Butter by James Martin

Butter

Butter is the essential book for anyone who loves to cook with this glorious, versatile ingredient.

Through over 130 original recipes, James Martin presents some of his favourite new dishes and classics – everything from savoury delights like Butter-poached lobster, Truffle butter brioche, Chicken with 'nduja butter and Dover sole meunière, to sweet treats including Rhubarb custard bread and butter pudding, Shortbread and Rum Baba.

Butter can bring so much to a plate of food and James showcases this comforting superstar of cooking to its very best.

Sea Bass En Croute with Hollandaise Sauce

SERVES 6

600g puff pastry plain flour, for dusting 1 sea bass (approx. 1.2–1.4kg), skinned, boned and cut into 2 fillets

FOR THE MOUSSE

75g sea bass, skinned 75g scallops 125g egg (about 3 eggs) 1 egg yolk 200ml whipping cream 25g pistachios, chopped a few sprigs of tarragon, chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

250ml white wine 100ml white wine vinegar 2 sprigs of thyme 2 sprigs of tarragon black peppercorns 3 egg yolks 225g butter, melted 35g clotted cream

FOR THE EGG WASH

2 eggs 25ml full-fat milk This is a true classic that I have been cooking for years and a fish like sea bass is great for this dish, but you can use any white fish, such as cod or haddock, or salmon. The most important thing with this recipe, apart from the quality of the fish, is the homemade puff pastry. There is a massive difference in colour and texture and above all else, taste. Served with hollandaise sauce, this is a classic that is worth the effort.

To make the mousse, blend the sea bass, scallops, whole eggs, egg yolk and cream in a Thermomix, in one movement, until homogenous and smooth. Fold through the pistachios and tarragon and season with salt and pepper. Mix together the eggs and milk for the egg wash. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of 3mm, then divide it into 2 equal pieces. Transfer one piece to a baking sheet. Lay the first sea bass fillet onto the pastry and spoon the mousse evenly down its centre. Sandwich the other fillet on top. Carefully place the second sheet of pastry on top, trimming any edges to fit, and seal it in with egg wash. Cut out a pastry fish using the pastry offcuts to decorate the top of the sea bass parcel. Brush the top and sides with the egg wash and chill for 30 minutes, then add the pastry fish and any other details. Preheat the oven to 1900C (1700C fan)/3750F/gas 5. Bake for 20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown and evenly baked. While the fish bakes, make the hollandaise. Add the wine, wine vinegar, thyme, tarragon and 4 grinds of black peppercorns to a pan over a high heat and boil rapidly to reduce by half. Pass this through a sieve and store refrigerated in a clean jar, for use now and with leftovers another time. In a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, whisk the egg yolks with 3 tablespoons of the reduction and a good pinch of salt until you have a thick, glossy, light sauce. Then carefully, in stages, whisk in the melted butter, pouring it in a steady stream. Finish the hollandaise by mixing in the clotted cream and seasoning with some salt and pepper. Set over a pan of simmering water to keep it warm. Serve a slice of the sea bass en croute with the hollandaise sauce on the side.

‘Quite simply the most important ingredient in our kitchen. But James, everything in moderation!’

Galton Blackiston

Morston Hall

Squid with Burnt Butter & Fried Capers

SERVES 4

4 large squid, cleaned 2 tablespoons plain flour 50g butter sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE SAUCE

200g butter 2 tablespoons small capers juice of 1 lemon 1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped Fresh squid seared in a very hot pan is such a simple dish, perfect for alfresco dining. The burnt butter with a touch of lemon and the fried capers are both key to this dish. Simply drain the capers and deep-fry them so that they pop open. Alternatively, just add to the foaming butter before serving. Slice the squid into 10 x 3cm pieces and score. Place the flour and some seasoning in a shallow bowl, and coat the squid, dusting off any excess flour. In a large frying pan, heat the butter and, when foaming, add the squid. Cook for 2 minutes, then flip over and cook for a further 2 minutes. To make the sauce, put the butter in a large pan and heat until it’s nut brown. Add the capers, lemon juice and parsley. To serve, divide the squid between 4 plates and spoon over the sauce.

Crispy Buttermilk Chicken with Chipotle Dressing

SERVES 4–6

12 chicken thighs, skinned and boneless 500ml buttermilk vegetable oil, for deep-frying fine sea salt

FOR THE SEASONED FLOUR

300g self-raising flour 2 teaspoons celery salt 2 teaspoons dried oregano 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 teaspoons garlic salt 3 teaspoons onion salt 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE CHIPOTLE DRESSING

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 3 egg yolks 200ml vegetable oil 1 tablespoon chipotle chilli paste

TO SERVE

a few sprigs of coriander and mint, chopped 1 red and 1 green chilli, sliced 2 limes, cut into wedges One of our most popular restaurant dishes for both kids and adults alike, the key is to use chicken thighs for the best taste, but soak them in buttermilk for at least 24 hours, as this flavours and tenderises the meat. The selection of spices is up to you, but this is our favourite combination. Simply mix with flour, coat the chicken and deep fry; if the chicken pieces start to colour too quickly, remove from the fryer and finish cooking in the oven, as you want the fryer at a temperature where it cooks the chicken through but browns the crumb at the same time. I love this with a chipotle dressing, tons of chilli and mint, and fresh lime.

Place the chicken in a large bowl or container and coat in the buttermilk. Cover and pop in the fridge overnight. The next day, heat a pan of vegetable oil or a deep-fat fryer to 1700C (3380F). Mix the flour together with all the spices in a shallow bowl. Drain the chicken from the buttermilk and dredge it through the seasoned flour, coating each piece well. Fry the chicken in batches for 6–8 minutes until golden and crispy, then drain on kitchen paper. To make the chipotle dressing, whisk together the mustard and egg yolks. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking continuously until you have a thick dressing, then whisk in the chipotle paste. To serve, pile the chicken onto a platter, drizzle over the chipotle dressing and sprinkle the herbs and chillies over the top. Dot with lime wedges for squeezing.

Frangipane & Cherry Bear Claws

MAKES 16

1 x quantity puff pastry 50g demerara sugar

FOR THE FRANGIPANE

80g butter, softened 80g caster sugar 2 eggs 25g plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 80g ground almonds 75g frozen pitted cherries, defrosted and chopped

FOR THE EGG WASH

2 eggs 25ml full-fat milk

TO SERVE

cherry compote (optional) I’ve got to be honest with you, this recipe is my chef Adam’s idea. I thought he was drinking when I heard the words ‘bear claws’ but it turns out he wasn’t. I love the idea behind this recipe – frangipane at its heart and a great cherry compote to go with it, and my god it tastes nice! Preheat the oven to 1800C (1600C fan)/3500F/gas 4. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of 3mm and cut out 16 rectangles measuring 8 x 16cm. To make the frangipane, mix together the butter and sugar in a stand mixer until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time until fully incorporated. Mix in the flour and ground almonds. Fold through the chopped cherries. Whisk together the eggs and milk for the egg wash. Pipe a generous 2 tablespoons of the cherry frangipane into the centre of each rectangle. Egg-wash below the frangipane. Fold over the top off each pastry piece and seal the pastries. Slash 3 bear claw marks exposing the frangipane and cut 4 lines to make the bear fingers. Transfer them to a baking tray (or trays) lined with greaseproof paper. Brush the remaining egg wash over the pastries and sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Bake for 25 minutes until golden and crisp. Cool on a wire rack and, when ready to eat, serve with cherry compote if you like.

Shortbread with Strawberries & Cream

MAKES 20

There are so few ingredients in this recipe; it relies simply on good-quality butter, flour and sugar. If your mixture is a little bit too dry, add a little cold water, but not too much as the shortbread gets its name from the ratio of butter to flour to make it short – you are not making pastry! Preheat the oven to 1700C (1500C fan)/3250F/gas 3. In a large bowl, mix the butter, sugar and flour, rubbing them together with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir through the water to bring together into a dough. On a lightly floured surface, roughly roll out the dough and then press into a 20 x 15cm baking tin. Sprinkle with caster sugar, prick with a fork and chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. Bake for 10–15 minutes, then leave to cool in the tin on a wire rack. Cut into 20 rectangles and serve with strawberries and cream. 250g cold butter, cubed 110g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling 360g chilled plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tablespoon water

TO SERVE

fresh strawberries and clotted cream

Butter by James Martin (Quadrille, £22) Photography: John Carey

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