper who believed in the value The King’s Road Review, of Interim Semester worked March/April 1972. to improve procedures and guidelines. By the end of the 1970s, the SAS student body had become less transient and more disciplined, and Interim had become an accepted and valued part of the high school curriculum. The school settled on a one-week program with a wide variety of courses, locations, and fees. Goals for the program included challenging oneself, working with peers, getting to know teachers outside the school setting, exploring new places, skills, and subjects, and helping others. Today, these remain the basic parameters of Interim Semester.

While some course offerings remained fairly constant— exploring neighboring countries, learning photography in Singapore, trying new sports and hobbies—other offerings now seem outdated or bizarre. Courses such as “Silk

Fun facts about Interim Semester’s early years: • The first few courses varied from five days (Chinese Cooking) to fifteen days (Trip to Lake Toba).

• Early trips included travel by local bus, third-class train, rubber plantation jeeps, and cargo liners.

• The Mountain Safari trip, which included climbing Mt. Kinabalu, was the most expensive, at $350 per student. The sponsor noted that “we returned with $37 for whole group.”

• The first Synchronized Swimming students were each refunded 50 cents, as the program was cheaper than expected.

• The Group Survival and Simulations course instructor gave out “free jungle boots, insect repellent, cooking fuel, water sterilization tablets.”

• Course offerings requested by students in the first post-Interim survey included billiards, model railroading, coin collecting, ice-skating, skydiving, shooting, flying, space-travel, witchcraft, beginning brain surgery, making gocarts, demolition school, how to appear in front of boys, batik dying, and wild boar hunting.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 21

Flower Making and Needlepoint,” and “Modelling and Grooming” seem intended for girls. Others, such as “Group Survival and Simulations,” which included junglebased instruction by US and ANZUK military professionals and the chance to fire a bazooka, seem aimed at boys. Some of the stranger-sounding courses included “Psychic Sciences” and “Slimnastics,” whose course description listed improving “defective areas of the body” as a goal. Vocational courses such as woodworking, sewing, and working on an oil rig were intended to help expatriate students gain job experience. Students who opted to work in the SAS elementary school, in local hospitals, or in Sembawang’s Vietnamese refugee camp participated in what we now call community service.

Over the years, philosophical questions about the scope and intent of Interim Semester have continued to provoke community discussion and sometimes disagreement. How physically challenging should trips be? How far afield should they take students geographically? Should they include community service, and if so, how much? Should they include highend recreational activities such as skiing, yachting, and horseback riding? A 2007 article in the student newspaper, The Eye, called Interim Semester “a vacation for rich kids.” In the same paper, however, student Casey DeFord noted that her experience with an after-school program in Soweto, South Africa, was “even more amazing than I had imagined,” and helped the future

Description of one of the first Interim Semester trips

22 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

educator realize she wanted to work in “a profession where I can help people who are less fortunate.”

In 2012, a committee of parents, students, teachers, and administrators worked to align Interim Semester with the school’s mission, vision, and focus on learning. A new mission statement for the program was developed that defines the program’s focus as “deepening students’ understanding of the world around them; inspiring students to contribute to the global community; encouraging students to challenge themselves; and building a sense of community.” Courses are now "I recall a heady degree of excitement and nervousness in the air. Most on the faculty had never offered ‘short courses,’ and many had not done field trips of any kind. But a high level of thoughtful creativity was driving ideas and suggestions.” Teacher Larry Crouch, writing about the first Interim Semester in Journeys, Spring 2013. offered in three categories: global issues, service learning, and eco-adventure. Over their four high school years, all students must sign up for at least one service learning course.

Covid-19 hit Singapore just as Interim Semester 2020 was in its final stages of preparation, and after first postponing it, the administration reluctantly had to cancel it due to government restrictions on gatherings

and travel. An outpouring of emotion from students and parents revealed the extent to which Interim Semester was considered crucial to the SAS high school experience.

In 2021 and 2022, faculty worked within the restrictions to offer Singapore-based day trips. While students mourned the loss of opportunities they had eagerly anticipated, they bowed to reality, chose from over 60 on-island course options, and learned more about their adopted home, their peers, and themselves during the week.

Today, 50 years after the first Interim Semester, SAS high school students and their teachers are planning (with fingers crossed) for the resumption of broader Interim Semester options, including at least

regional international trips in February 2023.

Like so many before them, they look forward to a parent-free week of new knowledge, new skills, new friends, and new insights into themselves and the world around them.

“Who knew that traveling away from home would lead me closer to myself?” reads one student’s post-Interim reflection from 2018.

Writing in 1975 about her trip to Malaysia’s east coast, a student journalist wrote, “We thought that the trip was a great experience, and besides that, it was a blast!” Generations of SAS students would agree.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 23

HEAD SPACE Welcome to the Head Space column, where we’ll discuss all matters related to mental health and how it relates to our lives here in Singapore. By Andrea McKenna Brankin.

No Easy Solution to Deal with Suicide Grief Knowing where to start with a heavy subject like suicide is difficult. Truly. I am a survivor of suicide attempts, detailed in my book, Bipolar Phoenix (Amazon/Kindle). But I had never been close to being on the other side of it until recently when we lost a family member to suicide.

I hope that gives you a small snapshot of some of the feelings one might feel when contemplating or attempting suicide. We can all relate to wanting pain to stop.

There certainly has been an uptick in the spread of mental health education and awareness. People I can relate to the feelings of hopelessness and today seem much more supportive of suicide not seeing a way out of a dark place. With suicidal prevention, with Hollywood celebrities and ideation, it becomes almost an emotional relief sports figures coming forward and putting their to have a solution to end the pain. Mental pain is firepower behind mental health campaigns. I’m perceived the same way as physical pain in your encouraged by this, but I know it did not help my brain’s processing. Suppose you can imagine that family member. And indeed, suicide still occurs all for a second, you’d want the pain to stop. That over the world. was my connection to the suicide solution: stop The grief that comes with losing a loved the pain. one to suicide is complicated. We may experience guilt, regret, sadness, fear, blame, and even shame, as it is still hard to tell others what happened. I hate reading about sudden deaths and not knowing how they died. Often, it is by suicide, but so few families are willing to mention it publicly. I know this from personal experience working at a newspaper in New England.

Families were ashamed. This stigma continues, but I dare say, it is getting better, only in the sense that we may

24 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

upsetting. But in the end, this is what they wanted.

They wanted the pain to end. And in death, they are now at peace. What they leave behind is for Anger is a typical response to suicide deaths. us to process. I think the most compassionate People get angry that they couldn’t help or didn’t way to honor their life is to accept the manner of see it or feel an old (read, out of date) idea that their death. the victim was selfish and didn’t think about how their suicide would affect others. I believe that This may sound upsetting, but as a survivor, I the last one is unfair. In that vein, let me offer an hope people will understand. But we can’t make unconventional coping mentality: sometimes, we people feel feelings. Everyone is entitled to their feelings. For those in pain and mental anguish, must accept that this was what they wanted. we hope we can reach them before they get to To help deal with this complicated grief, consider the level of hopelessness that precedes suicide. keeping a journal. Sometimes writing down your thoughts and feelings can be easier than talking In the end, celebrate people’s lives. Please don’t about them. Celebrate your loved one’s life, and get angry about their death, even by suicide. remember that how they died does not define At best, we can use these experiences to help their life. Share your memories, photos, and stories others learn and know they are not alone. with others who loved the person. Expect to have If you or anyone you know is contemplating ups and downs, and be patient with yourself. suicide, please call The Samaritans of Singapore And don’t forget to take care of yourself. Try to at 1800-221 4444 or email pat@sos.org.sg. eat healthy food, get enough sleep, exercise, and connect with nature.

Talking to a therapist or joining a bereavement support group can also be beneficial. allow others who are suffering to know they are not alone in this type of grief.

In our family – in dealing with our relative’s situation – some of us have realized that this was the way our beloved wanted to leave this life. Often the means of suicide can also be

Andrea has been a journalist for more than 30 years, writing about financial, lifestyle and mental health topics. Her book, Bipolar Phoenix: My F’ed Up Life and How I Fixed It (available on Amazon.com), was released on World Mental Health Day in 2020. She has lived in Singapore for 11 years with her husband, Chris and young daughter, Georgia.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 25

Coming in 2024!

26 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 27

105 Years of History: American Association of Singapore

By Glenn van Zutphen

Imagine Singapore in 1917.

Clipper ships unloading their holds onto small bumboats (in the area that’s now Gardens by the Bay and the Marina Bay Sands); jostling for space up and down the bustling Singapore River at Collyer, Boat, Clark and Robertson Quays. Think of all the sights, sounds and smells (!) of a working port and all the excitement that comes with it.

Picture sultry Singapore with no air conditioning; no ice (or refrigeration in the early days); frequent tropical downpours and flooded streets; kids playing among workers hauling loads of tin, rubber, gambier, pepper, tapioca or copra on their backs; trash being thrown and sewage draining into the river. It was a chaotic, booming, exciting era in our local history.

Think about getting off your sailing ship or steamer at Johnstons Pier (1856-1933) or Clifford Pier (19332006) after more than a month at sea, traveling from the US East Coast, through Havana, around the tip of South America and through the Pacific Ocean, stopping in Manila, Hong Kong, Shanghai and other exotic ports to finally get to here. All while World War I was raging. Who would be there to greet you? Who would give you “a piece of home” far away from your loved ones and the life that you knew?

28 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

FH Levenhagen, AAS President in 1962, wrote, "The American Association of Singapore had its inauspicious beginning in 1917 when a handful of American businessmen met in the office of the Consul General with the vague idea that something ought to be done to organize the American community for mutual benefit." It was felt that an American society among brotherhood lines was needed.

On August 25, that same year, AAS was officially founded by a small group of Americans then stationed in Singapore, under the name "American Association of Malaya." The constitution stipulated that only "male American citizens of full age who are a resident of Malaya and other such countries … shall be eligible to membership." At inauguration, the association had 30 members.

The objectives of the Association were simply stated in the Preamble of the Association’s Constitution: "… to promote good feeling between Americans and persons living in Singapore, to promote friendship among ourselves, to provide educational facilities for children and for other purposes…"

Out of this mission grew a multi-faceted organization that served the community in a variety of ways. Over the decades, AAS has founded most of the American groups in Singapore: • American Women’s Association (then American Women’s Auxiliary) (1935) • The American Club (1948) • Singapore American School (1956) • American Chamber of Commerce (then American Business Committee) (1969) • Singapore American Community Action Council (SACAC) (1973) • Boy Scouts of America Troop 07 (1986) • American Dragons dragon boat team (2005) As the American population in Singapore grew, the different AAS organizations separated into their own associations, while keeping a close relationship with AAS. Additionally, we’ve always enjoyed a close and meaningful relationship with the US Embassy and the US Navy personnel based in Singapore.

Interestingly, while other countries have American Chambers of Commerce and American women’s associations, Singapore is one of the only places

where you’ll find the American Association in our form and with our function. Ours is an ongoing journey of trying to bring value to our members and serve the community. We are the oldest American Association in the world outside of the US. Special events have always been an important way to bring the expat community together here. Living thousands of miles from home, our drive to gather and share holidays and special events has been a key part of the American fabric in Singapore. A mainstay of the annual social calendar is the George Washington Ball. The first one was held at the Sea View Hotel in 1933. This year marks the 87th year with a few postponements due to WWII and Covid.

The Fourth of July Picnic (or some form of it) has been a family affair since the late 1940s. In those days, AAS members came together with their wives and children to celebrate with a game of baseball at the Thompson Road polo ground. By 1967, Independence Day was celebrated with the traditional picnic at Singapore American School. The usual games, train ride, carnival booths, hot dogs and fireworks were on offer. Today, 3,000-5,000 people attend each year, with many of the same carnival games as yesteryear along with professional entertainers, the US Navy Color Guard, food stalls, our sister organizations and, of course, fireworks.

The Welcome Back Celebration is about reconnecting after a long summer break. From 1995 to 2007, this event took the form of a jazz night in Fort Canning Park and then became a music in the park night from 2008-2009. Of late, the family-focused event has been held at the Terror Club, The American Club, the Singapore Flyer, BOUNCE trampoline park, XCL American Academy, and other family-friendly venues.

In the past in celebration of Thanksgiving, AAS sponsored a church service and dinner. Traditionally, it was the AAS women (and eventually the AWA) who made the event a success. We then celebrated the holiday with an annual Turkey Trot 10k, 5k and 2k fun run through the beautiful, tree-lined streets of Sembawang, followed by the only community pancake breakfast in Singapore, hosted at the US Navy Terror Club. This year, we will again work AWA and host a big dinner at XCL American Academy. Yum! Toys for Tots is a relatively new addition to AAS’s special events calendar.

Working with the US Embassy Marine Detachment, this Christmas fundraising event collects news toys as Christmas gifts for underprivileged children in Singapore and Asia.

We are very much looking forward to the event this year when it returns to the The American Club.

In addition, the association runs 40-50 smaller social events each year, ranging from history talks, to food explorations, pub crawls and independent movie screenings, workshops, networking and quiz nights.

Sports have always played a significant role in AAS activities. Baseball and softball competitions have been recorded since 1924. Since 1947, AAS has hosted a golf tournament every year, now known as the Ambassador’s Cup, one of our most popular 30 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

annual events.

The American Dragons began in 2005 and are now a serious presence at all major Singapore and regional dragon boat competitions.

Beyond social, cultural and sporting events, AAS gives value to our members through the CareerSource (formerly Career Resource Center for Excellence), providing them with the opportunity to search for jobs advertised by potential employers, as well as attend workshops to develop themselves personally and professionally.

Our excellent publications, the Living in Singapore magazine (previously Singapore American newspaper) and Living in Singapore Reference Guide (now in its 15th edition), are both valuable resources for newly arrived and long-term residents of Singapore. AAS continues to support community programs, including Home Hospitality for men and women of the US Navy, while here on shore leave.

AAS members have always given back to the Singapore community, one of the things that Americans do, wherever they are based. Over the decades, AAS has participated in the Red Cross International Bazaar, along with our "Team USA" sister organizations. We’ve given many hundreds of thousands of dollars and countless volunteer-hours over the century to local non-profits and charities. Some of the more recent

beneficiaries: Singapore International Foundation, Food from the Heart, Children’s Cancer Foundation, Ronald McDonald House Charities Singapore, Singapore Children’s Society, Love, Nils and many others.

From humble beginnings in a growing port town, to a sophisticated organization with a paid staff serving 1100 members in a world-class city, AAS has grown to meet the needs of its members over the decades. No longer a society of male-only American citizens, we embrace singles, couples and families of all nationalities, who are looking to be part of a dynamic, friendly community.

As our newest mission statement says is best: "The American Association of Singapore serves as the leading non-profit organization that enhances, promotes and celebrates American culture among expats from all countries and the Singaporean community - through social events, charitable activities and career support. We also help expats achieve a sense of belonging and connection throughout all stages of their lives in Singapore."

The History and Living Heritage of the Singapore Botanic Gardens

By Meg Farrell Sine Did you know the Singapore Botanic Gardens once contained a zoo? Yes, from 1870 until 1906, there were enclosures for wild deer, lions, tigers, alligators, and monkeys! The zoo drew an audience as a popular entertainment venue and a source of revenue for the park.

At that time, the present Gardens’ most famous Heritage tree, the giant Tembusu pictured on the back of the $5 note, was only a tiny seedling.

The British Garden Tradition The inspiration for Singapore’s UNESCO World Heritage Site and first National Park goes all the way back to 1822, when Sir Stamford Raffles started a small garden of native spice plants on the slopes of Fort Canning. An avid naturalist, Raffles was trained in the British colonial tradition to explore native plants as potential resources (crops) of economic value.

Singapore’s Agri-Horticultural Society started the Singapore Botanic Gardens (SGB or the Gardens) in 1859. The Society’s initial idea was to create a pleasure garden on an abandoned nutmeg plantation site. The first construction created landscaped terraces and flower beds on the hill, which would become Bandstand Hill. In 1866, Swan Lake was built, and vehicle access roads were paved. In addition to the zoo, this early version of the Gardens hosted flower shows and musical events.

The Singapore Botanic Gardens Comes to Life In 1874, the colonial government took over the management of the Gardens and started the transformation of this garden park of flowers and amusements into a place of botanical interest.

Around this time, botanists at Kew Royal Botanic Gardens in Victorian England were experimenting with cultivating rubber tree seeds collected from Brazil (Parà Rubber).

Kew Gardens then sent tree seedlings to Singapore and Malaya for trial cultivation.

Research was also conducted at the Gardens on other plants of potential economic value, such as coffee, tea, cacao, sugar cane, oil palm, rubber, pineapple, and cardamom. The successful commercialization of

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“This is the original site where eleven seedlings of Para Rubber were first successfully planted in 1877.

These rubber trees gave rise to the birth and growth of the plantation rubber history, first in Peninsular Malaysia and subsequently throughout the world.”

several key crops was a historic advancement in horticultural knowledge. It also led to the impressive economic growth of Singapore and many other British colonies.

Singapore & the Rubber Industry In 1888, Henry Ridley became Director of the SBG. He is famous for discovering a significant innovation in rubber tapping.

His experiments found that the most cost-effective way to extract latex is to use a V-shaped cut to the tree’s bark. This cut increased latex yield without causing lasting harm to the tree.

Regarding economic impact, 70% of the world’s rubber plants originated from Henry Ridley’s rubber trees grown in the SBG. A plaque near Symphony Lake labels the stump of the last remnant of these trees.

Home of Orchid Hybridization Another historic milestone of the Gardens was the orchid breeding program that commenced in 1928 under

Director Eric Holttum. Some scientific instruments used in his laboratory experiments are housed in the building that bears his name. Today, Holttum Hall is the Gardens’ Heritage Museum, which helps tell the backstory of Singapore’s huge industry in producing orchid hybrids. The VIP Orchid Garden was created in 1956 to display hybrid orchids named in honor of dignitaries and celebrities such as Queen Elizabeth, Jacqueline Onassis, Nelson Mandela, Jane Goodall, and Elizabeth Taylor.

a living laboratory of scientific research and education and a national treasure of heritage, conservation, and recreation in Singapore, the Garden City.

Text and Photos by Meg Farrell Sine.

Meg has lived in Singapore (very near the Botanic Gardens) for 4 ½ years after several other expat postings in SE Asia and Brazil. Besides writing, Meg enjoys quilting, bicycling, and traveling.

Historically, SBG is the most visited botanic garden in the world, and the most visited place in the Gardens, since its creation in 1995, is the National Orchid Garden.

This colorful orchid collection includes over 60,000 blooming plants displaying the unique beauty of over 600 hybrid species. After 163 years, the Singapore Botanic Gardens remains

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 33

America's First Home in Singapore

By Jack Davis

Walking by Spring Grove Condominium, you may think it's an ordinary condo, but it has a fascinating history. In 1845, the East India Company gave a large estate of "19 acres, three rods, and 33 poles boarded

by Grange Road, Irwell Bank Road, and River Valley Road" to Hoo Ah Kay, better known as Whampoa.

He was a community leader and business leader in early Singapore as well as a member of the legislative council and one of the first Chinese to use Europeanstyle housing. The land changed hands many times, including being owned by a laundry company, the Singapore Steam Laundry. Subsequently, the Read family owned the land from 1868 to 1885.

The Spring Grove house was initially a bachelor's quarters, built before 1868 using neoclassical architecture. Nobody knows when the house was built for sure (estimates say between 1849 and 1857).

The house was remodeled in 1891 when the roof was rebuilt, and two side bays were added. The house was sold to Han Becker in 1906 of the Behn Meyers and Co, a German company. Employees of the company lived in the house until World War I. The British government seized the house during World War I as enemy property, and it was subsequently owned by a private family and The Straits Trading Company.

The Straits Trading Company leased it in 1936 as the first official home of American diplomats. It was the home of the US Consul General from 1936-1941.

During World War II, a Japanese general used the Spring Grove house as his home, and a bomb shelter was built in the garden. After World War II, the British Military used Spring Grove as a home for the British Air Vice-Marshal. The US Government bought the

house from The Straits Trading Company in 1950 for US$83,438.

When Singapore became a country in 1965, Francis J. Galbraith was appointed the first US Ambassador to Singapore. Galbraith admired the history of Spring Grove and had improvements made to the house. The house had a banquet room, two upstairs porches, conference rooms, and living quarters. Singapore's American community celebrated many events at Spring Grove, including the first Fourth of July event, Easter egg hunts, and fundraisers. Former residents of the house remember playing soccer on the large lawn with the Ambassador's children and recall fruit trees, including mangos, guavas, bananas, jackfruits, figs, and durian.

The land was sold in 1991 for $82.5 million with a 99year lease and was re-developed into a condominium.

Today when you hear Spring Grove, it refers to an extensive development in the Orchard district. The development now consists of several buildings, all 20 stories high. There are 325 units in the complex.

Units have up to four bedrooms; some are even two stories high. The original building is now the Spring Grove clubhouse. The development company chose to keep many of the original features inside and the architecture outside. The building looks very similar today as it does in historical pictures. Currently, the bungalow is used for many different things. There is a minimart, gym, library, management office, and party function room. Residents of the development are allowed to use all of these. Nowadays, Spring Grove is a good mix of past and present, and the building is a good reminder of the past.

Jack is a seventh grader at Singapore American School and a member of Boy Scouts of America Troop 07. He has lived in Singapore for eight years. Jack is interested in technology and history. He likes to swim, travel, watch YouTube and play with his dog.

What’s on around town

during the October school holidays and Halloween

Legoland’s Brick-or-Treat is back!

Every Friday to Sunday from October 7 to November 6, each child (age three to 11) who comes fully dressed in a Halloween costume enters free with an accompanying adult holding a full-priced ticket. The theme park is also launching the new exclusive “The Great Monster Chase” 4D Movie.

the playground, and you might bump into a ghost or two. Little ones can enjoy a kidfriendly experience with a pumpkin-themed bouncy castle and fun games.

For the young and young at heart, celebrate Halloween at Marquee’s theme party, Marqueeverse, on October 29. It's the capital gathering grounds of creatures and Universal Studios Singapore’s Halloween walks of all worlds for both the living and the Horror Nights 10 is back with more broken. spine-chilling thrills! On select nights from Or maybe you prefer something a little September 30 to November 5, enter the different. Following a long hiatus, Silent Disco twisted world of the Killustrator and come Asia is back this year! Pelago Silent Disco face to face with the evil entities he has spans eight weekends across the stunning conjured. Go deep into the jungle as you backdrop of the city at the Marina Bay Sands join the hunt for the insatiable Pontianak.

SkyPark Observation Deck.

And fight to escape demented villains in our special laser-tag experience. All these terrors If it’s theater you’re after, Pangdemonium’s and more await! Note: This event may be End of the Rainbow is on stage from too intense for young children and is not October 7 to 23. This production explores the recommended for children under 13. life of Judy Garland, a must for any die-hard Wizard of Oz fan.

Check out Deep Boo Sea at the S.E.A. Aquarium for the little ones. On selected For families with young thespians, dates until November 8, enjoy a trick-or-treat Pinocchio takes the stage at Wild Rice from trail, spooky meet and greets, and more.

November 17. The classic tale comes to life in this musical adaptation, sure to please SuperPark Singapore’s SuperSpook young and old alike. event is back on October 21-23 and 28-30.

Get lost in the Haunted Maze, or head to LIVING IN SINGAPORE 35

THE NEW ICONS OF SINGAPORE AND THE LOSS OF THE OLD

By Richard Hartung

During a recent visit to a shop at the Singapore Design Centre, I picked up a print showing the icons of Singapore and planned to buy it as a souvenir for my children so they would remember where they grew up. As I looked closer, however, they wouldn’t even recognize more than half of the sites.

Our children grew up in Singapore during the 1990s. Our daughter headed to college in the US after she graduated in 2006, and our son left for college in 2008. Only after they departed did many of today’s icons show up.

The Singapore Flyer was constructed in 2009, the same year as ION Orchard. Marina Bay Sands, the flower-shaped Art Science Museum, and the Helix Bridge were completed 36 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

in 2010. Gardens by the Bay and the Supertree Grove next door were finished in 2012. While the City Hall and Supreme Court buildings existed, only in 2015 did their doors reopen to the public as the National Gallery. And the Jewel at Changi opened its doors in 2019.

While our children would have seen these new icons on a visit to Singapore, they weren’t part of their childhood.

Instead, their childhood was dominated by classic places featured less often these days.

Victoria Concert Hall, where their parents dragged them to concerts, is still there. The Merlion statue is still around, albeit in a different place than when they arrived. The Raffles Hotel looks almost the same in front, and the control tower at Changi Airport is still in use for now. Whereas these icons would likely have been in a print twenty years ago, most have now been surpassed in prominence by the new icons.

Other structures that were part of their lives, only some of which might have made the famous icons list, are gone. Underwater World at Sentosa, the old National Library building, and the old Funan Center, are among the many places that have disappeared. The Jurong Bird Park that they visited often is closing and relocating.

And along with iconic or better-known buildings, other parts of their childhood are gone, too. The condos they grew up in were sold en bloc, and new ones sprouted in their place.

The American Club looks entirely different, and a new building will replace the early classrooms at Singapore American School. Holland Village would be virtually unrecognizable to them.

While it may seem overly nostalgic, the scale and speed of the change hadn’t hit me until I was about to buy that print. For them, it may just be an unpurchased print they don’t know about. For some of us, though, the loss of

Indeed, Singapore is constantly rebuilding and it comes at a cost. When a friend visited recently, I asked for his impression of the city. He commented on the new buildings,

safety, and fast pace. Yet he also felt a sense of “placelessness.” Not knowing what he meant, I asked him to explain. While he saw the new structures, he said, he didn’t see as many historic buildings or sites as in other cities and had gone to modern replacements such as Marina Bay Sands or Gardens by the Bay instead. He felt the city lacked a sense of history, place, and identity that would create a strong attachment.

icons and familiar places can make us feel that we have lost a part of our identity that we expected to remain for years to come.

Richard is the Managing Director of Transcarta and a freelance writer for Today, Challenge, The Asian Banker and other media, as well as corporate clients. He is also the author of Changing Lanes, Changing Lives. Richard is a consultant in retail banking, focusing on payments strategy and efficiency, with more than 20 years of experience in Asia. You can read more from Richard at www.richardhartung.com.

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 37

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The Magnificent Thian Hock Keng Temple

By Asif R. Chowdhury

With its numerous glistening high-rises all around the island showcasing modern architecture, Singapore is globally recognized as an ultra-modern city-state.

Nestled among tall buildings, one occasionally catches glimpses of

some often-colorful temples with unique designs and architecture.

The apparent grandeur of these temple buildings is very likely to pique the interest of anyone who is even slightly culturally or historically inclined. These

ancient-looking temples almost look out of place, as if somehow transported from ancient China or India. These places of worship, with their traditional architecture surrounded by the contemporary glass-and-steel high rises, are a testament to how the old and the ancient are harmoniously intertwined with the new and the modern in this city-state.

Despite being a tiny island nation, Singapore is home to ten different forms of religion.

According to a report by Office of the International Religious Freedom, the main religions practiced widely here are Buddhism (33.2%), Christianity (18.8%), Islam (14%), Taoism (10%), and Hinduism (5%). About 1% of the population consists of Jews, Sikhs, Jains, Jehovah’s Witnesses, and Zoroastrians, while 18.5% do not identify with any particular religion. Numerous places of worship for many common religious groups are scattered all over the island. There are more than 1000 Buddhist and Taoist temples in tiny Singapore,

both small and large, old and new, of various shapes, sizes, and designs. Almost all of them adorn some form of traditional Chinese architecture.

Surrounded by some of the high-rise buildings of the financial district stands the oldest temple in Singapore, the famous Thian Hock Keng, or the “Palace of Heavenly Happiness.”

This 180-year-old temple easily stands out for its grand design and magnificent style steeped in traditional Chinese architecture with many historical artifacts.

Its history goes back to 1839, almost to the very early days of mainland China, especially from the island. the Fujian Province, looking for work and a better future. They Soon after Sir Stamford Raffles sailed across the sometimes first arrived in Singapore in treacherous and often lethal 1819, he quickly recognized the South China Sea in wooden immense potential of the island to junks, which could take as long become a central British trading as two weeks. Once they had hub due to its strategic location safely arrived in Singapore, many in Southeast Asia with deep sea of these migrants would first access. Almost immediately, Sir stop by a small makeshift shrine Raffles started planning to build located on the shore of Telok Ayer up the island. He realized early on Basin to show their gratitude that they would need a significant and respect to the Sea Goddess, workforce to get this done. So, Ma Zu. This was the humble the British brought workers beginning of the historic Thian from their then-Indian colony.

Hock Keng temple, located on The development also started to Telok Ayer Street in Chinatown, attract many Chinese immigrants close to the financial district. In who flocked to the island from those days, the location would

have been oceanfront. Now, due to the reclaimed land program, it currently sits quite inland.

As the Chinese immigrant community started to grow, there was a need to transform the make-shift prayer hall into a proper place of worship. The local Chinese community decided a build a temple following the design and architecture of the temples of Southern China. The construction of Thian Hock Keng started in 1839. Since there were no such temple buildings in Singapore then, artisans and workers were brought from Fujian province to help build the structure. Much of the materials

the different faiths that existed even during the early days of Singapore. The construction of Thian Hock Keng was completed in 1841.

The main deity of the Thian Hock Keng is, of course, the Sea Goddess, Ma Zu. The statue of Ma Zu was brought from the city of Meizhou in Xinghua Province in mainland China in 1840. The local Chinese community celebrated the statue’s arrival with huge fanfare. The celebration lasted for days, but on the primary day, the procession “…extended nearly a third of a mile, to the usual accompaniment of gongs, and artwork were brought from and gaudy banners of every mainland China, such as the color, form, and dimension,” granite pillars and the stone as observed by Charles Burton ornaments we see today. The Buckley, a prominent resident of temple is essentially a wood the then colonial Singapore and construction, but interestingly, also a historian who has written built without a single nail, extensively about the history of following an intricate ancient the island.

Chinese practice.

Buckley went on to add the Undertaking such a significant following about the event: endeavor was not cheap. The “But, what particularly engaged total cost of the construction the attention of spectators, was $37,000 Spanish dollars and was the chief feature of which is more than one million the procession, were the little US dollars in today’s currency.

Most funds were received as public donations, most of which went towards purchasing the land. The largest donation, about $30,000 Spanish dollars, came from Tan Tock Seng, a wellknown philanthropist of the day from Malacca. The local Tamil Muslims, known as the Chulia community, also contributed to the building of the Thian Hock Keng. Walking around the temple complex, one may notice several Indian-looking figures holding girls from five to eight years of up the roof beams. These were age, carried aloft in groups on built as an acknowledgment of gaily ornamented platforms, the contribution of the Chulia dressed in every variety of Tartar community. This is a testament and Chinese costumes....The to the religious harmony, mutual divinity (the statue) herself was respect, and support among

conveyed in a very elegant chair, or palanquin, of yellow silk and crepe, and was surrounded with a bodyguard of celestials, wearing tunics of the same color.” The statue of Ma Zu was placed in the main prayer hall in the center of the temple, where it still stands today.

There is an interesting history behind the Chinese sea goddess.

She was a legendary figure who lived in the Fujian Province from 960 to 987, with an uncanny ability to predict the weather, particularly sea storms. Her name was Lin Mo Niang. The story goes that her unique ability had saved many seafarers' lives.

After she passed away, she was deified as the Sea Goddess Ma Zu. The goddess is worshipped within the Chinese community throughout China and Southeast Asia, including Taiwan, Indonesia, Singapore, and Malaysia. There are several MaZuist temples in the region. She is particularly revered among the Hokkien communities, and her “temple festival” is a significant event for the Hokkien people.

The Thian Hock Keng complex is built using wood, featuring a series of pavilions. Following Chinese tradition, the temple has three halls: the entrance hall, the main prayer hall in the middle, and

a smaller hall in the rear. All the roofs are designed in traditional Hokkien architectural style, featuring curved roof ridges with an upturned “swallow tail” like design. On the edges of the roofs of both the entrance hall and the main hall, four colorful dancing ceramic dragons symbolize justice and power. The large doors of the main entrance hall are adorned with gold paintings of Buddhist figures and dragons.

Guarding the temple doors are the traditional sentinels of Taoist temples, the stone lions.

Smaller alleyways on both sides of the main three halls lead to the monks’ quarters and are also lined with smaller shrines dedicated to other gods. There are two pagodas on each side with octagonal bases. The one on the left is a shrine dedicated to Confucius, while the one on the right houses the ancestral tablets of the Hokkien immigrants.

Behind the temple, along the outer back wall, there is a mural painted by the well-known Singaporean artist Yip Yew Chong, which illustrates the history of Passing through the main the city’s Hokkien community. entrance, one arrives in the Visitors will be amiss if they within the temple compound. beautifully tiled courtyard of the don’t stop by to look at this long, Even today, the association’s main temple with a large bronze illustrative mural. office is in one of the tall glass incense stand in the middle. high-rises on the opposite side There are 12 Chinese deities in From the courtyard, depending of the temple. A new pavilion, on where one is standing, some the temple complex beside Ma built in 1913 and annexed to the Zu. This includes Guan Yin, the of the modern high rises of the main temple called the Chong financial district come into view, Goddess of Mercy; Cheng Huang, Hock Pavilion, was the site of the City God; Baosheng Dadi, standing in sharp contrast to the Singapore's first girls’ school. traditional architecture of the the God of Medicine and Health; It was established in 1915. The Guansheng Dijun, worshipped for temple. Across the courtyard is school was geared towards the the main prayer hall, which holds spiritual protection; Confucius local Chinese girls, with Hokkien (a favorite among students and the statue of Ma Zu. The decor in as the language of instruction. the main hall – such as the gilded their parents); and Kuan Yin, the The school has since moved to Goddess of Mercy. beams and ceilings; the red, Yishun, and the pavilion now serves as a decorative tile shop and a music box museum.

back, and gold lacquered wood; the dragon and the phoenix figures; and the tiled courtyards – are typical elements of Fujian design. Behind the main temple is another courtyard with a smaller altar dedicated to Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.

The temple’s history has been deeply intertwined with the history of the Singaporean Chinese, especially the Hokkien community. The first Chinese association, Singapore Hokkien Huay Kuan, or Hokkien Clan Association, was founded in 1849

In 1907, one of the last emperors of China, Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty, presented a scroll of Chinese calligraphy to the Thian Hock Seng temple, which translates to English as “Waves be calm over the South Seas.”

The calligraphy artwork was presented in appreciation of the contribution of the Singaporean Chinese community towards the Celestial Kingdom. (It is ironic to some extent as, within a decade, the same Nanyang community would broadly support Sun Yatsen, a staunch republican and the first president of China, who fought against the imperialist rule to form the People’s Republic of

structures were infested with termites. The Hokkien Huay Kuan Association took it upon themselves to see to this important task of preserving the historic site. A committee was formed to oversee the restoration work by the association. Adhering to guidelines set by the Singapore Preservation of Monuments Board (now Preservation of Sites and Monuments) on the conservation of national monuments, the original physical appearance, and the temple’s façade were preserved. Particular effort was also made to preserve the original materials beyond repair due to China). The artwork presented their historical significance. Once by the emperor is kept with again, craftsmen from the Fujian the National Heritage Board of province were brought in to ensure Singapore for safekeeping. that the restoration work did not Over the years, the temple has interfere with the temple’s original seen a few additions and has look and feel. The more than 70 gone through some renovation craftsmen included wood carvers, work. Soon after its completion, artisans, and stonemasons. The a Pagoda was added, known restoration work began in 1998 as Chung Wen Pagoda. It is and was completed in 2001. dedicated to learning, literature, It took two and a half years to and poetry. The temple was complete at a cost of S$4 million. renovated in 1906 when wrought The restoration project won the iron gates were installed to temple many awards, the most protect the temple complex. prestigious being the honorable Interestingly, these wrought mention in the 2001 UNESCO iron gates, which are still part Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards. of the temple complex and may In terms of scale and history, look a little out of place to some Thian Hock Keng may not be observant eyes, were imported on par with many of the older from Glasgow. In 1973, Thian Hock and much larger temples in the Seng was gazetted as a Singapore region, particularly in China, National Monument.

Japan, and Korea. However, it By the 1990s, the almost 150-year-old Thian Hock Keng was severely in need of significant restoration. Many of its wooden

walks down Telok Ayer Street and the entrance hall of Thian Hock Keng comes into view, you can’t help but be awed looking at its ancient-looking grand façade amid all the surrounding glass buildings. Today, the temple remains an important place of worship for the local Hokkien population, just as it was during its early days when the Chinese seafarer routinely stopped by to pay their respect and gratitude to Ma Zu. Its traditional Chinese architecture truly stands out among the skyscrapers and can be a sight for sore eyes, which might otherwise tire of looking at the many glass-steel-and-brick high-rises. With its rich heritage, long history, ancient look, and magnificent design, Thian Hock Keng is a must-see while in Singapore.

can certainly and easily compete with most of them in terms of its magnificent design and religious significance. As one

Asif is part of the executive management team of a global semiconductor company and has written for various magazines and trade journals. Asif spent four years as an expatriate in Tokyo, Japan, and three years in Seoul, South Korea, which led him to travel extensively in those countries and across the region. He is the author of A Gaijin Sarariman, and currently lives in Singapore with his wife and son, while his daughter is working in his home state of Texas.

Historical Ebbs and Flows of US-Singapore Bilateral Relations An Interview with Ambassador Tommy Koh

By Lily Ong

Well acquainted with his life-long service to our foreign ministry, I called on Ambassador Tommy Koh because I knew he would be just the person to speak to on the historical ties of the United States-Singapore bilateral relationship.

We exchanged warm greetings as soon as he entered the meeting room. The ever-slight tilt of a painting on the wall by Chinese painter Chen Wen Xi caught his eye, and he stopped to adjust it.

“In 1968, I asked Mr. Lee Kuan Yew for $100 to purchase the first piece of art for our foreign ministry.

He said no initially, but agreed afterward,’’ chuckled Koh, beginning and concluding his first story at our meeting with a boyish smile of content and benign mischief that hinted at a feeling of buoyant triumph.

We briefly strolled around the room that showed off neatly arranged artwork. There was an oil painting

by Singaporean artist Cheng Soo Pieng and two sets of pots by Singaporean master potter Iskandar Jalil. I could see, oozing out of Koh, a real sense of appreciation for the various art pieces.

As we moved toward the sitting area, Koh asked, “What are you drinking?” “Good old Chinese tea,” I sprightly answered. He then instructed his colleague, Siti, to bring the same for him, along with some books he had authored.

Laying three books on the table, Koh graciously said, “These are for you.” I studied the familiar covers (Tommy Koh Reader: Favourite Essays and Lectures, America: A Singapore Perspective, and The United States-Singapore Free Trade Agreement) and recognized them instantly as titles I had come across at the bookstores I frequent with my daughter.

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From the books he had presented me, it was evident Koh knew why I had visited.

“Our economic relations began 180 years ago, long before diplomatic relations were established between US and Singapore,” stated Koh. “You may know that the first American Consul, Joseph Balestier, owned a sugarcane and cotton plantation called Balestier Plantation?” He kicked off our conversation.

“Yes, there’s the Revere Bell in our National Museum that Mrs. Balestier, a daughter of Paul Revere, had donated to Singapore,” I politely affirmed my awareness.

To this day, the Revere Bell remains the only bell made by the famous Paul Revere outside the US. Located in the Singapore History Gallery of the

National Museum of Singapore, the bell has come to symbolize the long-standing friendship between the two countries.

“Looking back on the past 56 years of diplomatic relations, what would you list as the three high points of our bilateral relations?” I inquired.

After a momentary pause, Koh said, “When the Philippines closed Clark Air Base and Subic Naval Bay to the US, Mr. Lee Kuan Yew bravely offered Singapore’s help. He offered to allow the US Air Force and Navy to use the facilities in Singapore. America’s acceptance of his offer has to be the most important bilateral landmark because it helped to anchor the US to our region.”

“And the American presence has been instrumental to the stability of our region,” I chimed.

Koh nodded, then placed both hands firmly on one of the books before us and said, “And this would be the second high point: The US-Singapore Free Trade Agreement.”

Glancing at the book cover graced by the images of former US President George W. Bush and former Singapore Prime Minister Goh Chok Tong, I asked how long the agreement had taken to work out from conception to conclusion.

“Two years to negotiate, and another to have it approved by US Congress,’’ Koh answered.

One of the concluding acts of the Clinton administration, the USSFTA not only implanted for the US a template for future trade agreements and showed the US’ abiding commitment to Asia, but also strengthened Singapore as a manufacturing and services hub. Koh was, notably, the chief negotiator for Singapore.

Koh jovially went on to reveal how the agreement was conceived on a stormy night in Brunei after a round of midnight golf between Clinton and Goh (more such charming tales can be found in the books of this master storyteller).

However, soon after he had shared the enchanting story, a troubled expression came over his face. He detected my quizzing look and went on to explain.

“I must say, I’m quite sad at the growing polarization of US politics. After US Congress had approved the FTA, we had requested for Bill Clinton, Charlene Barshefsky, and Steve Green to be invited to the signing ceremony since they were the ones who had started the negotiation. Our request was rejected,” Koh sighed.

“During my time [as Ambassador to the US], it was not uncommon to see Democrats and Republicans coming together socially and when the situation called for, but the rift between the two parties has since grown very wide.”

Having lived in the US half my life, I am all too familiar with the growing political fissure Koh referenced. From healthcare to education, housing to infrastructure, America has indeed become so polarized that she has not been able to make definitive calls on even critical internal issues.

Reining myself from transitory thoughts, I asked about the third high point. Koh’s eyes lit up as he proceeded to share a proud moment.

“In 1985, as Ambassador of Singapore to the US, I successfully persuaded the Senate and the House to invite Mr. Lee to address a Joint Session of Congress.

No other Singaporean leader has ever had such a privilege.”

Indeed, not all foreign leaders who visit the US are invited to address Congress, the decision of which has historically been made by the congressional leadership in consultation with the executive branch. To receive such an invitation is considered an immense privilege and honor.

Relationships go through ebbs and flows, so I inquired about the low points of the bond between the two countries. His response was unexpected.

“During my time [as Ambassador to the US], I received a frantic call from Singapore one day on why the US had imposed a ban on our export of aquarium fish.”

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 45

My eyes went wide in bewilderment as he took note.

“Yes, an export ban had been placed on our aquarium fish, and Singapore was seeking to understand the rationale. It turned out that we had not signed the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, so the ban was an act of pressure to get us to ratify the treaty.

“I promptly advised Singapore to sign, and we did, so the ban was lifted. Truly, it was something we ought to have done without being pressured into doing it,” Koh continued.

“The other low point,” Koh readily offered, “was the expulsion of US diplomat Hendrickson from Singapore.

We had expelled him for interfering in our domestic politics, and the US, in turn, expelled one of my staff, Robert Chua. Such retaliatory practice is standard in the diplomatic world. It was unfortunate as Chua had arrived at our embassy not too long before.”

As with those who had followed the news, I was aware of said incident. The year was 1988, and the US State Department had sought Chua’s removal in retaliation for the expulsion of E. Mason Hendrickson, the first secretary of the American embassy in Singapore. Singapore had accused the latter of inciting dissident lawyers to run for office against our ruling party, the People’s Action Party. Former president Ong Teng Cheong, who was then SecretaryGeneral of the National Trade Union Congress, even led a protest outside the US embassy.

“The US disagreed with our version of the story and insisted that Hendrickson was merely doing his job meeting with various parties, including the opposition,” Koh added.

“But Francis Seow, the lawyer implicated, was not in the opposition, was he?” I curiously interjected.

Koh continued without proffering a direct answer, “We proposed to America to submit our dispute to an arbitral tribunal and stated that we would abide by the outcome of the findings. However, America rejected our proposal.

“It took about a year for relations to be normal again,” Koh recounted.

While we were trekking down memory lane, I could not resist surfacing my infamous colleague at Hard

Rock Cafe, where I worked as a part-time wait staff as a student. Michael Fay, charged with various counts of vandalism, mischief, and theft, had dominated global news cycles and set back US-Singapore relations in 1991. At the US’ request for leniency, Singapore reduced his sentence from six strokes of the cane to four.

“An American official subsequently tried, at the WTO (World Trade Organization), to block Singapore from hosting the first WTO Ministerial Meeting, but he had no support. The meeting proceeded to be held in Singapore.”

“But, there’s another low point, and that’s the TransPacific Partnership (TPP) withdrawal by the US when then-president Trump came into office. Misunderstood by most, TPP was birthed by Singapore, New Zealand, Brunei, and Chile - not the US. We had spent five years negotiating it, so US withdrawal was a massive disappointment.”

My hour-long inquisitiveness concluded with one more query on how the US and Singapore have worked around our disagreement on press freedom.

Merrily, Koh went into a delightful story on how he had arranged for then-PM Lee to speak with US publishers of newspapers. At the end of the meeting, though Mr. Lee did not gain their agreement, he secured their respect.

Koh and I spent the rest of our time perusing precious decades-old photographs. We also broached the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework. Alert as whiskers on a cat, he instantly corrected me when my views erred, but did it ever so gently. Koh’s diplomatic ways jolted my mind back to a sparring dialogue I had witnessed between former foreign minister George Yeo, historian Wang Gungwu, and him. All three sages were able to disagree with class, respect, and graciousness, resulting in a healthy and productive divergence.

Nearing the last sip of my tea, I knew it was time to bid Koh farewell and let him tend to his next engagement. At age 84, the Ambassador-at-Large is sharper than a tack (and men half his age) as he presses on in strides to serve Singapore tirelessly.

With him on the US-Singapore diplomatic scene, I am confident our two countries will persevere in nurturing our relationship with care and, perhaps, propel it to the next level.

Former residents of America, but currently based in Singapore, Lily and her daughter, Tess, traverse the world regularly as a mother-daughter team. Lily is involved in media and diplomacy while Tess is a third-grader and the only one known to study the safety instruction cards before every flight.

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Queen Elizabeth II's Legacy in Singapore

By Melinda Murphy

Rarely has a person touched so many lives across the world for such an enduring time.

Queen Elizabeth II’s remarkable dedication and achievements over her 70-year reign were inspiring for so many worldwide. Here in Singapore, the Queen always held a very special place; her imprint here can be felt across the island nation.

Singapore is part of the Commonwealth, first joining in October 1965 after gaining independence from Malaysia, and Singapore regularly participates in the biennial Commonwealth Heads of Government Meetings (CHOGM). In fact, Singapore hosted the very first CHOGM in 1971, which produced a seminal document known as the Singapore Declaration of Commonwealth Principles.

Queen Elizabeth II visited Singapore during her time as monarch on three different occasions in 1972, 1989, and 2006. What changes she saw from visit to visit! From Singapore’s first restored conservation shophouse to a Townsland Primary School in the heartlands, Queen Elizabeth II saw many sides of Singapore.

Over her three visits, she attended a banquet at the Istana, visited the Kranji War Memorial and sipped tea at Tea Chapter. Wearing a vibrant

48 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

green skirt suit and matching feathered hat, she first met Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong at The Fullerton Hotel. She even strolled through the very first HDB estate in Singapore, checking out the void deck of Block 53, Lorong 5, and then stopped by for a visit at a local family’s flat. Imagine hosting the Queen in your home!

In 2006, 34 years later, Queen Elizabeth again stopped by the Toa Payoh HDB during her final Singapore state visit.

To commemorate Singapore’s special relationship with Queen Elizabeth II, Singapore has also named many places after the popular monarch.

Queenstown To cope with Singapore’s booming population, Queenstown was the first satellite town in Singapore – meaning that it was a self-sufficient housing estate outside the city center. It had everything it needed to be self-sufficient such as shops, markets, schools, and places of worship.

The area was named Queenstown to mark the Queen’s 1953 coronation. The naming didn’t end there! There are five estates within Queenstown: Princess Estate, Duchess Estate, Tanglin Halt, Commonwealth, as well as Queen’s Close and Queen’s Crescent.

Queen Elizabeth Walk Esplanade Park has existed since 1922 but was refurbished and renamed Queen Elizabeth Walk on May 30, 1953 as part of the celebrations for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Odd fact? Even though it was officially named Queen Elizabeth Walk, many locals – even the newspapers – referred to it as the Princess Elizabeth Walk in the 50s and 60s. Over the years, the walk has undergone a few changes, but today, Queen Elizabeth Walk is now part of Esplanade Park and extends along the coast south of the Esplanade Theatre. Check it out!

Queen’s Dock The Queen’s Dock at Keppel Shipyard was developed in 1953 to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. It was the most modern dry dock in Southeast Asia when it was completed in 1956, able to dock ships up to 18,000 tons. It was supposed to be officially opened on Halloween in 1956 by Prince Philip, but his trip was canceled due to the disruptions of the Chinese Middle School Riots that month.

The dock was commissioned without him and started its operations in November 1956. Today, Queen’s Dock is the water channel which lies between the Caribbean at Keppel Bay and Reflections at Keppel Bay.

Elizabeth Orchid Dendrobium Elizabeth is an orchid hybrid, with twisted Dresden-yellow petals and a uraniumgreen lip. It was named in honor of the queen when she visited Singapore in 1972. Flowering just twice a year, the Dendrobium Elizabeth was bred from orchids originating from Singapore and Papua New Guinea, and carries just about 40 blooms per plant.

Singapore mourns the Queen Following the death of Queen Elizabeth II, state flags at all government buildings in Singapore were flown half-mast on the day of the Queen's funeral. Additionally, Singapore’s Parliament observed one minute of silence at the beginning of its sitting on Monday, September 12. President Halimah Yacob and her husband attended the Queen’s funeral in London.

Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong commented on his Facebook page about the Queen’s death: "Her contributions to the United Kingdom, the Commonwealth and indeed to the world will be recorded in history, and she will always be remembered fondly as a great world leader….

Her Majesty also left a significant mark on Singapore’s history and our longstanding close relations with the United Kingdom.”

Indeed, she will be missed.

Rest in peace, Your Majesty.

Queen Elizabeth II Cup The Queen Elizabeth II Cup was inaugurated on February 20, 1972 by the Singapore Turf Club to commemorate Her Majesty’s first state visit to Singapore. The monarch returned to the Club at the Singapore Turf Club’s Kranji home in 2006 to once again grace the Queen Elizabeth II Cup. Photo: AFP

LIVING IN SINGAPORE 49

In A Gaijin Sarariman, Take a Grand Tour of Japan In his first book, author Asif R. Chowdhury, a regular writer for Living in Singapore, takes us with him on his wild ride as an expat in Japan.

By Susan Williams

Japan holds a fascination for many, whether it be from images they’ve seen of Mt. Fuji; videos of the famous Shibuya crossing in Tokyo; or portrayals of geishas, samurai, and sumo wrestlers in television and movies. Americans also have a somewhat complicated history with Japan stemming from World War II: the bombing of Pearl Harbor; the subsequent internment of Japanese-Americans; and the nuclear bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. One would think there would be bad blood between the United States and Japan, but on the contrary: today, they are close allies.

Looking at the two nations’ cultures, they couldn’t be more dissimilar. Americans have a reputation for being brash, not afraid to say what they mean. Japanese people tend to be reserved, polite, and apologetic to an almost extreme degree. As a nation self-isolated for more than 200 years under the Tokugawa shogunate, the culture is steeped in tradition and unwritten rules unknown to foreigners. Chowdhury takes us through many of these rules as he learns them along the way, sometimes clumsily, as an expatriate in Tokyo for more than four years.

history and geography peppered throughout.

Any expat can relate to the stories he tells, such as the house hunt, withdrawing cash from an ATM, or trying to order a pizza when you don’t know the language. I found myself laughing out loud when, while searching for a suitable home in Tokyo, Chowdhury and his wife passed some lovely houses with rental signs out front.

Chowdhury asked the agent working with him, Miku San, why she had not shown them those houses. She replied, “[V]ery sorry, but these houses are not for you.” It reminded me of house hunting in Singapore; my agent more or less ignored the condos I wanted to view in Ang Mo Kio, telling me they were not right for us.

We learn about the nuances of Japanese culture through Chowdhury’s experiences in the workplace, as he struggles to fit in with the sarariman as a gaijin (foreigner). Sarariman are the Japanese businessmen (there are very few women who fit the description) wearing a suit When I first picked up the book, I expected and tie, working long hours, then entertaining something you’d find in the bookstore's business clients with dinner and drinks late into the section. I was wrong. A Gaijin Sarariman is part night, and then crowding onto the famously memoir and part how-to guide, with a lot of punctual and packed subways and trains the 50 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

following day. The term sarariman is a waseieigo, or a word borrowed from English, with a Japanized pronunciation. Sarariman comes from “salaryman.”

Slowly but surely, Chowdhury demonstrates to his Japanese colleagues the value he brings with his years of expertise and knowledge of the company and its products. He learns the rules of business meetings, experiences his first onsen with his fellow sarariman, and gets impromptu tours of cities he’s visiting for meetings with clients, which made me jealous.

Over time, Japan starts to feel like home. This becomes clear to Chowdhury one day as he is walking to the train station with his young daughter, past a laundry shop whose elderly owners he’d often exchange friendly waves.

The older man came running out of the shop, shouting something in Japanese that Chowdhury did not understand. They turned back, and as they approached the man, he held out a lollipop for his daughter. When his daughter thanked the man in Japanese, he knew Tokyo was home.

On its face, A Gaijin Sarariman might look like a book about business. But it’s really about navigating and learning about Japanese culture through the lens of the workplace. And it’s about finding your footing in a place where the culture and the language are entirely foreign to you. Singapore, in comparison, is much easier for Americans since you can find everything you need in English. There’s still an adjustment, and Chowdhury’s adventures in Japan show us how wonderful it can be to fully open yourself to a culture that’s not your own.

A Gaijin Sarariman will be released on October 4, and is available for pre-order at Kinokuniya and Amazon.

Visiting Siem Reap, Cambodia

By Mia McDonald

There’s no better time to consider planning a trip to Cambodia than now. So let’s cover some of the critical things you need to know about visiting Cambodia to help you plan a trip very soon. With visitors at an all-time low at many top tourist sites, you’ll have an experience like never before by truly being able to immerse yourself in the history and beauty of Cambodia.

Key Facts About Visiting Cambodia Cambodia is located in South-East Asia and is a popular destination with travelers looking to visit historical sites such as Angkor Wat. The population of Cambodia is currently 16.72 million people, with Khmer being the official language spoken here. Roughly 95% of the population is Buddhist, with the remainder being a mixture of Christians, Muslims, Jews, and other religions. Regarding the currency you’ll use when traveling here, make sure you get some riel ahead of your visit, which is the official currency of Cambodia. It’ll help revitalize the economic strength of their money, but don’t forget your USD, too;

it’ll come in handy. Many businesses in urban areas or tourist hot spots also accept and quote prices in US dollars.

Historical Highlights of a Visit to Cambodia Regardless of what you enjoy doing on your vacation, you’ll find there are endless historical and cultural sites to visit in Cambodia. These are a few of the highlights that we believe everyone should consider adding to their Cambodia travel itinerary. You could easily spend a week or so staying in Siem Reap and enjoying this area’s historical and cultural sites, which is why it’s the top place we recommend to anyone visiting Cambodia for the first time.

Angkor Wat There’s no better time to plan a trip to Cambodia to see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Angkor Wat than now. This site is usually packed with visitors from around the world, with an average visitor count of 7,300 people per day. However, at the current time, there are

just roughly 200 people a day visiting, offering you the chance to have the place nearly to yourself due to its immense size. It’s located just a few miles from the city of Siem Reap in northwest Cambodia. So make sure you set aside a few days to explore this excellent site, which will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of your trip to Cambodia.

Preah Vihear Temple

Phnom Kulen

Another of Cambodia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites is Preah Vihear Temple, which is in the Dangrek Mountains. While it’s an incredible place to see, it is a little more challenging to visit due to its remote location, about four hours northeast of Siem Reap. The temple’s architecture can be traced back to the early 10th century, making it a fascinating site for visitors to explore. Within the main hall, you can visit the monks in the Buddhist pavilion, who welcome and bless visitors from around the world.

Phnom Kulen This site is two hours from the city and has had UNESCO protection for the past two decades. The sacred mountain offers plenty of opportunities for day hiking and exploring.

Make sure you head to the Thousand Lingas River and the waterfalls here, allowing you to immerse yourself in the beauty and nature of Cambodia.

Angkor Thom One of the most popular tourist attractions we recommend visiting when staying in Siem Reap is Angkor Thom. It was built towards the end of the 12th century and is the country’s oldest capital. Make sure you don’t miss the temple of Bayon, where you’ll be impressed by the stone sculptures.

Where to Stay?

The Siem Reap area has many accommodation options to fit any travel style or budget. Here are a few of my favorites.

Raffles Siem Reap recently celebrated its 90th Anniversary. Centrally located, it offers five-star luxury and is full of history.

Shinta Mani Angkor

Shinta Mani Angkor offers four-star rooms and villas, all with fabulous style and service.

Lynnaya River is an excellent three-star budget option that is clean and offers connecting rooms.

How to Play?

Between visiting the temples, there are some engaging activities to consider in Siem Reap.

As the travel industry is restarting, new experiences are crafted every day. If you’re interested in something unique and special, reach out to your travel agent to assist you with creating an itinerary unique to your desires.

Here are a few ideas.

• Uncover the magic of Siem Reap by bicycle.

Since the pandemic, the government took the time to add excellent bike lanes throughout the city, making it easy and safe to ride.

• Hop into a gondola to view Angkor Wat by water. This experience is both exciting for families and romantic for couples.

• Visit Theam’s Art Gallery, which is an interactive experience and home to the artist himself. Mr. Theam Lim is constantly creating new works to add to his gallery among beautiful tropical garden landscapes. A visit to Theam’s is a 30-minute to two-hour experience, depending on your interests.

Phare Circus

• Senteurs D’Angkor is a beautiful way to immerse yourself in the sights, smells, and feels of sustainability through hands- What to Eat? on workshops using local produce to create I’ve found that taking a food tour by bike, tuknatural cosmetics or candles that you can tuk, or car is the safest way to experience take home as a keepsake. Fun for all ages.

Khmer Cuisine and discover the wide range of food options. Food tours help you locate • The Phare Circus is an exciting way to the best street food stalls to the best upscale learn more about Cambodian history and restaurants! For fine dining, check out The folk tales through performance theater. So Embassy, where reservations are required. start your evening at the Phare Café, enjoy the show, and don’t forget to support the As you can see, there’s no better time local artists by shopping afterward at the to consider booking a trip to Cambodia, Phare Boutique! specifically Siem Reap. With sites such as Angkor Wat receiving just a fraction of the number of visitors they did in the past, you’ll find that tourist attractions are much quieter than they’ve been for decades. There are also fantastic deals when booking accommodation and travel, as local businesses are incredibly grateful to see visitors returning. Traveling to Cambodia over the upcoming months allows you to immerse yourself in the country’s history, Beyond Siem Reap: food, and culture without battling the crowds, allowing you to have a unique local experience Sihanoukville’s Islands – in this stunning part of the world. Create your luxury, relaxing beaches individualized itinerary using a trusted travel Cardamom Tented Camps – agency. Expats Traveling Group, LLC is here see wildlife in natural habitat; to serve your unique travel needs. clean, comfortable camping

A Fabulous Time Awaits:

THE RESIDENCE BINTAN

BY SUSAN WILLIAMS

It was ATV ride that I will never forget! My guide Henang led the way, taking me through brush fields and trees … and puddles galore. Thanks to the previous day’s rain, some of those puddles were pretty large, too!

I managed not to get too dirty until I got stuck going through a particularly deep puddle. My feet were soaked through, and mud splashed everywhere. Henang managed to get my ATV out, and we were off again. I would do it again in a heartbeat!

ATV rides are just one of the many activities available at The Residence Bintan. In addition to the usual beach activities, including snorkeling, wakeboarding, and jet skiing, the Boat House offers several more high-adrenaline activities, such as paintball, a ropes course, rock wall climbing, and archery. There’s also a kids club, where children ages three to 12 can do crafts, play chess on a giant chessboard, or feed the rabbits at Earth Basket, the resort’s organic farm. With so many activities to choose from, it would be hard to get bored.

The Residence Bintan is a quick one-hour ferry ride from Singapore.

From Bandar Bintan Telani ferry terminal, The Residence provides transportation for the roughly onehour drive across the island, which is actually pretty interesting as you can see some small towns along the 56 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

way. When you turn onto the bumpy dirt road, you know you’ve almost reached your destination, and quiet luxury awaits.

The Residence recently invited me to spend two nights at the resort and get a taste of their offerings. I took a 9 am Bintan Resorts ferry from Singapore in Emerald Class, which I highly recommend. You can avoid the lines at immigration and instead wait comfortably in a lounge offering coffee, tea, and sodas. From there, I was greeted by my driver from The Residence with a bottle of water, a cold cloth, and a delicious cookie for the ride.

outdoor balcony space where you can opt to have a hammock hung.

There are also deluxe sea view villas with a private pool built into a hill. I was surprised by how spacious all of the rooms were.

The resort has three restaurants, plus a pool bar. I enjoy sampling the local cuisine when I travel, so I tried

Activities include snorkeling, yoga, wakeboarding, jet skiing, wind surfing, island hopping, archery, paintball, wall climbing, cooking classes, island hopping, cycling, table tennis, foosball, kayaking, and more.

The Residence offers 127 terraces and villas in seven different room types. There are one- and twobedroom beachfront villas with a private pool and direct access to the beach. These villas also have some partially-enclosed garden space that would be great for little ones to burn off some energy. There are also garden terraces, with connecting rooms for larger parties, and upper sea view suites, with enormous

many Indonesian dishes during my stay. One of my favorites was Pepes Udang Tahu, marinated prawns and tofu wrapped in a banana leaf.

Admittedly, I had no idea what to expect, but the flavors were mild and delicious! I also particularly enjoyed a Javanese dish, Ayam Bakar. The marinated grilled chicken, served with pandan rice, was excellent. I’m not a huge fan of typical Western breakfast foods, so I was delighted

to see Indian, Japanese, and Chinese options on the breakfast menu for room service. My chana masala hit the spot after a morning yoga session.

The property spreads over nearly 173 acres. That may sound intimidating, but a buggy is just a phone call away to take you from one area of the resort to another. There are also abundant bicycles scattered amongst the villas, including a few tandem bikes if you feel adventurous!

I enjoyed riding them around.

For some, a visit to a resort is not complete without a visit to a spa. The Residence has a modest spa with individual spa villas. I opted for their 60-minute signature massage and appreciated the treatment starting with a foot scrub. Truth? I’ve always been a little self-conscious about how dirty my feet might be after walking around in sandals all day! The massage therapist was responsive to the areas I wanted to focus on and asked if the pressure was acceptable a few times along the way.

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When I left The Residence, I felt refreshed and reinvigorated by my quick getaway. Before I’d even left, I started looking at the calendar to make plans to return with my family as I think it’d be an excellent vacation for families who want many activities to keep their kids busy. It’s also a terrific spot for a couple who wants to get away without going too far, with the level of privacy the villas afford and options for romantic dinners. I love that The Residence is so close and easy to reach. Who knew that a quiet reprieve from Singapore's noise and the hustle and bustle was just a quick boat ride away?

For a limited time, AAS members receive a discount on room rates, activities, and spa treatments. Check out their member offer here.

The Residence Bintan +62 778 6000 888 www.cenizaro.com/theresidence/bintan

58 LIVING IN SINGAPORE

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